Wine Chick Wednesday: I'm in a New York State of Disconnect

We New Yorkers are a weird bunch.

To start, we can’t even agree on what being a New Yorker means. A former NYC resident myself, I always found it beyond comical that NY1 would devote an entire 60 seconds to the “World Beyond New York” – be it Long Island, Louisiana or Lithuania, it was all the same upon exit from the five boroughs. Is that, then, the true New York?

Not likely. Despite the heavy tax-base and votership in that small speck of real estate, the rest of the state ends up feeling neglected and overlooked. For example, when I first moved to New YorkCity, I was astounded to see how few wine shops and restaurants carried Long Island wines.

Not much had changed when I found myself working in such a shop five years later; the owners swore the wines would never sell because no one knew them or trusted them. Sadly, such proclamations were more often true than not and it was only the daring customer who would take my Long Island recommendations. I found it surreal that consumers would trust wines hailing from entirely different hemispheres over those from their geographical backyard.

This question of New York viniferal loyalty was further compounded by my move to Buffalo.

Sure, I’m from Long Island, but I’ve lived in both NYC and the Hudson Valley (I skipped the Finger Lakes, but give me time...). I almost innately found myself turning my nose up at local wines without ever having tried them. “They’re from Lockport..." I'd sigh. "How good can they be?"

While I’m certainly not writing this to boast one area over another, I’ve come to find it quite curious that we don’t band together more as an entire state. We’ve got an uphill battle here, folks. California is out-fruit-bombing us, France is out-prestiging us, South American is under-pricing us, and Italy is out-experimenting us.

New York, my fellow/femellow (which, by the way, is the new moniker attached to cool chicks like myself) bloggers can testify, produces fantastic wines when the winemakers do not attempt to coerce them into being something they’re not. It damn near breaks my heart every time I taste an overly oaked NY Chardonnay. Why is this happening?!

New York has the perfect climate for Chard. We can coax the subtleties out of aroma and flavor that are lost in the California heat and we can promise to maintain purity of fruit that won't necessarily ripen in Burgundy.

But I digress. This is not a slam on winemakers who understandably want to turn around sagging profits by catering to whatever they deem the public demand to be. Instead, I want this to be a rallying cry:

We, the wine drinkers of, want wines that we are proud of, and in exchange, we promise to drink and promote them. We only have ourselves to blame every time we turn our noses up at a burgeoning wine region, something that Lenn pointed out that I did this very week.

In addition to promising to support NY wines, we need to make the vow to be all Three Musketeer-ish about it: this is an all-for-one and one-for-all kinda deal. Why can I not find many NY wines on wine lists in Buffalo?

And why, if I do find a few, are they always Rieslings from the Finger Lakes?

The former sommelier from Bacchus anecdotally told me once of a Bordeaux tasting he’d held at which he decanted an older LI Merlot and served it as a ringer. His guests raved about the beauty of the Pomerol in their glasses… and were horrified when they discovered the ‘ugly’ truth. I wish more sommeliers were willing to take such risks.

Bascially, we can continue to blame the low-perception of NY wines on lack of consumer demand or we can turn that around. Hell, most consumers don’t know what they want until a slick ad campaign tells them – hence the ubersuccess of yellow tail.

I’m not saying we should plop Dr Frank et al in a mermaid/kangaroo/canary costume or anything (though – GIGGLES!!) but surely the best way to change the perception is to buy, serve, drink, and demand. Who’s with me?

If you need to find me, I’ll be the one on the soapbox. With the megaphone. Clearly.

 

 

Comments

[Lenn]

You know I'M with you, Jay.

One thing that I noticed when I was researching our Finger Lakes trip in April...MANY of the restaurants in the region seem to have Finger Lakes-focused wine lists! That's great...but why aren't more Long Island restaurants doing the same?

Sure, there are more LI wines on lists..but only on the East End. Get to central Suffolk and west...and you won't find much. Instead, these restaurants are serving boring wines at ridiculous markups. If more NY wines were offered by the glass, that's a way for consumers unfamiliar to try them (instead of investing in a full bottle). That's a doorway into their wine hearts!

