Heart & Hands Wine Company 2009 Pinot Noir

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Over a relatively short period of time, Heart & Hands Wine Company has almost become synonymous with New York pinot noir. There are other wineries making good versions of course, but on a consistent basis, there isn't a producer I can recommend more for pinot.

Co-owner and winemaker Tom Higgins carefully sources fruit from dependable growers and his passion for the grape manifests itself in meticulous cellar work.

Heart & Hands Wine Company 2009 Pinot Noir ($20) -- which is closed under Vino-Seal by the way -- offers aromas of red cherries and cranberries sprinkled with brown spice, star anise and a bit of black pepper.

Light bodied -- there isn't any syrah in this pinot -- the palate is juicy with red fruit flavors and layers of toasty oak, spice and tea leaf. Fresh acidity and well-incorporate, soft tannins bring structure and lengthen the finish.

Producer: Heart & Hands Wine Company
AVA: Finger Lakes
ABV: 12.6%  
Price: $20

(3.5 out of 5 | Very Good, Recommended to Outstanding and Delicious, Highly Recommended)

(Ratings Guide)

Comments

[Joeshico]

Still not sold on many of the single grape red wines from the Finger Lakes, with exception to the Cab Francs, but I have tasted the Heart & Hand Pinot Noir and have found it very comparable to Burgundy and many of the well published Pinot's of Oregon. But then again, I am a bit biased.

[Veronique Deblois]

Can't agree with you more Lenn. Delicious Pinot.

[daniel sweeney]

After reading many praises for Tom Higgins wine I was excited to try them. After tasting through the wines at H&H I was a bit let down. I found them much more comparable to pinots from Oregon or California (sweet oak, lush fruit) in style than Burgundy (wines of structure). It left me wondering if the people who compare these wines to those from the Cote d'Or have much experience with Burgundy. I like the fact that he's focused with his lineup and (seemingly) on quality, but for me the jury's still out.

[Lenn Thompson]

Daniel: I think even Tom himself would dispute the "Burgundy" comparison. To me, he seems to be working to identify what "Finger Lakes" pinot noir can and should be. I dig that.

I don't find his wines to be filled with "lush fruit" however.

[daniel sweeney]

While I applaud his effort to make a "Finger Lakes" pinot noir and explore what that means, I can't help but feel like he's taking two steps forward (specializing in his offerings, quality in mind) and one step back (apparent oak usage that has nothing to do with "Finger Lakes" so much as a familiar sweet vanilla toasty profile associated with so many high end new-world pinots). No doubt the region needs more producers pushing for quality and I'm thankful that he's doing just that, but with all due respect to me he's exploring the forests of France as much as he is the terroir of the Finger Lakes. All of that said, the wines are young and we won't really know what's happening until the vineyards and bottles mature.

[Tom Higgins]

Joe & Veronique -

We appreciate your enthusiasm for our wines.

Lenn -

Thanks for your post. We appreciate the support. I would agree with your Burgundy comparison comment.

Daniel -

I'm sorry our wines let you down. We work tirelessly to make our wines to the highest standards and will continue to strive to make the best possible product. While many people like our wines, we accept that there are some people that do not understand them.

Because of our commitment to our wines, they become like our children. Like any good parent, we hope that they go out into the world and will be a part of a special memory for our customers. In fact, last night a customer emailed me to share a story that their wife is returning from work in Africa and her only request was, "to have a bottle of Polarity chilled." At that moment, we were certainly "proud parents."

Cheers,
Tom

[Brian]

I'm a fan of their Pinot Noir (you introduced me to Heart & Hands Wine Company during the TasteLive Finger Lakes Pinot Noir event), and at $20, that's a flat out steal. I had their 2008 then and remember writing "promising" next to the wine on my notes. Can't wait to revisit. Cheers!

[Steve]

I like just about everything I have tried from this vineyard.

I don't think comparisons to any other regions are fair to either the Finger Lakes or those regions. Maybe the inspiration comes from other places to make something new and different. I find their Pinot Noirs very pleasant and I look forward to seeing the progression from year to year. i also find Heart and Hands employees refreshing in how inviting they are and I am definitely rooting for them.