New York Cork Report

Uncork New York: Sip, Savor and Shop @ City Winery on December 6

There have been rumors about this event swirling for weeks, but as of today it's official -- Sip, Savor & Shop, a showcase for New York wine and food, will take place on Sunday, December 6 from 2 to 6 p.m.

More than 35 wineries from across New York State will be joined by farmers and food producers, as well as several local restaurants, to present a taste of New York and celebrate the holiday season. Over 100 wines from Long Island, the Hudson Valley, the Finger Lakes, and other regions, will be available for tasting -- and most uniquely be available for sale as well.

My guess is that more wineries will sign on leading up to the event, but wineries that have already comitted included Anthony Road Winery, Chateau Frank and Dr. Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars, Chateau LaFayette Reneau, Damiani Wine Cellars, Heron Hill Winery, Keuka Lake Vineyards, Shaw Vineyard, Standing Stone Vineyards, Wagner Vineyards, and White Springs Winery from the Finger  Lakes, Bedell Cellars, Bouké Wines, Brooklyn Oenology, Castello di Borghese, Duck Walk Vineyards, Laurel Lake Vineyard, Lieb Family Cellars, Long Island Meadery, Macari Vineyard & Winery, Martha Clara Vineyards, Medolla Vineyards, Onabay Vineyards, One Woman Wines & Vineyards, Palmer Vineyards, Raphael Vineyard, Scarola Vineyards, Sherwood House Vineyards, Sparkling Pointe, and Wolffer Estate Vineyards & Winery from Long Island, and Benmarl and Brotherwhood Winery from the Hudson Valley.

Tickets are $45 and include wine and food sampling, as well as a souvenir wine glass. They can be purchased from the City Winery website.

The New York Cork Report will be involved in this event somehow as well. I'm hoping to have something more to announce in the next week or so.

This long over-due celebration of New York's bounty is sponsored by the New York Wine & Grape Foundation in conjunction with other organizations focused on local wines and foods including City Winery, the “Edible” publications, Finger Lakes Wine Country Tourism Marketing Association, Long Island Wine Council, Pride of New York (Department of Agriculture & Markets), and Wine & Food Associates.

Ithacork Video: The Finger Lakes Wine Festival

Our science editor, Tom Mansell from Ithacork, just posted this video from his visit to the Finger Lakes Wine Festival over the summer.

He offers some follow-up commentary here and here as well.

Finger Lakes Wine Festival Love, or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Fruit Bomb

By Bryan Calandrelli, Niagara Correspondent

Perhaps the only thing crazier than attending the Finger Lakes Wine Festival as an attendee is actually pouring wine at it. Now, I’d conceded that the crowds, party atmosphere and prevalence of sweet wine kept me from attending in the past, and I would never want to be the ringleader for a team of winery employees planning the logistics of participating in the festival. But, when I was given the opportunity this year to pour for a local winery, I just couldn’t pass it up -- especially because all I had to do was show up and do what I was told.

At any rate, I still had to deal with the general mayhem.

A survivor’s guide to working the festival:

1. Give in to the urge to stop in for a tasting at a winery or two on your way down. It’s just not healthy for any of us to drive by dozens of wineries and not stop in and get at least one tasting.
2. If you are told you are working a toga party the first night of the festival, accept it as fact. Togas do make occasional appearances at parties where people carry oversize plastic mugs, goblets and glasses full of sweet wine.
3. Upon realizing that the main restroom facilities of a festival will be porta-potties, prepare your metabolism to take advantage of the pristine condition they are in first thing in the morning. Remind yourself later that day that even a strategically thrown Red Cat bottle in a porta-potty doesn’t call for taking an ironic photo while inside.
4. Get comfortable with poaching. If you see people waiting in line to get a taste of something, don’t be afraid to let them know they can get some immediately if they step up to your table. Sorry Glenora!
5. Accept the fact that some people just want to taste the “sweetest thing you got”. Do not try and change the world, pour them what they are looking for and make a quick sale if you can.
6. If your coworker encourages you to step away to get a few tastes, take him or her up on it. With the crazy non-stop auction on acid atmosphere there, you may not get a second chance to take a break. Don’t be a hero.
7. Embrace the viral social phenomenon that occurs every time the sound of glass breaking pierces the steady drone of wine banter and take part in yellowing “ohhhh” along with your neighbor. By the end you’ll be guessing how far away the clumsy attendee is by the Doppler effect caused by the uproar.
8. Don’t assume another pourer knows what you mean when you say they should check a bottle for taint. It doesn’t matter if they are big enough to rent eight tables and rightfully state that they were the first to successfully grow vinifera in the region, the person pouring may not be trained to sniff out bad corks.
9. If you see an open bottle behind a table, it must have been uncorked for people like yourself. If they say it’s just for trade and media, you respond, “That’s what I hoped you say!” and stick your glass out.
10. Do not expect an after party sponsored by Riedel at a swanky lakeside mansion with shot girls and chocolate fountains after the festival. From what I can tell there’s not much nightlife in the Finger Lakes and chances are most of the workers are exhausted from dealing with the masses.

Cabernet Franc: What We Learned From 656 Glasses of Wine

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor

Photos by Morgan Dawson

When the demonstration room at the New York Wine & Culinary Center filled up at 10 a.m. on Tuesday morning, 328 glasses of cabernet franc lit up the amphitheater like strands of single-color Christmas lights. It was a bit daunting for the 42 winemakers, winegrowers, industry professionals, newspaper writers, retailers and bloggers.

And that was just the first flight.

When the event (get some back story) finally ended three hours later we had tasted through 13 Finger Lakes 2007 cabernet francs, 3 Loire Valley cabernet francs, one Long Island cabernet franc, and 5 Finger Lakes 2007 reserve cabernet francs. Wine writer Holly Howell even brought her own gift for the group, a 2002 Loire that was just beautiful.

On this blog and in other forms of media we'll be hearing from retailers -- who have to sell the wine -- and writers who will share their own ideas. And I'm sure we'll hear from industry professionals. Here are some of my takeaways from an undeniably successful event:

Finger Lakes cabernet franc has a recognizable style.

It was pretty remarkable to see that the participants had no trouble discerning which wines were from the Finger Lakes and which were not. Cabernet franc has a local identity, which is important.

It's not always good, though. Some of the wines gave off odd, citrusy flavors (others referred to this as a persistent sour cherry note), and some of the wines still lacked depth and weight -- even from a ripe vintage like 2007. But the best of the group were balanced with bright cherry, black pepper, and grilled herbs, and the very best added layers of mouthfeel that extended the finish of the wine.

The top-scoring wine was the Ravines Wine Cellars 2007 Cabernet Franc, and its appeal was best summarized by Fox Run assistant winemaker Tricia Renshaw. She remarked, before seeing the bottle revealed, "This is a delicious wine with great mouthfeel." 

Can it be coincidental that the top-scoring wines were among the lowest-cropped wines? Yes, under-cropping can be an issue, but as one winemaker pointed out during the event, "The lower the yield, the more weight cabernet franc seems to have. You can't get that mouthfeel with over-cropped vines." 

One winemaker confessed to me, in confidence, that recently they weren't careful and ended up with 7 tons per acre of cabernet franc. "Not only was the wine not very good, but there was a huge amount of it!" he said.

Local winemakers do not seem to enjoy wines from other regions.

This statement is a little broad-sweeping and probably a touch unfair, and maybe it will get some backlash, but I can't help it.

