New York Cork Report

Technological Innovations at Red Tail Ridge

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

Standing in Red Tail Ridge Winery's new facility recently, it occurred to me: The entire geothermal machine area looks like something out of a Star Wars movie. Can it get any cooler (or hotter) than that?

I stopped by Red Tail Ridge on Seneca Lake the other day with the primary goal of getting a harvest report. I was also excited about the winery's new production facility, which I assumed would have some interesting features.

The facility and its winemaking innovations blew my mind.

While I knew that owners Mike Schnelle and Nancy Irelan had built an environmentally conscious facility that is eligible for LEED certification, I had no idea that the building houses a thermal system that is incorporated into various elements of winemaking. By tapping into natural geothermal energy, the new production facility not only maintains a constant, energy-efficient temperature in general, but it also regulates the temperature of the tanks during fermentation.

 Unlike most wineries in the Finger Lakes, the tank temperatures are not measured and reported manually, but through a computer screen, utilizing software specially designed for Red Tail Ridge.

"I can control the tank temperatures remotely," winemaker Nancy Irelan (at right) tells me. "When all the bugs are worked out, I could in theory monitor the temperatures from my kitchen table at home."

And while Nancy is hardly passive enough to rely heavily on remote control, the sheer efficiency of the system speaks to her dedication to environmentalism and sustainability. To be patient enough to commission a design for such a thermal contorl system is no easy or inexpensive task, which is indicated by the complex mechanics visible in the control-room area on the second floor of the facility. The geothermal system uses a mixture of extreme heat and extreme cold to regulate temperature on a constant basis.

With only a few Finger Lakes vintages in her portfolio thus far, the critics are already appreciating her efforts. My tasting of her 2009 riesling lots in tank revealed some tremendous early quality with complex fruit and pronounced minerality.

As for the 2009 harvest in general, Nancy is very pleased, although the cool and wet vintage was a "new challenge" for someone who cut her winemaking teeth in California. Despite the challenges of the growing season, especially the intensive vineyard management needed to keep ahead of potential problems, Nancy feels that most of the grapes are in great shape. "The pinot noir was really beautiful fruit this year with nice, even ripeness."

Energy efficient or not, one could point out that the production facility at Red Tail Ridge is more extensive than it needs to be for its planned output, yet the environmental features are so comprehensive that it seems almost certain that the long-term efficiencies will be significant and noteworthy. Furthermore, Nancy is the first to admit that such a facility is not a prerequisite for making good wine: these innovations are simply a reflection of her and her husband's dedication to environmental innovation.

In only a few short years Red Tail Ridge has become a Finger Lakes winery to watch. With a an adjoining tasting room slated for future construction as well as Nancy's propensity to experiment with different clones and varietals, the future looks even more interesting.

Standing Stone Vineyards: Ice Wine in the Banana Belt

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

Standing Stone Vineyards is located on the southeastern shore of Seneca Lake in the so-called "banana belt" of the Finger Lakes. This stretch of lakefront, which encompasses several major and well-known wineries, is said by some winemakers to have temperatures that can sometimes range a few degrees warmer than the surrounding area, either enhancing ripening or staving off killer cold.

During a recent visit, I was surprised to learn that Standing Stone is at the every epicenter of this warm area. Tucked away in a barn sits an old sign that signifies a very rich history: "Gold Seal Seneca Lake Vinifera Vineyards."

"Yes, this was the spot," owner and winemaker Marti Macinski confirms. "This is where Guy DeVaux and Charles Fournier tested their grapes."

The story is part of Finger Lakes lore.

Back in the 1960s while Dr. Konstantin Frank experimented with vinifera on Keuka Lake, the Gold Seal Wine Company brought two Frenchmen, Guy DeVaux and Charles Fournier, to the Finger Lakes to determine whether vinifera could thrive in its cool climate with harsh winters. Experimental stations were set up all over the region and, eventually, the site where Standing Stone is located was selected by Gold Seal as having the most ideal growing conditions in the region.

Gold Seal purchased the property in 1969 and planted riesling and chardonnay in 1972. By the mid-1980's the property had changed hands several times during long and complicated transactions that sent the Gold Seal brand into oblivion. Marti Macinski and her husband Tom bought the property in 1991.

Standing Stone has over 41 acres under vine, and is most noteworthy for having the feel of a long-standing agricultural enterprise. The farm long predates Gold Seal's purchase of the land. There are barns and buildings everywhere, including an old farmhouse where the Macinski's live, and an old smokehouse as well.

The view of the lake from the winery is also one of the nicest and most expansive I have seen.

Despite Standing Stone's natural advantage in ripening grapes, the reds at the winery are not often the most cited of the winery's offerings. Marti is particularly proud of her pinot noir and Pinnacle (a cabernet-based blend), but she acknowledges that her ice wines draws a great deal of attention.

"Our 1999 vidal ice wine received an 89 from Wine Spectator and wide critical acclaim," Marti explains, "so we asked ourselves if we should make more. Then, in 2001 we got our first 90!"

While Standing Stone keeps the price of their ice wine under $30, Marti emphasizes that it is tough going. "The yield losses are enormous as the months stretch past the regular harvest. It's also a challenge to make ice wine because it's hard to keep fermentation going with such high sugars. Only a few yeasts work well, and they have to babied along. If you don't pay enough attention, the whole wine can become a microbiological mess."

Standing Stone has made wine from grapes frozen on the vine, but since a solid freeze is hard to come by until well into January or February the yield losses can be unacceptable. For the most part, Standing Stone commercially freezes their ice wine grapes in November and then presses them in the cold during January.

Marti Macinski is excited about the 2009 harvest that, while not warm or easy to manage in terms of mildew and other rain-related problems, has still provided some good fruit. "This vintage is going to demonstrate who the good growers are, because it's the type of year that you have to work your tail off. Not two days went by this year that I wasn't in the vineyard."

But, the vineyard is where Marti feels most comfortable. "Winemaking is one thing," she says, "but growing is the really interesting part for me."  i   

What We Drank (October 12, 2009)

By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief

What We Drank is a little bit different this week. In honor of Regional Wine Week, organized by DrinkLocalWine.com, which started yesterday, I asked our contributors to pick a New York wine. Of course, that's no problem because we're all drinking local wines anyway.

From Evan Dawson: Heart & Hands 2007 Barrel Reserve Pinot Noir

If blind tastings occasionally seem cliche, I would argue they are imperative in proving the strength of New York state wines to doubters. A brown bag can disarm biases.

This weekend, after sorting and stomping grapes at Heart & Hands Wine Company on Cayuga Lake (a post on the importance of sorting is on deck for later this week), I grabbed this bottle for a blind pour with a small group Saturday night.

I simply gave guests two glasses, one filled with this pinot, and another with the Tardieu-Laurent 2004 Saint-Joseph from the northern Rhone. I had a hunch that while these wines are wildly different, both are strong enough to escape any suspicion of local origin. I was right. Guesses flew around the room; one taster thought this bottle was a Spanish grenache, given its medium weight and spice.

Upon revelation came the now familiar -- yet always satisfying -- "Wow, is this really local?" Yes, it is. No, not everyone is making local wine like this. But when you know where to look, the results can be stunning. Especially for those who think New York state doesn't make wine with depth.

(This wine sells for $40 and is available on the winery's website and in a number of NY restaurants).

From Lenn Thompson: Peconic Bay Winery 2005 Merlot

By now you've probably heard at least something about the 2005 growing season on Long Island -- the early, frost-free spring, the hot, dry summer...and the, in some areas, 20 inches of rain in 8 days in October, right in the middle of harvest.

Some wineries stopped picking chardonnay when the rains started (virtually abandoning that fruit) to get the reds in before the deluge. Others waited. And hoped.

Not surprisingly, 2005 reds can be pretty inconsistent from winery to winery. If your vineyard practices, location and (frankly) luck allowed, the winds that followed the storm dried your vineyard out. Again, if you were lucky, the great-before-the-rain season ripeness survived.

It did with this Peconic Bay Winery 2005 Merlot (ignore the mis-labeled "Lowerre Reserve"), with ripe, bright flavors of black cherry and black raspberry, with subtle spice, light toasty vanilla and, after several hours in my glass, a little earthy edge. The tannins were soft, ripe and seamless.

It's not the most complex merlot you'll ever taste from Long Island, but it was extremely satisfying over the course of the evening, with enough fruit up front to appeal to Nena and just enough complexity to keep me coming back to it of course of several hours.

The bottle didn't last the evening. In fact we had to open a bottle of something else after this was gone.

From Julia Burke: Standing Stone 2007 Callioux

A late harvest chardonnay? Being a virgin to this style I couldn't resist when I saw it on the dessert drinks menu at Stone Cat Cafe on Seneca Lake.

In the glass, this Standing Stone offering was a lusty tiger-eye hue of amber, cloudy but not murky.

An initial whiff knocked me over with cranberry-juice cocktail and clover honey. As its fruit-gusher of a nose began to unpack itself I started to get a very distinctive and unexpected scent: fresh sushi.

I spent several minutes trying to pinpoint the smell, wading through memories of sesame oil, wasabi, seaweed, pickled ginger and raw fish, and after some consideration decided it was probably some kind of soy.

Within the somewhat expected finish of boozy citrus (if they make a bourbon orange julius this would be it) and continued honey I got a pleasant scent of almond extract.

