By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor
Last night a group of Finger Lakes winemakers brought their own 2007 pinots together to find out how the vintage is showing.
Organized by Tom Higgins of Heart & Hands Wine Company and hosted by the Stonecat Cafe on Seneca Lake, the Finger Lakes wines were tasted blind with other Pinots from Burgundy, California and Oregon. It was an enlightening experience and a full story is coming later today.
By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Correspondent
Following up on my earlier post today, here is some video where several in the Finger Lakes wine industry chime in with their thoughts on Lemberger vs. Blaufrankisch and the variety's future in the Finger Lakes.
By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Correspondent
When you meet Heron Hill's winemaker, do not make the mistake of calling him "Tom." That is not his name, and he'll correct you. Before I spoke recently with Thomas Laszlo, I was warned by a writer friend not to call him by the wrong name. "He's pretty serious about it," I was warned.
To Thomas' credit, he acknowledges being a little edgy about his name.
"My mother was very particular with names. She always pushed for Thomas, so it's Thomas!" he says with a subtle laugh.
He's just as particular with names as his mother, and it extends into his winemaking. On July 1st, Heron Hill will release the first Blaufrankisch from the Finger Lakes. Of course, Blaufrankisch has been grown and bottled before, but only under the name "Lemberger." Laszlo scrapped Lemberger in favor of Blaufrankisch and now Heron Hill managers are hoping the new name results in big sales. (Note that Keuka Spring Vineyards will also be using Blaufrankisch going forward).
"Even with my neighbor, just the mention of 'Lemberger' brought associations with Limberger cheese," Laszlo explains. "That's obviously not a good thing. Most of the plantings around the world carry the name 'Blaufrankisch,' but otherwise it's not 'Lemberger,' it's 'Limberger,' exactly like the cheese. Only in the United States is it called 'Lemberger.' The TTB consciously changed the I to an E to make it more user-friendly, but I don't think they went far enough. They were misguided from the start, and that mistake is a big reason why it's not more widely planted in this country."
Beyond the unfortunate comparison to cheese, Laszlo has other reasons for dumping Lemberger. "Blaufrankisch has more standing in cultural wine circles," he says confidently. Then he makes an assertion that is bound to raise some eyebrows at Dr. Frank, or Fox Run, or Anthony Road, or the other producers that make Lemberger. "It's made in the Finger Lakes as Lemberger, but I don't think there's a following for Lemberger at all. There's no risk in going with a different name because it hasn't caught on at all."
Regardless of what it's called, the wine has to be good to convince consumers to buy it -- especially for $35 a bottle, which is the aggressive price that Heron Hill has set for the 2007 Reserve Blaufrankisch.
"In cooler years, Blaufrankisch comes off a lot like Pinot Noir," Laszlo says. "In warmer years like 2007 and 2008 it's much more like a Syrah with a Burgundian profile. But even in tough years it never really shows the green or herbaceous notes that you'll find in other varieties. And it has a very attractive, dark color."
Laszlo vehemently disagrees with those who have compared Blaufrankisch to Zinfandel. He believes that eventually, the Finger Lakes will hold Blaufrankisch up side-by-side with Riesling as the most suitable varieties for the region. And he says unlike many other red vinifera, Blaufrankisch will not keep winegrowers awake late into the bitterly cold winter nights.
"It's much more winter-resistant, and it's just not prone to rot like other varieties," he says, adding that the 2007 Blaufrankisch -- sourced from the highly regarded Hobbit Hollow Vineyard on Skaneatles Lake -- checked in at four tons per acre, but he's comfortable with as much as five tons per acre.
Laszlo's version of Blaufrankisch won't be shy with oak -- he performed extensive oak aging with "quite a bit of new oak for 18 months, giving it a bit of the Cabernet Sauvignon treatment," he explains. The winemaker is urging consumers to drink it now or hold it for as long as 10 years. "This wine definitely has a 10-year window. I'm not going with the kind of winemaking that others tend to do that leads to a bunch of awards but then the wine has problems in just a few years. You'll be able to hold onto this one."
That's a bold statement, but then again, that's Tom Laszlo. Pardon me, that's Thomas Laszlo.
I've been a bit slow tasting through samples of late, but here are a few wines that I have tasted but will not receive full published reviews. All five are varietal chardonnay, and while some are well made, none was particularly interesting or inspiring.
(3 out of 5 | Recommended)
(1.5 out of 5 | Not Recommended-to-Average)
(3 out of 5 | Recommended)
(2 out of 5 | Average)
(2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)
By Melissa Dobson, Finger Lakes News Correspondent
Last Saturday, Rich and I attended the 7th Annual Martini-Reinhardt Selection Grazing Gala at Anthony Road Wine Company. From our first trip to visit the winery last fall, the crisp, clean lineup of wines and the welcoming personalities behind them pushed them to our list of favorites here in the Finger Lakes. That's no small feat considering that we have encountered a good amount of nice wines and friendly people along the way.
What continues to impress me is the laser-sharp focus and vision of winemaker Johannes Reinhardt. Johannes is soft-spoken with an enchanting way about him that draws you in. Both he and his wife, Imelda have a talent for making you feel as though you're the only person in the room when they're speaking with you. Their passion for each other's happiness as well as for their shared belief in the need to push for consistent, quality-focused wines in the Finger Lakes region is evident and admirable.
The M-RS Grazing Gala featured hors d'oeuvres and small plates prepared by Red Newt Bistro's Deb Whiting with each plate paired with a select Anthony Road wine.
Just prior to the dessert course, owner Ann Martini asked Johannes to speak to attendees about conditions and winemaking details of the 2008 dessert wines. As I mentioned in this week's "What We Drank" post, they will be available in bottle within the next 2-3 months.
