By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor
Most of the time, the best Finger Lakes Meritage-style blends are heavy on cabernet franc which, despite some winemakers who feel otherwise, is the Bordeaux red that seems to show the most promise in the region.
As such, I find many of these wines pleasing and enjoyable -- being the cabernet franc fanatic that I am.
Wagner Vineyards 2007 Meritage ($23) is made using 55% cabernet franc, 35% cabernet sauvignon and 10% merlot -- and a bit too much oak for my tastes.
It's a shame too. The nose is lively with inviting red cherry, cranberry and subtle floral qualities that are hidden behind the strong aroma of vanilla extract. There is also a whiff of dustiness that I often associate with Finger Lakes cabernet franc.
The oak on the palate comes across primary as vanilla as well, disrupting a lively palate that shows just-juicy acidity with ripe red berries, hints of spice and chocolate and a medium-long finish.
Producer: Wagner Vineyards
AVA: Finger Lakes
ABV: 12.4%
Cases: 900
Price: $23*
Rating: 85
How unfortunate for the wine to have been burdened with wood. Is the winemaker from California or Australia? Any notes on the source of the wood?
Posted by: Tom | January 12, 2011 at 09:14 PM
Hey Lenn,
Hope things are going well and that you're ready for another couple of Steeler playoff games. Interesting take on the wine, at the early $20's price point a nice, drinkable Cab Franc would have been nice. Say what you will about California wine, but too much oak is way to easy to create when you don't have ripe enough fruit.
Posted by: Mark | January 13, 2011 at 11:48 AM
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B: Right.
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