New York Cork Report

Martha Clara Vineyards' Harvest Blog and Videos

By Lenn Thompson

For the most part, New York wineries have been slow to full adopt blogging and social media as a way to reach their customers and the press. More are dipping their toes in the pool every day, but I don't think anyone has embraced it in the way Martha Clara Vineyards has.

Sure, the JuanMaker series is a bit silly, but it does reflect their belief that wine needn't be serious all the time. It should be fun too.

What has caught my attention of late is the work they are putting into a new harvest-focused blog with almost-daily videos. Check it out, and if you're on Twitter, make sure you're following their winery account, as well as winemaker and assistant winemaker.

At Hosmer on Cayuga Lake, Challenging Conventional Wisdom on Balanced Vines, Quality Wines

By Evan Dawson

Hosmer Winery winemaker Aaron Roisen cannot help himself. If you spend more than five minutes with him, he's going to blurt out something so unique, so memorable, that you're going to wonder if it's all an act.

No one is this quick-witted, right? No one is this quirky, this astute, this honest. Right?

It's not an act with Roisen, whose comments might occasionally seem condescending when written on a notepad, but his charm comes from his humble authenticity. He speaks his mind, but he doesn't seek to offend. 

Ask him about Lemberger, and he quickly maligns the big, dark, oaky versions he finds occasionally. "It might have Donald Trump's hair, but it doesn't want to be a real estate mogul," Roisen says in reference to Lemberger's dark color on the vine.

When it comes to what kind of wine Lemberger should be, Roisen says, "It should be like all the good parts of pinot noir without the gag reflex when it gets overdone. Most people are over-oaking Lemberger. It's a light red wine that people don't really know how to follow through on."

He's also not a fan of the trend that sees Lemberger blended with cabernet franc (his beloved "Frankie"). "That blend is not true to the varieties!" Roisen says. "It's got to do its own thing, which is fruit driven, almost like an easy-drinking Sangiovese."

And regarding the use of oak in any red wine, Roisen offers this: "It's like the chorus in Dante's Inferno. Necessary, but probably the boring part."

He is unafraid to challenge conventional wisdom in Finger Lakes winemaking, but he's also one of the nicest guys you'll meet.  

Balanced Vines: Smaller Crops Don't Mean Better Crops at Hosmer

Standing in a row of Hosmer riesling, which is developing beautifully, Roisen asks me if I want to "go check out the Frankie." It leads to a discussion about crop loads. On this subject, Hosmer parts ways with what has become conventional wisdom among some producers -- and certainly among most wine writers.

At Hosmer, reducing crop size is often seen as a bad idea, not a good one.

"Our pinot noir is usually four or five tons to the acre," Roisen explains. "The Frankie is five tons, sometimes more. You're making a mistake if you fixate on getting a tiny amount of fruit on each acre of land."

"We care about balance, because balance is what leads to quality," says Tunker Hosmer, the owner and longtime grower. Tunker is gregarious and jocular and, like his winemaker, unafraid to challenge conventional wisdom. "Some vines can support a lot of fruit, and some can support less. You can't over-generalize."

The easiest way to determine whether the Hosmer approach is working is to taste the wines, and that means young wines and wines with some bottle age. The evidence is strong in Hosmer's favor.

The cabernet franc, never the darkest and heaviest in the region, is light-to-medium bodied in most vintages, and even the 10-year-old versions show some energy.

Roisen thinks some winemakers fixate on crop load with pinot noir in particular. "When it gets super-low in yield, it gets weedy and green," he says, making a face. "That is not what we're looking for."

It all sets up an interesting discussion best left, in depth anyway, for another day. But adherents to this idea must recognize that many of the best wines in the world come from vines with low -- and sometimes extremely low -- croploads. And some of the best wines in the Finger Lakes come from vines cropped to bring in lower yields than those seen at Hosmer. So what's going on with those world-class wines from low yields? Are the growers simply not telling the truth about croploads? Is the Hosmer stance wrong? What gives?

We'll get back to those questions in the near future.

A vertical of riesling yields a surprise

Roisen put together a mini-vertical of Hosmer rieslings, with both dry and semi-dry versions from '07, '08, and '09. And here was the surprise:

The 2009 rieslings were the standout in each category.

Far from the severe, prickly rieslings that were the inevitable product of a leaner vintage, Hosmer's '09 Rieslings are broad and filled with character. The semi-dry is rich and seamless, long, balanced and beautiful. In contrast, the Homer '08 Riesling was a bit of a letdown, a touch sharp and choppy. The '07 Rieslings were different animals entirely, glazed by petrol and nuts and the first signs of oxidation (as anyone would expect from a hot, drought vintage). 

But Tunker Hosmer is not buying the excuse that 2009 made for difficult winemaking.

"It was a fooler vintage," he says, laughing. "People love to forget about September. If we would have had a bad September, then people could complain. But September was almost perfect, and we think it shows in the wines."

If the Hosmer '09 Semi-Dry Riesling is impressive, the '09 Dry is even more so. Crisp and racy but layered, there is a reason it turned out so well. Roisen stopped fermentation when this wine had nine grams of residual sugar; he typically lets it go further, but he didn't think it would maintain its balance without more sugar in a high-acid year.

The Hosmer Rieslings offer one of the great values of the region, regularly selling for several dollars less per bottle than their peers. 

It has been a fascinating tasting, but Roisen wants to make sure to add one more point. "I'm still young and still new here," he says. "I have a lot -- a whole lot -- to learn."

For someone who tends to speak with such conviction, it's a shade of modesty. But it's not all that surprising once you spend time with Aaron Roisen. Somehow, that certitude and self-doubt are seamlessly balanced, not unlike many of his wines.

 

What We Drank (September 8, 2010)

This is what our editors and contributors were drinking last week....

David Flaherty: Sorachi Ace, Brooklyn Brewery

Brooklyn Brewery Brewmaster, Garrett Oliver, is a mad man. He could easily rest on his laurels with all the great beers he's produced, but he relentlessly pushes the envelope again and again. Every two months or so, he and his motley crew of brewers in Williamsburg release their Brewmaster's Reserve Series (which I'm happy to say, will always have a home on my draft list at Terroir Tribeca).

 

Although not his latest release, I finally got around to tasting the Sorachi Ace.  It blew my doors off.  I'm a huge fan of Saison-style beers (Belgian Farmhouse Ales which are usually brewed with Belgian yeasts, unfiltered and seasoned with coriander and lemon zest). 

