LENNDEVOURS

Pindar Vineyards Hires Les Howard as its New Winemaker

Pindar Vineyards, Long Island's largest winery, has hired a new winemaker, Les Howard, most recently of Jamesport Vineyards.

Les, a Long Island native, started his winemaking career at Pindar almost 15 years ago when he had a summer job on the bottling line. Now he's back, as head winemaker. He made a lot of delicious wines at Jamesport, and many more will be released after he's gone. He's also a great guy who I've enjoyed talking with over the years.

There are going to be many challenges moving from a winery like Jamesport to one like Pindar, challenges beyond the 7,00-case to 70,000-case production levels. But, if Les is given the freedom to make the wines that he wants to make, we can expect a sharp increase in the quality of wines coming out of Pindar's winery, which would be a very good thing.

I haven't heard what Jamesport plans to do on the winemaking front, but the parting was apparently amicable. Maybe Ron Goerler Jr., the owner, will take the winemaking reins back again?

Anyway, congratulations, Les. I look forward to tasting your first Pindar wines a year from now.

Vineyard Visuals: Late Spring at Raphael Vineyards

Shakespeare and Chardonnay at Borghese Vineyard on July 12

On July 12, Borghese Vineyard will serve up "FOOD OF LOVE," a light-hearted look at love with words by William Shakespeare and wine by the glass.

Produced by Spitfire Theatre, this unique theatrical experience is created and directed by Abigail Anderson, an English director who has worked at Shakespeare's Globe in London and the Royal Shakespeare Company. She has been described by The Oxford Times as "one of the most exciting and eclectic young directors in the UK."

Laugh with Benedick and Beatrice, sigh with Romeo and Juliet, get steamy with Petruchio and Kate! FOOD OF LOVE brings together some of Shakespeare's most romantic love scenes, songs, and poems in a specially created show for some of Long Island's most picturesque outdoor locations. Presented in an accessible, dynamic and humorous way, this is an evening that will delight both avid theatergoers and those new to theater alike.

You'll have the chance to sample Borghese's wines as part of a relaxed summer evening, in addition to exploring the vineyards and enjoying the show. Anderson says, "The beauty of Shakespeare's language is perfectly complemented by the beautiful surroundings of Long Island's wineries. We're delighted to have the chance to perform here and, in doing so, throw the spotlight on to the flourishing wine-growing community on the North and South Forks."

The 50-minute performance showcases the talent of four professional actors, all experienced Shakespearean performers, who will move in and around the audience to create an unforgettable and intimate theatre experience. The cast is: Adam Mastrelli, Jake Oliver, Amy Prosser and Laura Rikard.

Performances will take place rain or shine at 7:00 p.m.

All tickets are $55.00 in advance ($60 at the door) and are available at www.theatermania.com or  toll-free 1-866-811-4111.  Doors open 30 minutes prior to the performance.  For more information visit www.spitfiretheatre.com.

WBW #46: Martha Clara Vineyards 2007 Viognier

Today is Wine Blogging Wednesday, hosted by Dr. Debs of Good Wine Under $20, a blog that has received quite a bit of acclaim over the past year or so. The theme she chose proved to be a bit of a challenge for the guy who tries to drink as much local wine as he can -- particularly for WBW. You see, she wanted participants to drink a wine made from the white varieties of the Rhone Valley in France... things like Marsanne, Roussane and Viognier.

New York is a bit cool, generally, for those grapes, but one North Fork Producer does make a viognier, that being Martha Clara Vineyards.

So, I was able to drink local this time around, and enjoy one of the first releases from MCV's new winemaker Juan Eduardo Micieli-Martinez, formerly of Pellegrini Vineyards and Shinn Estate.

The nose is expressive, but not overly so, showing nice peach aromas with honeysuckle and some just-barely-ripe honeydew melon as well. The palate, which is medium bodied and features a bit more acid than most Viognier I've tasted, offers straight forward peach/nectarine flavors with a lemon zest note on the end of a medium-long finish. It doesn't have much of the oily, glycerin mouthfeel I've found in many of the Viogniers I've tasted, but with so much acidity in its youth, one wonders if it will reveal itself with another year or two in bottle.

Overall, there is a focus and a cleanliness to this wine that hasn't been present in previous vintages of this wine. That gives me hope for the future of the winery under Juan's watch.