By Sasha Smith, New York City Correspondent
Photo by Sasha Smith
A few weeks ago I attended the first annual Winebow "I Drink New York" event at Astor Wines featuring Ravines Wine Cellars, Wolffer Estate Vineyards and Millbrook Vineyards. I
focused on Ravines, which I knew little about (aside from the fact that Lenn's a fan) and Wolffer.
A brief dispatch:
A good wine is like a good thriller: it should hold your attention throughout and finish with a surprise. The Ravines Wine Cellars 2007 Dry Riesling fulfilled both criteria. The wine has a mineral and citrus fruit purity that’s really compelling, and instead of falling off a bit on the back palate and the finish (something that I’ve noticed often in lesser-quality New York rieslings), it retains this intensity throughout.
The Ravines Wine Cellars 2006 Keuka Village White, made from Cayuga White and Vignoles, is the best hybrid I’ve ever had. Granted, I don’t drink them very much and even really good hybrid wines leave me a little cold, but this one was simple (in a good way), clean, and refreshing. A picnic wine if there ever were one.
I wasn’t a big fan of the pinot noir. A little too green for my taste, and with none of the silkiness that makes Pinot Noir what it is.
The Ravines Wine Cellars 2006 Cabernet Franc had vibrant red fruit and hit an earthy, mushroomy note that I loved. Winemaker Morten Hallgren told me that they pick cab franc as late as November. Whether or not you like this very cool climate style of wine, you have to respect that kind of patience and fortitude.
Morten and his wife Lisa (pictured here) could not have been kinder, or better ambassadors for their wine.
I also had the opportunity to meet Roman Roth, probably the closest thing Long Island has to a celebrity winemaker. Given his reputation, I was expecting him to be a bit stand-offish, but nothing could have been further from the truth.
We chatted about a sparkling rosé they’ll release in time for the holidays this year and he let me linger over a glass of their Wolffer Estate 2007 Late Harvest Chardonnay. With ripe apricot, peach and honey flavors, the wine has a finish that seems to last forever –- or, as Roman quaintly put it, one would need the neck of a giraffe to fully savor it.
For this, the first installment of Local with Local (Finger Lakes Edition), I've asked Chef Deb Whiting of Red Newt Bistro on Seneca Lake to create a dish specifically for enjoying with Damiani Wine Cellars 2007 Cabernet Franc (my review), a fine example of Finger Lakes cabernet franc from a producer that is only now starting to get some attention.
She came up with Grilled, Coffee-Rubbed, Bacon-Wrapped Beef Tenderloin with Cherry-Cabernet Franc Sauce. Here's here thinking behind it and the recipe:
I recently tasted a bottle of Damiani Wine Cellars 2007 Cabernet Franc and of course immediately started thinking of what kind of food I would pair with this wonderful wine. Aromas and flavors of smoke, dark cherry and cranberry danced through my mind as I continued to drink the wine and think about food. I kept coming back to dark cherry and realized that cherry season is just around the corner so I decided to share a recipe idea utilizing them. I decided that a grilled bacon wrapped beef tenderloin with a coffee rub topped with a cherry cabernet wine sauce would be perfect. This recipe is easy and is worth waiting for cherries to be in season.
The coffee rub and the sauce can be made several days ahead of time.
Cherry Cabernet Sauce
Ingredients:
Method:
Makes 6 to 8 servings.
Coffee Rub
Ingredients:
Method:
Using your hands, coat the tenderloin with the coffee rub completely. Now wrap one piece of bacon completely around the beef. Start the next strip of bacon by overlapping on the end of the first piece and continuing until the tenderloin is completely covered.
Gently tuck the loose end of the bacon into the wrapped area. Now you are ready to grill! Turn the meat as you grill so that the bacon gets thoroughly cooked and cook to desired temp. Remove the tenderloin and let “rest” for five minutes.
Slice the tenderloin and place onto a platter bedded with fresh arugula or spinach. Ladel the warm sauce over the slices and enjoy along with a glass of Damiani 2007 Cabernet Franc.
By Lenn Thompson, Editor and PublisherGewurztraminer is the sometimes-forgotten grape of the Finger Lakes, often playing a distant second fiddle to riesling. But if you find yourself touring any of the lakes' 100+ wineries, you will find a lot of good, and sometimes great, Gewurztraminer.
Rooster Hill Vineyards 2007 Gewurztraminer ($16) shows why Gewurzt is one of the most aromatic grapes around. The nose is effusive with pineapple and apricot fruit aromas mingling with ginger, spice and white flowers.
The palate is medium-bodied with apricot, pineapple and spice flavors. The acidity is fresh, balancing the light residual sugar well. The mid-palate has a light creaminess to it, which gives way to medium-long, citrusy finish with hints of minerals.
Not a mind-blowing Gewurzt, but at $16 a good value. Rooster Hill is still a relatively new producer, but they are putting out some very good wines, wines that seem to improve with each vintage.
Producer: Rooster Hill Vineyards
AVA: Finger Lakes
ABV: 11.7%
Price: $16*
Rating:
(3 out of 5 | Recommended)
(Ratings Guide)
My Flip cam makes its video debut, but there are still some kinks; I have yet to figure out how to lay in b-roll. Bummer. We shot some extra video during the tasting and intended to lay some in. Next time.
With the growing focus on aged Finger Lakes rieslings, and with so many wineries hosting riesling verticals this year, I thought it would be instructive to hear from Sheldrake Point Vineyard's winemaker about several topics, including:
The tasting included Sheldrake's 2001, 2003, 2005, 2007, and 2008 semi-dry rieslings. They ranged in RS from 2.3 to 3.6.
Video courtesy of Morgan Dawson Photography, all rights theoretically, if not actually, reserved.
By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent
On Sunday I had the unique privilege of tasting ten rieslings from Dr. Frank's Vinifera Wine Cellars, ranging in date from 2008 all the way back to 1985.
While several other Finger Lakes wineries offered riesling library tastings as part of Riesling Month, virtually no other can reach as far back as Dr. Frank's, which has bottles dating from the 1960s. In this sense, Dr. Frank's provides an historical perspective on the region's potential.