A very interesting first experience with this incarnation of chard.  But with nothing to compare it to, I can't decide whether that central soy/sushi action was cloying or intriguing.

I'd be interested to see more wines of this style from the Finger Lakes.

From Tom Mansell: Damiani Wine Cellars 2007 Sauvignon Blanc

I guess you could say this one is pretty darn local, since the tasting room manager at Damiani lives about a block from me.

Sauvignon blanc is not grown too much in the Finger Lakes, likely due to its susceptibility to rot and cold winters, and vegetative growth/vine vigor.

This offering from Damiani Wine Cellars on the east side of Seneca Lake is estate grown and isn't too bad. A few tiny bubbles of spritz in the glass. Clean on the nose, a bit of sulfur, green apple and light grapefruit.

Balanced acidity and and full mouthfeel lead to a pleasing, medium-long, if slightly hot finish. Ever-so-slight oxidation (at least in this particular bottle) is obvious only on the very end of the palate (though the apple up front may have been a clue). It doesn't really have the vegetal or tropical fruit qualities typical of other styles of sauvignon blanc, so it's pretty nondescript.

It did go well with an edamame-tarragon risotto Sarah whipped up, giving some further evidence for me of the connection of Sauvignon Blanc with herbs in the anise family.

Unfortunately, the winery's sold out of this wine, but you may be able to find it at some retailers.

From Bryan Calandrelli: Leonard Oakes 2008 Vidal Ice Wine

After visiting Leonard Oakes last week, I came away with that same feeling that ice wine will continue to steal the show up here as a common thread between wineries.

Leonard Oakes makes several types of wine and most of them are very small production, so I didn’t even realize that they made ice wine until this one was poured.

Even though I had a cold, the aromas of this ice wine were stunningly obvious. Hints of tangerine, mango and peach were all there, distinguishing it from many other simple, one-note syrupy versions.

For me ice wine should still have a backbone, and this one did with a great balance of acid and sugar.

All in all, another delicious estate grown ice wine from the Niagara region that can hang with the same quality offerings that Ontario charges three times as much for.

From Jason Feulner: Damiani Wine Cellars 2007 Meritage

This impressive Bordeaux-style blend from a warm Finger Lakes vintage says as much about Damiani as it does about the region's ability to produce good red wine.

A winery that professes a strong belief in stressed vines and extended hang time, Damiani offers with this bottling a red that exhibits deep and complex flavors marked by chocolate and tobacco and currant with just a hint of dark cherry.

The finish isn't huge but it lingers. The oak is perhaps just a smidgen too strong with this one, so let it breathe for a few minutes to let the flavors really settle out in the glass.

Overall, this wine is great example of what is possible in a warm vintage in the Finger Lakes with a low yield, hands-on emphasis found in some of the region's smaller operations.

Some Finger Lakes Food Thoughts

Photo courtesy of Dano's Heuriger

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

Lenn has always intended that this blog emphasize wine and food, although there is so much wine news to talk about that sometimes we forget to mention food as often as we should. Admittedly I am not a foodie, and I know that I nearly always forget to write up my dining experiences in relating information about the Finger Lakes.

This article by Don Cazentre from the Syracuse Post-Standard does a wonderful job highlighting some new eateries as well as summarizing those culinary staples that already exist. I would recommend this article to readers who are thinking of visiting the Finger Lakes or who, like me, tend to fly a bit blind when it comes to planning meal stops between winery visits.

Last Monday evening my wife, daughter and I visited Dano's Heuriger on Seneca Lake, a five-year-old Austrian restaurant with unique architecture, an exciting menu and amazing food. Chef and owner Dano Hutnik came out to visit our table several times, greeting our 16-month-old daughter Elizabeth playfully as she worked up the courage to shake his hand and say "Hi!"

Elizabeth was especially fond of the tomato cream soup and I agreed with her wholeheartedly. I cannot even begin to describe the balance of cream and tomato, heightened with spices that begged for more spoon fulls. We could have made a meal just out of the soup.

I ordered the wiener schnitzel, which came very plain but crispy and tasty. My wife Kathleen ordered roast chicken with spatzle. The chicken was fall-of-the-bone good, perfectly roasted with what seemed like a hint of sage and thyme. The spatzle was chewy with a welcoming texture which we ate up with gusto.

I find German/Austrian food to be somewhat straightforward, and that's usually a good thing. This meal was by all measures a solid foray into simple but hearty cooking.

Unfortunately, we pulled into this restaurant a bit fatigued and tired from taking photos at wineries all day, so I have no images to provide from our dining experience (sorry Lenn!). Instead, do yourself a favor and go to Dano's to feast your own eyes. It's a must-see, a must-eat, and the people there are great.

Shaw Vineyard: Reds Against the Machine (and a Little Green Too)

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspndent

(Note: this story is part two of a two-part series highlighting some unique production choices at Shaw Vineyard.)

Shaw Vineyard just released its 2005 reds this month.

In the Finger Lakes, that fact would normally be the story in and of itself, but the true story starts in 2004 when Steve Shaw called the Europress California office to order a specialty-built Rauch A-8 Crusher/De-stemmer.

"I tried a French de-stemmer that had some very limited variable options," winemaker and owner Steve Shaw remembers. “It just didn’t work well as I wanted. I called Europress to get them to custom-build a variable speed version of their common de-stemmer. It cost me 20% more to get the results I wanted."

"They really thought I was crazy when I told them I wanted no crusher at all on the de-stemmer. Between the variable speed and the complete lack of crusher, it’s a unique machine."

The device, which Steve says was the only Europress had made at the time of its creation, is a de-stemmer that has a nearly infinite number of speeds available to the winemaker. All red varieties are conveyor-fed and de-stemmed at the lowest possible impact point, the berries being released fully intact into vats for cold soaks, eventually resulting in whole berry fermentation after inoculation with sulfur. The desired yeast is added to the must, but no artificial heat is used.

"Everything is done by hand." Steve emphasizes. "There are no pump-overs with a hose pump for any grapes, clusters or must — only later with fermented juice. Punch downs are done by hand. We lift what berries are left after fermentation into the press with a conveyer, and we press at a very, very low 1 bar of pressure, Champagne style."

Steve’s philosophy on handling grapes stems from his background both observing and engaging in winemaking. A 30-year-grower, he witnessed firsthand how different Finger Lakes wineries treated his grapes and what kind of wines resulted. Steve cut his winemaking teeth at Silver Thread in the late 1990s, and then began to plan his own venture in 2000.

To further his education, he took trips to Champagne, Burgundy, Bordeaux, and Napa and spoke to whomever he could about winemaking techniques.

"I noticed, especially in Bordeaux, that there was a lot of talk about handling of cooler climate grapes and how it affects the flavors. I compared that to what I had learned in the Finger Lakes in the cool climate here.”

Steve built his production facility in 2002, an energy-efficient building that he does not even have to heat most winters. He left room in anticipation of other winemakers wanting to rent space the facility and, much to Steve’s delight, Morten Hallgren soon arrived to produce wines for his new winery, Ravines Wine Cellars.

“I tell people it’s like taking batting practice with Derek Jeter,” Steve jokes. “Morten is a master winemaker with a great deal of experience, and he has been an amazing consultant as I’ve pursued my own style of winemaking. Our views on grape handling are very similar and it’s been a beneficial relationship.”

Beyond the unique machinery and delicate handling, Steve is adamant that his reds must take time to age before they are released. “It’s a luxury I give myself, but it’s important to me to give the reds time to develop. It’s a common practice in other winemaking regions.”

I found that the just-released Shaw 2005 reds, a merlot, cabernet franc, and cabernet sauvignon, are all prime examples of the vintage, with nice balance, ripe fruit, and expressive aromatics. The cabernet sauvignon will surprise many tasters who have not seen many quality bottlings of that varietal in the Finger Lakes; much like his 2003 version, Steve Shaw’s 2005 cabernet sauvignon is a tasty, enjoyable red.

Steve Shaw is proud of his wines, but he is also proud of the environmentally-friendly facility that has evolved under his watch. “The tank building rarely needs to be heated. I put the underground barrel cellar directly beneath the tasting room, and the heat it gives off keeps this place warm in the winter. Between the design of these buildings and the way I handle my grapes, I think this is a pretty distinctive operation for the Finger Lakes. The whole idea at Shaw is gentle extraction from the grapes of the desired flavor components that the particular growing season offers.”

A Surprising Second Label at Shaw Vineyard

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

(Note: this story is part one of a two-part series highlighting some unique production choices at Shaw Vineyard.)

Wineries that produce a second label do so for many reasons, although the secondary nature of the label almost assuredly implies less-expensive, less-focused wine. 

Some top-flight establishments offer a second label that is still a solid wine by almost any standard, although many wineries throw whatever they can into a bottle and call it a day, often not focusing on quality in the process.

On a recent tasting at Shaw Vineyard I encountered this pinot grigio, a part of their second-label line, Li Bella. The bright blue bottle and watercolor dragon fly were certainly attractive but I did not necessarily expect that the wine would stand up to the other wines under the main Shaw label.

I was wrong.

While the pinot grigio has just a touch of sweetness (1.4 RS), it is also a crisp, focused, aromatic white that exhibited a great deal of quality and depth. In fact, it was simply a good Finger Lakes white wine--period.

