New York Cork Report

WBW #37 Roundup Posted | WBW #38 Announced

In case you missed it, the good doctor has posted the roundup for Wine Blogging Wendesday #37 Go Native. And, I'm happy and proud to report that a record 52 entries were submitted. Thanks, Tyler, for hosting and for drumming up so many participants. Perhaps our new event portal has helped as well.

And, the WBW train keeps moving forward as well, with one of my favorite blogs, Catavino hosting. For anyone who knows Ryan and Gabriella, it should come as no shock that they have chosen Portuguese wines for the them, but with a few caveats.

I'm not going to ruin the surprise rules, but they are going to make it a challenge for some to find wines that apply. I know that I have very few local places to get ANY wines from Portugal, but I'll make it happen. Portugal is a country whose wines I've barely explored at all, so I'm looking forward to October's event as an educational experience.

New York Cork Club: September Selections

I have to tell you, I really love my job. Well, I like my day job too, but picking the wines for the New York Cork Club is a lot of fun. Wineries from all over New York are very excited about it and have been asking me to taste all sorts of wines--some good, some bad, some awful, some awesome.

For September's shipment, we've put together a duo that is perfect for this time of year.

As we head into fall, we'll still have the occasional hot, summer-like day. For those days, I've included Atwater Estate Vineyards Estate White ($10), which I think is the best $10 wine in the state.

A non-vintage, steel-fermented blend of 44% Vidal Blanc, 39% Cayuga White and 15% Villard it is just a tremendous value. It’s dry (with only 1% residual sugar) and displays intense fresh citrus, floral and mineral aromas. Medium-to-light bodied on the palate, it has terrific acidity that balances similarly intense fruity-floral flavors on the palate. The finish is just a little tart, clean and surprisingly long. Don't ponder this wine. Chill it moderately and drink it--either on its own or with fish, chicken or summer veggies.

Of course, we can have cool, blustery days this time of year too, but I've got you covered there as well with Bedell Cellars 2005 Reserve Merlot ($40). We were lucky to get this wine actually. It won "Best Merlot" at the recent 2007 New York Food & Wine Classic and started to fly off the shelves even more quickly. But, we got some and you'll be glad we did.

2005 was a hot, dry growing season on Long Island's North Fork and the resulting ripeness is on full display here. Loads of blackberry preserve, fresh fig and cafe mocha aromas reach right up out of the glass and pull you in. Big, lush blackberry flavors fill the mouth, with rich chocolate and a little vanilla in the background. The extracted, broad flavors carry through from beginning to end. The structure is a little firm and this wine is very full-bodied for the region and the finish is lengthy, if just slightly astringent.

This is a very very young wine, and it is a little one-dimensional right now. You an either drink it now and enjoy those gobs of fruit, or put it in your cellar for a few years (up to 10 I'd say). The tannins should mellow revealing layers of complexity and the secondary aromas and flavors that make Long Island merlot so special.

In three to five years, when other wineries are just releasing their 05s, this wine could already be a classic.

Learn more about the New York Cork Club and Join Today.

Seasonal Sundays and This Week on LENNDEVOURS

This time of year, seasonal takes on a whole new meaning in the LENNDEVOURS household. Instead of talking about the produce that is just coming in on the East End, it means football season--more specifically Steelers season.

As you can see by Jackson's expression, the Pittsburgh Steelers are serious business around here. So, it will be rare that many Sundays result in posting here. You see, my options for actually watching the Steelers every Sunday are:

1. Drive to the local sports bar and get stuck watching a tiny TV in the corner, surrounded by a bunch of Jets and Giants fans watching the bigger screens.
2. Drive almost an hour to my buddy Matt's apartment, where he has DirecTV and NFL Sunday ticket. Oh, and he's a fellow Steelers fan as well.

I'm sure you can imagine that #2 is the way to go 9 times out of 10. But, it means planning (food and drink) and Jackson's nap schedule also plays a part in departure and arrival times.

