New York Cork Report

The New York Cork Report Tasting Table -- April 17, 2012

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

I keep trying to retire the "Tasting Table" series, but my recently chaotic day job along with the all-consuming reality of an infant and a 5-year old have once again reminded me that no matter how obsessed I am with local wines, beers etc. and this website -- it's still a hobby. Add to that the fact that we'll be cutting over to our new site design and platform soon (maybe even next week) and Tasting Table remains a valuable tool. I'd like to start things off at the new site fresh. Tasting Table will not be a part of the new NYCR, but it will be here. At least one more time.

As always, these are wines that crossed the NYCR tasting table at some point recently but for one reason or another, will not be reviewed in standalone posts. The notes are more or less straight from my notebook.

Atwater Estate Vineyards 2009 Riewurz ($18): Blend of 60% gewurzt, 40% riesling. Gingery nose with rose petals, grapefruit and lime. Medium-light body that starts out very gewurzt-y but finish is all riesling. Good balance, but lacks a bit of focus. Unique and tasty. Long finish of apple, peach and lime.

Atwater Estate Vineyards 2010 Dry Riesling ($16): Green apple, sweet lime and a little fennel frond on the nose. Feather light palate with more apple-lime flavors with notes of peach, fennel and slate. Good acidity and a dry finish that lingers gently.

Billsboro Winery 2010 Pinot Gris ($17): Grapefruit, citrus blossom and sweet apricot on a medium-light nose. Candied lemon leads the way with peach and light floral flavors beneath. Show a little of the RS (1.2%) on mid-palate but mostly dry on the finish. Good acidity but somewhat short finish.

Billsboro Winery 2010 Riesling ($16): Tangerine, grapefruit and pineapple on the nose. Grapefruit and orange peel flavors on the palate with slightly tropical hints. Shows RS (2.3%) but isn't cloying. Citrusy acidity brings balance. Somewhat showy style.

Grapes of Roth 2005 Merlot ($50): Nose of licorice, black cherry, leaf tobacco and pencil shavings/graphite. Ripe but not jammy, showing mixed cherry/cherry pit and tobacco flavors. Medium bodied with medium-intense tannins that are well integrated. Graphite/rocky finish that is long and shows a bit of dried herb as well.

Hudson-Chatham Winery 2010 Casscles Vineyard Reserve Baco Noir ($24): Sour cherry, cranberry, toasty oak, black pepper and vanilla on the nose. Medium body with lively acidity. Crunchy red fruit with black pepper and earth. Juice mid-palate but perhaps a bit short on the finish.

Hudson-Chatham Winery 2010 Field Stone Baco Noir ($30): Dark fruit -- black cherry and plum -- with mustard seed, violets and curry spice. Soft and lush with forward fruit, low tannins and just enough acidity. Plum, juicy and fruity. Long finish with subtle vanilla character.

Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars 2010 Round Rock Riesling ($20): Minerally, slate-y nose with hints of yellow apple, lemon balm and tonic water. Generous palate with solid focus. Citrus and herbs mingle with pear and light peach flavors. Light RS brings weight. A bit more acidity would elevate.

Millbrook Vineyards 2008 Cabernet Franc ($18): Plum, blackberry, vanilla, dried leaves and brown spices on the nose. Medium body with plum and blackberry fruit flavors. Medium tannins that are well incorporated. Finish is of medium length with a hint of toasted, slightly bitter oak.

Millbrook Vineyards 2010 Pinot Noir ($18): Nose of macerated strawberries, black cherry and button mushroom. Toasty, bitter oak a bit too heavy on top of dark, intense cherry flavors and big, dry tannins.

Millbrook Vineyards 2010 Tocai Friulano ($16): Clementines, persimmon, melon and peach aromas on a very fruity nose. Melange of peach, orange, lemon and pear on the palate. Fresh acidity that lingers. Simple and fruity, but also quite tasty.

Palaia Vineyards 2007 Traminette ($15): Very floral on the nose with slightly foxy aromas I don't usually find in traminette. One-note floral flavors with a bit of RS and not enough acidity. Ends up being soft and a bit watery on the finish.

Pindar Vineyards 2010 Viognier ($25): The nose shows just-cut melon, honeysuckle, spiced peach tea and subtle nuttiness. Sweet melon, spice and honeysuckle on the palate with a squirt of juicy citrus and spiced nuts. Very ripe on the mid-palate and the oak is restrained. Finish is a bit hot, but a note of hay is interesting at the end.

Raphael 2010 First Label Sauvignon Blanc ($26): Lemon, green apple and kiwi fruit aromas with honey and blanched almond notes. Fuller bodied and very citrusy. Bit lean on flavor but good balance. Slight saline quality to finish, that turns just a bit bitter.

Red Tail Ridge Winery 2010 Semi-Sweet Riesling ($14): Apricot -- fresh and dried -- with hints of mango and lime on the nose. Friendly style with gobs of sweet, juicy fruit -- apricot, peach and pineapple. Rich mid-palate but nice cut of acidity on the finish to bring just enough focus. Finish is pretty long.

Roanoke Vineyards 2010 "The Wild" Chardonnay ($20): Light vanilla over top of peach, apple and high-toned herbs. Medium body with butterscotch and ripe, juicy fruit. Medium-long finish with nice acidity and balance. Appetite-whetting finisih with pineapple and Asian pear notes.

Sherwood House Vineyards 2008 Chardonnay ($30): Pure pear aromas accented by vanilla, toasty oak and roasted hazelnuts. Round, opulent palate with nice, integrated acidity to keep it balanced. Pear and toffee flavors lead into more nuts and vanilla. Long finish with crisp apple and a bit of lemon zest at the very end.

Shinn Estate Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon ($41): Blueberry and cassis aromas mingle with notes of smoked meat, chicory coffee and dark chocolate. Hefty and slightly hot (15.4%) on the palate, showing fruit that edges on over-ripe but holds on, with chocolate, coffee and oak notes. Ripe, slightly edgy tannins provide structure. After a few hours open, a pretty minty note emerges.

