New York Cork Report

What We Drank (September 13, 2011)

Today marks the triumphant return of "What We Drank" after a brief late-summer hiatus.

As always, here's what our editors and contributors have been drinking.

Mark Grimaldi: Ameztoi "Rubentis" Txakolina 2010

Yes, rosé again.  But not just any rosé. 

Txakolina is always, if you can find it, the quintessential summer quaffer. Now make it a rosé and you've damn near found the key to life.

A close friend from the city brought this out to our house one weekend this spring.

That Monday after, I asked a friend who owns a local wine shop if he would order it for me, and after we all geeked out about it, he ended up getting three cases that we split among 4 of us. It's comprised of 50% Hondarribi Beltza and 50% Hondarribi Zuri from the Getaria region of Basque in Spain.

Simply put, this is hands down the best rosé I have ever had. I was floored. A beautiful light strawberry color, with a nose of peaches, raspberries and citrus.

It's perfectly fizzy, with stone fruits, sweet but tart fruit on the mid palate reminiscent of a fresh glass of cranberry juice, finished with a beam of tart, mouth-watering acid and the perfect effervescence of a club soda with tiny, palate-coating bubbles.

At an alcohol of 10.5%,  we polished this bottle off so fast that it was dangerous. Be careful with this one, it's hard to have just one. 

 

Rochelle Bilow: Sheldrake Point Vineyards 2010 Gewurztraminer

Because I am heavily involved with the release of the 2010 vintage of Finger Lakes Rieslings this month,
it seems like they’re all I’m drinking. But that’s not so! I proved it on Sunday with Stu as we took a rare
day of all play and no work in the Finger Lakes.

We set up a picnic on the lawn at Sheldrake Point on Cayuga Lake and opened a bottle of their 2010
Gewurztraminer. It has a tremendous floral and spice nose that follows through on the palate. It leans
much more toward rose and dried lavender than the often-found tropical fruits, though there was a fair
amount of lychee that cropped up after a few minutes in the glass. I find with all Gewurztraminer, but this
one especially, that spending some time with the aroma is as fun as drinking it.

I loved this wine as an early fall choice – it feels more substantial and hefty than the Rieslings I’ve been
drinking, but it’s still much more lighthearted than the Cabernet Francs and Meritage blends I’m not quite
ready for.

 

Evan Dawson: Hermann J. Wiemer 2002 Blanc de Blancs

This was one of the rare occasions when we decided to open a sparkling wine to celebrate a big occasion. Typically, we try to incorporate sparkling as a nice food wine with friends, big occasion or not.

 

The wine world will be better off when sparkling wine is no longer viewed by many consumers as a strictly celebratory drink.

 

This wine was the first I grabbed from our sparkling rack. It has filled out nicely, a kind of baked bread coarsened by tingly acidity. Ideal sparkling wine for the region.

How was it that we allowed some mass-produced "champagne" to take us down this road of reserving such wines for festive occasions?

 

Aaron Estes: Templeton Rye

As much as I enjoy craft beer and New York wines, I grew up a scotch and whiskey drinker. On my 30th birthday, my father gave me a bottle of 30 year old Macallan that I continue to parse out, dram by dram, slowly but surely. I am hoping that it reaches my 40th birthday, as it is probably the finest whiskey I have ever tasted.  

But I digress...  This edition of WWD is about an American tradition that is gaining traction among those that follow what is hip and trendy. I am talking about rye.

A friend of mine, actually a fellow camp-mate from Burning Man (Thanks Genie!), first spoke of the taste and amazing qualities of Templeton Rye when we were on the Playa last year. Fashioned after the original recipe back in the days of Prohibition, Templeton out of Iowa is said to be created from the same recipe that Al Capone favored back in his days as the crime lord of Chicago. It was his preferred whiskey, and what he drank throughout his days while eluding the likes of Elliott Ness and the other members of the Chicago PD.

Can there be a better endorsement?

Templeton is smooth. Really smooth. It almost evaporates as soon as it hits the tongue. There is just a hint of smoke, but not harsh even in the slightest. A touch of sweetness, a bit of caramel, and a delicate scent of cedar on the nose.

This is a whiskey to be savored and cherished. I bring it out every now and then when I have had a difficult day at the office, or a weekend to share with friends who appreciate the same. Templeton is fantastic. I urge you all to find a bottle and enjoy a taste from American history.

 

Lenn Thompson: Ruckus Brewing Hoptimus Prime

Based on their performance, my favorite team, the Steelers, may not have realized it, but the NFL season kicked off over the weekend. I have a my myriad of superstitions tied to my watching of Steelers games -- and drinking at least one Pennsylvania-brewed beer during the game is chief among them.

Although Ruckus Brewing is headquartered in New York, NY, the beer is brewed in in Wilkes-Barre, PA -- not exactly Steelers country, but still within the boundaries of my home state.

Hoptimus Prime is a Double IPA style and it shows on the palate. There is some serious heft and density to the mouthfeel here.

The nose is classic American hoppiness -- all grapefruit and lemon with floral herbiness and just a little pine -- with some definite malty sweetness beneath.

I was actually a bit worried about that sweetness as I took my first sip, but I shouldn't have been. All those hops bring more than enough bitterness to scrub away the candy sugar and lift the citrus and pine qualities. It's a little thick for game day drinking (I started with it, but should have ended with it) but the bitterness nicely matched how I was feeling as I watched the game.

 

David Flaherty: Bonnezeaux, Chateau Perray Jouannet, Les Menus Clos, Loire, 2009

I don't get to drink enough sweet wines.  Well..let me rephrase that, I don't get to drink enough good sweet wines. 

For the last ten years that I have sold, studied, swirled and slugged wine, there has been one phrase uttered over and over again by people who are breaking into the world of wine (or at least trying to pick up a bottle that will impress the girl they're trying to woo): "I don't like sweet wines."  And I get it.  A lot of cheap swill has residual sugar and has gained a whack reputation (Boone's Strawberry Hill tonight, my darling?).  But a lot of the great wines of the world are sweet...and white.

I tried a Bonnezeaux the other day at a tasting of Loire wines and was floored. 

Such nervy acidity, such depth of character. Rich, honeyed fruit and such life, this liquid treasure could age and age for years to come. It sang from the glass. 

Bonnezeaux is a tiny area of the western Loire in the Anjou region where only white, sweet wines are permitted under AOC law. It is chenin blanc at its most expressive. I took pause, sat back in my chair and zapped into the experience...and the moment. 

That is what good wines do. Let me rephrase that: that is what great wines do.

 

BREAKING NEWS: Anthony Road Winemaker Johannes Reinhardt's Green Card Application Accepted by U.S. Government

By Evan Dawson, Managing Editor

The American government has accepted Johannes Reinhardt's application for permanent worker status, the New York Cork Report confirmed Tuesday.

This decision essentially guarantees that Reinhardt will finally receive a green card. He is now permitted to apply for a change in status, and legal experts say that part of the process is a mere formality. By law, Reinhardt can apply for the change in status along with his wife, Imelda, who is also seeking a green card.

Reinhardt has spent seven years applying for permanent worker status, often referred to as a green card, only to find consistent rejection. It's a process that can cost thousands of dollars, and without permanent status, Reinhardt has been unable to start his own business.

"I have been keeping both joy and disappointment in my heart throughout this time," Reinhardt said Tuesday. "I have never tried to allow myself too much emotion in either direction. But this is quite something."

That's an understatement, particularly given the fact that Johannes and his wife had been forced to consider other countries that might allow them permanent status. But his colleagues and friends urged him to make another application, and the stack of supporting letters had grown dozens of pages deep.

"I don't know how to thank everyone involved in supporting me," Johannes said. "This has been a dream, but you never know which way it will end up. So many people have been so passionate in their support, and I will always remember that."

Chief among Reinhardt's supporters were the Martini family, owners of the Anthony Road Wine Company. John and Ann Martini have proudly worked on Reinhardt's behalf, even though it's possible the German will move on to his own wine company once the green card arrives.

But there won't be changes at Anthony Road for a while, even with this development. Reinhardt says he's looking forward to the 2011 harvest.

Editor's note: The NYCR staff has received dozens of inquiries about Johannes Reinhardt's immigration status in recent weeks. We invite you to leave your thoughts in the comments section.

Red Tail Ridge Unveils New Lineup of "Obscure Red Varietals"

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes and Managing Editor

Visitors to Red Tail Ridge Winery on Seneca Lake have to weave through the vineyards to reach the tasting room, and lately they might have noticed something unusual. The signs at the end of the rows have taken on a rather offbeat edge, marking the home of grape varieties that many customers have never encountered.

Few can even pronounce Teroldego.

"We didn't start this winery to be a mainstream producer," Nancy Irelan, owner and winemaker, explained during a recent visit. "There's a part of Red Tail Ridge that will always experiment. We'll always have a component that's research-based."

Irelan is a longtime viticultural researcher, working in California for Gallo, and she's built a long resume of research and consulting projects. When she arrived in the Finger Lakes six years ago, she didn't leave the thirst for understanding on the west coast. Her desire to find the most suitable red grape varieties for the Finger Lakes has culminated in the launch of Red Tail Ridge's new "Obscure Varietal Series." It will include Teroldego (prounounced "teh-RAHL-de-go"), along with Blaufrankisch (you might know it as lemberger) and Dornfelder. Eventually, Irelan can envision planting even more unusual varieties, but she's not ready to reveal yet what those will be.

But why, I wondered, is Irelan investing so much time and attention to a line of wines that will comprise roughly eight percent of Red Tail Ridge's production?

"Because it's personal," she said, stern-faced. Then she broke into a wide smile. "Because it's fun! We feel that some customers will appreciate it."

Irelan's desire to educate wine consumers runs counter to the view of some of her colleagues, who might find it too difficult to convince customers to try these exotic-sounding wines. Yes, the world knows chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon, merlot or even grenache. Why start over with a wine like teroldego?

But Irelan does not find the challenge too tall. When it comes to white wine, Irelan is easily convinced of riesling's regional majesty; it forms the bulk of Red Tail Ridge's production. But on the red side, Irelan believes many more years of research are necessary before she can make any firm pronouncements.

