New York Cork Report

Next Generation: Jason’s Vineyard’s Delicious, Affordable Wines

You’ve probably seen Jason’s Vineyard on the right hand side of the Main Road (Route 25) heading east in Jamesport. But have you ever tasted the wines made from those grapes?

I first encountered Jason’s Vineyard wines about a year ago when I was going from tasting room to tasting room looking for the North Fork’s best sparkling wines. My journey took me to Pindar, where I was able to taste a few Jason’s Vineyard wines. I was so impressed that his wines were the only bottles I purchased that day.

So who is Jason and why are his wines available at Pindar? The Jason in Jason’s Vineyard is Jason Damianos, son of Herodotus “Dan” Damianos, owner of both Pindar on the North Fork and Duck Walk Vineyards on the South Fork. Jason is Pindar’s winemaker and has also worked as winemaker at Duck Walk.

In 1996, the younger Damianos made a trip to Bordeaux that would inspire him to found Jason’s Vineyard in 1999. He grows Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay and uses the grapes to craft three different reds and a chardonnay – all priced under $20.

Three Things I Like About the House We're Thinking About Buying

1. There's a peach tree in the back yard
2. There's a fig tree in the back yard
3. There's grapes growing back there too (no idea what kind...I'm guessing some native variety)

Those aren't the only three things of course...but they are the most LENNDEVOURS-appropriate things

Atwater Estate Vineyards 2004 Dry Riesling

There's no doubt about it -- my favorite white varietal is riesling. Of course, I don't like every one I try. They need to have that that zing of acidity that 'forces' me into another sip (and another and anoter and another).

New York's Finger Lakes region is pretty well known for it's riesling, with Dr. Konstantin Frank probably the most well known outside of the state. This relatively winter-hardy varietal has done very well in the region becuase it ripens even in the cool Finger Lakes climate and because good wines can be made from riesling that isn't at full ripeness.

In many ways, the Finger Lakes region is the perfect place to grow U.S. riesling. In California riesling is often grown in cooler central coast areas...they often lack the backbone acidity because night time temperatures aren't cool enough. In Oregon and Washington State, they have the cool temperatures at night, but the daytime temperatures often rise higher than they do in central New York.

Finally...a Story About NY Wines That I Can Commend

About a week ago, there was a story in the San Francisco Chronicle about New York Wines. If you've been reading LENNDEVOURS for a while, you know that I typically find lots of problems with stories written about New York wines. They either unfairly compare them to California or Bordeaux (and basically say they suck because they aren't the same) or focus only on the "big name" wineries that the same people write about again and again and again.

Dave McIntyre's piece, however, will not draw the ire of this NY wine writer. In fact, I really liked it.

While he did talk to the "usual suspsects" on Long Island...I think it's a well written, balanced story that acknowledges the quality despite differences in growing conditions and winemaking style from other regions.

I was particularly impressed with the list of recommended wines at the end of the piece...because I've had most of the wines listed and actually agree with these choices. Sure, there's other, smaller producers making wines I'd add, but this is a great start.

I love seeing NY wines in non-NY media...and I love it even more when it's done well. Cheers to you Mr. McIntyre.

The "Line 5 of 23rd Post" Meme

Even if Fatemah considers me the "most likely to blow me off" (without reason I might add) I've decided to take part in this meme.

Basically, I've been asked to dig back into the LENNDEVOURS archives to find my 23rd post and the fifth line of that post.

So...looking back, my 23rd post happens to have been done on April 26, 2004...my 29th birthday. It wasn't a ground-breaking post by any means, but the fifth line is interesting:

"Hopefully I've 'cellared' it well and it's still good..."

What exactly am I talking about here? It was a bottle of 1996 Barolo that I decided to open with dinner.

It's interesting to look back...because that was just at the beginning of my full-blown wine-geekdom...and I've learned SO much since then. Notice the phrase "still good"...like wine is either good or bad...no in between.

I don't even remember the wine, sadly. And part of me wishes I hadn't opened it. I think I'd be able to appreciate it much more now. At the time, I probably thought it harsh or "too big" or something.

I've learned so much about wine since this post...and I have so many people to thank...many of whom are members of the food/wine blogging community. So thanks!

