When Juice Goes Un-Fermented

(This column originally appeared in the 2/4 edition of Dan's Papers)

When Juice Goes Un-Fermented

Do you know what verjus is? Probably not, but don’t be embarrassed, not many people do.

Verjus, literally translated as “green juice” and pronounced “vair-ZHOO,” is the fresh, unfermented juice of half-ripe fruit, most often grapes.

Quite common in Old World wine regions, particularly France, this versatile juice has as many culinary uses as there are grapes in a vineyard. Want a bright, fresh wine alternative without the alcohol? Drink verjus. It’s crisp, fruity and refreshing on its own or mixed with sparkling water and fruit slices to create virgin sangria.

Would you rather drink wine? No problem… just use verjus like you would vinegar. It can be used as a poaching liquid for chicken or fish, added to marinades for some acidic zing or make a great ceviche with local bay scallops. You can even make a verjus sorbet.

My favorite, everyday use for verjus is in vinaigrette. Because it doesn’t have all the mouth-puckering acidity of vinegar, you don’t need to use as much oil, leading to lighter, healthier dressing for fresh field greens.

Verjus Vinaigrette (adapted from a Wolffer Estate recipe)

4 T Verjus

1 medium shallot, peeled and diced

2 cloves garlic, peeled and diced

2 T Dijon mustard

1/2 cup canola or other vegetable oil

1/4 cup olive oil

1/4 cup finely snipped chives

1/4 cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

Salt and pepper to taste

Pinch of red pepper flakes (optional)

Combine the verjus, shallot, garlic and mustard in a bowl. Add the canola and olive oils in a slow, steady stream, whisking until smooth. Stir in fresh herbs, season with salt and pepper to taste, and toss with greens.

On Long Island, we’re lucky to have two wineries that produce verjus every year, Jamesport Vineyards and Wolffer Estate.

Jamesport Vineyards’ verjus ($10) is made entirely from half-ripe Chardonnay grapes. Pale yellow with a definite greenish tint, it’s filled with lime flavors and hints of honeydew melon. Subtle acidity and a gentle sweetness make it perfect for sipping or as a mixer.

Delivering much brighter acidity and lively tartness, the Wolffer Estate bottling ($10) offers lemongrass and light herbal notes that frame refined green apple flavors. Made from Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, this is my hands-down choice if I’m using verjus in my cooking.

Try verjus, especially if you’re visiting the vineyards with kids and want them to feel a part of the day!

To order verjus or for more recipes, contact Wolffer Estate at 537-5106 or Jamesport Vineyards at 722-5256.

Lenn Thompson is a contributing writer for Dan’s North Fork. Email him at lenn@lenndevours.com

Comments

[Viv]

Fascinating Lenn! I think I need a bottle of the Wölfer. :-)

[Kevin Riley]

One thing that is nice about Verjus, is the fact that when you go to a winery with a small child (Mine 5 years old) is that they can have a smaple of it. We went to Wolfer estates, and they gave my daughter a sample, and she felt like the biggest big shot that she was able to taste wines like the grown ups. Whenever we stop by there, we pick up a bottle of Verjus so she has something to drink on occasions like Christmas and Thanksgiving.

Perhaps a review of some of the vineyards that have child friendly reports. As is, a lot of people do indeeed bring their children to the vineyards.

[Lenn]

Kevin...you are absolutely right. I've talked to quite a few people who LOVE the Verjus for that very reason.

Personally...I bet your little one would like the version at Jamesport even more. It's jucier and a little sweeter. But, I bet you'd enjoy the Wolffer wines much more. :)

Funny you would mention a piece on family-friendly wineries out east...as I'm in the early stages of working on one right now. It will probably be published in the early spring, as it warms a bit.

[Kevin]

Lenn, Overall, your blog here is a great place especially for us who make frequent weekenders to the island. I would love to meet up with ya and learn how to visit these vineyards like a pro.

Perhaps you could even do a write up for publication to people in my area (SE MAss and Rhode Island Connecticut, highlighting a nice weekender that has gone un noticed to many people I talk to.

I have jamesport on my must visit list scheduled for perhaps late April and/or early May.

Also, do you have a link for any sites with good overall message boards for wine enthusiasts?