New York Cork Report

In Memorium: Bob Palmer, Owner, Palmer Vineyard

I just heard some more bad news for the Long Island wine community. Bob Palmer, owner of Palmer Vineyards and president of the Long Island Wine Council passed away last night in Huntington Hospital.

I don't have any details yet, but will add them to this post as I learn about them.

Another sad time for a wine community that is still mourning the loss of another prominent winery owner.

PALATE Promises to be a Winter Warmer

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

I grew up in Corning, NY, on the southern edge of the Finger Lakes. It has always been a great small city with a tremendous amount of beauty and culture. Every year, throngs of tourists stroll through the world-famous glass museum, visit the quaint shops on Market Street, and enjoy various outdoor music and art festivals.

Of course, that all takes place in the spring and summer. Recently, I was surprised to see an announcement that Finger Lakes Wine Country and Corning's Gaffer District were hosting a week-long wine event called PALATE from February 16 through the 22.

As far as I know, nothing ever goes in Corning in the winter! (Well, I do remember going to high school and shoveling the driveway...).

I caught up with Finger Lakes Wine Country president Morgen McLaughlin and asked her about the thinking behind a week-long winter event. "We are trying to increase off-season visitation. PALATE is in the spirit of the Mustard Festival in Napa, which is actually two-months long."

The name PALATE refers to the genres of wine, food, and art, all three of which will be incorporated into the 2009 celebration as well as the annual tradition that McLaughlin and her fellow planners hope to establish. The itinerary on the website is still under construction, but the week will include barrel tastings from several Finger Lakes wineries, food and wine tastings at Market Street restaurants, wine presentations by local experts and enthusiasts, a live music crawl, and even a screening of Merlove, an off-beat documentary for wine lovers.

McLaughlin expects at least 300-400 attendees for PALATE, although the focus this year is not on numbers and broad marketing but on creating an event that can build upon itself year after year. She has high hopes for the future of off-season wine festivals in the Finger Lakes.

I will be attending at least some portion of Palate with a great deal of enthusiasm as I will get to experience Finger Lakes wine as well as visit my mom and dad: a wonderful combination. Warm weather or cold, Corning is always a delight to visit any time of year.

Update on My 2008 White

As you may remember, I'm making 20 or so cases of chardonnay-viognier at Sannino Bella Vita Vineyard this year. A couple weeks ago, I went out to the winemaking center to taste its progress, help rack the wine and talk with owners Lisa and Anthony Sannino.

This picture is looking down into the tank after we pumped the wine out to clean out the lees and tartrate crystals. It took quite a bit of scrubbing to get the tank completely clean, a not-so-subtle reminder that winemaking is 80% cleaning.

The final blend is 60% viognier and 40% chardonnay (both lots of fruit sourced from Martha Clara Vineyards), all fermented in stainless steel without any malo-lactic fermentation. It it's youth, the wine is showing some nice citrus (grapefruit, lemon rind) flavors with pear and apple in the background. We might make a slight adjustment to the acidity to make it a bit brighter, but I'm very pleased with the progress so far.

We'll probably be bottling in about 6 weeks.

Comtesse Therese 2005 Hungarian Oak Merlot

I know that the oak debate, among winemakers and wine geeks, usually centers American vs. French oak, with everyone arguing passionately in favor or their preferred barrel. But, as much as I tend to prefer the more expensive French cooperage, I really enjoy what a third type of oak, Hungarian oak, brings to the table as well.

That spice, and more understated raw oak flavors are on display in Comtesse Therese 2005 Hungarian Oak Merlot ($18), an extremely approachable, enjoyable red.

The nose is playful and spicy, blending bright red berries -- cherries and raspberries -- with violets, black pepper and subtle brown spices.

The berry flavors are a bit darker on the juicy palate, with blackberry joining the party. That Hungarian oak brings layers of black pepper and spice, and also imparts hints of toasty oak and vanilla. There is plenty of fruit here to balance the oak.

The tannins are super-ripe tannins and just a little grippy. A bit more grip would be nice, but for drinking today and over the next couple of years, there's enough.

At $18, this one is well priced too.

Grape(s): 100% merlot
Producer: Comtesse Therese
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
Price: $18
Rating: (3 out of 5 | Recommended) 
(Ratings Guide)

Onabay Vineyards 2006 "Unwooded" Chardonnay

Onabay Vineyards is a new North Fork producer, but there is plenty of history, and talent, behind their wines. Their vineyard is 18 years old and veteran vineyard manager Steve Mudd watches over the vines while Bruce Schneider of Schneider Vineyards makes the wines. Beyond that, Onabay Vineyards, which was named as such because the vineyard is, well, on a bay, is a family affair.