Shinn Estate Vineyards 2010 Haven ($36): 84% sauvignon blanc with 16% semillon. Complex nose of melon, fig, nutty oak, dried apricot and golden raisin. Rich and dry on the palate, it shows dried fruit and nut flavors layered on top of melon and peach. A bit more acidity would help enliven the palate.

Wolffer Estate Vineyards 2008 "Caya" Cabernet Franc ($40): Cherries, tobacco, sweet cedar and green peppercorn aromas lead into medium-light body with similar flavors with caramel added. Lacks fruit just a bit, but well made.

Zugibe Vineyards 2008 Dry Riesling ($13): Citrus and petrol aromas dominate. Not big on flavor -- again mostly citrus and petrol. Dry with very good acidity and focus. Right on the edge of the "citrus water" style of dry riesling.

Zugibe Vineyards 2009 Late Harvest Riesling ($22): Honey, botrytis and pineapple on the nose. Shows its RS, but finishes nearly dry. Very botrytis driven with secondary flavors of apricot, peach and pineapple. Long finish with orange and spice. Want a bit more acid and perhaps a bit mature for a 2009, but delicious.

Zugibe Vineyards 2008 Semi-Dry Riesling ($13): Nose shows citrus and apricot with hints of petrol. Palate is peachy but not intense, with light layers of lime and honey. Off-dry with good-no-great acidity.

Empire State Cellars Wine Club: May 2012 Selections

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

The May shipment of the Empire State Cellars Wine Club won't ship for a few weeks, but from now on, we're going to announce the selecitons at least a few weeks beforehand. That way, if you're not already a member but want the wines, you'll have time to join!

If you're not familiar with the club, you can learn more here.

"Hello New York" Wines

Channing Daughters Winery 2010 Scuttlhole Chardonnay: I prefer my chardonnay unadorned and clean -- usually the less oak the better. Winemaker Chris Tracy makes an array of chardonnays, but this one is my favorites -- all steel with ample fruit, a minerally vein and juicy acidity.

Medolla Vineyards 2007 Merlot: You may not know this one-wine winery, but Medolla is a name to know when it comes to value merlot on Long Island. Pure and expressive, this merlot is ripe, but not too ripe, showing restrained oak and good length with gently grippy tannins.

"Getting to Know New York" Wines

Lieb Family Cellars 2010 10th Anniversary Pinot Blanc: Complex with layers of almond, white pepper and candied orange peel sprinkled over juicy pears, this wine -- made for the first time to celebrate the winery's 10th anniversary -- balances richness with juicy acidity, resulting in a beautiful mouthfeel.

Lenz Winery 2007 Estate Selection Merlot: Eric Fry's winemaking is decidedly low-tech, and that hands-off approach lets this wine shine. Plump and juicy -- with little noticeable oak -- this is a wine that over-delivers with it's aromas and of red and black cherry, plums and a bit of blueberry compote. 

"New York Wine Trail" Wines

Paumanok Vineyards 2011 Chenin Blanc: The Massoud family has a cult following for this wine, one that expresses vintage variation as much as any on Long Island. While the 2010 was rich with sweet tropical fruit, this edition is more citrusy and saline with hints of melon. Local oysters dream about this wine.

Arrowhead Spring Vineyards 2010 Syrah: Think Rhone rather than Australia with this wine from Niagara. Though young -- an hour or two in a decanter, or a few years in your cellar wouldn't hurt -- it shows beautiful, rich fruit, peppery spice and the kind of heft you want to heartier meals.

"Excelsior" Wines

Anthony Road Wine Company 2009 Martini-Reinhardt Selection Riesling: Really only available in the Anthony Road tasting room, we were able to procure a small parcel of this pure, complex and lengthy riesling that is absolutely delicious today but will reward those patient enough to cellar it. Simply stunning.

The Grapes of Roth 2005 Merlot: Veteran winemaker Roman Roth's personal label built its reputation on merlot. This elegant, nuanced merlot comes from Sam McCullough's vineyard and features cherry, licorice, tobacco, subtle dried herbs and graphite aromas and flavors. Again -- you can drink it today or park it in your cellar.

If you haven't signed up for the club yet, fear not. You can still get in on this first shipment. Email Katherine Jaeger, Manager of Wine Clubs, at [email protected] and she will take good care of you. And remember, you can customize your club to include just red or whites wines too if you'd like.

Shinn Estate Vineyards 2008 Nine Barrels Merlot

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

With so many communication channels at our finger tips these days (Facebook, Twitter, email, etc.) it feels like I'm discussing local wines with people almost constantly. 

It's fun, but I've noticed something recently -- great vintages can cause an interesting side effect. The other, 'non-great' vintages can very easily be looked down upon or ignored altogehter.

2007 and 2010 were among the best vintages ever for Long Island. We all know that by now. But, because many 2007 reds have come and gone, and 2010 reds are trickling into the marketplace, it's almost like 2008 and 2009 didn't happen.

Don't make that mistake. The 2008 and 2009 growing years both presented their own unique challenges to local growers and winemakers, but most years do. And any region's best producers will make quality wine consistently in even the more challenging vintages. 

Take this Shinn Estate Vineyards 2008 Nine Barrels Reserve Merlot ($43) for instance. Following the ripe 2007 year, many consider 2008 to be underripe. Not so.

The nose is dominated by dark fruit -- think blackberry, cassis and black cherry -- chocolate and toasty oak. There is a peppery edge too, but it's black pepper, not green.

That spicy, peppery quality is even more pronouned on the medium-bodied palate, layered with fruit flavors of plum, black cherry and blackberry. The oak is a bit too evident for me right now -- in a raw, barrel sort of way -- but given the slightly chewy tannins, this wine has a chance to develop and integrate over the next several years. Showing decent length now, the finish is a bit bacony as well.

Looking at my tasting notebook, the last thing I wrote for this wine was "Definitely re-taste in a year." Of course, knowing how rabid Shinn's fans are, I may not get to do that unless I buy it now.

