The "Perfect Thanksgiving Wine" Myth

Thanksgiving wine columns. Editors demand them. Writers write them. Some wayward readers even clamor for them. Me? I hate them.

Well, hate is a strong word. Too strong probably.

What I do hate is seeing people so stressed out over wine pairing — Thanksgiving or not — that they rely on the words of a stranger just because they are printed on paper. It's not worth worrying about, people.

Wine "experts" and sommeliers don't want you to think so, but wine pairing is often much more about avoiding bad pairings than it is finding the singular "perfect" one.

Are there classic pairings that are delicious? Absolutely, but they aren't hard and fast rules. Take the "perfect" match of foie gras and Sauternes. It's good and it's absolutely a classic, but if foie gras is being served in the middle of a meal, I know that I don’t want to drink a sweet wine with it. I prefer sparkling wine that can cut through the richness of the fattened duck's liver and whet my appetite for the rest of the meal.

I have a wine-loving friend who swears that pinot noir is the "perfect" wine to complement duck. I prefer local merlot or even cabernet franc. He's not wrong and neither am I. Why do people think that there are so many rules with this stuff?

Where am I going with all of this? It's simple: drink what you like… even if wine writers don't suggest it. Then again, if you read enough Thanksgiving wine columns, you're sure to find someone willing to say that most any wine from any region is "great with Turkey."

Remember, turkey is one of the most neutral foods in the world. Other than a big, hulking red with high tannins, I think most anything will work.

The myth of the "perfect Thanksgiving wine" is just that, a myth. Look at what you're eating on Thanksgiving day. In addition to that near-bland turkey, you have highly spiced stuffing (that can include oysters, chestnuts or sausage), rich gravy, green bean and/or sweet potato casserole, mashed potatoes… I could go on, but you get the point. With all that variety of flavors and textures, there isn't any single wine that is going to make all of these taste better. No, not riesling. No, not pinot noir. No, not merlot.

So why not open a few bottles that you know you enjoy and try them all?

That's what I'm going to do this year. I'm going to open wines made with some of my favorite grapes — riesling, cabernet franc and merlot. And I'm probably going to open some rose as well, just because it's can be so darn versatile (and is always a hit with my family).

If you hate riesling, don't drink it. Open gewürztraminer or pinot gris instead. Don't think much of merlot? Okay, try pinot noir or zinfandel.

Do you know what you should drink this year on Thanksgiving? Local wines. The holiday is about giving thanks and I'm thankful to have such a dynamic region right in my own backyard. If you are too, support them.

In coming days, as I start pulling wines from my cellar, I'll let you know exactly what I'm going to open... not because I think you should drink what I'm drinking. Nah, I just want you to see the variety of wines I'm going to open. You should do the same. Really.

I'll also be posting some Thanksgiving recipes from some of Long Island's most accomplished chefs... with the wines that they recommend. I'll, of course, be offering alternative pairings too... because there just isn't a "perfect" pairing for anything.

Comments

[ryan]

Great post! Thanks giving dinner has too many flavors to figure out how to pair any wine with the whole thing!

[Katie]

Glad to see someone besides ME has had it with the obligatory pre-Thanksgiving wine post! Nice work Lenn!

[Andy]

Wow. That was very well said. We're planning on opening a magnum of Hermann Wiemer riesling that we picked up on our trip, a bottle of Shinn Estate Merlot and a Bedell Taste Red.

[Dirty]

Lenn-

On the subject of pairing- "drink what you like" is of course the rule, but often people stick with what they "like" because they are afraid to try something new, or to take the suggestion of someone else.

People may know what they like, but they often don't know what they love until they start trying all sorts of stuff.

I'm with you, crack open a couple of bottles on the table, and let everyone try everything.

[Arthur]

Hi Lenn

I second Dirty's points.

As for "rules": just as there are reasons why some wines and foods clash, there are reasons ("rules") that will result in a synergy of wine and food that offers more than the sum of the two alone.

I realize that the vast majority of wine consumers just treat wine as an embellishment to a social experience without really thinking about the elements of the wine they pour.

However, a modicum of pause and analysis (as in articulating to oneself the character) of wine, food and the interaction of the two can give any individual a compass and confidence to navigate and enrich their culinary experience.

I encourage people to think about flavors and aromas, structure and body: acidity/sweetness/tannin character and textures of both wine and food and to observe how those interact – in complementary or contradictory ways.

What results is the ability to articulate the nature of the wine and the food and a set of “rules” that may reflect or be rooted in personal preferences.

On your final notion: would you be interested in writing about how each of those wines interacts with your Thanksgiving dishes? I have some other bloggers interested in this type of writing and this holiday may be just the time to kick off the series.

[Jason Feulner]

Wine is just fine with Thanksgiving dinner, but the hodgepodge of flavors and the heaviness of the meal in general makes me hanker for a good brew to wash it down. A Sam's Winter Lager is always a great choice, it seems, but of course many beers would do.

And then you can pound PBR's with your uncle and cousins until hilarity ensues.

As for what I've had success with in terms of wine, a good pinot noir seems to play with the spices, enhance any fruit or vegetable flavors, and smoothly wraps around the turkey just fine. It doesn't seem like it would work, but I've had success with this choice so far.

[Dirty]

Jason-

Don't knock PBR, it won the Blue Ribbon!

[Jesse Porter]

Lenn, you couldn't be more wrong. Obviously the only wine that can possibly pair with all of the myriad flavors on the Thanksgiving table is Beaujolais. The French invented this delightful wine for our annual holiday, and we owe them the "thanks" enough to drink it.

The Young Winos just ran our annual Beaujolais tasting, although we adopted a strict "say non to Nouveau" policy this time. The round-up is here:

http://youngwinosofla.com/?p=635

Remember: do your patriotic duty and "go Bo" for the holidays.

[Jason Feulner]

Oh, I'm not knocking PBR at all...it has its uses and has been very good to me.

[John Witherspoon]

Hey Lenn
Great post! I may have to steal your comment "Wine "experts" and sommeliers don't want you to think so, but wine pairing is often much more about avoiding bad pairings than it is finding the singular "perfect" one." for the forward of my book. haha! :)

I usually don't do a Thanksgiving post, because I do follow the train of thought that you have outlayed here. I will this year however be writing a post on what to pair with Tofurkey. :)

Cheers
John

[Foley]

Lenn... I'm only in 2 wine clubs - Channing Daughters on the South Fork and Navarro from Mendocino CA.
Just last week I received my bi-annual (as in twice a year) shipment of wine and they sent me the perfect set of wines for a thanksgiving table:
2006 Navarro Brut
2007 Chardonnay Table Wine
2007 Sauvignon Blanc Mendocino
2007 Gewürztraminer Estate Bottled
2007 Pinot Gris Anderson Valley
2006 Pinot Noir Methode a l'Anciene
2006 Zinfandel Mendocino

Talk about variety and versatility. A little of everything for everybody.

PS: Don't let that "Table Wine" label on the Chard fool you. I buy cases of it every year. With my wine club discount, the bottles come in around $9 and they blow away most other chards in the $20 - $30 range.
You can't get Navarro if you aren't a wine club member (no distribution) but they are well worth joining. Every bottle I open I am more and more impressed with their balance and food friendly composure.

Anyway... have a great Thanksgiving. And whatever you choose to open, may it be as great as the food and family that you have it with!

Cheers!