Looking back at my archives also makes me realize how much I've gotten away from posting about the cooking Nena and I do. Perhaps LENNDEVOURS has become far too wine-centric. Perhaps I've not been cooking as much as I used to.

It's always fun to look back...and then look to the future.

So who should I force to look back at the history of their blogs?

1. Cookin' in the 'Cuse
2. Kristin Confit
3. Basic Juice
4. Dr. Vino
5. Iron Stomach

Long Island Merlot Makers Form the Long Island Merlot Alliance

In this week's  "Long Island Vines," New York Times writer Howard Goldberg announced the formation of the Long Island Merlot Alliance.

He does a nice job introducing the endeavor...which has come of often when I've spoken to winemakers and winery owners. People tend to feel very strongly about the LIMA...on both sides.

I've written before that I'm not sold on pushing merlot as "the region's flagship wine" mostly because I'm not sure that all of the best wines here are merlot or that the one-varietal push is what Long Island needs to stand out. Proponents point to Oregon starting as a "pinot noir region"...opponents say that those in favor of this approach are self-serving because their vineyards are filled with merlot vines already -- it's what they've invested in.

I know that the LIMA alliance has its roots in quality standards...then it started to become more of a "marketing push" and that it's changed again since I last had a detailed discussion with anyone about it. Bedell Cellars isn't the only big-time merlot maker here that has backed out (Lenz Winery comes to mind as well). So, this issue warrants further investigation (which I plan to do).

Before I can really comment on either side, I want to better understand what the true purpose is. If it's a quality-focused initiative (which is something I can get behind) that also pushes for better farming practices (another great thing) I'm for it.

I do share Charles Massoud's concerns about ignoring LI's diversity, however.

I wonder (out loud) if this initiative has anything to do with the relative ineffectiveness of the Long Island Wine Council in its efforts to promote the region.

A Great Family Photo

Nena sent me an email this morning that just said: "You're really slacking with LENNDEVOURS lately."

You know, she's right. Between my day job demanding more full-time attention, various print writing projects I'm working on and (oh yeah) us dealing with mortgage brokers, home inspectors and the like as we try to buy our first Castello di Thompson...I've just not has nearly as much time as I'd like.

But, as you can see in the above picture, we've still made time to enjoy some vineyard trips.

My parents were in town last Friday through Monday morning and we spent Sunday (pre-Steelers game) touring a few wineries that my parents like so they could stock up (since NY wineries still can't ship to Pennsylvania). It was also Ben's first multi-vineyard trip out east...and he did just fine.

In fact, I think he'd make an excellent vineyard dog. He was at his most happy when walking up and down the rows. He made me proud.

Sensory Training, Tour and Tasting at Pellegrini Vineyards

Last weekend, as I walked through the barrel room at Pellegrini Vineyards with the lovely Mrs. LENNDEVOURS and four friends, one of the biggest reasons I love wine hit me yet again — there’s always something more to learn……always. In fact, I’m not sure you can ever know everything there is to know about my favorite farm product (and beverage).

We were at Pellegrini taking part in the first class in their wine education series, “Sensory Training, Tour and Tasting,”  ran this summer. We started with a tour of Pellegrini’s vineyard, winery and various barrel rooms as Juan “John” Eduardo Micieli-Martinez, production winemaker at both Pellegrini Vineyards and Premium Wine Group, answered questions and shared his insight into both grape growing and winemaking. We couldn’t have asked for a better day in terms of weather, setting and tour guide.

Feast for the Gulf Coast -- Martha Clara Vineyards, October 2nd

On Sunday, October 2nd, Martha Clara Vineyards is hosting "Feast for the Gulf Coast" a fundraiser for the victims of Hurricane Katrina.

From noon to 6:00 p.m. there will be live music, wine, seafood, BBQ and a gumbo cookoff...all for $25. It's my understanding that all of the food/wine/entertainment has been donated, so $25 is a steal of a deal...and even if it were $125 it would be an event worth checking out both for the event it self and for the important cause.

All proceeds are being donated to Habitat for Humanity Katrina Relief, the Farm Bureau Hurricane Ag Fund and the Bush-Clinton Hurricane Katrina Fund.

For tickets, call 631-765-4168 or 631-298-0075 ext. 13.