This approach has impressed her neighbors. Johannes Reinhardt, winemaker at nearby Anthony Road Wine Company, recently said, "Nancy and Mike (Irelan's husband) are quickly becoming leaders. They're going to ring the bell for a long time, just wait and see."

It's also worth pointing out that Irelan has the luxury of making viticultural guesses that are more laser beams than shots in the dark. She has seen how grapes behave in a wide range of climates and soil bases.

"If we're going to take risks, we better do our homework," Irelan said. "We're a business and I'm married to an MBA."

That means each new variety receives only a small initial planting, with room to expand if the grape shows a track record of strong wines. Expect this lineup to expand, with the Dornfelder coming out around the holidays. Here are the wines we tasted on my visit.

2009 Teroldego

(34 cases) This is a still red wine; some customers will note that Irelan made a sparkling teroldego in a previous vintage. That sparkler was such a surprise hit with customers that Irelan is considering keeping it in the lineup, but she's strongly focused on making a varietal teroldego that will show the depth of the grape.

This wine is smoky and interesting, showing a kind of side that Irelan describes as "brooding." Teroldego is a big, thick-skinned grape that hangs in loose clusters, allowing it to avoid disease easily. The result (also thanks to the outstanding growing efforts of Mike Schnelle) is a wine that is showing some complexity at a young age. The tannins are present but soft; the wine is brambly and spicy. There's not much of it, yet.

2009 Blaufrankisch

(409 cases) For now, Irelan uses fruit from the Martini Family vineyard down the road, but Red Tail Ridge will soon have its own plantings. This version calls to mind many other Finger Lakes lembergers. Think raspberry cream, anise, a little campfire from the American oak that is only 11% new.

Regarding why she decided to go with the grape's traditional old-world name, Irelan said, "It's blaufrankisch. Why not just call it what it is? We want to keep the most commonly understood names for these wines."

2010 Teroldego (from barrel)

(90 cases) By any measure, this is the best wine of the group, and I rarely make such a statement about a wine tasted from barrel. But there is complexity and personality in this wine that stands above the other wines we tasted. That spicy note has turned into a finishing kick of capicolla, and the tannins are riper, offering more structure. I don't know where this wine will finish, but it's already arrived at a fascinating place.

2010 Blaufrankisch (from barrel)

(500 cases) Has the imprint of a long, warm growing season. This wine is similar to the 2009, but simply amplified and more complex. It seems to be wearing the oak well.

Paul and Shannon Brock Acquire Silver Thread Vineyard, Aim for Bigger Production

 
By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor
Photos by Tom Smith

 Paul and Shannon Brock have reached an agreement to assume ownership of Silver Thread Vineyard, a small operation on a highly regarded piece of property on southeast Seneca Lake.

The transition will begin immediately, with the Brocks set to oversee the upcoming harvest. And while they profess a desire to maintain the vision of founder Richard Figiel, the Brocks are planning significant changes.

Currently at 750 cases annually, the Brocks expect to increase production of Silver Thread wines to 1,000 cases this vintage, while eventually increasing production to 3,000 cases annually within five years. The first step toward achieving this goal is changing the vineyard management. Figiel has farmed the 10 acres of vines with organic practices in mind. 

"There were a number of things that Richard was doing that led to very low yields," Shannon Brock said. "The organic practices certainly contributed to that. We expect to see the yields increase this year. We're definitely hoping that will happen."

That doesn't mean overcropped vines. Paul Brock, formerly the head winemaker at nearby Lamoreaux Landing before taking a teaching job at Finger Lakes Community College, is a proponent of balanced vines and healthy yields. 

"Paul and I consider ourselves environmentalists," Shannon said, "but we'll make some changes. We'll continue to work organically when possible, but it's not always possible. It's a worthwhile effort."

In addition to changing the growing practices, the Brocks will eventually plant more vines -- mostly riesling. "There's room to get bigger," Shannon explained, noting that of the 27 acres of property, fewer than half are under vine. 

Figiel has agreed to offer his assistance of the first year under new ownership. He launched the operation in 1991 and convinced the Brocks to keep the winery name. 

"Some things will have to change, but a lot can stay the same," Shannon Brock said. "We respect the work Richard has done, and we're simply going to make sure more consumers can find Silver Thread wines."

Heron Hill Moves to Screwcaps for Most Wines

By Evan Dawson, Managing Editor    

In a matter of weeks, Heron Hill Winery customers will find many of the winery's wines closed under screwcap. The winery recently completed the installation of a screwcap bottling line (pictured above) that owner John Ingle described as "not an insignificant investment."

Ingle described the plan for Heron Hill wines in simple terms: The wines that need to be preserved for as long as possible -- with no change or evolution that comes from gradual oxidation -- will be bottled under screwcap. The wines that Heron Hill considers to be capable of evolving into something greater will be bottled under natural cork.

"The cork does breathe, and the screwcap does not breathe," Ingle said. "So if you want the wine to evolve, it needs to breathe." He explained that the Ingle Vineyard designation bottlings will continue to see cork closures, as will the Heron Hill reds, such as Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, and Eclipse. The Heron Hill line of Rieslings will be bottled under screwcap.

"It looks beautiful," Ingle said about the first line of whites to be bottled under screwcap, the Game Bird White series. "I get a thrill every time I twist one of those things off. I feel like a part of the future has arrived."

It's worth pointing out that Ingle's approach differs from that of another prominent supporter of screwcap closures: Paumanok Vineyards' Kareem Massoud, who was recently profiled in NYCR by Science Editor Tom Mansell. Massoud sees screwcap as a safer closure, one that protects the fruit character of the wine. Ingle sees cork as an essential element in allowing a high-end wine to transform and evolve in the bottle.

Ingle explained that he was concerned about cork taint in Heron Hill wines, though he has not studied how frequently Heron Hill wines were showing discernible flaws from cork. "In my inimitable style of jumping out the window without looking, I decided it sounded like a great idea and we were going to do it," Ingle said. "I want Heron Hill to continue to be a trend setter."

Winemaker Bernard Cannac (pictured top and at right) has been a big supporter of the winery's shift. "We are using screwcaps only on wines that are more sensitive to oxygen, that is to say, wines that do not benefit much from bottle aging," Cannac said. "The Game Bird wines are very fruity and fresh. To preserve them in this stage with a screwcap is a very good option, because the wines will stay as fruity and refreshing as they were the day they were bottled, or close to it."

Cannac sees the proliferation of screwcap closures as a way to improve the quality of cork closures.

"Personally, I think that natural corks will always be used," he said. "The natural cork market was seeing too much demand, which might have tempered with their quality. With the competition of the screwcap, it will ease this pressure on the natural cork demand, which production is limited by the number of cork oak trees available. In turn, the quality of natural corks will hit higher and higher standards."

Regarding concerns about reduction or other quality issues with wines under screwcap, Ingle said research is on his side. "Wines are more predictable under screwcap," he said.

Public Viewing Party for Chef Debra Whiting's Appearance on "Chopped"

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor

Hicks and McCarthy restaurant in Pittsford (outside Rochester) will host a public viewing party for Deb Whiting's appearance on the Food Network show "Chopped." The episode, taped months ago, will air Tuesday night at 10pm.

Deb Whiting died in a car accident in June. Her leadership in the culinary field has been celebrated at many events in the intervening weeks, and her appearance on "Chopped" is a reminder of just how highly she was regarded.

The public viewing party at Hicks and McCarthy begins at 8 p.m., leading up to the 10 p.m. show. The restaurant, which recently came under new ownership, has shown strong interest in local foods and wines. Those who attend are welcome to bring Red Newt wine for the party.

Vinpass: How Wine Became a Social Game

By Evan Dawson, Managing Editor

Lenn and I are always leery of new trends in social media and wine, but we also deeply admire the work done by our friends at VinTank and Cruvee. Those guys are working with wineries to reach consumers directly, and in new ways. They know that making consumers happy makes wineries successful, so it's all about access and innovation.

That's where VinPass, a new social game, comes in. The concept of "social game" might sound strange, but it's been around longer than you probably realize. Tens of millions of people play social games already, from FourSquare to Farmville to many others. Some are silly time-wasters, but others have the legs to connect people across the globe.

We think VinPass can work in exactly that way. It's designed for wine lovers at any level, but it's most appealing (we think) to avid but newer wine drinkers. That's because it's set up to help consumers learn while playing the game.

The concept is simple: through Web-based and mobile apps, you unlock passes or earn badges by completing a variety of tasks. And the task always includes tasting or drinking wine.

You can see why we think this is a winner.

VinPass has put together a pass centered on my book, Summer in a Glass -- check out the pass here. You can unlock it by tasting wines from the Finger Lakes producers featured in the book. Simple.

Other passes can be unlocked by tasting roses from around the world, or a handful of offbeat varieties, or simply by tasting wines from specific wineries.

As a reward, those who play the game can unlock discounts on wines, or earn invitations to virtual tastings, or any number of other incentives.

One feature that appealed to us is ease of use. "Ease of use is key," says Paul Mabray, Chief Strategy Officer of VinTank. "There are challenges that we are learning to accommodate. For example, if a platform allows users to write in the wines and they misspell the brand, this makes it challenging but we are creating new solutions every day."

VinPass launched with 47 sponsors and the support of a number of wine personalities. NYCR will actively monitor the social game, and if it goes according to plan, expect more involvement in the future. We think it can expose more consumers to new wines, and it's always a net positive when consumers are seeking new experiences. 

The Governor Just Did... What? The Meaning of New Legislation for Wineries and Consumers

By Evan Dawson, Managing Editor

Last week, Governor Andrew Cuomo signed legislation that, he says, goes a long way toward helping New York state wineries succeed. The changes come from recommendations made in 2008 by the New York Wine Grape Task Force, which was chaired by Paumanok winemaker Kareem Massoud. 

You can check out the news release from the governor's office here.

I figured there's no one better to put this stuff in context than Kareem Massoud. Our Q&A follows.

