New York Cork Report

Storm Chasing in Niagara Wine Country

 

By Bryan Calandrelli, Niagara Correspondent

As if grape growing in true cool climate areas wasn’t hard enough with extreme winter temperatures, early and late frost dangers and a constant battle with humidity, time after time severe storms add to the risk with hail outbreaks that can spoil an otherwise great vintage.

The vineyard pictured above is owned by Schulze Vineyards & Winery in Burt, NY. These very same vines took a nasty hit from hail last year and left grower Martin Schulze with his share of damaged fruit. Martin, who came over from Germany as a child, has been tending to vineyards here for over thirty years. He’s as meticulous as anyone I’ve met and he consistently grows clean fruit even in the toughest years, but last year nature had other plans for his crop.

The storm cell in this photo luckily passed to the south of his vineyards last week. There was a clear signature of a hail within these clouds as portions of them had that green glowing color that usually indicates frozen water.

As much as I love to witness severe weather, I was crossing my fingers that our local vineyards escaped any significant hail. Luckily I haven’t heard of any damage.

Southern Tier unearthly Imperial India Pale Ale

By Kevin Burns, Beer Columnist

Southern Tier's unearthly is an Imperial India Pale Ale that checks in at a huge 11% ABV. Southern Tier states that unearthly offers and "an uninhibited infusion of hops."

unearthly poured a semi-hazy, golden-orange color with almost no head.

The aroma has some really ripe fruit, with a huge blast of hops. The body is creamy and smooth, with a decent amount of malt and strong sweetness from fruity esters. The hops start to show through in the middle and become stronger leading to an extremely hoppy finish that thoroughly dries out the palate.

Overall, this is a a very, very good beer. unearthly is a wonderfully balanced, excellent example of what an "Imperial" beer can and should be. The beer is smooth, has plenty of flavor and the alcohol is barely noticeable.

When pairing food with this beer, one needs to think big. The body and flavors in this body are huge so a dish with big, robust flavors is needed. My recommendation is any sort of Indian food with meat included. I would personally lean towards either green curry or spicy vindaloo with chicken.

The label reccomends that unearthly should be served at 42 degrees which is a little colder than most craft brews but is the perfect temperature for this beer. The beer started to become a little harsher as the temperature warmed and the flavors fell apart a little. Nonetheless, this is just a great beer from Southern Tier.

Producer: Southern Tier Brewing Company
ABV: 11%
Price: $7.99 (22 oz. Bottle)
Rating: (4 out of 5 | Delicious, Distinctive )

What We Drank (June 30, 2009)

I think this might be the most interesting edition of What We Drank so far. We've got big names, big wines and then wines of elegance and restraint. And for the first time, not a single New York wine.

From Bryan Calandrelli: Chateau Montelena 2004 Chardonnay

In today’s market place there’s a growing number of so-called celebrity wines. In this case the wine itself has become a celebrity thanks to “Bottle Shock” the movie. A friend of mine opened this 2004 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay from the Napa Valley recently and I was lucky enough to get a taste of a recent bottling of the wine that made history at the Judgment of Paris.
 
I got a nose full of butter and vanilla with a touch of green apple with a few swirls of the glass. Full bodied mouth-feel on this one, as it wasn’t shy in the flavor or texture department. While there were some memorable notes and flavors, they seemed layered. I didn’t find them to be as cohesive as you’d expect in a major league chardonnay. In fact it was similar to the movie, some memorable performances but overall not a blockbuster by any definition.

From Evan Dawson: Luca 2005 Malbec, Altos de Mendoza

Just for a moment, let's agree to unfairly overgeneralize, cool? I'm just about done with "value" Malbec from Argentina. "Value" is apparently Spanish for "obstreperous oak missile" or "offensively extracted." But that's where my Malbec dollars have been spent, and as a result, I have no good idea of what the personality of Malbec is when grown in Argentina.

You can now imagine my whelming -- nay, overwhelming -- sense of satisfaction in finding an Argentinian Malbec with character and verve. Granted, this bottle of Luca is $35, and it's a world away (literally and figuratively) from Auxerrois and Cot. But it's a new-world wine that mollifies its oak and allows rich fruit to unfold. On night one it was like adding a pinch of grilled sirloin to blackberry ganache. On night two it was like drinking a black forest cake. But the flavors were constantly evolving, rich but not garish, powerful but not burly. You know that guy who shakes your hand and goes in for the fake body blow? He makes you recoil instinctively as you anticipate the punch? I hate that guy, and that guy is found in a lot of new-world reds, but not this one. This wine, clocking in at 13.5 ABV, is a firm, sincere handshake. And that's appreciated.

From Sasha Smith: Paul Jaboulet Parallele 45 2008 Rosé

Saturday afternoon my husband smoked a pork shoulder and we invited a few friends over for Carolina-style pulled pork sandwiches. I wasn’t much in the mood for beer, so opted for a bottle of 2008 Paul Jaboulet Parallele 45 Rosé instead. It was the wine equivalent of watermelon: clean, refreshing, and somewhat neutral. The pork, a smoky, spicy delight, completely overwhelmed it.

Every summer I try to find to find the perfect go-to rosé (last year Mas de Gourgonnier was a favorite) and while I enjoyed the Parallele 45, I’m in the market for something with a bit more oomph.  A Garnacha, perhaps?

From Lenn Thompson:  Damien Coquelet 2007Chiroubles "Vielles Vignes"

Last week, Nena and I had a few friends over to taste six West Coast pinot noirs as a part of TasteLive. Most were good-to-great, for a few sips, but after that, they were too fleshy, and (some) a little too vanilla-y. Where was the elegance?

One wine left the flavor of Werther's Originals candy in my mouth. Not in a good way.

As we started to wind down with the pinots and I was pondering what I wanted to drink the rest of the evening, I opened this Chiroubles. And it was the first bottle emptied.

