LENNDEVOURS

Medolla Vineyards 2003 Merlot (North Fork of Long Island)

Year-to-year weather differences affect every winery. But when you only make a single wine, like say merlot, each year, it has an even larger impact on your business.

Take Medolla Vineyards for example. Owned by John and Denise Medolla, this new procucer snuck up on me last spring their first release — a 2002 merlot.  2002 is considered by many to be an above average years for Long Island merlot and that wine is a classic North Fork merlot that, at $22, is one of the best deals in local vino. It straddles the line between Old and New World with a nose that offers tobacco aromas along with raspberry and cherry fruit. Medium bodied, the flavors are similar to the nose with some minty, eucalyptus nuances and well-incorporated, ripe tannins. Well balanced with a nicely long finish, it's still available and worth seeking out either online or at the co-op The Tasting Room in Peconic. 

Over the weekend, I got to taste a pre-release sample of Medolla Vineyards' 2003 Merlot ($15). If 2002 was a good year, 2003 was, generally, a bad one. There was a rainy period in October (after a good growing season) and two rounds of frost around harvest time. I've tasted a lot of downright bad 2003 wines, particularly reds, and while I wouldn't put this wine in that category, it definitely pales in comparison to the superb 2002.

A lighter, everyday-style red, this wine's nose shows lots of oak, which comes through as toasty vanilla aromas, with sweet red cherry fruit and tobacco as well. Medium-light on the palate, cherry is the primary fruit flavor here with tobacco, vanilla and some green pepper. It's no where near as rich or intense as the 2002. The fruit clearly just wasn't as good on its way into the winery. Overall, it's a bit of a let down, but with the lower price, the Medollas seem to have de-classified this wine in a way.

With relatively low tannins and nice acidity, it's best enjoyed with food.

Grape(s): 100% merlot
Producer: Medolla Vineyards
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
Price: $15
Rating:  (2 out of 5 | Average)  

 

Paumanok Vineyards 2007 Chenin Blanc (North Fork of Long Island)

As we continue our look at Paumanok Vineyards' 2007 whites — all closed under screwcaps -- we get to a truly one-of-a-kind wine, Paumanok Vineyards 2007 Chenin Blanc ($28).

Chenin blanc is rare on the North Fork — no one else grows it actually — and this is a wine that can be difficult to get your hands on. They don't make much and it has a rabid following.   

The nose is complex and expressive, showing a fruit salad mélange of grapefruit, mango, pear, melon and orange blossom.

A medium-bodied palate starts off fresh and clean with melon, grapefruit and mineral flavors, but as the wine crosses over into the mid-palate, the flavors change a bit, becoming richer with pineapple and honey overtones. That honeyed fruit character carries through to the finish, which is long and delicious.

The texture of this wine is faintly oily but it remains lively and clean because there’s plenty of balancing acidity. In France, Chenin Blanc has shown the ability to age beautifully, and I think this one might be long-lived too. It will be interesting to see how the Stelvin closure will affect that over time.

Grape(s): 100% Chenin Blanc
Producer: Paumanok Vineyards
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
Price: $28
Rating:    (3.5 out of 5 | Very good-to-Delicious) 

Paumanok Vineyards 2007 Sauvignon Blanc (North Fork of Long Island)

Someone has finally put the screws to Long Island wine—screwcap closures that is.

As I reported over the summer, Paumanok Vineyards has invested in the Stelvin closure equipment and bottled its 2007 whites without corks during January and February of 2008. I tasted the lot recently and will be writing about all of them over the next couple of weeks.

Today, we'll focus on the Paumanok Vineyards 2007 Sauvignon Blanc, a varietally correct rendition of a wine that is gaining momentum on the North Fork. I normally don't mention varietal correctness, but it was the first thing I thought of when I tasted this wine, even if it isn't exactly what I expect from Long Island sauvignon.