Part of the problem is really that while individual wineries have been able to penetrate wine shops and restaurants, there isn't a concerted effort NY-wide to make this happen.

What can we do as individual NY wine lovers though? I think this blog probably helps...but maybe not?

I pour NY wines for anyone who will drink them...and even for people who won't. I've never come across someone who I couldn't impress with a local wine. Ever.

[Jason Feulner]

The reason the Finger Lakes restaurants are offering Finger Lakes wines is that the culture of the area is much less--how can I put this delicately--convinced that it is chic, metropolitan, worldly, what-have-you. The locals are living in what are essentially rural agricultural economies and the visitors are coming for one reason: to visit a beautiful wine country. It only makes sense that these establishments would carry wines that the locals are proud of and the visitors are intrigued by.

Go to the upstate cities like Rochester and Syracuse, and some restaurants fall into the mark-up on the French-California-Australia set of basic offerings. In my experience, however, there are more restaurants within these cities that take a chance with Finger Lakes wines, although they could try a little harder. Most residents of the I-90 corridor have made some sort of trip into the Finger Lakes so I think that the wines could sell if a creative variety was offered on the list.

I think Finger Lakes rieslings are often featured in various parts of the state because they really are a safe bet in terms of the market. California simply can't make many good rieslings nor produce the variety on a massive scale, and the "decent" rieslings from Washington never seem widely available. Hence, you have an accessible white wine that eludes the major growing regions, is usually relatively inexpensive, and critics seem to indicate that the Finger Lakes climate is suited to the task of imitating German success. Hence, the Finger Lakes riesling makes a safe bet to diversify a wine list and make it seems slightly more "local."

The Finger Lakes rieslings simply don't have that much domestic competition.

If the Finger Lakes excelled in merlot, I'm sure that the region's wines would face the same wine list exclusions as Long Island.

[Jack]

New York has the perfect climate for Chard. We can coax the subtleties out of aroma and flavor that are lost in the California heat and we can promise to maintain purity of fruit that won't necessarily ripen in Burgundy.

It's yet to be proven that New York has the perfect climate for any grape. And, certainly not Chardonnay! Com'on, if you were to pick the most successful white wine grape, everything seems to point to Riesling.

If Chardonnay was PERFECT, would NY chardonnays not be on all the best wine lists in the country? Oh...good point me.

[Jason Feulner]

Wow, I must have been tired before...two "hences" in one paragraph make not a good single point.

Jack, I agree that NY, and the Finger Lakes, has not proven its worth in chardonnay compared to rieslings, although I think that some producers have really exhibited some unique and interesting results with this grape that resemble the subtle floral fruit flavors of the European offerings. Many of the more learned winemakers with whom I've spoken compare the Finger Lakes climate to that of north-central France, and believe that chardonnay and pinot can really thrive. Burgundy--maybe not every year--but certainly something like Champagne.

If I had to make a guess, I think the FL will have a strong, notable showing of chardonnays within the next few generations, coupled with some really strong sparklers. Right now, the chardonnays can be excellent and interesting at one producer, flat and boring at the next. I'm sure yields and techniques has something to do with it.

It's certainly interesting to see how these things develop.

[Dan]