If you don't know where Chiroubles is, it is right next to Fleurie and Morgon, two of the better-known areas of Beaujolais. This $20 gamay is elegant and definitely Old World, showing restrained blackberry-cranberry fruit with violets, black peppercorns and an amazing undercurrent of gravel and minerals. The acidity is damn near perfect and the finish is long. I only have one bottle left (and supposedly only 35 cases made it to the United States). Every time I have a Beaujolais like this, I wonder why no one in New York is doing anything interesting with the gamay grape.

Q&A: Bob Madill, General Manager, Sheldrake Point Vineyard

By Lenn Thompson, Editor and Publisher
Today's Q&A subject is Bob Madill, general manager at Sheldrake Point Vineyard on Cayuga Lake in the Finger Lakes region of New York.

Bob was part of the team that founded Sheldrake Point in the spring of 1997 and he's a fellow tech marketeer, having spent over 20 years in international high tech marketing and sales, as well as work within the wine industry in Ontario, Canada.


What (and where) was the first bottle of wine you remember drinking?
In the late 1950s we moved from a remote British Columbia coastal town to Montreal.

There my parents purchased what become a summer property on the St. Lawrence River not far from the Ontario border. Late in June and early July, it became the habit of my mother to serve fresh, local Quebec strawberries with Mateus Rose at our frequent gatherings of friends and family. Fun, fresh and informal. Also quite delicious.

What event/bottle/etc made you decide that you wanted to be in the wine industry?
My move towards the wine industry was more of the gravitational pull of a love of physical work combined with curiosity and engagement with the rejection of the values evident in the computer industry after two decades.

I entered as an amateur seeking clearer, more transparent language for understanding and expressing what I was tasting and remain with that focus.

Which of your current wines is your favorite and why?
Why would one who loves color choose but one? At any given moment I have a half dozen wines open so that I might taste and reflect and discern. At one end of the spectrum I love our 2006 Reserve Riesling for its austere statement, linearity and precision. On the other, our 2008 Gewurztraminer for its blowzy, passionate expression of a vintage.

What has surprised you most about being a member of the Finger Lakes wine community?
That I have found my metier in the company of a few other like-minded souls.

Other than your own wines, what wine/beer/liquor most often fills your glass?
The one that I am offered by friends and circumstances. Although I confess a particular joy in a sound glass of Burgundy of either color.

Is there a 'classic' wine or wine and food pairing that you just can't make yourself enjoy?
I am not fond of oysters so Muscadet can be given short shrift. Unfair I know but there you are.

Wine enjoyment is about more than just the wine itself. Describe the combination of wine, locations, food, company, etc. that would make (or has made) for the ultimate wine-drinking experience.
There is nothing like the loquacious mayhem of a summer picnic with close friends to bring out the very best in serendipitous, anarchic explorations of wine, food and opinions. Step into the Luncheon of the Boating Party.

Shinn Estate Vineyards 2008 Rose

By Lenn Thompson, Editor and Publisher

This isn't another one of those "rose is making a comeback" pieces, but dry rose is one of the under-appreciated pleasures of cool climate wine regions. The natural acidity that cool evenings and long, slow growing seasons retain is key.

In the Finger Lakes, there are more dry roses (in addition to the sweet ones) being bottled every year, but here on Long Island, dry rose has been a part of many wine programs for years.

Sometimes, they are made by blending red and white grapes, but some of my favorites are made primarily with Long Islands signature (for now, anyway) red grape -- merlot. Shinn Estate Vineyards 2008 Rose ($16) is one such merlot-based wine.

Co-owner Barbara Shinn, who manages the winery's vineyard, grows a specific clone of merlot specifically for the production of this wine each year.

A light cherry red in the glass, the nose is fruity and savory at the same time with red cherry and strawberry fruit aromas accented by a sprinkling of dried oregano and hints of earthy, dried leaves.

Medium-light on the palate, this well-balanced summer sipper shows bright, clean red berry flavors with a minerally, earthy edge. The mid-palate is just a little creamy and the surprisingly long finish is dry, with nice palate-cleansing acidity.

Grape(s): 75% merlot, 25% cabernet franc
Producer: Shinn Estate Vineyards
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
Price: $16
Rating:  (3 out of 5 | Recommended)

(Ratings Guide

June 28: Jamesport Vineyards Wine, Beer and Oyster Festival

  If you read this blog, there's a good chance that you like local beer, wine and seafood. This Sunday, from noon to 5:30 p.m. Jamesport Vineyards will have all three (along with music from Reckoning) as a part of their first of three Wine, Beer and Oyster Festivals.

Admission is free and wines from Jamesport Vineyards, beer from Blue Point Brewery and oysters from local purveyors will be available for purchase.

Jamesport Vineyards is well known for its seafood-friendly sauvignon blanc,and Blue Point makes some terrific beers (I like their Hoptical Illusion a lot).

And remember, 10% of all sales on Jamesport's East End series of wines goes to the Southold Project in Aquaculture Training (SPAT) program, a program that teaches East End residents how to grow their own shellfish.

What We Drank (6/23/09)

This week's What We Drank is pretty diverse, with a couple New York wines, a classic chardonnay from Burgundy and one of least-flavorful beers in the world. Sadly that beer is my contribution.

From Bryan Calandrelli: Louis Jadot 1999 Le Montrachet

Having Old World wine geek friends has its benefits too these days. This is a bottle I would never have swooned over and it's a wine that my New World attention span wouldn't have recognized over any of the other of those Jadot selections on the shelf. It takes an educated eye to pick out this vineyard, Montrachet, and realize that its perhaps one of the most respected white wine vineyards in the world.

