New York Cork Report

Shmaltz Hop Manna

By Julia Burke, Beer Editor

Selecting a beer called “Hop Manna” is about as close as I’ve come in years to celebrating Passover/Easter, but it had been too long since I’d had a Shmaltz Brewing Company (Saratoga Springs, NY, and San Francisco) brew and I was feeling particularly like a chosen person.

Hop Manna is a new IPA brewed with Citra, Warrior, Cascade, Centennial, Amarillo, and Crystal hops and dry hopped with Centennial, Citra, and Cascade. It’s the brewery’s first single IPA, released last year in four test batches and in distribution for the first time this year.

It’s got a beautiful hop nose: fresh, with orange peel and tangerine notes and just a little bit of pine. I was expecting more of a potpourri-like dried-flower thing going on but it’s much more alive than that, and very enticing.

The midpalate is crisp and delicate; Citra hops are dominant but the whole sip experience is very restrained and pleasant. Wheat and Vienna malt are included in the malt profile and, I think, add to the light, delicate, smooth character of the palate. It’s only a touch sweet, just a drizzle of honey on this hop salad, and the finish is balanced and clean.

It did seem a little short but I found it to fill out as the beer warmed. 

Where this could have gone way over-the-top, it manages to be a very deft study in hop blending. It’s only 6.8% ABV and definitely not your sticky hop bomb, but it’s a really enjoyable spring ale and and a great pairing for a salad of roast vegetables, olives, and grilled potatoes. 

Producer: Shmaltz Brewing Company
Style: IPA
ABV: 6.8%
Stemware: 10 oz. goblet
Price: $8/22 oz.

(3.5 out of 5 | Very Good, Recommended to Outstanding and Delicious, Highly Recommended)

(Ratings Guide)

A Trip to the West Side (of Keuka Lake)

By Julia Burke, Beer Editor

Well, I’m once again the midst of my annual month-long break from alcohol –– but that doesn’t mean I can’t still enjoy a trip to Finger Lakes wine country.

In need of a road trip and eager to take advantage of Wednesday’s lovely weather, I hopped in the car and headed to Keuka Lake for a long overdue visit. (Note: to the tasting room servers’ credit, I didn’t get a single stare or snide comment when I asked for a spit bucket, which I’ve heard can be a problem at many wineries. I thus managed to taste responsibly and maintain my detox.)

My first stop was Hunt Country Vineyards, where I finally got to meet marketing/PR manager Andy Marshall in person after months (years?) of tweeting back and forth. I enjoyed several of the wines, including the semi-dry Pearl and Valvin Muscat, which showed the right floral notes and balance to make me start craving South Asian cuisine, and the nutty, spicy cream sherry, which begged for awesome after-dinner cheese and dried fruit. But most of all I enjoyed talking with Andy –– we’re like-minded on an amazing number of topics and I always love getting his thoughtful opinion –– while his gigantic Bernese mountain dog, Pax, sat on my feet. 

On Andy’s recommendation I enjoyed a massive vegan sandwich at Medley’s Cafe in Prattsburgh (for the first time in my life onlookers actually suggested that I “take pictures of it and post it somewhere” –– which of course I did) and then headed to Hammondsport for a visit to Heron Hill Winery. With the stunning view of Keuka Lake to keep me company I enjoyed several of the wines but, as always, it was this winery’s riesling lineup that blew me away.

I went home with a bottle of 2009 Ingle Vineyard Riesling, which at about 2.5 % RS balances the acidity of that cool vintage deftly and is just starting to throw out a little petrol. That bottle won’t last long in my fridge once this “detox” is done.

My next stop was Dr. Frank’s Vinifera Wine Cellars, and perhaps I’m out of the wine loop after the past year in the “office job” world, but I didn’t expect to see gruner veltliner on the list! I enjoyed its delicate minerality and appreciated seeing the variety in this region; I’ve always thought more people should try it in New York.

My server recommended the 2010 Pinot Gris next, and he didn’t steer me wrong –– it was full, earthy, woodsy, and a real change from the other whites I’d tried that day in its dry-but-ripe character. I don’t often find pinot gris I enjoy but I always want to taste it out of curiosity, and I had to buy a bottle of this one. 

Now that I have a more flexible work schedule I hope to make several trips to my neighboring wine regions this summer, but this was an inspiring start to the season. And I now have four fantastic Finger Lakes bottles to enjoy as soon as my teetotaling month is up... if I can wait that long!

 

Saranac White IPA

By Julia Burke, Beer Editor

You never know what’s going to shine in a blind tasting. That’s why it’s so important. Big-name beers from lauded breweries may actually be lackluster in a lineup, without the pomp and circumstance their fame would normally require, while lesser-known or less respected breweries may surprise and force the drinker to reconsider relegating it to “party beer” status. The latter is exactly what happened the first time I tried Saranac’s new white IPA.

I was blind-tasting Belgian styles with a group of experienced tasters, and after several samples that turned out to be from Ommegang, Dupont, and Lindeman’s we were served a delightfully refreshing, deliciously hoppy lighter ale with soft coriander notes and a surprisingly bitter finish. We tried to guess the brewery. It had to be Belgian, or at least a legitimately Belgian-inspired brewery, we agreed. Another agreement: we’d drink it all day. 

This fine summer brew, holding its own among the top names in Belgian beer, turned out to be a limited  release white IPA from Saranac. Ubiquitous in my area and a staple at parties all over the state, Saranac has its standbys and its misses amid myriad styles and special releases, but this is the first of their beers I’ve tried that I would truly recommend for hopheads. Furthermore, it’s the first of their beers that I’ve tried and then promptly purchased, to crack on the front porch in the unseasonably warm weather and sip in pure beer bliss. My friends, recruited to taste and opine, agreed wholeheartedly. 

What’s in it? Wheat and oats for a creamy, floral malt bill. The hop is Citra, a winner in this style for its fierce bitterness and gorgeous orange and tangerine notes. The color is a cloudy, peachy tangerine; a one-finger head and pretty lacing suit the style and the summery weather. It’s a burst of fruit and delicate malts before a mouthwatering hop finish, and after a weekend of enjoying it I can confirm that this is truly a beer to “drink all day”––but unlike many such beers, you'll actually notice its pleasant flavors sip after sip.

Consider me surprised, pleased, and thirsty for another.

