By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief
What a difference a few years can make.
I know why most New York wineries release reds within two years of vintage. Many producers sell out quickly and need to have something on the shelves to sell. Others need to move product through because they need the cash flow or lack long-term storage space.
This all means that most Long Island wines are being tasted in tasting rooms (and purchased and consumed) long before their peak.
A quick look around the Island shows that most wineries are pouring 2006 and 2007 reds now. One of the exceptions, however is Lenz Winery in Peconic, where they've just released their 2002 Estate Merlot and this Lenz Winery 2002 Old Vines Merlot ($55).
As wine lovers, we're lucky that Lenz owner Peter Carroll apparently shares winemaker Eric Fry's philosophy (paraphrased) that "American's don't know how to age wine, so we'll age it for them."
2002 remains, somehow, and underrated vintage for local reds, and this wine is drinking beautifully right now.
Black plum and cherry aromas are accented by leather, cured meat, dried herbs and subtle brown spice on an expressive, mature nose.
The palate is medium bodied with smooth, mature tannins that are well integrated across the palate framing dark fruit, leather, a little bit of that gaminess, licorice and a little earthy herbal character. The finish is long and ends with leather and spice.
It is a joy to drink wines like this, that prove that the drinking window for Long Island wines is far larger than some experts would have you believe.
I opened and tasted top-notch reds over the weekend. This was the one I reached for first (and second) when it was time for a glass or two with dinner and after.
Producer: Lenz Winery
AVA: North Fork of Long island
ABV: 13%
Price: $55*
Rating: 
(4 out of 5 | Delicious, Distinctive
)
So glad to see a positive review of Lenz as we really enjoyed our visit there this past summer (http://www.ericandleandra.com/wp/2009/07/09/long-island-wine-on-4th-of-july/).
Their latest wine club offering includes two bottles of the '02 Estate Merlot, so we are very much looking forward to making it back there at Christmas.
Posted by: leandra | November 16, 2009 at 09:54 AM
I think it is real important for people to understand that "aging" wine doesn't mean you have to wait 20 years for it. My cellar has about 250 wines in it and yet many of them won't sit longer than 3-5 years down there. Why? I think too many wines, even the simple ones, are released several years too early and too many consumers never get to taste what the winemaker intended. Adding just 3-5 years to a red wine can really make a difference.
Posted by: Dave Foley | November 16, 2009 at 07:36 PM
Just last weekend we drank a bottle of Lenz's 2000 Merlot that we'd bought in '05. Beautiful wine that went perfectly with the farmer's market leg of lamb we had for dinner.
Posted by: Paul Z | November 17, 2009 at 01:43 PM
Leandra, I'm hoping to get my hands on a couple more bottles for the holidays.
Dave, an excellent point, but obviously not true across the board. There ARE wines that are never gonna taste better than when they are released.
Paul, I THINK I have a bottle of that same wine in my cellar (might be the 2000 cab actually). Glad to hear it was good.
Posted by: Lenn Thompson | November 17, 2009 at 01:48 PM