Producer: Shinn Estate Vineyards 
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
ABV: 13.7%
Cases: 225
Price: $43*

 

(3 out of 5, Very good/Recommended)

(*Ratings Guide)

 

 

Merlot Bud Break at Shinn Estate Vineyards (April 6, 2012)

Photo courtesy of Shinn Estate Vineyards

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

What was mere speculation and conjecture just a few weeks ago is now a reality on the North Fork. 

Shinn Estate Vineyards' David Page sent me this photo this morning of bud break in their estate merlot vineyard, marking what appears to be the earliest bud break Long Island wine country has ever seen. The grape-growing process is a marathon, not a sprint, but the North Fork is certainly out of the gate early. 

Now local growers get to stress over nighttime low temperatures for the next month or so, hoping to avoid crippling frosts that could decimate their crops.

Hopefully we'll get some more bud break pictures from across the state as it happens. Stay tuned.

Bedell Cellars 2010 Syrah

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Winemaker Rich Olsen-Harbich did some things differently during his first crush at Bedell Cellars in 2010. He brought his ambient yeast fermentations, of course, but he also made a couple blends by co-fermenting the grapes -- making his blending decisions from the outset.

Bedell Cellars 2010 Syrah ($50) is one of those wines, made with 90% syrah and 10% viognier in the model of the Northern Rhone. 

That squirt of viognier is most apparently on a pretty, effusive nose that shows melon and honeysuckle aromas layered over fresh red berries, plums and a combination of earthy cumin and coriander. The distinct black pepper aromas found in most local syrah are but a mere shadow here -- there, but lurking in the background.

Earthy and savory, the somewhat juicy, medium-bodied palate delivers crunchy red fruit -- think red cherry and cranberry -- with a bit more pepper showing next to subtle floral qualities. The medium-length finish shows more of that earthy-spicy combination. 

I find myself wanting perhaps a bit more structure, but there is enough acidity to frame the flavors and keep it all together. 

Producer: Bedell Cellars 
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
ABV: 13%
Cases: 150
Price: $50*

 

(3 out of 5, Very good/Recommended)

(*Ratings Guide)

 

 

Gerry Hayden Named James Beard Award "Best Chef, Northeast" Finalist

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

For the second year in row, Chef Gerry Hayden of The North Fork Table & Inn in Southold on the North Fork of Long Island is a finalist in the James Beard Foundation Awards as "Best Chef, Northeast."

He's one of five finalists for the award, up against Jamie Bissonnette of Coppa in Boston, Tim Cushman of O Ya in Boston, Matthew and Kate Jennings of La Laiterie in Providence, and Eric Warnstedt of Hen of the Wood in Waterbury, Conn.

Almost upon opening, NFT has been where Nena and I dine on our splurge nights.We've never had anything but an outstanding meal and experience.

Good luck chef!

Red Newt Cellars 2008 Glacier Ridge Vineyards Merlot

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Living on Long Island, I drink a fair amount of merlot. It's every where you look in wine country -- literally and figuratively. I don't need to look north to the Finger Lakes for merlot. And honestly, I don't. Merlot is well down the list of what I'm looking for in the Finger Lakes.

In fact, it's probably not on the list at all.

That brings us to Red Newt Cellars 2008 Glaciers Ridge Vineyards Merlot ($45), a wine that I decided to write up for Wine Blogging Wednesday #75, hosted by Joe Roberts of 1WineDude.

The theme? "Singles Night" -- focusing on single-vineyard wines.

Just a handful of years ago, I wouldn't have had that many options for single-vineyard wines in New York. But that's all changed in recent years, with Red Newt embracing it as much as anyone.

That all being said -- $45 merlot? From the Finger Lakes? From 2008 -- a cooler year?

Yes. Believe it. I don't know Glaciers Ridge Vineyards well, but clearly they have a special site on their hands.

The complex nose show blackberry, black cherry and plum fruit with a sprinkling of cardamom, sumac, black pepper and apparent but not over-whelming smoky oak that hints at both vanilla and chocolate.

Medium-to-full bodied, the palate shows unusual concentration for this grape in this region, and balances intensity and richness with lively freshness, showing ripe, bright berry and plum fruit with nuances of spice, tarragon and violets. Medium-light tannins are velvety and smooth, framing the flavors nicely.

The oak is there, sure, but it's pretty well integrated, only peeking out alone and a bit raw just a bit on the finish.

I haven't tasted every merlot from the Finger Lakes, but it's difficult to imagine one that is much better than this one. Very well done.

Producer: Red Newt Cellars
AVA: Finger Lakes
ABV: 13.7%  
Price: $45*

(3.5 out of 5 | Very Good, Recommended to Outstanding and Delicious, Highly Recommended)

(Ratings Guide)

April 5: NYCR Artisan Dinner with Anthony Nappa Wines at Orto

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

After taking a bit of a winter break, we're happy to announce the next in our series of New York Cork Report Artisan Dinners -- this one with Anthony Nappa Wines at Orto, Chef Eric Lomando's new restaurant in Miller Place.

Nappa, who many of you know as the former winemaker for Shinn Estate, has been making wine under his own label for a few vintages now. He brings a diverse winemaking background -- having made wine in New Zealand, Southern Italy, California and Massachusetts -- and has a bit of a cult following for his white pinot noir, named Anomaly.

Join us on Thursday, April 5 at 7 p.m. and enjoy Lomando's five-course menu paired with four of Nappa's wines -- including the newly released 2011 Anomaly and sold out 2010 "Bordo" Cabernet Franc -- and an English strong ale that he brewed.

Tickets are $55 plus tax and gratuity. Please call 631-862-0151 for reservations. 