I inquired about the origin of the label from owner and winemaker Steve Shaw. The original idea, conceived by Steve's son and marketing partner, Steve Shaw Jr., was to produce a fresher, brighter style for consumption by a target market of female wine drinkers in New York City and Florida. "It's done very well downstate," Steve Shaw Jr. explains. "The wine is at a very competitive price point for the market."

The label itself was designed and painted by Steve Shaw Jr.

Although the wine's image was softened for marketing purposes, no major compromises were made in the production of the wine. "This wine was made like all Shaw Vineyard wines," emphasizes Steve Shaw Sr. "I used only whole cluster press, with no crushing and no pump-over, which is the case for all my wines. The only difference is the RS, which I would keep around .8 if this was under the Shaw label."

Currently, Shaw does not make a pinot grigio for his main line.

400 cases of Li Bella were made for the 2007 vintage, which sold out quickly. 600 cases were made for 2008. The grapes were sourced from a per acre contract and will be completely single vineyard for the 2009 vintage.

Due to the success of the Li Bella experiment, Shaw Vineyard will also produce a 2009 cabernet franc for the same line. While many entry-level reds are produced and bottled in the same year, Shaw is adamant that the difference in quality between the main label cabernent fanc and the Li Bella version will be minimal. "At this point, I'm planning on aging the Li Bella for 18-24 months instead of my typical 34 months for a red."

Perhaps my expectations are low for a second label, but in the case of Shaw and Li Bella I was pleasantly surprised by the focus on quality across the spectrum. As it stands, Li Bella is more of an alternative label than a secondary one, which at a few bucks less is a great deal for the consumer.

The Great Northern Migration (of Grapes, That Is)

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Regional Correspondent

I encourage followers of the New York winery scene to check out this article by Syracuse Post-Standard writer Don Cazentre. For some time, wineries in the frozen hinterlands north of Syracuse in the Thousand Island region, the Tug Hill Plateau, and the Adirondack foothills have been making a brazen attempt to grow a significant amount of grapes using cold-hardy hybrids developed by Cornell and the University of Minnesota.

This article focuses on the operations in the Thousand Islands region and specific varieties developed by the University of Minnesota.

Formerly, these wineries relied heavily on grapes sources from vineyards throughout the state. Now, they are attempting to cement their own regional identity.

The article contains quotes from some usual sources that exhibit the "come one, come all" mentality of winery expansion in the state. The number of wineries in New York (wow!), and the rate of growth is mentioned as well.

While I think it's great that people are following their entrepreneurial dreams, I'm also aware that the issues of saturation and identity always come into play when we are talking about expansion of the New York wine industry. Has it come to pass that we can no longer talk about the "New York" industry because it is too globular and diverse to warrant a specific description?

What are your reactions to this article and some of its implications?

Heart & Hands Wine Company: Unique Focus (Pinot!) and a Unique Tasting Experience

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

Editor's Note: Jason and I both visited this wine company in recent days and we both left with the impression that, at $10, the cellar tasting at Heart & Hands is the most unique tasting experience in the Finger Lakes, just made for wine enthusiasts. Jason details it below. Higgins is the winemaker who organized last week's industry tasting of Finger Lakes Pinot, which was detailed here. -Evan

I recently paid a visit to Heart & Hands Wine Company, a new winery on the northeastern shore of Cayuga Lake, to scoop a story for Life in the Finger Lakes magazine about the choice of winemaker Tom Higgins to specialize his operation. Heart and Hands makes several different kinds of wine from only two grapes: Riesling and Pinot Noir. In fact, 90% of the operation is dedicated to Pinot, with just 10% focusing on Riesling. Higgins’s choice to specialize so intently is unique to the Finger Lakes and might be a bit of a shock to some consumers, although most wine enthusiasts will sense the Old World emulation that Higgins is attempting to display. Even many California regions like Napa have numerous wineries that specialize in only a few grapes that are fed into a limited range of products.

Higgins' educational stints in Bordeaux and California speak to his craftsmanship and expression. By far the most unique operation Higgins encountered that informed his stance on specialization is Calera, a Central Coast California winery located near Mt. Harlan that primarily makes Pinot Noir. The founder of Calera, Josh Jensen, picked his vineyard sites based on an occurrence of limestone, which is a rarity in California. Jensen views limestone as a basis for good Pinot, much like the growers in Burgundy. Higgins brought this informed perspective back to the Finger Lakes with him, searching for limestone much like Jensen did in California.

Although he is still sourcing grapes from select growing sites, Higgins just cleared his own vineyard at a site he selected primarily for the vein of limestone that juts through the property. You can learn more about the six carefully selected acres in my colleague Evan Dawson's video interview with Higgins in a separate post.

Limestone aside, I was even more impressed with the unique flair that he and his wife Susan -- who runs the business side of the operation -- have added to the tasting experience. For $10 visitors can take the cellar tour, but it's more than a tour. Guests enter the special-built cellar and taste Pinot Noir directly from the barrels. Higgins explains the site sources for each barrel and also compares difference batches that either had minimal stem contact or quite a bit. The result is bit of a blending game where tasters can mix, in their own glass, Pinot from different sites and varying tannic structure. There is no doubt that this exercise teaches the palate and informs the palate holder about the winemaking process.

The standard tasting room experience is also a highlight. On any given weekend Tom and Susan pour the wines, educating customers about the contents of their glasses, and they offer food pairings to demonstrate the flavors in the wines. I was surprised to learn that Higgins also adds a virtual library of information on the back label of each wine he produces. A bottle of Riesling, for instance, will have vintage notes, percentage composition of the wine by growing site, and all the other vital statistics include harvest and bottling dates, residual sugar—the works. I have simply never seen this level of detail on a label before, and I must say it adds a wonderful dimension of integrity that I wish that the wider industry would consider.

For an even better cool factor, Heart & Hands employs glass Vino-Seal stoppers on some of their Pinot Noir bottles. I’d heard of glass enclosures but I had never encountered one. I am almost positive no one else in the Finger Lakes is experimenting with these “cutting edge” stoppers. Likes his informative labels, Higgins is embracing a very forward-looking feel to his operation.

The Riesling, Late Harvest Riesling, two versions of Pinot Noir (normal and reserve) and the Brut Rose that Heart & Hands carry are all good wines worthy of consideration. The Brut Rose especially impressed with strong honey and strawberry notes with a bit of cherry and nice acidity. Beyond the quality of the wines, the hospitality and informative tasting environment at Heart & Hands makes this winery a must-visit for enthusiasts looking for something a little bit different.

24 Years of Dr. Konstantin Frank Riesling

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

On Sunday I had the unique privilege of tasting ten rieslings from Dr. Frank's Vinifera Wine Cellars, ranging in date from 2008 all the way back to 1985.

While several other Finger Lakes wineries offered riesling library tastings as part of Riesling Month, virtually no other can reach as far back as Dr. Frank's, which has bottles dating from the 1960s. In this sense, Dr. Frank's provides an historical perspective on the region's potential.

Fred Frank, president of the winery, explained that the wines included in the tasting were not selected based on any notion of vintage quality and ageability. Instead, he related that the winery had varying numbers of bottles reserved from each vintage. With a trade tasting and a consumer tasting both scheduled on the same day, it was necessary to select those vintages that could spare a few bottles and still retain some stock down cellar.

Such practical considerations made for an interesting flight, as the vintages represented both the extremes of the Finger Lakes, hot and dry versus cool and wet, and many points in-between.

The wines tasted, in order, were: 2008 Dry Riesling, 2007 Dry Riesling, 2005 Dry Riesling, 2001 Reserve Riesling, 1991 Dry Riesling, 1988 Dry Riesling, 1987 Dry Riesling, 1985 Dry Riesling, 2007 Semi-Dry Riesling, and the 1995 Semi-Dry Riesling.

The Dry Rieslings

There are nearly an endless number of observations that can be made when one approaches a tasting that has so many variables attached to it. At the most basic level, all of the wines were interesting and enjoyable, which is a result that should never be taken for granted.

Starting with the newer vintages, I detected the flavors and descriptions that are often attached to a Finger Lakes riesling. In the 2008, 2007 and 2005 dry rieslings, the noses had hints of apple blossom, followed by tastes of melon and citrus backed with varying degrees of acidity and minerality.

As I have observed in the past with many other Finger Lakes rieslings from 2007, this wine was all about fruit but with less acidity and minerality, a combination that I do not enjoy as thoroughly. Of the more recent vintages, the 2005 was definitely the strongest, with an almost perfect balance of minerality and fruit and a full mouthfeel. The 2008 was very good but still in bottle shock, so future judgments await.

When we jumped from the 2005 to the 2001, the nose and flavors shifted considerably. The 2001 had a mellow fruit component, more akin to pear than melon or critrus. I also detected a hint of honey and toasty herbs. The wine possessed tremendous backbone and a compelling but austere finish.

 Skipping another ten years, the 1991 exploded with similar toast and honey flavors, striking the mid-palate with a viscous butterscotch that dripped into a long finish that evolved and evolved. This was an excellent and well-aged wine that exhibited complexities that one might not associate with a newer riesling.

The 1988 and the 1987 were somewhat similar and in that sense exciting. Both wines showed the butterscotch flavor, although the nose on the 1988 was a bit sharper (it reminded me of mint) and also had a lingering finish. The 1987 had just a touch of petrol (the only wine to really show this quality) and had a finish that did not linger but was narrow, well-defined, and drying.