NYCR: What is the biggest impact that will come from this legislation?

KM: Making it easier for farm wineries to open satellite stores is potentially a huge boon as it allows them to expand their retail business.  In the Governor's press release they described the revised Direct Shipper Report as an efficiency.  And this provision will do just that, it will allow small wineries to operate more efficiently by not wasting time and money on meaningless data entry.  Governor Cuomo summed it up well when he said, "Reducing the regulatory burdens on farm wineries will allow them to continue to thrive as a key tourism, agricultural, and economic engine for our state."  

NYCR: How are consumers likely to be affected?

KM: Ultimately consumers will only be affected in a positive way by having an in state fine wine industry that was already meeting its needs do an even better job at producing high quality wines grown in New York State and catering to consumer demand.

NYCR: You spent a long time putting proposals together. How many of your recommendations were carried out?

KM: I have not seen the actual legislation, but after having read the Governor's press release, I am very pleased to see that this legislation has acted on at least five of the recommendations set forth in the New York Wine Grape Task Force report to the Agriculture Commissioner.  I first presented the idea of a Task Force for our industry while serving on then Governor-elect Spitzer's Transition Committee for Agriculture.  At the time, I had no idea that I would be asked to chair the Task Force and that some of our recommendations would actually be carried out.  When a colleague questioned whether it was worth participating in the Task Force, I said, "When was the last time the government asked you to help it reform itself?"  I feel a sense of accomplishment that -- at least this time -- political leaders (including Governors Spitzer, Paterson and Cuomo and Commissioners Hooker and Aubertine and Assistant Secretary Moody-Czub and Senators Young and Ritchie and Assemblyman Schimminger) were able to exercise the necessary political will to enact some basic reforms that were based on recommendations from the industry.  I applaud Governor Cuomo and all the other leaders involved and all the members of the New York Wine Grape Task Force.  I am grateful to have played a part in the reform process.

NYCR: Finally, is it cynical to wonder if there is a political component to the governor's support of this legislation? In other words, is it possible this is an effort to placate the wine industry, which might be upset with his actions on other upcoming matters?

 
KM: There is a political component to every piece of legislation.  Chances are, this one is no exception.  One has to wonder what political motives existed to implement some of these nonsensical regulations in the first place.

On Cayuga Lake, a Copper Glow (and the Pizza Within) Attract New Customers

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor

The small French commune of Tain-l'Hermitage is known for its pitched vineyards that yield some of the world's finest syrah. It is not nearly so well known as the birthplace of copper ovens.

"France's soil is good for more than just winegrowing," explain Seth and Mary Jane Kircher, the husband-and-wife owners of The Copper Oven, a specialty pizza joint connected to Cayuga Ridge winery. "Our oven was born in Tain-l'Hermitage and we worked with a family in Maine who helped us with its final construction."

The oven is a marvel to behold, and that's before it fires up to 800 degrees for the task of cooking a pizza in two minutes. Visible from the main routes that line the western shore of Cayuga Lake, the oven attracts first-time visitors who simply want to know what it is.

Seth has an answer prepared.

"The oven itself is 6000 pounds of 'terra blanche', or white organic clay brick, which offers a thermal efficiency and durability that is superior to materials like firebrick or refractory concrete found in comparable ovens," he says, as if it weren't already obvious.

On a recent visit, Seth was home with their young child, while MJ was cranking away at the oven. My wife and I split a pizza topped with prosciutto, creme fraiche, parmesan, onion scapes, and balsamic vinegar for $12. We grabbed a glass of Cayuga Ridge Riesling for $6. The pizza was thin, crispy, and, while pretty to look at, it lasted just a few minutes.

Describing their efforts as "hyper-local," MJ explains, "I'm not sure we have a most popular pizza, but we do get regular requests for the 26 Mile. All of that pizza's ingredients are sourced from within 26 miles of where the oven sits in Ovid, so we'll use Lively Run Chevre, local caramelized onions, and a generous drizzle of Stonybrook Butternut Squash Seed Oil."

Copper Oven customers commonly ask the Kirchers: Why did you purchase a wood-fired pizza oven on wheels?

"Suffice it to say, during our initial business planning exercise, wheels seemed to be our best insurance policy," MJ says. "You know, in case other revenue streams needed to be considered, like catering or events."

But after opening The Copper Oven in 2010, the Kirchers have not had to go mobile.

MJ's dad is the winemaker next door at Cayuga Ridge, and she says the combination of Finger Lakes wine and wood-fired pizza is "a perfect fit." The recipes come from MJ; the expert sampling is handled by Seth. MJ credits her mother, whom she describes as "a master in the kitchen," with inspiring her to launch a pizza business.

There is also a service mentality that pervades The Copper Oven. Seth is in charge of the "social mission," which includes donating five percent of The Copper Oven's profits to Healthy Food for All in 2010. In 2011, the Kirchers shifted the focus to the Drink Finger Lakes Wine project. 

"So far, sale of the specially made t-shirts have resulted in more than $450 in donations to the Finger Lakes Culinary Bounty," MJ says. 

Spend just a few minutes chatting with MJ and you find that she and Seth bring a kind of existentialist bent to everything they do. They are extremely sensitive to their place in the region. They share a wicked sense of humor but are also quick to become contemplative.

More than anything, you get the sense that the Kirchers just want to establish a permanent home and identity in the Finger Lakes. It can not be easy to make much money selling pizza, but this is the kind of couple more focused on seeing the business survive. They appreciate the culinary talent in the region and they're quick to praise others. If the copper dome that catches travelers' eye can become a lasting fixture, that just might be enough.

There is one more ingredient at The Copper Oven that is often lacking in young businesses: accessibility. Seth and MJ take an inordinate amount of time simply talking to customers and answering questions. You can see the connections forming in just five minutes. It makes for longer days, but they believe it's worth it.

I wonder if eventually they will find a reason to take that thing to a thousand degrees or more. "We can get the oven hotter than 800 degrees, but there's nothing on our menu that needs more heat than that," they explain. Does no one want a pizza finished in one minute? 30 seconds? These Kirchers are a lot of things, but ostentatious about their oven, they are not. Oh well, We order another pizza. As much as I want it now, I'll just have to wait.

In Praise of Home and Amateur Winemakers

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor

The word "authentic" is bandied about with too much regularity when we discuss wine these days, and yet I feel compelled to use it here. That's because there is nothing in the world of wine so raw, so ungussied up, so uncorporate -- so authentic! -- as a bottle of wine created by a non-professional. It almost never carries an industrial label, and often conveys, through a smudged and sticky exterior, the dirty hands required to make it.

The home winemaker is unburdened by bias. You think all Baco is subpar? Talk to the amateur who treasures his small crop every year and the tobacco-tinged wine it creates. Not willing to give Carmine a try? Home winemakers know you're missing something.

Some of New York's finest winemakers started out making wine at home. There are many ways to do it; you can purchase fruit, or purchase juice, or pay to use someone else's facility. And there are more facilities than ever before devoted to allowing customers the chance to make wine.

This is not to say that all amateur wine is good. But the process of making wine creates a kind of kinship that can't come from chasing point scores. Wine is a personal thing. It can carry the imprint of person and place, and no winemaker understands that better than the home winemaker. The goal is not to snare a 90-point score; the goal is to emerge with a product suitable for consumption. And when things are really clicking, the goal is to create a wine that just might fool friends in a blind tasting. For most home winemakers, that's plenty satisfying enough.

The first bottle of Carmine I ever drank was a homemade version, grown in a tiny vineyard on Keuka Lake and labeled with a small strip of masking tape. It was dark in color but high in acidity and, if it wasn't magical, it was undeniably palatable. A homemade 2002 Keuka Lake Carmine.

The creator of this wine is the very definition of the anti-snob. His cellar treasures include a handful of 30-year-old second-growth Bordeaux and a handful of his own Lemberger, also grown on Keuka Lake. Each bottle brings something special to the dinner table. Some of his closest friends are wine judges, and they're just as likely to be treated to a bottle of homemade sparkling wine as a high-priced cabernet.

It should come as no surprise that this home winemaker is patient and generous. He showed my wife's step-father, George Dornberger, how to make something drinkable. Maybe even something good. George harbors no illusions about his small batch of wine, but you can see the pride in his eye when a dinner guest finds his wine good enough to finish.

Finally, after nearly a decade, I met this home winemaker. Joe Bourcy (far right in the picture) came out for a book chat I hosted in Canandaigua. He introduced himself only as "Joe." It was his daughter who mentioned his last name, and I instantly felt like I was in the presence of a renowned winemaker, even though Joe's most doting critics are his family members. He invited my wife and me over for a glass of wine with a friend of his, Carl Shively, who also happens to make a seriously a good sparkling wine.

We talked Carmine and Bordeaux and Finger Lakes wine and what friendship truly means. We toasted to, in Joe's words, "old winemakers and new friends." I've spent long hours with some of the world's finest winemakers. It's hard to imagine a more special visit than my day with Joe Bourcy. He thinks the 2002 Carmine I have in my cellar is probably shot. To me, it hardly matters.

Commentary: Expensive Doesn't Mean Great in Just About Anything. Especially Wine

By Evan Dawson, Managing Editor    

By now you've probably heard about the faux scandal involving Congressman Paul Ryan and his expensive bottles of Burgundy at a D.C. restaurant. If you somehow missed it, here's a quick summary:

Rep. Paul Ryan goes out to dinner with some wealthy friends.

Those friends decide to order two bottles of a $350 Burgundy.

A woman sitting nearby recognizes Rep. Ryan and looks up the price of the bottles.

The woman decides it's somehow incongruous for Rep. Ryan to talk about the government cutting spending while he's drinking expensive wine.

She also wonders if his dining partners are lobbyists seeking to buy influence.

They're not.

The woman yells at Rep. Ryan, lots of people freak out, but then most realize this whole thing is ridiculous.

As usual, wine writer Mike Steinberger has the best take on this fiasco. You can read it here. I had no idea that any Congressional Representative that talks about cutting spending must lead an impecunious private life.