 

NYCR Artisan Dinner with Anthony Nappa Wines
April 5, 2012 at 7 p.m. @ Orto

Fava Bean and Pecorino Salad

2011 Anomaly

 

Tender Braised Beef Milanese with Pickled Vegetables 

English Strong Ale

 

Sauteed Shrimp with Chorizo and Anson Mills White Corn Polenta

2010 "Spezia" Gewurztraminer

 

Grilled Pork Loin with Roasted Sunchokes, Spring Onions and Bacon Jus

2010 "Bordo" Cabernet Franc

 

Just-Made Ricotta with Honey and Raisin Walnut Bread

 2010 "Luminous" Riesling

 

$55 plus tax and gratuity. Call 631-862-0151 for reservations.

Empire State Cellars Wine Club: March 2012 Selections

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

The March shipment of the Empire State Cellars Wine Club will ship this week, so it's time to tell you about the picks.

Admittedly, I had a little help with the wines this time around... thanks to our annual Wines of the Year tasting back in January. 

Many of this shipment’s wines won “Wine of the Year” for their region and style. One even won our overall New York State Wine of the Year.

If you're not familar with the club, you can learn more here.

"Hello New York" Wines

Keuka Lake Vineyards 2010 Semi-Dry Riesling: Ripe, forward and apple-y, this well-balanced riesling is fruity enough for lovers or sweeter-style rieslings, but shows a crisp, citrusy edge to it that keeps it from being cloying or flabby. This was one ofthe finalists in our Finger Lakes riesling flight, and although it didn’t win, it was a standout.

Arrowhead Spring 2010 Pinot Noir: Pinot noir — pinot that tastes like pinot anyway — under $20 is a bit of a Holy Grail. It’s not easy to find and when you do, you stock up on it. This wine, which won “Red Wine of the Year” from the Niagara region this year, is one such wine. I’ve gone through at least half a case in the past few months. It’s agreat value.

"Getting to Know New York" Wines

The Grapes of Roth 2009 Riesling: German-born winemaker Roman Roth — better known as Wolffer Estate’s winemaker — has a way with riesling, but this is my favorite from him yet. Made from fruit grown in Split Rock Vineyard outside of Greenport — one of the North Fork’s cooler sites — this wine features a laser beam of focused, wet-stone minerality.

Ravines 2009 Pinot Noir: 2009 was not a great red wine vintage in the Finger Lakes but, pinot noir doesn’t need all of the dry heat that other varieties do. So, the best growers and winemakers made some delicious wines, including this one. With layered flavors of red fruit, spice and earth, this is an Old World pinot lover’s pinot.

"New York Wine Trail" Wines

Hermann J. Wiemer 2010 Dry Riesling Reserve: The flight of Finger Lakes rieslings that the team and I tasted through was filled with quality wines, butthis wine stood out — winning Finger Lakes White Wine of the Year. Focused and complex, with myriad flavors and a wonderful mouthfeel, it is a stunning example a dry Finger Lakes riesling.

Billsboro Winery 2010 Syrah: This wine, which won Finger Lakes Red Wine of the Year, was perhaps the most surprising of the tasting for me. Most New York syrah is underwhelming, but not this one. A warm, long growing season ripened the fruit (grown on the south-eastern shores of Seneca Lake) without sapping it of its natural balance.

"Excelsior" Wines

Chateau Frank 2006 Blanc de Noirs: Winner of both Finger Lakes Sparkling Wine of the Year and New York Sparkling Wine of the Year, thiswine from one of the best known producers in the state shows that while riesling rules the Finger Lakes,the soils and climate are ideally suited for sparkling wine production.

Peconic Bay Winery 2007 Lowerre Family Estate: Named overall New York Wine of the Year at our tasting — the first time any wine has done so — this merlot-heavy blend of Bordeaux varieties shows the ripeness of the 2007 vintage, but also winemaker Greg Gove’s restraint in the cellar. The oak is in the background, allowing layers of fruit, earth and herbs to come through.

If you haven't signed up for the club yet, fear not. You can still get in on this first shipment. Email Katherine Jaeger, Manager of Wine Clubs, at [email protected] and she will take good care of you. And remember, you can customize your club to include just red or whites wines too if you'd like.

Long Island Vineyards Could See Early Bud Break in 2012

Photo Courtesy of Bedell Cellars

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

The earliest anyone can remember seeing bud break in Long Island vineyards was mid-April in 2010 -- a vintage that ended up being one of the longest and warmest on record. Bud break in 2010 was about two weeks earlier than average.

But, after a mild winter and with temperatures currently in the upper-50s and 60s this week -- Long Island vineyards could see bud break even earlier in 2012. 

"The potential for an early bud break this year appears higher than normal. If the weather continues to trend the way it has over the winter season it is increasingly likely that an early bud break will occur," said David Page of Shinn Estate Vineyards, where bud break occurred on April 17 in 2010.

A mild winter and this current string of warm weather doesn't necessarily mean early bud break, however.

According to Alice Wise Sr. Resource Educator for the viticulture program at Cornell Cooperative Extension of Suffolk County bud break is "related to a certain number of days with the average temperatures greater than 50 degrees Fahrenheit. But there is no magic formula to predict when it will occur. There are likely other physiological processes at play as well. An early bud break is a possibility but it is difficult to predict. Depends on the weather over the next month."

Channing Daughters Winery partner and CEO -- and soil scientist -- Larry Perrine echoes that wait-and-see approach. "Are we at risk for an earlier bud break in 2012?  Only the next 3 weeks or so will tell," said in an email yesterday, adding "However, with sustained warmer than average temperatures, as we are having, bud break can be up to two weeks earlier than average."

In and of itself, early bud break isn't a problem. In fact, some of the earliest bud breaks have occurred in years like 2007 and 2010, considered among the region's best. An early start offers the potential for a long, even ripening process. It also mitigates the impact less-than-optimal growing conditions later in the season can have on the overall vintage.

That's the bright side of early bud break. The risk is hard frost in the spring -- after bud break -- which could significantly damage buds and just-forming leaves -- greatly reducing crop size. Entire blocks or even vineyards could be lost. 