Jamie,
I think you make some very good points. I've been frustrated for a while with the lack of local pride and support for NY specialties, not just wine. Maybe we have too much of everything and too many choices?
Ever meet somebody from State College PA that didn't sell you on their local college football team? Or someone from New haven that didn't tell you about their pizza, or Green Bay Packers Football, or Southern BBQ. These things are so important to the people who live their and they demand it.
By most accounts long Island has world class Oysters(Blue Point are named after Blue Point LI) and Japan imports thousands of dozens a year and regards them as an expensive delicacy. Do NYers? I don't think they do. Little Neck clams(named after Little Neck Bay) are the same. Long Island has 125 miles of beach shoreline and some people travel to another beach to vacation. NY has world class fishing (Hudson river Stripers, Peconic Bay oyesters and scallops, LI sound lobsters and Blackfish, Great South Bay crabs, Hudson Canyon TUNA, and cod and everything else in Montauk. Do locals praise and seek this stuff with pride. Not really. They ask for Maine lobster or Maryland crabs or Chatham cod. NY wines are treated the same way. However, a younger generation is more open minded and more aware of our planet and the importance of locally sourced food and drink. I drink local wines not just because they are in my backyard, but because some of them are excellent. I was at an expense account restaurant the other night, and a nice 2003 Bordeaux was $19 by the glass(Hello!)and everybody was drinking it. It was nice and old world, mostly merlot, earthy,and tasted just like some of the finer LI Merlot blends-the truth. NY beer (Brooklyn, Blue Point, Southampton,Ommegang,Saranac) is being supported locally, why can't the wine? However, I believe change is on the way-I'm seeing it happen.
Dan

[Jay]

Lenn - I agree, I think this blog is doing a tremendous service! That's the whole reason I'm here. I respect what you've done and I want in on the action - Lil Miss Opportunist and all... ;-)
Jack - I have to disagree with you on this one. My point was that when winemakers allow the local terroir to shine w/o trying to make them into something they are not, the wines are gorgeous. I've had fantastic incarnations of Chard from NY that exemplify the subtleties that the grape is capable of. Sadly, those are few and far between. As far as Riesling, sure it does well, but partially the huge reliance upon it is due to public demand for sweet. (Hence the ginormous amount of plonky blushes as well...) There's a difference between discerning what does well and what will be most profitable. Certain warm climate grapes simply won't thrive in NY, but for me, Chard is at its best in cooler climates. I'll take a Burgundy - or Long Island - any day over Kendall Jackson.

[Bryan]

My experience in the Finger Lakes has been positive concerning local restaurants serving FL wines. The Stone Kat Cafe in Hector (east side of Seneca Lake) is one perfect example. L.I. and Manhattan, I agree are lacking considerably.

It's taken local government intervention here (Lockport) to stimulate conversation between the restaurants and wineries with grant allocations tied to pairing themed dinners. Ironically, a local thirst for Catawba and Niagara guarantees little competition with europe, lol.

[Steve Shaw]

I enjoyed the article by Jamie Gabrini,she makes very good sense to suggest that we all, including restaurants, could and should help strengthen our wine industry by being more open minded about trying and serving New York wines. I have a feeling the experiment she recounts that took place at Bacchus could be duplicated with many vinifera wines from quality New York wine producers. I dare say,even New York chardonnays would fair well. As Jamie suggests the best New York wine producers know how to let the unique terroir of their well managed vineyards power their winemaking styles. I believe this time honored method will ultimately become the primary driving force for any New York winery that wishes to raise the level of quality in its wines. The way you all advocate for the New York wine industry is also very important to the future success of the business.

[Lenn]

I think that it's important to remember that overzealous winemakers decimate top-flight fruit with too much new oak all over the world.

I happen to think that Jay is right...there are some terrific chardonnays being made in NYS. But, she's also right in saying that there are many more over-oaked renditions that aren't going to make NY look good!

Her "profits" vs. "what does best" point is important too. In the Finger Lakes, you hear about riesling. On Long Island, you hear about merlot. Guess what? I think LI's future may be in cab franc and sauv blanc. The FLs are putting out wines other than riesling that are just as exciting. Sparkling wine, for one, excels...and I've had some terrific gewurzt. Is gewurzt profitable? Probably not...people can't pronounce it.

People expect oak in chard...so wineries have to use it. I know many winemakers who wish they could get away from barrel ferm...but they need to keep the lights on.

[Jack]

I'm going to continue to disagree. If some of these wines were as good as you say, you'd find them at restaurants and wine stores around the country. Instead you don't find one.

