2009 Harvest Update: Accepting the Challenge at Fox Run Vineyards

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor

If you get the sense that most Finger Lakes growers and winemakers would prefer never to see a vintage similar to this one again, you might also get the idea that Fox Run Vineyards winemaker Peter Bell enjoys the challenge. An answer man who is one of the most respected in the region, Bell is not trying to spin 2009 into 2007 or 2008.

"This is a challenge," he said this weekend as the winery continued its typical frantic harvest pace. "Sugars are a bit low and acids are a bit high. But if you want to talk about flavors, that's something else entirely."

Bell says the riesling, recently picked, came in with a slightly lower brix -- 19 -- than he's accustomed to seeing at Fox Run. "But we're much more interested in flavors, and this is some of the finest flavor development I've seen in riesling. It should be a special year for it."

Reds are more of an open question. "Whites are going to be very strong. With reds, we don't know yet. But I can easily say that we've seen much more problematic years for reds. This year might require some manipulation, but that's not necessarily unusual."

Indeed, some of the most enjoyable wines come from the best producers in challenging vintages. Bell says that the best vineyards in the Finger Lakes will have a strong advantage this year. "Those who made the right decisions all through the summer and into the fall are going to be in great position." 

Comments

[R. Olsen-Harbich]

I said earlier this season that this vintage will separate the "men from the boys" (as well as the "women from the girls") and that very good wines - both red and white - will be made by the most dedicated and knowledgeable people working in our cellars. But it's not just about winemaking...

What has gone unsaid in the discussions on this challenging vintage is the work of the vineyard managers and field workers. They are dedicated, experienced and passionate in their craft and without their hard work, we winemakers wouldn't have much to work with - especially in a year like this.

The fact that we can even discuss the potential quality of this vintage, at this time, after the weather conditions we have experienced, is a credit to their abilities. The best managers allow us the chance to make great wines in any year. They are the unsung heroes of every winery and we need to do a better job of discussing the work that they do to bring our fruit to the press pad.

So I'd like to raise my glass to vineyard managers and field crews all around the state and thank them for their blood, sweat and tears in bringing us the vintage of 2009.

[Rowland]

So first my question for you dudes is what is the minimum alchahol level for a wine to be stable.

and yea, chears to the field crew! ...

Dije anterior esta estación que esta vendimia separará el " hombres del boys" (así como el " mujeres del girls") y ese los vinos muy buenos - rojo y blanco - serán hechos por la gente más dedicada y más bien informada que trabaja en nuestros sótanos. Pero it' s no apenas sobre la vinificación… Qué ha ido unsaid en las discusiones sobre esta vendimia desafiadora es el trabajo de los encargados del viñedo y de los trabajadores de campo. Son dedicada, experimentada y apasionada en su arte y sin su trabajo duro, nosotros los winemakers wouldn' t tiene mucho a trabajar con - especialmente en un año como esto. El hecho de que poder incluso discutir la calidad potencial de esta vendimia, en este tiempo, después de que las condiciones atmosféricas que hemos experimentado, es un crédito a sus capacidades. Los mejores encargados no nos prohiben la ocasión de hacer los grandes vinos en cualquier año. Son los héroes olvidados de cada lagar y necesitamos hacer un mejor trabajo de discutir el trabajo que hacen para traer nuestra fruta al cojín de la prensa. Tan I' d tiene gusto de levantar mi vidrio a los encargados del viñedo y a los equipos del campo todo alrededor del estado y de agradecerlos por su sangre, sudor y rasgones en traernos la vendimia de 2009.