 

In this case, Garrett and team are using the rare 'Sorachi Ace' hop which was developed in 1988 by a large Japanese brewery but is rarely found in the U.S.  Brooklyn Brewery sources it from a hop farm in Oregon and it is the only hop used in this beer, so as to focus on its unique character. 

It's a delicous beast and is the perfect tipple for the end of the Summer. Golden in color, it smacks you willingly in the mouth with a bright, spicy lemon character. It's bold and yet incredibly drinkable, finishing dry and leaving you refreshed, quenched and ready for another smack.

It must have sub-consciously inspired my wife and I's latest homebrew because we wanted a saison that REALLY smacks you in the mouth with flavor. For a good time, check out our awesome (and controversial) Green Chili Saison, click here. 

Evan Dawson: Raphael 2007 Sauvignon Blanc

My father-in-law announced he would be making clams and he asked Morgan and me to bring a suitable wine match.

We brought two: a 2007 Chablis and this Long Island white.

The Chablis smelled and tasted like briny ocean air and green apple, while the Raphael was all about snappy apple, lemongrass and grapefruit.

Curiously, in isolation the Rapahel gave off a whiff of that classic Long Island white wine salinity, but it was much more subdued when sampling it next to the terroir missile that was the Chablis.

Both were big hits.

Summer is waning, sadly, and I have grown to love the combination of shellfish and Long Island whites.

By the way, that's our bacon-wrapped cherry tomato in the pic; it's not some bizarre clam.

Lenn Thompson: Domaine Bois de Boursan 2003 Chate Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée des Félix 

For me, this is a wine with a story -- and it has nothing to do with its origin.

And I have Evan Dawson and Tom Mansell to thank for it.

Last winter, Tom and I engaged in a weight-loss challenge. The first one to lose 10% of his starting weight would receive a case of wine from the other not to exceed $250, selected by Evan. Tom worked hard to win...but he didn't know what he was up against. I won handily and it was time for the wines.

Evan and I talked a bit and he convinced me that he could put together a KILLER half-case for that money and after a look at my cellar revealed very little space, I relented.

This is the first wine from that winning half-case that I've opened and wow was it good.

I don't know a ton about CdP, but I know that I love the savory qualities they often have. This one was gamey with rosemary, lavender and other herbs on the nose with a smokey bacon-meets-fresh asphalt quality to it -- with black raspberry and black cherry beneath.

Big and dense, the flavors matched the nose beautifully, with chewy tannins creating a combination of flavors and structure that made me crave roast leg of lamb.

At $80, it's not something I can drink often, but CdP hits me right where I like it. Thanks, Evan and thanks Tom.

Tom Mansell: Ithaca Brewing Company Outdoor Ale

It takes a lot of beer to make good wine, or so the saying goes. Ithaca Beer Co. is the gracious host of the annual Ithaca Brew Fest, and this year they came out swinging. 

In addition to their standard and seasonal fare, they were pouring their White Gold and this lovely American Pale Ale.

Outdoor Ale is wet-hopped with freshly-harvested local Willamette hops, which provide a really cool grassy nose.

 Behind the grass there are all kinds of tropical fruit notes (it's like the sauvignon blanc of beer!) with some bubble gum/cotton candy thrown in. 

It finishes with a good amount of bitterness and is a refreshing harvest offering, perfect for after a hot day of picking and pressing.

2010 Harvest Update: Concord Harvest at Heron Hill Winery

The folks at Keuka Lake's Heron Hill Winery have picked 2.5 acres of seedless Concord grapes -- not for wine, but for juice that will be sold in the tasting room. Perfect for the kids.

Look for more updates from Heron Hill in coming weeks as they begin harvesting their vinifera fruit.

Paumanok Vineyards 2009 Sauvignon Blanc

By Lenn Thompson

The only thing holding sauvignon blanc back from taking over the Long Island white wine scene is acreage. There just isn't enough planted, and with the economy where it is, few are investing in new plantings.

Eventually it will happen. It has to. The grape shows that much promise here. 

But for now, those with the vines in the ground are working to establish a regional style -- one that is unique and defies comparisons to other classic styles.

Paumanok Vineyards 2009 Sauvignon Blanc ($24) is made entirely with fruit from the Massoud's new planting of sauvignon blanc, one heavy on a muscat clone. Their older planting went entirely to a late harvest wine in 2009.

Winemaker Kareem Massoud prefers sauvignon without the grassy-herbal character so many of us associate with the grape. Previous vintages have shown little of that quality, but this vintage shows a bit, both on the nose and on the palate.

The nose is extremely tropical -- typical of the sauvignon blanc musque clone -- with aromas of papaya, passion fruit, peach and mandarin orange with just a subtle grassy note beneath that fruit cocktail.

Ripe and similarly tropical, the mouth-filling, almost opulently fruit-driven palate shows crisp acidity that creates tension on the mid-palate and cuts through all that fruit. The long, balanced finish brings a distinct mango note with a bit of grapefruit zest. 

I've tasted some delicious sauvignon blanc this summer. This is my favorite, regardless of region.

Producer: Paumanok Vineyards
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
Harvest Dates: October 2, 14, 2009
Brix at Harvest: 21.4, 21.7
pH: 3.39
TA: 7.8 g/l
RS: 0.5%
ABV: 12.5%
Case Production: 636
Price: $24*
Rating: 91

(*Ratings Guide)

The Science of Biodynamics, Part 4: Hidden Alchemy in Compost

Yarrow flowers matured in a stag's bladder -- Preparation 502

By Tom Mansell

All images courtesy of The Millton Vineyard, Poverty Bay, NZ.

"For there is a hidden alchemy in the organic process." - Rudolf Steiner, Agriculture

At the heart of biodynamic farming are the famous preparations. In this post and the next post, we'll look at the contents of the preparations and their proposed effects and mechanisms or lack thereof.

This week's post will focus on the preparations added to biodynamic compost.