But, even though this post isn't about anything food or wine related that is happening today, I can tell you a little bit about what's coming this week on LENNDEVOURS:

Monday: Announcement of the New York Cork Club's September Selections
Tuesday: LENNDEVOURS Q&A with Roman Roth of Wolffer Estate 
Wednesday: 3 California (yes, California) Chardonnays
Thursday: Current Red Releases at Pellegrini Vineayrds
Friday: Preview of My 1995 LI Reds Tasting

What is this 1995 red tasting you may ask. Well, I've gathered almost a case of reds from Long Island's 1995 vintage--merlot, cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir, blends--and will be co-hosting a tasting at Grand Cru Classes Sunday night. The tasting panel is still being worked out (it's harvest season, so winemakers can't fully commit in some cases) but we should have a couple winemakers show up, along with some sommelier/wine directors from local restaurants, and at least one blogger.

There will also e other thing sprinkled in with the above stories...so check back and see.


 

Q&A With Adam Roberts: He's Anything But an Amateur Gourmet

This morning, we have a special guest here at LENNDEVOURS. You may know his simply as Adam Roberts or The Amateur Gourmet. But to me, he's one of the best--and most entertaining--food bloggers around. And, he's written a book titled The Amateur Gourmet: How to Shop, Chop, and Table Hop Like a Pro (Almost).

We're proud to welcome Adam as he continues his virtual book tour, and while wine isn't a big part of his new book, we thought we'd talk a bit about it anyway.

LENN: Good morning, Adam, and thanks for taking the time to sit down with us. Your book is at least partially about your transition from microwave cooking guru to true gourmand. Have you had a similar transition in your beverages?

ADAM: Yes, I think I have had a similar transition with beverages. I mean, look, I won't lie: I'm still pretty naive when it comes to wine. I can tell a white from a red, usually by the color, and that's about it.

LENN Do you remember the first bottle of wine that you tasted?

ADAM: The first bottle of wine that I had... hmmm... the Manischevitz we drank at Passover growing up? And I really liked that: I like sweet drinks, even though most people think it tastes like cough syrup.

LENN: In your book, we learn that you and your parents ate out almost every night. Did your parents drink wine when you were growing up--at all those restaurants?

ADAM: Yes--though my dad would usually have a cocktail (a Tanquerey and tonic) while my mom would order wine by the glass. She'd almost always order Chardonnay, when it was trendy she drank Merlot, and now I bully her into drinking Riesling and Pinot Noir. She really likes California Chardonnay, though, that's her favorite.

LENN: And do you remember the first bottle where you said "Hey, this stuff is good."?

ADAM: It's hard to pinpoint a specific bottle from a specific time, but I've definitely had illuminating wine moments. Just recently I made a rib-eye steak and the man at my local wine shop suggested a Spanish Priorat to go with it.

I'd never had a Priorat, and somehow the spiciness of the wine--the boldness--took the whole steak-eating experience to a new level. It's difficult to explain to someone who doesn't drink, but the complexity of the wine creates a supernatural mist in your mouth that makes the steak taste like a gift from the gods. 

LENN: When the Amateur Gourmet isn't enjoying wine, what does he drink?

ADAM: The Amateur Gourmet isn't much of a drinker, but when I do drink (and I assume you mean drinking alcohol) I enjoy my dad's drink, a Tanquerey and Tonic, because it's crisp and refreshing. I also like to drink specialty cocktails when visiting a restaurant with an adventurous drink menu. For example, at Babbo I always get the Bellini because it changes seasonally. I was just there recently and they had a passionfruit bellini that was tingly and delightful.

LENN: In your book, you lean on Derrick Schneider as your wine expert. When did you first meet Derrick and why did you ping him for your pairings? You know that he lives all the way in the Bay area and you have a wine blogger much closer *ahem*.

Heck, Clotilde, had that New York blogger do pairings for her book, and she's in France! 

ADAM: You have no idea how much campaigning Derrick did to be my wine expert. Singing telegrams at 5 in the morning, airplanes flying over head with banners that read "Make Me Your Wine Expert." You, on the other hand, didn't even bother to send me a case of expensive Champagne. How could I pick you?

But, in all seriousness, I first met Derrick a year or two ago when he and his wife Melissa (a long-time reader of my site) visited New York and invited me to dinner at Craft. We had a great time and I learned a great deal about wine that night (one of the stories from that dinner is in the book). So when it came time to make pairings for my final feast, I turned to Derrick and he was great. Now when I think about leg of lamb I hear Derrick's voice in my head cheering: "Rhone! Rhone! Rhone!" Do you agree with that pairing, Lenn?

LENN: Yes, I do actually. But enough about me--err that New York wine blogger--let's get back to your book. As an avid reader of Amateur Gourmet, I was a little worried that the book would be filled with stuff that I already knew about you. Stories you've already told. Leftovers reheated.