I'm planning to attend and hope to see several of you there.

Osprey's Dominion Vineyards Gives to Katrina Relief

I'll write more soon about our winery visits from this past weekend, but I wanted to give Osprey's Dominion Vineyard credit for dontating $1 for every bottle purchased in their tasting room during September.

The tasting room, however, wasn't a great experience on Saturday. The staff seemed completely overwhelmed and they were unpolished (bordering on rude). It was not one of the best experiences we've had.

Basic Juice Wine Meme -- The Best in the Last 30

My Utah-living vinobrother Beau of Basic Juice has started a wine meme -- with two tails, and he's called upon me as his first "tag, you're it" victim.

For wine bloggers, he's interested in knowing what the best wine (bottle or glass) is that I've tasted in the last 30 days. I've tasted so many wines in that span that it's tough to say...but luckily I've got my handy dandy wine notebook to guide me.

Thumbing through, there are several contenders...but the winner is:

The First New Wines From Old Vines at Vineyard 48

                   
I first introduced you to Vineyard 48 in early May when they released their first wines under the Vineyard 48 label. Even though Italian-born Rose Pipia and her son Joseph Pipia had taken over the old Bidwell Winery in Cutchogue a year before that, the wines were really old Bidwell stock that was tweaked by winemaker Mathew Berenz and winemaking consultant Roman Roth of Wolffer Estate. While most of the releases were palatable, the ten-dollar red table blend was probably my favorite.

                  

Everyone at Vineyard 48 told me at the time “Just wait for the 2004 releases, they’re going to be great.” And, with a quality winemaking team, the Island’s second oldest vines and Steve Mudd of Mudd Vineyards on board to help get them healthy again, I had similarly high hopes myself.

                  

Last week, Vineyard 48 dropped off samples of four 2004 whites — two different Rieslings, a Sauvignon Blanc and a Chardonnay. These wines have yet to be released (but they will be soon) and the bottles were labeled only with Post-It notes.

Long Island's Route 48 Wine Trail Featured on Dr. Vino Wine Blog

Head on over to Dr. Vino, one of the world's seven best wine blogs, to read a piece I wrote about Long Island's Route 48 Wine Trail.

The story started as an email exchange between Doc and myself...and has turned into a three-part serious on Long Island wineries. In coming weeks I'll be exploring Long Island's other wine trails -- Route 25 and the Hamptons.

Check out the story and if you have any questions, feel free to get in touch with me.

Wine Blogging Wednesday Logo Design Contest

I'm pleased to announce the first contest here at LENNDEVOURS -- the Wine Blogging Wednesday Logo Design Contest.

It's pretty simple...I think WBW needs a logo, an icon if you will, to take it even further in the food and wine blogging world. This logo would be used to:

• Identify each month's host (they could put it on their blog's homepage)
• Announce new themes every month (in the post itself)
• Make the designer famous in the blogosphere, or even more famous depending on the winner

I'm not going to set forth a bunch of rules for this...that mutes creativity. Here's the basics though:

• Prize: I have no idea yet. Maybe nothing...maybe some wine from my cellar...maybe just a heartfelt thank you
• Judging: I'm going to ask a few regular WBW participants to serve as the jury. Or maybe I'll post all of the ideas and have you, my faithful readers, vote. I'm open to suggestions. Just leave me a comment.
• Deadline: Logo design isn't easy and I know it takes time. So, let's set November 1st as the date all entries are due.
• To Enter: Email your logo idea to me at lenndevours@gmail.com

Note: You will retain all rights to the graphic. I'm not looking to rip anyone off...and you can use the logo to make a fortune at Cafe Press selling WBW t-shirts.

Wine Blogging Wednesday #14 Announced -- New New-World Pinot Noir

Ah pinot noir. Sideways sure helped but I think it's popularity was on the rise even before the movie's release.

For October's vintage of Wine Blogging Wednesday, Jens of Cincinnati Wine Garage has chosen the theme New New-World Pinot Noir.

What is new New-World pinot noir? That would be New World Pinot Noir that doesn't come from France or the West Coast of the United States.

You know I'm game for this topic, as New York is producing some good pinot these days (and I happen to have several I may taste through for WBW)...and I expect we'll see a lot of Kiwi entries as well.