Producer: Saranac by Matt Brewing Company
Style: Belgian white/IPA
ABV: 6%
Stemware: pint glass
Price: $10/sixpack

(3 out of 5, Very good/Recommended)

(Ratings Guide)

At Gene McCarthy’s, a Local Irish Pub Gets a Beery Makeover

By Julia Burke, Beer Editor

A very old Irish pub in a very old part of Buffalo is getting a fresh start and a bright future thanks to a group of local-obsessed craft beer freaks.

Gene McCarthy’s, located in Buffalo’s historic Old First Ward, has long been a cozy setting with a surprisingly sophisticated tap list thanks to the influence of its neighbor, the world headquarters of the Brewing News publications. Now, Brewing News founder and owner Bill Metzger is teaming up with passionate locavore and brewer Willard Brooks; general manager David Bittner, an avid gardener and brewer; and Matt Conron, former head of Buffalo’s Breckenridge Brewery, to turn the old-world pub into a craft beer haven with an emphasis on New York beer and locally sourced food. The owners plan to bring the region’s farm bounty to cozy Irish pub fare, beginning with classic rustic dishes and eventually adding more bistro-type dishes. 

“We want to have the food mindset of a wine bar, but with beer,” explains Brooks, whose background in the San Francisco Bay Area informs his love of locally minded bistros and bars with small plates and fun pairings. He hopes to incorporate Niagara wine into the bar’s list and eventually host the occasional wine event as well. 

Beer will be front and center, however; Gene McCarthy’s already hosts a once-monthly Better Beverage Society brewery tasting, and those events will not only continue but expand to lesser-known breweries and more rare beers.

Most exciting, the owners will also incorporate a small brewery––a venture guaranteed to make a splash in a town with precious little locally-made beer for all its enthusiastic drinkers. The brewers hope to have their own beer flowing this fall; they plan to feature an aggressively hopped IPA––no surprise given the owners’ hophead reputations. Brooks adds, “We will also delve into pale ales and riff on different hops as our take on exploring the terroir of hops.” Brooks has connected with Rich and Bree Woodbridge of McCollum Orchards, Niagara’s newest hop farm, to begin plans for a fresh-hop beer featuring their hops. Dave, Matt, and Willard will brew the beer together.

Follow the pub’s new journey on Twitter, on Facebook, and at genemccarthys.com. And stop in and say hi, if you’re in town––yours truly will be bartending a few nights a week!

 

The "Beers of the Year Finalists" That Didn't Win... That We Loved

By Julia Burke, Beer Editor

The best and worst aspect of our "Beers of the Year" program is the difficulty of choosing a favorite; while we agreed on Krysztoff, and Mark Tichenor has plenty more to tell you about that particular Baltic porter (look for his post next week), several beers caught the crew’s attention in a big way.

I highly encourage NYCR readers to try all of the finalists if they haven’t already. 

The first time I had Ithaca Beer Company's Brute I found it truly staggering. I had just begun exploring sour beers and this one was a pucker-inducer of epic proportions — a real surprise from the brewery I knew as the mother of Flower Power IPA. Somehow I couldn’t stop drinking it. That was two years ago. Brute became a regular item on my see-it-and-grab-it list, and it seemed to get better every time I tried it.

This year I picked up four bottles at the brewery during an autumn trip. When I cracked one open to introduce to a first-timer, I knew instantly it was brewer Jeff O’Neil’s (now of Peekskill Brewpub) best yet. The Brett pucker is still there, but the bready Champagne yeasts character and soft, pillowy malt bill (barley, wheat, and corn) are singing right in harmony for a beer that’s so balanced and luscious it drinks more like a great dry riesling than a tongue scraper. This is absolutely one of my favorite sours in the world and a true achievement. The acid hounds at the table, like me, Lenn, and Bryan, could’ve downed a bottle of this; team members less accustomed to such prickle in their beers found it bracing and weren’t sure they could drink a glass.   

 The Cork Report team is a little more than half hophead, give or take, so I knew the two double IPAs at the table would be rock stars as well. I was correct, and the act of comparing Captain Lawrence Captain’s Reserve (the hometown IPA of my downstate friends) with Southern Tier 2X (my own beloved local favorite) was intense. Captain’s Reserve had its claws out, with fierce hop bitterness but a controlled and drinkable intensity; 2X showed sweet and sultry even though the Captain has it by 1% ABV in the booze department. In a style category that often amounts to hop swordfighting, these beers showed power and ferocity and had the hopheads among use drooling with pleasure. 

Also showing beautifully was Brooklyn Brewery’s Brooklyner-Schneider Hopfen Weisse. This gorgeous collaboration between Schneider brewmaster Hans-Peter Drexler and Brooklyn’s Garrett Oliver, in which each brewer made a hoppy weissbock in the other’s brewery, shows incredible layers of citrus, yeast character, and beautiful Amarillo and Palisade hops — a marriage of exceptional old-world brewing skill and good old American hop character. This beer is truly a joy to drink; it kicked off the tasting and I think some of the team members were reluctant to move on to the next finalist. 

I’m thrilled for the chance to taste with such a diverse crew: while our backgrounds, day jobs, tastes, and experiences may differ, our passion for great artisan beverages brings us together. It’s a great exercise to taste your favorites with such a mixed group, and because I believe it’s the mark of a great beer to occasionally be able to win over converts, it’s an important practice too. 

2011 Beer of the Year: Custom Brewcrafters Krysztoff Baltic Porter

By Julia Burke, Beer Editor

On behalf of the New York Cork Report I’m proud to announce our 2011 Beer of the Year: Custom Brewcrafters Signature Series Krysztoff Baltic Porter.

We’ll have more commentary on this amazing beer, and on other beers that impressed the entire crew, in the next few days, but at this time I would like to congratulate Bruce Lish and his team on a simply fantastic accomplishment. I’d also like to congratulate all the incredibly skilled New York brewers who created this lineup of finalists.

I think I can speak for all Wines/Beers of the Year attendees when I say that tasting these finalists was an unforgettable experience. The discussion around the table as we sipped and compared two flights was a joy for me; to have such a variety and such a high level of quality, from all over the state and from brewers of widely diverse backgrounds, was a treat and a mind-blowing example of how much progress our state’s beer culture has made.

Stay tuned for more on the Beers of the Year, but for now, I raise a glass to the Custom Brewcrafters brewing team on crafting the most exciting beer we tasted this year.