What I loved about it was how familiar it all seemed and how comfortable, but I learned a lot more about you. Was it a challenge to be even more personal with the book, given the personal nature of your blog to begin with?

ADAM: Well thank you, I'm glad you had that reaction. The thing about the blog is, I can talk about Craig (my boyfriend), Diana (my roommate), my parents, my brother, over and over again and then one day a new reader pops up and I make a reference to Craig or Diana or my Aunt Phyllis and the reader says, "Who's Craig? Who's Diana?" and that grows frustrating after a while. WIth the book, there's a greater sense of permanence. I introduce a "character" and presumably the reader, who is reading the book from beginning to end, will remember who this person is, their relationship with me, and will appreciate it when the character pops up again later. So it's easier to be personal with the book because I don't have to keep explaining who everyone is.

LENN: Overall, was it easier or harder to write this book than you expected?

ADAM: Hmmm...both? I mean, it was easier than I expected in that I had a lot of energy to do it, I was very eager to write my first book, and many of the chapters wrote themselves. It was harder in that with a book, unlike writing a blog post, writing those chapters is just the beginning. Then you re-read what you've written, you revise, you tinker, you move things around, you start again. Then, when that's done, you read it again and you tinker again, you throw things out, you hate the first chapter, you love the last chapter and so on. And THEN you send it to your editor who reads it and says, "It's great! But Chapter 7 isn't working; I don't get why you made that choice in Chapter 5; and the Introduction needs work." And you do it again. Then you send it back. And it happens again. And again. And again. It's unbelievable how much work goes into writing a book. Then there's a proofreader... and then there's the first pass... the second pass. I've read my book 800000 times.

LENN: Are you planning to write another book? Somehow I can see you doing a series of city-focused, food travel books. You know, like Bordain but without the vulgarity and offal.

ADAM: Ha. Well, I'd like to write another book but I'm not quite sure that'll be the angle. I have a few ideas up my sleeve, including: "Lenn Thompson: The Unauthorized Biography."

LENN: Okay, back to wine again, this is a wine blog after all. Do you have a 'house' wine that you drink regularly?

ADAM: Pinot Grigio, because it's crisp, it's light, and it's cheap. These days I'm loving Pinot Noir. I made chili the other night for a group of friends and both sets of friends brought Pinot Noir and it was terrific. I'm starting to really like red.

LENN: Is there a 'classic' wine or wine and food pairing that you just can't make yourself enjoy?

ADAM: Nope! I like it all. Although (and lean in closely, so I don't offend anyone): I think I like French wines better than Italian wines. Shhh... it's our little secret.

LENN: I prefer French wine too, so we'll both keep that secret.  Wine enjoyment is about more than just the wine itself. Describe the combination of wine, locations, food, company, etc. that would make (or has made) for the ultimate wine-drinking experience. I assume Craig would be involved.

ADAM: Ok it's the most notorious thing I've done on my blog next to breast cupcakes and offending New York food icons, but that dinner Craig and I had at Alain Ducasse was just one of the most deliriously happy nights of my life. We were in this VIP room, everyone was doting on us, the food was very good but the wine was EXCELLENT and the sommelier explained everything so thoroughly and with such passion that it lifted the experience beyond anything I'd experienced before. I'm not sure what it was about that wine---maybe because it was such an eclectic list?--but I'd never tasted anything like it. The sommelier would describe vineyards in French countrysides and then I'd take a sip and suddenly I was a little boy in a beret running through a field humming the theme from "The Umbrellas of Cherbourg." We didn't take the subway home that night, we floated home on a cloud of gastronomic ecstasy.

And, naturally, the feast I cooked for the last chapter of my book. That was a really special night---I'll let your readers discover that when they read the book themselves.

LENN: And last, but not least, when are you and a few of your friends going to come to Long Island wine country so I can show you around?

ADAM: How's next month? Seriously! And I may bring a video camera, I want to start doing more videos on my site. I'll make you a star!


Get Adam's book today. I highly recommend it.

Wine Blogging Wednesday #37: Ravines Wine Cellars 2006 Keuka Village White (Finger Lakes)

Wine Blogging Wednesday is back again--this time for its 37th edition, hosted by none other than Dr. Vino himself. The theme is "Go Native" and the good doctor has asked us to drink a wine made from indigenous grapes.

