New York Cork Report

The Urban Legend of Sulfites

By Contributing Columnist Richard Olsen-Harbich

You know all those urban legend stories -- like the one about alligators in the NYC sewers and the blind date that ends with you waking up in a bathtub of ice. Well, we have our own version of an urban legend in the wine industry. It goes something like this…

All of the stories are the same and involve a couple returning from a recent trip to Europe. The couple talks about how they drank wine like crazy and never once had a hangover. They reminisce about how they met local winemakers who told them  “American wines all have sulfites and ours don’t.” The couple agrees that when they are back home in the U.S. they cannot drink wine the same way and enjoy it as much. They insist that the sulfites used in American wine gives them a headache and they inevitably want to know why we have to use them. They usually try to stick to white wine because of the sulfites in reds. They never buy another bottle of American wine.

What’s going on here?

The reality is that this is an actual story that has been told to me many times. My answer to them is always the same: “perhaps it has something to do with you being relaxed and on vacation!” I tell them the reason they feel so good in Europe is simple; “You know, being away from home, the kids, the pets, the daily grind of work, sleeping a little later, having lots of 'intimate time'."

At this point most of them give me dirty looks and shake their heads in disbelief. Some of the wives will snort and elbow their husbands in the ribs. I try to explain there’s nothing in the medical literature proving sulfites have anything to do with headaches and that red wines contain lower levels of sulfites compared to whites. By now of course, I’ve lost them.

Whatever people may want to believe, one thing is for certain. The problem is not sulfites. It’s time for this urban legend to be debunked.

The Steelers Win the Super Bowl

Boy what a game! I'm still waiting for Ben to really show up, but the D played a good game and held when it had to, Antwaan Randel El did what the great playmakers do -- made a big play, and Hines deserves the MVP award even if he had a couple uncharacteristic drops.

Jerome Bettis, you've given Pittsburgh ten great seasons. It's been a pleasure watching you punish defenses and I look forward to seeing you pound your way into the Hall of Fame as well.

Now to all things culinary. Since there were just four of us (I can't watch big games like this with big groups of non-believers) I stuck with making my own rendition of Roethlisburgers that I made a bit more healthy by using ground turkey and fresh chicken sausage from Wild By Nature. Delicious and at least a little more guilt-free than the originals. We also had pierogies sauteed with butter and caramelized onions....and a lot if I.C. Light beer.

I'm also happy to report that, with the big win, the Steelers won me this bottle of wine from the Culinary Fool. Unfortunately, her post (and the congratulatory email she sent me) were so gracious that I just can't bring myself to talk the post-game trash that I had planned...damn you Brenda.

As she mentions in her post, I certainly will enjoy and appreciate this bottle.

All in all, a tremendous season and a memorable Super Bowl win. I was four years old for the last one, so I'm glad to have one that I'll remember for the rest of my life.

Now that we've won one for the thumb, let's start on the other hand next year.

I'd also like to take a moment to thank my lovingly tolerant wife for putting up with my psychotic Steelers-related behavior over the last forever. Thanks for not having me sent away...

Some Good Wines, and an Even Better Cause at Martha Clara Vineyards

As mentioned right here a couple weeks ago, the 2006 Long Island Wine Country Winter Festival is taking place throughout the month of February. And it should come as no surprise that Martha Clara Vineyards, they of the jam-packed event schedule, is taking part in a big way. Cooking classes, chocolate-making demonstrations and oyster shucking dot the calendar. But one event stands out.

On Friday, February 17, Martha Clara Vineyards is hosting a dinner and auction to benefit Healing the Children – Northeast for a medical mission to Guayaquil, Ecuador, that will provide healthcare and surgery to the poor children of the region. Dinner will include authentic Ecuadorian fare, including locro, a potato soup made with cheese and avocado, chicken in peanut sauce, churrasco barbequed steak, shrimp ceviche, fried yucca, fried plantains and coconut cookies. For just $30 you get dinner, beer, wine and entrance to the auction, which includes items such as dinner for two at Tavern on the Green, tickets to a play in New York City, dinner for 10 at Martha Clara Vineyards, and many more prizes.

Reserve your seats by February 11 by calling 298-0075 ext. 22 or make donations to Healing the Children – Northeast by mailing them to P.O. Box 129, New Milford, CT 06776.

