I had never heard of, let alone tasted, a wine made from the Rkatsiteli grape until I tasted a 2006 bottling from Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars, on the western shore of Keuka Lake.
I loved that wine and it's riesling-meets-gewruztraminer-meets-sauvignon blanc aromas and flavors, all wrapped up in great acidity and length. I still have a couple bottles in my cellar. I've heard that it ages beautifully, so we'll see.
And so, it was with much excitement that I got to try the Dr. Konstantin Frank 2007 Rkatsiteli ($18).
The nose is straight forward and fruity, showing ripe pineapple and guava fruit aromas with a subtle almost-buttery note. Medium-to-light bodied, the palate is dominated simple tropical fruit flavors like mango and pineapple. The acid balance is okay, but it's not particularly racy.
Overall, I'm left a bit disappointed. I know that fruit from a new, young vineyard was used for the first time in 2007, so maybe that's part of the change in style. The upside is that they have lowered the price quite as production has gone up.
Producer: Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars
AVA: Finger Lakes
Rating: (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)