Compost Preparations

Preparation	Main Component	Fermented in...	Proposed function (Steiner)	Proposed function (Josephine Porter Institute website)
502	Yarrow blossoms	Bladder of a stag	"Its homeopathic sulfur content, combined in a truly model way with potash, not only works magnificently in the plant itself, but enables the yarrow to ray out its influences to a greater distance and through large masses."	Permits plants to attract trace elements in extremely dilute quantities for their best nutrition.
503	Chamomile blossoms	Cow intestines	"...has sulphur in the precise proportions which are necessary to assimilate the potash...assimilates calcium in addition.  Therewith, it assimilates that which can chiefly help to exclude from the plant those harmful effects of fructation, thus keeping the plant in healthy condition."	Stabilizes nitrogen (N) within the compost & increases soil life so as to stimulate plant growth.
504	Stinging nettle shoot	N/A	"A jack of all-trades... It carries within it the element which incorporates the Spiritual and assimilates it everywhere, namely, sulphur....Moreover, the stinging nettle carries potassium and calcium in its currents and radiations, and in addition it has a kind of iron radiation."	Stimulates soil health, providing plants with the individual nutrition components needed. "Enlivens" the earth (soil).
505	Oak bark	Skull of a domestic animal	"The calcium structure of the oak rind is absolutely ideal....[Calcium] restores order when the ether-body is working too strongly, that is, when the astral cannot gain access to the organic entity."	Provides healing forces (or qualities) to combat harmful plant diseases.
506	Dandelion flowers	Mesentery (gut lining) of a cow	"[i]t mediates the silicic acid finely, homeopathically distributed in the Cosmos, and that which is needed as silicic acid throughout the given district of the Earth.  Truly this dandelion is a kind of messenger from heaven."	Stimulates relation between Silica (Si) and Potassium (K) so that Silica can attract cosmic forces to the soil.
507	Valerian extract	N/A	"...stimulate [the compost] to behave in the right way in relation to what we call the 'phosphoric' substance."	Stimulates compost so that phosphorus components will be properly used by the soil.

The preparations (that's 503 at right) are usually placed directly into the compost pile in small amounts, typically 5-10 grams or less for the solid mass, though they can sometimes be sprayed in the field in addition.

In his fifth lecture on agriculture, Steiner argues that the nitrogen content of biodynamic compost is improved by transmutation of elements such as potassium and calcium into nitrogen by organic processes.

"I know quite well, those who have studied academic agriculture from the modern point of view will say: "You have still not told us how to improve the nitrogen-content of the manure."  On the contrary, I have been speaking of it all the time, namely, in speaking of yarrow, camomile [sic] and stinging nettle. For there is a hidden alchemy in the organic process. This hidden alchemy really transmutes the potash, for example, into nitrogen, provided only that the potash is working properly in the organic process. Nay more, it even transforms into nitrogen the limestone, the chalky nature, if it is working rightly."

This represents a misunderstanding of the nature of chemical elements, even by 1924 standards. The supposed phenomenon of biological transmutation, or the conversion of an element to a different element via a biological or organic process, quite simply violates the laws of physics.

It's important to note, though, that just because Steiner was a bit off in his explanation of the phenomena doesn't mean that these compost preparations have no effect at all. Many researchers have explored the effects of biodynamic agriculture, but until recently, these studies either compared conventional and biodynamic agriculture or lacked the statistical rigor required to make definitive conclusions. However, in the past decade or so, some intrepid researchers have taken a scientific approach to experimentation with the biodynamic preparations in an effort to gauge their efficacy and usefulness for modern farmers.

A review of peer-reviewed research into the effects of biodynamic preparations

One of the premier researchers in the compost field is Dr. Lynne Carpenter-Boggs, Biologically Intensive and Organic Agriculture (BIOAg) Specialist at the Washington State University Center for Sustaining Agriculture and Natural Resources (CSANR) and an affiliate Assistant Professor in the Department of Crop and Soil Sciences.  She has been an author on several peer-reviewed papers comparing the effects of agriculture using biodynamic preparations to organic agriculture.

Washington Com-post

A 2000 study published in Biological Agriculture and Horticulture showed some differences in compost quality between biodynamic and organic compost. The biodynamic compost had a consistently higher temperature and 65% more nitrate (likely due to aerobic nitrifying bacteria, not transmutation...) than the organic compost. In addition, phospholipid fatty acid analysis gave different results for biodynamic compost, suggesting that the microbial makeup differed slightly.

Also in 2000, the same authors published a study in the Soil Science Society of America Journal which sought to evaluate the differences in soil treated with organic or biodynamic compost. The authors also compared the results of composted soils to soils supplemented with mineral fertilizers. Over the many parameters measured, compost was shown to beneficial to soil quality, but no significant differences were found in any parameters between organic and biodynamic compost. 

From the conclusions section:

"The soil biological parameters tested indicated many differences between soils that had received compost additions and those that had not. Both biodynamic and nonbiodynamic composts increased soil microbial biomass, respiration, dehydrogenase activity [an indicator of microbial activity], MinC [an indicator of available carbon], earthworm population and biomass, and qCO2 [microbe respiration]. No differences were found between soils fertilized with biodynamic vs. nonbiodynamic compost."

Does it translate to plants?

Wheat

In 2010, Dr. Jennifer Reeve, Assistant Professor of Organic and Sustainable Agriculture at Utah State University and a former student of Dr. Carpenter-Boggs, was the lead author on a study of biodynamic compost and its effect on wheat seedlings. 

In this case, the compost contained grape pomace, which would be a readily available source of compost from wineries. The authors tracked compost parameters like the 2000 studies and found evidence of increased dehydrogenase activity, which indicated increased microbial activity in the biodynamic compost.

In addition, wheat seedlings were fertilized with the different composts. According to the paper, "In 2002, wheat growth with BD compost extract or BD compost extract plus fertilizer was always greater or the same as wheat growth with the control compost under the same conditions....Wheat growth in 2005 was similar between BD and untreated compost showing that possible differences as a result of BD treatment are not consistent year to year. Whether or not any small differences as a result of BD compost preparations would incur a practical benefit to the grower needs to be further investigated." Seedlings treated with either compost extract had higher shoot height and biomass and root biomass, confirming the beneficial effect of compost in general.

Okay, fine for wheat, but this isn't the New York Wheat Report.  What about grape vines?

One of the first peer-reviewed studies of biodynamic compost on grapes appeared in the prestigious American Journal of Enology and Viticulture in 2005. Dr. Reeve and Dr. Carpenter-Boggs were co-authors on this study. A three-year study of application of BD compost vs. organic compost (the only difference being the addition of preparations 502-507).

Biodynamically treated vines in this study also received field sprays (preparations 500 and 501). I'll go more into the effects of field sprays in next week's post.