It's incredibly easier to find wines from Slovenia than New York on the West Coast. (How funny is this when most people know that wine is made in NY but not Slovenia?) Perhaps you guys in NY just don't realize this, as you can purchase NY wines almost everywhere in NY, right?

Excellent wine at a fair price is in demand everywhere. It seems pretty clear that NY is not yet delivering that. This saddens me, esp. as I'm from New York and lived there for the first 35 years of my life.

[Foley]

Jack,
I've got to heartily disagree with your "if some of these wines were as good as you say, you'd find them at restaurants and wine stores around the country" comment. Production quantity and distribution dictate what shows up on your shelves moreso than what is good.
Many NY wineries don't even have distribution channels. They sell out their product to local restaurants and in the tasting room only.
I live in CT only a couple hours away from Long Island and outside of Pindar and maybe a Pellegrini or 2, I never see LI wine on shelves near me.
I also don't ever see any Rafanelli Zins or Martinelli Pinots (from CA) around me and they make excellent wines; they are just too limited in production to hit store shelves all across the country.

[Jay]

Speak it, bruthas and sistahs! Can I get a witness!

[Jason Feulner]

Jack,

There are some great wines here in NY that many miss certain regions and in many restaurants, including chardonnays among other varietals, but I think this can be explained with some economic analysis of markets.

Most restaurants and shops are beholden to two major factors: state laws and the distribution system. Let us ignore the former since it varies by a factor of 50, and instead pay attention to the latter.

Distributors are inclined to sell a few bottles of a certain wine to restaurants or shops or what-have-you based in part on the supply of that wine. Basically, they want to make as many sales of that wine as possible since most buyers will only pick up a relative handful of bottles.

In the case of many New York wineries, the relative number of cases produced of certain varietals simply does not attract the attention of these mass-distributors. There is not as much of an incentive to distribute wines from small operations. This effect is compounded the further one gets from the source of the product.

Of course, I know that you are immediately thinking that you've had a plethora of amazing wines from acclaimed international wineries that produce only a few hundred cases of certain varietals. True enough, but these are wines that have gained such acclaim from multiple generations of burgeoning critical reputation. Restaurants and stores will seek these products out directly no matter what, and specialty distributors can detect the value in carrying these wines.

In the Finger Lakes, some of the better-known producers such as Dr. Frank’s or Wiemer have broken from this paradigm somewhat, but they are still knocking on the door of a market that does not want to consider NY in the holistic sense. They are anomalies from an area that has not entered the popular consciousness.

At first glance, the lack of NY wines on many lists certainly speaks to the lack of consistency and reputation, but I cannot agree that this absence indicates that there are not some wines of distinct quality. There are excellent NY wines in existence, and what makes NY wines so much fun right now is that many of these gems are of the hidden treasure variety. It’s fun to seek these wines out, to share the secret with friends, and talk about the growing potential of the region.

What is wine without a little fun and intrigue and even uncertainty? These are qualities that are not always found on a vetted wine list, as it is quite clear that most of these wines are likely to satisfy.

[Jay]

At LCBO stores in Ontario, there's a very limited number of SKUs for CA wines; is that an indication of quality?

[Jack]

"I also don't ever see any Rafanelli Zins or Martinelli Pinots..." Sorry, but these ARE available at some NYC restaurants - and some NY wine merchants. But, Pindar and Wiemer, for example, are available everywhere in NY but W-S doesn't show either at any Cal. retailer.

The biggest SF specialty wine merchant, K&L, does not have a single bottle of NY wine. And, as I've said, you don't see them on wine lists at top restaurants - restaurants that try to have great wines from everywhere.

I'm not saying that there isn't any "wines of distinct quality". I am saying that price combined with quality of the best wines has not caused sales outside of the home market of these wines. And, that does say something. Incidentally, the Okanagan Valley has this same problem. (The wines are only slightly easier than NY's to find outside of BC.)

Perhaps soon a NY winery (or three) will emerge from the pack and bring attention for excellence.

[Victoria]

There are some very good vineyards out on Long Island. I'm a local here and did not realize that their wine is not more main stream until I found this.