This was heavenly with tempting aromas of green apple and buttered toast. What made this wine so memorable had to be its seamless balance, weight and mouth-feel. I can only describe the texture as silk drapery in a weightless environment. Sounds silly, but this wine just felt perfect. Who knows when I'll get to taste another wine with such pedigree and worth.

From Evan Dawson: McGregor Vineyards 1991 Late Harvest Gewurztraminer

Some restaurants show real interest in the local wine scene. Some even carry a wide-ranging library. At the Village Tavern in Hammondsport, we enjoyed three Finger Lakes bottles that were more than a decade old: a '98 McGregor Black Russian, a '93 Dr. Frank semi-dry Riesling, and a '91 McGregor late-harvest Gewurztraminer.

The aged whites were nearly orange in color and, while on the way toward Oxidation Town, they were still obstinately showing their gorgeous aged qualities. We were loathe to even finish the Dr. Frank, as we didn't want to extinguish the beautiful wine created by winemaker Peter Bell. And when the general manager brought a bottle of the late-harvest Gewurztraminer -- on the house! -- we were gratified but harbored low expectations. Lo and behold, like the Riesling that preceded it, this bottle was still slaying. But the biggest surprise was the '98 Black Russian, which didn't even hint at rust-colored edges in the glass. It simply looked young. The Village Tavern wine list is one to be admired, and there will soon be a video post to further explain their philosophy.

From Jason Feulner: Heart & Hands Winery 2007 Brut Rose

Upon a visit to Heart and Hands Winery on Cayuga Lake, owner and winemaker Tom Higgins suggested to me that his 2007 Brut Rose (100% pinot noir) would pair well with fresh local strawberries and an Arbor Hill cabernet sauvignon chocolate sauce (which he sells in the tasting room). I purchased some strawberries down the road and brought all the ingredients home for a delightful dessert pairing to share with my wife.

The brut rose itself tasted of strawberry with strong honey notes and a bit of cherry, backed by refreshing acidity. The Arbor Hill chocolate wine sauce, also made in the Finger Lakes, was very good and certainly worth a try for those who like a bright chocloate accompaniment to their fruits or dessert.

From Sasha Smith: Beaux Frères 2006 "Beaux Frères Vineyard" Pinot Noir

After last week’s Jeremiah Weed episode, I wanted to class it up a bit this time around. Fortunately I was able to do so—and on someone else’s dime. (See, classy.)

On Saturday I helped a friend throw a BBQ to benefit a charity he started. He snuck a few choice bottles out of his cellar and we dipped into them throughout the afternoon. I’m not going to strain credulity here and say that the 2004 Kistler Pinot Noir plus potato salad represents a magical food wine pairing, or that the char of a Costco burger really brings out the smokiness of the 2006 Boekenhoutskloof Chocolate Block, an intense Rhone blend from the Western Cape. But I can say that all the wines were very, very good, particularly the 2002 Beaux Frères Pinot Noir Beaux Frères Vineyard, which I liked best of all: silky elegance and red fruit, with a lovely thread of acidity racing through it. And guess what? It didn’t taste half bad with a hot dog.

From Lenn Thompson: Michelob Ultra

For Father's Day, Nena bought me a ticket to attend what was supposed to be the final round of the 2009 U.S. Open on Sunday. That was exciting enough, but then I remembered that Long Island wines would be served at the tournament. Even better, I thought, I won't have to drink crappy beer or wine.

Unfortunately, those local wines (and other Long Island-grown ingredients) were not available to the average fan. I walked all over the course, from concession stand to concession stand, looking for them.

I have a friend who was lucky enough to be in a corporate tent. He got to drink the Bridge Vineyard wines. Obviously it was great to have the local wines served, but it sure would have been nice (and more in line with the spirit of Schummer's press conference) had the wines been available more widely. Sadly, I had to drink this crap all day.

Ithaca Excelsior! Series TEN

By Kevin Burns, Beer Columnist

Ithaca TEN is an "imperial American Extra Special Double Red Ale" that was created to celebrate the Ithaca Beer Company's 10th anniversary.  The beer was released in March of 2008 as part of the Excelsior! series and is described by the brewery as an "exploded version of CascaZilla".  In 2008 at TAP-NY, Ithaca TEN was awarded the gold medal of the F.X. Matt Memorial Cup as the best beer in New York State.   

The bottle is labeled Batch# E!011.

TEN poured a light brown color with a small, pen-width, tan head. The nose had quite a bit of rich malt, with a decent amount of hops underneath and a few hints of alcohol. The body is heavy on dark malt up front with a real sweetness.  The body has great depth, and the dark fruits (figs, dates?) really steal the show. Like the nose, the alcohol is noticeable and grows more apparent as the beer warms. The hops show through in the finish, leading to a short, yet substantially dry finish. 

Overall, this is a nice imperial beer. It has a big flavor, but is not overly heavy. The body is bold but well balanced. This limited release is worth a try and has me eagerly awaiting Ithaca's ELEVEN. 

Producer: Ithaca Beer Company
ABV: 10.1%
Price: $12 (750mL Bottle)
Rating: (4 out of 5 | Delicious, Distinctive )

 

Video: Lemberger vs. Blaufrankisch -- Members of Finger Lakes Wine Community Chime In

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Correspondent

Following up on my earlier post today, here is some video where several in the Finger Lakes wine industry chime in with their thoughts on Lemberger vs. Blaufrankisch and the variety's future in the Finger Lakes.

What's In a Name? If It's Blaufrankisch, More Than You Think

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Correspondent

When you meet Heron Hill's winemaker, do not make the mistake of calling him "Tom." That is not his name, and he'll correct you. Before I spoke recently with Thomas Laszlo, I was warned by a writer friend not to call him by the wrong name. "He's pretty serious about it," I was warned.

To Thomas' credit, he acknowledges being a little edgy about his name.

