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September 28, 2009


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Brilliant post, Bryan. Well done indeed.

I appreciate anyone willing to stand up and defend Chardonnay for what it is: One of the two greatest white grapes on earth. Period. End of story. They contrarians who spout on about Anything but Chardonnay need to work harder on exploring this most important subject.

Keeping company with Chablis, Montrachet, Meursault or Hanzell and Kistler, or Leeuwin Estate, or Jermann, or Kracher, or (insert stunning Chardonnay wine name here) is nothing to be ashamed of.

Let's face it - Chardonnay is a victim of its ubiquity only. Its popularity has spawned miserable imitations of classical Chardonnays, cartoonishly overoaked and exagerrated styles, poorly executed, low acid, and flabby examples too. We've all had them.

But when Chardonnay is "on", nothing touches it. Along with Riesling, there are few grapes at all that carry the terrior of the growing site to your senses, and still fewer that can be so carefully and beautifully molded by the hands of the winemaker. Along with Riesling, what ages as beautifully as Corton Charlemagne or a Valmur?

Chardonnay is a gift, especially when it is respected and understood and appreciated. Your last paragraph says it all, and very well.


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