Winners From the New York Wine and Food Classic

This week, Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard's 2005 Dry Riesling ($16) defeated 702 other New York wines to win the Governor's Cup, awarded to the events best wine. Dr. Konstantin Frank’s Vinifera Wine Cellars was named New York's "Winery of the Year" based on the number, and level, of medals its wines won.

Sponsored and run by the New York Wine and Grape Foundation (NYWGF), a nonprofit statewide trade organization based in the in newly opened New York Wine and Culinary Center.

Howard Goldberg reported in the New York Times, "The wine industry and influential wine periodicals treat the contest as the broadest, most representative index of the quality and styles of New York’s expanding wine industry." And, while probably true, I think it important to point out that not every winery (including some of the best) even send wines to this event.

But, the tasters can only taste what is put in front of them. The wines are tasted blind and by professionals, so the results are legit.

The winners by category for 2006 can be seen below. I only have a couple questions -- again because the panel can only taste what is put in front of them. I can't complain that some of the states best red wines weren't included, even though I think most people familiar with them will agree that New York's best cabernet sauvignon does not come out of the Finger Lakes. So:

Why isn't there a sauvignon blanc category? My guess is because outside of Long Island, no one is growing or making it. But, on Long Island, no one is growing stuff like Niagra or Cayuga either. In fact, there are very VERY few non-vinifera vines here.

A Finger Lakes bias? Maybe. I've heard grumblings of that locally. I think there should at least be an "Other White Vinifera" category like there is "Other Red Vinifera."

What is the difference, for this event, between "Late Harvest" and "Ice/Iced Wine"? I only ask because Wolffer's late harvest chardonnay is made from grapes that are frozen in a commerical freezer, so wouldn't that put it in the "Ice/Iced Wine" category? Maybe. Maybe not. I'll have to see if I can find out.

Sparkling Wine: Chateau Frank 2000 Blanc de Noirs
White Wine: Hermann J Wiemer 2005 Dry Riesling
Rose or Blush Wine: Chateau Lafayette Reneau Emperor’s Blush
Red Wine: Jamesport Vineyards 2004 Cabernet Franc
Specialty Win:e Baldwin Vineyards Strawberry Wine
Dessert Wine: Wolffer Estate Vineyard 2005 Late Harvest Chardonnay
Vinifera Sparkling : Chateau Frank 2000 Blanc de Noirs                                                               Chardonnay: Corey Creek Vineyards 2005 Reserve Chardonnay
Dry Riesling: Hermann J Wiemer 2005 Dry Riesling                                                             
Semi-Dry Riesling: Mazza Chautauqua Cellars 2005 Riesling
Semi-Sweet Riesling: Chateau Lafayette Reneau 2005 Johannisberg Riesling
Gewurztraminer: Corey Creek Vineyards 2005 Gewurztraminer & Dr. Konstantin Frank 2005 Gewurztraminer
Cayuga White: Swedish Hill Vineyards 2005 Cayuga White                                               
Other White Hybrid: Atwater Estate Vineyards 2005 Vidal Blanc
Other Native Varietal: Thirsty Owl Wine Company 2005 Diamond
White French American Hybrid: Red Newt Cellars Red Newt White
Niagara: Red Newt Cellars Blue Newt White
Native White Blend: Lucas Vineyards Miss Behavin’
Blush: Chateau Lafayette Reneau Emperor’s Blush
Cabernet Franc : Jamesport Vineyards 2004 Cabernet Franc
Merlot: Peconic Bay Winery 2001 Merlot
Cabernet Sauvignon: Chateau Lafayette Reneau 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Pinot Noir: Chateau Lafayette Reneau 2002 Pinot Noir
Other Red Vinifera: Keuka Spring Vineyards 2005 Lemberger
French American Hybrid Red Blend: Lucas Vineyards 2005 Tug Boat Red
Mead: Torrey Ridge Winery Scarlet Red
Fruit: Baldwin Vineyards Strawberry Wine
Late Harvest: Wolffer Estate Vineyard 2005 Late Harvest Chardonnay
Ice/Iced Wine: Lakewood Vineyards 2005 Borealis

Comments

[Rob Cole]

Lenn, "Ice Wine" is officially only when the grapes have frozen on the vine. They are harvested in the wee hours of the morning, before the daytime temps can thaw them out, and they are crushed immediately. The process releases more of the concentrated sugars.

"Late Harvest" wines are made when the grapes have been given an extra long hang time, thereby raising brix and lowering pH and Acidity.

These are both very similar things, but beginning fermentation while the grape must is still relatively slushy or frozen creates different aspects.

Simply freezing the grapes in the freezer does not accomplish quite the same thing, because of the chemistry of the freezing of grapes on the vine.

[Lenn]

Yeah, I know all that...but the "Ice/Iced" name on the category leads me to believe that "Iced" might be commercially frozen....know what I mean?

[Rob Cole]

Good point. If that's the case, it shouldn't be in the same category at all. If you freeze the fruit post harvest, it will aid in breaking down cell walls to get you more juice as the wine thaws, and can give you a few days of cold soaking, but there will be no difference chemically in the product.

If "Iced" is a specific category, then they might as well have categories for "Delestage", "Free Run", "Extended Maceration", and any other specific process that can be used for the fermentation.

[Rich]

Hi Lenn, I meant to call and find out what happened to vinifera red blend. Do you have any idea?

[Sean]

Full results are available on newyorkwine.org under the NY Gold tab.
Pretty interesting results - speaks to the question of ratings and taste. Waters Crest Night Watch won double Gold at Int'l Eatern Wine Competition (held in Finger Lakes Region) and a mere Silver at NY Wine & Food Classic.
Then going to a level of absurdity, Pindar's Pythagoras gets a silver while Roanoke's Blend One only merits a bronze. Yikes.
So rating systems are discredited and Competition results are not so reliable. Where to turn? Keep on reviewing Lenn.

[John D. Zuccarino]

You do what I do don't enter any competitions...they are a business...the public likes to be told what to do...dam sheep...I walk my own path...no competitions for me...all my wine are gold to someone...as for Ice Wine you must harvest at 18 F or below to state 'Ice Wine' if it says anything else it been frozen...I beg to differ true Ice Wines are very complex as opposed to freezing the grapes and then pressing...