"My mother was very particular with names. She always pushed for Thomas, so it's Thomas!" he says with a subtle laugh.

He's just as particular with names as his mother, and it extends into his winemaking. On July 1st, Heron Hill will release the first Blaufrankisch from the Finger Lakes. Of course, Blaufrankisch has been grown and bottled before, but only under the name "Lemberger." Laszlo scrapped Lemberger in favor of Blaufrankisch and now Heron Hill managers are hoping the new name results in big sales. (Note that Keuka Spring Vineyards will also be using Blaufrankisch going forward).

"Even with my neighbor, just the mention of 'Lemberger' brought associations with Limberger cheese," Laszlo explains. "That's obviously not a good thing. Most of the plantings around the world carry the name 'Blaufrankisch,' but otherwise it's not 'Lemberger,' it's 'Limberger,' exactly like the cheese. Only in the United States is it called 'Lemberger.' The TTB consciously changed the I to an E to make it more user-friendly, but I don't think they went far enough. They were misguided from the start, and that mistake is a big reason why it's not more widely planted in this country."

Beyond the unfortunate comparison to cheese, Laszlo has other reasons for dumping Lemberger. "Blaufrankisch has more standing in cultural wine circles," he says confidently. Then he makes an assertion that is bound to raise some eyebrows at Dr. Frank, or Fox Run, or Anthony Road, or the other producers that make Lemberger. "It's made in the Finger Lakes as Lemberger, but I don't think there's a following for Lemberger at all. There's no risk in going with a different name because it hasn't caught on at all."

Regardless of what it's called, the wine has to be good to convince consumers to buy it -- especially for $35 a bottle, which is the aggressive price that Heron Hill has set for the 2007 Reserve Blaufrankisch.

"In cooler years, Blaufrankisch comes off a lot like Pinot Noir," Laszlo says. "In warmer years like 2007 and 2008 it's much more like a Syrah with a Burgundian profile. But even in tough years it never really shows the green or herbaceous notes that you'll find in other varieties. And it has a very attractive, dark color."

Laszlo vehemently disagrees with those who have compared Blaufrankisch to Zinfandel. He believes that eventually, the Finger Lakes will hold Blaufrankisch up side-by-side with Riesling as the most suitable varieties for the region. And he says unlike many other red vinifera, Blaufrankisch will not keep winegrowers awake late into the bitterly cold winter nights.

"It's much more winter-resistant, and it's just not prone to rot like other varieties," he says, adding that the 2007 Blaufrankisch -- sourced from the highly regarded Hobbit Hollow Vineyard on Skaneatles Lake -- checked in at four tons per acre, but he's comfortable with as much as five tons per acre.

Laszlo's version of Blaufrankisch won't be shy with oak -- he performed extensive oak aging with "quite a bit of new oak for 18 months, giving it a bit of the Cabernet Sauvignon treatment," he explains. The winemaker is urging consumers to drink it now or hold it for as long as 10 years. "This wine definitely has a 10-year window. I'm not going with the kind of winemaking that others tend to do that leads to a bunch of awards but then the wine has problems in just a few years. You'll be able to hold onto this one."

That's a bold statement, but then again, that's Tom Laszlo. Pardon me, that's Thomas Laszlo.

The LENNDEVOURS Tasting Table (June 21, 2009)

I've been a bit slow tasting through samples of late, but here are a few wines that I have tasted but will not receive full published reviews. All five are varietal chardonnay, and while some are well made, none was particularly interesting or inspiring.

Brooklyn Oenology 2007 Chardonnay ($17): Nose of pineapple, peach, vanilla and light citrus. 80% ML retains fresh acidity to with mango, pineapple, lemon and toasted nuts. Light oak touch and creamy vanilla on mid-palate. Decent finish. Favorite of the family members I tasted with. Rating: (3 out of 5 | Recommended)



Pellegrini Vineyards East End Selection 2007 Chardonnay ($15): Thought this used to be mostly steel, but significant oak on a toasty, vanilla-inflected nose with roasted apples, pear and a little raw oak. Medium body with good tree fruit up front. Vanilla and oak come and stay through the oaky, short finish. Only okay acid. Rating: (1.5 out of 5 | Not Recommended-to-Average)



Channing Daughters Winery 2007 Brick Kiln Chardonnay ($20): Ripe pear and apple aromas are gently accented by vanilla and spice notes. Nice spiced pear flavors with delicate oak and a silky, lively mouthfeel. My favorite of the tasting. Rating: (3 out of 5 | Recommended)




Lakewood Vineyards 2007 Chardonnay ($13): New York oak barrels used. Nose is lightly floral with distinct burnt sugar aromas with melon, pear and oak. Lively acidity and medium body but too much oak. Overwhelms the pear and melon. Caramel on the end of the medium-length finish. Rating: (2 out of 5 | Average)



Pellegrini Vineyards 2006 Chardonnay ($18): Pineapple, toasted almond and overripe pear on the nose. Fuller bodied with lush, tropical fruit with a nutty back note. Good, but not great acid. Longish finish. Rating:  (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)

 
 

Snapshot from Niagara Wine Country

 

By Bryan Calandrelli, Niagara Escarpment Correspondent

I took this photo while heading towards Lewiston to pick up a picnic table for the farm. There are hundreds of scenes like this up here and I am finding new ones everyday. The tree line above is the top of the Niagara Escarpment and the vineyards just below represent the potential of this area to me.

I’ve never noticed this vineyard before, and I couldn’t even tell you what road to take to get up there. From what I can tell these are native vines, probably Niagara, growing in what would be prime vinifera vineyard real estate across the border. There are plenty of these sites on the bench of the escarpment that can be replanted with pinot noir, riesling, chardonnay or even the Bordeaux varieties.