For now, Rich Olsen-Harbich, winemaker at Bedell Cellars, is focusing on the positive possibilities, saying "The beauty of eastern Long Island is that we rarely experience frost problems. That’s one of the big reasons we’re so successful growing wine grapes here – our spring temperatures usually prevent that from happening."

A lot can happen after bud break, but Olsen-Harbich also reminds us that it's still very early and a lot can happen between now and when buds open. "I’ve also seen things warm up early only to be set back with weeks of cold April weather. One thing I do know is that there no two years are the same on the North Fork. That’s what makes it so challenging, interesting and exciting to grow grapes here. As for this year?  We’ll see!"

 

Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars 2009 Rkatsiteli

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

I was first introduced to the Rkatsiteli grape when I tried the 2006 vintage bottling from Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars. I was quickly hooked by the aromatic white that can be described as riesling-meets-gewruztraminer-meets-sauvignon blanc in its aromas and flavors with a beam of beautiful natural acidity.

Since then, Dr. Frank's Rkatsiteli has been a bit up and down for me -- always drinkable, but sometimes without the verve and length of that first taste.

Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars 2009 Rkatsiteli ($15) is lemony on the nose with notes of citrus blossom, sweet herb, lemon verbena and golden raspberry.

Soft and juicy, the just off-dry (.45% RS) palate is driven by lemon-lime flavors with a sweet grassy note and hints of sweet pea. The finish is long with juicy, citrusy acidity.

Though perhaps a bit one-dimensional, the balance is good.

Producer: Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars
AVA: Finger Lakes
ABV: 12%
Residual Sugar: 4.5%
TA: 9.3 g/L
pH: 3.21
Price: $15*

 

(3 out of 5, Very good/Recommended)

(*Ratings Guide)

Lenz Winery 2007 Estate Selection Merlot

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

If you're looking for innovative, modern winemaking or flashy branding, The Lenz Winery probably isn't for you. Lenz isn't in the Long Island Wine Council and isn't particularly active on channels like Facebook and Twitter.

Instead, Lenz has relied on winemaker Eric Fry and his traditional, Old World-styled wines and the periodic, well-publicized blind tasting against top Boredeaux, to build its reputation. And it's worked. Lenz has a devoted following and Eric's reds are often among the most complex in the region.

Carrying on a tradition of well-priced, age-worthy merlot, Lenz Winery 2007 Estate Selection Merlot ($24) offers aromas of sweet cherry, violets and plums, with just a little note of oak in the background.

Plump and juicy with fresh acidity and soft, supple tannins, the palate brings a bit of blueberry to the red and black fruit party. With some time in the glass, an earthy note emerges, adding a layer of complexity to the superior mouthfeel and long finish.

As this wine often is, this is approachable now, but will reward time in your cellar. I have a few bottles of the 2001 left in my cellar and the last one I opened was still alive and developing.

Producer: The Lenz Winery
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
ABV: 13%  
Price: $24*

(3.5 out of 5 | Very Good, Recommended to Outstanding and Delicious, Highly Recommended)

(Ratings Guide)

Scenes from the 2012 Long Island Nano Cask Festival

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

At beer events, including the 2012 Long Island Nano Cask Festival last weekend, I'm often introduced as "A wine guy who likes beer too." I'm not even sure that's accurate anymore. I drink nearly as much beer as I do wine. There's little I like better after a long day tasting wine than a couple pints -- preferably of a hoppy, bitter-but-barely-balanced IPA. 

With beer, I know what I like and don't like, but I don't know anywhere near as much as the talented NYCR beer team -- including our Long Island Correspondent, Donavan Hall, who is one-third of the team behind Rocky Point Artisan Brewers, organizers of the festival Sunday afternoon.

In it's third year, the festival -- at least from an attendee's perspective -- went off without a hitch. Though well attended, the festival never felt crowded and one never had it wait longer than a few minutes to get a fresh taste of cask ale from one of seven nano-breweries and two homebrew groups in attendance.

Honestly, some of the beers were a bit underwhelming -- either not true to style or simply didn't benefit from the cask format. I can think of at least two beers that would have benefited greatly from more aggressive carbonation. But, the high points were pretty high with beers like Ghost Cast Brewing's Blood Red Rye, Port Jeff Brewing's Citra Dry-Hopped Schooner Ale, Barrier Brewing's Oil City Black IPA, and Rocky Point Artisan Brewers ESB.

Though I took a notebook with me, it never came out of my pocket. I did take a lot of pictures and figured I'd share a few here. The organizers plan to continue putting this event on annually and I can't recommend it enough if you're a lover of beer -- especially locally brewed beer from small producers.

The 2011 New York Cork Report Wines of the Year

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

I think I can speak for my fellow editors and contributors when I say that our 2011 Wines of the Year tasting was a fun, challenging and inspiring day of 16 wine tasting flights.

I always come away with myriad story ideas swirling in my head after this tasting. This year is no different. Look for pieces from the team over the next few weeks. 

But today, we announce the winners -- including our first-ever New York Wine of the Year, Peconic Bay Winery 2007 Lowerre Family Estate.

Our 2011 Regional Wines of the Year are:

White Wines

Hudson Valley White Wine: Oak Summit Vineyard 2010 Chardonnay
Finger Lakes White Wine: Hermann J. Wiemer 2010 Riesling Dry Reserve
Long Island White Wine: Paumanok Vineyards 2010 Sauvignon Blanc
Niagara White: Eveningside Vineyards 2010 Reserve Chardonnay

Sparkling Wines

Finger Lakes Sparkling: Chateau Frank 2006 Blanc de Noir
Long Island Sparkling: Lenz Winery 2005 Cuvee

Red Wines

Hudson Valley Red: Tousey Winery 2010 Cabernet Franc
Niagara Red: Arrowhead Spring Vineyards 2010 Pinot Noir
Finger Lakes Red: Billsboro Winery 2010 Syrah
Long Island Merlot: Paumanok Vineyards 2007 Merlot
Long Island Other Red: Peconic Bay Winery 2007 Lowerre Family Estate

Dessert Wines

Finger Lakes Dessert Wine: Atwater Estate Vineyards 2010 Celsius
Long Island Dessert Wine: Wolffer Estate 2009 Laica

After we tasted each of these flights, the style winners were re-poured and tasted together to choose state-wide winners -- but only if the voting wine editors were unanimous. That happened twice this year:

New York Sparkling Wine of the Year: Chateau Frank 2006 Blanc de Noir
New York Red Wine of the Year: Peconic Bay Winery 2007 Lowerre Family Estate

Then, after a lengthy discussion, we decided unanimously that the Peconic Bay Winery 2007 Lowerre Family Estate was deserving of being named the 2011 New York Cork Report Wine of the Year. We'll have a post later this week about the discussion and why we chose this year and this wine.

