Niagara Region Finalists for NYCR's Wine of the Year

By Bryan Calandrelli, Niagara Escarpment Editor

While there were many notable wines released this year in the Niagara region, I chose mainly vinifera selections as the regional finalists based on the fact that all these wines are major accomplishments for such young vineyards and wineries.

You can’t help but notice that my picks for the best whites of the year are chardonnay heavy. It’s not a coincidence; we are in a cool climate and chardonnay seems to ripen consistently on the Escarpment bench land as well as on the lake shore.

The editors have been asked to write a bit about each of their selections, so here are a few words on each of my finalists:

Arrowhead Spring’s 2007 Chardonnay ($18) shows that owner-winemaker Duncan Ross has a knack for the grape. Even though this particular vintage is made from Finger Lakes fruit, it still has his signature citrus and spice notes that I associate with a well-balanced oaked chardonnay.

Eveningside Winery’s 2008 Reserve Chardonnay ($18) is another oaked chardonnay that I can get behind. Randy Biehl gets a bit more body from his grapes and, like Arrowhead, he gives it just enough oak to add complexity.

Freedom Run Winery's 2008 Chardonnay ($19) (their first estate) is a naked version that makes me think that chardonnay grown on the upper bench of the Escarpment can bring complex notes of flint and chalk -- reminiscent of Chablis – but with more body and depth.

Freedom Run gets another nod for its estate-grown Freedom Run Winery 2008 Riesling ($16). Given an arrested fermentation, this well-balanced Riesling bridges the gap between the dry and off-dry style. While not as perfumed as the average Finger Lakes Riesling, it boasts a concentration that I don’t find in many other New York versions.

Leonard Oakes Winery is the newcomer in this group and winemaker Jonathan Oakes has gotten some serious fruit flavor in this unoaked Leonard Oakes 2008 Reserve Chardonnay ($17). Clean citrus and tropical aromas and a balanced mouth feel made this one stand out.

Arrowhead Spring just released this 2007 Reserve Meritage ($20) made from Finger Lakes fruit. Duncan’s reds always have a classy level of well-integrated oak. Because of its youth, this wine needed a few days to really open up for me, but when it did I was amazed at how it much complexity it showed.

Eveningside Winery’s 2007 Cabernet Franc ($22) is a testament to winemaker Randy Biehl’s patience and farming ability. He took gorgeously ripened grapes and gave them a gentle fermentation followed by an epic 28 months in used oak to produce a fruit-driven complex red with a first-class mouthfeel.

Freedom Run Winery’s 2007 Estate Cabernet ($25) is a blend of 65% cabernet franc and 35% sauvignon that is just still too young to assess its true potential. Regardless, black fruit aromas with sage and bell pepper invite you to taste its full body and graceful tannins.

Freedom Run’s 2008 Pinot Noir ($25) is a wine that will shatter any doubt that pinot noir belongs on the bench land of the Niagara Escarpment. Rich cranberry and raspberry aromas are complimented by serious pinot funk reminiscent of autumn leaves and moss. Its silky tannins and easy-drinking demeanor makes for a popular pinot noir.

Leonard Oakes Winery’s 2007 Meritage ($25) is a fine example of the fruit-driven, well-balanced style they are becoming known for. Soft tannins and red fruit flavors combine with a hint of vanilla to make for a pleasing red.

When you think of Niagara dessert wine you can’t help but talk about icewine. I chose two of the most interesting estate-grown versions in the region. First, Leonard Oakes Winery’s 2008 Vidal Ice Wine ($50) is everything you look for in ice wine. It goes beyond the focused apricot and honey flavor and includes some tangerine, mango and citrus. Sumptuous but not cloying, it keeps its sweetness in check with balanced acidity.

Schulze Vineyards & Winery’s 2008 Block Three Ice Wine ($50) is the most unique dessert wine I’ve ever had. Made from Catawba grapes frozen on the vine, this wine brings sweet-tart-like acidity to ice wine. Aromas of peach, apricot and citrus make this one vibrant and fresh.

Comments

[Jason Feulner]

Okay--I'll be "that guy" to get the debate going.

Winemaking skill aside, does a wine made up of fruit from outside a given region count as a representative of that region?

Couldn't I have, in theory, ordered some Finger Lakes fruit and made a wine in my basement in Syracuse?

While this Finger Lakes fruit was used in a legitimate wine region like the Niagara Escarpment, does it make the application any different from the example above?

I'd like to hear your perspective as to the sourcing of some of these wines. I think you've mentioned that vinifera from Niagara will be more available in the future--will this availability preclude outside sourcing?

[Bryan]

Jason

I understand the question as to whether or not sourced fruit from as far as two hours away would go against the point of this nomination process and that does seem like a good debate.

As far as I understand this Wine of the Year event is to nominate the best wines made in NYS, not pit each region against each one another.

As a consumer I'd much prefer estate grown wines and wines sourced from specific ava's. I do realize though that most consumers don't care as much.

The only non estate wines in this list are from Arrowhead Spring Vineyards. They are just about to release wines from their first estate harvest of 2008. Both of their wines listed have definitely been crafted with specific wine making and cellar practices that are consistent with what I've tasted in all of their wines both estate and non.

For better or for worse (you'll have to ask Lenn) most every wine I've written about for the NYCR has been with estate grapes or fruit with Niagara County.

The growth in vinifera acreage here is probably the most rapid in the state and every year we are seeing more and more Niagara County grown wines.

[Lenn Thompson]

Jason: Good question. The fact is that in any emerging region (the Niagara USA region is so young!) this happens.

When we conceived this project, we didn't put any stipulations on local fruit sourcing. Perhaps we should have, but we didn't.

I should mention that least one of the Hudson Valley wines that will be named as finalists tomorrow was made using Finger Lakes fruit as well.

[Jason Feulner]

I'm glad that Arrowhead is relying more on their own fruit for subsequent vintages.

It's not the end of the world to most people, of course, but in my opinion this issue does speak to the vitality and identity of a wine region. I've been very hard on a few Finger Lakes wineries that import fruit, although I think this practice has diminished considerably in the last few years.

As for the Hudson Valley, I am still diappointed that well-established wineries in that region import so much fruit from the Finger Lakes and Long Island. The Hudson Valley is not "new" by any definition.

[Julia Burke]

I'm looking forward to Duncan's contribution as winemaker at Arrowhead Spring. It's worth noting, and I'm sure he'll expand on these points, that Arrowhead is one of the newest wineries in the region, and that they are pursuing a goal of becoming certified organic with future estate wines (quite ambitious for this region). The issue of the importance of purchased vs. estate fruit, especially when concerning regional character, is as Bryan mentioned part of a much larger debate; when we're dealing with wineries that range from 10 years old to just-opened-on-Saturday, the youth of the region needs to be kept in mind.

[John Sperr -- Rhinebeck NY]

Jason --

As to the Hudson Valley using imported fruit, it is largely a matter of economics.

Of the main New York wine producing regions, the Hudson Valley is the least hospitable to growing grapes -- particularly the vinifera varieties. Factors such as land values and competing land uses, topography, geology, and climatology make operating a vineyard a difficult and expensive endeavor.

It is cheaper and more reliable to buy grapes from other regions. The trade off, obviously, is that you lose the quality control and management of the most important part of the winemaking process.

[Jason Feulner]

John, I would maintain that you also lose a sense of identity.

If you maintain that key elements like geology, topography, and climate are lacking (assertions I'm not qualified to make myself, mind you) than I would ask "Then what is the Hudson Valley about in terms of wine?"

[freelance writing]

emerging region is it a good idea for a cause?? make sense?