Rooster Hill Vineyards 2007 Estate Cabernet Franc

By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief

Why do I taste wines over the course of at least two days before giving final ratings? Wines like this. That why.

When I first opened and poured this 2007 Estate Cabernet Franc from Rooster Hill Vineyards on the east side of Keuka Lake in the Finger Lakes region, it was dominated by campfire and mesquite aromas and flavors. I didn't like it very much and I was cursing American oak yet again.

I wrote my notes out anyway, and searched for fruit and non-oak attributes, finding some buried behind the bacon.

The next day, this was like a completely different wine. Night and day.

Sure, there was still some smokiness, but instead of dominating, it complemented blackberry, black cherry, brown sugar spice and licorice on the nose, adding a layer of complexity instead of beating the other aromas into submission.

The palate was soft, with plum and black cherry flavors hints of vanilla and smoke and an intense vein of black licorice that runs from start to finish.

The tannins are soft and ripe, bringing just enough structure, and the finish lingers nicely with vanilla spice and more licorice.

Anyone who thinks they can review a wine in 30 seconds just isn't doing the wines or his or her readers justice. Wines like this are why I take my time with wines, trying to understand them a bit more fully before assigning a score or writing a review.

Producer: Rooster Hill Vineyards
AVA: Finger Lakes
ABV: 12.9%
Price: $20*
Cases Produced: 160
Rating:  (3 out of 5 | Recommended)  
(Ratings Guide)

Comments

[Tom Mansell]

This is why I like to enjoy a whole bottle over a night, like a normal person, and observe how it changes.

I am also interested in what you consider the aroma differences between French and American oak.

[Marguerite Barrett]

I do that as well, and often find I enjoy the wine much more the second night.

[Evan Dawson]

Tom -

I'll jump in regarding the oak question (because it might get a post of its own sometime soon). American oak can bring a variety of aromas, but most of the time when I talk about American oak, it's mesquite, charry, cooled campfire. That kind of thing. And from what I have learned in talking to winemakers, those aromas come with higher toast and longer periods of time before the barrels are used; otherwise there are some more exotically sweet components.

French oak, in red wine, is a little less shrill. It can be often be a vanilla smell, but unless the fruit is super weak or the oak is all new, the aromas integrate more easily.

That's just my experience. Lenn and I have spoken often about oak of late. I'm sure he'll have more to add. Choosing oak is not an easy game; obviously French is expensive, and there are many who say that American quality has improved and can offer an excellent alternative. I've had some wonderful wines that come from American oak, French oak, Hungarian oak, and no oak.