The bottom two wines based on score were the 2005 Charles Joguet Chinon (Dioterie cuvee, $36) and the 2005 Domaine des Vallettes Bourgueil ($12). The other non-FL wine, the Shinn Estate Vineyards 2007(Long Island), finished in the bottom half of the scoring pack.

Ah, but break down the numbers: Retailers and writers rated the Chinon and Shinn in the top 6 wines, while wine industry professionals had them way down the list.

Having now tasted the Shinn, I can say that I find all the hype for this wine to be absolutely justified. That's why I couldn't figure out why the majority of local wine professionals didn't care for it, and I wonder if there's a bit of "house palate syndrome" going on.

Granted, this is a small sample size to choose from. The Chinon bore some Brett character, and some in the audience said it was over-the-top. I simply hope that local professionals don't equate foreign wines with lesser quality -- simply because they're different.

(I also make this assertion based on my exposure to many industry professionals who have rarely tasted wines from other regions. Many of the best local winemakers seek out wines from around the world, but I also see some who don't seem to be curious or interested in wines that are not from the Finger Lakes).

Getting retailers and winemakers together is a wonderful idea and should happen more often.

How often do we complain about retailers' lack of knowledge about Finger Lakes wines? Well, these events will break down that barrier. Some of the most astute comments came from the retailers who have to sell the wines. By the time we all left, many people were wondering why an organization like the New York Wine and Grape Foundation had never put together an event like this before.

We'll do more of them, and I'd like to see retailer seminars. When they meet the people who grow and make the wine, they can take that experience right back to the consumer. It makes a difference. An enormous one. Which leads me to...

How the hell do you sell Finger Lakes cabernet franc? 

This tasting made it pretty clear that cabernet franc is just about an ideal food wine. That's not a pejorative, either. Some writers damn a wine with the faint praise that "perhaps it's a nice food wine," which is another way of saying, "This plonk can't stand on its own." That's not the case with Finger Lakes cabernet franc, but can you sell a wine by marketing it as a food wine?

I think you can. "The key word is balance," said Ravines winemaker Morten Hallgren. "We're not trying to overwhelm people with this wine. It's about balance." 

It made me envision a poster hanging in a retail shop. There's a high-wire with a bottle of Finger Lakes cabernet franc holding a rod and staying upright. Down below in the net is a pile of "off-balance" bottles. There is a simple slogan: "Don't lose balance with dinner tonight. Choose the right wine."

But Gavin Sacks of Cornell pointed out a larger challenge: cabernet franc is not a hedonistic grape compared to consumer favorites like cabernet sauvignon. And, as Gavin says, "A good rule in business is that you don't want to have to educate your customers about a product. You want it to be easy for them."

One thing that's easy for customers is oak. That could explain why the Keuka Spring Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Franc was loved by retailers and writers -- but not by wine professionals. It has a sweet leading edge, and in the KSV wine shop the description highlights that oak flavor. "Ultimately we have to make wine that people want to buy," notes winemaker Mark Wiltberger.

Sadly, cabernet franc is not ever going to be an easy sell. But it's worth the work to bring it to more tables. I love the grape, and while I don't love everything coming out of the Finger Lakes, there is real evidence that cab franc has a strong future here -- if anyone takes the time to buy it.

Note: If you're interested in the top half of the scores from Tuesday, they're listed below.

1. Ravines Wine Cellars 2007 Cabernet Franc

T2. Shalestone 2007 Cabernet Franc

T2. Billsboro 2007 Cabernet Franc

4. Red Newt Cellars 2007 Cabernet Franc

5. Keuka Spring Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Franc

T6. Hermann J. Wiemer 2007 Cabernet Franc

T6. Anthony Road 2007 Lemberger / Cabernet Franc

8. Damiani 2007 Cabernet Franc

Preparing to Examine 2007 Cabernet Franc From the Finger Lakes

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor

Tomorrow is an exciting and important day for cabernet franc and the Finger Lakes.

I've helped to organize a cabernet franc tasting at the New York Wine & Culinary Center (NYWCC). 16 wines will be tasted -- some from the Finger Lakes and some from other cabernet franc-producing regions.

The wines will be divided into two flights of 40 minutes each. We will then reveal the wines and their scores from the participants.

Following the tasting, the NYWCC will serve a sure-to-be excellent lunch, where we'll pour a non-blind flight of reserve cab francs from the Finger Lakes.

We expect nearly 40 people in attendance, with a combination of winemakers, industry professionals, writers, bloggers and retailers. In fact, the following writers will attend and participate, so you can seek out their coverage as well:

• Don Cazentre, Syracuse Post-Standard
• Jennifer Baskerville-Barrows, Cookin' in the 'Cuse, Edible Finger Lakes
• Holly Howell, multiple publications
• Rob Lane, Finger Lakes Weekend Wino, Mountain Home Magazine
• Tom Mansell, Ithacork
• Neil Miller, Stressing the Vine
• Thomas Pellechia, VinoFictions
• Tom Tucker, Balloon Juice

The creator of this concept is Neil Miller, publisher of the blog Stressing the Vine. He and Anthony Road assistant winemaker Peter Becraft have worked extremely hard on this event, and we hope it accomplishes the following:

1. Exposes more writers and retailers to Finger Lakes cabernet franc from a strong vintage
2. Provides some insight into how this vintage is showing -- not only in comparing winery to winery, but in comparing Finger Lakes wines to highly regarded cabernet franc from other regions
3. Allows winemakers the chance to communicate with one another and with members of the media and retail trade

I imagine some critics might argue that we're cherry-picking an excellent vintage while ignoring other lesser vintages. Not so. While it's true, we're trying to see how cabernet franc fares when the weather is nearly ideal, this is hardly cherry-picking. That's because we're not saying this is what cab franc will be every single year; we're saying that this was an excellent year, so let's see what Finger Lakes potential truly means for the grape.

And while '07 was a strong vintage, it's not crazy to think we could see similar heat again (2009, er, notwithstanding).

It's also quite possible that the participants will find the '07 vintage to be a letdown. Warm weather is no guarantee for great wines. Growing practices continue to lag in many vineyards and winemaking technique varies from place to place.

The NYWCC has been more than generous in providing space, glassware and expertise for this event. While we don't assume it will be a definitive answer regarding that varietal and that vintage, it will certainly be instructive.

And, I'm guessing, a hell of a lot of fun.

Video: Anthony Road Wine Co: Noble Rot, High Brix Levels Present in 2008 Dessert Wines

By Melissa Dobson, Finger Lakes News Correspondent

Last Saturday, Rich and I attended the 7th Annual Martini-Reinhardt Selection Grazing Gala at Anthony Road Wine Company. From our first trip to visit the winery last fall, the crisp, clean lineup of wines and the welcoming personalities behind them pushed them to our list of favorites here in the Finger Lakes. That's no small feat considering that we have encountered a good amount of nice wines and friendly people along the way.

What continues to impress me is the laser-sharp focus and vision of winemaker Johannes Reinhardt.  Johannes is soft-spoken with an enchanting way about him that draws you in. Both he and his wife, Imelda have a talent for making you feel as though you're the only person in the room when they're speaking with you. Their passion for each other's happiness as well as for their shared belief in the need to push for consistent, quality-focused wines in the Finger Lakes region is evident and admirable.

The M-RS Grazing Gala featured hors d'oeuvres and small plates prepared by Red Newt Bistro's Deb Whiting with each plate paired with a select Anthony Road wine. 

Just prior to the dessert course, owner Ann Martini asked Johannes to speak to attendees about conditions and winemaking details of the 2008 dessert wines.  As I mentioned in this week's "What We Drank" post, they will be available in bottle within the next 2-3 months.

