New York Cork Report

1st Annual Long Island Restuarant Week: November 5 - 12

It's still a couple months away, but the first ever Long Island Restaurant Week has been announced. It will take place November 5 - 12 all over Long Island.

Looking at the website, there just aren't many restaurants signed up yet. Hopefully that will change because this definitely has potential.

Check their site as the week approaches, hopefully there will be more, and better, restaurants involved by then.

Restaurant Review: Waterzooi (Garden City, NY)

By Contributing Columnist Donavan Hall

In one of my (yet to be published) novels I created a Belgian-style restaurant and brewpub in the Long Island town of Port Jefferson.  This little beer fantasy of mine is not so far from reality.  For those of us on the East End who are willing to drive into Nassau County, we can get our taste of Belgium at Waterzooi in Garden City (850 Franklin Avenue).

Denise and I decided to take in the Sunday Brunch at Waterzooi and we were pleased to find ample parking in the public lot right out front.  The interior of is reminiscent of a cozy underground crypt, but despite the grotto-like ambiance, we elected to sit out on the patio and experience our beer and our meal in bright and breezy surroundings because it was such a nice day.

For starters we ordered the Petrus Old Brown Ale from Brouwerij Bavik, a slightly sour Flanders Oud Bruin that was light and thirst quenching.  The Petrus was served from a bottle (as opposed to the tap).  Our waitress (who looked astonishingly like Audrey Tautou in Amelie) poured the bottle at the table.  She roused the yeast prior to the pour by working the bottle in her palms, then decanted half the bottle, then swirled and completed the pour.  I probably wouldn't have been that rough with bottle if I was pouring for myself, but I have yet to find a Belgian-style restaurant whose wait-staff doesn't have the impression that American Belgian beer enthusiasts want to drink a yeast colloid instead of a bright beer.  I heard recently that in Germany one beer bar (at least) was serving the yeasty dregs of it's Hefeweizen kegs in shot glasses for patrons who just can't get enough yeast.  I suppose there's nothing technically wrong with dumping a load of yeast into your glass, just be aware that the beer will taste very different with the yeast than it does without.  Yeast tends to impart a bready character to the beer and it mutes any crisp tartness that may be present.

Try this experiment at home with a Witbier:  Decant carefully the first half of the bottle into  one glass, then swirl and rouse the yeast and pour the rest into a different glass.  Sample and compare.  Take note of which you prefer.

We also ordered Nostradamus from Brasserie Caracole, a dark, thick dessert beer that I thought Denise might like.  She did like it, but we both agreed it was a better beer to end a meal with rather than as a starter, so we ordered a second round after splitting the Petrus Old Brown reserving the Nostradamus for later which turned out to be a good idea since I prefer Nostradamus at near room temperature and it was served to us that day at around 40 °F.

For our next round we order two Wits: a strawberry Witbier called Frubee from Brouwerij Huyghe (makers of the famous Delirium line of beers) and the St Bernardus Witbier.  That was the first time I had tasted either beer.

I was totally blown away by just how much strawberry flavor the brewers managed to get into that 8 ounce glass of Frubee.  Taking a sip of that beer was like sucking on the sweetest, ripest strawberry you've ever tasted.  This too was a dessert beer, but it was light enough in the body to be refreshing.  The St. Bernardus Wit was most impressive.  I'd love to do a side by side taste test of Hoegaarden and the St. Bernardus Wit.  My guess is that the St. Bernardus would put Hoegaarden to shame with respect to flavor and crispness.  That's what I look for in a good Wit, lots of flavor, crisp tartness, and a dry refreshing finish.  It shouldn't taste watered down or finish sweet.  My impression of Hoegaarden has changed over the years.  I believe Hoegaarden has been getting lighter in flavor, but that could just be the natural development of my palate as I seek more and more strongly flavored beers.