The Anderson family owns the 180-acre farm that houses the vineyard and has its members participate in every piece of the operation. Francesca Anderson, a renowned botanical artist, created the drawings of herons that appear on the front labels. Her daughter, Mia C. Anderson, a published poet, penned the poems that are found on the back labels. Her other daughter, Chiara Anderson Edmands, oversees the winery’s marketing and promotional efforts.

Onabay Vineyards’ 2006 “Unwooded” Chardonnay ($22) is a wine intended to highlight chardonnay’s true self— rather than oak or the winemaker's talent. To that end, this wine is fermented entirely in stainless steel and malo-lactic fermentation was strictly avoided.

Extremely pale yellow with a greenish tint, the nose is light, even austere, with citrus-lemon aromas, faint apples and a distinct minerality vaguely reminiscent of the sea.

That mineral component is even more intense on a medium-bodied palate and is joined by lemon zest and green apple flavors. There is just enough acid here and the finish is lengthy with minerality that just goes on and on. It's vaguely Chablis-like in some ways. Unfortunately, the mid-palate is a little neutral and watery.

If I ate oysters, I'd like to give this wine another try with them.

Producer: Onabay Vineyards
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
ABV: 12.5%
Price: $22
Rating:   (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)

(Ratings Guide)

Atwater Estate Vineyards 2007 Vidal Blanc

Today's review is going to be a lot like its subject -- easy going.

Vidal blanc, a French hybrid grape, is a grape that doesn't get enough respect (a problem many hybrids face) but it does particularly well in the cool climate of the Finger Lakes where it's winter hardiness makes it a somewhat safer choice than vinifera varieties. And, with flavors that are a bit riesling like, it fits right in with the aromatic whites that make the region so exciting.

And this is one of the best Vidals I've had, and certainly the best in recent memory.

Pale golden yellow in color, the nose features a burst of fresh pear and apple with lemon zest and subtle peach notes. The palate is straight forward with those same pear, apple and lemon zest flavors. Instead of peach, there are light hints dried apricot. There is a light sweetness but racy, electric acidity more than balances it. The finish is surprisingly long with more lemon zest and white flowers.

It's simple, but delicious and extremely refreshing.

Grape(s): 100% Vidal blanc
Producer: Atwater Estate Vineyards
AVA: Finger Lakes
Price: $14
Rating: (3 out of 5 | Recommended) 
(Ratings Guide)

Quick Q&A with Fred Merwarth, Winemaker, Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard

One of the very first Finger Lakes wines that I remember tasting was a riesling from Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard (I can't remember the vintage). I was still fairly new to wine, but enjoyed German rieslings even then, and I remember being surprised at how lively and delicious the Wiemer was. Unfortunately, Wiemer wines aren't widely available to me down here on Long Island, so I don't drink them as often as I'd like, but they are definitely worth seeking out.

For today's Q&A, we pose our questions to Fred Merwarth, long-time winemaker at Wiemer.

What (and where) was the first bottle of wine you remember drinking?
This is actually ironic. My first official encounter drinking wine was when I got put in charge of organizing the wine selection for a Christmas dinner my junior year at Cornell. The dinner was a formal gathering of fellow cross country runners who were not really too concerned with the quality or style of the wine. However, I went to Northside Wine and Spirits in Ithaca to help me accumulate a few wines that might elevate our palates. The final selection on the table consisted of only Finger Lake Rieslings and Pinot Noirs. The first bottle was either a semi-dry or dry riesling from Hermann J. Wiemer.

What event/bottle/etc made you decide that you wanted to be in the wine industry?
I spent a semester studying at the University of Freiburg, Germany. Studying, running and living within a very interesting wine region offered enough inspiration, however it was a trip to Colmar in Alsace that really stunned me. We spent an afternoon at a very small estate in a small town outside of Colmar called Eguishiem. The visit included a very detailed tour with the winemaker, a tasting with the winemaker and his grandmother, and concluded with a simple yet exquisite meal prepared by his grandmother. The wines were tremendous, but it was the history, melding of tradition and contemporary philosophy to wine that really stuck with me. After this experience, I knew exactly what I wanted to do.

Which of your current wines is your favorite and why?
2007 Reserve Cabernet Franc and our HJW Vineyard specific Dry Riesling 2007. To me, these wines offer a wonderful opportunity to taste a very specific location, vineyard and vintage.

What has surprised you most about being a member of the Finger Lakes wine community?
The differences in philosophy when it comes to winemaking, vineyard management and marketing.

Other than your own wines, what wine/beer/liquor most often fills your glass?
German Rieslings or a weighty dunkel weizen beer

Is there a 'classic' wine or wine and food pairing that you just can't make yourself enjoy?
Over-extracted, high-alcohol cabernet sauvignon from Old World and New World producers.