24 Years of Dr. Konstantin Frank Riesling

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

On Sunday I had the unique privilege of tasting ten rieslings from Dr. Frank's Vinifera Wine Cellars, ranging in date from 2008 all the way back to 1985.

While several other Finger Lakes wineries offered riesling library tastings as part of Riesling Month, virtually no other can reach as far back as Dr. Frank's, which has bottles dating from the 1960s. In this sense, Dr. Frank's provides an historical perspective on the region's potential.

Fred Frank, president of the winery, explained that the wines included in the tasting were not selected based on any notion of vintage quality and ageability. Instead, he related that the winery had varying numbers of bottles reserved from each vintage. With a trade tasting and a consumer tasting both scheduled on the same day, it was necessary to select those vintages that could spare a few bottles and still retain some stock down cellar.

Such practical considerations made for an interesting flight, as the vintages represented both the extremes of the Finger Lakes, hot and dry versus cool and wet, and many points in-between.

The wines tasted, in order, were: 2008 Dry Riesling, 2007 Dry Riesling, 2005 Dry Riesling, 2001 Reserve Riesling, 1991 Dry Riesling, 1988 Dry Riesling, 1987 Dry Riesling, 1985 Dry Riesling, 2007 Semi-Dry Riesling, and the 1995 Semi-Dry Riesling.

The Dry Rieslings

There are nearly an endless number of observations that can be made when one approaches a tasting that has so many variables attached to it. At the most basic level, all of the wines were interesting and enjoyable, which is a result that should never be taken for granted.

Starting with the newer vintages, I detected the flavors and descriptions that are often attached to a Finger Lakes riesling. In the 2008, 2007 and 2005 dry rieslings, the noses had hints of apple blossom, followed by tastes of melon and citrus backed with varying degrees of acidity and minerality.

As I have observed in the past with many other Finger Lakes rieslings from 2007, this wine was all about fruit but with less acidity and minerality, a combination that I do not enjoy as thoroughly. Of the more recent vintages, the 2005 was definitely the strongest, with an almost perfect balance of minerality and fruit and a full mouthfeel. The 2008 was very good but still in bottle shock, so future judgments await.

When we jumped from the 2005 to the 2001, the nose and flavors shifted considerably. The 2001 had a mellow fruit component, more akin to pear than melon or critrus. I also detected a hint of honey and toasty herbs. The wine possessed tremendous backbone and a compelling but austere finish.

 Skipping another ten years, the 1991 exploded with similar toast and honey flavors, striking the mid-palate with a viscous butterscotch that dripped into a long finish that evolved and evolved. This was an excellent and well-aged wine that exhibited complexities that one might not associate with a newer riesling.

The 1988 and the 1987 were somewhat similar and in that sense exciting. Both wines showed the butterscotch flavor, although the nose on the 1988 was a bit sharper (it reminded me of mint) and also had a lingering finish. The 1987 had just a touch of petrol (the only wine to really show this quality) and had a finish that did not linger but was narrow, well-defined, and drying.

We arrived at the 1985 with the anticipation that enthusiasts naturally lend to the oldest wine in a group. Unfortunately, the floral nose led to a wine that had passed its prime. A second bottle was opened, to a similar effect. Fred Frank expressed some measured disappointment and began to show us the corks from these bottles which were intact but obviously pushed to their limits. Some oxidation likely occurred, but the wine was still drinkable and worth considering. As I stated to one of my tasting companions, "A dying good wine is better than a new bad one."

Of course the 1984, if tasted, could have been wonderful, or maybe an even older vintage as well. Or perhaps a third bottle of 1985 might have done the trick. This isn't an exact science! All in all, I was very happy that we tasted to nearly 25 years with some amazing results.

The Semi-Dry Wines

The winery reserved the two semi-dry rieslings for the end of the tasting believing that they would have a different overall profile. For the most part, this predication held true. The 2007 semi-dry riesling was a knockout, with powerful lemon and citrus flavors backed by a touch of sweetness and hint of acidity and minerality. This wine was in tremendous balance and demonstrated to me, again, that on the whole I prefer 2007 semi-dry reislings to their dry counterparts from the same vintage. This wine is a must-have.

The 1995 semi-dry riesling was like molasses wrapped in fruit, possessing a solid structure and tremendous mouthfeel that led to a pleasing and lingering finish. This wine was an example of what a slightly sweet aged riesling can accomplish, and I wish we had not tasted this last as I think it might have held up very well in direct comparison to some of the dry riesling results in vintage order.

Conclusions and Observations

It's difficult to come to any specific conclusions about this exercise. As in all large tastings I felt humbled by the varying tastes and questioned constantly my ability to sort through all of the sensory information. Based on the conversations during the tasting, however, most of the participants reached similar conclusions about the general shift in aromas and flavors as the vintages became older. 

I am now more convinced than ever that a well-made riesling can easily age 10-20 years and that riesling can take on an entirely different characteristics between the 10 and 20 year mark. Based on this experience and others, I dare say that Finger Lakes rieslings can age and they age well, offering a new dynamic to an already complex and satisfying white.

Which of the wines was the most significant stand-out? I'd have to say that the 1991 was the most interesting in that its complex tastes and aromatic qualities formed a perfect bridge between the elements of a newer rieslings and the intense flavors of an older version. The wine was just so perfect right now.

Fred Frank graciously revealed that the 1991 riesling was made in large part by Peter Bell, currently the head winemaker at Fox Run Vineyards.

...and a little surprise...

At the very end of the tasting, the group was treated to a yet-to-be-released 2008 Late Harvest Riesling made in the traditional Trockenbeerenauslese style.

Wow.

The botrytis just plain kissed these grapes, providing a sweetness of such depth and luxury that I wanted to demand another glass. Yes, the wine is that good even in its newly-bottled youth.

The winery is unsure of the eventual release price, and while I would hope that the wine remains affordable, I imagine they will find some buyers who are willing to take the plunge.

Rumor has it that 2008 was a great year for late harvest and ice wines. If Dr. Frank's late harvest is typical of the vintage than these wines will be prized indeed.

Coming Soon: Video Blog From the Sheldrake Point Vineyard Riesling Vertical

 

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Correspondent

Photo Courtesy of Sheldrake Point Vineyard

While attending Sheldrake Point Vineyard's riesling vertical this past weekend, I used my new Flip video camera for the first time. I sat down with winemaker Dave Breeden, and the video will be posted shortly.

Among the topics we discussed:

• Sheldrake's vertical featured semi-dry riesling, not dry riesling. Why? Which style does Dave prefer to lay down?
• Are we, as a wine community, too concerned that a bottle will pass its mythical "peak?" How can you tell when peak is approaching?
• How did the Sheldrake wines show?

Because this is my first vlog, I'm not certain how it will turn out, but we'll soon see.

Holding Back: the 2009 Riesling Rendezvous

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

Last year, at the 2008 Riesling Rendevouz event at the beautiful New York Wine and Culinary Center, I had the distinct pleasure of tasting a great many 2007 rieslings. In fact, few of the 40 plus wineries at last year's event were not pouring their 2007 rieslings.

I was able to sample so many 2007 rieslings at this single event last year that I felt confident enough to proclaim familiarity with the vintage before summer even started.

The 2009 Riesling Rendevouz provided a slightly different story. All of the trappings were the same: the nice tasting setups, the great food, and the same fun and informative staff. As I moved from tasting booth to tasting booth, however, I soon learned that unlike its predecessor, the 2009 version of the Riesling Rendevouz would not provide me with many opportunities to try the newest vintage. In fact, all told, I had only 4 or 5 new 2008 rieslings. Almost all the wineries were pouring their 2007 rieslings, and a quite a few were still pouring some 2006 rieslings!