Video: Anthony Road Wine Co: Noble Rot, High Brix Levels Present in 2008 Dessert Wines

By Melissa Dobson, Finger Lakes News Correspondent

Last Saturday, Rich and I attended the 7th Annual Martini-Reinhardt Selection Grazing Gala at Anthony Road Wine Company. From our first trip to visit the winery last fall, the crisp, clean lineup of wines and the welcoming personalities behind them pushed them to our list of favorites here in the Finger Lakes. That's no small feat considering that we have encountered a good amount of nice wines and friendly people along the way.

What continues to impress me is the laser-sharp focus and vision of winemaker Johannes Reinhardt.  Johannes is soft-spoken with an enchanting way about him that draws you in. Both he and his wife, Imelda have a talent for making you feel as though you're the only person in the room when they're speaking with you. Their passion for each other's happiness as well as for their shared belief in the need to push for consistent, quality-focused wines in the Finger Lakes region is evident and admirable.

The M-RS Grazing Gala featured hors d'oeuvres and small plates prepared by Red Newt Bistro's Deb Whiting with each plate paired with a select Anthony Road wine. 

Just prior to the dessert course, owner Ann Martini asked Johannes to speak to attendees about conditions and winemaking details of the 2008 dessert wines.  As I mentioned in this week's "What We Drank" post, they will be available in bottle within the next 2-3 months.

Shinn Estate Vineyards in the New York Times

By Lenn Thompson, Editor and Publisher

Eric Asimov, chief wine critic for New York Times, has long been interested in Long Island wine, particularly Long Island merlot. He has previously said that Long Island makes some of the best merlot in America.

In his column this week, he writes about a recent visit to Shinn Estate Vineyards in Mattituck, NY. It's a great piece that I think accurately depicts the winery's place in the Long Island wine world. It will come as no surprise to many of my fellow wine bloggers (the ones who came to TasteCamp anyway) that one of the wines Eric singled out for mention was the 2007 cabernet franc. He also mentions the 2007 cabernet sauvignon and the 2008 Coalesence, which I liked but didn't love.

Perhaps even more interesting was Eric's companion blog post about Long Island merlot, a grape that underwhelmed some during TasteCamp. In the post, he mentions many of the producers I'd put at the top of the heap (and there is a heap of merlot grown and made out here), but two things he said struck me as worthy of mention here:

"...the North Fork of Long Island is one of the few places in this country that merlot makes a wine of distinctive character."

It's funny, as I read and re-read this line, I came to realize that I probably can't argue for or against this statement. Obviously I enjoy many Long Island merlots, but the fact is, I drink a lot of them, and frequently, and drink very little merlot from other regions in the United States. I can say that I tend to prefer the local wines and do notice characteristics that seem uniquely Long Island, but I don't think I've tasted enough other regions to be sure. Still, Eric's comments fly in the face of what some have said.

"The history of Long Island winemaking is still far too brief to know exactly what will flourish best there. For now, the more experimentation, the better."

This just made me smile when I read it. And not because Eric Fry, the winemaker and quote machine from The Lenz Winery is quoted right after saying "I’m being very vocal that I don’t want Long Island to specialize. The market will tell us what doesn’t work. We already know that zinfandel doesn’t work. For now, let’s have diversity! It’s more fun.’’

No, I smiled because if you read through the quick interviews I did with TasteCamp attendees, particularly the responses to the question "What grape or variety, in general, impressed you the most?" you'll see a few different answers, which certainly supports the idea of diversity. Everything from merlot, to cab franc to chenin blanc to sauvignon blanc to petit verdot was called out by the bloggers. I'd probably throw malbec into the fray as well, although we didn't taste any during TasteCamp.

One grape that was NOT mentioned by bloggers or by Eric Asimov though was chardonnay. Stay tuned for more on that though. I'm working on a post that will explore that grows-anywhere grape.

Wine Blogging Wednesday #59 Announced: WBW #59: An Homage to Kushi no Kami

The 59th edition of Wine Blogging Wednesday, hosted by The Passionate Foodie, is an homage to Kushi no Kami.

Not sure what that is? I have no idea what it is that's why it's just the kind of WBW theme that inspired the event in the first place -- a forced exploration of a region or type of wine that is new or unknown.

So who or what is Kushi no Kami? Turns out that it's an ancient name for the god of Saké.

I've had Saké exactly once in my life and it was cheap, warm stuff at a Japanese restaurant once. It tasted sort of like hot vodka to me without the alcohol burn. Not exactly a ringing endorsement.

But, I know that our host is a Saké-loving guy, with tons of knowledge on the subject, but he's making it easy for the newbies:

For this theme, all you have to do is to conduct your own kikishuSaké tasting”) by selecting any Saké and reviewing it. You will earn bonus points if you review multiple Sakés of different styles or types. For example, you could compare a Ginjo to a Daiginjo or a Honjozo to a Junmai. You will also earn bonus points for pairing Saké with food.

This is all going to go down on July 8, so get your Saké ready.

Read Richard's full post to get all the details and for links to more information on Saké.

What We Drank (6/16/09)

This week,we have four contributions to What We Drank, including the first from Sasha Smith. I wanted to mention something this week, badly, but there wasn't anything that I drank over the weekend that inspired me enough, sadly. More on that later this week I think.

 From Bryan Calandrelli: Freedom Run Winery Celebration Series Rosé

This weekend called for a simple, easy to drink wine that I could open up for my family at the picnic table. I didn't need to look any further than my fridge thanks to this Freedom Run Celebration Series Rosé. Now I know you may be thinking that just I'm plugging another local wine, but this one goes well beyond that obvious connection.

Working in the cellar at Freedom Run, I designed this wine specifically for my wedding favors. By that I mean blend, color and sweetness. The favor was a 375ml with a palm tree (we got married in Key West) and the wedding date. The blend, 93% Cayuga and 7% Cab Franc, with a residual sugar of 1.5%, turned out to be a big hit with everyone in Key West, so much so that I convinced the winery to bottle 100 cases of it and call it a dry rose.