According to the paper: "No consistent significant differences were found between the biodynamically treated and untreated plots for any of the physical, chemical, or biological parameters tested....Also, no differences were found in the more sensitive measures of microbial efficiency known as biological quotients: dehydrogenase activity per unit CO2 respiration, dehydrogenase activity per unit readily mineralizable carbon, and respiration per unit microbial biomass."

Analysis of the grape chemistry showed very little difference among the three harvests. One exception was 2003, slightly increased (though statistically significant) Brix levels (25.88 vs. 25.55) and approximately 2.5% and 5% increases in total phenolic compounds and anthocyanins, respectively. From the paper: "Based on the fruit composition data, there is little evidence the biodynamic preparations contribute to grape quality. The differences observed were small and of doubtful practical significance."

OK, so maybe there isn't any practical significance in grape chemistry. The wine is what's important!

The same wine grapes from the 2005 AJEV study were vinified and compared in a trained sensory panel. The first test was to see if the panel could tell any differences between wines made from organic and biodynamic grapes.

From the paper: "Triangle test results indicated no significant differences at p<0.05 [that is, 95% probability that the result is not by chance] between the 2001, 2002, 2003 and 2004 biodynamically and organically grown Merlot wines." 

Those that were able to correctly identify differences found slightly higher perception of in "musty/earthy" aromas in some of the organic wines. The only wine that was showed a notable preference was the 2003 vintage, where subjects preferred the organic wine over the biodynamic (p<0.1). 

This is the same vintage where biodynamic wines had slightly increased Brix, and phenolics, which may explain the result that in that the 2003 biodynamic wine was notably (again, p<0.1) higher in bitterness.

This is hardly a resounding endorsement for the quality of biodynamic wine over wine produced organically.

If there really is an effect, then how might it work?

The possibility of an altered microbial population in BD compost found in the 2000 and 2010 studies led the authors to consider microbial inoculation (i.e., the addition of beneficial microorganisms from the preparations) as a possible reason for the change in the compost. However, given the small inoculum (approximately 1 mg of preparations per kg of compost), this mechanism was considered to be unlikely but could not be ruled out. 

I asked Dr. Carpenter-Boggs if further studies have been done to examine the microbial makeup of the compost. Her response was that the small, subtle changes in biodynamic compost aren't really enough to justify further exploration of the microbial makeup, which would likely be painstaking and expensive.

According to Dr. Reeve, "any mechanistic hypotheses are pure speculation at this point." 

However, she seems to favor an explanation involving molecules that are capable of influencing plant and/or bacterial growth in small quantities. These hormones, molecules such as cytokinins, certainly exist in nature, but proving this hypothesis would be equipment and labor intensive, requiring extensive chemical analysis. 

Dr. Reeve admits "it's quite possible that these results are flukes,"  and she argues that there aren't enough practictioners of biodynamics out there to gain a statistically significant grasp on the benefits of biodynamics over organic farming.

Conclusions

Compost as fertilizer performs better in many soil health metrics (micronutrients, microbial populations, etc.) than conventional mineral/NPK fertilizer. However, the differences between biodynamic compost and compost managed without biodynamic preparations are few and relatively subtle. 

Compost with biodynamic preparations may have slightly altered microbial populations, but when BD compost is applied to crops, it gives little advantage over organic compost. Grapes produced using biodynamic viticulture treatments showed very little practical difference, and wine made from those grapes showed no statistically significant differences to a large panel of subjects.

Rigorous research into the effects of the biodynamic compost treatments may have produced small blips on the radar, but these results have either been inconsequential overall or irreproducible. 

Further research may elucidate possible mechanisms, if any. Meanwhile, one consistent result is the beneficial effect of compost on crops. So while composting may be beneficial, there's little evidence to support the use of biodynamic compost preparations.

---

Further Reading

R Steiner, Agriculture, 1974 translation.

L Carpenter-Boggs et al., "Organic and biodynamic management: effects on soil biology." Soil Sci Am J., 2000

L Carpenter-Boggs et al., "Effects of biodynamic preparations on compost development." Biological Agriculture and Horticulture, 2000

JR Reeve et al., "Influence of biodynamic preparations on compost development and resultant compost extracts on wheat seedling growth", Bioresource Technology, 2010

JR Reeve et al., "Soil and Winegrape Quality in Biodynamically and Organically Managed Vineyards", AJEV, 2005

CF Ross et al., "Difference Testing of Merlot Produced from Biodynamically and Organically Grown Wine Grapes." Journal of Wine Research, 2009.

TasteNY: Shinn Estate is Next Week

There is still time to join us next Wednesday, September 15 for TasteNY featuring the wines of Shinn Estate Vineyards.

For just $65 (that's 20% off), the TasteNY pack gets you three Shinn Estate Vineyards wines:

• Shinn Estate Vineyards 2009 "First Fruit" Sauvignon Blanc
• Shinn Estate Vineyards NV Red
• Shinn Estate Vineyards 2007 Nine Barrels Reserve Merlot

We'll be tasting these wines on Wednesday, September 15 at 8 p.m. ET and for a limited time, the folks at Shinn are offering participants 20% off the wines. That's $64.80 for all three!

Buy your TasteNY pack today, get a group of friends together -- preferably over a meal -- and join us. 

There is still time to join us next Wednesday, September 15 for TasteNY featuring the wines of Shinn Estate Vineyards.

For just $65 (that's 20% off), the TasteNY pack gets you three Shinn Estate Vineyards wines:

• Shinn Estate Vineyards 2009 "First Fruit" Sauvignon Blanc
• Shinn Estate Vineyards NV Red
• Shinn Estate Vineyards 2007 Nine Barrels Reserve Merlot

We'll be tasting these wines on Wednesday, September 15 at 8 p.m. ET and for a limited time, the folks at Shinn are offering participants 20% off the wines. That's $64.80 for all three!

Buy your TasteNY pack today, get a group of friends together -- preferably over a meal -- and join us. 

2010 Harvest Update: Leon Millot Harvest at Glorie Farm

By Lenn Thompson

Just received quick word that Glorie Farm Winery has harvested one ton of Leon Millot... that came in last week at 24 brix.

That is some serious sugar for the beginning of September.

Living With the Ghost of Warm Lake Estate Vineyard & Winery

Driving past the “Wine Tasting Today” sign on the side of Lower Mountain Road in Cambria, I’m reminded of my first months in the Niagara Region – a feeling that’s compounded when my eyes invariably train toward the “Help Wanted” sign right next to it.

