New York Cork Report

Don't Worry About Winery Consolidation

(This column appeared originally in the 2/4 issue of Dan's Papers)

Don’t Worry About Winery Consolidation
HP and Compaq have merged, AT&T recently acquired Cingular Wireless and Verizon is buying WorldCom. Mergers and acquisitions are a part of every day life in the business world. And, no matter how romantic an image it might have, wine is a business. Big business.

So, it should come as no shock that the big fish in the wine pond are gulping up smaller fish all the time, including many producers of the wines you see at your local wine shop every day.

Fairly recently, Constellation Brands, already owners of the ubiquitous Franciscan Estates, Ravenswood, Simi and Estancia brands, acquired Robert Mondavi. Similarly, Diageo Chateau & Estates Wines, which is responsible for Beaulieu and Sterling wines, gobbled up Chalone Wine Group.

But what does this all mean for you, the wine lover? That really depends.

Channing Daughters Winery 2003 Fresh Red

Channing Daughters Winery, located in Bridgehampton, is one of the most unique wineries on Long Island. While most around here focus on Bordeaux varietals like Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon...Channing Daughters is always trying new things.

Think I'm kidding? Sure, they make Merlot, Cab Franc (only in good years though) and a few different Chardonnays...BUT they also make Blaufrankisch, Tocai Friuliano, a Fruilian-style white blend of Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco...and grow Dornfelder too. They also try just about every Chardonnay clone you can think of...with some always-interesting results.

Truly an artisanal producer, they make extremely small lots, which almost always sell out to their wine club before even "hitting the street."

Why do you think we had to join the club? These are wines that you have to get your hands on.

This bottle, the 2003 Fresh Red Merlot, is one of the few wines they make every year. And, they make more of this than anything else.
 

Wine...In Its Birthday Suit

Two of my favorite wine bloggers, Beau and Bill, have recently discussed wines that have a "sense of place"...and the "vin nature" movement on their respective blogs.

Please check out their posts...I'm not going to rehash them in their entirety.

As for my own thoughts...I think that terroir-driven wines are some the most interesting wines you can try. But it's pretty easy to understand why more producers don't make them a priority or even a goal.

I don't have any actual research to support this, but I'm guessing that at least 95% (propbably 99% actually) of wine drinkers just don't care about terroir. They don't want to think about the wines they drink. If they like it, and it gives them a buzz, they are happy. And you know what, if that's what makes them happy...I'm cool with that.

Even for those of us that do enjoy thinking about the wines we drink (okay, I'm obsessed, let's be honest here) the issue of terroir still isn't always front of mind. Maybe it's because I drink a lot of wines from a still-young wine region (the oldest vineyards are only 30 years old) or maybe it's because there are very few winemakers here that focus on terroir...but I don't always think about it either (please don't shun me o mighty wine blogging community!).

I will say that the "vin nature" wines that I've tasted were some of the most interesting...they have a uniqueness that is difficult to define. They seem more "real." But, I will admit to wondering if this is because of the wine itself, or because the winemaker TOLD me that they focused on terroir when making them. And, does this "terroir" come from the land/grapes/region...or does it really come from the winemaker himself (or herself)?

That question leads leads us into Tom's discussion over at Fermentations. I'll admit it, I don't quite know.

R.I.P. Bubba the Lobster

I guess Bubba, the 22-pound lobster, couldn't stand the thought of being in a zoo...he died today.

Now THAT is a Lobster

I'm a proud Pittsburgher...even if I've been in NY for over six years now. And, I always like to see what's happening in my beloved 'burgh...but this takes the cake.

Have you heard about this 22-pound lobster at Wholey Market in the Strip District section of downtown Pittsburgh? And no, it's not an area filled with "shaker joints"...it's right on the river and is filled with markets, restaurants, bars and Wholey Market...a well-known mecca of everything seafood.

I don't eat lobster...but this is a fun story. A lobster over 100 years old...I guess that makes Bubba a crusty crustacean, right?

I can't help but laugh at the "activist group" People For Eating Tasty Animals. That's some funny stuff.

Interview With Jean-Philippe Delmas

Philippe Blasco of Terroir-France has posted an interivew with Jean-Philippe Delmas, who runs Haut-Brion in Bordeaux. The piece is a little long, but definitely worth the read.

Check it out.