Wolffer Estate Vineyards 2006 Noblesse Oblige

By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief

Our Run for the Roses continues today with a reminder that -- not all roses are still wines.

Roman Roth, winemaker at Wolffer Estate Vineyards in Sagaponack has a well-deserved reputation his table and dessert wines, but I don't hear a lot of talk about his sparkling program, which now includes Wolffer Estate 2006 Nobleese Oblige ($40), the second release of sparkling rose.

Made with 54% pinot noir and 46% chardonnay -- all estate grown -- this classy, classic bubbly shows toasty brioche aromas layered with peach, cherry-cranberry and subtle citrus.

The red fruit character is a bit more pronounced on a creamy palate enlivened with terrific acidity, while the stone fruit takes a step back. Golden apple emerges as the wine warms just a bit and is a bit more apparent on the medium-long citrusy palate.

Dry, but not overly so, this is a wine that should please lovers of Champagne and those who prefer fruitier wines as well. I wish a bit more of the yeasty-toast from the nose were on the palate though.

Producer: Wolffer Estate Vineyards
ABV: 12%
Case Production: 250
Price: $40*
Rating: 88

(Ratings Guide)

Comments

[Brad Bogdan]

Somewhat unrelated, but...

I was talking to a couple of the folks at Lamoreaux Landing the other day discussing their sparkling wine. When they mentioned the grape breakdown (all chard, as its a blanc de blancs), I realized that I'd never heard of a local producer using any Pinot Meunier in their sparkling blend. Is there a reason for this? I would think adding some juice that shows better in the short term to the blend would potentially allow wineries to sell more earlier and give sparklers a bigger boost in the state. Do you guys know anything about why this doesn't seem to be done? Or have I just missed the people that do use Pinot Meunier?

[Lenn Thompson]

Brad: Thanks for the comment.

I actually know for a fact that Dr. Frank uses pinot meunier in their bubbly program -- specifically in the Brut (and maybe the BdN)

I'm not sure about anyone else using it in the Finger Lakes, but perhaps Evan knows.

[steve g]

I gotta say this label freaks me out a bit. Is that an 'eye'? Where is the other 'eye'?

[Lenn Thompson]

Steve,

This might be more a function of my mediocre photography than anything else.

The wines that were formerly known as Estate Selection (more or less) are now named after horses from the Wolffer Stables (on the grounds of the winery/estate). That's a horse eye and in person, you can discern that a bit better.

[Tom Mansell]

I'm pretty sure that Dr. Frank's is one of the only Finger Lakes producers growing Pinot Meunier.

[Dave Foley]

I love a good sparkling - - whether it be brut, rose, or blanc de blanc (my favorite of them all).
I noticed that this was rated 88 - - is that the highest Lenndevours rating to date since going to the 100 pt system?
If so, what gives with the 90 pt "ceiling" for NY? Who is rating these wines, really? Are these scores coming from Wine Spectator and Wine Advocate correspondants?
:)
Just kidding. Keep the bubbly reviews coming. They are far too often overlooked and treated as a special occasion wine only (though $40 would put this one in the "special occasion" category for me).

[Lenn Thompson]

Dave,

I think you missed the Hermann J. Wiemer 2008 Dry Riesling Reserve review from last week :)

No ceiling here -- just honest-to-goodness reviews. And by the way, WS and WA are recognizing the quality wines of NY more and more lately. 90 is no longer a ceiling.

[Ben]

I'm pretty sure Sparkling Pointe (an all sparkling producer on the North Fork) is growing Pinot Meunier. The vines are not yet mature enough to harvest and add to the blends but they are growing it.

[Lenn Thompson]

Ben, you're right...Sparkling Pointe IS growing it. Pindar/Duck Walk also grows some for their bubbly.