But that's not what's bothering me today. See, the woman who raised a fuss wrote a column last week that is getting a lot of play. And in that column, she perpetuates the absurd notion that expensive equates to high quality. Susan Feinberg writes:

In the midst of heated debates between the president and Congress over slashing government spending, three men sat down to a nice dinner with a couple of great bottles of wine in an upscale Washington, D.C., restaurant...Calling these folks out for drinking $700 worth of wine while negotiating spending cuts that saddle others with all the burdens of “austerity” is what really upsets the natural order of things.

(Bold is mine.)

If this seems like a nit to pick, I assure you this kind of talk only further erects barriers between wine lovers and those who find wine intimidating or pretentious. I hear this rubbish from people all the time. Often they're not regular wine drinkers and they roll their eyes while moaning, "I don't have nearly enough money to drink the kind of great wine you must usually drink."

Sometimes the greatest wines fetch the highest prices. Lenn reviewed the Hermann J. Wiemer 2009 Magdalena Vineyard Riesling this week, and at $36, it's one of the more expensive wines from the region. It's also very possibly the greatest. Anthony Road Wine Company's 2008 Riesing TBA is $100, and it's worth the money. But other comparatively expensive Finger Lakes wines are the various cabernet franc ice wines floating around, and they're rarely good value.

Most of the wines in my cellar are about as expensive as a pair of movie tickets. I'm not talking about the drink-now variety, either. I've happily laid down some of the finest riesling in the world, from both the Mosel and the Finger Lakes, and it will show its greatness for many years. And it's relatively cheap. Yes, I have a few bottles that crack into triple-digits, but that's because I find them to be tremendously good value even for the price. However, some of the truly great red wine that I'm holding is moderately priced Northern Rhone syrah. There's Beaujoulais that set me back teens. When I finally pop them on a future occasion, I promise you I won't be rolling out price tags for my guests. No one will care about that.

Obviously, Feinberg knows very little about wine. And I'll agree with her that spending $350 on a restaurant bottle is stupid, though not because it's unfair to the rest of the working world. People who earn money are entitled to spend it as they see fit. But spending $350 on a middling Burgundy is stupid because I could stock an entire rack with that kind of coin, and it would be far "greater" than that single bottle. 

That's the secret of wine that is, apparently, still a secret to so many people. Greatness has nothing to do with price. The sooner people like Susan Feinberg learn that, the sooner she'll learn that Rep. Ryan's greatest sin that night was having bad taste and poor judgment.

Fracking: Big Questions Still Remain

By Evan Dawson, Managing Editor

Last Thursday, a grassroots group went to Albany to ask state leaders to prevent hydrofracking from coming to New York state.

Many of the marchers were professionals in the Finger Lakes wine industry, which tends to view fracking as a serious threat. Winemakers and winery owners tell me there will be many more similar demonstrations, but they're not yet satisfied with the response from the wine industry.

Here are some big questions regarding fracking. 

How severe could the environmental problems be?

There's no way to know, but the rhetoric can be strong.

Long-time New York Times wine writer Howard Goldberg wrote recently on Twitter, "Finger Lakes political and wine figures who favor fracking should have their heads examined. It would repeat BP in the Gulf."

A repeat of BP? Families in parts of Pennsylvania dealing with contaminated water would likely agree. Energy companies say that kind of rhetoric only polarizes the discussion. Several energy executives have told me that while no method is perfectly safe, perfection is an unfair standard that would shut down any kind of energy exploration in the world. The goal, they say, is to minimize mistakes while taking advantage of a vast natural resource under our feet.

Energy CEOs point out that there are often two miles of rock between the drill spot and the source of drinking water. However, well blowouts have occurred at all depths under the surface, and have been caused by an array of issues, including ruptured cement casing.

Are there other concerns?

In the Finger Lakes, yes. The bucolic image would certainly be impacted by hundreds of large trucks on the roads. Infrastructure would be affected. Many winery owners fear their ability to draw tourists to the peaceful, beautiful landscape of the region would be compromised.

Are there benefits?

Energy executives say there are two significant benefits. The first is the straightforward benefit of accessing vast amounts of domestic resources. They say this way would stem the reliance on foreign oil.

The second is the economic benefit to landowners on which fracking occurs. Some landowners have called the benefits a windfall; others have said it's not worth the environmental concerns.

What are the penalties for well blow-outs or contamination?

That's a hugely significant question that will need serious answers if fracking becomes common in New York state. One winery owner who did not wish to be identified told me, "I don't think we can stop fracking at this point, so if it's coming, we ought to be pushing for serious penalties when things go wrong. Make it so severe that these companies will bend over backward to get it right."

Over the coming months, when the state holds public comment forums, expect to hear plenty of questions about penalties.

What does Governor Cuomo think about fracking?

The New York Times recently reported that the Cuomo administration is set to allow fracking across the state, with the exception of the New York City and Syracuse watersheds. But the governor's office responds that he's still seeking input and evaluating the process.

Why would the New York City and Syracuse watersheds be excepted, but not the rest of the state?

Expect to hear this question asked often.

What's the timeline for a decision on fracking?

The DEC plans to hold public forums and allow for months of public comment. The cynic would say that this is a procedural necessity unlikely to alter the framework of the DEC's plans for fracking allowance. But again, the Cuomo administration has repeatedly said that public comment will be vital to the process.

Finger Lakes Prepares to Honor Deb Whiting's Remarkable Life

By Evan Dawson, Managing Editor
Photo by Morgan Dawson Photography

You could forgive Judy Wiltberger for feeling skeptical about what she just heard. It was summer, 1989, and maybe the warm air and stunning views had imbued the region with an unrealistic sense of optimism. After all, Judy had doubts about her own grand visions for a winery called Keuka Spring. But the couple sitting across from her at dinner seemed perhaps one step further out of step with reality. They had just declared their hope to launch not only a winery, but a restaurant attached to it.

"I'm going to start a restaurant," the ebullient Deb Whiting had declared. "There's such great opportunity here."

And that, at least, was true. The culinary scene in the Finger Lakes was stuck on fast food and faster food. 

But there was a reason that wineries weren't built in tandem with restaurants: They couldn't make money, couldn't attract enough business. And it would be even more difficult to create a successful business in the vision laid out by Deb Whiting: high-end food, mostly local, with all local wines.

But Judy and her husband Len just smiled. If this couple wanted to take a shot, why not root them on? They seemed to have the energy. They would probably fail, but what's life without taking risks and seeing how far even the most unlikely dream can go?

*****

Deb Whiting shared more in common with her hero Alice Waters than she was willing to let on. Waters pioneered a local food movement in California; Whiting practically invented the local food movement in the Finger Lakes. She was proudly working with local agriculture long before it became a national trend, long before "local" became an effective marketing term.

But give Deb credit for two things: First, she didn't think the local food movement was a fad, but instead a permanent shift in values. Second, she didn't give a damn if she were wrong about that, because she was going to keep right on serving local food.

"This isn't a trend," she said on a summer's day in 2008. "People understand that local food is often better food, and it's better for them, and it's clearly better for the local economy. There's too much going for the local food movement to see it fade away. It's here, and it's only going to get stronger."

Deb's culinary exploits have turned local growers and purveyors into quasi-celebrities. Finger Lakes foodies are quite familiar with Autumn's Harvest Farm, a smaller-scale version of Joel Salatin's farm that gained national prominence in Michael Pollan's book The Omnivore's Dilemma. And how many trips to the Newt were punctuated by some magical creation featuring Lively Run chevre? 

The seasonally based raviolis at the Newt are a marvel. One hasn't dined until one has enjoyed Deb Whiting's rhubarb-chevre ravioli, or her mid-summer blueberry ravioli, or any number of other versions accented cleverly and subtly with lavender or currant sauce or fig. 

But unlike the celebrity chefs that have popped on reality television or in bookstores, Deb Whiting never stopped being accessible. Friends would muse about trying new recipes at home and Deb would insist they try a certain technique, following up with phone calls or emails to find out if it worked. Her customers knew her well enough to call her name across a crowded restaurant. One June afternoon I witnessed a table bolt to attention at the sight of Deb, rapturously applauding. First standing O I'd ever seen in a restaurant. 

I can still hear the applause bouncing off the walls of the dining room.

*****

The Independence Day weekend is supposed to be one of the most joyful times of the year in the Finger Lakes. The weather is warm, the lakes are alive, the wine is flowing. But for 48 surreal hours, every time someone laughed they felt almost, well, guilty.

Is it okay to laugh? 

There's no guidebook for dealing with this stuff, of course. So laughter is okay. So is sadness. And confusion. 

At Ravines Wine Cellars, a woman brought up Deb Whiting's name Sunday afternoon and promptly melted into convulsions. The entire staff bowed their heads. This scene was playing out at dozens of tasting rooms, dozens of times.

Mostly, though, I have moved past confusion and sadness. Now I'm just pissed.

*****

See, it's silly to talk about who deserves what in life. How are we to judge? What is the standard for who is more deserving of tragedy, or less?

But with that out of the way, I can tell you that Dave Whiting doesn't deserve this. 

I am angry, at no one and nothing, on his behalf. I am angry for the region. Nothing I can do, right? Have to try to move on, right? I don't care. I'm furious. 

Two weeks ago, Dave Whiting joined us for dinner in New York City. Deb was back home, and we were dining at the new Boulud Sud. Dave was so taken with the meal that he snapped off a handful of photos and immediately texted them to his wife. She couldn't be there to share it, so he wanted her to experience it as much as she could.

That's love. That's geeky, holding hands, flowers-for-no-reason love. How many couples still offer those little gestures after more than two decades together? How many couples are so excited to be married that they can't stand to miss one night out together? 

Hell, how many couples can work together every damn day and come out stronger? 

So I don't care if it doesn't make sense. I'm angry with the universe because I know there's nothing to make this right. 

And yet.

*****

The Finger Lakes has broken through to some impressive new heights when it comes to wine and food, but the region is on a knife's edge. Simply put, there's a lot of reason to believe the region can't succeed in the wake of this loss.

