This is what our editors and contributors were drinking last week...
Evan Dawson: Barboursville Vineyards 2002 Cabernet Franc Reserve (Virginia)
On a blind wine evening that included Barolo, white Rioja, Chablis, Cahors and Bordeaux, this wine snuck in and left a significant impression.
Still youthful and structured at 8+ years old, it was a very pleasant surprise.
Tasted blind, we hung on this one for a while. I settled timidly on cabernet franc and, pressed to identify a region, I said Long Island. That's a compliment.
I expect that 2011 will be the year when I learn much more about Virginia wines. I don't know anything about this producer; I don't whether it's considered among the finer wineries. But there's no doubt that Virginia can make good cab franc.
It's time to discover more of it.
Julia Burke: Umeno Yado Junmai Daiginjyo Sake
As we pored over the list, a couple of guys next to us announced they were treating the bar to one of the higher-end sakes on the list. We tried two other sakes as well that evening and I enjoyed them all, but this one was particularly smooth and an appealing introduction to this fascinating libation.
It tasted like cantaloupe and Rice Krispies. My coworker informed me that these two descriptors were textbook sake flavors; cantaloupe in particular, he explained, is "to sake what 'sour cherry' is to Tuscan wine."
The smoothness of the fruit, however, was really enjoyable, and I found myself digging it immediately. There was nothing stale or cardboardy about the rice aspect, either, just a very elegant sipper and great with octopus pieces.
I'm always up for cool new drinking experiences and this one was serendipitous.
Bryan Calandrelli: Shinn Estate Vineyards 2007 Wild Boar Doe (North Fork of Long Island)
I knew exactly what I was getting to when I uncorked this 2007 Shinn Wild Boar Doe. My palate was thirsty for a big New York red and this bottle didn't let me down.
Full and fleshy, this wine has new world ripeness with old world complexity. Rich tannins compliment its flavors of dark cherry, chocolate, earth and spice and the glass coating 14.6% alcohol is in complete balance.
Tasted blind, my sommelier friend thought it was Bordeaux. Great stuff from one of my favorite New York wineries.
Bryan,
Thanks for tasting this wine blind with your sommelier friend. It is now sold out in the tasting room. We'll be releasing the 2008 soon.
Posted by: David Page | February 15, 2011 at 01:06 PM
Evan,
Barboursville is indeed considered one of the premiere producers in VA. They are also one of the oldest and largest (and well funded... they are owned by an Italian wine company, Zonin maybe?) wineries in the state. I was there at the beginning of harvest this year and tried some interesting, well made wines... highly consistent across the board. Luca Paschina is their winemaker and is a valuable resource to many in the state. If you're looking for some suggestions on places/wines in VA I'd be happy to make some recommendations.
Daniel
Posted by: Daniel Sweeney | February 15, 2011 at 01:37 PM
Daniel -
Ah! This is Luca's wine. I just finished The Wild Vine, and Luca makes an appearance. Nice to make the connection.
I'd love to hear what your top recs are. If you wouldn't mind, shoot me an email: [email protected].
Posted by: Evan Dawson | February 15, 2011 at 01:47 PM
Evan -
although I'm primarily an FLX guy, I have a brother living outside Charlottesville, VA so we've been to some of the wineries near there several times. We've been to Barboursville twice (about 5 - 6 years apart) and honestly, were disappointed both times. Felt the wines were overpriced for what they delivered. Haven't had anything from there with any age on it so maybe that helps. We've been to Horton twice and have liked some of their whites, in particular their viognier, rkatsiteli and late harvest whites. Our last visit to the area was Oct last year and we visited Stone Mountain. Liked almost all of their reds. The winery is part way up into the Blue Ridge Mts and is a challenge to get to. Several miles of twisty, gravel road (and that's after several miles of twisty, paved road). Worth the trip for the wines and if the day is nice, the view from the tasting room deck is great.
Dana
Posted by: Dana Estep | February 16, 2011 at 12:40 PM
Dana -
Any thoughts on Virginia Norton?
Posted by: Evan Dawson | February 16, 2011 at 09:12 PM
The Barboursville Vineyards are run by Zonin. On the grounds is the former home of James Barbour, a former Va. governor, which was designed by Thomas Jefferson. You can visit the ruins as it burnt down in the late 1800's. It's a plesant place to visit. I find Barboursville to be like many Virginia wineries to be largely too pricey for the quality and a dearth of value wines which could open the door to more customers. I have had some decent cab francs from B-ville.
Posted by: Tom | February 17, 2011 at 12:38 AM
Evan -
Too small of a sample to form a valid opinion. I've only had the Horton Norton. Liked it on our first visit to Horton a number of years ago and bought a couple of bottles. Didn't care for it as much on our recent Oct visit and didn't buy any. I don't recall whether Stone Mountain makes a Norton. If they do and we tried it, we didn't like it enough to buy any. Based on my initial experience with it at Horton, it's something I'd keep trying in tasting rooms as it seems to have potential.
To follow-up on Tom's comments, the mansion ruins at Barboursville are interesting to wander around, especially on a nice day.
Dana
Posted by: Dana Estep | February 17, 2011 at 12:29 PM