Flying Bison Brewing Brindle Porter

By Julia Burke, Beer Editor

A good porter feels like your favorite pair of jeans. It just fits — your tastes, the meal, the moment. I’m constantly in search of the perfect porter. It’s one of my favorite styles not least because brewing it correctly requires skillful composition and, I would argue, a sense of honor for the style’s history of comforting and sustaining the Industrial Revolution workforce.

Flying Bison Brewing has produced such a beer.

Brindle Porter, a limited release inspired by the classic English porter, pours a deep brown color with a one-finger head and wide, faint lacing. Hints of coffee, chocolate, and toffee come forth on the nose.

I was struck by the amazing balance of the mouthfeel. Overroasting is something I always notice and never appreciate, and this beer strikes just the right note, with subtle roasted English chocolate malt and a mellow, seriously smooth flavor profile that lingers. A kiss of Kent Goldings hops gives it just enough zip on the finish. The weight is excellent, just what a porter should be — hefty enough to stick to the ribs but crisp and comfortable enough to drink all night. I sucked down two in the time it took me to take these notes.

This is my new favorite Flying Bison product, hands down, and one of my favorite porters. I truly hope it becomes a regular part of the brewery’s lineup.

Producer: Flying Bison Brewing Company
Style: English porter
ABV: 5.6%
Stemware: pint glass
Price: $4/draught pint

 

 

(3 out of 5, Very good/Recommended)

(Ratings Guide)

Sixpoint Craft Ales Diesel

By Julia Burke, Beer Editor

A good winter stout in a can. I dig it -- great packaging and I have to admit I like the visual and tactile experience of popping a can of stout.

Diesel looks scrumptious in the glass: an eponymous black and pours a nice one-finger head with beautiful lacing. Like many stouts, this beer needs to warm up to cellar temperature to before any of its wonderful flavors wake up.

After a few minutes, rich malty aromas of toffee, coffee, and licorice emerge, making for a welcoming, sumptuous nose suggesting a winter ale; the palate, however, shows just a flash of sweet maltiness before the cold shower of a substantial hop profile.

There's a little bitterness from the roast, too, making for more than enough zip to balance out that hint of sweetness. Diesel's only 6.3% ABV but feels a little boozier, likely due to the rich malt character.

This is a punchy, interesting winter brew, with a deceptively malty nose but a surprisingly hoppy finish. I'd like to see it paired with big ole porterhouse, my beef-and-not-Guinness stew, or an aged Gouda.

Producer: Sixpoint Craft Ales
Style: American Stout
ABV: 6.3%
Sample Size: 16 oz. can
Stemware: 12-oz wide-mouthed goblet
Price: $2.50/can

 

(3 out of 5, Very good/Recommended)

(Ratings Guide)

Niagara Gets a Little Hoppier

By Julia Burke, Beer Editor

There are some exciting new vines in Niagara County –– well, make that bines. Rich and Bree Woodbridge, a charming and passionate young couple well-equipped for Niagara with a sense of adventure and a lot of heart, took a leap of faith when they moved to Lockport from California (after working in economic development in India) in March of this year to revitalize Rich's family's sixth-generation farmhouse.

McCollum Orchards is a hundred-acre farm dating back to the 1820s, and while it's wonderful land for apples and other produce, the Woodbridges have something special in mind for the property.

"Hops take off like crazy here!" says Rich. "There's two hundred years of farming here; the soils aren't depleted. We want to be part of the community and we want to engage it."

As of now they've tried small amounts (about a quarter-acre total) of several varieties to see what grows best and have found success with Cascade, Centennial, Nugget, and Fuggles.Rich says his Golding hops have struggled but he may replace them with Chinook and Magnum hops.

Rich explains that before Prohibition, New York was the number-one hop-producing state in the country. But the combination of a fungus outbreak, growing market pressure due to the large number of suppliers, and finally Prohibition itself destroyed that industry. Now, only fifty acres of hops are in cultivation in the Northeast as a whole as opposed to 30,000 acres in the Pacific Northwest.

But renewed interest in hop production in the Northeast and especially in New York state is fueling excitement: the Woodbridges recently attended the Hop Growers Conference and Northeast Hop Alliance (NEHA) annual meeting in Troy, New York, and found the atmosphere motivating: 180 attendees, of whom half were potential growers and the rest were starting breweries, met to exchange ideas, samples, and strategies to grow New York and the region's hop industry once again.

Our state's location, in fact, presents some unique advantages.In addition to Niagara's well-drained and hop-friendly soils (see "A Hop Farmer Emerges on the Niagara Escarpment" on this site), Rich explains that while on the West Coast hop farming is all about consistency to appease large producers, the East Coast has the chance to make a name for itself with hops that show vintage variability in the form of fluctuating alpha levels and a wide palette of possible flavors. While large, macro-producers might not want that, small beer artisans, they believe, would appreciate this unique way to showcase a sense of place. "We could be number one in certain varities: Chinook, Cascade, Centennial," Rich believes.

They plan to open for business selling their hops in the summer of 2012. In the meantime, they've been documenting every step of their journey on an amazingly detailed and fun-to-read blog. I'll be keeping an eye on McCollum Orchards as they grow, so watch for updates.

Southampton Publick House Double White

By Julia Burke, Beer Editor

Long Island brewery Southampton Publick House has arrived in western New York and I can't think of a nicer way to ring in the holidays than with this consistently impressive brewery's lineup of interesting and varied styles.

Double White pours a glowing sunrise-haze gold color and shows a brief one-finger head and beautiful bubbles. A clean, crisp nose with only a subtle whiff of cardamom and lemon and just a little bit of clementine give way as it opens to bready wheat character and citrusy Belgian yeast esters.

The mouthfeel is excellent --smooth, bready, just a touch sweet, and perfectly carbonated. Balance all around, especially in the alcohol department (as a "double" it's 6.6%, spot on for the level of complexity and perfectly integrated) makes this a great food match. 

I've been on a crazy Chinese cooking kick lately and the pairing with pork fried rice or homemade steamed dumplings is fantastic. It's also, like many Southampton beers, a dynamite cheese pairing. This incredibly refreshing white is like a frigid-but sunny winter day: brisk and bracing and just the right thing to beat the blues of dwindling daylight hours. 

