Bouke 2009 Perlant

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Now here is something unique on the local wine scene.

Look at a bottle of Bouke 2009 Perlant ($17) and it might not seem like a one-of-a-kind. Scan the back label and you'll learn that it's a blend of pinot gris, pinot blanc and pinot noir -- interesting maybe but not unheard of.

To understand what is so unique about this wine, you need to either know a little French, or crack open the screwcap closure and pour. You see, in France, "perlant" refers to a wine containing a faint amount of CO2 -- not quite a sparkling, but not still either.

Poured in a glass, a thin layer of bubbles blankets the wine for a moment before dissipating. The effervescence falls somewhere between Moscato D'Asti and vino verde.  

Pear and lemony citrus aromas are clean and bright with just a little nuttiness in the background. The nose isn't huge, but I wouldn't call it austere either.

Acidity and CO2 -- mostly the CO2 -- combine for a lively, fresh palate in the extreme, bursting with pear and green apple fruit, subtle peach undertones and something that hints at cherry. Before I looked it up, I found it hard to discern how much residual sugar was there -- the acid-bubble combo is so snappy -- but the finish is definitely dry, though short, and shows a bit of tonic water quinine character.

Though simple and a little short, I can see enjoying a bottle (okay, many) out on a dock with a group of friends, nibbling cheese, grilled vegetables, cured meats and eating local shellfish, enjoying the sun and revelry, every sip refreshing and cleansing our palates. This is a unique reminder that not every wine needs to be mind-blowingly complex to be enjoyable.

Producer: Bouke
AVA: New York State
ABV: 12.5%
pH: 3.47
TA: 5.33 g/l
RS: .1%
Price: $17*
Rating: 83

(Ratings Guide)

Comments

[rick rainey]

You had many nice things to say about this wine but you gave it an 83 - I'm curious as to how you arrived at this score.

thanks,
RR

[Lenn Thompson]

Rick: Thanks for an entirely fair question.

Many years ago, when I used the school system A-F rating system, I based those scores largely on my personal tastes and preferences. But, as time wore on and this site became far more than my personal wine blog, I've had to change how I approach wine reviews.

My liking a wine or not isn't the point anymore. If that were the case, barrel-fermented chardonnays wouldn't do very well because I tend to not reach for those often. I have to evaluate the wine at a higher-level. Is it well made? Does it show complexity and length? Is it balanced from beginning to end? Is the oak/tannin/RS/acidity well incorporated?

I like this wine for what it is -- fresh, thirst-quenching and food-friendly -- and because I applaud innovation and unique wines. But based on the other criteria, it's falls a bit short.

I'd also like to remind everyone that an 83 is in the upper range of the "Good" category if you look at our review page.