We arrived at the 1985 with the anticipation that enthusiasts naturally lend to the oldest wine in a group. Unfortunately, the floral nose led to a wine that had passed its prime. A second bottle was opened, to a similar effect. Fred Frank expressed some measured disappointment and began to show us the corks from these bottles which were intact but obviously pushed to their limits. Some oxidation likely occurred, but the wine was still drinkable and worth considering. As I stated to one of my tasting companions, "A dying good wine is better than a new bad one."

Of course the 1984, if tasted, could have been wonderful, or maybe an even older vintage as well. Or perhaps a third bottle of 1985 might have done the trick. This isn't an exact science! All in all, I was very happy that we tasted to nearly 25 years with some amazing results.

The Semi-Dry Wines

The winery reserved the two semi-dry rieslings for the end of the tasting believing that they would have a different overall profile. For the most part, this predication held true. The 2007 semi-dry riesling was a knockout, with powerful lemon and citrus flavors backed by a touch of sweetness and hint of acidity and minerality. This wine was in tremendous balance and demonstrated to me, again, that on the whole I prefer 2007 semi-dry reislings to their dry counterparts from the same vintage. This wine is a must-have.

The 1995 semi-dry riesling was like molasses wrapped in fruit, possessing a solid structure and tremendous mouthfeel that led to a pleasing and lingering finish. This wine was an example of what a slightly sweet aged riesling can accomplish, and I wish we had not tasted this last as I think it might have held up very well in direct comparison to some of the dry riesling results in vintage order.

Conclusions and Observations

It's difficult to come to any specific conclusions about this exercise. As in all large tastings I felt humbled by the varying tastes and questioned constantly my ability to sort through all of the sensory information. Based on the conversations during the tasting, however, most of the participants reached similar conclusions about the general shift in aromas and flavors as the vintages became older. 

I am now more convinced than ever that a well-made riesling can easily age 10-20 years and that riesling can take on an entirely different characteristics between the 10 and 20 year mark. Based on this experience and others, I dare say that Finger Lakes rieslings can age and they age well, offering a new dynamic to an already complex and satisfying white.

Which of the wines was the most significant stand-out? I'd have to say that the 1991 was the most interesting in that its complex tastes and aromatic qualities formed a perfect bridge between the elements of a newer rieslings and the intense flavors of an older version. The wine was just so perfect right now.

Fred Frank graciously revealed that the 1991 riesling was made in large part by Peter Bell, currently the head winemaker at Fox Run Vineyards.

...and a little surprise...

At the very end of the tasting, the group was treated to a yet-to-be-released 2008 Late Harvest Riesling made in the traditional Trockenbeerenauslese style.

Wow.

The botrytis just plain kissed these grapes, providing a sweetness of such depth and luxury that I wanted to demand another glass. Yes, the wine is that good even in its newly-bottled youth.

The winery is unsure of the eventual release price, and while I would hope that the wine remains affordable, I imagine they will find some buyers who are willing to take the plunge.

Rumor has it that 2008 was a great year for late harvest and ice wines. If Dr. Frank's late harvest is typical of the vintage than these wines will be prized indeed.

Holding Back: the 2009 Riesling Rendezvous

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

Last year, at the 2008 Riesling Rendevouz event at the beautiful New York Wine and Culinary Center, I had the distinct pleasure of tasting a great many 2007 rieslings. In fact, few of the 40 plus wineries at last year's event were not pouring their 2007 rieslings.

I was able to sample so many 2007 rieslings at this single event last year that I felt confident enough to proclaim familiarity with the vintage before summer even started.

The 2009 Riesling Rendevouz provided a slightly different story. All of the trappings were the same: the nice tasting setups, the great food, and the same fun and informative staff. As I moved from tasting booth to tasting booth, however, I soon learned that unlike its predecessor, the 2009 version of the Riesling Rendevouz would not provide me with many opportunities to try the newest vintage. In fact, all told, I had only 4 or 5 new 2008 rieslings. Almost all the wineries were pouring their 2007 rieslings, and a quite a few were still pouring some 2006 rieslings!

This result left me with mixed feelings. On one hand, I wanted to share the excitement of a new vintage and begin to taste and judge its qualities. On the other, I can't help but applaud a development that shows a bit of maturity for the region as a whole. I think.

I checked the date of last year's event, and it was held at least a week-and-a-half earlier, so there is no doubt that wineries are consciously holding on to their 2008 rieslings.

The reason for this development could fall into two main possibilities: either the region has decided not to rush its new vintages, taking the time to harvest and ferment a little later, leaving some extended time in tank, and maybe even possibly holding on to their wines once bottled to avoid tasting and selling shocked wines; or, perhaps everyone has a ton of 2006 and 2007 rieslings in stock and they need to push them out the door before they even think about selling the 2008s.

The pragmatist in me thinks it is a combination of both. Either way, I see no reason why we always want the newest Finger Lakes rieslings RIGHT NOW when so many wine regions around the world hold on to their whites just a touch longer and hold on to their reds for several years. On the whole, this might be a good development for the region which signifies increasing quality.

The few 2008s I did try were very good but hard to describe as of yet. Anthony Road Wine Company's winemaker Johannes Reinhardt calls the vintage "beautiful" and the best he's seen in his tenure at the Finger Lakes. Ravines Wine Cellars' winemaker Morten Hallgren was also adamant about the quality of the vintage, explaining to me that the structure is very intact but that the fruit was also present and in balance, a nearly-perfect vintage after the steely wines of 2006 and very ripe wines of 2007.

We shall see. I am looking forward to tasting more 2008 rieslings.

As always, I enjoyed the Riesling Rendevouz event, which I think is a marvelous opportunity for wine drinkers to be exposed to the quality of the region in a single evening. With so many wineries to visit, it sure is convenient to get a large sample all at once!

Rockin' with Reds at Damiani

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

There are a few Finger Lakes wineries that have made the production of red vinifera the cornerstone of their business plan. What makes Damiani Wine Cellars, located on the eastern shore of Seneca, unique is the winery's original emphasis on red to the exclusion of whites.

When the winery opened in 2004 after several years of experimentation, it offered a variety of reds and only a limited number of whites.

"Well, we are red wine drinkers," shrugs Phil Davis, a second-generation grower who oversees the grape growing and production. Lou Damiani serves as the winemaker of the operation.

Both Davis and Damiani own several acres of vineyards around and near the winery property. Davis explains that the site is ideal of red growing because it is part of the "banana belt" the area on Seneca Lake that receives favorable sun and air treatment to remain slightly warmer than the immediate surrounding area. "We are near the deepest part of the lake and the afternoon sun is strong here. It can sometimes mean a 5-10 degree difference on important growing days."

Davis admits that even with an extra bit of warmth that growing red grapes is not easy in the Finger Lakes. To emphasize and concentrate flavors, Davis believes in stressing his vines, keeping them small and making them work very hard to find their roots. Yields are kept as low as needed, and harvests stretch well into November as Davis tries to find the right pH levels, the indicator he finds most telling about red potential.

The results are impressive. Damiani offers several versions of merlot and pinot, as well as a cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, a meritage, and even a syrah.

The 2007 Barrel Select Merlot exhibited a great deal of potential but needs some years to downplay the oak a bit to let its ripe flavors of raspberry, chocolate, and tobacco shine. The 2007 Pinot Noir was very well-balanced with an interplay of earth and cherry, and the Meritage from the same vintage kept developing in the glass and will likely offer some fun and nuanced flavors as it ages.

Despite their demonstrated enthusiasm for reds, Damiani recently began to offer a few more whites ("We are white wine drinkers too," Davis assured me). I had the opportunity to taste the batch of 2008 whites from tank and I found the upcoming Gewürtztraminer extremely compelling as it danced on the tongue with sharp acidity, spice, and an aromatic maturity consisting of moss and floral scents. The 2008 rieslings should also offer riesling lovers fine examples of this variety.

I arrived at Damiani to sample and examine their devotion to reds, but left with an appreciation for their willingness to fully explore the ability of the Finger Lakes region to produce good wine of all varieties. In addition to their expanding white portfolio, the winery is also working on a sparkling wine made in the méthode fashion. Asked what his goals are, Davis talks of his hobby of buying up Old World wines to compare and contrast methods, styles, and results. "The Finger Lakes isn't Europe, but Europe's style is a good reference point. We can make good cool climate wines and we're just figuring out what works here."

  

The Best Policies Money Can Buy

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

Despite Syracuse's proximity to the Finger Lakes region, I have always found wine coverage in the local newspaper, the Syracuse Post-Standard, lacking (abysmal, actually). With this in mind, I was surprised to find an article recently in that same paper about the wine and grocery story controversy that went above and beyond in many respects. This piece, by Bob Niedt, investigates the money that went into the lobbying effort on both sides, at the same time juxtaposing the local perspective and efforts of wine shop owners in the Syracuse area.

Only a small portion of the details have come out so far, but it seems safe to say that hundreds of thousands of dollars on both sides were spent on lobbying in the last few months. Well-known grocery chains as well as independent liquor stores not only joined coalitions that paid for lobbying collectively, but also paid for lobbying directly.