It’s the same sign that I read four years ago that led me to my first job in the wine industry. As I follow the arrows pointing up the hill toward Warm Lake Estate’s tasting room, I don’t remember the road being as potholed and bumpy as it somehow feels today. When the winery itself looms into view, what I’d been hearing is seemingly confirmed: Warm Lake Estate has stopped production.

It’s not so much the desolate parking lot that leads me to the conclusion that operations have ceased so much as the 35 acres of neglected vineyards. I’m reminded of that dystopian Discovery Channel show “Life After People” as I pull up and snap a few photos of overgrown weeds and decaying clusters left on the vine from the previous growing season. The winery, once open seven days a week, is locked up in the middle of a sunny summer day.

A quick phone call to its listed number indicates the line has been disconnected.

When my wife and I moved to the Niagara Region from New York City in 2007, these vineyards looked nothing like they do today. The winery’s outlook was fairly positive. Warm Lake was still selling its 2005 vintage for $40 a bottle while still ultimately making a case for pinot noir on the Niagara Escarpment; the 88-point score from Wine Spectator definitely didn’t hurt its fledgling reputation.

Back then there weren’t a dozen wineries educating their customers on the microclimate created by the escarpment and Lake Ontario, and the benefits of limestone soils or talking about clay versus sand or gravel.

Today, the outlook for Warm Lake doesn't appear as bright. Even after successfully raising enough money to plant the largest continuous planting of pinot noir east of the Rockies, building a winery filled with vats and the best oak barrels you can buy, receiving the highest Wine Spectator score for a pinot noir from New York and after inextricably tying the name “Warm Lake” to the Niagara Escarpment region, it appears as if the rumors of an investor buyout, restructuring and ceasing of production are true.

I personally don’t place all that much importance on why or how it happened so soon -- especially because the Niagara Wine Trail itself is booming. I see it like the details of a bad divorce whereby at the end of the day the result is the same no matter who’s fault it was or what series of events led to it.

Put simply, I think the winery was before its time, and it tried to be too big, too fast and too soon.

How do you market a $40 bottle of wine from an unknown region tens of thousands of times? I’m not sure anyone could have pulled that off in Niagara back in 2007. So when I look at what Mike Von Heckler did with Warm Lake I view his accomplishments in the broader sense: he established an AVA, helped to form the wine trail as it is today, planted an amazing vineyard on prime Escarpment land and placed Niagara wines on the radar of yours truly.

Hell, I was sold on the region enough to move here and buy land.

Before I started contributing to the NYCR, most everyone I’d met in the Finger Lakes and Long Island knew Niagara only as Warm Lake Estate; the two were synonymous and virtually interchangeable. I’d commonly get questions like, “What’s the deal with Warm Lake?” “How’s Mike doing?” “You have that pinot noir winery there, right?”

Indeed, for better or for worse, Niagara’s fate and Warm Lake’s were intertwined.

In my opinion when Warm Lake started having consistency issues with a tough 2006 vintage -- including but not limited to early browning from early pH levels being too high -- retailers and customers that committed to orders and futures orders seemed to start jumping off the bandwagon. Any momentum from previous vintages was lost and the news of dissatisfied customers spread quickly.

Since then, anytime I’ve poured or talked about Niagara pinot noir, people’s expectations have been based on the worst vintages of Warm Lake wines. Snarky comments like “at least its red” were a favorite and I came to realize that marketing pinot noir, even under a different brand name here would be an uphill battle.

Since I still pour in a tasting room down the road I get questions weekly about the winery. These days, the most common revolves around why there’s a wine tasting sign out if they’re closed. But many are interested in what happened and why. I usually just mention that there were a lot of grapes to take care of and a lot of wine to make without a large trained staff.

What’s done is done, though and the region is looking forward, even as the future of Warm Lake remains uncertain. From conversations I’ve had with people close to the situation -– but who also want to remain anonymous –- the winery’s short-term goal is to get the vineyards back in shape and sell grapes as it works toward going back into production under a different name.

I see the distribution of their grapes to a variety of winemakers across the state the best possible scenario for improving the image of pinot noir here.

Driving back down the hill away from the winery you can almost see and feel the hopes and dreams that were lost when these vines stopped being cared for.

I recall my first experiences cleaning barrels and talking about the geology of the escarpment with visitors for the month I spent employed here. I remember thinking that the winery and the region itself is such a cool story that the only thing it needed was people to get the story out and the business side would work itself out.

Having a more realistic view of the industry today I know that it’s just not that simple and I realize that no one winery will define this diverse region. But with the possibility of Warm Lake’s grapes being spread out among wineries and in the hands of careful winemakers, it may ultimately help strengthen the case for Niagara pinot noir once again.

Ah, Rhubarb... in September?!?

Editor's note: The recipe that Matt links below is one of the most addictive creations I've ever encountered. Matt is an enthusiastic home beermaker, hop grower, and more. We welcome him on with this first post.

By Matt Arlauckas

So, I bet you only thought of rhubarb as a spring-time treat, eh? Thanks to a warm and humid summer here in Western New York, and a bit of care and tending, I’m still harvesting good stalks from our backyard beds.

I grew up with rhubarb, grown mostly in my grandfather’s urban garden in Rochester. Every time we would visit, he made sure we had enough for at least a few pies. I can’t remember how many plants he tended, but I do remember how there seemed to be a never-ending harvest.

A great resource for everything rhubarb and rhubarb-related is the Rhubarb Compendium (http://www.rhubarbinfo.com/). The website has an amazing amount of content, from growing and tending, to propagating and preparing. This has been the main source of information since our own beds went in.

Want to start growing your own? Rhubarb is a rhizome, so my best advice is to find a friend with a large plant, and ask for part of it. Sure you could buy rhubarb rhizomes at a garden center, or check with a vendor at your local farmers’ market. They might be willing to sell you a plant or two. Most friends would be happy to give you part of their plants, especially as rhubarb should be divided from time to time. We were lucky to have such a friend soon after we moved into our home, and have since divided the plants a few times.

Transplant it into a bed of loose, loamy soil, and leave it.  It’ll take care of itself. Rhubarb is pretty drought-resistant, and really doesn’t require extra watering. 

