Of all the Finger Lakes wines that I review every year, those from Dr. Konstantin Frank are among my favorites. Why? Well, for one, the whites are consistently good, especially the aromatic whit varieties like riesling and Gewürztraminer. For another, these are often the only quality New York wines that my friends and family back in Pittsburgh have any chance of seeing in their local, state-run liquor stores.
Much like the other wine regions of New York, the Finger Lakes enjoyed a long, hot growing season in 2007 and that is apparent in many of the wines I've tasted from the vintage, in both good and bad ways. The good comes through in ripe flavors (in both reds and whites). The bad? Well, some whites have lacked that electric acidity that makes the region's riesling so enchanting.
This Dr. Konstantin Frank 2007 Dry Riesling ($18) almost doesn't seem like it's from 2007. The nose, rather than being overtly fruity, is dominated by summery floral aromas with other scents of lime zest, minerals, ginger and something almost almond-like.
Light bodied, clean and fresh, the palate features fresh lime and mineral flavors with crisp pear in the background. Despite its youth, this wine even shows a bit of that classic petrol leading into a lengthy finish of citrus, apple and minerals. The acidity isn't quite where it might be in cooler years, but there is enough to keep it lively.
This isn't a riesling for everyone. There are plenty of people who prefer more luscious fruit. More pear or even peach. But for me, this is a terrific example of Finger Lakes riesling.
Producer: Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars
AVA: Finger Lakes
Rating: 3.5 out of 5 | Very good-to-Delicious)