This Weekend: Hamptons Wine & Food Festival

The 2nd Annual Hamptons Wine & Food Festival is this weekend. The organizers have gathered a nice roster of celebrity foodies and wine experts this year, including Food Network personalities Sandra Lee and Dave Lieberman, wine experts like Josh Wesson and Mark Oldman, and Top Chef winner Harold Dieterle.

Last year, I didn't talk much about the event -- because they didn't have any local wines there. Instead, they got a big distributor to sponsor the event and poured those.

This year, however, they've changed that with local winemakers Kareem Massoud (Paumanok Vineyards) and John Levenberg (Bedell Cellars) on board as speakers and several other wineries will be pouring.

Sadly, other obligations will keep me from going, but there are some great classes and sessions planned.

Our First CSA Program: The Golden Earthworm Organic Farm

We finally did it. I just put my application in the mail to join The Golden Earthworm Organic Farm's 2006 CSA program. We're actually sharing a share with some friends of ours (Matt and Tara), just to see how we like it and to make sure we don't have too much food. Matt, who used to live in the Hudson Valley has some experience with CSA programs up there and he seems to think that sharing a share will be more than enough for us.

I'd like to thank our local Stop & Shop grocery story for making this move neccessary. Their produce is beyond awful -- flavorless, often well on its way to spoiled and just plain disgusting.

This summer, instead of being forced to eat cardboard-like vegetables...we'll get fresh, organically grown produce. I can't wait.

And, Golden Earthworm also has it's own blog -- even if they don't udpate it much.

Where are the Long Island BYOB restaurants?

Where are the Long Island BYOB restaurants? I never really thought much about this until Nena and I visited our friends Paul and Sara in Philly, the land of BYO resturants. We had a great dinner at Azafran and what a joy it was to bring our own wine.

I know of only two.

• Kitchen - A Bistro (St. James)
• Thai Gourmet (Port Jefferson Station)

Both are awesome, by the way. Great food. And not corkage fee at all.

Do any of my local readers know of any? Please share.

I'm particularly interested because, as you all know, I love Long Island wine and so few restaurants, even those in Long Island wine country offer good local wine lists. And if they do have good bottles, most of the markups are ludicrious (considering I know the wholesale prices that are the maximum the restaurant paid).

Restaurant Review: Mirabelle (St. James, NY)

Saturday night, Nena and I enjoyed what I would term, without reservation, the best meal we've ever eaten at a restaurant.

A bold statement to be sure, but Mirabelle in St. James is deserving of this and any other praise it receives.

Wanting to spoil ourselves a bit, Nena and I decided to enjoy their eight-course tasting menu, which is a steal at $80.

The captain and chef were both very accomodating when I explained my shellfish allergy and seafood aversion and they happily substituted two fo the eight dishes for me.

For her first course, Nena had a trio of scallops, which included a seared scallop with pickled papaya, scallop mousse with soy sauce, and scallop ceviche with frisee. She loved the seared scallop and liked the ceviche well enough, but thought that the soy-based sauce overpowered the mousse. My first course was grilled asparagus salad with quail egg, frisee and dijon vinaigrette. Light and flavorful, it was a nice opening to my meal.

Wonderful Wine Dinner at Red Barn B&B

As I mentioned last week, I put together a wine dinner at Red Barn B&B with several wine-loving friends, including one of the Wine Chicks, a Wine Goddess and a local winemaker.

Our hosts, Jim and Linda Slezak, were beyond gracious and warm. From the moment we arrived the when we stepped out the door we all had a great time. I'd highly recommend their B&B to anyone and intend to do so.

We enjoyed a four-course meal with each of us bringing a bottle or two to pair with a specific course. The wines came from all over the world and each was interesting and good in its own right. And hey, they all went well with the food to...

Are You a Farmers Market Friend?

Those of us near the North Fork of Long Island are lucky to have access to some great farmer's markets and farm stands. But, not everyone is so lucky.

It's possible that that is all going to change...obviously for the better.

Adam Mahler's of Untangled Vine reports on a move among some Representatives in Washington D.C. to help the farmer's market movement. He has set up an interview with the Representative that introduced the bill, so keep an eye out on his blog for more information.