As someone who writes about, and tastes, a lot of New York wines, there are a lot of non-vinifera wines that cross my palate. And, I could have dug around in my cellar for a New York-made concord wine and followed the letter of the law exactly. But frankly, most of those wines aren't my cup of tea?

Instead, I wanted to find something that would be a good example of non-vinifera wine. One that would prove that quality wines can, and are, made with grapes outside of the vinifera family.

Thanks to winemaker Morten Hallgren of Ravines Wine Cellars, I was able to do just that.

Morten, who was raised in Provence, is making some of the best wines in the Finger Lakes. With a diverse winemaking background that took him from France, to Texas to North Carolina, he is best known in these parts for his six years as head winemaker at Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars.

In 2000, Morten and his wife Lisa bought 17 acres of land on a glacier-carved hillside on the eastern slopes of Keuka Lake. This land is located at the widest part of the lake which allows grapevines to receive maximum benefit from its temperature-moderating effects. It has well-drained soils and is situated between two deep ravines, which drain cold air from the land during the winter. These ravines are the namesake of the winery.

I'm tasting my way through Ravines' current offerings this week, but the most surprising by far has been the 2006 Keuka Village White. The bottle doesn't hint at the grapes inside, but this wine reminds me of an affordable blend from Alsace--like Pierre Sparr Alsace One or Hugel's Gentil.

The nose is fruity and fresh with loads of melon and peach with just a little floral character and minerality. Medium-to-light bodied those some fruits dominate the palate with slightly tropical hints as well. There is a light sweetness to the wine, but more than enough acidity to bring balance.

You might be thinking that I totally ignored this month's theme. Don't those Alsatian blends feature grapes like riesling, Gewürztraminer and pinot blanc? They sure do, but remember that this wine reminds me of those blends, it isn't one.

This wine is actually a blend of 80% Cayuga White and 20% Vignoles. Vignoles usually finds itself destined for dessert wines, but that isn't the grape I'm focusing on for WBW. Instead, let's talk about the Cayuga White.

Yes, it's a cross between Schuyler and Seyval Blanc--two hybrids--so not technically a native grape, but, it was developed at Cornell University's New York State Agricultural Experiment Station in Geneva, New York (that's in the Finger Lakes) specifically to succeed in the sometimes-challenging growing conditions there. It is a hardy variety with some bunch-rot disease resistance, but can easily result in foxy, grapy flavors if not picked early enough. Clearly the grapes that went into this wine were picked before those flavors developed, because this is the first Cayuga-dominated wine I've tasted that I've actually enjoyed...and would buy and drink again. It's not a wine to contemplate, but it's absolutely balanced, fresh and delicious.

Grape(s): 80% Cayuga, 20% Vignoles
Producer: Ravines Wine Cellars
AVA: Finger Lakes
Price: $12
Rating: (3 out of 5 | Very Good) 

(About LENNDEVOURS' Ratings)

Mail Order Grapes in the Finger Lakes

By Finger Lakes Correspondent Jason Feulner

This past spring, the comments of some LENNDEVOURS readers concerning the origin of grapes for Dr. Frank's second label, Salmon Run, elicited a response from Fred Frank, president of the winery. His explanation as to the origin of these grapes for the value-priced Salmon Run line reveals the market pressures that are brought to bear on Finger Lakes wineries. Bad winters can kill some species of vines, creating legitimate regional shortages.

Dr. Frank's and other quality wineries did face some supply problems over the last several vintages. Luckily, the relative mildness of recent winters and increased plantings have already eased this shortage.

Yet, when does the occasional bad winter explanation give way to the simple fact that some wineries are unable or unwilling to procure locally-grown grapes of certain varietals? Is there any reason for a Finger Lakes winery to continue to produce and market wines that simply do not thrive in a cool growing climate?

I am not implying that it is impossible to grow cabernet sauvignon or merlot in the Finger Lakes and make decent wines from such grapes, but shouldn't such an accomplishment speak for itself? Wineries with learned and dedicated winemakers will either grow these reds themselves or form relationships with quality growers.  In a good vintage, these winemakers will bottle these varietals as stand-alone wines or blend them into carefully crafted meritages. The label says Finger Lakes.