This result left me with mixed feelings. On one hand, I wanted to share the excitement of a new vintage and begin to taste and judge its qualities. On the other, I can't help but applaud a development that shows a bit of maturity for the region as a whole. I think.

I checked the date of last year's event, and it was held at least a week-and-a-half earlier, so there is no doubt that wineries are consciously holding on to their 2008 rieslings.

The reason for this development could fall into two main possibilities: either the region has decided not to rush its new vintages, taking the time to harvest and ferment a little later, leaving some extended time in tank, and maybe even possibly holding on to their wines once bottled to avoid tasting and selling shocked wines; or, perhaps everyone has a ton of 2006 and 2007 rieslings in stock and they need to push them out the door before they even think about selling the 2008s.

The pragmatist in me thinks it is a combination of both. Either way, I see no reason why we always want the newest Finger Lakes rieslings RIGHT NOW when so many wine regions around the world hold on to their whites just a touch longer and hold on to their reds for several years. On the whole, this might be a good development for the region which signifies increasing quality.

The few 2008s I did try were very good but hard to describe as of yet. Anthony Road Wine Company's winemaker Johannes Reinhardt calls the vintage "beautiful" and the best he's seen in his tenure at the Finger Lakes. Ravines Wine Cellars' winemaker Morten Hallgren was also adamant about the quality of the vintage, explaining to me that the structure is very intact but that the fruit was also present and in balance, a nearly-perfect vintage after the steely wines of 2006 and very ripe wines of 2007.

We shall see. I am looking forward to tasting more 2008 rieslings.

As always, I enjoyed the Riesling Rendevouz event, which I think is a marvelous opportunity for wine drinkers to be exposed to the quality of the region in a single evening. With so many wineries to visit, it sure is convenient to get a large sample all at once!

When a Song Tastes Like a Riesling. Finger Lakes Riesling.

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Correspondent
Photos by Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

Something special happened Friday night at the New York Wine Wine & Culinary Center, and the effects are likely to echo for a long time.

Every wine lover has a special bottle or two that stir vivid memories. Simply gazing at the label is enough to transport the owner to the time and place when the bottle was consumed. For me, there is one bottle of wine so special that I can picture the room in which I drank it when I see the label. When I hear the song that was playing at the time (David Grey's "Say Hello Wave Goodbye") I can literally taste the wine once more.

In the Finger Lakes, it has long been a challenge to elevate local wines to this unique place for the wider market. After all, most wines are sold not long after bottling, and most producers urge consumers to drink the wines when they are young. Many special wines can be laid down for a decade or more, and such patience doesn't simply preserve quality, it enhances it.

On Friday night, a trend gained momentum: Finger Lakes rieslings are showing gorgeously as they age, and the consuming public is finally gaining a chance to experience that.

I was honored to be asked to join a panel presenting Finger Lakes Rieslings at various stages of development. With an audience of about 30 -- an audience that was uniformly geeked out about local wines -- we tasted through eight rieslings. Here was the lineup:

• Dr. Frank's Vinifera Wine Cellars 1997 Dry Riesling
• Glenora Wine Cellars 2000 Dry Riesling
• Glenora Wine Cellars 2001 Dry Riesling
• Red Newt Cellars 2002 Dry Riesling
• Red Newt Cellars 2003 Dry Riesling
• Hermann J. Wiemer 2003 Dry Riesling Reserve
• Ravines Wine Cellars 2004 Dry Riesling
• Fox Run Vineyards 2004 Riesling

Anyone who doubts the lifespan of Finger Lakes rieslings ought to have watched the audience taste the 1997 Dr. Frank. It was like inviting a group of people to a book reading and having them read Hemingway for the first time.

Unfortunately, I found the Glenora offerings to be a mess -- slightly off-tasting, oniony and not varietally typical -- though many in the audience enjoyed them as well. But it was the Red Newt 2002 that reached up out of the glass and delivered a knockout blow to me.

As we learned last week with a veritcal of older Wiemer rieslings, 1999 and 2002 Finger Lakes rieslings are showing historically special characteristics. This wine had more layers than a kindergartner waiting for the bus on a winter day in Fargo. Even better, winemaker Dave Whiting says there are at least 10 cases still in existence and some is for sale in the Red Newt Bistro.

Comparing the pair of 2003s and 2004s was a blast, as each wine was made with fruit from different sources and made by winemakers with different techniques. I am deeply intrigued to see where the Ravines style of Dry Riesling goes as it ages, as it marks the driest of Finger Lakes riesling (0.3% RS).

The panel convened by the NYWCC's Shannon Brock, did a fabulous job, and I was simply trying not to get in the way. Wine educator Lorraine Hems is a natural, and Ravines' winemaker Morten Hallgren addressed a variety of thoughtful questions.

As a bonus, Red Newt's Whiting was in the audience to offer insight, as was Fox Run's assistant winemaker Tricia Renshaw, and a longtime member of Dr. Frank's staff.

Nascent wine regions need decades to discover the true arc of aging for their best wines. Thanks to events like this one, we're seeing the Finger Lakes' best rieslings as they evolve into something that is occasionally extraordinary -- perhaps so extraordinary that you'll taste it and freeze the moment in your mind, recalling the music that was playing, the art on the walls, the company with whom you enjoyed the bottle. And perhaps in the future you will hear a song and, somehow, the music will taste like a Finger Lakes Riesling, evolving to tell yet another story when you open it once more.

Wineries Open Their Libraries With Older Finger Lakes Rieslings

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Correspondent
Photos by Morgan Dawson

It's about time.

See what I did there? Clever, right? I've been waiting for quite a while to see Finger Lakes wineries celebrate the aging potential of their rieslings, and many are finally doing it. It's about time. I've also been encouraging my friends to lay a few bottles down or seek out older bottles -- it's about, well, time.

More than anything else, tasting older wines is pure fun. The wine is not only a snapshot of a given year; it's a story that has changed over the years. It shares new things.

This Friday evening I'm honored to be part of a panel that will focus on library rieslings. That panel convenes during the Rendezvous with Riesling, the annual showcase held at the New York Wine and Culinary Center in Canandaigua. The Rendezvous begins at 7pm. Tickets are $55, and $95 if you want to attend the panel and tasting of library Rieslings. The Rendezvous is going to be a blast and I hope you can join us.

But beyond the Rendezvous, a handful of Finger Lakes wineries are hosting vertical tastings of their own library Rieslings. The first came last Saturday at Hermann J. Wiemer on Seneca Lake.

Winemaker Fred Merwarth poured the last 10 Dry Rieslings released by the winery, including a tank sample of the 2008 vintage (Wiemer '08 Rieslings are still fermenting, as is normal for this producer).

Here are some tasting notes:

• The showstopper was the 1999, which turned the trick of tasting like a more mature riesling (some brioche and sweet almond character) while maintaining freshness and zip. It's got plenty left but is rocking.
• The 2002 could eventually top the '99. It is absolutely ripping in its acidity, and just starting to move beyond riesling adolescence.
• Several of these wines are Diesel. As in, bringing the petrol, which I love.
• The 2003 brought some layered richness and was a top pick for many at the tasting.
• The 2006 was a letdown by comparison, but is certainly built to evolve.

Collectively, these wines maintained that classic Finger Lakes cut. They were fresh enough that I would likely have not placed any of them as older than four years or so in a blind tasting (with the exception of the '99).