Producer: Southampton Publick House
Style: Belgian witbier
ABV: 6.6%
Sample size: 12 oz. bottle
Stemware: V-pint glass
Price: $10/six pack

(3.5 out of 5 | Very Good, Recommended to Outstanding and Delicious, Highly Recommended)

Your Ultimate Guide to Pairing Beer and Cheese

By Julia Burke, Beer Editor and Aaron Estes, Cheese Editor

Some say the best match for cheese is wine. We say those people are probably the ones who thought Buttercup should’ve stuck with Prince Humperdinck in The Princess Bride.

Beer and cheese is where it’s at, folks and with the holidays approaching, you may want to treat your guests and family to this killer combination. But pairing is always a challenge, and you may be asking yourselves, “But doesn’t all beer go with all cheese? Aren’t they both delicious and snackable? Why should I care about specific pairings?”

As your friendly Cork Report beer and cheese editors, we are here to demonstrate the awesome power of a fantastic beer and cheese match with a list of must-try ideas. Julia’s well versed in the classic beer and cheese matchups, but with Aaron’s off-the-hook cheese expertise are are also able to suggest more adventurous matches too. Of course, we list New York examples of all beers and mostly New York cheeses, though we did include a few out-of-state cheeses for educational purposes and diversity’s sake.

For starters, a little pairing 101. Much like with any craft beverage and food pairing, there are a few guidelines to learn and then break as you see fit. The key principle, balance, is a cinch here: beer has plenty of acidity thanks to those glorious hops and that refreshing carbonation; in addition it may have a little sweetness, a lot, or almost none depending on the malt bill, alcohol content, and additives if any (such as fruit or chocolate). These qualities balance it beautifully with the rich and creamy taste of cheese; fine-tuning the pairing just means considering the next two factors -- texture and flavor profile.

Texture and mouthfeel are all about the feel and body of your beer and cheese. The sharp bitter roast of a stout or the fierce pucker of many Belgian-style sours and Bretted beers will cut right through an incredibly buttery, creamy cheese, while a diacetyl-heavy or oaked beer might be too much.

Finally, specific flavors can be the difference between a good and a great pairing. While hops impart citrusy, piney, or even resiny notes, malt produces flavors like chocolate, peanut butter, and licorice. Extras like roast, oak aging, fruit, and additives like juniper and spices are often some of the most potent characteristics of a beer.

Yeast imparts a flavor that can range from bubblegum-fruity to musky, funky, and sour, and it makes for some of the most amazing beer and cheese combos. If you’re stuck in a rut with beer or cheese it’s time to experiment with some of the crazier flavors out there. Check out our ideas, then try some of your own!

Beer Style: India Pale Ale (IPA)

This beloved style combines hop bitterness and citrusy fruit with moderate to substantial alcohol and subtle malt. We love Ithaca Beer Company's Flower Power, Sixpoint Bengali, and Captain Lawrence IPA. IPAs are known to love an aged cheddar cheese like Montgomery Cheddar to coat the palate and cut that bitterness. Aaron, a hop hound, recently had Bengali Tiger with a funky English cheddar (Keen’s Cheddar to be exact) and declares it a brilliant pairing.

Beer Style: Chocolate Stout

Rich and roasty and no slouch in the alcohol department, chocolate stouts and cheese make a great dessert. We like Brooklyn Brewery's Chocolate Stout and Southern Tier Choklat. Julia loves a smoky chocolate stout with an equally smoked gouda or a light manchego, a nutty Spanish cheese. Aaron occasionally likes a triple cream with a chocolaty stout. “Doesn't always work, but very nice indeed” when it does, he says.

During the Holidays last year, Aaron paired Mt. Tam (A triple cream from Cowgirl Creamery in California) with an Imperial Stout from Kansas City’s Boulevard Brewery. The pairing was just fantastic. Chocolate and cream all rolled into one.

Beer Style: Winter Seasonal

Try Saranac Big Moose Ale, Flying Bison Blizzard Bock, or Captain Lawrence Nor'Easter. As Aaron points out, this style depends heavily on the spice level: anything heavy on orange peel or coriander, and he would say a blue cheese works best. You definitely need a cheese that has some bite to it. Anything mild or delicate will fade into the background. For maltier and less spicy styles, Julia likes a bacon smoked gouda or other heartier smoked cheese to go with meats.

Beer Style: Saison or Belgian Pale

This style has exploded in New York recently; we love Ommegang BPA, Three Heads Ontario Coast, Southampton Saison, and Ommegang Hennepin. Aaron loves Hennepin with most cheeses, as it’s versatile enough to stand up to just about anything. Julia's favorites are funky French styles like Port Salut or Chaume (Warning: open this cheese and you will not be socially acceptable for the rest of the evening. Open it alone or with a long-term partner only.)

Beer Style: Sour Beers

Pucker up: sours are absolutely amazing with a wide variety of cheeses. Ithaca Beer Company is the New York sour master, with classics Brute and Le Bleu; we also love Southampton Cuvee des Fleurs. Both Aaron and Julia love goat cheese with this style: they tried a fresh Catapano goat with Cuvee des Fleurs at last year's Wines/Beers of the Year and were in love.

Beer Style: Hefeweizen

Try Brooklyner Weisse, Butternuts Heinnieweisse, or Southern Tier Heavy Weizen for a New York take on this classic Old World style. A sexy beer in and of itself, this is a dream pairing for many cheeses. Julia loves Hefe with just about any cheese but especially loves it with goat cheese on toast points to accompany a light salad; a camembert or other delicate creamy cheese is also excellent.

Aaron likes a young cheddar; a mellow example is Mecox Bay Cheddar from Long Island. The cheddar from Mecox has a nice and easy finish that really highlights the yeasty qualities of this style. He also recommends Three Corner Field Farm sheep’s milk cheese.  A fresh button of “Brebis Blanche” and a cool wheat beer go hand-in-hand any day of the week.

Cellar Brews: Beer for Winemaking

By Julia Burke, Beer Editor

I'd venture to say many of you are winemakers. I'd venture to say many others are home winemakers. And a fair number of you have undoubtedly spent some time in a cellar. So you're all too familiar with the necessity of beer during the winemaking process: to celebrate at the end of a long night of crushing; to sip while filtering (this may just be an intern thing); to enjoy in the lab while figuring out the next day's picking schedule; or just to cleanse the palate after hours of bench trials.

Beer's vivacious carbonation, pointed hop character, and sweet malt body just hit the spot on a wine-fatigued palate, and whether you're doing punchdowns in your kitchen or on a forty-thousand-liter tank, it makes a hard day's work all the more worthwhile. I thought I'd celebrate the end of the 2011 harvest with a survey of the best beers to chug while foot stomping, tote lugging, and cap punching.