Despite the existence of true Finger Lakes reds, far too many wineries rely on the New York or no appellation label to consistently offer wines that have name recognitio--merlot being the most abused varietal. A few wineries that are well-known and recognized for their general quality are not opposed to offering a merlot that is made predominantly from New York grapes (likely sourced from Long Island). 

During a recent tasting at a Cayuga Lake winery, I asked the server if the winery grew any of its own merlot or used local farms. "No, I'm pretty sure it all comes from Long Island," she told me.

I was standing near the shore of Cayuga Lake, not on Long Island or anywhere near it. If I wanted to taste a Long Island merlot, shouldn't I have purchased one or visited a Long Island winery?

Unfortunately, this practice does not end with the warm-weather reds. A recent scan of a large Syracuse wine retailer with a comprehensive Finger Lakes section revealed a small but significant number of wineries that were using New York grapes, not Finger Lakes grapes, for all kinds of varietals both red and white.  A very limited number even use the no AVA designation on their labels at all.

I'm a pragmatic person and I understand that wineries often engage in practices that push a healthy profit.  Excess grapes can be purchased more cheaply from certain regions. That's fine, but I'm curious as to why I should have to sort through 100 different wineries only to find out that a decent number are producing certain wines that have nothing to do with the Finger Lakes. I imagine that the mail delivers grapes and juice anywhere. Some wineries could just as well be located in, well, California.

Wine lovers do not have to be sourcing police, and there are legitimate reasons why the occasional New York designation should find itself on a quality Finger Lakes bottle. Producers should try and limit this practice, however, since it seems hypocritical to promote a region as a wine destination when both the grapes and the people are visitors. Emerging wine regions like the Finger Lakes will find success if they emphasize the unique nature of the wines they grow and produce.

I hope there's more than a niche market out there for Finger Lakes wineries that want to explore their terrior to its fullest, come success or setbacks.

Long Island's 2007 Harvest Has Started

Just in case anyone was curious...wineries on the End End--those that make bubbly anyway--have started harvesting.

Harvest is upon us people.

UPDATE: I just heard from Macari Vineyards that they've harvested some chardonnay for their Early Wine...which you all know I enjoy.

WTN: Harbes Family Vineyard, Current Releases

Harbes is one of the most recognizable names on the North Fork of Long Island.

And, Harbes Family Farm in Mattituck is a one-stop-shop for the North Fork agri-tourism experience. There's the pick-your-own berry operation, which is always fun and a great way to get the freshest berries possible. Cross over Sound Avenue and you'll find an array of plants, including annuals, perennials, hanging baskets and--as we head into fall--mums.

This main farm stand also offers delicious baked goods (the baguettes are great), locally made jams and hot sauces, as well as picnic tables, a place for children to play, a corn maze and live music regularly. Harbes is also home to one of the North Fork's most popular fall festivals, which provides pumpkin pickers with a corn maze, hay and pony rides and candy apples.

Me, I go for the corn-super-sweet, succulent corn that explodes in your mouth it's so crisp and fresh. We've been eating it raw in salads, charring it over a grill to make salsa and roasting it ever so lightly to eat right off the cob. I've tasted corn from at least a half dozen farms this summer, and nothing beats Harbes.

But enough about the food. You probably come to LENNDEVOURS to read about wine, right? Well, you may not know that the Harbes family also grows wine grapes, and has released their first wines.

The labels for both their 2005 Merlot ($16) and 2005 Chardonnay ($14) describe their vineyard as a "unique stony hillside ideal for extraordinary wines" and Kareem Massoud of Paumanok Vineyards-where the wines are made-describes it similarly, telling me in an email "It is nicely situated on a south-facing slope, about as a good a slope as you can find on Long Island, which we all know is generally flat. It is a well-maintained, young vineyard." They have around 2.5 acres each of chardonnay and merlot.

But how are these wines-which can be picked up just behind the main farm stand in a charming, rustic shack that could only be improved with real glassware rather than clear plastic cups? In a word, promising. But, young vines--which these certainly are--tend to result in less flavorful, less interesting fruit and thus, wines.

The chardonnay, which at $14 is a relative bargain for a barrel-fermented rendition, is a young wine and the fruit seems to be lurking in wait with just the faintest aromas of pineapple and roasted apples. Warming vanilla and caramel notes are joined by just a little sweet corn (I assure you that none of that delicious corn actually went into the wine).