What stinks about this situation, no matter which side you may happen to support, is that Albany's vote is for sale. The state is empowered by these controversies because we all feel the need to join the rat race and pump money into the corrupt system lest we miss out on a chance to peddle influence.

Albany save us! Albany please don't hurt us! Albany you are all powerful!

Is this really all about the wine industry, or consumers, or is it about which advocates will have the long-term ability to invest more and more into this lobbying effort? Independent liquor stores cannot remain so firmly united forever, and the larger grocery entities will continue to pour money into the system in order to justify their original investment.

Who do you think is going to win this one? My money is on the folks with the money.

Over time, the final answer to this question about wine and grocery stores will not be settled by what Albany feels is right, wrong, or even the will of the people. Instead, money will dictate the answer, and money will always trump all other considerations. Right now, the status quo has been maintained because Albany is still trying to figure out who has the better long-term prospects.

Red Tail Ridge Winery: A Different Kind of Investment

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

While the basic strategy for opening a functional winery differs from region to region, in the Finger Lakes the trend seems to follow a path that calls for the opening of the tasting room first with production facility and vineyard coming later.

While this might be a generalization of sorts, it makes sense in many respects. Nearly 75% of wine sales in the Finger Lakes occur on site; many larger wineries lease production space; and a vineyard takes quite a few years to produce grapes.

A winemaker or entrepreneur can purchase grapes, make wine at a different facility, and then sell it in a tasting room to raise capital for the eventual construction of the production facility and vineyard. I can think of several newer Finger Lakes wineries that have gone this route. Most importantly, the tasting rooms are placed prominently next to main roads so that wandering tourists will stop inside and spend their money.

Not so at Red Tail Ridge. When I visited this new winery last summer on the western shore of Seneca Lake, the progression of the operation struck me as unique. The well-marked entrance from Route 14 invites visitors up a long, winding dirt road, but there is no sign of a tasting room at all. In fact, all one can see up and over the rolling hill are acres and acres of vines.

These are impressive rows of young vines, well spaced and groomed with thick trellises anchored so securely that it looks like a raging tornado would leave the plants intact.

As the dirt road deposits you in the midst of this 30-plus acre vineyard, it's difficult not to be surprised by the small, temporary-looking building that serves as the tasting room. The building looks so out-of-place in the middle of the vast vineyard because it is indeed temporary. Red Tail's owner and winemaker, Nancy Irelan, has bigger and better plans for the facility. She and her co-owner and husband Michael Schnelle want to try something a little different.

A 15-year veteran of the California wine industry and a Ph.D.-holding geneticist specializing in oenology, Nancy Irelan did not invest first in her vineyard based on a whim. She believes that wines are made in the vineyard, and while this may be the ultimate winemaking cliché, Irelan is very specific about what she means. 

To find the fruit and aroma characteristics she is looking for, Irelan created the vineyard to be something akin to an experimental station, with several varieties under examination to gauge their promise in the region's cool growing climate. One such experiment is Teroldego, a rare red grape from northern Italy.

Irelan has planted many different clones of more popular varieties to see how to best find the flavor profiles she desires. The many rows of pinor noir are made up of several different clones, as Irelan feels that the right mixture of these clones might unlock the key to a wine that shows a lot of potential in the Finger Lakes at times, but in many instances falls a little flat.

The vineyard appears well-designed aesthetically, and this impression is not superficial. If prompted, Irelan can explain in detail all the decisions that were made concerning drainage (the property is extensively tiled), moisture control, erosion control, row spacing, etc. She emphasizes that the methodical nature of the design plan creates a sustainable vineyard that has a minimal environmental impact.

In this spirit, Red Tail Ridge has retained Edge Architecture PLLC to design a tasting room and production facility that carries the ultimate seal of environmental sustainability, LEED-platinum certification (Learn more about LEED certification). If built to the specification of its current conception (see the graphic at the top of this post), the Red Tail Ridge winery will be the only LEED-certified facility in the heart of the Finger Lakes and one of only a handful of environmentally advanced buildings in all of upstate New York.

Nancy Irelan and Michael Schnelle hope to break ground on the foundation of the new facility this spring.

So, does what does a unique building like this have to do with making good wine? Well, everything and nothing, as Irelan explains: "No, it will not have an effect on the wine, but that’s not why we are doing this. This may be 'just a building' to most folks, but it's probably the only winery that Michael and I will ever build, so it needs to be representative of us and our values.  Sustainability is a part of our mind set and something that we believe in."

Admittedly, Irelan came to the Finger Lakes with an extensive capital plan (she originally assumed she would be investing in California's expensive industry) but she has taken the opportunity to use the region's flexible market to enhance her business. I have yet to taste samples of Red Tail Ridge's newest vintage, but I am excited about the dedication the owners are making to the region as well as the spirit they exhibit in creating a unique sense of place.

Red Tail Ridge as a destination will be something to behold, and that's never a bad thing.

PALATE 2009: A Multi-Vintage Finger Lakes Cabernet Franc Tasting

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

The eternal debate among those who follow Finger Lakes wines, and even among those who don't, is whether the red wines can hold their own. Critics point to numerous examples of flat, unripe wines and castigate the entire category, virtually ignoring any promise shown by a handful of outliers. Proponents of Finger Lakes reds cite improving quality and, in their promotion of cool-climate potential, take advantage of the growing sentiment among wine enthusiasts that many California and Australian reds are too ripe, too alcoholic, and just plain overpowering.

Whether or not Finger Lakes reds have yet to arrive as a clear alternative, cabernet franc is widely considered to be the variety that shows the best quality and consistency of the Vitis vinifera reds grown in the region. When I was asked recently to host a tasting for the PALATE 2009 event, it occurred to me that by focusing on what may be the region's best red grape, I could draw attention to the main variable -- vintage -- and perhaps draw some general conclusions.

 On Sunday, February 22, I, with a group of tasters descended, upon Glenora on Seneca Lake, guided through technical matters by Fox Run Vineyards winemaker Peter Bell and his assistant winemaker Tricia Renshaw. Our goal was to taste a flight of cabernet franc from six different wineries, tasting an '05, an '06, and an '07 from each.

The reason I selected those vintages is simple: 2005 was warm and hospitable, an ideal vintage overall; 2006 was cool and damp, good for riesling but leaving many other varieties with issues; and 2007 was hot and dry, and by hot and dry I mean darn hot and dry, a vintage made for reds in a way the Finger Lakes rarely sees.

The group tried wines from Damiani Wine Cellars, Fox Run, Glenora, Lamoreaux Landing, Ravines Wine Cellars, and Red Newt Cellars. During the three-hour event, I implored the group to share their impressions while Peter and Tricia graciously answered questions about varietals, vintages, closures, winemaking, and all kinds of general topics.

To cycle through every aspect we approached in the tasting of these 17 wines (Red Newt did not produce a 2006 cabernet franc) would require a very long post. Since the point of this exercise was to consider vintage and winemaking choices, I am not going to highlight what were, in my opinion, the best wines, although I can say with confidence that the majority of the wines were good to very good.

So, what did the group find?

Wine Grape Task Force Releases Report

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

The Wine Grape Task Force formed last year under the Department of Agriculture and Markets released its report in December (warning: the online format is bit cumbersome to read). The task force lays out an interesting set of recommendations but there remain some lingering questions about implementation.

The report is comprehensive and seems to address many of the general concerns of the wine and grape-growing industries in New York State. It is obvious that many of those in attendance were well-versed, industry experts. Unfortunately, addressing concerns and solving problems are entirely different activities.

As I inferred in a post when the task force was formed, no matter what one writes in a report with the best of intentions, government and bureaucracy stand in the way of getting things done unless the proper stars are aligned. Some of the recommendations could be implemented with minor adjustments to enforcement of existing policies. Many others will require some real changes at several intersecting agencies.

The varied collection of interests that form this task force may be a strength in terms of lobbying for these changes. Concurrently, one of the weaknesses of such a group is that each member has a different set of needs in terms of business and geography. It may be easier to satisfy one constituency which has better representation, lobbying, or even a problem that has a ready-made solution, while other more difficult problems persist in other areas.

One of the elements of the report that will have to be reconsidered is its reliance on the state's ability to push economic development through specific agencies that would likely coordinate with the New York Wine and Grape Foundation. Since the release of the report, the state has been hit with considerable fiscal problems, threatening the existence of the NYWGF as well as the multitude of state programs that provided extra cash for all kinds of unique projects.

This report resembles an interesting perspective on the nature of the New York wine industry. Part of it looks to the future, hoping for an industry less encumbered by antiquated state regulations. At the same time, part of the report wants to rely on the past cadre of state agencies and programs that have tried to promote New York's industries in a centralized manner for decades, with arguably mixed success.

Recent events seem to indicate that the state may be unable to play as big a hand in industry and economic development. As for the future of the New York wine industry, I wish the task force luck as they begin to engage the specific recommendations found within their report, although its unclear if the task force can or will advocate for specific reommendations now that the report has been released.

PALATE Promises to be a Winter Warmer

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

I grew up in Corning, NY, on the southern edge of the Finger Lakes. It has always been a great small city with a tremendous amount of beauty and culture. Every year, throngs of tourists stroll through the world-famous glass museum, visit the quaint shops on Market Street, and enjoy various outdoor music and art festivals.