Southern Tier Harvest Ale: a hop lover's harvest ale that cuts through palate fatigue like a knife

Perfect for: an end to a day of tasting barrel samples for bench trials

Butternuts Moo Thunder: a comfort-food milk stout that's as easy-drinking as chocolate milk and sticks to your ribs

Perfect for: waiting for grapes to come in in sub-40 weather

Ithaca Flower Power: a classic IPA for cool-climate winemakers with a taste for acidity

Perfect for: pressing must in your kitchen with a cheesecloth, a funnel, and a cut-up milk jug

Flying Bison Blizzard Bock: a chewy and sweet German-style winter seasonal 

Perfect for: refreshment after shoveling grapes into a crusher under the stars

Horseheads Chemung Canal Towpath Ale: an insanely drinkable cream ale

Perfect for: a post-punchdown refresher to be consumed at sunset in the vineyard

Southampton Abbot 12: a sensational Belgian quadrupel

Perfect for: an end-of-the-night treat to ease the pain of sore muscles and a wiped-out brain

Here's to a wild and wacky vintage, and New York beer's noble role in it. 

Southern Tier 2XIPA

By Julia Burke, Beer Editor

When beer enthusiasts rate a beer, they often talk about balance. Technical correctness. Drinkability. Good integration of flavors. Nothing out of place or over-the top.

When hopheads rate a beer, they want one thing. Dank, sticky, resiny, more-bitter-than-a-tongue-scraper hops. Lupulin junkies don't necessarily want a "balanced" or "sessionable" brew. When the Brits learned that they could use hops as a preservative when shipping beer to the troops in India, the India Pale Ale was born. When the San Diegoans learned that they could take that idea and crank up the hop bill and alcohol past any semblance of politeness, the modern West Coast IPA gave birth to an entire beer subculture of drinkers focused on one thing.

For all my appreciation of the many wonderful beer styles out there, I'm one of these freaks -- and when I reach for an IPA, I want the hops to sing to me. When I reach for a double IPA, I want them to wack me over the head with a club and drag me back to their cave. Southern Tier Double IPA is just such a beer.

This hophead's dream, made by the masters of the hoppy and high-gravity at Southern Tier Brewing Company, is gold and glowing with lovely lacing and beautiful stratification. There's a tidal wave of floral, grapefruity, piney hops on the nose and a note of sweetness that hints at its 8.2% ABV but complements rather than overwhelms the citrusy acidity.

The mouthfeel packs a wallop: enormous hop character, big, robust malts to put some muscle behind the spikes, and a crazy-good finish that makes me wonder what a hop resin bubble bath might feel like. (For the curious: they do make shampoo with hop resin. It's lovely.)

This was a Beer of the Year last year, and when I saw the faces of a few of my fellow NYCR writers as they sipped this hop bomb, I could tell I wasn't alone in my appreciation of a downright lusty hop experience. Will a few of these knock you off your feet like a wrecking ball? Yes. Will you love it? That depends on you. But the hopheads out there know exactly what I'm talking about, and friends, this beer was made for us.

Producer: Southern Tier Brewing Company
ABV: 8.2%
Sample Size: 12 oz. bottle
Stemware: Pint glass
Price: $12/sixpack

 

(4 out of 5 | Outstanding and Delicious, Highly Recommended)

 

(*Ratings Guide)

Three Heads Brewing Bromigo

By Julia Burke, Beer Editor

Three Heads Brewing is on a roll lately with new releases, and Bromigo, their very first fall seasonal offering, is an interesting foray into flavorings: it's a smoked maple amber brewed with maple syrup.

The nose is wonderfully complex for a fall seasonal -- sweet and smokey, with full and thick maple notes backed up by toffee and vanilla and a firm roast. There's no aggressive alcohol to speak of, just the rich scents of a woodsy fall flannel-wearing, maple-syrup-tapping party. 

Bready malts and roast dominate the palate. It's not a thick beer, for the lushness of the nose; instead it's more roast and smoke and an exceptionally dry finish that lasts long but could almost use a little more body.

It's a nice change, though, from the sweetness of many fall styles, and it's certainly a sessionable version of a "smoked maple" brew at a well-incorporated 7% ABV.

I admire the deft subtlety of the rather in-your-face ingredients used, but I found myself wanting just a little bit more of a malt bill; that said, this would shine with a steak or venison on the grill.

Is it hunting season yet?

Producer: Three Heads Brewing (via Custom Brewcrafters) 
ABV: 7% 
Sample Size: 16 oz. bottle 
Stemware: 16 oz. V-glass 
Price: $6.99 

(3 out of 5, Very good/Recommended)

(*Ratings Guide)

 

Jeff O'Neil to Join Peekskill Brewing Company

By Julia Burke, Beer Editor

Award-winning brewer Jeff "Chief" O'Neil (pictured right) has announced that he is ending his nine-year tenure at Ithaca Beer Company to join The Peekskill Brewery as brewmaster, effective November 1.

As Ithaca's brewmaster, O'Neil brought the Finger Lakes brewery national recognition with awards at the Great American Beer Festival and other  major events; thanks to his fierce skills and flair for innovation, honed at the Siebel Institute of Technology, such Ithaca offerings as Flower Power IPA and the Excelsior! Line (most notably Brute, a 2010 NYCR Beers of the Year finalist) have become sought-after gems throughout the northeast and beyond.

His Flower Power IPA is widely held to be one of the finest of the style east of the Mississipi and is beloved by hopheads everywhere.

As Ithaca Beer Company expands, O'Neil welcomes the exciting challenge of a tiny brewpub setting. “I’m moving away from a bigger production model for this awesome opportunity to get really creative and have an intimate connection with those drinking the beer," said O'Neil in a statement in a Peekskill Brewery press release. "This is a smaller project but it’s still accessible because of the close proximity to New York City. I’m thrilled for the chance to work with the Berardis and Chef Sean Corcoran, and everyone should expect amazing things to come from Peekskill from here on out. As my idol Steve Martin once said, ‘Let’s get small.’”

O'Neil encourages his supporters and fans to come visit the Hudson Valley brewpub, which focuses on small-batch brews paired with seasonal, locally sourced American pub cuisine. Stay tuned for a more detailed report on O'Neil and the future of Peekskill in the coming weeks, but for now, the NYCR wishes O'Neil all the best on his new adventure.