Fred Frank, president of the winery, explained that the wines included in the tasting were not selected based on any notion of vintage quality and ageability. Instead, he related that the winery had varying numbers of bottles reserved from each vintage. With a trade tasting and a consumer tasting both scheduled on the same day, it was necessary to select those vintages that could spare a few bottles and still retain some stock down cellar.
Such practical considerations made for an interesting flight, as the vintages represented both the extremes of the Finger Lakes, hot and dry versus cool and wet, and many points in-between.
The wines tasted, in order, were: 2008 Dry Riesling, 2007 Dry Riesling, 2005 Dry Riesling, 2001 Reserve Riesling, 1991 Dry Riesling, 1988 Dry Riesling, 1987 Dry Riesling, 1985 Dry Riesling, 2007 Semi-Dry Riesling, and the 1995 Semi-Dry Riesling.
The Dry Rieslings
There are nearly an endless number of observations that can be made when one approaches a tasting that has so many variables attached to it. At the most basic level, all of the wines were interesting and enjoyable, which is a result that should never be taken for granted.
Starting with the newer vintages, I detected the flavors and descriptions that are often attached to a Finger Lakes riesling. In the 2008, 2007 and 2005 dry rieslings, the noses had hints of apple blossom, followed by tastes of melon and citrus backed with varying degrees of acidity and minerality.
As I have observed in the past with many other Finger Lakes rieslings from 2007, this wine was all about fruit but with less acidity and minerality, a combination that I do not enjoy as thoroughly. Of the more recent vintages, the 2005 was definitely the strongest, with an almost perfect balance of minerality and fruit and a full mouthfeel. The 2008 was very good but still in bottle shock, so future judgments await.
When we jumped from the 2005 to the 2001, the nose and flavors shifted considerably. The 2001 had a mellow fruit component, more akin to pear than melon or critrus. I also detected a hint of honey and toasty herbs. The wine possessed tremendous backbone and a compelling but austere finish.
Skipping another ten years, the 1991 exploded with similar toast and honey flavors, striking the mid-palate with a viscous butterscotch that dripped into a long finish that evolved and evolved. This was an excellent and well-aged wine that exhibited complexities that one might not associate with a newer riesling.
The 1988 and the 1987 were somewhat similar and in that sense exciting. Both wines showed the butterscotch flavor, although the nose on the 1988 was a bit sharper (it reminded me of mint) and also had a lingering finish. The 1987 had just a touch of petrol (the only wine to really show this quality) and had a finish that did not linger but was narrow, well-defined, and drying.
We arrived at the 1985 with the anticipation that enthusiasts naturally lend to the oldest wine in a group. Unfortunately, the floral nose led to a wine that had passed its prime. A second bottle was opened, to a similar effect. Fred Frank expressed some measured disappointment and began to show us the corks from these bottles which were intact but obviously pushed to their limits. Some oxidation likely occurred, but the wine was still drinkable and worth considering. As I stated to one of my tasting companions, "A dying good wine is better than a new bad one."
Of course the 1984, if tasted, could have been wonderful, or maybe an even older vintage as well. Or perhaps a third bottle of 1985 might have done the trick. This isn't an exact science! All in all, I was very happy that we tasted to nearly 25 years with some amazing results.
The Semi-Dry Wines
The winery reserved the two semi-dry rieslings for the end of the tasting believing that they would have a different overall profile. For the most part, this predication held true. The 2007 semi-dry riesling was a knockout, with powerful lemon and citrus flavors backed by a touch of sweetness and hint of acidity and minerality. This wine was in tremendous balance and demonstrated to me, again, that on the whole I prefer 2007 semi-dry reislings to their dry counterparts from the same vintage. This wine is a must-have.
The 1995 semi-dry riesling was like molasses wrapped in fruit, possessing a solid structure and tremendous mouthfeel that led to a pleasing and lingering finish. This wine was an example of what a slightly sweet aged riesling can accomplish, and I wish we had not tasted this last as I think it might have held up very well in direct comparison to some of the dry riesling results in vintage order.
Conclusions and Observations
It's difficult to come to any specific conclusions about this exercise. As in all large tastings I felt humbled by the varying tastes and questioned constantly my ability to sort through all of the sensory information. Based on the conversations during the tasting, however, most of the participants reached similar conclusions about the general shift in aromas and flavors as the vintages became older.
I am now more convinced than ever that a well-made riesling can easily age 10-20 years and that riesling can take on an entirely different characteristics between the 10 and 20 year mark. Based on this experience and others, I dare say that Finger Lakes rieslings can age and they age well, offering a new dynamic to an already complex and satisfying white.
Which of the wines was the most significant stand-out? I'd have to say that the 1991 was the most interesting in that its complex tastes and aromatic qualities formed a perfect bridge between the elements of a newer rieslings and the intense flavors of an older version. The wine was just so perfect right now.
Fred Frank graciously revealed that the 1991 riesling was made in large part by Peter Bell, currently the head winemaker at Fox Run Vineyards.
...and a little surprise...
At the very end of the tasting, the group was treated to a yet-to-be-released 2008 Late Harvest Riesling made in the traditional Trockenbeerenauslese style.
Wow.
The botrytis just plain kissed these grapes, providing a sweetness of such depth and luxury that I wanted to demand another glass. Yes, the wine is that good even in its newly-bottled youth.
The winery is unsure of the eventual release price, and while I would hope that the wine remains affordable, I imagine they will find some buyers who are willing to take the plunge.
Rumor has it that 2008 was a great year for late harvest and ice wines. If Dr. Frank's late harvest is typical of the vintage than these wines will be prized indeed.
By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Correspondent
Photo Courtesy of Sheldrake Point Vineyard
While attending Sheldrake Point Vineyard's riesling vertical this past weekend, I used my new Flip video camera for the first time. I sat down with winemaker Dave Breeden, and the video will be posted shortly.