The toughest step to growing rhubarb is waiting. It’s going to take several months before you should harvest any stalks.  The plants need this time to develop their root system. Just let the leaves grow for now, but be sure to pluck off any leaves/stalks that start to yellow and flop over. Generally, it’s going to take a season and a good winter-over before it should be harvested. It’s worth the wait!  

Harvesting is easy. Some like to cut the stalks close to the ground, but I find that grasping the stalk low and giving a quick twist works best.  Trim off the ends, including the leaves (yup, those are poisonous - but safe for your compost pile), and that’s it.

Now, what fun is just growing the stuff...  

Here’s a really quick and easy recipe to enjoy all your hard work. It’s a variation on the classic rhubarb pie my mom still makes. 

Recipe: Rustic Rhubarb Tart (via my blog AnyIdeasForDinner.com)

Enjoy!

Ithaca Beer Company Super Friends IPA

By Julia Burke, Beer Editor

I couldn’t believe my luck at finding this relatively rare IPA at my local pub. A Brett-fermented IPA made with Citra hops at Ithaca Beer Company in June, this creation is the brainchild of a collaborative brew session with a guest list impressive enough to warrant an emergency nuclear attack escape plan: Ithaca’s own Jeff O’Neil and Eric Kugeman, Phil Leinhart of Brewery Ommegang, Scott Vaccaro of Captain Lawrence, Casey Hughes of Flying Fish, Phil Markowski of Southampton Publick House, and one West Coast representative, Steve Altimari of Valley Brewing in Stockton, CA.

Super Friends pours a lovely orange haze with a two-finger head and firm lacing that remains nicely stratified to the end of the pint.

The nose is the waxy orange/lemon bouquet of Citra hops (if you haven’t sampled a beer using this fairly new hop variety, check it out) with hints of florals and wild yeasty funk.

The first sip is like taking a punch in the face. Fierce, show-no-mercy hops, a sour Brett funk, wicked carbonation, and an acidic pucker of tart orange and grapefruit attack the palate like a barrage of gunfire -- but it hurts so good.

A drool-inducing monster of a beer, this sour, Bretty IPA is a formidable collaboration of New York brewing talent. It’s also a great first-time sour for hopheads, since it combines the two flavors expertly.

Pair it with some creamy, earthy cheese. (A warning note: I had this beer with hot wings. Don’t do it, unless you’re a fan of crying at the bar -- into your first pint.) 

Producer: Ithaca Beer Company 
Sample Size: 16 oz. pint 
Stemware: pint glass 
Price: $6 
Availability: Specialty
_Grade: A-

Hurricane Earl Update from Martha Clara Vineyards

The New York Cork Report Tasting Table -- September 3, 2010

These are a few wines that have crossed the NYCR tasting table recently but will not be reviewed as part of a standalone post. As always, these are transcribed almost directly from my notebook with little editing:

Adair Vineyards 2009 Rosalais ($12): Beautiful pale ruby color. Nose of cherry Twizzlers and strawberry candy. Medium body with gobs of sweet/candy cherry and a little cherry pit. Dry but not overly so. Decent acid. Short is finish with a little earthiness. 25% Chambourcin, 25% Dechaunac, 25% Frontenac, 25% Chancellor. Rating: 82

Glorie Farm NV Jumpin' Jazz ($12): Hybrid blend. Aromas of over-ripe or bruised melon and a flower shop. More over-ripe melon flavors joined by peach. Very perfumy on the palate as well. Okay balance because of okay acidity, but does finish a bit sugary. Rating: 78

Mattebella Vineyards 2009 Rose ($15): Earthy and gravelly on the nose with wild strawberry fruit character. Fresh and shows of it's cabernet franc-ness with earthy-herbal flavors to go with more strawberries. Lithe body with good acidity. Classy, elegant and satisfying. Rating: 85

Swedish Hill Winery 2009 Valvin Muscat ($12): Fruity Pebbles, sweet lime, potpurri and subtle spiciness on a huge nose. Is a bit sweet (2.5% RS) but good acid. More Fruity Pebbles and lime Jolly Rancher with a medium-length, lightly sweet finish. Wonder what it'd be like with less RS. Rating: 83

Ventosa Vineyards 2008 Tocai Friulano ($16): Light nose of peaches and flowers. Palate is medium bodied with fresh, clean acidity. Simple just-ripe peach flavors with a little RS (?). Short finish. Not a ton of varietal character. Rating: 80

Ithaca Brew Fest This Weekend

One of the best beer events in the northeastern U.S. takes the Finger Lakes by storm this weekend: Ithaca Brew Fest 2010.

A showcase of nearly fifty breweries from all over the country and beyond, this widely beloved and well-attended beer festival has increased rapidly in popularity since it began just four years ago.

Sponsored by Ithaca Beer Company, Cayuga Radio, and Wegman's, the event takes place this Saturday, September 4 from 3 to 7 p.m. in Stewart Park on Cayuga Lake.

In addition to fantastic beer from local favorites such as Middle Ages, Captain Lawrence and Brooklyn as well as out-of-towners Abita and Widmer and German legends Wiehenstephan and Spaten, the festival will feature live music, local food, and a chance to meet the people behind the beers. A list of attending breweries and their locations at the festival can be found here. 

Tickets to the festival are $35 and can be purchased at Wegman's, Ithaca Beer Company or online.

For a more intimate beer experience, a $75 VIP ticket gets you early admission to the festival at 2:00 p.m. for a chance to sample specialty beers and meet some of the brewers in a less chaotic atmosphere. Last year the fest sold out -- so if you're interested in this awesome showcase of regional beer, get your tickets before it's too late!

2010 Harvest Update: Baco Noir at Benmarl Winery

Benmarl Winery in Marlboro makes some of the best baco noir in the state. In fact, it's achieved what could be considered cult status up in the Hudson Valley.

Today, winemaker Matt Spaccarelli (pictured above) and crew picked 4 tons of baco noir today. It came in at 22.5 brix.

This is Matt's first year as the sole winemaker. I look forward to tasting his first vintage without departed winemaker Kristop Brown.

Hurricane Earl Update: "Could Go Either Way."

I just received this weather- and harvest-related update from David Page at Shinn Estate Vineyards:

"Still too close to call. Could go either way. The best news is that whatever is coming is expected to exit quickly. If our fruit is damaged the wind and sun forcast for Saturday through the middle of next week will help to dry things out. We'll be harvesting whites soon after the storm passes. Almost pulled the harvest trigger on our oldest block of Sauvignon Blanc today. It is already at 23 brix but PH is at 3.20 so it is very healthy. We'll take the risk in the hope that we'll have a little 'Haven' on the other side."