Of course, that all takes place in the spring and summer. Recently, I was surprised to see an announcement that Finger Lakes Wine Country and Corning's Gaffer District were hosting a week-long wine event called PALATE from February 16 through the 22.

As far as I know, nothing ever goes in Corning in the winter! (Well, I do remember going to high school and shoveling the driveway...).

I caught up with Finger Lakes Wine Country president Morgen McLaughlin and asked her about the thinking behind a week-long winter event. "We are trying to increase off-season visitation. PALATE is in the spirit of the Mustard Festival in Napa, which is actually two-months long."

The name PALATE refers to the genres of wine, food, and art, all three of which will be incorporated into the 2009 celebration as well as the annual tradition that McLaughlin and her fellow planners hope to establish. The itinerary on the website is still under construction, but the week will include barrel tastings from several Finger Lakes wineries, food and wine tastings at Market Street restaurants, wine presentations by local experts and enthusiasts, a live music crawl, and even a screening of Merlove, an off-beat documentary for wine lovers.

McLaughlin expects at least 300-400 attendees for PALATE, although the focus this year is not on numbers and broad marketing but on creating an event that can build upon itself year after year. She has high hopes for the future of off-season wine festivals in the Finger Lakes.

I will be attending at least some portion of Palate with a great deal of enthusiasm as I will get to experience Finger Lakes wine as well as visit my mom and dad: a wonderful combination. Warm weather or cold, Corning is always a delight to visit any time of year.

Jason's Finger Lakes Wines of 2008

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

Lenn asked me to write a "wines of the year" post, but as enthusiastic as I am about Finger Lakes wines, I feel ill-equipped to name a "wine of the year" since the joyous rigors of life keep me from driving around the Finger Lakes as much as I'd like. Through events and site visits, I probably tasted four dozen rieslings this year and sampled the spectrum of varietal selections at about 20 wineries.

That's a lot of tasting, but there are a lot of wineries in the Finger Lakes region (at least 115 at this point). While a few of these wineries aren't into vinifera to any great extent, there are still quite a few that I feel I have overlooked despite the fact that they are producing serious wines.

So, this post is not really about wines of the year as it is a reflection on those wines that seem to stick out the most in my mind for one reason or another. I guarantee I'm missing some great wines, but if you are looking to start with a few interesting picks I hope that these suggestions help.

If any readers want to pipe in with a suggestion or two of their own, then please feel free to comment.

I'll start with riesling. While 2007 was a good year for riesling, I've explained previously that I feel that the complexity and balance of these wines is simply not as overwhelming as the steely 2006 vintage. Overall, I preferred the semi-dry versions to the dry, the former displaying a playful offset of sweetness with the blunt ripeness of the fruit.

One exception to this observation was the very dry 2007 Argetsinger Riesling from Ravines Wine Cellars. A subtle and refined wine created from grapes selected from a single-source vineyard, this is the type of wine that does a little something different every time it's tried. It's not a showstopper in terms of a strong nose or tastes, but its smooth minerality interacts so well with the citrus notes that the resulting flavor is extremely memorable. I could not get enough of this wine.

The other riesling that really sticks out in my mind is the 2007 Semi-dry Riesling from Anthony Road Wine Company. I had an opportunity to taste this wine while it was still in tank, and even in its youth it was a tremendous achievement. The fruit flavors are fully in balance with the sweetness and acidity, creating a real zinger of pineapple and citrus backed with structure. This is a fun riesling.

Gewürtztraminer is beginning to build some much-deserved notoriety in the Finger Lakes. I had the pleasure of tasting several, but the one that demonstrated an amazing complement of flavors was the 2007 Gewürtztraminer from Sheldrake Point. This wine plays with the senses, revealing layers of floral notes, deep spice, and honeyed apples. While many Gewürztraminers in the Finger Lakes are of a fleeting quality as winemakers learn more about this grape, this wine is an example of a very solid result.

One more white that I think deserves attention that made a big impression on my 2008 wine drinking experience. Dr. Frank's 2006 Rkatsiteli. It was a constant standout in social engagements at which I shared this wine with others. No matter who I served this wine to, the reactions were filled with praise for the unique taste and extreme curiosity about the name and origin of the grape. By the end of the year I wished I'd purchased more, but I'm happy that it is still available. Rkatsiteli is a smooth, satisfying, and structured white that I think has a bright future in the Finger Lakes.

By the middle of 2008, most wineries had released nearly all of their reds from the 2006 vintage and some from the 2007. 2006 was a relative disappointment for reds after the tremendous 2005 vintage, with of course some exceptions made by winemakers who can really produce quality reds in mediocre years. I have not tasted any released 2007 reds, although the few I've had from barrel or tank are really showing potential.

So, what red in released in 2008 made the biggest impression on me? It was not a wine from 2007 or 2006, but in fact a wine from the 2003 vintage, made from a grape that is not often associated with quality in the Finger Lakes.

Shaw Vineyard's 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon was released only this year, in adherence to winemaker Steve Shaw's philosophy that Finger Lakes reds should age for several years much like a Bordeaux. I tasted this wine with few expectations since a straight bottling for cabernet sauvignon is rare in the Finger Lakes.

Perhaps this wine was at its peak maturity when I tasted it. If so, its peak maturity was something to behold. Cherry and black currant dominated the palate, with hints of tobacco and wood. These flavor alone, however, did not separate this wine from the pack. What I found most compelling was the finish, which lingered and lingered and lingered, unlike nearly any Finger Lakes red I've had in the past.

Simply put, Finger Lakes reds don't often finish like that, and yet the wine had all the smooth, cool-climate characteristics of other quality Finger Lakes reds. That 2003 was not particular great year for ripening fruit says a lot about the prospect of holding red wines longer for release.

Well, there's the lot of 'em. While I can't emphasize enough my disclaimer that these wines stuck out in a sort of random fashion during my own travels, probably at the same time as I was missing or overlooking other great wines, I'll stand by these few. You may not place them at the very top of your own list, but I think they all have some great and/or interesting qualities that lead to enjoyment.

Chateau Frank and the Economics of Bubbles

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

During a recent visit to Dr. Frank's to compile a profile of its sparkling wine operation for Life in the Finger Lakes, I learned more than I expected to about the hard economic realities of creating such wines in the Finger Lakes.

As nearly all Finger Lakes winemakers will profess, the region is well suited to making sparkling wine. Because of the cool climate, and a wide open harvest window, growers can let grapes hang just a little longer to enhance ripeness and flavor without sacrificing the crisp acidity necessary for good sparklers.

Two of Dr. Frank's team winemakers who work with sparklers, Eric Bauman and Mark Veraguth (that's them at right), cannot stress enough how perfect the Finger Lakes is for such an endeavor. 

"In California we had to dump bags of acid in the tank because of of the hot climate," Eric Bauman remembers from his past sparkling wine experiences. "Here the acidity stays high as the grapes slowly ripen."

Veraguth, who is Dr. Frank's lead winemaker, continues to be excited about the winery's entire sparkling operation: "We have learned a lot over 20 years, especially with the harvest, but the consistency year after year with the (sparkling) wines is amazing."

With such growing conditions, why is Dr. Frank's one of the few wineries that produces sparklers in the Finger Lakes, not to mention one of even fewer that adheres strictly to the Méthode Champenoise? The answer is simple: it doesn't pay.

Dr. Frank's does well with its sparkling wine business, but does so with a significant head start and the backing of an established and profitable still wine operation. As time consuming and labor intensive as making sparkling wines can be, Dr. Frank's owner Fred Frank is honest about the economic hardships of making sparklers. "It's a labor of love," he smiles.

In fact, Dr. Frank's began to make sparklers under unique circumstances. Dr. Konstantin Frank's son, Willy Frank, established Chateau Frank in 1985 in an old winery cellar down the road from his father's main winery. Willy wanted to stretch his winemaking legs but did not want to compete directly with his father. The only product missing from Dr. Frank's original offerings were sparkling wines, so Chateau Frank was born.

Today, Chateau Frank is still separately bonded, although the staff and facilities at Dr. Frank's provide the winemaking expertise and marketing of its products. The sparklers are stored and riddled in the original Chateau Frank cellar under the daily supervision of Eric Bauman. "I spend a lot of time down here," he admits.

To understand the costs involved, consider the sparkling wine process. Most of the time, grapes intended for sparklers must be harvested early. Then, the grapes are pressed and the various lots are blended to make the cuvée of the vintage. If making a Champagne-style brut, this blending requires at minimum the dedication of several tanks to properly balance the three main components individually -- pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier -- and also additional tanks for cuvée blending.

Once this initial drain on resources is complete, the in-bottle fermentation takes place, followed by a long aging process. Labor-intensive riddling and disgorgement is in constant demand as the queue of vintages advances toward corking. Dosaged and corked bottles require more aging. Riddling machines (like the one at right) and disgorgement machines, if employed, are expensive.

If done properly, at least five years can pass between the harvest and the release of the wine. Needless to say, this extended process is not friendly to cash flow considerations. For wineries that want to begin the process, a great deal of free capital is needed for what can only be considered a long term investment.

Benefiting from a nearly 30-year sparkling wine tradition, the team at Dr. Frank's excels at making sparkling wines that are crisp, lively and complex. The current releases of Brut, Blanc de Blancs, and Blanc de Noirs are excellent sparklers, and the Crémant and Rosé sparklers are very enjoyable with the riesling-based Crémant an especially satisfying wine. Compared to their California and French counterparts, these Finger Lakes sparklers are a tremendous value and are also, I would argue, superior in style to many West Coast sparklers that are at least double the price.