Among the topics we discussed:
Because this is my first vlog, I'm not certain how it will turn out, but we'll soon see.
By Lenn Thompson, Editor and Publisher
One should never assume that the wineries with the best reputations make the best wines. In fact, I'm often skeptical of these "best" wineries.
Sometimes wineries that worked hard to earn their reputations rest on their laurels a bit, feeling as though they've arrived at the pinnacle of the industry.
Others never truly earned their place at all, instead relying on superior marketing and public relations.
Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard, on the western side of Seneca Lake in the Finger Lakes region of New York is one winery that not only earned its reputation as a leading producer, but is showing no signs of slowing down in its drive for even higher heights.
Take this Hermann J. Wiemer 2007 Dry Riesling ($17.50) for instance.
Winemaker Fred Merwarth makes seven different rieslings, including two single-vineyard wines, a late harvest, a TBA-style, a Reserve and then two "regular" bottlings. This is one of those "regular" wines, and it's delicious. It seems silly to call it "regular" really.
The nose is somewhat floral with light petrol notes, but it's dominated by that classic peach-lime-wet stone combination I've noticed in many of the Finger Lakes' best rieslings. If you want to know what "a typical Finger Lakes riesling" smells like, this is it.
The feather-light palate is alive with citrusy acidity -- more than many 2007s -- that more than balances the .9% residual sugar. Peach and lime flavors dominate here, with white flowers and super-subtle sweet herbs behind. The petrol notes from the nose are barely noticeable on palate, but there is a terrific minerally vein throughout.
A long, peachy finish ends with a citrus zest note.
I don't want to overuse the word "classic" here, but this is a classic Finger Lakes riesling, and it's very well priced.
Producer: Herman J. Wiemer Vineyard
AVA: Finger Lakes
Price: $17.50*
Rating: 
(4 out of 5 | Delicious, Distinctive
)
By Lenn Thompson, Publisher and Editor
Hot on the heels of the hugely successful TasteCamp project, I'm happy to announce yet another way for me to share the wines I write about with the greater blogging community -- TasteNY.
The concept, again, is simple. Quarterly (that's the plan anyway) I'll hand-pick a set of New York-made wines, beers or spirits and get them into the hands of a small group (10-12) bloggers. Participating bloggers needn't promise to write about them, and there certainly isn't a ticking clock -- the bloggers can taste the wines whenever they'd like.
The only thing that I've asked them to do is taste the wines, preferably with a group of friends. And, even better, over a meal together. As if any blogger (or wine lover for that matter) needs an excuse to get together with friends to drink wine and eat.
For this, the first edition, the focus is on Finger Lakes riesling. Nearly 20 wineries submitted nearly four cases of wine for possible inclusion in the project and I was able to pare that group down to 12 wines from 12 wineries, from 4 different vintages:
I'm really excited about this kick-off edition and I think it's going to be a lot of fun for everyone included, including Joe Roberts, John Witherspoon, Megan Witherspoon, Richard Auffrey, Becky and Steve Borichevsky, Tim Elliott, Hardy Wallace, Dale Cruse, Brian Simpson, Erika Strum, Rob Bralow, David Honig, Jeff Lefevere, Matt Horbund, Tom Mansell, Thea Dwelle and our own Evan Dawson.
Now that the program has been announced, the wheels are in motion to get the wines out. I'd like to thank Morgen McLaughlin from Finger Lakes Wine Country for helping with the coordination and logistics of this edition of TasteNY.
The calendar is wide open for the next edition. Maybe we'll do Long Island cabernet franc. Or maybe we'll do some beer. Stay tuned to find out.
My friend, and partner in the New York Cork Club, Amy Bennett from Greene Grape Wine appeared on WPIX-11 yesterday morning to discuss budget-friendly wines. I was GOING to embed the video here, but the WPIX site won't let me do it without including advertisements that they have sold and are making money on.
You can check it out here if you'd like though.
I'm proud to say that one of the wines she took with her, Atwater Estate's NV Estate White was a New York Cork Club selection long ago and has been in the shop ever since. Amy has long been an ardent supporter of New York wines (she wouldn't work on the club with me if she weren't!) and I really enjoy seeing her re-order wines that I've chosen for the club.
By Lenn Thompson, Editor and Publisher
Heron Hill Winery is one of many Finger Lakes wineries that try to appeal to a wide audience. On one hand, winemaker Thomas Laszlo makes a couple of my favorite Finger Lakes rieslings. He also makes some delicious dessert wines. Anything designated "Ingle Vineyard" can be counted on for deliciousness as well.
On the other hand, not every tasting room visitor is going to drop $30 for the reserve riesling, so he also makes a pile of mediocre wines, some under the "Game Bird" label. Those wines are all under $15 and appeal to a wide audience. That's probably the audience that keeps the lights on.
This riesling, Heron Hill Winery's 2007 Semi-Dry Riesling ($13), which is made from grapes grown througout New York (inlcuding Lake Erie and Long Island) shows ripe peach and honeyed citrus on the nose.
The medium-to-light-bodied palate features straight-forward peach flavors, with something akin to watermelon rind there too. With 2.5% residual sugar and not quite enough acidity to truly balance it, this wine defintely tastes sweet. The finish, which I'd like to be a bit drier as well is short as well.
You can do far worse for $13, but there are better wines at that price point too. The Heron Hill Reserve, Ingle Vineyard and Old Vines rieslings are so much better, and the Ingle Vineyard wine is only a few dollars more.
Producer: Heron Hill Winery
AVA: New York
ABV: 11.5%
Price: $13*
Rating: (2 out of 5 | Average)
By Lenn Thompson, Editor and Publisher
One of the things that I always struggle with is how to get more wines, more reviews, onto LENNDEVOURS. To make the time to write full reviews of everything I taste, I'd have to quit my day job, move out of my house and leave my family. I'd be living on the street and miserable, but hey, I'd be publishing more reviews.