It has all of the aromas and flavors you’d expect from an American sauvignon though—grapefruit, kiwi and tropical fruit—along with nice acid structure and a faintly minerally finish that lingers just a bit.

I was amazed when I saw on the back label that this wine weighs in at a hefty 13.9% ABV. For lovers of California wines, that may seem typical, or low even, but it's the highest alcohol level ever for a Paumanok white. Don't worry though, it's all in balance and there isn't even a bit of alcohol heat on the finish.

While maybe not a great value at $28, it's still tasty.

Grape(s): 100% sauvignon blanc
Producer: Paumanok Vineyards
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
Price: $28
Rating:  (3 out of 5 | Recommended)

 

Eric Asimov Enjoys Long Island Wine Too

Eric Asimov of the New York Times has written several times about how much he enjoys Long Island merlot. And who can blame him -- at least if you're talking about the North Fork's best bottles.

But as he says today on The Pour, Long Island white wines don't get nearly as much attention. Specifically, he focuses on Paumanok Vineyards' chenin blanc, the only such wine (I think) in all of New York. As coincidence would have it, I tasted the new 2007 vintage of this wine last week and will be writing about it soon here.

Let's get back to Long Island white wines, though. That's why we're here today.

There is an ocean's worth of chardonnay made out here, from steel-fermented wines with crackling acidity all the way to rich, buttery barrel-fermented ones...and every style in between. Most are just okay, some are good and there are a few that transcend. In general though, they aren't very exciting.

Riesling, my favorite of all white grapes, can be good here too. But again, these aren't wines that I'm typically excited about. The same is true for Gewürztraminer, unless we're talking about the one from Corey Creek Vineyards. That's a wine I always enjoy.

The white wines that get me going the most fall into two categories: sauvignon blanc and those made by Chris Tracy at Channing Daughters Winery.

My affection for local sauvignon blanc is well documented on this blog, so I won't go into it too much. I'll just list some of my favorite producers: Shinn Estate, Raphael, Macari, Jamesport and Osprey's Dominion. And of course Channing Daughters too -- and they make two wines dominated by sauvignon blanc.

The folks at Channing Daughters do things a little differently, starting in the vineyard. They grow unique-to-the-Island grapes like Tocai Friulano, Aligote, malvasia bianca, and muscat ottonel. Take those grapes, add chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, pinot grigio, pinot bianco, and put them in the able hands of Tracy and you end up some of the best, most food-friendly, whites you'll ever taste. Keep an eye out for more on some of his latest releases.

Now I want to know, what are some of your favorite local white wines? Leave them in the comments.

The Edible East End Spring 2008 Issue is Out

Edible East End is probably my favorite local print publication. Each of its five issues each year are packed with great stories and information for lovers of all things local on Long Island.

Unfortunately, my column "East End Oenophile" is no more, but fear not, I'll be writing feature stories for them instead, which is much more interesting anyway.

For this month's issue, my lone contribution is some tasting notes from a visit to Bluepoint Brewery's tap room, which run along side a nice piece by James Held.

This issue also welcomes Channing Daughters Winery's winemaker Chris Tracy as a regular contributor with his "Winemaker Wonderings" column.

Other wine-related pieces include a one-pager on Corey Creek Vineyards' 2007 Gewürztraminer (always a LENNDEVOURS favorite) and an interesting feature article on Pindar Vineyards/Duck Walk Vineyards. It really speaks to some of the history behind Long Island's largest producer.

I also think that it might allude to some of the coverage I've given the winery in recent years, but that could just be my ego talking.

You can pick up a copy of EEE most anywhere out east, or visit their still-improving website.

WTN: Shinn Estate Vineyards 2007 First Fruit (North Fork of Long Island)

Sometimes I really (seriously) get sick of all the local chardonnay I drink in covering the region so closely. It's the second most planted variety on Long Island and, by far, the most planted white variety, so it only makes sense that there's a lot of it made, but man, with a lot of these wines, any Long Island terroir is beaten out of these wines by new oak.