Wine enjoyment is about more than just the wine itself. Describe the combination of wine, locations, food, company, etc. that would make (or has made) for the ultimate wine-drinking experience.
I would image that most wineries have moments during a vintage where it is late on the press pad, people are tired, cold and wet from cleaning, yet the juice in the tanks is just great. At this moment when you can take a step back, take a breath, grab a bite to eat, taste something great, reflect on the day or week or month, this is the romance of wine. This experience will always be the ultimate wine experience. 

Winter Cold Snap Has Finger Lakes and Hudson Valley Vintners Nervous

 

This week's weather forecast for upstate New York has many in the Finger Lakes and Hudson Valley wine industries nervous. If the forecast is accurate, temperatures will be dipping down below zero (as low as -10 F) which could be devastating for vineyards.

If the mercury does dip below zero, it will be the coldest weather the region has had in five years. And five years ago, several vineyards had to deal with winter kill, including John Zuccarino of Silver Springs Winery who told me in an email that "This could be a replay of when I lost 10,000 vines."

The snow that is already on the ground in the region is one cause for hope -- it provides a certain amount of insulation.

Evan will be writing a follow-up story on this after the weather has moved through. Keep an eye out for it and let's hope the vines make it.

Bedell Cellars 2006 Reserve Merlot

2006 was a relatively cool year on the North Fork, but the vineyard management and winemaking teams at Bedell Cellars were able to coax impressive amounts of ripeness out of the grapes that went into Bedell Cellars 2006 Reserve Merlot ($48).

The nose offers intense red cherry and plum aromas with quite a bit of toasty oak and vanilla. After a few hours of air time, light hints of spring herbs emerge, but are still dominated by red fruit and oak.

Medium bodied and mouth filling in the flavor department, the palate shows red raspberry and red cherry candy flavors, with lots of oak and vanilla. The tannins are ripe and well integrated, but don't provide enough structure to make this a no-brainer for long-term aging.

It's styled similarly to the 2005, except a bit more one dimensional and not quite as lush. Lovers of West Coast reds might enjoy this one a bit more than Long Island or Bordeaux lovers. 

Producer: Bedell Cellars
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
ABV: 13%
Price: $48
Rating:   (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)

(Ratings Guide)

Putting It All On the Table: The Future of American Wine

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Correspondent

Alder Yarrow of the Vinography blog wrote a great post about wine in America last week and I wanted to build on what he very effectively wrote.

First, while it might take years of effort, the most effective way to erode the stigma of pretension that wine endures is to get it on the dinner table in more families, more often.

One big step would be to lower the legal drinking age to 18. How is this related? This country has strange obsessions with morality, even though most efforts tend to have the opposite of the desired effect (for example, reference the recent news that kids who make abstinence pledges have just as much pre-marital sex, only with less protection than their peers). The idea that alcohol is taboo leads to silly efforts to keep drinks out of the hands of young adults completely, and they tend to respond by seeking out the cheap, easy-to-chug options. Lowering the drinking age is the first step in encouraging responsible consumption and taking the forbidden fruit aspect away from alcohol.

When getting drunk on Natty Ice goes from an alluring weekend idea for some teenagers to just plain stupidity, we'll be moving in the right direction. But there's still this steep hurdle to climb when it comes to wine's perception.

My friends in Europe grew up with plenty of wine in the house, and they tell me that's largely because wine regions are so close. Maybe their family is in the industry, or they know someone who is, or they've simply traveled to their local wine country to check it out. And what they find is that pretension is not found in the dirt under the fingernails of winemakers. It's not found in the vineyard staff, pouring their souls into their beloved varietals. Pretension most often comes from the collectors who want you to know that they have a case of '82 Latour, and if you don't know what that is, well, that's because you're an unsophisticated idiot.

Of course, those people are the idiots, and the good news is that the vast majority of wine drinkers are nothing like that. The problem in the United States is that most people don't live within driving distance of a wine producing region (though that's certainly changing). But for those of us in NY state, we have the advantage of being able to meet the men and women making these lovely wines. Sure, the limo bus is a fun way to check out the scene -- I've certainly done it -- but wouldn't it be nice if more families took the tours that wineries offer in the Finger Lakes, in the Hudson Valley, on the Niagara Escarpment and on Long Island? And wouldn't it be helpful if the wineries that don't offer tours opened their production facility doors and let families in?

My kids are going to grow up knowing the smell of a fermenting batch of wine. They're going to know that wine is not for the high-society types alone, And they're going to know that their mom and dad treasure their '06 Ravines, or their Roman Roth merlots, or their '05 Loire Valley reds -- even though they bought the bottles for less than $15.

Bouke 2007 Red

If you read about wine online much, you've no doubt heard of one of Long Island's newest wine producers, Bouke Wines. Pronounced like "bouquet," Bouke is the brainchild of Lisa Donneson and the wines are made by industry veteran Gilles Martin. Lisa has done a great job, better than most winery owners in New York, of engaging with the blogosphere to get her wines and brand out in front of bloggers and those who read blogs.