To address this challenge, I'm going to try a something I'm calling the LENNDEVOURS Tasting Table, where I'll give quick-hit reviews of the wines I tasted in the past week that didn't get full reviews. I'm still working out the details of why wine X gets a full review and wine Y doesn't, but I'm hoping that this process works itself out. So there are the other New York wines that I tasted this week:
(3 out of 5 | Recommended)
(2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)
(2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)
By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent
Last year, at the 2008 Riesling Rendevouz event at the beautiful New York Wine and Culinary Center, I had the distinct pleasure of tasting a great many 2007 rieslings. In fact, few of the 40 plus wineries at last year's event were not pouring their 2007 rieslings.
I was able to sample so many 2007 rieslings at this single event last year that I felt confident enough to proclaim familiarity with the vintage before summer even started.
The 2009 Riesling Rendevouz provided a slightly different story. All of the trappings were the same: the nice tasting setups, the great food, and the same fun and informative staff. As I moved from tasting booth to tasting booth, however, I soon learned that unlike its predecessor, the 2009 version of the Riesling Rendevouz would not provide me with many opportunities to try the newest vintage. In fact, all told, I had only 4 or 5 new 2008 rieslings. Almost all the wineries were pouring their 2007 rieslings, and a quite a few were still pouring some 2006 rieslings!
This result left me with mixed feelings. On one hand, I wanted to share the excitement of a new vintage and begin to taste and judge its qualities. On the other, I can't help but applaud a development that shows a bit of maturity for the region as a whole. I think.
I checked the date of last year's event, and it was held at least a week-and-a-half earlier, so there is no doubt that wineries are consciously holding on to their 2008 rieslings.
The reason for this development could fall into two main possibilities: either the region has decided not to rush its new vintages, taking the time to harvest and ferment a little later, leaving some extended time in tank, and maybe even possibly holding on to their wines once bottled to avoid tasting and selling shocked wines; or, perhaps everyone has a ton of 2006 and 2007 rieslings in stock and they need to push them out the door before they even think about selling the 2008s.
The pragmatist in me thinks it is a combination of both. Either way, I see no reason why we always want the newest Finger Lakes rieslings RIGHT NOW when so many wine regions around the world hold on to their whites just a touch longer and hold on to their reds for several years. On the whole, this might be a good development for the region which signifies increasing quality.
The few 2008s I did try were very good but hard to describe as of yet. Anthony Road Wine Company's winemaker Johannes Reinhardt calls the vintage "beautiful" and the best he's seen in his tenure at the Finger Lakes. Ravines Wine Cellars' winemaker Morten Hallgren was also adamant about the quality of the vintage, explaining to me that the structure is very intact but that the fruit was also present and in balance, a nearly-perfect vintage after the steely wines of 2006 and very ripe wines of 2007.
We shall see. I am looking forward to tasting more 2008 rieslings.
As always, I enjoyed the Riesling Rendevouz event, which I think is a marvelous opportunity for wine drinkers to be exposed to the quality of the region in a single evening. With so many wineries to visit, it sure is convenient to get a large sample all at once!
By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Correspondent
Photos by Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent
Something special happened Friday night at the New York Wine Wine & Culinary Center, and the effects are likely to echo for a long time.
Every wine lover has a special bottle or two that stir vivid memories. Simply gazing at the label is enough to transport the owner to the time and place when the bottle was consumed. For me, there is one bottle of wine so special that I can picture the room in which I drank it when I see the label. When I hear the song that was playing at the time (David Grey's "Say Hello Wave Goodbye") I can literally taste the wine once more.
In the Finger Lakes, it has long been a challenge to elevate local wines to this unique place for the wider market. After all, most wines are sold not long after bottling, and most producers urge consumers to drink the wines when they are young. Many special wines can be laid down for a decade or more, and such patience doesn't simply preserve quality, it enhances it.
On Friday night, a trend gained momentum: Finger Lakes rieslings are showing gorgeously as they age, and the consuming public is finally gaining a chance to experience that.
I was honored to be asked to join a panel presenting Finger Lakes Rieslings at various stages of development. With an audience of about 30 -- an audience that was uniformly geeked out about local wines -- we tasted through eight rieslings. Here was the lineup:
Anyone who doubts the lifespan of Finger Lakes rieslings ought to have watched the audience taste the 1997 Dr. Frank. It was like inviting a group of people to a book reading and having them read Hemingway for the first time.
Unfortunately, I found the Glenora offerings to be a mess -- slightly off-tasting, oniony and not varietally typical -- though many in the audience enjoyed them as well. But it was the Red Newt 2002 that reached up out of the glass and delivered a knockout blow to me.
As we learned last week with a veritcal of older Wiemer rieslings, 1999 and 2002 Finger Lakes rieslings are showing historically special characteristics. This wine had more layers than a kindergartner waiting for the bus on a winter day in Fargo. Even better, winemaker Dave Whiting says there are at least 10 cases still in existence and some is for sale in the Red Newt Bistro.
Comparing the pair of 2003s and 2004s was a blast, as each wine was made with fruit from different sources and made by winemakers with different techniques. I am deeply intrigued to see where the Ravines style of Dry Riesling goes as it ages, as it marks the driest of Finger Lakes riesling (0.3% RS).
The panel convened by the NYWCC's Shannon Brock, did a fabulous job, and I was simply trying not to get in the way. Wine educator Lorraine Hems is a natural, and Ravines' winemaker Morten Hallgren addressed a variety of thoughtful questions.
As a bonus, Red Newt's Whiting was in the audience to offer insight, as was Fox Run's assistant winemaker Tricia Renshaw, and a longtime member of Dr. Frank's staff.