When I first read about the proposal, part of me was worried about the potential for farmer's market homogenization. I mean, if the markets are run by some large entity, and the offerings are the same, what's the point? You might as well go to your local grocery store.

But, in reading further, the legislation proposes that at least 50% of the wares come from local producers, which is good. After all, the joy of these markets is getting to know the guy up the road who grows the best tomatoes and getting the best of what your region does well. Again, if you want non-local fruits, just go to your local megamart.

It's a measure worth keeping an eye on.

 

March 25: NYC's First BBQ Contest -- Grillin' on the Bay

Think real-deal BBQ competitions don't happen outside of the south?

Think again...New York City is going to be hosting its first BBQ contest on March 26 -- Grillin' on the Bay. Some of the region's best pit bosses will be cooking up chicken, pork, fish and even dessert.

I know that I'm going to go if I can (never been to such an event) and if you want more information, visit White Trash BBQ's great site.

Long Island Restaurant I Want to Eat In This Year

Even though Nena and I have been living on this overgrown sand bar for over six years (has it been that long already?) there are a ton of restaurants we haven't gotten to yet.

You may be asking "Why not, Lenn?"

Well, we usually stay fairly local to wherever we're living at the time and sometimes fall into ruts. Our main group of friends also seems to frequent five restaurants...all within a few miles of the town we live in.

So, to help Mrs. LENNDEVOURS and I branch out a bit over the next 11 months, I've compiled a list of the restaurants I want to visit, for the first time, in 2006, in no particular order:

• Panama Hatties in Huntington Station.
• The Fifth Season in Greenport
• The Plaza Cafe in Southampton
• Mirabelle in St. James

If anyone has any other recommendations...I'm alllll ears.

Winemaker's Dinner, Friday, February 10: Jamesport Vineyards and Kitchen - A Bistro (St. James, NY)

On Friday, February 10 at 8:15, Mora's Fine Wine and Jamesport Vineyards will be hosting a Long Island Winemaker's Dinner at Kitchen - A Bistro in St. James, NY .

Jamesport Vineyards' winemaker, Les Howard, will diners through Jamesport Vineyards' wines as they dine on six delicious and inventive course.

Cost per person is $80.99 plus tax which will cover all food, wine and tip.

For tickets, contact Mora's Fine Wine by calling 631-941 4458 or emailing rich@morasfinewines.com.

The Menu
2004 Jamesport Sauvignon Blanc with
Celery Root Soup and Apple Fennel Salad

2003 Jamesport Chardonnay with
Poached Fish Pot au Feau

2001 Jamesport Melanges de Trois (red blend)
Roast Free-Range Chicken over Cauliflower Pureé

2003 Jamesport Pinot Noir with
Cassoulet

2001 Jamesport Reserve Merlot with
Red Wine Braised Short Ribs and Glazed Butternut Squash

Cheese Plate

Jamesport Late Harvest Riesling with
Poached Pear with Polenta Cookie and Hazelnut Gelato

New York Wine & Culinary Center Names Executive Director

Alexa Gifford has been named executive director of the not-yet-open New York Wine & Culinary Center (NYWCC). She joins the not-for-profit organization after more than five years with the Finger Lakes Tourism Alliance, most recently as the organization's president. Under the direction of the NYWCC's board of directors, Gifford will manage the Center's operations and lead a staff of full- and part-time personnel.

"The excitement is building for the opening of New York Wine and Culinary Center, and naming an executive director is an important step," said Rob Sands, COO and president of Constellation Brands, and chairman of the NYWCC board. "Three months after breaking ground on the site, it is wonderful to begin to assemble a dedicated team of professionals to lead the Center. The Board is looking forward to working with Alexa and is excited about what she brings to the table in the realm of tourism, community and government relations, as well as her overall enthusiasm about the center."