Horseheads Brewing Company Brings the Heat

By Julia Burke, Beer Editor

Little Horseheads Brewing, located an hour from Ithaca in beautiful Horseheads, New York, might be the state's hottest brewery -- literally.

I made a visit for the first time last week after drooling for months over tales from my festival-going beer friends about an enigmatic “chili pepper beer” that was so balanced, so smooth, and yet so spicy it could please both session drinkers and spice fiends like myself. A sample at the charming brewery showed off Horseheads's brewing prowess, especially since it was just one of several oustanding beers on tap.

The brewery’s low-key and comfortable tasting room, complete with homebrewing supplies, was packed with a respectable Sunday crowd of growler-filling locals. The list of area bars and restaurants selling Horseheads products clearly demonstrates the brewery’s considerable following in the region.

As I tasted through a flight of balanced, high-quality brews, I was particularly impressed with brewer and owner Ed Samchisen’s even-handedness with styles that are too often polarizing for their extreme flavors. The pumpkin ale was slightly sweet and chewy with a cinnamon twang and orange peel notes -- pleasantly complex rather than a one-trick pony. Black Horse Ale, the brewery’s black IPA, was another surprise; with its smooth, sessionable hop character and delicate malts -- I never would have guessed it to be a double IPA.

Then I got to “Hot-Jala-Heim,” the chili pepper beer, and my socks were rocked. It’s brewed with a blend of chili peppers including jalapenos and anaheims -- hence the name -- explained our friendly server, Jeremy.

What amazed me was the slow burn of spice from nose all the way to the long, long finish; not once does the spice character become overwhelming. The clean, garden-fresh pepper character lingers for minutes with just enough kick to keep it refreshing through and through.

Lest you chalk my adoration up to my spice-addict tendencies, it’s worth noting my friend’s observation: “I’m not a huge spice fan, and I love this.” I brought home a growler.

I can’t imagine a better brewery for the beautiful camping heaven that is the Southern Tier; these beers are perfect for sipping with friends over a bonfire or after a hike. Expect to hear more from Horseheads. In this picturesque little nook in the middle of the state, they’re making some pretty hot stuff.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpFdAFOFCoI

Views from a Southern Finger Lakes Beer Adventure

By Julia Burke, Beer Editor

Over the weekend I headed to the southern Finger Lakes area to visit friends; as always, the trip was essentially a beer pilgrimage. Though I came seeking the enigmatic Ithaca Beer Company Brute (it was back on the tasting room shelves for a short time only; stay tuned for a formal review), I also got a chance to visit with brewer Jeff O'Neil and check out the beginnings of Ithaca's expansion to a larger facility. Naturally, I also stocked up on Flower Power, and my friend's sister, a breastfeeding mom, appreciated Ithaca's scrumptious root beer.

Tales of the excellence of Horseheads Brewing had reached my ears after this spring's Tap NY festival, so I had to make a stop at the tasting room. I was exceedingly impressed. Look for a piece on the Horseheads brews I tasted later this week, but for now, suffice it to say I've met my chili-pepper-beer match.

A sample of Towpath ale at Horseheads Brewing Company

 

Jeremy Gulich fills growlers on a busy Sunday at Horseheads

 

A beautiful day in Ithaca

 

The Ithaca tasting room bar

 

Ithaca brewmaster Jeff O'Neil explains the expansion plan, fresh pint of Flower Power in hand

 

Plans for Ithaca's new brewery on the walls of the current tasting room

 

Ithaca's sexy new bottling line

 

The Holy Grail

All Hail the (Southern Tier Brewing Company) PumKing

By Julia Burke, Beer Editor

Conversations about pumpkin ale can be testy. Some can’t get enough of the style and will try every pumpkin ale on the market; some think it’s an overly spiced or sickly-sweet abomination among fall seasonals. Whatever the direction of the debate, the mention of one beer’s name is enough to silence critics and humble wannabes. “But what about PumKing?” somebody says, and the controversy is over.

Southern Tier Brewing Company PumKing has single-pintedly done what precious few beers can: it has taken on a style -- one that’s at best a niche market and at worst the unwanted awkward kid at the seasonal beer lunch table -- and elevated that style to greatness.

PumKing is the “Imperial Pumpkin Ale” that pumpkin ale haters will drink, and grinning jack o’lantern of glory that makes other pumpkin ales weep with envy.

What makes it the King? Hefty alcohol and a serious hop wallop, along with real pureed pumpkin so rich each sip tastes like inhaling Grandma’s pumpkin pie, makes this brew succeed where so many others fail: on the mid-palate and finish.

Pumpkin pie spices smell good, so it’s easy to make a pumpkin ale with a good nose: throw in a little cinnamon, clove, allspice and nutmeg flavor, and you’ve got a nice fall beer aroma. The problem with so many is a thin or watery mid-palate that just doesn’t satisfy like a mouthful of chewy pumpkin bread, pumpkin pie or pumpkin cookie. PumKing, however, is the dessert of fall beers. Since the very first batch in 2007, the PumKing recipe has changed only slightly each year, says brewery graphics and media director Nathan Arnone. “We think this year is the best batch so far and we'll likely keep it for next year.”

What’s the secret? Good luck replicating it -- the guarded recipe is a New York State treasure, after all. This year Southern Tier brewed over 4,000 bbl of PumKing; “Nearly all of it was sold to distributors before it was even made,” says Arnone. “We see on Facebook and Twitter how quickly stores and bars sell out of it. It's a highly anticipated seasonal product, to say the least. We're pleasantly surprised at the response we've had this year. Because so many people are interested in it, we expect varying reactions. But the overwhelming comments have been positive.”

PumKing’s beloved status in Southern Tier’s Western New York community is evinced by the lines of growler-carrying fans waiting to fill up when it’s tapped at local stores; the common worry is that it will be sold out long before Halloween at this rate. Fortunately, PumKing ages nicely -- the assertive Magnum and Sterling hop profile and 8.6 percent ABV ensure that it can mellow nicely for months, and maybe even years. A few friends and I will be experimenting this year with cellaring a few bottles to open next fall.

 

Beer and Beasts: An Ode to Pales, Pilsners and Meat

By Julia Burke, Beer Editor

Rochester’s Old Toad Pub took its legendary beer pairing dinner tradition to new levels of decadence on Wednesday with "Beer and Beasts," a dinner devoted to all manner of tasty animals cooked in all manner of tasty ways.

