By Julia Burke, Beer Editor
I dig brettanomyces in beers as long as it’s not
overpowering, so I picked up the 2009 edition of this “Funkhouse Ale with
Brettanomyces” from the self-proclaimed little slice of Belgium in Cooperstown,
Brewery Ommegang.
A yearly specialty brew, it was cellared at the brewery; Ommegang recommends aging this and many of their beers so I had no qualms about trying it at 13 months old.
Ommegeddon pours a four-finger head with fair lacing
retention and a cloudy peaches-and-cream color.
The nose doesn’t show a lot of brett – mostly citrusy yeast esters and a hint of barnyard funk.
A full, highly carbonated palate offers an Orange Julius-style creamy mix of orange and and coriander and solid earthiness courtesy of wild yeast. It’s quite hoppy on the finish thanks to dry-hopping, which is a nice surprise considering the lack of serious hop presence on the nose.
An important note: though the label recommends serving this beer at 40° it really opens up much better at room temperature.
The description “funkhouse ale” is interesting – though it’s pleasant I think considering the funk available to wild-yeast Brett-infected Belgian ales it might be an overstatement.
As a brett nut who likes my Belgians funkier than George Clinton, I think this beer is a bit restrained for the style and for the price. Give it some stinky cheese for a more complete experience, or try to score next year's offering a bit younger.
Producer: Brewery OmmegangABV: 8%
Sample Size: 25 oz. bottle (750 mL)
Stemware: 12 oz. goblet
Availability: Seasonal
Price: $11
Rating: B-
(Note: I have been shopping around for an effective and clear beer rating system; I’m using the A-F grading system in the meantime because it’s in wide use in the craft beer world. Please feel free to offer any feedback as to what sort of beer rating format you’d like to see, whether it’s a 100-point scale, a 1-5 star scale, or something different. We welcome your suggestions!)





I use a variation on the Cyclops system developed in the UK by the Everard's Brewery.
http://www.cyclopsbeer.co.uk
Posted by: Velky Al | June 18, 2010 at 08:29 AM
I prefer the A-F system.
It reminds me of grade school and sadly that's where I may have peaked.
The 100 point scale for beer is unsettling for many reasons most of which are unconscious.
Posted by: Bryan | June 18, 2010 at 09:23 AM
Bryan: Too bad your vote doesn't count :) We want readers, not staffers, to help drive this decision.
Posted by: Lenn Thompson | June 18, 2010 at 10:26 AM
Julia, are you giving this beer an B- because you like Brett funkier than George Clinton (which is pretty funkadelic) or are you able to seperate your personal taste from the critique?
We all know that Parker's wine ratings have been established with a known bias for "in you face" alcohol and fruit, but where are we to start with Julia Burke?
I'm not trying to critique the critique, but what about a rating based on quality of product in the grand scheme of things, as opposed to one person's view of this or that?
In other words, how do I value the rating until I know Julia Burke? And if we assume I don't regularly drink with her, what good is the number or letter anyway?
Posted by: jim silver | June 18, 2010 at 08:50 PM
Jim:
Good point - my comment about liking funk was subjective. (Is personal taste ever entirely separate from the critique? Should it be?) I thought it was important to make the point that I have a high threshold for funky beers, since, as you pointed out, I'm fairly new to the NYCR.
But I do think style, and what a brewery is aiming for, is a factor, and this is a beer that uses the words "funk" and "brett" in the name. I just didn't see a whole lot of funk or brett in the actual beverage. Sure, someone who likes just a hint of funk might dig this beer, as I suggested - that's why we use whole reviews, not just ratings.
My grade reflects my overall experience of the beer, not just that specific issue. Again, ratings (for both beer and wine) are problematic for the very reason that no single number, letter, or other unit can really capture the value of an experience for a consumer, since everyone is different. I'm not looking to tell you whether or not to buy a beer, but to share my personal experience with various examples and hope that you at least enjoy reading it.
If you like my writing in general, you will likely keep reading and get to know "Julia Burke" and whether or not our tastes tend to be in synch, as you would with any site that does reviews. If you don't, that's fine - but if it's because you're not a fan of my rating system, by all means let me know what you'd prefer. I'm certainly not sold on the A-F grades, and I value your feedback!
Cheers,
Julia
Posted by: Julia Burke | June 19, 2010 at 12:51 AM