Congratulations to all of the winners -- and keep an eye on the site for most post-tasting coverage.

 

T'Jara Vineyards Joins Long Island Merlot Alliance

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Yesterday, the Long Island Merlot Alliance (LIMA) announced that T’Jara Vineyards label has joined the merlot promotion group.

That means that two barrels of 2010 T’Jara merlot will be included in the 2010 Merliance, LIMA’s cooperative merlot blend.

T’Jara is a brand created by winemaker Russell Hearn and business partner Jed Beitler, who together own T’Jara Vineyards -- an established vineyard in in Mattituck, NY. T'Jara  released two 2007 vintage wines, a Merlot and Merlot-based blend, in late 2011.

According to the press release, “T’Jara is the phonetic spelling of an aboriginal word that, roughly translated, means ‘where I’m from.’ We wanted our wines to convey a definite sense of place—Long Island’s East End.”

It's no surprise that T'Jara has joined LIMA -- Russell is also the winemaker at Pellegrini Vineyards, one of LIMA's founding members.

Beyond the blending and making of Merliance every year, LIMA has largely been an event-focused organization, organizing tasting events that pit member merlots against merlots from other regions.

 

With the addition of T’Jara Vineyards, the Long Island Merlot Alliance has six members, including Clovis Point, McCall Wines, Raphael, Sherwood House Vineyards and Wölffer Estate Vineyard.

Damiani Wine Cellars 2010 Semi-Dry Riesling

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

I first tasted this wine as a part of Riesling Hour and it was one of the more popular wines amongst the Long Island wine industry folks who joined me for the tasting. This review is based on a subsequent tasting in my home.

Light hints of apricot and lime bring nuance to a nose driven by sweet pear and green apple.

Juicy, ripe and off-dry, the palate shows more sweet pear character along with flavors of peach and white grape -- with snappy acidity that brings focus and verve. There is an interesting floral, green tea note on the medium-length finish.

Producer: Damiani Wine Cellars
AVA: Finger Lakes
ABV: 11.9%  
RS: 2.0%
Production: 420 cases
Price: $16*

(3.5 out of 5 | Very Good, Recommended to Outstanding and Delicious, Highly Recommended)

(Ratings Guide)

Peconic Bay Winery 2009 "La Barrique" Chardonnay

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Yes, another North Fork chardonnay. A barrel-fermented one at that -- thus the name "La Barrique." But wait. It's not what you think. This is the rare barrel-affected chardonnay that I willingly went back to after my tasting was finished. I had two glasses, in fact.

It almost makes me hate winemaker Greg Gove for proving my boredom over local chardonnay wrong.

Aromas of pineapple, Golden Delicious apple, vanilla, and lemon verbena are accented by just a hint of butter. Overly toasty or raw oak just isn't part of the equation.

Mouth-filling but very well balanced, the palate shows similar character to the nose, but with a creamy mid-palate replacing any obvious butter and a bit of sweet oak mingling with light vanilla and cooked sugar flavors. The finish is long with an acidic edge and hints of citrus zest.

Though still not a style or wine I'd reach for regularly, this is a very well-made wine.

Producer: Peconic Bay Winery
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
ABV: 12.9%   
Price: $24*
  

(4 out of 5 | Outstanding and Delicious, Highly Recommended)

(*Ratings Guide)

Altamont Vineyard & Winery 2008 Leon Millot Reserve

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Because of my interest in New York and other northeast wines, I've tasted a great many red hybrids over the years, but never Leon Millot.

In fact, I had never even heard of Leon Millot learning that Keuka Lake Vineyards on Keuka Lake in the Finger Lakes has a bit of a cult following for its rendition. I have yet to taste that wine, but was able to get my hands on a bottle from Altamont Vineyards & Winery in Altamont, NY -- which happens to just be 15 miles or so from my where my wife's family lives. I hope to visit in the spring sometime.

Not knowing much about the grape, I did a little online research and found this on Wikipedia:

"Léon Millot is a red variety of hybrid grape used for wine.^[1] It was created in 1911 in the Oberlin Institute in Colmar, Alsace, by the French viticulturist Eugène Kuhlmann (1858–1932) by crossing the hybrid grape Millardet et Grasset 101-14 O.P. (which is Vitis riparia × Vitis rupestris^[2]) with Goldriesling, which is Vitis vinifera. The variety was named after the winemaker and tree nusery owner Léon Millot.

Léon Millot ripens early, and has high resistance against fungal diseases. It is therefore suited for cultivation in colder climates. It gives powerful wine with some foxy aromas."

If you're a fan of of Leon Millot and are expecting "powerful" and "foxy" you may be let down by Altamont Vineyard & Winery 2008 Leon Millot Reserve ($17). I didn't find it to be either.

The nose isn't particularly effusive, but features black cherry and currant fruit with hints of woodsy spice, camphor, and coffee.

Fresh, bouncy acidity provides structure on a low-tanning palate that delivers a serious dose of oak -- coming through mostly as chocolate and chicory coffee -- over top of black cherry flavors. The mid-palate is a little dilute and the finish is a bit short with a mothball quality that I didn't love.