Nascent wine regions need decades to discover the true arc of aging for their best wines. Thanks to events like this one, we're seeing the Finger Lakes' best rieslings as they evolve into something that is occasionally extraordinary -- perhaps so extraordinary that you'll taste it and freeze the moment in your mind, recalling the music that was playing, the art on the walls, the company with whom you enjoyed the bottle. And perhaps in the future you will hear a song and, somehow, the music will taste like a Finger Lakes Riesling, evolving to tell yet another story when you open it once more.
By Lenn Thompson, Publisher and Editor
May is Riesling Month in the Finger Lakes, but somehow this is my first Finger Lakes riesling review this month. Look for more riesling reviews this week and next (I'm tasting a lot of them lately, just haven't written them up yet).
Before we get to today's wine, a little background on Billsboro Winery. It's located on the west side of Seneca Lake, just south of the city of Geneva, NY and is owned by Kim and Vinny Aliperti. Vinny, who makes the wines, also serves as winemaker at Atwater Estate Vineyards, which is right across the lake.
I've enjoyed Vinny's Atwater wines for some time now for their balance, focus and value. This Billsboro Winery 2007 Dry Riesling ($16) fits within that framework though with a bit more opulent fruit and lower acidity -- both the result of the warm 2007 growing season.
The nose is bright with lush peach and apricot aromas and light honeyed citrus character.
Ripe and juicy up front, it's much more mouth-filling than I've come to expect from dry Finger Lakes rieslings. Peach and pear flavors dominate here with a squirt of lime juice. There's enough acidity here to balance all that fruit, but it doesn't show the tension and verve that are apparent in cooler, more-typical years.
Producer: Billsboro Winery
AVA: Finger Lakes
RS: .75%
Price: $16
Rating:
(3 out of 5 | Recommended)
By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Correspondent
Photos by Morgan Dawson
It's about time.
See what I did there? Clever, right? I've been waiting for quite a while to see Finger Lakes wineries celebrate the aging potential of their rieslings, and many are finally doing it. It's about time. I've also been encouraging my friends to lay a few bottles down or seek out older bottles -- it's about, well, time.
More than anything else, tasting older wines is pure fun. The wine is not only a snapshot of a given year; it's a story that has changed over the years. It shares new things.
This Friday evening I'm honored to be part of a panel that will focus on library rieslings. That panel convenes during the Rendezvous with Riesling, the annual showcase held at the New York Wine and Culinary Center in Canandaigua. The Rendezvous begins at 7pm. Tickets are $55, and $95 if you want to attend the panel and tasting of library Rieslings. The Rendezvous is going to be a blast and I hope you can join us.
But beyond the Rendezvous, a handful of Finger Lakes wineries are hosting vertical tastings of their own library Rieslings. The first came last Saturday at Hermann J. Wiemer on Seneca Lake.
Winemaker Fred Merwarth poured the last 10 Dry Rieslings released by the winery, including a tank sample of the 2008 vintage (Wiemer '08 Rieslings are still fermenting, as is normal for this producer).
Here are some tasting notes:
Collectively, these wines maintained that classic Finger Lakes cut. They were fresh enough that I would likely have not placed any of them as older than four years or so in a blind tasting (with the exception of the '99).
Then Merwarth offered a bonus: He poured the '99 Late Harvest Riesling and the 1990 (!) Dry Riesling. The '99 offered a lesson in riesling evolution -- it tasted like a creamy pastry, an almond-flavored bearclaw, with some tropical fruit accents. After having to discard several half-bottles of oxidized 1990, Merwarth found plenty still alive. The electricity had mellowed, but the wine was a graceful image of Riesling, an elder statesman with richness. It was generous of Fred to pour it, but then, many winemakers have such a love of sharing their wines that it becomes difficult to put the corkscrew away.
We were impressed that Fred took the time to dig up and present all of the harvest notes, which helped tell the story of each wine. He was able to describe the weather for each vintage, harvest dates, and the breakdown of how much Riesling came from each of Wiemer's three vineyards. It's also fair to say that not every winery is making wines that are structured to age like Wiemer's. Low yields, older vines and careful management all contribute to a wine's ageability.
There are more Finger Lakes library tastings to come. Here is a short list, and it is growing:
By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent
There are a few Finger Lakes wineries that have made the production of red vinifera the cornerstone of their business plan. What makes Damiani Wine Cellars, located on the eastern shore of Seneca, unique is the winery's original emphasis on red to the exclusion of whites.
When the winery opened in 2004 after several years of experimentation, it offered a variety of reds and only a limited number of whites.
"Well, we are red wine drinkers," shrugs Phil Davis, a second-generation grower who oversees the grape growing and production. Lou Damiani serves as the winemaker of the operation.
Both Davis and Damiani own several acres of vineyards around and near the winery property. Davis explains that the site is ideal of red growing because it is part of the "banana belt" the area on Seneca Lake that receives favorable sun and air treatment to remain slightly warmer than the immediate surrounding area. "We are near the deepest part of the lake and the afternoon sun is strong here. It can sometimes mean a 5-10 degree difference on important growing days."
Davis admits that even with an extra bit of warmth that growing red grapes is not easy in the Finger Lakes. To emphasize and concentrate flavors, Davis believes in stressing his vines, keeping them small and making them work very hard to find their roots. Yields are kept as low as needed, and harvests stretch well into November as Davis tries to find the right pH levels, the indicator he finds most telling about red potential.
The results are impressive. Damiani offers several versions of merlot and pinot, as well as a cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, a meritage, and even a syrah.
The 2007 Barrel Select Merlot exhibited a great deal of potential but needs some years to downplay the oak a bit to let its ripe flavors of raspberry, chocolate, and tobacco shine. The 2007 Pinot Noir was very well-balanced with an interplay of earth and cherry, and the Meritage from the same vintage kept developing in the glass and will likely offer some fun and nuanced flavors as it ages.