At a press conference this afternoon, Suffolk County Executive Steve Levy noted that the worse weather will likely be from Riverhead -- where the two Forks of the East End split -- east.

That's good news for me (I live west of Riverhead) but potentially not for wine country.

2010 Harvest Update: Riesling at Peconic Bay Winery

At 7 a.m. this morning, with Hurricane Earl promising to at least bring rain and wind to the North Fork, the riesling harvest started at Peconic Bay Winery.

According to winemaker Greg Gove, "We are picking the riesling just before the rain. At the present level of ripeness the riesling won’t last if we get several inches of rain and high winds. This is the earliest harvest I’ve experienced on the East End."

He also added that their merlot is already at 19 brix.

I'll update this post later today with some harvest data once all the fruit is in.

Enjoying the Wines of the New York Wine & Food Classic

By Evan Dawson, Managing Editor

Sheldrake Point Vineyard on Cayuga Lake has launched an event that winegrower Bob Madill hopes will become an annual tradition. Following the New York Wine & Food Classic, Sheldrake Point hosts the wineries that earned "Best Of" awards. The event has a limited public ticket release.

"This is our chance to taste wines from our colleagues that we might not otherwise taste over the course of the year," Madill explained to the crowd on a hot but gorgeous late-summer evening. "We're proud of what you're doing and we appreciate your wines and your hard work."

Jim Trezise, president of the Foundation, urged wineries to continue submitting their wines to this and other competitions. He praised the wines and said that competitions offer wineries a great opportunity. 

Simply Red Bistro provided the food, and chef Sam Izzo demonstrated that apple, fennel, and pulled pork should always go together. Always.

For me, the moment of the night came in meeting Ian Barry's father. Ian is the head winemaker at Swedish Hill on Cayuga Lake, and his wines have won the Governor's Cup in two of the past three years. His dad was humble and sweet, deservedly proud of his son. "Two times in three years is almost too much!" he told me. "It's just such an honor. I don't know how he does it. They have a great team."

 

2010 Harvest Update: Pinot Grigio at Martha Clara Vineyards

Martha Clara Vineyards winemaker Juan Micieli-Martinez reports that the vineyard crew picked 4 tons of pinot grigio today, saying has the "highest brix I have ever seen this early in pinot grigio."

It came in at 22.5 brix with pH of 3.5 and TA of 6.68 g/L.

"We averaged a little over 3 tons to the acre. Our pinot grigio is on 7x4 density plantings which means approximately 1,500 vines per acre. Therefore, the fruit load per vine is very low thus resulting in nice ripe fruit," told me in an email.

This recent 90-plus-degree heat wave has had a big impact. Last Thursday, when assistant winemaker Robin Epperson-McCarthy took samples, the fruit was just under 17 brix.  

 

2010 Harvest Update: Chardonnay for Sparkling at Paumanok Vineyards

Harvest is underway at Paumanok Vineyards on the North Fork where winemaker Kareem Massoud reports that they hand picked 2.67 tons of chardonnay for sparkling wine on August 28.

"Brix came in right where we want it for bubbly: 18.5. pH was also nice at 3.07. Acid good for bubbly at 10.2 g/l," he reports via email.

If you haven't tasted or seen a sparkler from Paumanok, there's a reason for that -- 2010 will be just their second sparkling wine.

"The 2009 will be released in time for the Holidays...of 2013," according to Massoud.

Channing Daughters Winery 2008 Sylvanus Vineyard Tocai Friulano

I can count on one hand the number of varietal Tocai Friulano's being produced in New York -- and two of them come from Long Island's Channing Daughters Winery.

Long a maker of as single Tocai, winemaker Christopher Tracy made two vineyard-desginated Tocai's in 2008 -- one for a new Mudd West Vineyard planting on the North Fork and one for the Sylvanus Vineyard in Bridgehampton -- two display the uniqueness of each spot.

Channing Daughters 2008 "Sylvanus Vineyard" Tocai Friulano ($24) was aged in both stainless steel barrels (55%) and older French and Hungarian ones (45%) for 10 months, and that subtle oak influence is noticeable on the nose as a subtle nutty spice note beneath aromas of citrus blossom, lemon-grapefruit and ocean breeze.

Medium-to-light bodied, the palate is lively, fresh and intensely saline with high-toned citrus and citrus zest flavors. As it warms to room temperature, almond, apple and spice flavors become a bit more pronounced.

Tocai is a classic pairing with cured meat, and this wine fits that bill well with its salty minerality.

Producer: Channing Daughters Winery
AVA: The Hamptons, Long Island
ABV: 12.5%
Case Production: 398
Price: $24
Rating: 87

(*Ratings Guide)

What We Drank (August 30, 2010)

This is what we've been drinking...

Evan Dawson: Chateau Montaud 2009 Cotes de Provence Rose

For $8, this wine is an absurd value. For its regular list price of $12, it's still very, very good.

I picked it up on sale at our local store when oppressive summer heat staged an encore. It turned out to be an excellent match for our food and the weather. I tend to think wine and weather is overly discussed, but I'm fully on board with rose in summer. 

And for all of the wonderful rose made in NY state these days, it's nice to have that reference point of what the best rose producing region in the world is doing. This one brought perhaps a bit less of the classic Provencal floral aromatics, and instead delivered glazed melon, but who can argue? It was crisp, refreshing, and deftly made. A true steal, a wonderful QPR.

Julia Burke: Selento Rosso, Masserie Pisari 2007

I attended a tasting of Michael Skurnik wines recently, the highlight of which was the Italian table. There was more character and value among the ten or twelve Italians I tasted than anywhere else in the room.

Particularly interesting was this Negroamaro, a unique and oh-so-Italian example in the $15 price range.

I've had some damn good Negroamaro lately, and this one continued the winning streak.

The nose showed yummy tar, definite notes of clove spice, and dark fruit which exploded into a palate of juicy middle-of-summer blackberries. I loved this wine for its genuine personality and for how much it made me want to spend two hours in the kitchen cooking a meal to pair.

Lenn Thompson: Ridge Vineyards 2008 Lytton Springs, Pagani Ranch and York Creek

Saturday night, I joined -- virtually, via Twitter -- some folks in tasting these three just-released zinfandel-centered wines. 

