Ravines Wine Cellars 2008 Dry Riesling

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Morten Hallgren, winemaker at Ravines Wine Cellars, makes dry wines and dry riesling... and that's it.

That's unique in a region where just about every winery has at least two rieslings -- "Dry" and "Semi-Dry" -- and often more.

Having a portfolio without at least one sweeter wine -- 1% residual sugar is as high as it gets at Ravines -- is somewhat risky in a region visited by throngs of sweet wine lovers. Most wineries stock at least one or two wines "for the masses" but Morten and his wife Lisa seem to be doing just fine making the wines they believe in.

Top-to-bottom it's one of the best lineups in the Finger Lakes.

Citrusy and floral, the bright nose on Ravines Wine Cellars 2008 Dry Riesling ($17) shows intense lime, citrus blossom and green apple aromas with subtle peach character (that emerges as the wine warms a bit) and a stony vein beneath.

Focused and intricate, the palate is -- of course -- dry (.3% RS) with more lime, Granny Smith apple, floral and slate flavors that are at once delicate and intense. The finish is long an all about the stony slate character with just a little citrus zest.

Producer: Ravines Wine Cellars
AVA: Finger Lakes
ABV: 12.5%
RS: .3%
Case Production: 1,200
Price: $17*
Rating: 90

(*Ratings Guide)

Comments

[Evan Dawson]

Ah, but the dessert wine from Ravines is coming! Morten has several vintages of sparkling wine in bottle already, but of course that's another dry wine. It's his vin de paille that will be most fascinating. It's a chardonnay that is aged in baskets before pressing, concentrating the sugars, and I believe Morten said the end result is 8 RS, but don't take my word for it.

[Rick Rainey]

Lynn,
I know your readership is far and wide so I will mention where the Ravines wines are currently distributed:
NY
PA
NJ
DC
CT
MASS
Chicago, Illinois

We will have the 2008 vintage available in those markets sometime in late August. We are finishing up the 2007 and I will say, in my humble opinion, it is singing a sweet (dry doesn't work) song at the moment. As you guys know, Morten's wines really benefit with bottle age and the 2007 Riesling is a prime example. Buy as much as you can of the 2007 and forget about the 2008 for oh say maybe...4 to 5 years.

thanks for the review,

RR

[Lenn Thompson]

Evan: I'm really curious to see what Morten does in a few years with the Petit Manseng he and Sam planted this year, given his experience in southern France.

The cool thing about the chardonnay dessert wine is that -- in typical Morten fashion -- he's not doing ice wine or 'regular' late harvest like everyone else!

Rick: The 2007 is a completely different animal from this one. Much more overtly fruity and while balanced, doesn't have the acid that this one does. For me, the 08 is a hair better than the 06 with the 07 3rd probably. Oh, and my name is Lenn, not Lynn ;)

[Rick Rainey]

Right Lenn and not Lynn - I have a boss with the name Lynn and it just magically flies off my finger tips from habit...my apologies.

I'm a romantic - I enjoy each vintage for it's own unique qualities - perhaps it is from spending so much time in the cellars with winemakers that have been asked that question "which vintage is better?" and hearing the typical response that usually includes something about choosing a favorite child.

As for your assessment on the vintages - I'll get back to you on that one as I need at least 24 bottles or so to really sink my teeth into a wine and though I have hit my quota on the 2006 and 2007 I've yet to surpass the 6 bottle mark on the 2008 so I wouldn't feel right in giving my opinion just yet but I'll keep working at it!