Then Merwarth offered a bonus: He poured the '99 Late Harvest Riesling and the 1990 (!) Dry Riesling. The '99 offered a lesson in riesling evolution -- it tasted like a creamy pastry, an almond-flavored bearclaw, with some tropical fruit accents. After having to discard several half-bottles of oxidized 1990, Merwarth found plenty still alive. The electricity had mellowed, but the wine was a graceful image of Riesling, an elder statesman with richness. It was generous of Fred to pour it, but then, many winemakers have such a love of sharing their wines that it becomes difficult to put the corkscrew away.

We were impressed that Fred took the time to dig up and present all of the harvest notes, which helped tell the story of each wine. He was able to describe the weather for each vintage, harvest dates, and the breakdown of how much Riesling came from each of Wiemer's three vineyards. It's also fair to say that not every winery is making wines that are structured to age like Wiemer's. Low yields, older vines and careful management all contribute to a wine's ageability.

There are more Finger Lakes library tastings to come. Here is a short list, and it is growing:

• Saturday, May 16: Tasting of the previous four vintages of riesling at Anthony Road. All day long in the winemaking facility. Free.
• Sunday, May 31: Tasting of the previous 20 vintages of riesling at Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars. Call ahead for reservations. $30 per person or $50 per couple.
• Sunday, May 31: Tasting of several vintages of library riesling at Sheldrake Point. Call ahead for reservations. Two seatings: 1pm and 2:30 pm. $25 per person.

May is Riesling Month in the Finger Lakes Wine Country

May is Riesling Month in Finger Lakes Wine Country and, while the name could use some work, it looks like a great program.

Throughout the month of May, many Finger Lakes wineries, restaurants and hotels will be offering special deals. The goings on are too numerous to list in a single blog post (you can see them here) but here are some of the highlights:

Free Shipping on Riesling (All Month)
Several Finger Lakes wineries will be offering free shipping on riesling purchases through their websites. Unfortunately, some wineries missed the point here and want you to buy an entire case to get free shipping. Lame. See the list of participating wineries

Rieslings in Riedel at Rooster Hill Winery (All Month)
Visitors in the tasting room will be able to do a side-by-side tasting of the winery's semi-dry and dry rieslings in both the regular tasting room glasses and glasses that Riedel produces specifically for riesling. I'm not a believer in varietal glassware yet, but this should be interesting. Visit Rooster Hill's website for details.

Ravines Wine Cellars Winemaker Dinner at La Tourelle Resort in Ithaca (May 1&2)
Ravines' co-owner and winemaker, Morten Hallgren, is one of my favorite makers of Finger Lakes riesling, so this dinner, which includes 4 courses for $75 should be outstanding. Visit the Ravines website for more information.

Winemaker's Riesling Dinner at Fox Run Vineyards (May 9)
Owner Scott Osborn and winemaker Peter Bell will lead diners through a special riesling-focused meal. Visit the Fox Run website to make your reservation.

10-Year Riesling Vertical at Wiemer Vineyard (May 9)
It's not every day that you get a chance to taste a decade's worth of riesling from one of the Finger Lakes' best producers. I wish I could make the drive up for this one. RSVP required via the Wiemer website.

Riesling Rendezvous at the New York Wine & Culinary Center (May 15)
This walk-about tasting offers the chance to taste riesling from more than 40 New York wineries paired with local cuisine and includes a special tasting of older-vintage rieslings. Tickets are $55 via nywcc.com.

Future, Present and Past Rieslings at Sheldrake Point Vineyard (May 31)
 Join winemaker David Breeden and taste rieslings from several vintages, including a preview of the unreleased 2008 rieslings and library wines that are no longer available anywhere else. Tickets required via Sheldrake Point's website.

Again, you can see a full list of the events here.

I probably won't be able to take part in any of the above events, but I will be able to attend the trade-only Riesling Summit at the Astor Center next Tuesday. The Summit includes a guided tasting that will compare the best Finger Lakes rieslings with those from other top regions in the world, followed by the Aromatic White Wine Showcase, a walk-around tasting of Finger Lakes aromatic whites that will include currently available 2007 wines, special samples of soon-to-be-released 2008 wines and several older vintages.

2009 Golden Nose Awards Suspended

By Melissa Dobson, Finger Lakes News Correspondent

The Seneca Lake Wine Trail has quietly suspended one of their most popular events of the year, the 2009 Golden Nose Awards Weekend, scheduled for May 30, 2009.

“Despite how enthusiastic past attendees have been, and ostensibly driven by the weakened economy, ticket sales were not quite as robust as in years past, so rather than try to run the event with measurably diminished attendance, we have opted to quietly suspend the event and focus on the 2010 Golden Nose Award event," stated Paul Thomas, executive director of the Seneca Lake Wine Trail.

The 2008 Golden Nose Awards was one of the first Finger Lakes wine events I attended so it is near and dear to me.

A post detailing my experience at last year's event continues to rank as one of the most visited on my blog, so it seems that the economy truly is what has stagnated this year's sales, not a lack of interest.

First Social Media Basics Workshop Held in Finger Lakes Wine Country

 

By Melissa Dobson, Finger Lakes News Correspondent

What exactly are Facebook and Twitter? Do these platforms offer benefits to small businesses like wineries? 

These are questions that are asked of the Finger Lakes Wine Country Tourism Marketing team quite frequently. And after I also noticed a swell of interest in social media from businesses here, Morgen McLaughlin and I presented a full-day workshop to provide an overview of the most popular social media platforms including Facebook, Twitter, YouTube and Flickr. 

Of the 60 attendees, more than half represented local wineries, and several others were in the tourism business. Our goal was to familiarize attendees with the platforms and their ability to help attract eyeballs and online word of mouth in a cost-effective medium that is seen as an equalizer for small businesses and a great way to keep on the radar of customers.

After leading with facts and figures of the social media landscape, I showed a video from a recent Fox Business News report highlighting Ford Motor Company's use of social media conversations to engage their customers, ran through what social media is vs. what it isn't, showed videos of Seth Godin and Gary Vaynerchuk demonstrating social media best practices, and presented worst practices to avoid. 

During the interactive workshop, we talked through the platforms and demonstrated a live Twitter  conversation with several wine "tweeps" (people on Twitter). We set up a new Twitter profile live for one of the participants and many others in the room followed along on their laptops and set up their own new profiles.

The afternoon was devoted primarily to Facebook. Morgen McLaughlin presented Facebook metrics relating to the Finger Lakes Wine Country fan pages and group pages. We demonstrated how to set up pages, share information to promote others (one of my favorite features) and how to link to other business pages within Facebook. 

Another key topic was the wine blogosphere and how to best engage with bloggers. We concluded with my assessment of where the wineries and businesses of the Finger Lakes region currently stand in terms of social media adoption. We understand that our region is taking initial steps and has some catching up to do but I've already noticed that many of our workshop attendees really are excited and jumping into the social media pool. 

I had several people approach me after the workshop with enthusiasm about getting their social media presence established to engage their fans and create "raving fans" and "tribes" of their own.

PALATE 2009: A Multi-Vintage Finger Lakes Cabernet Franc Tasting

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

The eternal debate among those who follow Finger Lakes wines, and even among those who don't, is whether the red wines can hold their own. Critics point to numerous examples of flat, unripe wines and castigate the entire category, virtually ignoring any promise shown by a handful of outliers. Proponents of Finger Lakes reds cite improving quality and, in their promotion of cool-climate potential, take advantage of the growing sentiment among wine enthusiasts that many California and Australian reds are too ripe, too alcoholic, and just plain overpowering.