Her wines are well priced (this red is the most expensive at $21) and I really appreciate her dedication to creating affordable, but still delicious wines. That kind of thinking is too rare in a region where prices keep escalating, sometimes in ridiculous ways.

This wine, Bouke's 2007 Red ($21), is made from grapes grown in vineyards scattered throughout the North Fork. The specific blend is 35% merlot, 25% cabernet franc, 20% cabernet sauvignon, 15% syrah and 5% petit verdot.

The hot, dry 2007 vintage, along with that petit verdot, gives this wine a rich violet-garnet color. The nose is rich and dark as well with a burst of black cherry and blueberry fruit aromas and brown spice. Those aromas are layered with less obvious notes of vanilla and oak. The combination of blueberry, vanilla and spice is actually a bit reminiscent of blueberry pie.

Take that blueberry pie and sprinkle a little fresh-cracked pepper over it and you have the main flavor profile here. There are also hints of cherries, a minerally-graphite note, and earthy dried leaves on the an okay finish that is a little abrupt. Medium-full bodied throughout, without any of that 'hollowness' that some Long Island reds present on the mid-palate, the tannins are medium strength and a bit angular right now. I think this wine needs a little more time to smooth out, but it's tasting pretty well right now too.

Grape(s): 35% merlot, 25% cabernet franc, 20% cabernet sauvignon, 15% syrah and 5% petit verdot
Producer: Bouke Wines
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
Price: $21
Rating: (3 out of 5 | Recommended) 
(Ratings Guide)

Congresswoman Louise M. Slaughter's Letter to Governor Paterson

Late this morning, I received a press release about a letter that Congresswoman Louise M. Slaughter (D-NY-28) sent to New York Governor David Paterson about his proposed elimination of funding for the New York Wine & Grape Foundation (NYWGF).

With all that has been said here this week on the issue of the NYWGF, budgets, etc. I thought you'd enjoy reading it. As you can see, this letter says many of the same things that recent media coverage does, except I guess we expect the kind of hyperbole that I've bolded from politicians. We should expect more from journalists I think.

Dear Governor Paterson:

I urge you to maintain level funding for the New York Wine & Grape Foundation (NYWGF) in the Fiscal Year 2009-2010 budget proposal.

I am greatly troubled by the decision to eliminate funding for the NYWGF in the Fiscal Year 2009-2010 budget proposal. Through my efforts in the State Legislature, New York created NYWGF in 1985 as a public-private partnership to enhance this vital industry through research and coordinated promotion and marketing efforts. The NYWGF's mission is to advance the New York wine grape and wine industry as a world leader in quality, productivity, and social responsibility.

The NYWGF's partnership with the state has taken this industry from economic crisis to being among the fastest growing areas in the agriculture and tourism sectors. As mentioned in Fred LeBrun's column "Squeeze Threatens State Wine Industry" in the January 7, 2009 publication of the Albany Times Union, almost 200 wineries have formed and prospered across the state since the Foundation's creation. Moreover, the $3 million allocated in the FY2008-2009 budget for the Foundation returns $3.4 billion to our state economy, and the state's support for the wine and grape industry returns over $1,000 for every dollar invested. In my district, wineries have flourished across Erie, Orleans, Monroe and Niagara counties with the Foundation's support. It is clear that this small investment in our wine and grape industry helps stimulate this essential sector of our agricultural economy in an economically depressed area.

The proposal to eliminate funding for the NYWGF will result in the dissolution of the organization and its support of the New York grape and wine industry, and will cause irreparable damage to one of our strongest agricultural and tourism sectors. Given the dire outlook on the state's economy, I understand the difficult choices you must make for our budget. However, this proposal would be the first time since its creation that the foundation received no state support and would only serve to damage one of our state's true success stories.

I strongly urge you to continue the actions of past governors and fund the NYWGF. Failure to do so will result in extreme hardship for this vital sector of our state's agriculture and tourism industries.

Sincerely,

Louise M. Slaughter Member of Congress

Billsboro Winery 2006 Cabernet Franc

I've been a little hard on Finger Lakes reds over the years. Okay, at times I've been more than a "little hard" on them, but of late a few have grabbed my attention -- mostly from the hot 2005 vintage.

When I pulled this Billsboro Winery 2006 Cabernet Franc ($18) from my cellar for tasting, I didn't have high hopes. 2006 wasn't a great year for reds in the Finger Lakes and several that I've tasted just weren't very good.

But this wine impressed with nuance, elegance and spiciness.

Co-owner and winemaker Vinny Aliperti, who serves as winemaker at Atwater Estate Vineyards as well, did something that is surprisingly rare in a cooler, less ripe vintage. He didn't over-macerate for deep color extraction or bludgeon this wine with oak. Instead, he crafted a wine that was true to the vintage, but still delicious.