Here, though, is where legacy comes in. No one could argue that Deb Whiting had enough time with us, but she had enough time to build something special and lasting. She is gone, but her ethos is thriving. It is embedded in the Newt. That won't change. It has infected the culinary scene from lake to lake to lake. There are more fine dining options than ever before, many of them highlighting local food. Don't be so naive to think Deb's fingerprints aren't all over those establishments.

The stretch of road that hugs the southeast side of Seneca Lake is a monument to Deb Whiting. You're going out to eat, and how do you choose? There's the Newt, yes, but there's Stonecat Cafe. There's Suzanne, and Dano's. We're just getting started. It's a foodie's dream.

But there is a real risk now for the region. Deb Whiting was the thread that was often unseen, silently weaving culinary efforts together. She worked tirelessly for the Finger Lakes Culinary Bounty. Her goal was to share the stage, not own it. She knew that a team filled with all-stars is stronger than a team focused on one player.

It will not be easy to carry her efforts forward, but it will be necessary. This weekend, Judy Wiltberger smiled at the memory of Deb's eager pronouncements all those years ago. Deb has done her part to succeed where it was more than a little unlikely, and so many of us have benefited. She deserves to have her memory carried forward with even more significant successes for the region. 

And there's that word again: deserves.

*****

Dave Whiting deserves love and patience and support, and he'll get it. Ryan and Brenton and the rest of the Red Newt family deserve to know what Deb Whiting has meant to the Finger Lakes. There's comfort in knowing that they're already seeing it, and feeling it.

This week they will feel it directly when the region converges on the Newt to offer a formal goodbye.

Michael Warren Thomas, local broadcaster and leader in the local food movement, put forward an idea this weekend. What if, he suggested, we all showed our support by buying a couple of bottles of Red Newt wine? And what if our friends did, too? And what if some of us bought not just two bottles, but enough to use as hostess gifts and summer sippers and wintertime warmers? 

His email spread quickly. It seems obvious -- so many of us already buy Red Newt wine, right? But Michael's point is that there is some urgency. He figures people can show support by supporting the business, buying the wine, visiting the tasting room, and dining at Red Newt Bistro. All summer long. 

It is admittedly a difficult place to go these days. It will not be the same, ever. We can't expect it to be.

But we can feel good about this remarkable life, her relentless pursuit of quality, her refusal to even consider the notion that simply being good could be good enough. Our lives are fuller for having spent time with Deb Whiting, and grief doesn't have to have the last word. 

Deb Whiting Dies in Car Accident; Dave Whiting Injured

By Evan Dawson, Managing Editor

We are devastated to report the loss of Deb Whiting, co-owner and chef of Red Newt Cellars and Red Newt Bistro.

Deb died in a car accident last night while returning home from Vermont with her husband Dave, who was injured in the crash. Dave is listed in stable condition after being taken to a Syracuse hospital.

The Whitings have long been regional ambassadors, reaching into new markets and pushing for higher quality standards. The restaurant, built around Deb Whiting's passion for local agriculture, has won many awards and is the reigning NYCR Finger Lakes Restaurant of the Year.

We will have more to say about the Whitings next week. For now, we can only try, and fail, to convey our sadness over the loss.

This is an industry that takes great pride on a spirit of collaboration, and that spirit has never been needed more.

Our thoughts go out to the Whiting family as well as the entire Red Newt family and Finger Lakes wine community.

5 Finger Lakes Restaurants & Eateries That the NYCR Staff Should Frequent More Often

By Evan Dawson, Managing Editor

This list is a kind of public to-do list for me. It is not perfect or complete. This is not the list of the five best places to eat, or anything like that.

But anyone who lives anywhere (which accounts for most people) has a restaurant or two that they've always been meaning to visit, but haven't yet, or haven't in a while.

Here's my list. What's yours?

Pumpkin Hill Bistro, Aurora, Cayuga Lake

I'm pretty sure that everyone who's eaten there blows a gasket when they find out I haven't.

This is not intentional. But it needs to be rectified and soon. I mean, check out the menu.

Dano's Heuriger, Seneca Lake

I'm pretty sure the only reason Dano's doesn't get more love is because it's in that outstanding culinary alley that includes Suzanne Fine Regional Cuisine, Red Newt Bistro, Stonecat Cafe and others.

But this is a place that's earned it's spot among food lovers.

The Olney Place, Keuka Lake

This place, on Keuka Lake's east side, is a convenience store combined with a cult-famous breakfast and lunch spot. But they could get rid of all other food items and it would still be worth the trip for the Rachel sandwich.

Customers routinely tell owner Seth Olney that his Rachel is the best they've ever had. "They're right, of course," Seth says with a smile. "And it's always great to hear it."

Of course, you could always try the... Forget it, you're getting the Rachel.

Brown Hound Bistro, Naples, Canandaigua Lake

My wife has been after me to make a date at the BHB for several years now. I'll give it to the end of the summer. Promise!

Any place that lets you dock your boat

Seriously. How long does this opportunity last?

"Taking Off the Uniform": Anthony Road Prepares to Release Riesling Made with Native Yeast

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor

On special occasions, Anthony Road Wine Company winemaker Johannes Reinhardt hauls out a long, unlabeled bottle. It's marked only with the letters "SP." Those letters represent one important and potentially game-changing word.

Spontaneous.

In 2009, Reinhardt decided to experiment with natural, or spontaneous, fermentation. He created a small batch of riesling, only 80 cases, for the purpose of studying the differences between the usage of cultivated yeast and native yeast.

This is a small step, but potentially one with large implications for the Finger Lakes wine industry. Anthony Road is a leader in riesling quality, and if this project turns out to be successful, it would not be surprising to see other producers follow suit.

But that's getting ahead of ourselves. 

"Taking off the uniform"

Most Finger Lakes winemakers use cultivated (or "commercial") yeast to guide fermentations. Reinhardt has always done the same. Part of his desire to experiment with native yeast comes from his curiosity about what other characteristics might emerge in Finger Lakes wines.

"Cultivated yeast provides a kind of uniform," he says. "The wines might show similar characteristics, similar aromas and flavors. There's nothing wrong with that. But natural yeast removes the uniform, let's say it that way."

The result from his first effort with native yeast presents a kind of riesling that is markedly different. With 16 grams of residual sugar but blessed with high acidity, it's a wine that straddles dry and semi-dry. Johannes noticed the changes immediately.

"It's just different," he says. "It doesn't have the notes of sweeter fruits in the nose, no banana or pear, for example. There is a different set of aromas. And in the mouth it is quite different. There is this intriguing structure, more grip, a very interesting texture. There is more weight and good tension."

This riesling will become one of a small handful of wines in the region to be made in this method. Bloomer Creek uses spontaneous fermentation, and Hermann J. Wiemer uses less cultivated yeast than most. Reinhardt referred to the Wiemer method as "an inspiration."

  Reinhardt explains that using native yeast might allow the wines to better display vintage variation. "I would expect that to be the case, and I hope that's the case," he says. "I'm someone who enjoys seeing the differences from year to year, and I do wonder if cultivated yeast helps mask those differences."

Many of the best wines of Germany are made with native yeast, and that fact is not lost on Reinhardt, a German with great respect for his home country. 

"It will take years to get comfortable"

Despite Reinhardt's enthusiasm for this project, he is humble about the early results. After producing 80 cases of spontaneously fermented riesling in 2009, Reinhardt produced 102 in 2010 and is aiming to make closer to 200 in 2011, along with some gewurztraminer.

"But that's still a small amount of wine, you know?" he says. "Nothing has gotten out of hand so far, so that's good. But it'll take years go get comfortable, probably five or six or seven years for me."

In 2009, Reinhardt had to exercise patience, "which is not always easy for a German to do," he explains. After clarifying the juice, Reinhardt prepared it for fermentation and then waited. "After a week, nothing," he says. "After two weeks, still nothing. I was not nervous because I knew the juice would do what it wanted to do. But after three weeks, you could finally hear the fermentation taking place. It had started on its own."

In 2010 he only needed to wait seven days for the fermentation to begin. And despite the occasional association of natural wine with some of the wilder aspects of winemaking, Reinhardt insists that cleanliness is key. "You simply must have a clean facility, and you have to fill your tanks," he says, explaining that full tanks will ward off early oxidation.

Ultimately, Reinhardt can envision making most of his wine in this method. "But that's a long road to go," he says with a smile. "I'm just trying to gain experience. I have so much to learn."

First release coming soon

Don't ask Reinhardt if he thinks wine made with spontaneous fermentation is better. He says it's far too soon to know -- and he will continue to use cultivated yeast in most of his winemaking for now. After all, some of the most highly regarded wines in the world are made with cultivated yeast. "There's no right or wrong here," he says. "I think we're all just trying to do the best we can."

The Anthony Road 2009 Spontaneous Fermentation Riesling will be released in September, Reinhardt says, likely for around $20. They will have to figure out what to call it. Reinhardt might downplay its significance, but for a producer of Anthony Road's stature, everyone will be watching and tasting this riesling.

A Familiar Face Stops By in Ithaca

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor

That photo is me with Hermann Wiemer, who stopped by a wine tasting/Summer in a Glass book event at Red Feet Wines Market in Ithaca last night.

It was the first time I've seen Hermann in quite a while, and the first time we've spoken since the book came out.

Naturally, I've wondered what he thought about it, and about the chapter focusing on his legacy in particular.

All I can tell you is that before the end of the night, Hermann was signing books for Red Feet customers.

We chatted about a number of subjects, none of them officially on the record, so I can't get into details. But I hope to follow up with Hermann soon and get his formal take on many New York wine subjects.

He has strong opinions and I hope he continues to share them, even in retirement. 

How Long to Hold a Bottle of Good Riesling? At Heron Hill and Elsewhere, the Search for Answers Goes On

By Evan Dawson, Managing Editor

When is the ideal time to open a well-made Finger Lakes riesling?

It seems like a silly question, doesn't it? The answer is often, and appropriately, "Whenever you feel like it."