Whether or not Finger Lakes reds have yet to arrive as a clear alternative, cabernet franc is widely considered to be the variety that shows the best quality and consistency of the Vitis vinifera reds grown in the region. When I was asked recently to host a tasting for the PALATE 2009 event, it occurred to me that by focusing on what may be the region's best red grape, I could draw attention to the main variable -- vintage -- and perhaps draw some general conclusions.

 On Sunday, February 22, I, with a group of tasters descended, upon Glenora on Seneca Lake, guided through technical matters by Fox Run Vineyards winemaker Peter Bell and his assistant winemaker Tricia Renshaw. Our goal was to taste a flight of cabernet franc from six different wineries, tasting an '05, an '06, and an '07 from each.

The reason I selected those vintages is simple: 2005 was warm and hospitable, an ideal vintage overall; 2006 was cool and damp, good for riesling but leaving many other varieties with issues; and 2007 was hot and dry, and by hot and dry I mean darn hot and dry, a vintage made for reds in a way the Finger Lakes rarely sees.

The group tried wines from Damiani Wine Cellars, Fox Run, Glenora, Lamoreaux Landing, Ravines Wine Cellars, and Red Newt Cellars. During the three-hour event, I implored the group to share their impressions while Peter and Tricia graciously answered questions about varietals, vintages, closures, winemaking, and all kinds of general topics.

To cycle through every aspect we approached in the tasting of these 17 wines (Red Newt did not produce a 2006 cabernet franc) would require a very long post. Since the point of this exercise was to consider vintage and winemaking choices, I am not going to highlight what were, in my opinion, the best wines, although I can say with confidence that the majority of the wines were good to very good.

So, what did the group find?

PALATE Update: Comparative Tasting Co-Hosted by LENNDEVOURS and Atwater Estate

Jason introduced the PALATE festival a couple weeks ago, but I have some exciting news about the upcoming food, wine and art festival in Corning, NY.

As part of PALATE's programming, I'll be co-hosting a tasting with winemaker Vinny Aliperti on Wednesday, February 18 at 11 a.m at Atwater Estate Vineyards in Hector, NY. Vinny is Atwater's winemaker and also owns Billsboro Winery in Geneva.

We'll be doing a comparative tasting of wines made from the same varieties, from the same years, by the same winemaker -- but from different vineyards. It will be interesting to see how the wines differ and are similar when tasting Atwater Estate Vineyards and Billsboro Winery offerings side-by-side.

Specifically, we'll compare the following from each winery:

• 2007 Dry Riesling
• 2008 Dry Riesling (tank samples)
• 2007 Cabernet Franc
• 2007 Pinot Noir

Admission is free and exclusive for those with PALATE passes. You can purchase tickets online or call 800.813.2958.

The details haven't been hammered out yet, but it looks as though two more LENNDEVOURS contributors, Jason Feulner and Evan Dawson, may be co-hosting more tastings later in the week. Stay tuned for more information.

My blog buddy Rob over at Finger Lakes Weekend Wino will be co-hosting a tasting with his 2008 Winery of the Year, Shaw Vineyards, later in the week as well.

New York Shows Off Its Ice Wine During the First New York Ice Wine Festival

By Melissa Dobson, Finger Lakes News Correspondent

Mention ice wine and most everyone thinks of Canada and the Niagara Ice Wine Festival held each year in Niagara-On-The-Lake, now in its 14th year. Although Niagara On-the-Lake, Ontario may be the first region to come to mind, New York's producers are looking to show off their offerings and educate wine lovers on the distinctiveness of their ice wines during the first New York Ice Wine Festival being held at Casa Larga Vineyards in Fairport, NY just outside of Rochester.

Kicking off on February 8, 2009 and running through the month of February, the New York Ice Wine Festival provides an opportunity to taste and get-to-know some of the top ice wines in New York State, specifically those from Casa Larga, Hunt Country Vineyards and Sheldrake Point Vineyards.  Although best-known for riesling, cabernet franc and merlot, many in the industry have identified a real opportunity for the New York wine industry in their ice wines. 

As Lenn mentioned previously, recent accolades include Best Dessert Wine trophy for Casa Larga's 2005 Fiori Vidal Ice Wine at the 2008 International Wine & Spirits Competition in London and a score of 90-points by James Molesworth of the Wine Spectator for Standing Stone Vineyards 2007 Vidal Ice Wine.

Highlights of the festival include:

• February 8th (12:00-5:00 PM)-Fire & Ice Festival at Casa Larga Vineyards
• February 12th (6:30 PM)-An Evening with the New York Ice Wine Makers
• February 16th (7:00 PM)-"It's an Ice Wine World" Seminar
• February 27th (6:30 PM)-Fiori Gala Dinner

One last reason to attend -- to support your local wineries and contribute to the economy of New York State. 

PALATE Promises to be a Winter Warmer

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

I grew up in Corning, NY, on the southern edge of the Finger Lakes. It has always been a great small city with a tremendous amount of beauty and culture. Every year, throngs of tourists stroll through the world-famous glass museum, visit the quaint shops on Market Street, and enjoy various outdoor music and art festivals.

Of course, that all takes place in the spring and summer. Recently, I was surprised to see an announcement that Finger Lakes Wine Country and Corning's Gaffer District were hosting a week-long wine event called PALATE from February 16 through the 22.

As far as I know, nothing ever goes in Corning in the winter! (Well, I do remember going to high school and shoveling the driveway...).

I caught up with Finger Lakes Wine Country president Morgen McLaughlin and asked her about the thinking behind a week-long winter event. "We are trying to increase off-season visitation. PALATE is in the spirit of the Mustard Festival in Napa, which is actually two-months long."

The name PALATE refers to the genres of wine, food, and art, all three of which will be incorporated into the 2009 celebration as well as the annual tradition that McLaughlin and her fellow planners hope to establish. The itinerary on the website is still under construction, but the week will include barrel tastings from several Finger Lakes wineries, food and wine tastings at Market Street restaurants, wine presentations by local experts and enthusiasts, a live music crawl, and even a screening of Merlove, an off-beat documentary for wine lovers.

McLaughlin expects at least 300-400 attendees for PALATE, although the focus this year is not on numbers and broad marketing but on creating an event that can build upon itself year after year. She has high hopes for the future of off-season wine festivals in the Finger Lakes.

I will be attending at least some portion of Palate with a great deal of enthusiasm as I will get to experience Finger Lakes wine as well as visit my mom and dad: a wonderful combination. Warm weather or cold, Corning is always a delight to visit any time of year.

Finger Lakes Wine: Will Old Wines Mean New Respect?

By Melissa Dobson, Finger Lakes News Correspondent

In an effort to continue to establish the Finger Lakes wine region as a producer of world-class wine, a first-time older vintage tasting of almost 70 wines produced from 1988-2003 will be held tomorrow, Friday, November 14, 2008 at Red Newt Cellars and Bistro on Seneca Lake.

This tasting of a diverse collection of wines from past vintages is an important step for the wineries of the Finger as they travel the road toward carving out a place amongst the top wine regions of the world. Prior to this effort, there was no strong collaborative of wineries looking ahead to take the steps necessary to put themselves in line for consideration in future Wine Spectator Vintage Charts.

Now there is a strong desire to carefully plot a path toward becoming a recognized world-class wine region with strategies that include establishing a vintage chart via the older vintage tasting and Wine Spectator submission.

The idea of an older-vintage tasting of Finger Lakes wines was born when Morgen McLaughlin, President of Finger Lakes Wine Country Tourism Marketing Association, picked up a copy of the Wine Spectator 2008 Vintage Chart and noticed that Washington, Oregon and California were included in it, but not New York or the Finger Lakes. She then called Wine Spectator's senior editor and Finger Lakes wine reviewer, James Molesworth to get more specifics on why the Finger Lakes region was left off the the vintage chart.