Grape(s): 100% Viognier
Producer: Martha Clara Vineyards
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
Price: $19
Rating: (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Recommended)

(About LENNDEVOURS' Ratings)

 

Macari Vineyards 2007 "Katherine's Field" Sauvignon Blanc (North Fork of Long Island)

I know that I sound like a broken record, but the more North Fork sauvignon blanc that I taste, the more I'm convinced that wineries should (will?) rip out some of their endless chardonnay plantings and plant more sauvignon blanc.

These are the most exciting varietal white wines being made here, bar none.

Macari Vineyards, a winery in Mattituck that somehow remains just off of many peoples' radar, has made deliciously fresh sauvignon for many years, and their 2007 vintage may be the best yet.

It pours an extremely pale greenish-yellow in the glass and offers intense aromas of grapefruit, lemon and lime zest with understated hints of just-cut grass and crushed Thai basil leaves.

The palate is mouthwatering crisp and similarly citrusy, with fresh grapefruit and sweet lime flavors accented by a seawater minerality and more of that grassy-herbal character -- but not too much.

The balance between flavor, texture and lively acidity is impressive and the finish lingers nicely. If you want to discuss this wine in terms of global style, I'd say that it lives somewhere between Sancerre and New Zealand.

Or you could just say that it's Long Island, which is what I prefer. At some point, we need to start talking about Long Island style instead of always comparing wines with other regions. What's wrong with being unique?

Grape(s): 100% sauvignon blanc
Producer: Macari Vineyards
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
Price: $22
Rating:  3.5 out of 5 | Very good-to-Delicious)

(About LENNDEVOURS Ratings)  

Wine Bloggers Conference 2008, October 24-26 in Sonoma, CA

It's not every day that I have something as exciting to announce as I do today.

So, without further adieu, I'm happy and proud to announce that wine bloggers from across the country (maybe the world), will be descending upon Sonoma County, CA on October 24, 2008 for a three day conference, the first conference of its kind. It's the Wine Bloggers Conference 2008.

There will be speakers like Gary Vaynerchuk and Alice Feiring, vineyard walks, tasting competitions and wine dinners. There will also be an informal (or maybe even a formal) New York wine tasting if I can get a handful of NY vintners to sign on with me.

Yes, that obviously means that I'm going to be flying out for it. It's going to be amazing finally meeting many of the bloggers that I already count as friends through virtual interaction over the four-plus years of LENNDEVOURS' existence.

My flight is booked. I've reserved a room at a fellow blogger's house and I can't wait for October to arrive.

In the meantime, check out the full press release behind the click. And, if you're a New York winery interested in sending some wines along with me, just let me know. Something tells me that some cool-climate wines will be very welcome after a couple nights drinkin Somoma wines.

The Feulner's New Vintage

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

I was working on a post about Finger Lakes wine late on Wednesday night, but then my wife decided it was time to go into labor!

Our little daughter, Elizabeth Delia Feulner, was born Thursday morning at 6 lbs. 10-1/2 oz. She was 4 weeks early but seems to be doing just fine. My wife, Katie, is beaming and is recovering well.

We are very excited and I'm sure I'll be all the more inspired to drink good wine in celebration--especially when she's a teenager!

Love Merlot? Check Out Merlove the Movie

I heard about this documentary just the other day. It's definitely worth checking out.

Now I can start working to get them to come to Long Island, which would be fun, no?

Howard Stern Tastes Bedell Cellars

I'm a Howard Stern fan and have been for years. I think I was just finishing high school when I heard him for the first time. And, Nena bought me a Sirius radio just so I could listen every day.

Of course, now that Jackson repeats much of what he hears, I don't listen as often on the way into work (because he comes here with me for school). But, I can listen to the replay on my way home, so I can still keep up with what's going on on the show.

Wait, how the heck is this wine related? Well, it turns out that Howard was talking about going to an event at the Friar's Club in Manhattan on Monday night, and event where Michael Lynne was pouring wines from his Long Island winery, Bedell Cellars. Of course anyone who knows anything about Howard knows that he complains incessantly about having to go to any sort of function like this, but he did say that Bedell's "champagne" was very good.

