"There is no reason to produce wimpy little pink wines with no varietal character."
That's what David Page, co-owner of Shinn Estate Vineyards said when I asked him about his 2006 Rose ($16).
Their rose is different alright--different from every other Long Island rose I've tasted this summer. It's a much richer, bolder wine. The strawberry- and watermelon-scented wine is far from wimpy. It's medium bodied and much rounder and fuller on the palate--but still balanced with gentle acidity and even a little tannic structure.
There is a faint buttery note too, although malolactic fermentation was strictly avoided. For me, it's almost too bold, but it's still plenty fresh, refreshing and versatile.
Page, a professional chef, recommends it with "everything from lobster rolls on the beach to charred steaks in the backyard." Sounds like the perfect wine for a North Fork summer.
It's worth mentioning that rose isn't an afterthought (or a by product of red wine production) at Shinn. They have a particular lot, of a particular clone of merlot that they devote to their rose every year.
Producer: Shinn Estate Vineyards
AVA: North Fork of Long Island