This lighter-styled red pours a medium-light ruby and almost looks like a pinot noir. A few swirls are all it takes to wake up a nose that is earthy and spicy with cinnamon and allspice sprinkled over fresh red cherries, strawberries and a little briar.

Light bodied and extremely smooth, this wine has bright cherry and red raspberry flavors with more of that cinnamon spice and hints of earth. With a little time in the glass, flavors of anise and herbs join the fray. It's a little soft, but not overly so, with enough acidity to work well with food.

Some people probably won't love this wine because they are so used to big, hulking wines that knocks you over the head. Instead, it wraps its lithe arms around you and teases your senses.

Grape(s): 83% cabernet franc, 17% cabernet sauvignon
Producer: Billsboro Winery
AVA: Finger Lakes
Price: $18
Rating: (3 out of 5 | Recommended) 
(Ratings Guide)

Scarola Vineyards 2005 Masseria Merlot

Members of the New York Cork Club will recognize this wine -- it was part of our October shipment -- but for some reason I never got around to publishing a review. That's a shame because this is a very interesting wine that combines value with all the characteristics that make Long Island merlot so unique and delicious.

As I taste more and more 2005 reds, I'm finding them inconsistent. Some really show off the ripeness attained during the hot, dry growing season (before the deluge that is). Some don't. Many were bludgeoned with a lot of oak. Some weren't.

This one, Scarola Vineyards 2005 Masseria Merlot, shows nice ripeness on the nose without being over the top with the oak. Classic Long Island aromas of dried leaves and herbs mingle with nice scents of black raspberry and cherry with just the right vanilla and oak sprinkled in.

Medium-to-full bodied, the wine shows flavors that closely mimic the nose with dark fruit, earthy dried leaves and light vanilla notes. With time in the glass, herb aromas -- thyme and a little mint -- emerge. By day two, they become even more expansive.

This isn't a wine for long-term cellaring -- the tannins are ripe, well-integrated, but not big. I don't think there's enough structure for much 3-5 years.

Perhaps the best thing about the wine? It represents a terrific value at $17. 

Producer: Scarola Vineyards
AVA: Long Island
Price: $17
Rating:  3.5 out of 5 | Very good-to-Delicious)

(About LENNDEVOURS Ratings) 

New on LENNDEVOURS for 2009

Now that we're almost a week into the new year, I thought it a good time to do a little housekeeping, make a couple announcements and talk a bit about some plans I have for 2009.

First, I've added a new page to the blog about the New York Cork Club. Membership is growing and I want to make the club a bit more prominent here on LENNDEVOURS. It's my pet project and it's something I'm pretty excited about each and every month.

You may have already noticed, even though we're only a week in, that wine reviews are appearing a bit more regularly. That's because I've committed to posting at least one New York wine review every day, Monday through Friday. I'm going to try to include Saturdays and Sundays too.

2009 will also bring more non-wine reviews to LENNDEVOURS, including locally produced beers, artisanal food products and restaurants. There was a time in this blog's lifetime when wine wasn't the sole focus. Look for some local beer reviews soon. Maybe I'll even be able to get Donavan to write more here as well. If not, I'll pick up his slack.

I've got a few other ideas and projects underway too, but I don't want to tell you everything. Just keep an eye out for more information on some things I'm pretty excited about.

Natural vs. Synthetic Corks: A Mystery Solved and an Ongoing Debate

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Correspondent
Photo by Morgan Dawson

I nearly sprinted down to my basement -- ahem, cellar -- when Lenn made a bit of a shocking announcement last week: His 2007 Ravines Argetsinger Riesling was closed with a synthetic cork. This is a very highly regarded wine (Lenn included it in his 2008 wines of the year) and it seems destined to improve with time. Wine Spectator gave it 89 points and advised readers to "drink now through 2009;" I found that assessment to be wholly misguided and actually wrote, in silver marker, the words "drink after 2020" on one of the Argetsinger bottles that we're holding. Ambitious, sure, but Finger Lakes Rieslings are building an impressive track record for ageability.

So I was relieved to discover that my Argetsinger Riesling was closed with natural cork. But how did Lenn get synthetic closures?

"Bottling line error," Ravines owner and winemaker Morten Hallgren explained. Hallgren said that after bottling his Keuka Village White with synthetic corks, the line should have shifted immediately to natural corks. Instead, it allowed a small amount of bottles -- "No more than five cases," Hallgren says -- to get the cheaper, synthetic corks. Having placed an early order, Lenn was the not-so-lucky winner of those mistakenly closed bottles.

"We'll absolutely replace the bottles for Lenn and for anyone who wants to hold them," Hallgren says. He recognizes that the vast majority of consumers of Finger Lakes wine drinks it within months, not years, of purchase. But Hallgren hopes that will change: "We believe very strongly in age-worthy wines, and there's none better for the Finger Lakes than Riesling."

