Quick WTN: Weingut Kunstler 1009 Domdechaney Riesling Trocken (Rheingau)

Contrary to popular belief we in the LENNDEVOURS house do drink wines that aren't from  New York State...including quite a few German rieslings, which are among our favorites.

Of course, sometimes I just don't feel like pulling out my tasting notebook and taking actualy notes, like with this bottle from Weingut Kunstler, which we enjoyed with a dinner of good bread, cheeses and cured meats.

I was going to save this wine for an upcoming WBW (there's a hint for you) but it was a recent gift and he told us it was tasting well right now.

Usually, you expect German riesling to be very light bodied and delicate, but this one is anything but. That's not to say that it's heavy, but there is definitely a boldness and body that is unique. It's dry (which is what trocken means) and, despite it's relative age, still incredibly balanced and fresh tasting.

The nose is minerally and floral and the palate is mouthwatering with delicious candied orange zest, orange blossoms, honey and a little petrol.

This is actually one of the few rieslings I've had with 10 years of bottle age...and it makes me want to hold onto several of the bottles I have in my cellar. Will they age as well? Hard to say, but that's part of the fun, right?

Note: I dug the bottle out of the recycling bin and took this picture of the back.

Comments

[Derrick Schneider]

As a rule, trockens don't age much longer than that. Given that it doesn't seem to be a QmP -- not even Kabinett shows up on the label -- I'm surprised it lasted as long as it did. Nontrocken QmPs can age for a long while, especially from a good producer in a ripe vintage.

I imagine the body came from the extra alcohol? Though the sugar left in a non-trocken German adds its own weight.

[David C]

In my experience, Rheingau rieslings tend to have that delicious weight on the palate -- especially compared to racy Mosel wines. The Domdechaney vineyard is lovely and well suited for ageing, even if it is a Qba (which is where you see trocken designated more often than not).

Mmmm...love riesling!

[Alex]

Kuenstler has in my experience a somewhat confusing labelling policy. The QmP or QbA labelling might often appear on the back label of the bottle. Furthermore in good years (I believe 1997 was one)a Kabinett might have the quality of a good Spaetlese, since the amount of high-quality grapes harvested must have been abundant, so he could downgrade Spaetlese to Kabinett and so on.
BTW, happy to see you try some Rheingau Riesling.
I have some Kuenstler reviews on my site if you are interested.
regards,
Alex

[Lenn]

I guess I'd better do dig the bottle out of the recycling bin and take a picture of the back label, eh? ;)

[Alex]

Haha thanks for the backlabel picture, I hope you didn't have to reach too far into the bin ;=)

Apparently it is a QbA since the backlabel only says Qualitaetswein and doesn't mention a Praedikat.
On the other hand the front label mentions a vineyard name which is unusual for a QbA. I guess the wine didn't match the winemaker's personal idea of a Praedikat and thus he "downgraded" it. He still lists it under "our great Single-Vineyard Rieslings'" on his 2007 pricelist.
German labels can be too confusing. :=)

cheers,

alex