Bedell Cellars 2007 Taste White

Chardonnay is the most-planted white grape on Long Island, covering around 30% of local vineyard land. That's a lot of chardonnay, relative to the white grape that I think holds the most potential for the region, sauvignon blanc, which covers far less than 5%.  That's also a lot of mediocre chardonnay. A lot of chardonnay that (usually) isn't going to do much more than fill the white wine columns on tasting room sheets.

Don't get wrong, there are some outstanding, well-made Long Island chardonnays -- made both with and without barrels -- but Long Island is never going to be known for its chardonnay. The reds will always be top of mind and I think other white varieties -- sauvignon blanc and even riesling -- are already deserving of more attention than most local chardonnay.

One way that some local wineries have started to leverage their chardonnay plantings, but still make distinctive, classy wines, is through blending, and this Bedell Cellars 2007 "TASTE" White ($30) is a fine example. It captures the essence of Long Island white wine and also proves that the whole really can be greater than the sum of the parts.

Made with 59% chardonnay, 16% sauvignon blanc, 14% viognier and 11% Gewürztraminer, this elegant, lively white wine is  reminiscent of spring on the nose, with aromas of white flowers, sweet and savory herbs, fresh grapefruit and lemon zest.

The palate is seamless and medium bodied, with flavors that move from bright lemon and grapefruit, to fresh-cut flowers, grass and hay, to melon and -- as it warms a bit -- subtle Gewurzt-driven spice.  A interesting vanilla cream component emerges as the wine moves from chilled to room temperature as well. The mouthfeel is faintly oily on the mid-palate but still lively with a tingle of acidity on a long, melony finish.

Producer: Bedell Cellars
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
Price: $30
Rating:    (3.5 out of 5 | Very good-to-Delicious)

(Rating System)

Comments

[john witherspoon]

sounds really nice man, but 30 smackers is getting up there for white wine. It does sound delicious though.

cheers

[Lenn]

John: It's hard to argue with your comment. It's a delicious wine but certainly not something I can afford to drink every day.

But, I don't think they'd price this wine there if they couldn't sell it there, so it's hard to say much.

It is a delicious wine though. I really liked it.

[Bryan]

What are you tasting in the chardonnays that you leads you to think L.I. won't be known for them?

I agree that the Sauvignon Blancs are more memorable and worthy of the relatively high price being asked for some LI whites.

[Lenn Thompson]

Bryan: It's not so much what I'm tasting. As I said, some of them are very very good. The issue is the inconsistency quality and varying style across the Island.

Some winemaker eschew oak completely. Others do 10-40%. Some halt ML completely. Some let it run partially. Others do full ML.

It's also about their relative quality compared to the cabernet franc, merlot and even sauvignon blanc. I love a Long Island stainless steel chard as much as anyone, but are they that much better than similar style wines from other regions? I'm not so sure.

At the end of the day, there is so much chardonnay here probably because it can grow most anywhere it seems. It's a safe grape to grow and make wine from and sell to the chardonnay-loving public. The steel-fermented versions appeal to the Anything But Chardonnay crowd.

I do know that right now there is more demand for sauvignon blanc fruit than there are acres planted. I know at least two wineries who wanted to buy some sauv blanc this year but were unable to buy any.