Light and refreshing with aromas of strawberry and watermelon, this wine shows a delicate balance of acidity and sweetness. Luckily the Cayuga is quite neutral and makes a great base for the Cab Franc fruit to lead the way. While it\'s not the most complex rosé, nor will it satisfy the terroirists of the wine world, it can be a perfect addition to any summer meal.

From Evan Dawson: Marc Hebrart NV French Champagne - Brut Rose

I try to resist marketing contrivances, but I am apparently no match for the tidal wave of Rose that is racing across the Finger Lakes. In that spirit, I tried a brut rose -- but wanted to see how a French Champagne would fare. My wife opened this (rather expensive) bottle this weekend. It's a one-note effort: Like drinking a strawberry, it's fresh at first before eroding into a bit of Windex and musty flavors.

 

In retrospect I wish we would have opened this alongside a Finger Lakes sparkling rose. Heart & Hands already makes one, and I'd like to know if others are doing the same. If we see more sparkling rose locally, it will truly be a sign that Finger Lakes winemakers see the world through rose-colored glasses.

From Melissa Dobson: Anthony Road Wine Company 2008 Martini-Reinhardt Select Vignoles TBA

This past Saturday, Rich and I attended the 7th Annual Martini-Reinhardt Selection Grazing Gala at Anthony Road Wine Company. I had a difficult time choosing one of the featured Martini-Reinhardt Selection wines as my weekend stand-out, but the 2008 M-RS Vignoles TBA edged out the pack because of the scrumptious dessert pairing from Deb Whiting of Red Newt Bistro, who prepared the food pairings for the gala. Deb presented the 2008 M-RS Vignoles TBA with an orange curd mousse topped with candied orange peel that was light and elegant, showcasing creamy bright citrusy heaven. 

Winemaker Johannes Reinhardt explained that the 2008 dessert wine grapes encountered a "tough birth" but this traditional TBA was effected by noble rot at over 50%, cool room stored, sorted for one week and foot macerated.  The result is a full-bodied, silky dessert wine with citrus and apricot "showing its muscles" but playing well with the orange curd mousse. This and the 2008 M-RS Riesling Trockenbeeren and 2008 M-RS Riesling Berry Selection dessert wines are not in bottle yet, but will be within the next 2-3 months.

From Sasha Smith: Flag Day Punch

In honor of Flag Day and our third anniversary, my husband and I invited over 30 friends for a cookout. Because we're of the mind that no party is complete without a signature drink, we came up with this punch. Save for one ingredient, it's pretty low-rent...but it's also pretty delicious.

This concoction is sure to please anyone who appreciates a whiskey sour. Here's the recipe, such as it is: place about 2 cups of frozen black currants, 6 cups of water and 1/2 to 3/4 cup of sugar in a saucepan and bring to a boil. (We used frozen currants from this farm in Staatsburg, New York.) Lower to a simmer and cook until the liquid reduces by more than half and becomes syrupy. (Around an hour and a half.) Strain. Fill a 4-gallon jar with five limes, thinly sliced. Add four cans of frozen pink lemonade from concentrate as well as however much water it calls for on the canisters, minus a cup or two. (You'll be adding ice to the jar and don't want the mixture to get too diluted.) Pour in the black currant syrup and add several trays of ice. Serve alongside a bottle of Jeremiah Weed bourbon liqueur. That's right, bourbon liqueur. If you can't find any, Jack Daniels will do, but there's something about the sweet, boozy kick of a $16 bottle of Jeremiah Weed that hits the spot here. Not a drink to serve to your boss, your in-laws, or anyone else you're trying to impress, but a delightful beverage to enjoy among friends.

 

Paumanok Vineyards Protecting Consumers Against Counterfeit Wines

By Lenn Thompson, Editor and Publisher

Today, Paumanok Vineyards and Applied DNA Sciences announced a partnership created with the goal of protecting consumers against the growing problem of counterfeit wines.

From the press release:

"Counterfeiting is a problem known to have a significant impact in the wine and spirits trade," said Applied DNA Sciences CEO James Hayward. “We are delighted to be working with Paumanok to ensure that their products continue to be enjoyed and valued by retailers and consumers.”

"Paumanok, wines are highly valued around the country due to high demand and limited availability," said Charles Massoud, Proprietor, Paumanok. "The problem of counterfeiting has become more prolific worldwide. Authenticity definitely matters and our new wines will have a unique label that can be authenticated. We are proactively doing everything we can to ensure, from vine to bottle, that the Paumanok name represents exceptional quality."

The Massoud family feels that "guaranteeing quality wines helps small wineries to be competitive in today’s market."

They've designed new labels, which include Applied DNA Sciences botanical SigNature DNA markers. These labels will initially be used for the launch of Paumanok's newly released 2008 Late Harvest Riesling, 2007 Tuthills Lane Vineyard Merlot (due out in late 2009) and 2007 Apollo Drive Vineyard Petit Verdot (due out in 2010). Apparently, SigNature DNA is a botanical mark that can be added to ink and used to authenticate products in a unique manner that essentially cannot be copied. Maybe a scientist out there can tell me a bit more about it?

I emailed with Charles this morning about this, asking him if they've had to deal any instances of counterfeit Paumanok Vineyards wines. He told me "While we have not had, to our knowledge, such an incident, there have been, as you know, many documented instances of such fraud. We have used Signature DNA on our most expensive wines for now, but eventually, because it is a non-intrusive authentication device, we would like to include it in all our labels. It is an additional measure to protect the consumer and our brand. And given that Applied DNA is another Suffolk County-based business, we liked the idea of being with them at the forefront of innovation."

