This Benmarl Winery 2008 Cabernet Franc ($20) is yet another bit of ammo in the argument for cabernet franc as New York State's most consistently, and widely, successful red variety.
I've tasted several good (or even very good) cabernet franc-based wines from Hudson Valley wineries, but more often than not, they are made using fruit grown either on Long Island or in the Finger Lakes.
That's not the case with this wine, which is made 100% with estate-grown fruit.
The nose opens with earthy dried leaves and dried spices, with a light spice component and understated black cherry aromas.
The fruit is understated on the medium-light bodied palate too, with earthy-herbal flavors up front along with a subtle-spice component and cherry taking a step back.
The tannins are light and a little dusty on the mouthfeel, and the acid is nicely balanced. There is a cured meat note on the finish that I found interesting as well.
A bit more fruit would elevate this wine, but it's a cab franc lover's kind of wine. It's possible that those flavors will develop and open up with more time in bottle. This is a 2008 after all. The first bottled 2008 I've tasted in fact.
Producer: Benmarl Winery
AVA: Hudson River Region
Brix at harvest: 21.2
pH: 3.76
TA: 6.1 g/l
Oak Program: 11 months in 2-4 year old French and American Oak
ABV: 12.9%
Price: $20*
Cases Produced: 115 cases
Rating:
(2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)





I look forward to trying this one. I know they do a real nice job with their reserve Baco - one of the most complex and balanced red hybrids I've tasted.
Posted by: R. Olsen-Harbich | January 05, 2010 at 09:59 AM
And what a beautiful label!
Posted by: jim | January 05, 2010 at 02:50 PM
Im pretty sure that Benmarl's vineyard is 100% Baco Noir, but there is plenty of cab grown in the valley. Their Merlot blend it F*ing awesome.
Posted by: Rowland | January 05, 2010 at 03:16 PM
ps jim the lable is a pretty true to life depiction of the view of the Hudson River from the bluff (Slate Hill) that Benmarl is perched on top of, there is a hill closer to the river you can see has been partially quarried. They use a version of it on most of their Hudson River Region wines. Go and check out the view.
Posted by: Rowland | January 05, 2010 at 03:21 PM
Rowland: I'm pretty sure that Chris told me it was estate, but I may have mis-heard him. I'll check with him and update the post if necessary.
Posted by: Lenn Thompson | January 05, 2010 at 04:23 PM
Lenn,
The Cab Franc comes from a vineyard down the road that they manage.
Posted by: Hudson Valley Wine Goddess | January 05, 2010 at 09:20 PM