Producer: Altamont Vineyard &Winery
AVA: New York
ABV: 11.5%  
Price: $17

 

 

(2 out of 5 | Average)

(Ratings Guide)

 

 

Billsboro Winery 2010 Dry Riesling

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

My Finger Lakes-focused colleague Evan Dawson and I sometimes lament what sometimes happens to Finger Lakes riesling when it's fermented dry. Depending on the fruit and the winemaker, the wines can become shrill, hollow and overly austere. Casually, we refer to them as "lemon water riesling."

That's not a compliment.

It seems though that dry rieslings from longer and/or warmer growing seasons -- like the long 2010 one -- tend to avoid this problem more often.  

Billsboro Winery 2010 Dry Riesling ($16) is an fine example of that. Made from fruit grown at Sawmill Creek Vineyards, it has expressive, pretty aromas of river rock, lime and citrus blossom.

Driven by minerally, rocky flavors, the lithe body also delivers lime, kumquat and grapefruit citrus character with a bit of green apple. Staying just this side of austere, its dry (.3% rs) with a focusing beam of acidity and a medium-long, mouth-watering finish that shows hints of flint.

Producer: Billsboro Winery
AVA: Finger Lakes
ABV: 11.5%  
RS: .3%
Production: 175 cases
Price: $16*

(3.5 out of 5 | Very Good, Recommended to Outstanding and Delicious, Highly Recommended)

(Ratings Guide)

 

 

Heart & Hands Wine Company 2009 Pinot Noir

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Over a relatively short period of time, Heart & Hands Wine Company has almost become synonymous with New York pinot noir. There are other wineries making good versions of course, but on a consistent basis, there isn't a producer I can recommend more for pinot.

Co-owner and winemaker Tom Higgins carefully sources fruit from dependable growers and his passion for the grape manifests itself in meticulous cellar work.

Heart & Hands Wine Company 2009 Pinot Noir ($20) -- which is closed under Vino-Seal by the way -- offers aromas of red cherries and cranberries sprinkled with brown spice, star anise and a bit of black pepper.

Light bodied -- there isn't any syrah in this pinot -- the palate is juicy with red fruit flavors and layers of toasty oak, spice and tea leaf. Fresh acidity and well-incorporate, soft tannins bring structure and lengthen the finish.

Producer: Heart & Hands Wine Company
AVA: Finger Lakes
ABV: 12.6%  
Price: $20

(3.5 out of 5 | Very Good, Recommended to Outstanding and Delicious, Highly Recommended)

(Ratings Guide)

Atwater Estate Vineyards 2010 Riesling Bubble

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Sparkling riesling isn't new in the Finger Lakes. A handful of wineries have been making it for years and a couple years ago, one even won the Governor's Cup.

Last fall, Atwater Estate Vineyards became the latest winery to make sparkling riesling, adding Riesling Bubble to its portfolio. Off-dry and force-carbonated, it also features modern packaging that definitely stands out on a store shelf (my picture doesn't do it justice) and is closed  with a crown cap rather than a cork.

A fruity nose shows ripe peach, candied green apple and hints of mint syrup. Soft carbonation and crisp acidity make this fun, fruity sparkler seem almost dry. Short on the finish.

Producer: Atwater Estate Vineyards
AVA: Finger Lakes
ABV: 11%
Harvest Brix: 19.6
Residual Sugar: 2%
TA: 8.5 g/L
pH: 2.94
Price: $16*

(2.5 out of 5, Average-to-Very good/Recommended)

(*Ratings Guide)

Grape Rising: Gruner Veltliner Makes Its Case in the Finger Lakes

Just-harvested Gruner Veltliner grapes  (Photo courtesy of Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars)

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

On paper, Gruner Veltliner -- the grape grown primarily in Austria and other Eastern European nations -- is an ideal grape to grow in the Finger Lakes.

First and perhaps more importantly, it's winter hardy -- not as hardy as riesling, but more hardy than gewurztraminer and many other varieties being grown successfully in the region. It's also an early ripener, said to ripen before gewurztraminer and riesling.

The skins are thick too, even thicker than chardonnay, so is affected less by botrytis and other fungal infections.

As Brendan Zugibe of Zugibe Vineyards put it "Climate-wise this variety is a perfect fit...actually better than most vinifera varieties."

Lots of Potential -- What About the Reality?

Clearly gruner holds promise in the Finger Lakes, but could it be like the blue chip recruit with all the potential in the world, but never realizes its full potential for one reason or another?

To find out, so I sought out those growing it and tasted a few examples.

So I asked Josh Wig, general manager at Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars, which planted three-quarters of an acre in 2008 and another half acre in 2009, how it was handling Finger Lakes winters. He was optimistic, but cautiously so. "Time will tell. It has not been tested by a severe winter but appears to be fairly winter hardy," he said, adding that in general "So far it has been similar to grow as our riesling."

At Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars, Fred Frank said that the have planted gruner in warmer sections of their vineyards because it's not quite as hardy as some other grapes.

Young Vines and Early Wines

By any measure, all of the gruner vines in the region are young. At Zugibe Vineyards, the just under an acre of Gruner was planted in 2007. Dr. Frank planted their gruner -- 8 acres in total -- in stages in 2008, 2009 and 2010.

The youth of the vines makes it unfair to make any proclamations about what gruner's real potential is from tasting the three wines I was able to get my hands on -- two commercial releases and on other that wasn't released to the public, but they do offer an early glimpse into what could come later.