Paumanok was the first local winery to convert part of their bottling to screwcap closures (others have since invested in the equipment). Maybe they'll be the first again with this technology, though I'm not sure that many local wineries consider fraud a problem.

They probably wish there wines were in enough demand that that were the case.

Olde Saratoga IPA

By Kevin Burns, Beer Columnist

While debating what beer I should review for my ignaugural LENNDEVOURS post, I decided to combine Lenn's love of India Pale Ales and my location in Albany, NY.

With that in mind, I came up with the recently released IPA from the Olde Saratoga Brewing Company. Olde Saratoga may be best known for all of the contract brewing that they do for both local and out-of-state breweries, but they produce their own line of tasty brews.   

The Olde Saratoga Brewing Company IPA pours a clear, orange copperish color with a thumb-width white head. 

The nose offers up a strong blast of hops with a little caramel malt sweetness underneath. The first couple of sips reveal a malty taste with a decent amount of the sweetness from the nose returning. 

Hops start to make their trademark appearance in the middle of the body and grow more apparent as they lead to a really dry finish that lingers for quite a bit on the palate. 

Overall, this is a nice, solid, really dry, big hopped IPA. There is a big backbone and the body is fairly heavy which is a trademark of those higher ABV IPAs. This is a decent stand alone beer, but would be best with a hearty, spicy dish that can stand up to the beer. 

Producer: Olde Saratoga Brewing Company
ABV: 7%
Price: $2.15 (12 oz. Bottle)
Rating:  (3 out of 5 | Recommended)

(Ratings Guide)

Shinn Estate Vineyards 2005 Nine Barrel Merlot

By Lenn Thompson, Editor and Publisher

As you've read here and elsewhere, to tell the story of the 2005 vintage is really to tell two separate tales -- one before the October deluge and one after.

That deluge lasted eight days and dumped as many as 20 inches of rain on some vineyards. Some wineries weren't willing to risk waiting, harvesting their reds before the rains hit. One even stopped picking chardonnay, leaving it to the elements, to pick reds. 

The before-or-after decision wasn't a simple one, nor was it one-dimensional. If you waited until after the rains, how long did you wait? How much of your crop was rendered useless due to berry splitting?

2005 could have been a banner year, but it ended up being an inconsistent one from producer to producer.

The merlot (85%), petit verdot, cabernet franc and malbec that went into this Shinn Estate Vineyards Nine Barrels Merlot ($43) after the rains, and they clearly made good decisions along the way.

The nose is expressive, showing rich, intense blackberry and blueberry fruit with Thai basil, violet and subtle toasty vanilla accents. 

On the medium-bodied palate, the fruit is ripe, but restrained, with dark fruit flavors (blackberry, blueberry and a little plum) with more Thai basi/anise character along with sweet, minty herbs. The finish is medium-long with blueberries and a lightly earthy note at the very end.

Ripe, well-incorporated tannins of medium intensity make this wine approachable today, but short-term (3-5 years) development is easy to predict.

Only 225 cases were made (9 French oal barrels, 4 of which were new).

NOTE: David Page, co-owner of Shinn Estate Vineyards has announced (via Twitter) that anyone mentioning this LENNDEVOURS review gets a 20% discount on purchases of this wine.

Producer: Shinn Estate Vineyards
Price: $43*
ABV: 12.8%
Rating: (3.5 out of 5 | Very good-to-Delicious)

(Ratings Guide)

Notes on Ravines and Wolffer at I Drink NY Astor Place Event

By Sasha Smith, New York City Correspondent
Photo by Sasha Smith

A few weeks ago I attended the first annual Winebow "I Drink New York" event at Astor Wines featuring Ravines Wine Cellars, Wolffer Estate Vineyards and Millbrook Vineyards. I focused on Ravines, which I knew little about (aside from the fact that Lenn's a fan) and Wolffer.

A brief dispatch:

A good wine is like a good thriller: it should hold your attention throughout and finish with a surprise. The Ravines Wine Cellars 2007 Dry Riesling fulfilled both criteria. The wine has a mineral and citrus fruit purity that’s really compelling, and instead of falling off a bit on the back palate and the finish (something that I’ve noticed often in lesser-quality New York rieslings), it retains this intensity throughout.

The Ravines Wine Cellars 2006 Keuka Village White, made from Cayuga White and Vignoles, is the best hybrid I’ve ever had. Granted, I don’t drink them very much and even really good hybrid wines leave me a little cold, but this one was simple (in a good way), clean, and refreshing. A picnic wine if there ever were one.

I wasn’t a big fan of the pinot noir. A little too green for my taste, and with none of the silkiness that makes Pinot Noir what it is.

The Ravines Wine Cellars 2006 Cabernet Franc had vibrant red fruit and hit an earthy, mushroomy note that I loved. Winemaker Morten Hallgren told me that they pick cab franc as late as November. Whether or not you like this very cool climate style of wine, you have to respect that kind of patience and fortitude.

Morten and his wife Lisa (pictured here) could not have been kinder, or better ambassadors for their wine.

I also had the opportunity to meet Roman Roth, probably the closest thing Long Island has to a celebrity winemaker. Given his reputation, I was expecting him to be a bit stand-offish, but nothing could have been further from the truth.

We chatted about a sparkling rosé they’ll release in time for the holidays this year and he let me linger over a glass of their Wolffer Estate 2007 Late Harvest Chardonnay. With ripe apricot, peach and honey flavors, the wine has a finish that seems to last forever –- or, as Roman quaintly put it, one would need the neck of a giraffe to fully savor it.

Video: Back In the Hunt: New Winemaker Bridges Generations

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Correspondent

I had the opportunity to visit with the new winemaker of Hunt Country Vineyards near Keuka Lake: Jonathan Hunt, son of owners Art and Joyce Hunt. The Hunts declined to say much about the departure of winemaker Chris Wirth, who left the operation last week. "We appreciate Chris' efforts," Art said. "But we've been looking for a way to bring new energy to the winery. Jon has dreamed about this job, and we think it's time."