Arrive early and taste some of Martha Clara’s bottlings in their always-busy tasting room. Of their new and current releases, a few stand out and are certainly worth trying.

Bedell Cellars Announces Trent Preszler as Chief Operating Officer and John Irving Levenberg as Winemaker

Bedell Cellars, owned by New Line Cinema Co-Chairman and Co-CEO Michael Lynne, reaffirming its commitment to world-class wine with the slight reorganization of its core team, including the naming of Trent Preszler as Chief Operating Officer. Initially recruited in 2002 to spearhead sales as National Brand Manager, Trent has been the Vice President of Operations since 2004. In that role Trent saw the winery through its ambitious renovation, highly-acclaimed vintages and a continually developing relationship with the contemporary art world.

As well, John Irving Levenberg, formerly associate winemaker, has been named winemaker to work along with founder Kip Bedell and consulting Oenologist Pascal Marty to continue producing world-renowned vintages and innovative blends, while strengthening the region as a leading producer of quality wines.

Bedell is already known for making some of the best wines (particularly merlot) and for their dedication to cracking the top echelon of the worldwide wine world. Trent is someone I've had several discussions with and he is one of the brightest people in the local industry. I've not tasted enough of the wines that John was heavily involved in to make a comment, but Michael obviously believes in him.

Wine Blogging #18 -- Moore Brothers Wine Company

Today is Wine Blogging Wednesday, the International wine-tasting sensation. This time around the good Doctor (Vino) has asked us to put down our glasses (at least temporarily) and highlight a wine shop that feels the love.

I've written often about how much I dislike most of my local wine shops. I'm always annoyed at their limited selection, tendency to stock only big-name, mass-produced bottles and, in one case, the environment of the store (always feels hot to me when I walk in).

There are a few semi-local shops that I enjoy, including Mora's Fine Wine and Spirits, Grape Culture and Stew Leonard's. But none of those quite made the cut for my WBW contribution.

No, for that, I have to travel down to southern New Jersey, just outside of Philadelphia to Moore Brothers Wine. Our friends Paul and Sara took us there when we last visited...and I was blown away.

From the moment you step inside, you know you're in a different type of wine shop. For one, bring a jacket...the entire store is chilled to the mid-50s...ideal for storing wine. Secondly, in our hour there, I met (and actually spent a little time with) both Moore Brothers...Greg (former sommelier at Le Bec Fin) and David. Their passion for wine oozes from their very pours.

Much like some of the best wine shops I've read about on the West Coast, the Moore Brothers spend six months out of the year visiting small producers in Germany, France and Italy. Almost all of their wines come from those three countries (they have a little CA stuff, but it's a small area) and in many cases, the Moore Brothers are the exclusive importers of these wines.

They are true sticklers for storage temperature and will only work with producers that are willing to store and ship all of their wines at 55 degrees F. And, sadly for me, they won't ship wines either.

The other thing that impressed me was they stock wines throughout the price spectrum...except the uber-expensive stuff. David asked me what kinds of wines I liked, and when I told him (can't recall what I was drinking a lot of then) he showed me four bottles that he'd recommend...ranging from $8 to $30.

The star purchase, for me anyway, was a $20 bottle of 2001 Wein & Sektgut Thielen Merlen Fettgarten Riesling Spatlese. Spectaucular...and sold out long.

Greg actually found LENNDEVOURS months after my visit and we discussed the 2003 vintage of the Thielen and their plans to open a store in Manhattan.

Right now, they have two locations the one I visited at 7200 North Park Drive, Pennsauken, NJ and one located at 1416 North DuPont Street, Wilmington, Delaware. I'd definitely recommend Moore Brothers to anyone. They also maintain a database of your purchases and you can review them online, highlight what wines you liked best and then they'll make recommendations based on the information.

tags: wine |  wine blogging wednesday |  WBW|  WBW 18 |  wine shops |  New Jersey

WTN: Martha Clara Vineyards NV Brut

Long Island sparkling wine tends to be a bit pricey, with the best bottles creeping up over the 35-dollar mark (and at least one going higher). At $20, this bubbly made in the traditional method of Champagne by Martha Clara Vineyards offers elegant, refined apple and biscuit aromas and crisp, refreshingly tart apple flavors. New Years Eve is a thing of the past, but this is a sparkler you can, and should, drink year round.

(This "Vintage of the Week" appeared in the Long Island Press)