Didn't know that Bedell makes a sparkling wine? Well, it hasn't been released yet, but it's a blanc de blancs and is named B3 (Bedell Blanc de Blancs). Hopefully I'll get to taste it soon and give you a full report.

For now, I guess you can take Howard's word for it. Or not.

Croteaux Vineyards' 2006 Releases

As the Long Island wine community has moved into adolescence, several smaller wineries have popped up on the Island — some focusing on a single style or even one wine. Sparkling Pointe, for instance, has released it's first — you guessed it — sparkling wines. And, Medolla Vineyards, for now anyway, is making merlot.

And then there is Croteaux Vineyards, a new producer owned by Michael and Paula S. Croteau. They focus solely on merlot-based rose wines, and they make three of them.

While a new winery, Mr. Croteau is no stranger to Long Island wine scene. As creative director of Croteau Design, he has designed logos and labels for many local wineries. His eye for design comes through not only in the labels for his own wines, but also in the bottles themselves, two of which are uniquely shaped.

The Croteaus grow merlot, cabernet franc and sauvignon blanc in their their 10 and a half-acre vineyard, which was planted in 2003, selling about half of the fruit to other wineries — namely Channing Daughters Winery and Scarola Vineyards. For their own wines, they turned to industry veteran Richard Olsen-Harbich, who makes the three roses that comprise the Croteaux portfolio at Raphael in Peconic, where he serves as winemaker.

When I heard about the new venture, I thought to myself "Why just rose? They could probably make a lot more money with red wines." But when I asked him why he's not making red wines, Mr. Croteau told me in an email " Everyone else is doing it... why compete? We make beach/pool/summer wine. We are one of the few wine regions on the ocean. I surf, windsurf (and) hang out at Sunset Beach, and don't collect wine. Make it fun, and good.... let everyone else do 'serious.'"

And while the attitude might be less than serious, these aren't wines made using sugary sweet California white zinfandel as the model. Instead, these are dry, classy roses that really show what can be done when rose is made on purpose, rather than as an afterthought.

Each of the three roses, again made 100% estate-grown merlot grapes, is made using a single clone of merlot. They retail for $20 per bottle.

The Croteaux 2006 Merlot 181 Rose ($20) is made from a merlot clone from Pomerol. The lightest bodied of the trio, it's also the lightest color — a super-pale salmon-copper. The nose is fruity but not overly so with aromas dried apricots, red berries, dried autumn leaves and Thai basil. Fresh, clean and summery, it's light and extremely crisp on the palate with similar berry-peach flavors along with the addition of some briar and a squirt of citrus zest on thirst-quenching, but short, finish. Rating: (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good) 

My favorite of the three is the Croteaux 2006 Merlot 314 Rose ($20), which is made using another clone from the Bordeaux region. More overtly fruity, the nose offers a mélange of peach, mango, juicy pear and tangerine. Light-to-medium bodied, the 314 is fruity, but balanced.

The fruit flavors — peach, lemon, mango and grapefruit — are accented by an intriguing minty-herbal note. The acidity is mouth watering and the finish is just a bit longer than the 181. Rating: (3 out of 5 | Very good, Recommended)

I can say without reservation that Croteaux's 2006 Merlot 3 Rose ($20) is unlike any rose I've ever tasted.

Made using a clone from the University of California - Davis, this rose is barrel fermented unlike the other two, which are reared in stainless steel, and malolactic fermentation brings its own unique magic to the wine as well.

Tasted blind, I thought this was an off-colored chardonnay at first because of its toasty oak and vanilla aromas. Behind those barrel-inflected aromas are just the most subtle hints of cherries and raspberries. Definitely the most full bodied of the three, the chardonnay or red wine guise continued on the palate with more toasty oak, vanilla, tobacco, cherries and that hefty body. Despite the oak influence, it's far from flabby — it has plenty of acidity — and has a long, lingering finish that the other two don't have. This isn't what I personally look for in a rose, but it's interesting and has it's place I think. Mr. Croteau calls it a "chardonnay drinker's rose" and it's easy to see why. He also suggests drinking it with Thanksgiving dinner, telling me " Ditch the Beaujolais Nouveau and do Croteaux." Rating: (2 out of 5 | Average ) 

Their tasting room is open just south of Main Road on weekends. They expect to release their 2007 trio about a month from now. Stay tuned for tasting notes on those ones as well.