This type of WBW theme is about leaving your comfort zone (so maybe I won't drink a Long Island wine) and experiencing something new. Maybe I can find a Pennsylvania pinot?

Head over to Cincinnati Wine Garage and get your pinot noir motor running.

An Idea Whose Time Has Definitely Come

You may or may not know this, but New York State passed a law a year or so ago that allows you to take home wine (from a bottle) that you don't finish at a restaurant.

Not many people know this -- including many restaurants -- so it's important to get the word out.

 

There are, of course, conditions that must be met to avoid being in violation of NY's open container laws, including:

• The wine has to be purchased with a "full-course meal"
• The restaurant must provide a dated receipt for the meal and the wine
• The bottle must be "resealed", which I'm assuming means the cork pushed back in...but wouldn't you do that anyway?
• The bottle must be sealed in a clear plastic bag (you can bring your own if you know the restaurant doesn' t have them)

(For a full list of the conditions, read Bulletin 588 from the NY State Alcoholic Beverage Control Board)

 

If your favorite restaurant knows about these rules, there should be no problem...so get the word out.

And, tt least one company, www.winedoggybag.com, is producing "wine doggy bags" that restaurants (or you) can order, so ask your restaurateur to look into it if they haven't already.

I must say, even if Nena and I rarely leave wine in a bottle, it's nice to be able to consume part of a bottle of wine at a restaurant and then take the rest home. There are several states that have adopted this policy as well, including Colorado, Connecticut, Florida, Missouri, Nebraska, New Hampshire, Vermont, and Washington State.

Wine Blogging Wednesday #13 Round Up -- Like Wine for Chocolate

September's vintage of Wine Blogging Wednesday has come and gone -- so head on over to Chocolate & Zucchini and read Clotilde's round up of WBW #13 Like Water for Chocolate. 

I know that this was probably one of my favorite vintages of WBW and judging by the fact that we had 56 participants (a new record!)...I'm not alone.

Keep an eye out for the annoucement of Wine Blogging Wednesday #14.

And thanks again, Clotilde, for the great theme idea and serving as our humble host. You're the best.

Want to host an upcoming episode of the world's premier wine blogging event? Email me and let me know.

Orphan Wines Worth Taking Home With You

Every few months, the “wine for review” portion of my wine cellar begins to overflow with bottles that I refer to as “orphans.” These wines are new releases from local wineries that just haven’t worked their way into my articles – often because I can’t devote an entire column to just one or two new releases – not because they aren’t column-worthy.

Pet adoptions is a wonderfully rewarding experience (we just adopted a beagle puppy from Kent Animal Shelter in Calverton) and taking one of these orphan wines home with you can be, too. Adopt one of these wines today.

Ben Gets in on the Act

It was really only a matter of time...children (and apparently puppies) learn by watching and emulating their parents.

Our little guy, Ben Roethlisbeagle has officially started his wine education, sniffing at just about every glass of wine poured in the LENNDEVOURS household.

At right, the pup prodigy can be seen enjoying the aromas found in Laurel Lake Vineyards' 2003 Pinot Noir. He liked what he smelled...and let's face it, his nose is the most astute in the house.

Maybe we have the next (first?) Robert Barker on our hands.

Riding a Wave at Waters Crest Winery

Waters Crest Winery, co-owned by Jim and Linda Waters, is still a relatively new winery, tucked into a small industrial park in Cutchogue. And while the tasting room and production facilities may be among the smallest around, the wines that come out of them are far from diminutive.

To the Waters’, the winery is truly a family affair. Visit on most any day and you’re just about guaranteed to meet Jim, Linda or even their daughters. They are a warm, charming family and they’ll make you feel right at home as you taste the wines and, if you like, get a quick tour of the barrel room.

In the past I’ve called Jim’s Riesling my favorite local version, so I was looking forward to tasting his 2004 vintage along with five other current releases.

Wine Blogging Wednesday #13 -- Four Wines for Chocolate?

September's vintage of Wine Blogging Wednesday is here, and our host, the food blogging sensation Clotilde of Chocolate & Zucchini has chosen chocolate cake as our first WBW pairing partner, even providing us with a recipe.