The New York Wine & Culinary Center, a $7.5 miilion gateway to New York State food, wine and agriculture, will open next summer in Canandaigua, N.Y. Constellation Brands, Inc., Wegmans, Rochester Institute of Technology, and the New York Wine & Grape Foundation partnered to establish the not-for-profit organization, which will be housed in the new 19,475 square-foot facility. The Center will provide a positive and measurable impact on the region, with additional job growth in hospitality, agriculture, tourism, wine, food, health and nutrition.

Shinn Estate Vineyards' James Beard Dinner -- December 14

On Wednesday, December 14 at 7:00 p.m. Shinn Estate Vineyards will host a winemakers' dinner at the James Beard Foundation. They will be pouring old and new releases, as well as barrel samples that aren't available anywhere else.

The dinner will feature the James Beard House debut of chef Ian Boden, who has been retooling the menu Home for the last six months and is excited about this unique opportunity to cook at the Beard House.

His "All North Fork" feast menu looks absolutely amazing. Tickets are $100 for members and $125 for non-members. Call 212-627-2308 for reservations.

Visit the James Beard website to check out the complete menu.

Going to Greekfest 2005

Tonight after work, I'm stopping at home for a glass of vino with Nena before heading to nearby Port Jefferson for the Greek Orthodox Church of the Assumption's Greekfest 2005. I went to my first Greekfest four years ago...in fact, it was the first time I ever met Liz and John (a now-married couple who served as co-best man and co-matron of honor at our wedding.

There's Greek music, Greek dancing, craft vendors, carnival rides and (most importantly) homemade Greek food and pastries.

Me...I'm a gyro fan from way back. But, as I peruse the online menu there are few other things that may tickle my tongue's fancy.

If memory serves, the wine they serve isn't Greek...or particularly good. So, beer will probably be the beverage of choice--unless I can get my hands on some ouzo.

Must-Stop Destination in LI Wine Country -- Village Cheese Shop (Mattituck, NY)

Sunday afternoon, Nena and I were feeling a bit restless...summer-time cabin fever really. It was a beautiful day and after spending the morning unpacking our wedding gifts and finding room for the various wine glasses, serving dishes, etc...we wanted to get out and enjoy the day.

So, we hopped in the car and headed out east to the wineries (shocking, right?)...with no particular plan in mind.

For as long as we've been visiting Long Island wine country, we've heard about the cheese shop in the region -- the Village Cheese Shop on Love Lane in Mattituck. And, until Sunday, we'd never visited.

Now, it's going to be an integral part of any trip out east.

It's a small shop, but their selection seems amazing and they even have a few tables and a small menu for them. The menu is mostly different cheese samplers, broken down by region, country, etc. But, they also have a few different fondues...something Nena was interested in and a future choice I'm sure.

On this day, we picked up their Italian sampler (complete with sliced baguette and imported olives) and a hunk of local herb-coated goat cheese from Catapano Dairy Farm. The selection of cheese was a bit overwhelming because we're fine cheese neophytes, so we took the "easy" way out this time.

Then, we headed to one of our favorite little wineries, Lieb Family Cellars, to enjoy our cheese and bread lunch with a bottle of their 2003 Pinot Blanc ($17). Almost every time we take a picnic lunch to the wineries, we stop and get a chilled bottle of this, their signature varietal.

So there we sat among the cabernet franc vines, sipping, nibbling and enjoyinga  great afternoon together. At the risk of sounding like an Old Milwaukee commercial, I thought to myself several times as the wine and cheese disappeared "It doesn't get any better than this."

As we talked, Nena and I agreed that we'd both like to learn more about cheese. So that's my next project, finding some good books about cheese before our next trip to the Village Cheese Shop (631.298.8556).

Restaurant Review: Oscar's of St. James (St. James, NY)

Some of Long Island's better (and best) restaurants have one thing in common...they can be found on Routee 25a as it winds through St. James along the north shore of Long Island.