If a cadre of patient investors with cash suddenly descended on the Finger Lakes, there is little doubt in my mind that the region would become known for its sparkling wine to an equal or greater extent than its rieslings. The current business conditions of the region, however, do not allow for such freedom for most operations. Perhaps as the larger and successful wineries become more financially stable, they will begin to consider investing in sparkling wine.

In the meantime, Dr. Frank's sparkling wines are an excellent introduction to what the future may hold for the Finger Lakes. 

Pompous Ass Winery Revisited

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

At a recent wine event in the Finger Lakes, a few individuals approached me to express disapproval over my previous post about the upcoming opening of Pompous Ass Winery on Seneca Lake.

Their chief complaint? Some felt that I came down too hard on Pompouss Ass before it had a chance to prove itself. I was told that the owners seemed like nice people.

I'm sure they are nice people, but that's not really the point.

Now that the winery has a liquor license and is open for business, I re-visited the website to see some new content. I found this bit of text: "And for those of you who enjoy fruit-forward sweeter wines, our Red, White, and Blush will be coming soon. R.S. 7%"

Yes, 7%! At 2%, the winery's more "serious" wines are certainly not bone dry either.

I won't rehash my entire critical argument about why I think the Pompous Ass concept misses the mark as a truly funny or appropriate Finger Lakes name, but this follow-up simply stresses the obvious now that the winery is finally showing what it will produce.

A good joke thrives on contrast. A cartoon donkey with a naughty name might work if the wines themselves were quite serious, or were surrounded by other serious wineries (like in Napa, for instance). Instead, what we have here is a cartoon promoting sweet wines, which actually makes sense. That's certainly nothing new.

But, unlike other wineries that have specific sweet wines with fun names, here we have a winery that is only the fun name. It's like if the famous Red Cat became a winery instead of just a label from Hazlitt, a winery that also makes some delicious, more serious wines.

Pompous Ass will probably make a boat load of money on the wine trail and will reward the owners handsomely. I wish them well, but in light of this news I still stand by my original opinion about the name.

The 2008 Riesling Shoot-Out

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

Events sometimes receive an exclamatory billing only to draw attention to an antithetical subtext. The title of the "Riesling Shoot-Out," the brainchild of John Zuccarino of Silver Springs Winery and wine author Thomas Pellechia, evokes a line-in-the-sand Wild West gun fight between Finger Lakes and German rieslings, with only the biggest and baddest wines left standing to proclaim victory.

Of course, the results were far more mixed, and therein lies the point.

The big critics and the publications they work for consider Germany the home of riesling and treat her wines well, giving many a score above the coveted 90-point mark. As this website and others have noted, great wines from the Finger Lakes often hit a ceiling of 88 or 89 points, begging observers to ask, "How can so many Finger Lakes rieslings can get so close to 90 but no standouts emerge from the pack?"

It's a question that both Lenn and I have asked here on LENNDEVOURS as well.

Last Saturday, a panel of 16 judges representing wine blogs, local media, two major wine publications, and even the New England chapter of the German Wine Society, descended on Glenora's hotel and dining facility on Seneca Lake to blind taste a round of 15 rieslings. I was privileged to be one of the sixteen judges.

We tasted the 15 wines, three glasses at a time, in the same order. The organizers told us that these wines were all rieslings, and that they represented Germany, the Finger Lakes, and a single Canadian outlier. No other information was given.

The judging sheet asked us to provide some general impressions about aromatics and varietal taste, and then asked us to give a numeric score on the 100-point scale.

After the tasting was complete, the organizers revealed that there were two repeats (a 2006 Wiemer and a 2006 Prejean, both Finger Lakes wines) in the 15 wine program, so we had really only tasted 13 wines. All of the judges immediately realized, with some mix of humor and horror, that we all had given different scores to the same two wines, with a few of us granting wildly different scores.

At the end of the post I will list the wines tasted during the competition. The general results exhibit what many would expect: the Finger Lakes held up just fine. Four of the six Finger Lakes wines received scores of 90 or above with a total of twelve votes for this distinction divided amongst the four wines. Five German wines received scores of 90 or above, with 15 total votes divided between these rieslings. The Canadian wine received two scores of 90 or above.

The Wiemer and Prejean were the Finger Lakes standouts. The German wines with the most 90+ acclaim were the Donnhoff and the Messmer.

Bottling Reds at Shaw Vineyard

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

Although Ravines Wine Cellars is located on Keuka Lake, owner-winemaker Morten Hallgren crafts his wines using space at Shaw Vineyard, located a few miles to the east on Seneca Lake. Hallgren and Steve Shaw, winemaker and owner of Shaw Vineyard, work independently but of course try to coordinate production schedules to enhance services and manpower.

Before the fall harvest, Steve Shaw invited me over to the winery to watch as he bottled some of the reds wines from both wineries. I was interested to check it out because both winemakers use a mobile bottling line, an operation that I thought would be a delight to witness.

I was not disappointed. The mobile unit, owned and operated by Peter Oughterson of Highland Cellars, is a marvel of efficiency, cramming all kinds of machinery in a medium-sized rig that would otherwise have taken up quite a bit of floor space in a winery's facility. As I scurried around, poking my head in various openings through both sides of the truck, the bottles moved through the long, narrow gauntlet of moving parts, being filled with wine, getting corked, and finally emerging with shiny new labels identifying the contents.

During my visit, I witnessed the bottling of Morten's 2007 merlot, the first varietal merlot that he has bottled. Last spring, I had the pleasure to taste the individual lots that went into this wine, and came away impressed by the robust, ripe, fruit, backed with solid structure and smooth tannins. The final wine is impressive, with a full body that belies the wine's regional origin.

The months of heat and drought during the summer of 2007 are relative rarities in the Finger Lakes region. I suspect that some of the red wines from the vintage will excel far beyond normal expectations.

I also had a chance to taste Morten's 2007 Meritage blend which was in queue for the bottling line. Like his previous bottlings, it showed a great deal of balance with multiple layers of flavors and aromas. It tasted young, but the fruit potential was there, and I'm looking forward to this one much like the 2005, which it may even surpass.

Steve Shaw had already bottled some his reds the day before my visit. Surprisingly, Steve was not bottling his 2007 reds... he was bottling his 2005s!

"Mommy, where do 89 wines go when they die?"

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

The question in the title is not flippant: the ever-frustrating 89-point score is a non-starter in terms of soliciting national interest in a given wine. If Wine Spectator graciously grants a 90-point rating, the wine flies off the shelf. An 89, despite its proximity to 90, results in mediocre interest at best.

The problem is even more vexing for wines from lesser-known regions. An 89 for a well-known California producer will not deter loyal consumers en masse, but the same score for a New York, Michigan or Virginia winery means that the millions of wine drinkers who have yet to even try a wine from one of these regions will, yet again, pass on the opportunity.

But what is an 89-point wine? Can it be that much worse than a 90-point one? Since wine tasting and scoring is an art, not a science, is it possible that an 89-point wine is no less worthy of attention than a wine that scores one measly point higher?

What if, as has been pointed out by me, Lenn, and others, there exists the possibility that editorial bias restricts some major publications from giving 90+ scores to certain regions without the cache of Napa, Bordeaux or Rioja? The number of Finger Lakes rieslings, for instance, that pile up against the 89-point ceiling in a single tasting round is noteworthy.

To explore these general concerns about the 89 phenomenon, the 89 Project blog takes a look at various 89-point wines from around the world, trying to etch away at our psychological predisposition to embrace 90 but reject 89 as something altogether inferior. David Honig, the 89 Project's founder, puts the emphasis in sports terms: "They are a receiver's foot near the sideline in the last minute of a championship game. They deserve instant replay if, for no other reason, just coming close."

Any 89 score is of course just one opinion. Project 89's site is filled with wines that may have been under-evaluated because, as Honig puts it, they are from "Loire, instead of Burgundy, or Santa Rita instead of Napa." The possibility also exists that some wines are given a charity 89 simply due to reputation, and perhaps deserve far lower scores.

As those of us observing the New York wine industry both celebrate and shake our heads at the multitude of 89s coming our way, it is important to consider that we should do our best to promote our 89 wines (and maybe those 88s as well). These just might be our gems, victims of a 100-point scale that is more of an editorial hatchet than a real judgment tool.

In honor of the 89 Project, Lenn and I are working on developing a growing list of 88-89 New York wines that takes into account both the perspective that no consumer should be a slave to the 100-point scale and that the market reality dictates that we continue to pay attention to these scores anyway.

Many wine enthusiasts, including myself, believe that the 100-point scale takes some of the fun out of evaluating and judging wine. We may be right, but at the end of the day wineries need to sell their stuff, and for millions of American wine drinkers a 90 or a 91 is what is needed to inspire experimentation. If framed positively an 89 score is better than no score at all, and there must be a market for those who see value in being just a little bit cynical toward the whole system.

A Grand Hotel Opens in Watkins Glen

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

Last week I had the pleasure to attend the grand opening of the Watkins Glen Harbor Hotel which has been in operations since July. The hotel is located on the waterfront in the Village of Watkins Glen with a commanding view of the deep blue waters of Seneca Lake as it stretches north from its southernmost point.