And start with this: There's no Finger Lakes riesling that will be so closed as to be unready if you open it young. Even the 2010 rieslings coming off the bottling lines this spring will be fine in short order.

But the best wine tells an extended story, one that unfolds in multiple acts. A great riesling in its youth is all nervy, adolescent energy. In its second act, the story evolves to something more complex and measured, perhaps richer and more rounded. The denouement brings a new kind of intensity, one that simultaneously echoes its youthful core while delivering wisdom and fullness. 

If you've not had the pleasure of enjoying mature riesling yet, trust me when I tell you it's an experience worth pursuing.

But how long to wait? Ask ten Finger Lakes winemakers, and you'll hear a wide range in responses. Most often, but certainly not always, I'm told the safe bet is to open the wine at age three. As long as you've stored the bottle properly, that ensures that you'll still capture those primary notes while getting an early glimpse into where the wine might go.

But it's the first intermission, and you'll miss the rest of the show.

It's important to acknowledge with New York wines -- not simply Finger Lakes riesling, but Long Island merlot and other varieties grown across this state -- that we don't have a large enough track record to know. Not yet. For years, even the finest New York producers were not building a library. And the dirty little secret is that some winery owners will confess to not-quite-ideal storage conditions for some wines they did hold.

There is more of a focus than ever on observing aging trends in Finger Lakes rieslings. Any consumer can be part of the exploration. One bottle always puts pressure on the owner to find the "right window" for drinking. Yes, it's more expensive, but when you find a truly special riesling, buying a case can be immensely rewarding. Opening one bottle every year for a dozen years is a fascinating process to watch unfold. Detailed notes help recall the prior incarnations.

Better yet, there are more opportunities than ever to hook up with Finger Lakes producers that are offering vertical tastings of rieslings to the public.

Earlier this month, Heron Hill Winery offered a vertical tasting of its Ingle Vineyard Riesling dating back to 2002. Here are some notes from that tasting.

• 2002: Mature and classy, turned over to significant petrol
• 2003: Stunningly fresh, this wine shows tremendous cut and energy, with no petrol whatsoever. It has added mouthfeel with time, but the fruit is still primary. While the 2002 is in its final act, this wine is arguably just seeing the start of act two.
• 2004: A bit one-dimensional in its petrol character, with perhaps more weight than younger versions
• 2005: Not poured; the winery decided it has not aged as they prefer
• 2006: Complex, with nice juiciness to balance the steely edge that often comes from this vineyard
• 2007: Difficult vintage shows in the petrol and advanced age; not one to hold for too long
• 2008: Just a baby, with all of the elements for a dazzling life ahead 

TasteCamp North: Canadian Soil, with Echoes of New York

By Evan Dawson, Managing Editor

In Niagara, winemakers use the word "terroir" often. We heard it just about everywhere we went. It's a word spoken far less often in New York state, where winemakers speak of sense of place or perhaps "somewhereness," while occasionally dropping "terroir" into conversation as well. 

Why does this matter? It's not simply relevant because Canadians speak a lot of French. It's relevant because in Niagara, where I spent several days for TasteCamp North, "terroir" is not about marketing. It's about an honest exploration of the soil and what it can provide.

This is no small detail. In Niagara, there is money. I mean, serious, serious cash. Some of the estates (Chateau des Charmes, Hillebrand, Tawse) look like they were pulled out of Napa, polished new, and dropped in Canada. And it's comforting to know that all of that money (often coming from the Toronto business community) isn't just purchasing attractive buildings and new barrels (though there are piles of new barrels -- a little too many for my taste). The owners of these estates have very obviously invested in high-quality winemakers and well educated vineyard staffs. 

And that means that Niagara is populated with soil geeks.

I found similarities between the best wines of New York state and the best wines of Niagara, Canada. But more interestingly, I found that the soils and climates of New York state, which show great variation from the top of the state down to Long Island, are mirrored in a much tighter Canadian space. For tourists, that sets up some fascinating possibilities.

First stop: Niagara-on-the-Lake

Like Long Island, Niagara-on-the-Lake is showing some success with Bordeaux varieties. And like Long Island, the best Bordeaux variety wines are outstanding in any setting, and compared to wines from any region.

Niagara-on-the-Lake can pull this off thanks to a warmer climate than the rest of the region. It's farther away from the lake, which means an earlier spring and a longer growing season. In years like 2007 and 2010, red grapes can enjoy all the ripening they want, and then some.

At the stunningly beautiful Chateau des Charmes (part of their vineyard pictured right), we enjoyed an informative chat with proprietor Paul Bosc, Jr. Paul couldn't help but point out that despite any presumptions we might have about Canadian wine regions, his vines didn't lag Bordeaux by all that much and actually benefit from more ripening in the peak of summer than most French vines. Paul took the Bordeaux comparison indoors during lunch, where we had the opportunity to see how high the quality could go.

We were presented three barrel samples from the prodigious 2010 vintage. All were bound for the Equuieus bottling, a top-flight cuvee that is only produced in strong vintages. The three samples showed varying levels of new oak. The sample with neutral oak was easily the most complex, allowing pure fruit to show muscle and grace. I figured it to be an easy winner, the main component for a coming blend that could be dazzling.

Then Paul took a show of hands. Fewer than 20 percent favored the this sample. And if writers prefer the sweet, oaky flavors in the other samples, is there any doubt that customers would, too?

Paul spoke about the assumptions and bias that his region must face. He is clearly proud of the Equuieus bottlings, and understandably so. But these wines are, to me, impeded by the oak and lack the elegance present in great wines. And here was a touch of irony: Paul speaks about terroir, but he masks some of the nuance of his soil with that expensive wood.

Here's the good news: Chateau des Charmes is setting the pace for big Canadian wines, and Paul's staff has the luxury of winemaking options. My guess is that eventually they'll dial down the heavy oak and put their impressively structured wines out front. But anyone who doubts that red wine can thrive in Canada should stop at this estate.

Now, in New York state, the transition from a region that succeeds with Bordeaux varieties to a region that champions cooler climate varieties is only about a five-hour drive. From the North Fork to the Finger Lakes, the New York wine landscape changes with the soils, the slopes, and the slightly cooler climate. Niagara-on-the-Lake is very much flat, evoking Long Island. But in Canada, you don't need five hours to reach the next wine region. It's a half-hour's drive west, to the Beamsville Bench. The terrain begins to rise and fall, and out here, closer to the lake, the spring starts more sluggishly. But when it does, it's riesling and pinot country.

Next stop: Beamsville Bench

We had tasted a few rieslings from Niagara-on-the-Lake that I'd like to forget about, and thankfully the wines of Beamsville Bench helped me do just that. I was simply enthralled with the rieslings from 30 Bench Winery, a smaller producer that focuses heavily on riesling and cabernet franc.

We visited a larger producer that also focuses strongly on riesling and cabernet franc, with results no less captivating. Vineland Estates is another fairytale setting. We arrived to find a wedding on the property.

But it's not all cartoons and fireworks here. Winemaker Brian Schmidt (pictured right addressing our group) could talk about his vineyards all day long, and he's so compelling that you might find yourself listening for as long as he wants to pontificate.

Interestingly, Brian says that he and the vineyard staff tried to cut down on the cropload several years ago. "We heard so much talk about low yields and higher quality, so we wanted to see what would happen if we made some changes," he explained. "But take an experienced vineyard, and you'll find that it knows what it wants. IT knows what it needs. We thought we had dropped fruit and made the changes to achieve around two tons to the acre, and wouldn't you know it? It produced almost exactly the same tonnage that it was producing the previous year."

So instead of trying to manipulate his vines and soil, Schmidt says he lets it decide what it wants to produce. The wines indicate it's the right approach.

This is one of the rare producers that not only lays down a large amount of wine; it allows customers to taste and purchase library wines in the tasting room, every day. We saw wines from the early-to-late 1990s available for only $25 per bottle. That's practically stealing, and it's stealing a piece of history.

  Now, it's only interesting if the wines have longevity. At Vineland Estates, the rieslings certainly do. I found a 1998 riesling to be tired, but a 1989 riesling -- opened by Brian in a spur-of-the-moment, what-the-hell-why-not decision -- was a marvel.

The 2010 lineup, still developing, promises to be special. A richer, balanced bottling will be set aside for five years before the public can taste it. For me, it was the wine of the weekend. And the Vineland Estates 2002 Cabernet Franc was stunningly fresh and vibrant, and saw no oak at all. Brian explained it went through micro-ox, and I was surprised to find it had plenty of verve and complexity.

 The soil exploration was at its most intense at Tawse Winery, a biodynamic estate that produces perhaps the best pinot noir in Niagara.

For all of the heated debate about biodynamics, winemaker Paul Pender (right) brings an utterly refreshing lack of militancy to the discussion. He happily showed off the winery's dynamizer, and spoke of burying cow horns filled with excrement, but it's clear that for Pender, biodynamics is not about religion. It's about a practical approach to cultivating the healthiest vineyards and producing the best possible wines.

While the Tawse pinots are excellent, the chardonnays were attention-getting. Pender's unoaked chardonnay is a precise, crackling version of this grape that is so often punished with wood. In fact, the only misstep in the Tawse portfolio is the Meritage blend, but then, this isn't Niagara-on-the-Lake.

The conversation about soils continued all weekend long. Wine lovers might be surprised at the sophistication on display in this region. With more than 100 wineries, tourists can enjoy a glitzy, glamour wine tour, or they can make appointments and get down in the dirt with some world-class winemakers. Unlike many emerging regions, Niagara is not banking on a single variety. There's too much diversity in soil, landscape and climate. It's like having the Finger Lakes wedged up against Long Island -- why narrow the search when a broad exploration makes sense?

A word about Niagara Chardonnay

The region is clearly excited about its chardonnay. I favor a Chablis-like profile in chardonnay, unoaked and edgy. We didn't taste much unoaked chardonnay during TasteCamp, but I'm told many wineries make both an oaked and unoaked version. My advice: Ask for the unoaked.

