One of the wineries we were disappointed not to have to visit during our recent trip to Seneca Lake was Fulkerson Winery. They are a large producer in the region, making more than 50,000 cases annually. They are also one of the larger growers in the region and sell a significant amount of fruit and juice to home winemakers.
Their portfolio is large and varied. In addition to the expected varieties (riesling, Gewurztraminer, etc.) they also grow and bottle things like Vincent, Dornfelder, Delaware, Diamond and Noiret.
Some wineries struggled to make balanced, lively riesling from the hot 2007 vintage, and Fulkerson Winery's 2007 Riesling Reserve ($16) shows a bit of that difficulty. The nose is fruity and ripe, with apricot, pear and lime aromas along with a distinct lychee note that makes me wonder if some Traminette or Gewurztraminer wasn't part of the final blend.
The broad, soft, medium-bodied palate is very fruity with peach and pear flavors dominating and citrusy edge. The finish is dry but a bit flat. That clean vein of minerally acidity found in many Finger Lakes rieslings is less prominent here, resulting in a perhaps more approachable wine that is a near-miss for me. I'm left wanting a bit more structure and a little less weight on the palate.
Producer: Fulkerson Winery
AVA: Finger Lakes
ABV: 12%
RS: 0%
Price: $16.50
Rating:
(2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)
Lenn:
I think Sayre Fulkerson is one of the unsung heroes of the Finger Lakes. He's seen the spectacular growth of popularity there. I remember when I first started my winery buying grapes from him and his tasting room looked like a roadside farmers stand. Now he has a very impressive "tasting hal" and makes some great wines there. He's a great member of the NY wine community.
Jonathan Hull
Winemaker
www.applewoodwinery.com
Posted by: Jonathan Hull | March 11, 2009 at 07:08 AM
Lenn,
I hear that when Fulkerson built that white elephant new tasting-room that the tasting-room out did the wines...you would think that farmers for over 200 years they would of been the leader of the pack, but no they follow....built right at the sub-prime top, ouch...good luck to them...once the Fulkerson owners came into taste our wines and were shaking and rude so rude that the wife wrote a very nasty thing on our erasable board...
We wish them well...know the tasting room people they are good people, as for the owners I spit on them...
Cheers !!!
Posted by: Don Giovanni | March 11, 2009 at 10:49 AM