On a medium-bodied, somewhat creamy palate, the oak is a little raw for my taste and isn't balanced by that timid fruit. That said, barrel-fermented chardonnay is extremely popular and this is a serviceable wine in that style. Just don't over chill this wine-the oak is overwhelming right out of the fridge. 392 cases were made.

I'm looking forward to their 2006 steel-fermented chard, which hasn't been released yet.

I was much interested in their soft, fruity merlot. Medium-bodied and just a little juicy it offer loads of black cherry and plum fruit aromas that are accented by faint hints cocoa powder. The palate is straightforward--with bushels of cherries and a little chocolate--but relatively low tannins make this a nice, gulplable wine. There are many local wines priced much higher that aren't as good.

---

Harbes Family Vineyard 2005 Chardonnay
Grape(s): Chardonnay
Producer: Paumanok Vineyards
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
Price: $14
Rating: (2 out of 5 | Average)

Harbes Family Vineyard 2005 Merlot
Grape(s): Merlot
Producer: Paumanok Vineyards
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
Price: $16
Rating: (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Recommended)

(About LENNDEVOURS' Ratings)

Wine Library TV Has Fun With Long Island Franc

I've been talking about Long Island's cabernet franc wines for a while...even daring to question merlot's supremacy because of my love affair with franc.

Well, Gary Vaynerchuk over at Wine Library TV loves cab franc too, especially those from the Loire Valley. Late last week though, he looked much closer to home, drinking three Long Island renditions.

I for one am glad to see Gary getting back to basics. He's toned down the theatrics and is really doing more educational work again with WLTV. And incidentally, for $13, the Pellegrini bottle was a steal. I say was because it sold out on Wine Library not long after the episode ran.

Anyway, watch below...and ignore what Gary said about franc being a focus in lieu of chardonnay or merlot. That's not true...at least not yet.

Take Me Out to the Ball Game...With Wine?

It's impressive to me how Long Island wines, on the whole, have improved over the past few years. Sure, there are still plenty of clunkers to be tasted, but it seems like the middle-of-the-road wines are better and the regions best wines are that much better lately.

But good juice is only part of the package. To sell improving that wine, Long Island wineries need to market and promote themselves. Wine isn't a "build it and they will come" sort of industry.

Local producers do seem to be getting better at building relationships with their customers and attracting new ones. I'm seeing more events that go beyond the tried, true and boring "come to our winery, drink some wine and listen to some mediocre band" events. Several local wineries have upgraded their websites of late too--a welcome and long overdue bit of news.

Speaking of new strategies, Palmer Vineyards is using America's past time to reach out to a new group of people who may or may not remember that there are world-class wines made so close to home.

In early August, Palmer signed on as the official winery of both the New York Yankees and New York Mets Radio Networks for the rest of the current season--making it the first winery ever to sponsor a Yankees or Mets radio broadcast.

The arrangement builds upon owner Bob Palmer's idea to win over the largely beer-drinking sports crowd--an effort that began earlier this year with a deal to be the only wine sold at New York Islanders hockey games at the Nassau Coliseum.

Palmer, a veteran advertising executive, told me in a recent email that "As a long-time sports fan, I have always been convinced that wine had a place in beverage selections while enjoying sports. I thought that if we could make a go of it with hockey, the least likely "wine friendly" sport, then we could expand to other sports venues."

And expand they have. By inking the deal with both local baseball teams, Palmer's name will be reaching millions of people with each broadcast. The Yankees draw an estimated 1.8 million to 2.1 million listeners per game through their flagship station WCBS (880 AM), according to Wax. Mets broadcasts reach 1.3 million to 1.5 million listeners through flagship station WFAN (660 AM).

Talking about the success he's had with the Islanders, Palmer said "[We've] had frequent visitors to the winery who have told the staff that they came because they had the wines at an Islanders game."

Certainly, Palmer is trying something different here, and this sort of creativity isn't always prevalent in local wine marketing efforts.

And he knows he's trying something different that other wineries may not see value in.

"I do not expect other wineries to join this effort. That is not the point. If, in the future, maybe, just maybe, if all of the industry starts the think 'outside the box', we can expand wine consumption beyond its current boundaries.

Only time will tell just what impact this "wine and sports" effort will have. But at the very least Palmer Vineyards is trying something new. I'm not sure that it's exactly what the region needs to make it to the next level, but the region definitely needs more new ideas, not just more of the same.