 

World Renowned Rhone Valley Winemaker Forges New Partnership in the Finger Lakes

By Evan Dawson, Managing Editor

Photo from left to right: Justin Boyette, Phil Davis, Rick Rainey, Louis Barruol

Louis Barruol, vigneron of the critically acclaimed Chateau de Saint Cosme winery in France's Rhone Valley, has agreed to a partnership to make wine under a new Finger Lakes label. Chateau de Saint Cosme is located in Gigondas and is widely considered the top producer in that appellation, while also producing wine from various other Rhone appellations, including Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

Barruol will be an equal partner alongside Rick Rainey in the new Forge Cellars project. Justin Boyette, winemaker for the Hector Wine Company, is also involved and will help make the wines at the Hectcor Wine Company facility. Phil Davis, of Damiani Wine Cellars, is on board as well, offering to help the team secure quality fruit.

The first vintage of Forge Cellars will be 2011, with a small initial production of only riesling and pinot noir. Barruol expects to make roughly 300 cases of each this year, with an eye toward gradually increasing production in coming years.

This partnership is the result of several years of planning. Rainey, who lives in Trumansburg and works for Winebow, met Barruol on work trips to France years ago. They struck up a friendship and Barruol later told Rainey that he was interested in a new, small project outside the Rhone Valley that would focus entirely on quality. Barruol had toured wine regions in search of the right fit, but was ultimately unimpressed with what he found in Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa. So Rainey asked Barruol to visit the Finger Lakes, and the French winemaker was quickly enamored.

"The Finger Lakes is better than anything I saw anywhere else," Barruol said this week during his third visit to the region. "This is the place I like most."

The tentative plan is for Barruol to visit the Finger Lakes several times each year, with at least one visit during harvest. His winemaking decisions will not be unilateral; Boyette will contribute and handle much of the execution, with Rainey and Davis offering input on growing and other areas.

"The bar is going to be extremely high," Rainey said. "We know that. We've been working for a long time to launch this project and we're finally ready." But he added, "The last thing we want anyone to think is that Louis Barruol is coming to the Finger Lakes to show everyone how it's done. We're going to learn from the other great winemakers in this region, and we're going to try some new things. We've met privately with other winemakers already and we've heard nothing but positive feedback."

Boyette said that he's eager to work alongside Barruol. "His track record is phenomenal," Boyette said during Barruol's recent visit. "I'm sure I can provide some answers and ideas when it comes to winemaking in the Finger Lakes, and I'll certainly learn from his ideas, too."

A conversation with Barruol reveals that the Frenchman will indeed seek to try new approaches.

Louis Barruol: Opinionated but humble

"I am not here to tell anyone anything," Barruol said as we tasted through his impressive lineup of Gigondas cuvees.

They are the kind of red wines that offer a glimpse of what the Finger Lakes might aspire to on a slightly smaller scale: Depth, but freshness, and "no fat!" as Louis says. "The Finger Lakes was already doing great things before I came here," he continued.

I asked if he had been impressed by any Finger Lakes wines or winemakers in particular. He singled out a bottle of Red Newt 2006 Reserve Riesling and also praised the pinot from Heart & Hands. Then he said,  "Morten at Ravines and Fred at Wiemer. They are outstanding. To me, the Finger Lakes can easily compete with the greatest German rieslings. Easily. The best Wiemer is not much different than the best German wines. Quality is already here. We can find it."

But Barruol plans to do things that few others are doing in the region. It starts with his plan to use old barrels for riesling. "I have made a lot of white wine in stainless steel and a lot of white wine in wood," he said. "I think stainless steel is the worst for making wine. In old wood, the wine stays very, very fresh. You would not be able to tell it's aged in wood. It's just a bit rounder, but there is no oak influence whatsoever in the wine."

Customers can expect dry riesling with a big frame from Forge Cellars.

"Our grapes will be ripe, but our wines will be dry," Barruol said. "Sugar is a problem for me, usually. We don't want much sugar."

Then there are his plans for pinot noir. Barruol loves Burgundy, and when his Gigondas cuvees age, he finds they take on a more Burgundian quality. The Finger Lakes will give him his first chance to make pinot noir.

"Sleepy potential"

"The immediate potential for riesling is great," Barruol said. "The sleepy potential for pinot is also great, but there is a long ways to go with it."

He finds the Finger Lakes climate to be superior to most others in the world for pinot noir. "Pinot doesn't like sun. Pinot likes clouds. Pinot gets burned easily. If the Finger Lakes had milder winters, it would be the ideal climate, perfect."

Barruol explained his biggest concern about making complex, quality Finger Lakes pinot noir. He is opposed to the use of clones, and favors the old-world method of planting "selection massale," detailed in this link.

"You can not gain the same complexity with clones," Barruol said. "The vines are all the same, and the wines are safe, more simple." He explained that in Gigondas, for example, "it is all different. You have different plants, not clones, and it is so much better for the wines. But at some point, scientists convinced everyone that clones were healthier. I don't even think that's true."

Barruol will purchase fruit in the Finger Lakes made from clones because, for now, there is no other option. "That will take many years to change," Phil Davis said. "But he makes good points. I'm very open to new plantings and new ideas. We're all here to explore. Wine is not all science; it's art."

Forge Cellars: All about quality

"We are pouring everything into quality," Rainey said. "That's the advantage of a small production. We want to see how high quality can go. The first few years will be largely experimental, with a lot of variables, but we know there will be high expectations. We welcome that."

"Sometimes you're lucky and you find a good recipe immediately," Barruol said. "But sometimes it takes a few years. We'll see."

Forge Cellars wines will be sold in the Hector Wine Company tasting room and eventually a few local stores and restaurants.

"I just think about the last few years, and the fact that Louis could have chosen to start a new project anywhere in the world," Rainey said. "He chose the Finger Lakes. I think that says all you need to know about how good Finger Lakes wines are, and how good they can be."

Winemaker Changes at Finger Lakes Wineries: Barry to Keuka Lake Vineyards, Wilber to Swedish Hill, Uncertainty at White Springs

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor

"It's a rare day when a bridge gets burned. It seems that in the Finger Lakes, you can move around in the wine industry and keep your relationships strong with previous employers and colleagues. That's one of the great attributes of this region."

So says Derek Wilber (pictured right), the outgoing president and winemaker of White Springs Winery on Seneca Lake, and the once-and-future winemaker at Swedish Hill on Cayuga Lake. Wilber, who worked at Swedish Hill from 2000 to 2005, will return next week to take over for Ian Barry, who heads west to lead the winemaking operation at Keuka Lake Vineyards.

It is a series of moves that will likely not impact the average consumer very much, and that's unusual with so much change.

But for everyone involved, it means a drastic change in roles.

Ian Barry: Highly respected winemaker will focus on much smaller operation

 
Ian Barry (pictured left) has been responsible for roughly 80,000 cases of wine each year (a very large number in the Finger Lakes region). At Keuka Lake Vineyards, he'll make around 3,000 cases.

"At Swedish Hill, I spent a lot of time managing workflow," Barry says, while crediting Swedish Hill for investing in a large staff and high-end equipment. "At KLV, it's just going to be me in the cellar. I'll know exactly what's been going on with every wine at all times. And, ultimately, I feel like I'll be able to spend more time with the wine."

Keuka Lake Vineyards has expanded the riesling program in recent years, and Barry has tasted alongside his friend Staci Nugent, the current winemaker who has decided to move on to other career pursuits. Barry has high praise for Nugent and for the ambitions of KLV owner Mel Goldman.

"I've always found their rieslings in particular to be among the best in the Finger Lakes," Barry says. "The mineral-driven style with racy acidity has always been a style that appeals to me, and I think they're doing it really well."

He adds, "Mel has no desire to grow the business very big. He plans to keep it small and focus on quality, and develop a following for his wines."

Derek Wilber: Return to Swedish Hill ensures stability at large, important operation

Wilber says a large business can still be a family business, and that defines Swedish Hill. "I'm excited to go back," he says. "The Petersons have always been great people to work for."

In recent years, Barry has led Swedish Hill to a long list of industry honors, and Wilber praises his colleague for it. "This is a real good fit for me, but certainly Ian's shoes will be big to fill."

As one of the most visible Finger Lakes wineries, Swedish Hill has guaranteed stability with the return of an experienced winemaker like Wilber. 

But Wilber admits that leaving White Springs Winery is difficult, and his move was prompted by the very public attempts to sell the winery. "Since this business was put up for sale, I've kept my eyes and ears open," Wilber says. "I didn't go looking for work, but I also had no guarantee of my current position if the winery is sold. You just never know, and so when Swedish Hill called, it felt right."

White Springs Winery: A maturing operation now has an uncertain future

Wilber will consult for White Springs Winery and professes his desire to see it sold to someone who will keep the business operating as a winery. "We've really gained some good understanding of what this land is capable of in the past five years," Wilber says. "It's tough to walk away from that. You do it with a heavy heart. But that doesn't mean the next owners won't see the same potential."

A listing by the Pyramid Brokerage Company shows White Springs Winery for sale at a price of $5 million.

After substantial investments to grow the brand, improve the tasting room, and modernize the winery, White Springs will eventually have its future determined by new owners. Wilber thinks wine lovers won't see much change. "I don't see any reason why that would be the case," he says. "We'll all do our part to preserve what they've started."

Book Review: M.F.K. Fisher Comes Passionately to Life in 'An Extravagant Hunger'

By Evan Dawson, Managing Editor

There will come a time, long after we are dead, when writers and researchers will wonder who some of us were. Not that we existed, but who we were to our core, what drove us, how we responded to challenge and tragedy. I suspect that the ease of communication in the modern era will make a full accounting of written communication more difficult for researchers. After all, who keeps many emails or text messages in the way we once filed letters away?

We can be thankful that M.F.K. Fisher came to prominence in an era that required hand-written and type-written notes and letters. And we can be thankful that such records, carefully preserved, found a thoughtful writer in Anne Zimmerman to make sense of them.

An Extravagant Hunger: The Passionate Years of M.F.K. Fisher is an extraordinary book, careful and diligent and often wise in its estimation of the famous food writer. Most impressively, it's an outstanding read, a true page-turner in league with the best narrative non-fiction.