From the moment Clotilde first mentioned her theme idea to me...my mind started to work (harder than usual). I love quality dessert wine, so that was the obvious route, but what kind would be best?

I honestly wasn't sure because I'm the type of person to drink (and even serve) a nice dessert wine in lieu of dessert (instead of with dessert).

So, after a little research, Sauternes popped up as an option. Wanting to stick with my usual wine region (you all know where that is by now), I picked up a bottle of Jamesport Vineyards 1998 Semi-Glace ($20) (a semillon dessert wine) instead.

After a quick look in my cellar I found a couple more dessert wine options, emerging with both a raspberry wine ($18) and a blueberry wine ($10) from Baldwin Vineyards in New York's Hudson Valley. And finally, as I shopped for some cava or prosecco to serve with brunch last Sunday, I picked up a bottle of 2004 Rosa Regale Brachetto d'Acqui D.O.C.G. ($20).

Knowing that my in-laws (who were in town) read LENNDEVOURS and love trying new wines...I thought dinner last Friday night the perfect time to unleash these wines...along with a cake Nena baked following Clotilde's recipe.

Corey Creek Vineyards 2003 Chardonnay

Corey Creek Vineyards is the sister winery to one of Long Island's most well-known and well-regarded wineries, Bedell Cellars. (Both are owned by Michael Lynne, New Line Cinema's co-chairman and co-CEO)

More and more (of late) the whites are being produced uner the Corey Creek label while the reds, including some of the region's top merlot, are bottled using the Bedell Cellars label. I just noticed today that the 2004 viognier is labeled as Corey Creek for the first time. And, sadly they only made enough to send to their wine club. The 2003 was one of my favorite whites.

The Corey Creek Vineyards 2003 Chardonnay is 100% chardonnay from 23-year old vines, which is pretty old for Long Island. It was fermented in stainless steel tanks and aged in stainless steel as well. 630 cases were produced.

September 10: Lenz Winery 16th Annual Merlot World Classic

This Saturday, September 10, 2005, from 5:30 p.m. to 8:00 p.m. The Lenz Winery is hosting the 16th Annual Merlot World Classic.

This unique winery event features a walk-around tasting of merlots from around the world presented by distributors, as well as several local wineries.

This year Artisanal Cheese Center, and Artisanal’s Fromagers, Max McCalman and Waldemar Albrecht will present cheese pairings, specifically chosen for their compatibility with merlot.

Tickets are $40 if purchased ahead and $45 at the door and include unlimited tastings, a Lenz tasting glass, cheese sampling and a raffle ticket for several wine prizes to be raffled off starting at 6:30 p.m.

I'm still waiting to hear about what non-LI merlot will be poured...once I find out I'll pass that information along as well.

Help the Victims of Hurrican Katrina -- Let it Flow

Beau over at basicJuice is spearheading and excellent idea -- Let it flow.

The idea is simple...take the money you typically spend on wine and beer (for a week, a month or even a year) and donate it to help the Gulf Coast recover in this time of extreme and urgent need.

You can donate to any number of places, including:

• Red Cross
• Second Harvest
• Catholic Charities
• Direct Relief
• Feed the Children
• Habitat for Humanity
• The Humane Society
• Noah’s Wish
• The Salvation Army
• United Jewish Communities
• UMCOR
• United Way

Every little bit helps. So let's band together a community of food/wine lovers and do what we can.

Taking Flight at Osprey's Dominion

In early August, Osprey’s Dominion Vineyards was named New York’s “Winery of the Year” by the New York Grape and Wine Foundation at its annual New York Food and Wine Classic. The winery earned the honor by winning seven medals at the event, including two double golds, one gold, two silvers and two bronzes.

Winemaker Adam Suprenant, a Bronxville, New York, native who joined Osprey’s Dominion after graduating from the world-renowned U.C. Davis oenology program, is proud of the winery’s showing.

“It’s great to be recognized after more than four years of dedicated hard work here at Osprey’s Dominion,” said Suprenant, ìbut it also reflects well on the commitment and philosophy of the owners, Bud Koehler and Bill Tyree, to produce high quality wines. Much credit is also deserved by our vineyard manager, Tom Stevenson (also a U.C. Davis graduate) for giving me great fruit to work with.”