Hallgren agrees with the wider consensus that any wine with aging potential needs a natural cork. Some producers, however, are turning more to synthetic corks for cost-saving reasons -- synthetic corks generally cost a fraction of what natural corks cost. And so with Finger Lakes wineries dealing with more competition and a lagging economy, as well as a wine-drinking public that has little interest in aging wine, should synthetic corks be scorned?

For now I'll just say I'm glad that all of my best Finger Lakes bottles -- including the Argetsinger Riesling -- are closed with natural cork.

Why the Pessimism, Howard?

In last weekend's New York Times, columnist Howard Goldberg penned a piece "More Trouble for Vintners" that paints an uneccessarily bleak picture for New York wineries in 2009. In the story, he points to Governor Paterson's proposed budget, the possible elimination of the New York Wine & Grape Foundation (NYWGF), and the closing of both Vintage NY wine shops (which only sold NY wines) as the reasons for "more trouble."

All three could potentially be detrimental to Long Island and other New York wineries, but they are only a part of the story. A small sliver in fact.

The closing of both Vintage NY locations is sad. Despite some inconsistency in wine service, the stores were great ways for Manhattanites to learn about local wines. And, they were relatively easy ways for New York wineries to get their wines into NYC. They will be missed. But will the closing of two wine shops have a significant impact in the grand scheme of Manhattan wine sales or New York wine sales in Manhattan? Some impact, yes. Significant? I think that's open to debate.

It's important to realize that even with the loss of Vintage NY, New York City is far from a lost cause for New York wineries. The wineries that have put the hard work in have gotten themselves on lists at top restaurants and in top shops. And they are doing it on their own -- a model that will likely become more necessary and over the next couple of years. Is self-sufficiency ever a bad thing?

Everyone has an opinion about the NYWGF, but one thing in Howard's column struck me as odd to mention:

"Eliminating the foundation’s financing would darken its Web site, newyorkwines.org..."

I honestly don't know a single person who thinks that site is useful. It's rarely updated, is a design and usability nightmare and isn't nearly as useful as some of the other trail and tourism sites. I know that I personally get frustrated when I try to use the site. To single the loss of that website out as important in the grand scheme of what is going on in the wine industry and the economy strikes me as odd.

We all know that 2009 is going to be tough financially... for almost everyone. But there is reason to be optimistic.

I've heard from several Long Island winery owners that sales have been strong, even from Labor Day (the end of the summer season) through the end of the year. Some are even seeing near-record sales figures. Why? "Staycationers" on Long Island and in the tri-state area are flocking to the East End, a fact that has been supported by conversations I've had with local B&B and hotel owners.

Even those who once complained that Long Island wines are over-priced are coming to realize just how many great wine values there are. Theya re coming to wine country, enjoying the wines and buying the wines like never before.

It is also a mistake to forget about the "drink local" movement and it's strength and importance going forward. Regular people who enjoy wine are really starting to see value in supporting their local wineries. This is a growing group and one that is becoming much more important.

There are, of course, people in the industry who stand to gain by convincing people that the New York wine industry is in serious trouble. I expect a bit more balance from Howard Goldberg and the New York Times, however.

Talking to even a few winery owners reveals a very different story, despite their cautious nature of their optimism.

I guess pessimism sells more papers though, right?

Channing Daughters Winery 2007 Rosso Fresco

Chris Tracy, winemaker at Channing Daughters Winery, thinks of Long Island as a white wine region, which is a unique stance in the industry. It's hard to argue with him when you taste the white wines in Channing Daughters' portfolio though. He creates some unique-to-Long Island blends with Northern Italy as the model and the results are often delicious and always interesting.

His red wines, however, are sometimes a bit less polished.

This wine, Channing Daughters 2007 Rosso Fresco ($18) is a blend of 80% merlot, 14% syrah, 2% blaufrankisch, 2% cabernet franc and 2% dornfelder. It's the second vintage for this wine, which replaced the "Fresh Red" merlot (called Fred by fans). I didn't love the 2006 and I don't love this one either.

The nose is interesting and unqiue with oak aromas mingling with smoke, grilled meat and earthy notes, but there is very little fruit character here at all.

A medium-bodied palate houses flavors of earth, smoke, spice with a little red cherry, but low tannins and acidity leave it a bit soft for my tastes. A bit more acid would really help.

Grape(s): 80% merlot, 14% syrah, 2% blaufrankisch, 2% cabernet franc and 2% dornfelder
Producer: Channing Daughters Winery
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
Price: $18
Rating:    (2 out of 5 | Average) 

(About LENNDEVOURS Ratings)

Quick Q&A with Anthony Nappa, Winemaker, Shinn Estate Vineyards

Anthony Nappa (left), winemaker at Shinn Estate Vineyards, on the 2008 crush pad.