                                        

WTN: Waters Crest Winery 2004 Cabernet Franc Private Reserve (North Fork of Long Island)

Much of home winemaker-turned-pro Jim Waters’ early commercial success was based on his delicious, well-priced whites—his Riesling and Gewurztraminer in particular.   

Many of Waters’ latest red release, however, have matched—and even surpassed—those early offerings. His limited-production, sometimes-hard-to-get reds are worth seeking out in his storefront tasting room tucked in an industrial park. 

Even previous vintages the Waters Crest Winery Cabernet Franc Private Reserve impressed with their rich fruit and cocoa flavors. But, the 2004 release seems to take it to another level.

Waters Crest Winery 2004 Cabernet Franc Private Reserve is a ripe, spicy wine that should develop even further in coming months (and years). 

Made with 100% free-run juice and aged for 14 months in new French oak, the blackberry nose is complex with layers of black pepper, violets, smoked meat and dusty dark cocoa. 

Medium bodied, concentrated and a little meaty, the palate offers loads of black fruit and spice as well. Lightly gripping tannins provide just the right structure.

All in all, I'd say this is Jim's best franc to date.

Grape(s): Cabernet Franc
Producer: Waters Crest Winery
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
Price: $35
Rating: 3 1/2 out of 5 stars (Ratings Guide)

The New LENNDEVOURS Wine-Rating System

I always go back and forth on wine ratings, their usefulness and whether or not I should use them here. I've given it a lot of thought, I've had lengthy email discussions with some of you, and I've talked it over with fellow wine bloggers.

Clearly there's isn't a clear consensus. Some love ratings. Some hate them. And most fall somewhere in between. When I asked my readers, many of them seemed into ratings...but not at the expense of my commentary and tasting notes. So, here's what I've decided to do...

Starting with the next tasting note that I post, I will begin using the 5-star system proposed by Tim over at Winecast a while back. It includes half-stars for more granularity as well. Tim has defined the stars as:

Rating: 1 out of 5 stars Flawed, Not Recommended
Rating: 2 out of 5 stars Average
Rating: 3 out of 5 stars Very good, Recommended
Rating: 4 out of 5 stars Delicious, A Wine of Distinction
Rating: 5 out of 5 stars Outstanding, A Classic Wine

He also defines the ratings as and "overall reflection of a wine’s quality and value." There will be a slight deviation in my rating system on this point. While I will give value some mention in the tasting notes where applicable, I'm not convinced that value has any place in the rating itself. To me, a wine rating is about the wine itself, not the price.

So yes, I'm using a rating system, but it will not replace the notes that I already write. They will remain and maybe even been expanded upon as time goes on. In fact, I'm not going to make the ratings prominent at all. I may even hide them below the "Continue reading..." link so that people don't get caught up in the rating game and ignore the tasting notes themselves.

What Defines a Boutique Winery?

There is a seemingly endless array of adjectives that wineries use to describe--and okay, to market--themselves and their wares. Words like award-winning, artisanal, small-run, limited-production, hand-crafted and boutique come to mind quickly. They all have a real meaning at their core, but because we see them over and over and over again, that meaning, those definitions get watered down.

I think that just about every winery going calls themselves "award winning" and in most cases, there is some evidence of that. Almost any wine can get some sort of award if it's entered into enough competitions. In actuality, "award-winning wine" doesn't me a damn thing.

But I've been thinking lately about the future of Long Island wine. Some conversations that I've had with those in the industry have me thinking about what makes a winery a "boutique winery."

Looking online, boutique is defined as "A small business offering specialized products and services." That's pretty vague and falls short of defining boutique in the winery sense.

Is it just about being a small winery who only makes X number of cases per year?
That certainly seems like it should be part of it. But a "boutique" winery in California might be bigger than the largest winery in places like Virginia or Long Island. Context has to play a role here.

How can we define "specialized" in the wine world?
I'm sure that most wineries think that their wines are special on some level. And even if we can agree that some unique blend is "specialized" if it isn't any good, is the winery a boutique? Which leads us into...

Quality, or at least perceived quality, has to be considered, right?
If I'm heading into a winery tasting room that deems itself "boutique" should I have a certain expectation for how good the wines are going to be?

Is wine pricing a consideration?
Again, I think it is on some level. A small winery who is making cheap wines doesn't sound like a "boutique" to me.

I guess the last question I would ask is, does "boutique winery" even have a definition. Has it been so overused that it has little meaning anymore?