While many of Old Toad’s past dinners have featured high-alcohol monsters by breweries notorious for pushing limits -- breweries such as Mikkeller, Dogfish Head, and Brewdog -- this dinner was unique for its use of lighter and more delicate styles. Pilsners and pale ales don’t often get to shine in the beer world, but they’re arguably the best “food beers” around, and they made excellent matches for the complex and rich meat dishes featured at this event. From goat sausage to tongue sliders, this menagerie of muscles called for a serious lift of hops and carbonation without any oppressive heaviness or extremity of flavor.

Out of six featured beers, three hailed from our fair state, and two in particular were my top beers -- and pairings -- of the night. It’s great to see New York brews starring on such an exciting menu. Chef Charlotte Cox demonstrated once again her prowess for flavorful spins on the northern European passion for the creative carnivorism.

The first course was a cured smoked brisket with soy, mint, and sesame dressing paired with Sixpoint Craft Ales Sehr Crisp Pils. “Crisp” is perhaps not the most accurate descriptor for this beer, which I found to be more slick and buttery than a typical pilsner. But that texture likely made it a better match than a more standard example for the dish, which balanced smoky meat and delicate mint zing deftly. 

While I certainly wouldn’t kick the subsequent pineapple-glazed pork belly out of bed, the next dish featured one of my favorite beers lately: Ommegang Belgian Pale Ale with stuffed duck neck (pictured at the top of the post). The sheer size of the circles of duck neck warranted admiration; surely this was either a case of genetic modification experimentation gone wild or this duck died very, very well. Whatever the case, BPA belongs with the apricot and Stilton that graced the duck like Ingrid belonged with Bogey in Casablanca, and I found myself wondering less about the fate of the duck and more and more about how to get a larger beer sample during the slightly long wait between courses.

I can speak for most of my table when I declare one of the top dishes of the night to be the oxtail marmalade with duck egg paired with Three Heads Brewing Blimey. This English-style pale ale is tasting so good lately, I enjoyed a pint of it between courses even though I knew it would be on the menu.

The simple, balanced citrus fruit and malt notes popped alongside the sweet marmalade, and the chewy-yet-crisp texture was a perfect match for what was essentially the best open-faced sandwich ever. 

I left the dinner impressed all over again by what’s come out of New York this year; amidst all the hoppy, dark, roasty, and strong stuff that tends to grab the lion’s share of attention, pilsners and pales are too often forgotten; events like this are important reminders that often these styles are just what the doctor ordered. 

 

Custom Brewcrafters Signature Series: Krysztoff

By Julia Burke, Beer Editor

Baltic porter is a beer style with a little mystery. Made as dark as the North Sea and strong enough to withstand the journey across its treacherous waters during the Industrial Revolution, this style owes its lineage to both the milder English porter and the robust Russian Imperial stout. Traditionally done with lager yeast for a long, cold fermentation, this porter at its best is intense but smooth.

I often find Baltic porters a little too sweet and thick for my taste, but I can never turn down a great porter, so I’ve kept trying this sub-style hoping for one to change my mind.

On the nose, Custom Brewcrafters Krysztoff shows a firm but clean roast, with hints of African coffee and intense bittersweet chocolate. The palate shows a faint sweetness but nowhere near the syrupy consistency that normally hinders the style, instead showing roasty licorice-dark malts and powerful molasses-toffee complexity.

As the beer warms to temperature (it peaked at about 55 degrees) it blossoms. Any hint of the 10% ABV melts seamlessly into an experience that’s disarming but not palate-coating, each sip balanced and restrained enough to beg another but packed with enough flavor and complexity to warrant attention. It’s made with Magnum and Mount Hood hops, and they don’t show on their own so much as lift up the back-palate and finish — exactly as they should with this style.

The finish is outstanding: fantastic length that gave me the sensation of being slowly toasted over campfire coals like that perfect golden-brown and melty-on-the-inside marshmallow that takes several minutes but makes the perfect s’more. 

I haven’t mentioned the appearance of this beer. I don’t normally spend a lot of time on a beer’s looks (absent obvious flaws or problems), because to me all beer has an inherent sex appeal, but I need to mention the singular silhouette of this brew. In a V pilsner glass, it pours a blackish-brown so lightless it’s almost cobalt in color, with a ridiculously inviting mocha-foam one-finger head and beautiful lacing. Beautiful, enticing, with stylish delivery to boot, this is the most extraordinary effort I have tasted from CB brewmaster Bruce Lish, and my new favorite example of the style. I had this with German potato pancakes on a Sunday morning and it was outstanding, but I’d really like to see this with a smoked gouda or other smoky cheese.

Producer: Custom Brewcrafters
Style: Baltic Porter
Stemware: 16 oz. V pilsner glass, then snifter (I couldn’t resist the photo appeal, but this beer belongs in a snifter or wide goblet)
ABV: 10%
Price: $6.99

 

(Outstanding and Delicious, Highly Recommended to Extraordinary, Can't Recommend it More)

(*Ratings Guide)

NY On Tap: NYWCC Celebrates New York Beer

Julia Burke, Beer Editor

Harvest is on the minds of New York winemakers and wine lovers these days, but let's not forget the other best part of fall: it's the best season of the year for beer!

If you're looking for a sweet setting to try some new brews, the New York Wine and Culinary Center has announced a beer and food festival on September 30, from 7 to 10 p.m., called "NY On Tap." The event will feature beer from twenty New York breweries, paired with dishes by the NYWCC's executive chef and local food vendors, as well as live music. The small nature of the event allows brewers to consider bringing smaller-production products, says NYWCC Event Specialist Ryan Baldick "We are encouraging rare beers as well as cask-conditioned beers."

This event promises to be a great chance to get to know some of the state's great microbreweries and enjoy tasty pairings in the NYWCC's picturesque Canandaigua facility. "The demographic for the event is newbies as well as connoisseurs--we will have something for everyone!"Baldick said.

The breweries list includes such favorites as Shmaltz, Ithaca, and Ommegang as well as new up-and-comers Three Heads and Naked Dove.

I've consistently enjoyed the beer pairing suggestions on the NYWCC's always-interesting menu (I'm hoping someday they add a "B" to their acronym). This smaller, more intimate antidote to the massive beer fests of summer sounds like a great way to kick off the fall beer season.