For the first Q&A of 2009, we pose our standard questions to Anthony Nappa, winemaker at Shinn Estate Vineyards in Mattituck, NY. Anthony is still a relative newcomer to the region and is one of the East Coast's youngest winemakers. 

What (and where) was the first bottle of wine you remember drinking?
Outside of Boone’s Farms when I was young, I didn’t drink much wine except on holidays with the family, mostly Italian wine or homebrew. Asti Spumante at Christmas dinner or Thanksgiving is still a favorite.

What event/bottle/etc made you decide that you wanted to be in the wine industry?
My father grew up on a vineyard outside of Avellino, Italy, so I guess it may be in the blood. I have always had a very acute sense of smell and as a child I would always smell everything, in nature or my food before I ate it. A defining moment may have been when I was eighteen backpacking around the world drinking a lot of wine along the way. I found myself in a winery in Tasmania, Australia. Tasting through some wines with the winemaker, whom challenged me to identify specific aromas, I was able to impress him. He pulled out a bottle of port which he had made an addition to at crushing which nobody could ever identify. It took me a minute but I got it, it was molasses.

Which of your current wines is your favorite and why?
Every wine I have made has special significance to me. They are all my children and unique. This is why wine is so interesting to work with. Every wine is like a fingerprint, an individual solution made up of varying quantities of thousands of organic compounds. If you break it down to its individual components, with this many variables, literally no two wines that have ever been made are exactly the same.

Currently I have been specifically impressed with our Malbec at Shinn. Its concentration and complexity along with varietal character have given me the impression that Malbec can be a great wine for Long Island. Growers have said it is difficult to grow here, and winemakers know it’s hard to make, as it tends to go stinky in ferment, but that is all part of the fun. We will be bottling a varietal Malbec at Shinn starting with the 2007 vintage.

What has surprised you most about being a member of the Long Island wine community?
I am surprised by how quickly our local industry has received incredible respect and international acclaim in a very competitive marketplace. I wouldn’t be surprised to see a break in our glass ceiling, an expansion of our industry and even more justly deserved recognition for the Long Island wines, particularly with the release of the great 2007 vintage.

Other than your own wines, what wine/beer/liquor most often fills your glass?
I do drink a lot of beer. Everyone knows it takes a lot of beer to make great wine. For the most part I have given up liquor altogether. I will have the occasional gin and tonic in the summer or a Dark and Stormy when sailing.

Recently, I have been drinking a lot of local wines trying to get a better understanding of the region and terroir. Otherwise I have been on a Viognier and Nebbiolo kick.

Is there a 'classic' wine or wine and food pairing that you just can't make yourself enjoy?
I always enjoy wine for what it is, but the ‘classic’ American grape, zinfandel, I just can’t get my head around.

Wine enjoyment is about more than just the wine itself. Describe the combination of wine, locations, food, company, etc. that would make (or has made) for the ultimate wine-drinking experience.
A bottle of wine is a photograph of a specific time and place, far off, or right in your own back yard. When you open a bottle of wine you travel through history and around the world. With all five senses you can visit a place, Smell its terroir and climate, Taste its moment in time, and Feel its culture, being the style it was made in.

This experience shared with friends or family, at home or abroad, with food or without, is always an ultimate experience.

Dr. Konstantin Frank 2007 Dry Riesling

Of all the Finger Lakes wines that I review every year, those from Dr. Konstantin Frank are among my favorites. Why? Well, for one, the whites are  consistently good, especially the aromatic whit varieties like riesling and Gewürztraminer. For another, these are often the only quality New York wines that my friends and family back in Pittsburgh have any chance of seeing in their local, state-run liquor stores.

Much like the other wine regions of New York, the Finger Lakes enjoyed a long, hot growing season in 2007 and that is apparent in many of the wines I've tasted from the vintage, in both good and bad ways. The good comes through in ripe flavors (in both reds and whites). The bad? Well, some whites have lacked that electric acidity that makes the region's riesling so enchanting.

This Dr. Konstantin Frank 2007 Dry Riesling ($18) almost doesn't seem like it's from 2007. The nose, rather than being overtly fruity, is dominated by summery floral aromas with other scents of lime zest, minerals, ginger and something almost almond-like.

Light bodied, clean and fresh, the palate features fresh lime and mineral flavors with crisp pear in the background. Despite its youth, this wine even shows a bit of that classic petrol leading into a lengthy finish of citrus, apple and minerals. The acidity isn't quite where it might be in cooler years, but there is enough to keep it lively.

This isn't a riesling for everyone. There are plenty of people who prefer more luscious fruit. More pear or even peach. But for me, this is a terrific example of Finger Lakes riesling.