In the interview, Jonathan - along with his wife, Caroline, and his father, Art - explain the following, which is sure to generate some discussion:

• Why the Hunts don't believe biodynamic winemaking is realistic in the Finger Lakes and but what they're doing to become more sustainable
• Which variety is most exciting to Jonathan (it's not riesling)
• Why Jon and Art are often confused for twins

Jonathan is the sixth generation of Hunts to work the land, and his background took him through Cornell, to California, to New Zealand.  

With the help of my supremely talented photographer wife, I'm still learning the ropes of the new Flip cam. I promise the efforts will continue to improve.

In the meantime, I hope you'll check out the video and tell us: Do you agree with the Hunts' assessment of sustainable and biodynamic winemaking? What do you think of Jonathan's favorite varietyl?

Note: Make sure that you have the volume turned up on your computer so you can hear the audio better.

Video: Fixin' a Leaky Barrel at Red Newt Cellars

The fine folks at Red Newt Cellars on Seneca Lake have a video blog series that they call NooTTooB that is often very funny and usually educational to boot. 

In this video, Tom Higgins, winemaker and co-owner of Heart & Hands Wine Company helps Red Newt's assistant  winemaker, Brandon Seager, fix a leaky barrel. They even make a little dough in the process.

Local with Local (LI): Channing Daughters Winery 2007 Tocai Friulano with Prosciutto-Wrapped, Lobster-Stuffed Monkfish

For this month's Long Island "Local with Local" I asked Chef Doug Gulija of The Plaza Cafe in Southampton, NY to create a dish he'd serve with Channing Daughters Winery's 2007 Tocai Friulano, which actually was on his wine list until he ran out a few weeks ago.

Chef Doug, ever the seafood guru, has put together this recipe for local monkfish that he stuffs with lobster and wraps with prosciutto.

Ingredients:

2 large Monkfish Tails, skinned
Lobster Tail, blanched, split from 1 chix lobster
3-4 ounces Prosciutto, very thinly sliced
3-4 large spinach leaves, blanched
Wondra Flour, as needed

Method:

1. Butterfly the monkfish tails
2. Lay spinach down the center of one monkfish tail 
3. Split lobster tail lengthwise and lay atop spinach and top with remaining spinach
4. Top with second monkfish tail inverting tail and head end
5. Tightly wrap monkfish with plastic wrap and twist the ends to secure tightly
6. Let rest in refrigerator for an hour or so
7. Remove monkfish from refrigerator, season with salt and pepper, and lightly dust with wondra flour
8. Sear monkfish tail until golden on all sides; let rest
9. Wrap monkfish tail with Prosciutto and finish in a 350-degree oven for 10-15 minutes
10. Slice monkfish tail into medallions
11. Serve atop a pea risotto and finish with lobster sauce
12. Garnish with lobster claw and knuckle meat

Some Long Island Wine News and Notes (6/11/09)

My ADD-infected mind has gotten away from doing Monday morning wrap-ups of New York wine news that happened the previous week, but there are several things going on here on Long Island that are worth of mention.

Maybe this will get me back to doing this every Monday? Who knows, but for now:

• First, I'm happy to tell you about the release of Jane Starwood's book, Long Island Wine Country: Award-Winning Vineyards of the North Fork and the Hamptons. Jane is the editor of the Long Island Wine Press (a magazine put out by the Long Island Wine Council) and has been writing about Long Island wine for many years. Jane and I have only met once or twice in person, but we've emailed several times beyond that and she is a thoughtful proponent of Long Island wine. I haven't read the book cover to covet yet, but I've flipped through it at several tasting rooms. The photography, by Bruce Curtis, is one of the highlights.

• Next up are some congratulations to Jim Waters, winemaker and co-owner of Waters Crest Winery for winning a platinum medal for his Waters Crest Winery 2006 Private Reserve Cabernet Franc. He also won a gold medal for his Waters Crest Winery 2007 Night Watch dessert wine.

• Howard Goldberg, who covers Long Island for the New York Times, wrote about some current releases from The Lenz Winery this week, focusing on the newly released Lenz 2002 Estate Merlot. If it's anything like the 2001, it is a tremendous value.

This second item begs the question of whether or not you (my readers) want to hear about awards, medals, etc. that New York wineries win. Sometimes it seems that most everyone wins something somewhere at some point, so I tend to not focus on them, BUT, if you tell me you want to know, I'll be happy to post results more often.

Leave a comment with a yay or nay.

Kevin Burns Joins the LENNDEVOURS Team

As often as I write about New York wines, I probably drink as much New York beer. But, when it comes to actual beer knowledge, I don't know a ton beyond my own tastes (I love hoppy IPAs and Saisons).

That's why I'm happy to announce today that the beer staff here on LENNDEVOURS has expanded by one with the addition of Kevin Burns.

Kevin owns The Foaming Head, a great resource for anyone interested in New York beers, and has worked hard to become an emerging voice on the craft beer scene. Kevin is also currently the bar manager at Aroma Thyme Bistro in the Hudson Valley. In 2009, Kevin was a judge on The Matthew Vassar Cup panel at TAP-NY where he helped to select the three best beers in the Hudson Valley.

Unfortunately, Kevin is a die-hard fan of the Cleveland Browns, which almost disqualified him from this position, and also roots for the New York Yankees and Syracuse Orange. He graduated SUNY Cortland in 2007 with a B.S. in Sports Management and a B.S. in Business Economics. He is currently working on his M.S. in Business Education at The College of Saint Rose in Albany, NY.

Kevin will be writing beer reviews and, hopefully, doing some food and beer pairing projects as well.