Though not typically a fan of comparing local wines to those of other, more-established or better-known regions, sometimes I can't help myself. Sometimes the parallels are too obvious.
Vineyard 48 2009 Sauvignon Blanc ($22), my favorite of the winery's current white releases, evokes New Zealand sauvignon in a way few other local renditions do. If you love that aggressively grassy style, this is a wine for you.
The nose shows classic grapefruit and gooseberry fruit aromas layered with fresh-cut grass, sweet herbs and cat pee aromas — and I mean that as a positive. When closer to room temperature, some peachy scents emerge as well.
The zesty, medium-bodied palate brings a fruity-sweet core of grapefruit and pear with a healthy dose of grassy herbaceousness and just a hint of minerality.
The finish lingers nicely, ending on a dry, grapefruit zest note.
Thought not a great value at $22 (similar wines from New Zealand can be found for half that) this is a well-made wine.
Producer: Vineyard 48
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
ABV:
12.5%
Price: $22*
Rating:
85
Cat pee notwithstanding (EW!), Vineyard 48--previously known as Bidwell--for years has produced the North Fork's most impressive Sauvignon Blanc. Woefully overlooked (not sure why), this SB is indeed made in the New Zealand style (as opposed to more austere white Bordeaux) but absent the often lip puckering lemon acidity of many NZ bottlings. Too bad it has to price out at above $20, which prevents the wine (and the winery) from winning new fans and aficionados. Price aside, Vineyard 48 deserves credit, such as it is, for consistently turning out one of the best Sauvignon Blancs on the North Fork.
Posted by: Ron DiGennaro | August 11, 2010 at 09:45 AM
cat pee aromas as a positive? Why am I having trouble wrapping my palate around that one!!!
Posted by: Jay Schneider | August 11, 2010 at 10:27 AM
Cat pee, gooseberry, actually sounds just fine to me. And the package is really sharp looking. I'm going to get a few of these myself.
Posted by: jim silver | August 11, 2010 at 08:30 PM
I love the smell of cat pee. But, I'm a cat.
Posted by: Mr. Friskers | August 12, 2010 at 06:56 PM