Producer: Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars
AVA: Finger Lakes
Price: $18
Rating:  3.5 out of 5 | Very good-to-Delicious)

(About LENNDEVOURS Ratings) 

News Clips about Christian Wolffer and His Passing

The Wolffer family is expected to give a brief statement today during which we'll hopefully learn about any memorial services here on Long Island.

In the mean time, Christian Wolffer's death has been covered extensively in media outlets throughout the U.S. and beyond and I thought you might appreciate a few links to the stories:

• Vineyard owner Christian Wolffer killed by boat (Newsday)
• Hamptons Wine Mogul Killed (NY Post)
• Models Swim to Try to Save Hamptons Mogul (NY Post)
• German-born US winery owner dies in Brazil in apparent boating accident (LA Times)
• Brazilian model tries to save wine mogul (Daily Telegraph)
• Christian Wolffer, 70 (The Mercury News)
• Brazilian police detain suspect in Wolffer's death (SF Chronicle)
  

This is by no means an exhaustive list. It's just a few that I came across over the weekend.

Dr. Konstantin Frank 2007 Reserve Gewurztraminer

Too often the descriptor "food wine" is used in a negative way, used to describe wines that aren't all that pleasing on their own. This is, of course, preposterous, and is just a way for writers to soften the blow when writing reviews of mediocre wines.

Wine is meant to be enjoyed with food. At least it should be. Saying that a wine needs food, should be a given.

This Dr. Konstantin Frank 2007 Gewuztraminer Reserve ($25) doesn't need food, but it sure does shine with it (or at least it did with the green Thai curry chicken and zucchini I made over the holidays.

At first, the nose is a bit austere, but as it warmed just a bit out of the fridge classic aromas of rose petals reach up out of the glass, along with gingery spice and sweet tropical fruit notes.

While medium-full bodied and decidedly on the off-dry side, this wine is balanced by terrific acidity (that may or may not have been added by the winemaker). The fruit is luscious with grapefruit, pineapple and lychee flavors filling the mouth. The finish is medium-long with a clean, minerally note that that I really enjoyed.

I tend to prefer drier Gewürztraminer, but after a bite of that spicy curry, the residual sugar tamed the flames and, even if it's a bit of a wine pairing cliche, I was reminded why this grape works so well with Thai cuisine.

So yes, this is a "food wine" in my book, but that doesn't mean it's not satisfying on its own.

Producer: Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars
Price: $25
Rating: (3.5 out of 5 | Very good-to-Delicious).

(About LENNDEVOURS Ratings)

Winter in Long Island Wine Country

Wolffer Estate 2005 Caya Cabernet Franc

Wolffer Estate's winemaker, Roman Roth, made some delicious and unique wines to commemorate the winery's 20th anniversary, and this wine the Wolffer Estate 2005 "Caya" Cabernet Franc ($40) is one of them (even if I liked the 04 a bit better). The commemorative wines are all named for horses in the Wolffer Stables and this one bears the name of Caya, a 16- year old Hanoverian Warmblood and a Grand Prix winner.

This blend of 86% cabernet franc and 14% merlot shows ripe, intense blackberry and cassis fruit aromas on the nose, which are accented by vanilla, toasty oak and some dried plum layered beneath.

Though perhaps a little less intense than the nose, the medium-bodied palate presents ripe black fruit flavors -- blackberry and black raspberry -- with a vein of toasty oak running through. There is good structure here with ripe, well-integrated tannins and some acidity (which would make this a good choice with food). There is an earthy, gravelly note that lingers on the long finish.

On day two, a bit of spice started to peek through on both the nose and palate. I think that this wine will improve in bottle for at least 3-5 years.

It doesn't take long to find several different style of cab franc being made on Long Island. This one is true to Wolffer's long-standing style, which is decidedly more Bordeaux than Loire.

Grape(s): 86% cabernet franc, 14% merlot
Producer: Wolffer Estate
AVA: The Hamptons, Long Island
Price: $40
Rating:    (3.5 out of 5 | Very good-to-Delicious)

(About LENNDEVOURS Ratings) 

In Memorium: Christian Wolffer, Owner, Wolffer Estate

Some sad news has hit the Long Island wine community today in the form of a report that Christian Wolffer, entrepreneur and founder/owner of Wolffer Estate has died in a boating accident in Brazil.

I haven't heard any details beyond that yet, but this is obviously a terribly sad day for the Long Island wine community. As Charles Massoud, co-owner of Paumanok Vineyards (who emailed me about Wolffer's passing) said "Christian was one of our early wave wine producers who has committed himself to quality and excellence. And I think he has

accomplished what he set out to do, with Roman's and Richie's help. He will be missed."

As more information becomes available, I'll pass it along. In the meantime, our thoughts and prayers go out to the extended Wolffer family.

Update: Jared over at Vine Views found some local news coverage in Portuguese and here is a (very) rough translation into English via Google