The hotel staff was kind enough to give me a tour of the facility and some of the rooms. The decor is striking throughout, with strong elements of wood and stone.

The rooms invoke what I would call a New England coastal theme with light wood floors, white trim, tones of blue, and an airy atmosphere framed by multi-paned windows and sliding doors between rooms. The presence of a large body of water and the shrieking of seagulls reminds the visitor that this theme is not only workable but in many ways accentuates some of the qualities of the region that are often overlooked.

Yes, the Finger Lakes can in some respects be a coastal destination.

Watkins Glen is located near many wineries and a popular NASCAR race track that holds a variety of events throughout the year. There is also a state park right in the middle of the village that has one of the most tremendous gorges in the Finger Lakes region. A train line originally built for the salt industry (the Finger Lakes has some of the biggest underground salt mines in the world) runs around the waterfront and can carry tourists to various destinations. 

Despite these attractions, Watkins Glen has remained a sleepy village that has struggled with its transition from an industrial to a tourist economy. This hotel, located on the site of a former jelly factory, is one of many new improvements to an area that is poised to become just as much of a destination as Canandaigua and Geneva.

The hotel takes advantage of its waterfront location and its event rooms, restaurant, and bar are located along a large open patio that has a fire pits for warmth on chilly evenings.  The reception was laid out beautifully and the food was nothing short of delicious. The available wines were, of course, all Finger Lakes.

While there are some nice places to stay in the Finger Lakes, including some bucolic and very authentic inns and bed and breakfasts, there are hardly enough high-end hotel rooms to accommodate a growing interest in the region. The room and the grounds at the Watkins Glen Harbor Hotel would please any worldly traveler and the hotel will undoubtedly provide some needed facilities for all kinds of visitors and events. The hotel has full concierge service and the staff assured me that they will go to any length to ensure that a Finger Lakes visitor has a full regional experience.

The rooms at this hotel are not cheap and the prices might not appeal to those who are used to paying the average hotel price in Upstate New York. If, however, you are looking for a Finger Lakes vacation that includes a spectacular room, a great view, and fine dining, the Watkins Glen Harbor Hotel might be the place for you. 

Riedel in the Finger Lakes (Part II)

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

On the morning of Friday, August 22 the Finger Lakes Wine Alliance hosted a closed tasting of winemakers and critics at Sheldrake Point Vineyards on Cayuga Lake to determine which Riedel glass best exhibited the flavors and nuances of Finger Lakes Riesling.

Later that day, George Riedel continued his tour of the Finger Lakes with a public tasting at Glenora on Seneca Lake to see whether a mixture of wine enthusiasts and reporters -- including me -- would come to the same conclusion as the group of winemakers.

I approached this public tasting with an open mind, having never compared different Riedel glasses while drinking the same wine. I left with a mixed opinion but a new appreciation for the importance of stemware as part of the enjoyment of wine.

George Riedel opened the event with a summary of why he was in the Finger Lakes, a region that he feels is similar to the Riesling-producing regions of Europe. In a line that will be oft repeated by those in attendance, Riedel joked that "it is easier to find wine than gas" in the Finger Lakes, which is in fact quite true. Overall, George Riedel made the audience feel as if he saw a great deal of potential in the rural but dynamic and emerging Finger Lakes wine scene.

The tasting, which Riedel led the group through sniff by sniff and sip by sip, was relatively simple. Before each participant were seven glasses laid out on a Riedel tasting mat, pre-arranged by the Riedel staff. The first glass, on the left, was a small plastic cup. The rest were Riedel stems of various shapes and volumes spread out like a fan and located on their specific circles within the paper mat. 

We tasted three different wines, and after each tasting the audience voted for their favorite glass which was the one that brought out the best flavors and nuances of the wine. The Rieslings, tasted in order, were the 2006 Knapp Reserve, the 2006 Glenora and the 2006 Sheldrake Point.

As the tasting progressed, I could detect through rounds of sniffing and tasting the qualities that the different glasses brought out in the wines.  Some glasses provided more acidity, while others highlighted fruit, and some others minerality. In the case of each wine, the glass that seemed to curry the most favor with the participants was the one that balanced all of these elements.

In every round, glass no. 5 earned top honors, eventually winning the overall vote at 34. Glass no. 4 was a close second, earning 28 votes. On all but the Sheldrake riesling, I felt that glass no. 5 was the most appropriate choice. A later harvest Riesling, the Sheldrake had a higher residual sugar and a touch of botrytis which made it an unusual but interesting example to test against the prevailing glass.

Glass no. 5, officially known as Riedel #446/15 from the Restaurant collection, was also the primary selection of the Finger Lakes winemakers from the morning tasting. It seemed that this particular glass was an overwhelming favorite for highlighting Finger Lakes Riesling based on these two tastings.

George Riedel explained that smell contributes as much as 80% to the sensation of taste in our mouths, and if one accepts that premise then it is easy to see how the shape and thickness of glassware can manipulate or enhance the flavors we associate with wine. I smelled and tasted distinct notes within each glass and nearly all seemed distinguishable from one another. Of the six glasses before us, each added or detracted from the wine in a different fashion. The small plastic cup was dead and lacked all character.

Yet, while I felt that I smelled and tasted radical differences based on the glasses alone, any psychologist in attendance would have been able to note the allure of the "show" being performed before us. George Riedel spoke quickly and confidently through each and every glass, suggesting his own interpretations of what he detected on his nose and palate. Almost from the beginning, I assumed that the glass we chose would come from the geographic middle of the controlled lineup, which it did, and would neither be the tallest or shortest glass, which it was not.

Beyond these reservations, I walked away convinced that glassware does have a huge effect on taste. For instance, I never considered how the shape of a glass makes us tilt it way back, a little, or not at all to engage our olfactory senses, and I believe that many variables like this contribute something to our wine experience. How could they not?

I am not prepared to spend a fortune on Riedel glassware, but I must admit I am intrigued by what I smelled and tasted under the direct guidance of George Riedel, who was kind enough to let us depart with our tasting set. I am planning on repeating the experiment with some innocent victims in the near future to gauge a reaction sans the heavy promotion.

As for glass #446/15, there is no firm plan yet as to how Riedel will market its new association with Finger Lakes Riesling or how the Finger Lakes itself will embrace the piece. Bob Madill of Sheldrake Point, chair of the Wine Alliance and conceiver of the Riedel visit, considers the glass "a quality symbol that re-enforces our experience and projects Finger Lakes Riesling as a world class quality wine." He plans to begin presenting his Riesling in this particular stemware to enhance the opinion of special visitors and critics. Others may choose to do the same.

George Riedel is a businessman who sells very expensive and well-made stemware. That being said, he seems sold on the Finger Lakes as a good investment, which says a lot about the growing profile of the region. Whether or not you believe in the Riedel experiment, there is little doubt that the Finger Lakes and its Rieslings are being taken more seriously by the wine industry as a whole.

Riedel in the Finger Lakes (Part I)

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

Last Thursday night I was fortunate enough, to attend a dinner hosted by George Riedel at Suzanne's Fine Regional Cuisine on the eastern side of Seneca Lake. The weather was fantastic, and the view of the lake was both breathtaking and (because it was looking due west) allowing for the sunset to complement the scenery and create a Finger Lakes panoramic that was truly beautiful.

George Riedel used only one of his famous decanters during the evening, but through this vessel flowed a great deal of wine from the Finger Lakes and all over the world. Representatives from Fox Run, Sheldrake Point, Lucas, Glenora, and Hunt Country were all in attendance, and these winemakers and owners brought samples of their wines to share. 

Riedel was kind enough to order from Suzanne's list many exemplary wines from the Finger Lakes and Europe. There were far too many to keep track of.

The dinner consisted of three main courses of Maine scallop, free-range duck, and lamb, with a cheese dish for dessert. The food was excellent.  Mr. Riedel turned to me at one point and exclaimed that the food was "fantastic."

For an individual who must dine frequently at world-class restaurants, it certainly was a ringing endorsement.

The Finger Lakes wines that were offered by the owners in attendance included Glenora's 2007 Pinot Blanc, Fox Run's 2005 Cabernet Franc reserve, Lucas' 2007 Riesling, Hunt Country's 2007 Valvin Muscat, and Sheldrake Point's 2007 Gewürtztraminer.

All of these wines showed very well, but the Fox Run Cabernet Franc and Sheldrake Point's Gewürtztraminer were real stand-outs, the latter being one of most interesting Finger Lakes Gewürtztraminers I have had the pleasure to taste.

While George Riedel hosted this dinner as a prelude to the tasting exercise the next day, the result of which would highlight one of his glasses as the ideal Finger Lakes riesling glass, it became clear over the course of the evening that he sees the Finger Lakes as more than just another business opportunity. I found his conversation engaging and I believe he sees a great deal of potential in the Finger Lakes wine industry.

Riedel first visited the Finger Lakes earlier this year. It's obvious that he wanted another look. At the end of the day it's all about selling more glassware, yet there's something to be said about Riedel's confidence in the Finger Lakes as a good investment of his time and attention.

For Part II of the Riedel report, I will tell you about the tasting and selection of the Finger Lakes Riesling glass and offer my thoughts on the authenticity of such an experiment.