For a cool-climate wine enthusiast with a palate more used to ABV topping out at 13% or so, it took me a few sips of each -- these were 14.4%, 14.9% and 15% respectively -- to get used to the size here, but once I did, I was surprised by the balance and relative elegance these showed.

These aren't you're simple, juicy $12 zinfandels. Not by a long shot.

The Lytton Springs showed the most high-toned fruit of the lot with a floral quality and surprising acidity. Ultimately, it seemed a bit thin, but only because of the two monsters next to it.

The Pagani Ranch was definitely the most approachable of the three, with intense, lush fruit, better integrated structure and beautiful spice. This was my preferred wine on days 1 and 3 of tasting them.

The York Creek was just a monster. On the day of the tasting it was incredibly dense with dark, brooding fruit and a savory, umami side to it that intrigued. It wasn't giving much up though. By day two, it had uncrossed its arms, pushing forward more of the fruit while retaining that savoriness. My favorite on day 2, it fell apart on day 3 however.

Bryan Calandrelli: Szóke Mátyás Cabernet 2002

Once again I was in the right place at the right time to try something special.

This bottle of Hungarian wine was brought over by hand from a woman that stopped in the winery last weekend. Without one word of English on the label it wasn’t easy to get background info on it but what I could deduce after some wine encyclopedia snooping was that it was from the region of Mátraaja and the area of Gyongyostarján.

Revealing a beautiful brick garnet color in the glass this wine showed mature aromas of dried cherry, strawberry preserves, nutmeg, tobacco and cinnamon. On the palate it was perfectly balanced with good acid, great flesh and fine tannins.

I got an Italian vibe from this wine overall. I gathered it was a Cab Franc/Sauvignon blend after some deliberation.

My sommelier friend described it as Bordeaulean leaving us to agree that it had old world qualities that put it in good company. It was a fun wine to try in the middle of a workday and the story behind it made me want to go to Hungary.

David Flaherty: Hanssens Artisanaal, Oude Gueuze, Belgium

Lambics are some of the strangest beverages on the planet Earth. If there is terroir in beer, this is it.

 

This last week, I visited my brother in Seatlle. In preparation for our camping trip to Mt. Rainier, we attacked the local craft beer storm like the Vikings stormed a village.  (View the complete list of our booty here: http://bit.ly/arxPSj)

 

I was shocked to hear he wasn't familiar with lambics or other "sour" beers, for that matter.  It was time to take him to beer school. Lambics hail from the Pajottenland region of Belgium and, in contrast to other breweries, they celebrate their local bacteria like royalty. Spontaneously fermented in large open vats, the brewers use ambient yeasts present in the air which give a unique quality specific to their immediate surroundings.

 

With slightly funky notes of apple cider vinegar on the nose, what follows is nothing short of a death-defying roller coaster ride. A bracing acidity grabs a hold of your tongue and torques your mouth into a joyful bear hug. Dry as a bone and stridently complex, this Gueuze (a blend of 1-3 year old Lambics) is a standard-bearer.

 

The beautiful thing? Hanssens has been making them this way since 1896. I love a good antique.

Will Hurricane Earl Hit Long Island Wine Country?

By any measure, the 2010 growing season has been an outstanding one for Long Island grape growers.

Across the island, I'm hearing reports from vineyard folks saying that the grapes are anywhere from 10-20 days ahead of schedule.

They're further ahead than in 2007, often lauded as the region's best ever vintage.

In 2010, it's been about more than just hot days -- cloud cover and the UV rays they can filter have made an impact too.

Rich Olsen-Harbich, winemaker at Bedell Cellars, told me a few weeks ago "Not only have we been hot and sunny, but the sunny days are clear with a low percentage of cloud cover."

Increased UV exposure -- coupled with leaf removal from the fruit zone -- means lower levels of methoxypyrazines. Those are the compounds that can give red wines underripe, bell pepper aromas and flavors. 

Increased UV can also lead to more TDN in riesling too -- think petrol character -- but riesling isn't a big player on Long Island.

To illustrate how big an impact UV can have: 2003 -- anything but a classic vintage on Long Island -- was a very warm one too, according to Olsen-Harbich but there were fewer than 30 "clear days" all season. The vintage suffered and several underripe reds made their way to store shelves.

Despite the great weather we've been enjoying, local growers and winemakers are watching the weather closely this week -- not to keep an eye on cloud cover or even temperatures (which are expected to remain in the 90s). Instead, they'll be keeping an eye on Hurricane Earl, which has a predicted path up the eastern seaboard and over the East End of Long Island.

Computer models aren't always reliable, but Hurricane Earl hitting wine country could have dire and serious consequences.

"The  effects a H -- I can't get myself to say the word -- can have on  a vineyard depends on the severity of the 'hit,' the amount of rain that comes with it, and the speed it is traveling," says Rich Pisacano, vineyard manager at Wolffer Estate and co-owner of Roanoke Vineyards, adding "A direct hit can lay down an entire vineyard by snapping poles at the ground, send bird netting into the next town and of course destroy the crop."

Such devastating damage would require a lot of time and money to remedy, rendering "a complete crop loss the least of the problem" according to Pisacano.

Unfortunately, hurricanes aren't anything new for local grape growers. Powerful named storms have damaged vineyards past, most recently in 1985 and 1991.

"In 1985, when the eye of Hurricane Gloria was over Nassau County," Charles Massoud, co-owner of Paumanok Vineyards remembers, "the northeast quadrant of the storm was largely a wind event. It broke lots of trees but it brought lots of spray from the ocean. The salt from the spray dessicated the leaves and after three days the vineyard was essentially dead."

Luckily, the Massouds had already picked and sold their chardonnay before the storm hit.

Hurricane Bob, which passed just east of Montauk in 1991, was largely a rain event with strong wind. Massoud told me in an email "That bruised the fruit as though the clusters were sanded. That was at the end of August. Those of us who were quick at treating for botrytis salvaged a decent vintage in spite of the trellis damage from wind. The bruising developed scabs that increased the phenolics and required careful treatment at winemaking time."

Luckily, there was plenty of rain to wash away any salt from ocean spray that year.

These types of events are why you can't christen a vintage "the best ever" until the grapes are into the winery.

There is little doubt that local farmers have the Weather Channel on their televisions today and will all week. That's all they can do though -- watch, wait and hope.

(Photo credit: Weather.com)