Despite their demonstrated enthusiasm for reds, Damiani recently began to offer a few more whites ("We are white wine drinkers too," Davis assured me). I had the opportunity to taste the batch of 2008 whites from tank and I found the upcoming Gewürtztraminer extremely compelling as it danced on the tongue with sharp acidity, spice, and an aromatic maturity consisting of moss and floral scents. The 2008 rieslings should also offer riesling lovers fine examples of this variety.
I arrived at Damiani to sample and examine their devotion to reds, but left with an appreciation for their willingness to fully explore the ability of the Finger Lakes region to produce good wine of all varieties. In addition to their expanding white portfolio, the winery is also working on a sparkling wine made in the méthode fashion. Asked what his goals are, Davis talks of his hobby of buying up Old World wines to compare and contrast methods, styles, and results. "The Finger Lakes isn't Europe, but Europe's style is a good reference point. We can make good cool climate wines and we're just figuring out what works here."
By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Correspondent
Few things put a hop in my step like a tasting of cabernet franc from around the world. Before heading out to Wine Sense, an excellent wine shop on Rochester's Park Avenue, I noticed that the tentative tasting list did not include any New York cab franc. The shop's owner, Kristin Vanden Brul, is a strong supporter of New York wines, and I called to ask if I could bring a bottle to taste blind. She happily agreed; it's rather common at Kristin's tastings for enthuastic guests to bring a bagged bottle from their cellar. I did not tell her the bottle was from the Finger Lakes.
"You're sticking your neck out," my wife, Morgan, observed, noting that there was no guarantee that the dozen other guests would enjoy a New York cab franc.
When we arrived we saw that the tasting list had been updated to include a cab franc from Long Island: the Pellegrini Vineyards 2004 Cabernet Franc. Before we began, one of the guests told Kristin that he had never had a Finger Lakes cab franc, and he wondered if she could add one to the list. She replied that the Damiani Wine Cellars 2007 Cabernet Franc was a late addition to the menu as well -- an excellent choice. And then there would be my bagged wine. I was deeply curious to see how the NY wines would show.
The ebullient and ubiquitous Holly Howell led the tasting, and she soon found that the group was comprised of cab franc lovers. We began with a pair of slightly disappointing Chinons (both from 2007, and I admit that I don't know what that vintage was like). But a spicy, herbal Amirault Bourgueil raised the game considerably.
Next stop was Long Island. We were excited; most guests had either never had a New York state red wine or had not had one in many years. "I gave up on New York state almost 20 years ago," one man said. His tune was about to change.
The Pellegrini garnered quite a few raised eyebrows. Nicely structured and varietally on point, the only uniform complaint came from the finishing kick of vanilla. "I'm glad the oak didn't swamp it the whole way, but that's a lot of toast to finish," said the very sharp cab franc afficianado to my right. Disappointing finish aside, the wine showed depth and a nice balance of classic cab franc traits. It had me privately wishing we could have flown in a barrel sample of the Shinn Estate Vineyards 2007, which is earning gonzo reviews.
The cab franc tour then barnstormed through the regions that are turning out a wine that I would never associate with cab franc. Fig newtons and Raisinets are fine, but I hardly think of brown fruit when I think of cab franc. And yet the $47 Vignamaggio 2003 from Tuscany was massive and raisiny; the $45 Benegas 2003 from Argentina was rich with fig and vanilla, and the $47 Viader Dare 2004 from Napa was a bomb (though I confess I very much liked the leaner 2003 version of the same wine, a bonus that Kristin brought from her cellar).
By the time we arrived back in New York state, the Cab Franc lovers were ready for something more recognizable. Many were surprised to find it in the Finger Lakes, in the form of a ripe, spicy 2007 Damiani. The tasters loved the "good green" notes that were balanced by juicy dark fruits.
"After the Pellegrini and Damiani, what do you think of New York state now?" I asked the table's Doubting Thomas.
"I'm impressed," he said, smiling. "We've come a long way. I'll need to plan a few visits."
Not even Kristin and Holly knew what wine was in the brown bag being passed around for the final taste. Kristin had asked one of her staff to open it; she didn't want to know. She does an outstanding job of discerning a wine's origin, so I was curious to see what she would say. I only announced that I am afflicted with a deep love of cab franc, so I wanted to bring a bottle that is special to me for this tasting.
As the group studied the wine in the glass -- dark but not black -- I began to catalog their comments:
"Best nose of the night."
"A lot there. Smells like an herb garden."
"Well, we can rule out California!"
As they sipped and swished, they began to narrow the search. "Gotta be French," said Doubting Thomas. "I don't know about that," said the astute taster to my right. "I think it could be New York based on the wines we've had tonight. A very good New York."
"That would be neat," the man said, "but this is not a New York wine."
The group decision, led by Kristin, was that this was a "Loire from a ripe vintage." They were shocked to see that it was a Ravines Wines Cellars 2005 Meritage. Now, I cheated a bit, as this was not a pure cab franc (nor was the Pellegrini). But the blend was nearly 2/3 Cab Franc that year, with cab sauvignon and merlot finishing it off. And to me, it was a gorgeous showing of what a Finger Lakes blend, led by cab franc, can be.
2005 was a wonderfully balanced year, and the results were exciting. The tasters at Wine Sense agreed that this particular wine still had plenty of years left and was as complex and enjoyable as any they've had from New York state.
In the wake of Taste Camp East, it's fascinating to see where New York wines will take Cab Franc. It does not sell particularly well in the Finger Lakes and there was a glut of fruit last year that had trouble finding a buyer. In many parts of the Finger Lakes it is still over-cropped and thin -- perhaps frustrated growers will finally gear back the tons per acre. On Long Island it is not nearly as widely planted as other varieties. But when wine lovers get a taste of the strong vintages of NY Cab Franc (and trust me, I would not have brought 2006 to this group), the old ideas tend to fade away like the Labrusca vines that once dominated our land.
