Heron Hill Winery 2005 "Ingle Vineyard" Cabernet Franc

Over the weekend, I tasted a handful of Finger Lakes reds, mostly cabernet franc, and I came away pleasantly surprised by what I tasted.

True, each of the cab francs came from the outlier 2005 growing season, which was hotter and longer than usual, but the quality can't be denied -- even by those of us that wish Finger Lakes wineries would plant more riesling and Gewurzt and less merlot, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc.

Heron Hill Winery is perched on the western shore of Keuka Lake, but the grapes that go into Heron Hill Winery's 2005 "Ingle Vineyard" Cabernet Franc ($25) come from owner John Ingle Jr.'s vineyard on the western slopes of Canandaigua Lake, one lake to the west. That vineyard, planted in 1972 and still maintained by Ingle, provides grapes for an entire vineyard-designated line at Heron Hill.

Tasted over a two-evening period, this cab franc stood out as one of the best.

The nose, which started out showing mostly blackberries and sweet oak, later revealed beautiful floral aromas along with those of chicory and black pepper.

In much the same way, the evolved over time starting with intense blackberry fruit character but soon blending that ripe fruit with black pepper spice, coffee and licorice-anise notes. A wet stone, almost graphite-y vein runs through this wine that you don't always taste in New York cab franc. Supple tannins and just the right acidity bring just the right structure. No where near peaking, holding it for a few years (or decanting it for a few hours) is a good idea.

Producer: Heron Hill Winery
AVA: Finger Lakes
ABV: 12.5%
Price: $25
Rating: (3 out of 5 | Recommended) 
(Ratings Guide)

Comments

[Evan Dawson]

Lenn, my friend, you are going to have a lot of fun tasting the 2007 reds. Just remember one thing: 2007 was better than 2005, and in fact it's unlikely we'll see as good a year for reds in our lifetimes. So you don't have to feel like you're going soft if you find yourself wanting to laud the '07 reds. We'll understand. ;)

[Lenn Thompson]

If the 2005 and 2007 vintages display themselves the way that they seem to be here, I'm expecting more consistent good/great wines from 2007.

In 2005, I've had some great wines from Long Island, but also some major disappointments.

Of course, we had a monsoon hit during harvest season that is probably to blame for a lot of the variation. Most likely the result of harvesting decisions (before the rain, right after the rain or letting it all dry out and risk waiting TOO long).

Any 2007s you've had out of barrel that stand out as can't-miss wines?

[Evan Dawson]

I couldn't believe the length on Red Tierce. Had it two weekends ago. That's a wine with a lot of components, and it was kind of a mess for a while, I'm told. But it's taken a turn into becoming a much more cohesive, layered wine. That's exciting.

Red Newt's 2007's are certainly promising. The Cab Franc is devoid of green notes -- not a plus for me! -- but it comes off as a kind of chocolatey, ripe blackberry. Their Syrah is a new world, peppery, ripe and dark wine -- can't wait to try it in several months. Their viridescens is a little loud with oak at the moment, but certainly well made.

Anthony Road's higher alcohol Lemberger is one to watch, for sure.

Dr. Frank's Cab Franc was pretty tight when I tried it on New Year's Eve; no length, but could've still been young.

That's the report for now. It goes without saying, I hope, that an excellent weather year does not automatically portend the highest quality wines. There's bound to be plenty of plonk. But I am deeply enthused for the release of this vintage.