WTN: Shinn Estate Vineyards 2006 Rose (North Fork of Long Island)

"There is no reason to produce wimpy little pink wines with no varietal character."

That's what David Page, co-owner of Shinn Estate Vineyards said when I asked him about his 2006 Rose ($16).

Their rose is different alright--different from every other Long Island rose I've tasted this summer. It's a much richer, bolder wine. The strawberry- and watermelon-scented wine is far from wimpy. It's medium bodied and much rounder and fuller on the palate--but still balanced with gentle acidity and even a little tannic structure.

There is a faint buttery note too, although malolactic fermentation was strictly avoided. For me, it's almost too bold, but it's still plenty fresh, refreshing and versatile.

Page, a professional chef,  recommends it with "everything from lobster rolls on the beach to charred steaks in the backyard." Sounds like the perfect wine for a North Fork summer.

It's worth mentioning that rose isn't an afterthought (or a by product of red wine production) at Shinn. They have a particular lot, of a particular clone of merlot that they devote to their rose every year.

Grape(s): Merlot
Producer: Shinn Estate Vineyards
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
Price: $16

Happy Labor Day from the LENNDEVOURS Team

Just want to wish all of my U.S. readers a happy Labor Day.

It's been a gorgeous long weekend here on Long Island the past few days--clear blue skies, warm-not-hot temperatures and cooling ocean breezes.

Yesterday we took a quick trip out to wine country with Nena's parents. We only made a few stops to accommodate Jax's napping needs, but it was still a great trip.

We started, as we often do, at Roanoke Vineyards. As you can see in this picture, visiting the wineries sure has changed.

In addition to my glass of Roanoke Vineyards 2004 Blend One (young, but already showing nice depth and complexity) and Nena's glass of Wolffer Estate 2003 Estate Selection Chardonnay (also very very good) you'll see Jackson's Steelers water bottle, the remnants of his lunch, and a baby toy.

You can also see the woman formerly know in these pages as FMIL (future mother in-law), who is now known as Mia, an Italian derivative of grandma I believe.

Next up was our favorite lunch spot, the Village Cheese Shop in Mattituck. We picked up an assortment of cheese, a loaf of whole wheat bread, some lomo (my new addiction) and crackers. We headed to the always-beautiful patio at Raphael to enjoy our lunch with a bottle of their 2006 Grand Cru Chardonnay. It's a terrific spot for lunch that overlooks the vineyard. Maybe I'll write a bit about the cheese later this week. One was an extremely funky ripe cheese from Mecox Dairy in the Hamptons. I was the only one that liked it, I think.

Vineyard Visuals: Wolffer Estate Through the Growing Season (September 1)

We continue keeping an eye on Wolffer Estate Vineyards with Ellen Watson, our resident photographer. As you can see, they've added netting to keep birds from eating the sweetening grapes. Does it work? Sometimes...and it's better than nothing I guess.

This picture was taken on September 1 at around 7:00 a.m. and has been added to the Flickr slideshow.

 

WTN: Vineyard 48 2005 Vignetta (North Fork of Long Island)

Despite some inconsistency, Vineyard 48 just might be a winery on the rise. In general, I've found their white wines to be their best, particularly the sauvignon blanc and riesling, which are better and more affordable than many local offerings.

But, I've found their reds much more inconsistent and disappointing. A nice cabernet franc here. A soft, but integrated meritage there. And some others with too-agressive and coarse tannins.

2005, a soon-to-be-classic vintage for Long Island, seems to have afforded winemaker Matthew Berenz, formerly of Pindar, a chance to work with super-ripe fruit. As a result, he's made the neophyte winery's best reds yet.

The Vineyard 48 2005 Vignetta ($32)  is a meritage-style blend made with 44% cabernet franc, 32% merlot and 24% cabernet sauvignon and is a lightly opaque, medium crimson in the glass.

The nose is an alluring melange of red cherries, raspberries, fresh sage and muddled mint leaves. Medium weight on the palate, there is a nice integration of ripe fruit, oak influence and tannins.

Cherry is the predominant fruit flavor here, with herbs, a little earthiness, black pepper and a faint mint finish that lingers just a bit. This is by far the most ready to drink today of the current red releases.

Overpriced? Maybe a little, admittedly.

Grape(s): Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon
Producer: Vineyard 48
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
Price: $32 at the tasting room