Author Anne Zimmerman clearly spent many, many days studying the letters and writings of M.F.K. Fisher. Zimmerman seeks to tell the story of who Fisher was (and what led her to become the woman she was) in her early years. The book covers Fisher's childhood through her second marriage, which ended tragically.

It is simply fun and inspiring to read M.F.K. Fisher in her own private words instead of trying to decipher the woman through her public writings. Zimmerman does not overwhelm the narrative with excerpts, but uses them nourishingly and effectively. And we find that Fisher was undeniably a tremendous writer, as even her daily musings sound effortlessly poetic.

But it is also an emotional grind to follow the passionate years of Mary Frances Kennedy Fisher, because they are often wrenchingly sad. From Fisher's misguided first marriage to her loss of the true love of her life, we journey around the world and back with a young woman who seems followed by sadness.

It is easy, thanks to Zimmerman, to understand why M.F.K. Fisher became so enamored with food. Her first view of food was literally of forbidden fruit, thanks to a traditional grandmother. Then food became the outlet for her creativity and her passion, rising while her relationships fell.

Zimmerman relied on letters, but she was cleverly selective in sketching the portrait of the young M.F.K. Fisher. Zimmerman notes that Fisher's letters home from Europe often contradicted her other writings, so instead the author uses the more frank and intimate letters from friends to Fisher and her responses to them. Those are the moments when even the enigmatic M.F.K. Fisher could hardly obfuscate. Zimmerman trims away the confusion to allow a clear view of this remarkable writer.

M.F.K. Fisher could easily have been a modern-day blogger. That is not a pejorative. The great food writer would chronicle each meal and write in bursts, and blog writers are wise to study Fisher's work.

In the end, readers are likely to feel satisfied and nourished, having experienced just enough spice to keep the book interesting. That is, it turns out, exactly what M.F.K. Fisher loved most about food. Whether Zimmerman attempted to parallel that with her writing, we don't know, but she pulls it off beautifully. The language only rarely attempts to dazzle, like a carefully spiced dish that allows each element to shine without one ever overwhelming another. Anne Zimmerman should be proud of her work. It seems certain that M.F.K. Fisher would be.

Images from the Sold-Out Book Launch Party at the NYWCC

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor
Photos by Morgan Dawson Photography 

Can you see how much fun we had on Saturday?

We were overwhelmed with the turnout for the official book launch event at the New York Wine and Culinary Center for Summer in a Glass. That's Fred Merwarth of Hermann J. Wiemer on my left and Johannes Reinhardt of Anthony Road Wine Company on my right.

Johannes and Fred kept the crowd entertained with stories of their personal journies (if you haven't heard it, you must ask Fred about Hermann's fib when Fred first went to work for Wiemer). There was a moment when the room burst into applause in support of Johannes and his quest to earn permanent status in this country. And the quality of the questions from the audience when it came to winemaking was off the charts.

I'm told they had to turn some people away -- the room was packed, and the staff did a fantastic job. We enjoyed food from the NYWCC, and this was the wine list:

1. Hermann J. Wiemer 2006 Cuvee Brut
2. Hermann J. Wiemer 2009 HJW Vineyard Riesling
3. Hermann J. Wiemer 2009 Magdalena Vineyard Riesling
4. Anthony Road 2008 Semi-Dry Riesling
5. Hermann J. Wiemer 2008 Cabernet Franc
6. Anthony Road 2007 Martini-Reinhardt Selection Cabernet Franc
7. Anthony Road 2008 Pinot Gris Bellaria dessert wine

As you might guess, the wines were cheered at every step. 

If we missed you Saturday, see you soon at one of the events found on this page.

Our thanks to Chrys Baldwin, Shannon Brock, and the staff at the NYWCC. 

And our thanks again to Fred and Johannes for giving their time and energy to make for a truly memorable event.

Readers Share the Ways 'Summer in a Glass' Has Impacted Their View of Finger Lakes Wine

By Evan Dawson, Managing Editor

The emails and comments from readers has already been overwhelming. Lenn thought it would be interesting to share a selected comment from time to time, and we encourage NYCR readers to share their thoughts as well.

This comes from a man named Wolf Tinz. I don't exactly know where Wolf lives, but I found his email extremely moving.

Some readers have already told me they plan to join us for the official book launch event this coming Saturday, April 23, from 4-6 at the New York Wine and Culinary Center in Canandaigua. Tickets are still available and two strapping winemakers are joining me to pour their wines and chat. We'll have some great food, too.

Thanks so much for reading and supporting the book. I'll let Wolf take it from here.

****

Dear Evan,

I would like to compliment you on your new book “Summer in a Glass”, but I must relate a story to put it into context, so here it goes.

Last week was my wife’s birthday. I gave your book to her last Thursday morning and she buried herself in the book and finished it the same day. That evening we went out to celebrate with our good friends Peter and Hannilore, an Austria toolmaker and tool and die shop owner who befriended us some years ago. All through dinner Cecil gushed about the book she just read knowing they also have a deep interest in wine. At the end of the evening I reminded them that Saturday was my day to cook (we have a weekly tradition where the four of us all take turns to acting as chef of the day).

 Our guest arrived that Saturday evening and Peter had brought us a bottle of 1997 Wiemer Riesling from his wine cellar, saying,  “Here, I think you will enjoy this”. While they had no idea as to the menu for the evening, it was the perfect choice to go with the seafood crepes and Pisaladiere I had prepared. It was the oldest and by far the best Finger Lakes wine I’ve ever tasted! As we finished our dessert and savored the last of the German Trockenbeeren Auslese I had uncorked for the evening Peter had glanced at the book and said, “Since you have a Barnes & Nobel membership, could you order me “Three copies?”

“Three?” I said”

“Yes, two that I can give as gifts and one for me”.

 Now back to my original thought for this note:

Your book has given us a new appreciation for the wine and winemaker of this region and we will surely pay more attention to the up and coming wines of this area. Its conversational style made it an easy and enjoyable read. Thank you also, for your contribution to promoting the evolving local wine industry. People need to know there is more to the local wine industry than Crackling Lake Niagara and jug wine.

Sincerely,

Wolfgang & Cecil Tinz

One Vineyard, Many Winemakers: Evaluating the Differences in 2010 Sawmill Creek Wines

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor

Some of the 86 acres of vines at Sawmill Creek Vineyards rise so steeply that a machine harvester can not safely venture between the rows. The site on the southeast side of Seneca Lake provides fruit for nearly 30 wineries every year, and its combination of slope, location and vineyard management has earned Sawmill Creek a strong reputation.

Recently a fascinating question arose in the mind of Dave Whiting, winemaker at Red Newt Cellars: How would the wines made from Sawmill Creek in 2010 show, side-by-side, in a tasting featuring many of the producers who use this fruit?

Surely there would be some similarities. The hand of man can not fully obscure nature, nor would these winemakers wish to do so. But it's also true that they employ different methods in making wine from this same fruit. So a group of winemakers convened at the Hector Wine Company for a comparative event.

2010: "A spectacular growing season"

The length and warmth of the 2010 growing season produced tremendous potential in red wines in particular, but seeking out nuance and difference was a challenge for the winemakers.

"The 2010 had great quality across the board, with concentration, color and varietal strength," said Tim Moore, winemaker at Inspire Moore Winery on Canandaigua Lake.

At Rooster Hill on Keuka Lake, winemaker Barry Tortolon finds 2010 to offer a spectacular vintage without becoming overripe. "I did not have any over-the-top sugar levels but overall ripeness was the best I have seen in a long, long time," Tortolon said. "Even at at this early stage in their lives the reds are already showing good."

"We are going to see some phenomenal reds from the 2010 vintage," said Phil Arras, assistant winemaker at Damiani Wine Cellars. He pointed to the tannic structure and clear, powerful fruit already present in the wines.

But Arras added, "At this point in the life of a red, they are in a very reductive and closed down state, and it's hard to pick up on a lot of subtle differences. To say that some had brighter or bigger fruit than others would be a bit misleading at this point, since many are in a very closed and tight state."

There was, however, one clear difference that was impossible to miss.

Oak stands out in 2010 reds

"For the reds the most obvious differences seemed to be the use and type of oak," Arras said, echoing a common sentiment among the winemakers who attended.

"I must say that winemaking methodology has a big impression on outcome, especially on red wine production," Moore explained.

Finger Lakes winemakers use a wide range of oak, from new to neutral or old, and from American to Hungarian to the most expensive, French. Some winemakers described the sweet or smoky notes of oak's influence on many of the reds. All expressed optimism that with time, those components will weave together with the fruit to offer bold, balanced wines.

"I'd really love to do the same tasting again in about three or four years, when the 2010ss have been in the bottle for a few years and we can really see the differences in the finished products," Arras said. Indeed, the group made plans to hold this kind of tasting on a regular basis to evaluate the differences.

Going a step farther, Moore explained, "The group talked about making some universal lots next year to evaluate the terroir of Sawmill Creek Vineyard."

Optimism over white wines, too

Tortolon praised the chardonnay and sauvignon blanc from Sawmill Creek, while others are already eager to see the development of riesling. Tim Moore announced plans to create Inspire Moore's first-ever Reserve wines with the 2010 vintage.

Tina Hazlitt, Sawmill Creek's office manager who helped coordinate the event, said there was a lot to learn for the growers, too.

"We feel more connected to the wines and winemakers after events like this," she said. "It's so interesting to see how each brings their own approach. And these are relatively young winemakers who obviously want to learn as much as they can. We think they're doing wonderful things with Sawmill Creek fruit."

Hazlitt also said that Sawmill Creek's goal is to eventually work with only about a dozen wine producers in the region, which would further strengthen the growers' connection to the wines. She envisions signs on each block of vines, explaining which Finger Lakes winery will use the fruit. "That would make us proud," she said.

There will be a lot more to learn when this group reconvenes in a year, or three years, or five years. But this first event shows the spirit of exploration and inquiry that any wine region needs to become truly successful.