Take a drive along Suffolk County's "restaurant row" and you'll come upon Mirabelle (which is widely regarded as one of L.I.'s top restaurants, Kitchen - A Bistro (a BYO championed by area chefs as their favorite spot to eat), Bella Vita City Grill (a highly-rated Italian-American), and Oscar's of St. James, where Nena and I dined a little over a week ago.

Top-to-bottom, it was one of the best meals we've ever had.

Opus One Wine Dinner at The Plaza Cafe (Southampton, NY)

On Monday, May 16th The Plaza Cafe will be playing host to Michael Silacci, head winemaker for Opus One Winery and five of Long Island most respected chefs for an Opus One wine dinner.

Chefs Michael Meehan, Culinary Director of the Peconic Bay Winery, John Montgomery who is currently planning a new restaurant, Tom Schaudel who owns and cooks at four of Long Island's hottest restaurants, Blake Verity of the Muttontown Country Club, and, of course, Doug Gulija, chef and owner of the Plaza Cafe have put together this impressive menu:

Robert Mondavi Fume Blanc 2001
 The Plaza Café Canapes
 
1995 Opus One
Grilled Local Sword Chop with Braised Short ribs, Roast Garlic Polenta, Spring Vegetable Ragout and Red-Wine Foie Gras Reduction
 
1992 Opus One
Pan Roasted Jurgielewicz Duck Breast with Duck Confit Shepherd's Pie and Braised Endive
 
1999 Opus One
Grilled Lamb Porterhouse, Parsley Root Puree, Sweet Corn Relish, and Red Wine Shallot Broth
 
2001 Opus One
Pancetta Wrapped Venison with Toasted Potato Gnocchi, Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Saffron, Cinnamon and Ginger
 
Baron Philippe de Rothschild Sauternes 2001
Sauterne Poached Pear, Pistachio Financier, Marscapone Cream and Pear Sorbet

The cost is $250 per person and seating is limited. Call 631-283-9323 to reserve your spot.

I had the pleasure of meeting Doug Gulija a while back at a Chardonnay vertical tasting event and this guy REALLY knows his wines. It shows in his restaurant's wine list and the impressive number of wine dinners he holds. I won't be able to make this event...but I'm trying to convince him to co-host one with me sometime. Should be fun.

Restaurant Review: Smokejacks (Burlington, VT)

If you ever find yourself in Burlington, Vermont and in need of a great little restaurant for interesting, locally-grown food and an interesting (and impressively long) by-the-glass wine list, Smokejacks on Church Street is for you.

We loved it so much, we we ate there last Saturday for lunch and again on Sunday for brunch.

Blackwells Restaurant Under New Management

JULY 2006 UPDATE: Both Great Rock Golf Club and Blackwells have new ownership and management. As such, this review may not reflect current the current dining experience.

I've only eaten at Blackwell's once since new management took over, so I don't feel like a new review would be a good one. However, the food, service and overall experience was a million times better. I'd recommend Blackwell's again without reservation.

Once I've eaten there at least one more time, I'll write a new review.

 

Last summer, I wrote a review of Blackwells Restaurant in Wading River, NY. I thought the restaurant showed great promise and it was a place I looked forward to frequenting. Great atmosphere, top-notch food and, at the time, great service.

Boy how times have changed.

The restaurant closed for a while over the winter months as it (and the attached golf course) underwent some renovations and upgrades (new management). But, it re-opened in late March and we tried it Friday night with Liz and John (who had their rehearsal dinner there last June).

I doubt any of us will ever go back again, and Liz and John used to go a couple times a month.

Restaurant Review: Alexandros Restaurant, Miller Place, NY

Growing up and spending my first 20+ years in and around PIttsburgh, PA, I don't think I ever saw a single Greek restaurant--not one. I guess large populations of Greeks never quite made it to Steel Country.

So, I never had Greek food until I moved to Long Island...and even then it was mediocre...certainly nothing I'd write about...even if I did crave it on occasion. I mean, who doesn't like a messy, greasy gyro now and then?

My impression of what Greek food is and could be changed not long after Nena and I moved to our new house...and discovered Alexandros just up the road in Miller Place.