That is why I'm still so excited about the local sauvignon blanc that some wineries have put out in recent year, including Shinn Estate Vineyard's First Fruit, which is 96% sauvignon blanc and 4% semillon, their nod to the white wines of Bordeaux.

The nose is expressive with fresh pear, lemon, grapefruit and herbal-grassy notes mingling.

The palate brings similar flavors-with the addition of a squirt of lime and a sprinkling of salty minerality. Medium bodied and impeccably balanced with snappy acidity, this is a wine born beside the sea and one that goes with anything from the sea.

Grape(s): 96% sauvignon blanc, 4% semillon
Producer: Shinn Estate Vineyards
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
Price: $22
Rating:  (4 out of 5 | Delicious, Distinctive ) 

WTN: Shinn Estate Vineyards 2007 Rose (North Fork of Long Island)

I've mentioned it before, but I always find the diverse styles of local rose interesting. Last week, I reviewed Wolffer's latest effort, and in many ways, it's a pink-colored white wine (it's 40% chardonnay after all).

If that's one of end of the spectrum -- a white wine with color -- then Shinn Estate Vineyards' 2007 Rose ($15) is the opposite end. It's truly a pale red wine. It's a unique both for how it's made and the way that it shows actual varietal character.

Many roses are either the result of blending or of bleeding juice off juice to intensify red wines, but Shinn grows a specific clone of merlot specifically for the production of this wine each year.

A medium pink, it’s medium bodied and offers briar, strawberry, watermelon and a faintly buttery note on both the nose and the palate. Dry, but fruity, and with a little noticeable skin tannin this is a rose to enjoy with a wide range of foods. Think barbeque chicken, think grilled salmon, think burgers.

Heck, I tasted it with a barely rare steak over the weekend and it worked surprisingly well. Make sure that you don't over-chill this one. It's better just barely chilled I think.

Grape(s): 100% merlot
Producer: Shinn Estate Vineyards
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
Price: $15
Rating:  (3 out of 5 | Recommended)

The New York Cork Club

It's been some time since I've written anything about the New York Cork Club here on LENNDEVOURS. I used to mention it once a month as we were sending out the wines, but I stopped because I wasn't sure if non-members cared. Actually, I doubt they did.

But you know what? I love this club and it's something I'm really enjoying working on. And, it's something that I'd like to see succeed, because there really isn't another club like it.

There are some other lesser New York wine clubs out there, but they seem to sell their members end-of-vintage wines and wines that are available at least somewhat widely. The NYCC is different. I'm scouring the state for the best, most interesting and most unique wines available. Many of these wines aren't available anywhere but at the wineries themselves...or through the New York Cork Club.

I know that several of you have thought about joining but weren't sure about it. If you're not sure, give it a shot for a month or two and see what you think. If you don't like it, you can cancel at any time. If you do like it, I hope you stick around for a long while. And, we're offering these wines at lower prices than buying them direct from the winery now, so that's a bonus.

I can't tell you what wines we're sending in April yet (though I can tell you that one is from a new Finger Lakes winery and one is from a tiny little Long Island producer), but I highlight some of the most interesting ones from recent shipments:

• Osprey's Dominion 2005 Pinot Noir: Quite Possibly the best NY pinot I've ever tasted...and only available in the tasting room until now.
• Raphael 2002 First Label Merlot: I don't think I've tasted a better Long Island merlot at the price.
• Paumanok 2004 Grand Vintage Assemblage: Though still young, a great blend that will age well
• Medolla 2002 Merlot: They only make 500 cases of this (their only wine) and it's a steal. Classic Long Island merlot.
• Rooster Hill 2006 Semi-Dry Riesling: This was a new winery for me and even though I usually prefer dry rieslings from the Finger Lakes, this one was awesome with Thai.

