By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor
A lot of people, including my wife, don't really care for most gewurztraminer, finding it too floral or perfume-like. I can understand their trepidation -- to a point. Some gewurztraminer does indeed smell and taste like the type of perfume your grandma wears. No one likes those much -- probably not even your grandmother.
But gewurztraminer doesn't have to be like that and there is a lot of great gewurz being made in the Finger Lakes. Right after riesling, it's my favorite grape for the region, delivering exotic spice, tropical-citrus fruit and -- when done well -- great balance.
Sheldrake Point Vineyard 2008 Gewurztraminer ($18) is definitely a wine that delivers balance and doesn't overdo it on the rose petal character.
Candied lemon peel bursts from the glass with floral aromas that aren't at all rose-like or perfumy, classic lychee notes and a little sprinkling of brown spice.
Medium bodied and showing good balance between residual sugar and acidity, this gewurz tastes dry despite sweet lemon-citrus flavors with some ripe peach in the mix. The acidity isn't electric, but helps the wine finish crisply with lingering citrus blossom and Lemon Head candy flavors.
At $15, this is a terrific value for both gewurz lovers and doubters alike.
Producer: Sheldrake Point
AVA: Finger Lakes
TA: 6.3 g/L