By Lenn Thompson, Editor and Publisher
Obviously I'm a bit behind with this post, given that we're well into May now, but I wanted to write a quick post about the wines I chose for April's shipment of the New York Cork Club. Both were a little difficult to get our hands on, so I'm extra proud of the choices.
First is Keuka Lake Vineyards 2007 Reserve Vignoles ($19), just the kind of wine that you're not going to get in any other wine club. First, Vignoles is hybrid grape. Unfortunately, most wine 'experts' ignore hybrids. Second, it's a (almost) dry rendition (most of the Vignoles with any sort of pedigree is used in dessert and ice-style wines).
It pours a pale yellow and the nose is rich and fruity with intense ripe (almost over-ripe) pear aromas mingling with those of musk melon and peach skin. A faint, distant note of gravelly minerals never really stepped forward, but really added to the complexity.
Medium-to-full bodied, the palate is similarly ripe and intense. The musk melon flavors come first, with the pear flavors emerging more on the mid-palate. The naturally bright acidity of Vignoles is there every step of the way, from the attack all the way through to a long, peachy finish that ends with a flavor that reminds me of the way my parents old gravel driveway smelled after a summer rain storm.
This is a wine that I'd love to pour for anybody who scoffs at the ability of crosses and hybrids to make delicious, balanced wines. And this was the LAST CASE available at the winery. It was hand delivered to the Brooklyn store a couple weeks ago by the winery's owner.
Our second wine is one that we actually received before it was even released, Raphael 2008 Naturale ($20), a blend of 60% chardonnay, 30% sauvignon blanc and 10% semillon. It's named Naturale because it's winemaker Rich Olsen-Harbich's forray into natural winemaking. It was made with wild yeasts, without fining or filtering, and only a touch of SO2 at bottling. It even has a bit of residual C02 in it that tickles the nose and tingles the tongue. That slight frizzante is a remnant of fermenation and Rich think it will disipate within a couple months.
The nose, especially once the froth subsides and the wine warms to cellar temperature, is complex and intricate with aromas of ripe Gala apples, apple blossom, roasted nuts, sweet herbs, lemon zest and toasty yeast.
Medium bodied, it's much more citrusy on the palate, with the apple taking a step back, and basil-like herbs, nuts and a subtle minerally note. This wine is impeccably balanced -- creamy on the mid-palate yet featuring lively acidity. The oak (20% was fermented in new oak, the rest in stainless) accents rather than dominates. And, the finish is long with a little yeasty-leesy spiciness.
By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Wine Correspondent
Photo Courtesy of Dave Whiting
Dave Whiting does not simply want Red Newt to survive. He wants it to thrive, and he admits that it's tougher now than ever.
"Ten, twenty years ago you could open a winery in the Finger Lakes, open the doors, and be viable as long as the wine was decent," Whiting said after bottling a wine that he thinks will make a serious impact in markets outside New York state. "Now, with more wineries opening and production rising, you have to find ways to differentiate yourself. I don't just want to increase production. I want to focus on what I believe we do best, and before anything else, that's riesling."
So here's Red Newt's blueprint:
If this works, it could become the model for other mid-size Finger Lakes wineries.
Red Newt's riesling production is jumping from 800 cases in 2007 to 2800 cases in 2008, and it should rise to well over 8000 cases within four years. Whiting has contracted plantings with several local growers, and there are now 20 new acres of Riesling in the ground, all of it earmarked for Red Newt.
The winery will still produce a Dry Riesling and the Reserve Riesling will sell for around $22, but most of the Riesling production will be devoted to the new, so-called "Circle Riesling" -- the unofficial name is a kind of joke at the winery that comes from the circular label on the bottle.
"We think this wine is a breakout wine that will compete extremely well with wines from other regions," Whiting said about his new wine that clocks in at 3.2% residual sugar. The idea came not long ago, he said, when he was in a local wine store.
"I walked into the Finger Lakes aisle and everything was about $14 or $15. The Finger Lakes tends to offer a lot more in a riesling when it comes to fruit intensity and structure, but the market is price-sensitive. It's time to enter into a pricepoint that is a little bit lower so we can be highly competitive."
Circle Riesling will retail for $11.99. "It's definitely a medium-sweet wine, and that's by design," Whiting explained. "It's similar in sweetness to what you'll find from the high-volume producers, but we think it's much crisper and carries more structure."
NExt is ditching the marginal wines. Whiting enjoys a good sauvignon blanc or chardonnay, but it's clearly not where his passion lies as a winemaker.
By Lenn Thompson, Editor and Publisher
Well folks, it would appear that my first official review of a 2008 Finger Lakes riesling is of a wine made and bottled by a Long Island winery.
Baiting Hollow Farm Vineyard, located in (you guessed it) Baiting Hollow, NY is the first tasting room you come across as you head east on South Avenue/Route 48 and they are often swamped with people on weekend and during the pumpkin-picking season.
Baiting Hollow Farm Vineyard and its wines reside somewhere in the middle of Long Island wine. Their wines are often good, not great, and none of them retails for more than $21. In an industry with sweet, magnum-bottled blends of dubious origin on one end and $125 merlot on the other, Baiting Hollow is perfectly middle class.
This riesling fits that model a bit too.
They are planting their own riesling vines this spring, but as I mentioned earlier, this wine was made from grapes grown in the Finger Lakes.
I really like the nose on this riesling. It shows nice green apple and just-ripe peach aromas with a little spicy-floral note in the background.
With 2% residual sugar, it's clearly made in the popular "off-dry" style. The flavors are fruity -- apple, peach and a little melon -- but it really lacks the acidity needed to bring balance, especially on the finish where a little citrus peeks through.
This is the kind of riesling that will probably fly off the shelf in their tasting room, but I prefer my riesling a bit more racy.
Producer: Baiting Hollow Farm Vineyard
AVA: New York
ABV: 12%
Price: $18
Rating: (2 out of 5 | Average)
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