Now, I'm working with some of New York's best known producers to dig deep into their libraries and pull out some older vintage wines that aren't even available at the wineries anymore. Stay tuned for those.

Sign up today. I think you'll dig it.

WTN: Wolffer Estate Vineyards 2007 Rose (The Hamptons, Long Island)

It must be spring. The weather is getting just a little warmer. The East End sod farms are blanketed in that golf course green. And Wolffer Estate has released it's new rose vintage.

Both locally and around the world, rose comes in as many styles as there are ways to make it. Some winemakers use the saignee method, where they bleed off juice to concentrate their reds — with rose being the byproduct. Some, like Shinn Estate Vineyards, make rose for rose sake, even growing particular clones of merlot in a particular portion of their vineyard specifically for rose.

Others prefer to blend juice from red grapes with that from white grapes. Wolffer Estate's Roman Roth falls into this category, making his 2007 with 40% chardonnay, 35% merlot, 17% cabernet sauvignon and 8% cabernet franc.

Roth, like most everyone in the Long Island wine world, considers 2007 "an ideal growing season" because there were many warm, sunny days and only moderate rain. The fruit for this wine was harvested between September 26 and October 13. After crush, the juice gently pressed off and settled at 50° Fahrenheit followed by a cool fermentation temperature of 66° Fahrenheit to total dryness. Aged in stainless steel after blending, Malolactic fermentation was strictly avoided. Wolffer made a lot of it this year — over 4000 cases — but with another Hamptons summer ahead, they'll need it.

A beautiful pale (extremely pale) copper-salmon color, the nose is very reminiscent of sauvignon blanc with fresh squeezed citrus aromas –- grapefuit, lemon and lime –- with subtle hints of herbs and briary strawberry. On the palate, it continues its impersonation of a dry white wine with grapefruit and lemon staying in the forefront. Only as it warms do some strawberry and raspberry notes emerge. Medium-light bodied, it has great acidity and is no doubt extremely versatile.

Drink it with shellfish, non-shellfish, salads, or on its own on a hot summer day at the beach. Looking for the quintessential Hamptons wine? This might be it. I like just a little more heft and red wine character in my rose, but this one is plenty delicious.

Grape(s): 40% chardonnay, 35% merlot, 17% cabernet sauvignon and 8% cabernet franc.
Producer: Wolffer Estate Vineyards
AVA: The Hamptons, Long Island
Price: $15
Rating:  (3 out of 5 | Recommended)

(About LENNDEVOURS Ratings)  

WTN: Bedell Cellars 2005 Musee (North Fork of Long Island)

Bedell Cellars' 2005 Musee ($65) is a wine that I've gotten more emails about than any other in my three-plus years covering New York wines in earnest. I've had readers, friends, winemakers and wine salespeople all reach out to me wanting to know my opinion of Bedell's new flagship red wine, which has replaced (I think and assume) the Cupola blend in the portfolio.

Made with 78% merlot, 17% cabernet sauvignon and 5% petit verdot, it is a fine effort that does a nice job balancing the power and intensity of the dry, hot 2005 growing season with a bit of elegance and emerging nuance.

Right out of the bottle, the wine’s youth is strongly evident, making it a bit "California" in character with primary aromas and flavors of blackberry, oak and vanilla dominating.

But with some time in the glass, secondary and tertiary flavors emerge, morphing what could have been just another over-oaked red into a wine with complexity and nuance.

Dark berry and plum fruit character are joined by subtle cocoa bean, espresso, spice and herb notes. The tannins are well integrated and softer than you might expect. The finish is long and invites another sip.

At $65, it's not a cheap wine by any means. I'd recommend tasting it first to see if it's to your liking. I like it, but I think there are better local values. Still, it's a well-made wine that is seamless and delicious.

Producer: Bedell Cellars
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
Price: $65
Rating:    (3.5 out of 5 | Very good-to-Delicious) 

(About LENNDEVOURS Ratings)