Among the reasons he gave were that "the vast majority of Finger Lakes wines are meant for immediate consumption, and the handful of rieslings that might show well with bottle age doesn't create enough of a critical mass to warrant a historical record via a vintage chart." And "if I feel like a body of wines I'm tasting every year suddenly merits a vintage chart, or if I feel like the readers are clamoring for one, I'll certainly take it into consideration..."

So with those guiding words and a visit to James Molesworth's office to discuss the logistics of putting the Finger Lakes older vintage tasting together for submission to Wine Spectator, several wineries in the region opened their wine libraries up to submit their wines for this momentous tasting.

Although these older vintage wines are rather rare in the Finger Lakes, there will be a strong showing of wines including:

The 2008 Riesling Shoot-Out

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

Events sometimes receive an exclamatory billing only to draw attention to an antithetical subtext. The title of the "Riesling Shoot-Out," the brainchild of John Zuccarino of Silver Springs Winery and wine author Thomas Pellechia, evokes a line-in-the-sand Wild West gun fight between Finger Lakes and German rieslings, with only the biggest and baddest wines left standing to proclaim victory.

Of course, the results were far more mixed, and therein lies the point.

The big critics and the publications they work for consider Germany the home of riesling and treat her wines well, giving many a score above the coveted 90-point mark. As this website and others have noted, great wines from the Finger Lakes often hit a ceiling of 88 or 89 points, begging observers to ask, "How can so many Finger Lakes rieslings can get so close to 90 but no standouts emerge from the pack?"

It's a question that both Lenn and I have asked here on LENNDEVOURS as well.

Last Saturday, a panel of 16 judges representing wine blogs, local media, two major wine publications, and even the New England chapter of the German Wine Society, descended on Glenora's hotel and dining facility on Seneca Lake to blind taste a round of 15 rieslings. I was privileged to be one of the sixteen judges.

We tasted the 15 wines, three glasses at a time, in the same order. The organizers told us that these wines were all rieslings, and that they represented Germany, the Finger Lakes, and a single Canadian outlier. No other information was given.

The judging sheet asked us to provide some general impressions about aromatics and varietal taste, and then asked us to give a numeric score on the 100-point scale.

After the tasting was complete, the organizers revealed that there were two repeats (a 2006 Wiemer and a 2006 Prejean, both Finger Lakes wines) in the 15 wine program, so we had really only tasted 13 wines. All of the judges immediately realized, with some mix of humor and horror, that we all had given different scores to the same two wines, with a few of us granting wildly different scores.

At the end of the post I will list the wines tasted during the competition. The general results exhibit what many would expect: the Finger Lakes held up just fine. Four of the six Finger Lakes wines received scores of 90 or above with a total of twelve votes for this distinction divided amongst the four wines. Five German wines received scores of 90 or above, with 15 total votes divided between these rieslings. The Canadian wine received two scores of 90 or above.

The Wiemer and Prejean were the Finger Lakes standouts. The German wines with the most 90+ acclaim were the Donnhoff and the Messmer.

Riedel in the Finger Lakes (Part II)

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

On the morning of Friday, August 22 the Finger Lakes Wine Alliance hosted a closed tasting of winemakers and critics at Sheldrake Point Vineyards on Cayuga Lake to determine which Riedel glass best exhibited the flavors and nuances of Finger Lakes Riesling.

Later that day, George Riedel continued his tour of the Finger Lakes with a public tasting at Glenora on Seneca Lake to see whether a mixture of wine enthusiasts and reporters -- including me -- would come to the same conclusion as the group of winemakers.

I approached this public tasting with an open mind, having never compared different Riedel glasses while drinking the same wine. I left with a mixed opinion but a new appreciation for the importance of stemware as part of the enjoyment of wine.

George Riedel opened the event with a summary of why he was in the Finger Lakes, a region that he feels is similar to the Riesling-producing regions of Europe. In a line that will be oft repeated by those in attendance, Riedel joked that "it is easier to find wine than gas" in the Finger Lakes, which is in fact quite true. Overall, George Riedel made the audience feel as if he saw a great deal of potential in the rural but dynamic and emerging Finger Lakes wine scene.

The tasting, which Riedel led the group through sniff by sniff and sip by sip, was relatively simple. Before each participant were seven glasses laid out on a Riedel tasting mat, pre-arranged by the Riedel staff. The first glass, on the left, was a small plastic cup. The rest were Riedel stems of various shapes and volumes spread out like a fan and located on their specific circles within the paper mat. 

We tasted three different wines, and after each tasting the audience voted for their favorite glass which was the one that brought out the best flavors and nuances of the wine. The Rieslings, tasted in order, were the 2006 Knapp Reserve, the 2006 Glenora and the 2006 Sheldrake Point.

As the tasting progressed, I could detect through rounds of sniffing and tasting the qualities that the different glasses brought out in the wines.  Some glasses provided more acidity, while others highlighted fruit, and some others minerality. In the case of each wine, the glass that seemed to curry the most favor with the participants was the one that balanced all of these elements.

In every round, glass no. 5 earned top honors, eventually winning the overall vote at 34. Glass no. 4 was a close second, earning 28 votes. On all but the Sheldrake riesling, I felt that glass no. 5 was the most appropriate choice. A later harvest Riesling, the Sheldrake had a higher residual sugar and a touch of botrytis which made it an unusual but interesting example to test against the prevailing glass.

Glass no. 5, officially known as Riedel #446/15 from the Restaurant collection, was also the primary selection of the Finger Lakes winemakers from the morning tasting. It seemed that this particular glass was an overwhelming favorite for highlighting Finger Lakes Riesling based on these two tastings.

George Riedel explained that smell contributes as much as 80% to the sensation of taste in our mouths, and if one accepts that premise then it is easy to see how the shape and thickness of glassware can manipulate or enhance the flavors we associate with wine. I smelled and tasted distinct notes within each glass and nearly all seemed distinguishable from one another. Of the six glasses before us, each added or detracted from the wine in a different fashion. The small plastic cup was dead and lacked all character.

Yet, while I felt that I smelled and tasted radical differences based on the glasses alone, any psychologist in attendance would have been able to note the allure of the "show" being performed before us. George Riedel spoke quickly and confidently through each and every glass, suggesting his own interpretations of what he detected on his nose and palate. Almost from the beginning, I assumed that the glass we chose would come from the geographic middle of the controlled lineup, which it did, and would neither be the tallest or shortest glass, which it was not.

Beyond these reservations, I walked away convinced that glassware does have a huge effect on taste. For instance, I never considered how the shape of a glass makes us tilt it way back, a little, or not at all to engage our olfactory senses, and I believe that many variables like this contribute something to our wine experience. How could they not?

I am not prepared to spend a fortune on Riedel glassware, but I must admit I am intrigued by what I smelled and tasted under the direct guidance of George Riedel, who was kind enough to let us depart with our tasting set. I am planning on repeating the experiment with some innocent victims in the near future to gauge a reaction sans the heavy promotion.

As for glass #446/15, there is no firm plan yet as to how Riedel will market its new association with Finger Lakes Riesling or how the Finger Lakes itself will embrace the piece. Bob Madill of Sheldrake Point, chair of the Wine Alliance and conceiver of the Riedel visit, considers the glass "a quality symbol that re-enforces our experience and projects Finger Lakes Riesling as a world class quality wine." He plans to begin presenting his Riesling in this particular stemware to enhance the opinion of special visitors and critics. Others may choose to do the same.

