Notes on Ravines and Wolffer at I Drink NY Astor Place Event

By Sasha Smith, New York City Correspondent
Photo by Sasha Smith

A few weeks ago I attended the first annual Winebow "I Drink New York" event at Astor Wines featuring Ravines Wine Cellars, Wolffer Estate Vineyards and Millbrook Vineyards. I focused on Ravines, which I knew little about (aside from the fact that Lenn's a fan) and Wolffer.

A brief dispatch:

A good wine is like a good thriller: it should hold your attention throughout and finish with a surprise. The Ravines Wine Cellars 2007 Dry Riesling fulfilled both criteria. The wine has a mineral and citrus fruit purity that’s really compelling, and instead of falling off a bit on the back palate and the finish (something that I’ve noticed often in lesser-quality New York rieslings), it retains this intensity throughout.

The Ravines Wine Cellars 2006 Keuka Village White, made from Cayuga White and Vignoles, is the best hybrid I’ve ever had. Granted, I don’t drink them very much and even really good hybrid wines leave me a little cold, but this one was simple (in a good way), clean, and refreshing. A picnic wine if there ever were one.

I wasn’t a big fan of the pinot noir. A little too green for my taste, and with none of the silkiness that makes Pinot Noir what it is.

The Ravines Wine Cellars 2006 Cabernet Franc had vibrant red fruit and hit an earthy, mushroomy note that I loved. Winemaker Morten Hallgren told me that they pick cab franc as late as November. Whether or not you like this very cool climate style of wine, you have to respect that kind of patience and fortitude.

Morten and his wife Lisa (pictured here) could not have been kinder, or better ambassadors for their wine.

I also had the opportunity to meet Roman Roth, probably the closest thing Long Island has to a celebrity winemaker. Given his reputation, I was expecting him to be a bit stand-offish, but nothing could have been further from the truth.

We chatted about a sparkling rosé they’ll release in time for the holidays this year and he let me linger over a glass of their Wolffer Estate 2007 Late Harvest Chardonnay. With ripe apricot, peach and honey flavors, the wine has a finish that seems to last forever –- or, as Roman quaintly put it, one would need the neck of a giraffe to fully savor it.

Comments

[Ryan Thompson]

Looking forward to the sparkling rose - here's an article from a boston based online magazine which recommends the Ravines non-sparkling rose:

http://www.shoestringmag.com/eat-drink/la-vie-en-ros%C3%A9-recession-renaissance-pink-wine

Looking forward to trying some of the ones mentioned!

[Thomas Pellechia]

Sasha,

You said:
"...and instead of falling off a bit on the back palate and the finish (something that I’ve noticed often in lesser-quality New York rieslings)."

Can you elaborate? To which lesser quality NY Rieslings do you refer?

[Tom Mansell]

Thomas:

I could be wrong, but it seems like Sasha is referring to "those rieslings of lesser quality than other, better rieslings from NY state", as opposed to "rieslings from NY state, which in general are of lesser quality than those from other places." I don't think it was a dig on NY riesling in general, just the ones with short finishes.

[Thomas Pellechia]

Tom,

I don't read it as a dig on NY Riesling, but I also don't understand what the phrase 'lesser quality' means.

I'm looking for a benchmark, a reference point.

[Lenn Thompson]

Tom,

I think it's a little silly to expect that "a benchmark" be identified in a post that is just a brief recap of the event and the impressions Sasha came away with.

Most people reading this blog probably understand what "lesser quality" means. Don't you think?

[Thomas Pellechia]

Lenn,

If I thought that do you think I'd be 'silly' enough to ask what the phrase means?

When you or anyone else can succinctly and accurately define the word 'quality' as it relates to wine, let me know. But I warn you, I will not participate in THAT discussion. ;)

As for 'lesser,' I always thought that word was quantitative rather than qualitative, but I could be wrong.

[Thomas Pellechia]

Incidentally, even if most people know what the phrase means in this context, I ask the question because I don't know what it means. Is that silly? or unreasonable?

Are we not to ask questions when we need clarification?

[Lenn Thompson]

Thomas: First I should apologize, saying it was "silly" wasn't fair.

In this instance (trying to keep this discussion within context) "quality" is in the eyes of the taster, Sasha.

There may be no topic less objective than wine. I'll give you that and I honestly have no interest in defining quality, but does that mean that we can't reference quality? I don't think so. Do you?

You do have a point on 'lesser'...it is quantitative. Blame the editor for that one ;)

[Thomas Pellechia]

Lenn,

Thanks for seeing half my point--on 'lesser.' But, hey, a writer is a writer is a writer, with apologies to Gertrude Stein.

I don't want to argue 'quality.' Waste of time--been there.

I'll get off the subject now.

[Rick Rainey]

Sasha,
I would suggest retasting the 2007 Pinot when you have a moment. Though it was not for your taste it is a very good example of a cool climate Pinot with all the personality one would find in a quality bourgogne rouge level of pinot from a better vintage.
Your right on with the Keuka white, this has become my Gruner Veltliner replacement around the house.

[Lenn Thompson]

I'll be tasting the 07 pinot for the first time in a few weeks when I'm in the area. Looking forward to it. I really enjoyed the 05, which may have been the best pinot I've tasted from the Finger Lakes.

And I'll be stocking up on Keuka White for the summer.

[Thomas Pellechia]

Lenn,

if you come to the Finger Lakes and don't look me up I will be despondent.