Get the details on the NYWCC website.

Ithaca Beer Company Announces "Groundbreak" for New Facility

By Julia Burke, Beer Editor

Ithaca Beer Company will break ground today on the construction of a new brewery directly behind the current location on Route 13 in Ithaca, New York.

The new brewery will triple Ithaca Beer's current capacity; the brewery announces that it will have the capacity to brew and bottle half a million cases of beer, up from 180,000 this year.

Most exciting for visitors, the new facility will feature an expanded tasting room and a brewpub specializing in wood-fire pizzas -- an ideal pairing for Ithaca's dynamic, often-hoppy lineup.

An outdoor beer garden will allow visitors to enjoy Ithaca's beer and food amidst the "gorges" scenery of the Cayuga Lake area. Those who have visited the brewery in the past know that these changes will dramatically improve the experience of Ithaca Beer as an afternoon destination and hangout rather than just a tasting bar and store.

Marketing Director Allison Graffin said the production facility should be up and running by early spring, and the tasting room and brewpub by May 2012. We congratulate one of the top breweries in New York on this exciting sign of success, and look forward to tasting those pizzas with a pint of "Groundbreak" spring seasonal.

Ellicottville Brewing Company Black Hops

By Julia Burke, Beer Editor

A "dark pale ale" -- sure, why not? Ellicottville Brewing Company has a competent hand with sessionable, balanced, and tasty pale ales, so I had high hopes for this latest example of the dark-and-hoppy trend.

Black Hops is hoppy enough on the nose, with just a hint of roast to back it up, but overall the aromas are quite understated. It's an appropriate black walnut color in the glass with a one-finger head and some short-lived lacing.

On the palate, a reasonable balance of roasty dark malt and citrusy hops but no real body or brightness of flavor makes it a simply okay sipper: rather than wanting to keep sipping I found myself forgetting to.

Were I on a date with a human version of this beer I would have been shamelessly checking out other men the entire time.

Ellicottville's website describes this beer as "designed to get the job done!": not a particularly ambitious goal, and it shows. Why make a limited release in a trendy style designed to maximize flavor and then admittedly phone it in? It's not hoppy enough to put "hops" in the name and not malty or chewy enough for stout and porter drinkers; it's just rather bland. For a session beer I'd much prefer their Oktoberfest, nut brown, or standard pale.

Producer: Ellicottville Brewing Company
Style: Dark Pale Ale
Stemware: 12 oz. goblet
Sample size: 12 oz. from tap
Price: $4 pint
ABV: 6%

 

(2 out of 5, Average)

 

Southampton Publick House Cuvee des Fleurs

By Julia Burke, Beer Editor

There's something about starting a day with a great beer that perfectly combines laziness and sophistication. Last Saturday I had planned an epic beer bar bike tour of Buffalo and I wanted a breakfast of champions that would get me stoked for a day of biking but also prep my palate for a marathon of beer consumption.

I've already written about my obsession with beer waffles; now I think I've hit on one of the great pajama libations to pair. The hazy yellowish-gold sunrise color and pillowy white head of this unique Southampton Publick House bottle begs for a relaxing, sunny Sunday morning in bed.

Cuvee des Fleurs is exactly what it sounds like: a blend of flowers. It's flavored with lavender, chamomile, calendula, rose hips, and, as the label cheekily describes, "generous amounts of h. lupulus" (hops).

Why doesn't it reek of cheap perfume with a pungence typically reserved for middle aged ladies' book clubs? The key is restraint, freshness and delicacy: it's fragrant, but like something you'd toss into a garden salad, not like country club bathroom potpourri.

A complex yeast profile balances with a slight sour tang for a terrific mouthfeel that is creamy and multidimensional but so crisp it goes with a meal like orange juice with brunch. Rose petal notes and chamomile are most apparent, but the lavender is there in a waxy violet sheen, and the hops are assertive throughout.

The burst of flavor on sipping is simply beautiful and contains no greenness or cloying levels of herbaceousness.

It's incredibly interesting; there's so much going on that to the post-noon drinker it might seem too "busy" for early-morning drinking, but for beer geeks who want to pay attention to their breakfast beverage, it's fantastic. I highly recommend pairing with pancakes, waffles, or French toast with fruit and cream cheese or whipped cream. It would also be outstanding with a cheese and fruit pastry. Or a croque-monsieur. Or a crepe. I could go on. Just make sure to eat something, because for all its luscious ease of sippage, this baby is over 8% ABV, so you'll want some serious carbs in your system.

Producer: Southampton Brewing Company
Style: Saison
Stemware: 10 oz. goblet
Sample size: 750 ml bottle
Price: $12*
ABV: 8.2%

 

 

(*Ratings Guide)

Brewery Ommegang BPA (Belgian Pale Ale)

By Julia Burke, Beer Editor

In honor of the beloved upcoming beer festival Belgium Comes to Cooperstown, I decided to ease the pain of missing the event (not that I’m complaining—I’ll be in Asheville, NC, which is apparently the new beer Mecca of the eastern United States) with a Brewery Ommegang brew.

This “Belgian pale ale” sounded like a great idea, and boy, did the initial pour confirm that thought. A delightful, three-finger poufy head with impressive lacing and a brilliant orange with a hint of haze made this one classy-looking brew. Clean citrus dominates on the nose, rushing from the glass, with a touch of spice-and-clover yeast character and fresh-mowed-lawn hops.

The palate is well-carbonated and invitingly zesty, with lively acidity and a burst of tropical fruit. A taut, grassy hop presence, courtesy of Cascade dry-hopping, balances the sweetness of the fruit and the round, “bubbly” quality (I mean Tracy-Turnblad-from-Hairpsray bubbly rather than effervescent, though it’s plenty fizzy) of the vivaciously spicy yeast, and on the finish the components assemble into a delicious group hug.

What I like about this is the way the components balance one another. There’s enough here lupulin-wise for hopheads looking for a fix, a yummy and unmistakeable Belgian yeast character, and unwavering heights of citrusy sweetness.

Whether you’re craving the brewery’s classic Belgian flare or a hoptastic summer pale, on a summer night with some Port Salut cheese and wheat crackers, this hits the spot.

Producer: Brewery Ommegang
Style: Belgian Pale Ale
Stemware: 12 oz. Belgian goblet
Sample size: 12 oz. bottle
Price: $3
ABV: 6.2%
Score: A-