George Riedel is a businessman who sells very expensive and well-made stemware. That being said, he seems sold on the Finger Lakes as a good investment, which says a lot about the growing profile of the region. Whether or not you believe in the Riedel experiment, there is little doubt that the Finger Lakes and its Rieslings are being taken more seriously by the wine industry as a whole.

Riedel in the Finger Lakes (Part I)

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

Last Thursday night I was fortunate enough, to attend a dinner hosted by George Riedel at Suzanne's Fine Regional Cuisine on the eastern side of Seneca Lake. The weather was fantastic, and the view of the lake was both breathtaking and (because it was looking due west) allowing for the sunset to complement the scenery and create a Finger Lakes panoramic that was truly beautiful.

George Riedel used only one of his famous decanters during the evening, but through this vessel flowed a great deal of wine from the Finger Lakes and all over the world. Representatives from Fox Run, Sheldrake Point, Lucas, Glenora, and Hunt Country were all in attendance, and these winemakers and owners brought samples of their wines to share. 

Riedel was kind enough to order from Suzanne's list many exemplary wines from the Finger Lakes and Europe. There were far too many to keep track of.

The dinner consisted of three main courses of Maine scallop, free-range duck, and lamb, with a cheese dish for dessert. The food was excellent.  Mr. Riedel turned to me at one point and exclaimed that the food was "fantastic."

For an individual who must dine frequently at world-class restaurants, it certainly was a ringing endorsement.

The Finger Lakes wines that were offered by the owners in attendance included Glenora's 2007 Pinot Blanc, Fox Run's 2005 Cabernet Franc reserve, Lucas' 2007 Riesling, Hunt Country's 2007 Valvin Muscat, and Sheldrake Point's 2007 Gewürtztraminer.

All of these wines showed very well, but the Fox Run Cabernet Franc and Sheldrake Point's Gewürtztraminer were real stand-outs, the latter being one of most interesting Finger Lakes Gewürtztraminers I have had the pleasure to taste.

While George Riedel hosted this dinner as a prelude to the tasting exercise the next day, the result of which would highlight one of his glasses as the ideal Finger Lakes riesling glass, it became clear over the course of the evening that he sees the Finger Lakes as more than just another business opportunity. I found his conversation engaging and I believe he sees a great deal of potential in the Finger Lakes wine industry.

Riedel first visited the Finger Lakes earlier this year. It's obvious that he wanted another look. At the end of the day it's all about selling more glassware, yet there's something to be said about Riedel's confidence in the Finger Lakes as a good investment of his time and attention.

For Part II of the Riedel report, I will tell you about the tasting and selection of the Finger Lakes Riesling glass and offer my thoughts on the authenticity of such an experiment.

The Finger Lakes Wine Festival

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

Finger Lakes Wine Country graciously invited me to a "sneak peak" media event last Friday to preview some rieslings that would be featured during the Finger Lakes Wine Festival throughout the weekend. The event was held in the media building on the grounds of the Watkins Glen International raceway, a sprawling circuit-style course that winds its way through a hill overlooking the Seneca Lake valley below.

Wineries that presented their 2007 rieslings during the media event included Dr. Frank's, Fox Run, Glenora, Hazlitt 1852, Lakewood, Lucas, Red New Cellars, Sheldrake Point, and Swedish Hill. Chefs from restaurants associated with participating wineries provided food pairings, including Chef Frank Caravita from Fox Run (pictured at right), Chef Deb Whiting from Red Newt, Chef Orlando Rodriguez from Glenora, and Chef Sam Izzo from Sheldrake Point.

As I had encountered in mass tastings before, the 2007 rieslings leave a strong general impression. The dry versions, at this point, seem to lack balance and while ripe and flavorful they leave the mouth confused throughout the tasting. The semi-dry offerings are usually more balanced at a sweeter level, and despite the fact that I do not enjoy the semi-dry style as a rule I found much more to hold on to with these rieslings.

"2007 was a very ripe year, so composing these rieslings from different lots was almost like a gamble," Bob Mindall from Sheldrake Point explained to me. Without strong acidity, the ripe flavors interplay very differently from each producer. I suspect that some 2007s will build well in the bottle, and others may fall flat over time.

Rendezvous with Riesling

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

Last week, I was fortunate enough to attend the Second Annual Rendezvous with Riesling event at the New York Wine and Culinary Center in Canandaigua, New York. As the name implies, this event brings together sampling of New York wineries, mostly from the Finger Lakes, to showcase their most recent riesling offerings.

I highlight some individual wines below.

This event also served as my first visit to the Wine and Culinary Center. While I had always assumed that it had something to offer, I'll admit that I was a bit dismissive of a centralized Finger Lakes venue. If I happened to be in the Finger Lakes, why not just spend my time visiting the wineries at their own locations?

Frankly, I was blown away by the overall quality of the Wine and Culinary Center. It was laid out wonderfully, the decor was inspiring, and the staff was friendly and courteous. This places simply exudes excellence in wine and showcases a regional pride. And, as this event demonstrated, the advantage of a centralized venue is that one can sample a variety of wines from different areas without the burden of extensive travel.

I highly recommend the Center to all LENNDEVOURS readers. If you are planning a Finger Lakes trip, make sure to check out the website and see what is being featured during your stay. The Center is a time-saver but it is just as beautiful and fun as many other tasting rooms in the Finger Lakes. Plus, some of the events add dimensions to wine education that most tasters cannot gather from a winery visit alone.

The Wines
The wineries brought their rieslings to be sure, but many also brought other wines as well. There were a lot of good wines, but I will highlight a few that grabbed my attention that night. 

But first, a general riesling observation: the 2006 dry rieslings are excellent almost across the board, while the 2007s seem to excel in the semi-dry style and falter a bit in the dry. A select few wineries pulled off a good dry 2007, but I think the semi-dry is a safer bet for a blind grab off the store shelf.

Some highlights:

Exploring Finger Lakes Riesling @ the Astor Center (May 8)

You'd think after almost a week in the Finger Lakes, I'd be ready for a break from their riesling. You'd be wrong though. This Thursday, I'm taking the train into Manhattan to attend a media and trade tasting hosted by the Finger Lakes Wine Alliance at the Astor Center.

Joshua Greene, editor of Wine & Spirits magazine will lead a guided tasting of 10 2006 Finger Lakes rieslings and discuss the effects slate, snow and deep-water lakes had on the wines. The 10 wines will be those from Buttonwood Grove, Treleaven/King Ferry, Dr. Konstantin Frank, Standing Stone, Chateau Lafayette Reneau, Red Newt Cellars, White Springs, Fox Run, Hermann J. Wiemer and Sheldrake Point.

There will also be a walk-around tasting of twenty-two Finger Lakes wineries showcasing their 2006 and 2007 Rieslings.

The 2007 harvest, which everyone's favorite wine magazine, Wine Spectator, scored an A-, is one of the best vintages in history for the Finger Lakes. The additional wineries featured in on Thursday include Ravines, Anthony Road, Lakewood, Wagner, Fulkerson's, Atwater, Rooster Hill, Casa Larga, Swedish Hill, Thirsty Owl, Hazlitt's, and Glenora. Four of the Finger Lakes top chefs from the Inn at Glenora Wine Cellars, Fox Run, Red Newt Bistro, and Simply Red Bistro will be preparing Riesling-friendly foods including locally raised pork, rabbit, venison, beef, ramps and cheese.

It should be a fun event. And yes, I know that I'm behind on my Finger Lakes postings...but they are coming. I promise.