Zugibe Vineyards 2009 Gruner Veltliner has a nose vaguely reminiscent of a dry Finger Lakes riesling -- a burst of lime-y citrus with green apple and only subtle hints of the white pepper one expects from gruner. Though similarly citrusy and apple-y on the palate, there is a richness to the mid-palate  and a savory-salty edge to the finish that is intriguing. Rating:

Dr. Konstantin Frank Vineifera Wine Cellars 2010 Gruner Veltliner is floral and herby with aromas of citrus and kiwi. Mouth-filling and showing flavors similar its the aromas, the palate is crisp and refreshing, but lacks varietal character. Shows great acidity and an interesting under-ripe peach note on the finish. Rating:

Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars 2010 Gruner Veltliner wasn't released to the public (the 2011 will be) but it showed the most varietal character and impressed me the most. The nose displayed notes of pear, pineapple, grapefruit and lime, white pepper and wet river stones. Stone-y and peppery, the well-balanced palate shows nice length and flavors that range from dried pineapple to pear to grapefruit and gingery spice. Rating:

Popularity and Growth

So what is gruner's place in the Finger Lakes wine world? It's too early to say, but producers are optimistic. "It would make sense to assume that gruner's appeal in the Finger Lakes will take a little time to fully develop," said Zugibe, adding "Not many people know anything about the variety outside of Austria. But from the start this wine was not only embraced, it has been one of the best-selling products currently on the tasting room shelves."

On the grape's future potential, Fred Frank told me, "We are very optimistic regarding the future of Gruner in the Finger Lakes. We have already won several gold medals for the Dr. Frank Gruner and received praise and encouragement from visiting Austrian winemakers."

Medals or no, it will be interesting to see the unique expression of gruner develop in the region over time. I know that some other growers have planted it as well. Stay tuned. This could be fun.

Tousey Winery 2010 Cabernet Franc

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

When Ben and Kimberly Peacock took over the wine portion of Tousey Winery's business in 2009 -- Kimberly is founder Ray Tousey's daughter -- the portfolio was focused on hybrid grapes. "To be frank, that didn't suit our tastes," Ben told me, adding "So, we switched our focus to vinifera."

To help make that switch, they've been working with Fox Run Vineyards winemaker Peter Bell in the winery and long-time Long Island grape grower Steve Mudd in their vineyards.

I've already written about the pinot noir, and after tasting the Tousey Winery 2010 Cabernet Franc ($22) -- made from grapes grown by John Bruno at Oak Summit Vineyard -- it's hard not to consider Tousey Winery a major player in the resurgence of quality wine in Hudson Valley.

Plummy, with crushed blackberries, tobacco leaf, subtle herbs, the nose also shows hints of brown sugar, milk chocolate and spice.

The medium-bodied palate is earthy and chocolatey with ripe dark fruit, some oak, and spice flavors. The tannins are soft, but provide just enough structure. The finish brings dried autumn leaves and lingers just a bit.

Producer: Tousey Winery
AVA: New York
ABV: 13% 
Price: $22*
 

(3 out of 5, Very good/Recommended)

(*Ratings Guide)

Empire State Cellars Wine Club: January 2012 Selections

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

It's been a few months coming, but today I'm ready to announce the first shipment of the new Empire State Cellars Wine Club. If you're not familiar with the club, read more about it here.

We've added a fourth club type -- Excelsior -- which can be purchased as a standalone club or added to another club. Those wines will be up to $60 each and the focus for me will be picking wines worthy of your cellar.

Here are the wines for this first shipment. Each is more than welcome in my glass and I hope you'll enjoy them as well.

"Hello New York" Wines

Red Newt Cellars 2009 Davis Farms Vineyard Riesling: Winemaker David Whiting makes a wonderful range of riesling styles, including a handful of single-vineyard wines from various growers. This riesling stood out when I tasted it for it's lime and slate flavors with pretty citrus blossom notes sprinkled in, and for a beautiful crackle of acidity that lengthens the finish.

Anthony Nappa Wines 2010 "Bordo" Cabernet Franc: If you've been a member of this club for very long, you know how much I enjoy the cabernet franc grape. Well, here is a unique expression that shows a ton of personality for the price. Made using ambient yeast and without a splinter of new oak, it shows complexity and freshness... with a bit of rustic character. Look for snappy red fruit, sweet herbs, sundried tomato and wild fennel aromas and flavors.

"Getting to Know New York" Wines

Ravines Wine Cellars 2009 Argetsinger Vineyard Riesling: If there were such a thing as a grand cru vineyard in the Finger Lakes, Sam Argetsinger's vineyard on the eastern slope of Seneca Lake would surely be one. Take Sam's vineyard and add winemaker Morten Hallgren's skills in expressing its beauty, and you get this wine -- one of the Finger Lakes' top rieslings year in and year out.

McCall Wines 2009 Pinot Noir: Pinot noir from Long Island? It's chased by several, but I'm not sure anyone does it better than Russ McCall on his vineyard in Cutchogue. 2009 was a challenging year on the North Fork and one that enabled the best-tended vineyards to shine. Bright red fruits are accented here by subtle oak and and almost floral spicy quality. I always want my pinot noir to be food friendly, and this one fits that bill nicely.

"New York Wine Trail" Wines

Bedell Cellars 2010 Viognier: If you don't see much pinot noir on Long Island, you see even less viognier, but this was one of my favorite wines of last summer. Replete with sweet melon and stone fruit flavors, there are distinct but understated floral and plum flesh -- not the skin -- notes as well. Fresh and focused, the acidity carries peach and melon flavors with it as the finish lingers.

Osprey's Dominion Vineyards 2007 Reserve Merlot: Winemaker Adam Suprenant doesn't make reserve merlot very often, but when he does it really means something. It's no secret that 2007 was a hot, dry year on the North Fork, so combine that with Adam's cellar skills and you get a complete, balanced merlot that is approachable now but will also improve with time in your cellar.

"Excelsior" Wines

Hermann J. Wiemer 2010 Magdalena Vineyard Riesling: One doesn't often think about "warm" anything in the Finger Lakes, but Magdalena Vineyard is one of the warmest vineyard sites in the Finger Lakes -- it's all relative remember. Its mesoclimate, along with varied soils, consistently deliver ripe, balanced fruit to the cellar where winemaker Fred Merwarth works his magic, bottled here as a single-vineyard wine.

Paumanok Vineyards 2007 Tuthills Lane Vineyard Merlot: The NYCR's 2010 Red Wine of the Year from Long Island, this is a benchmark wine for me -- a wine that I compare many merlots to when I'm tasting them. Yes, the flavors are ripe and layered, but what really makes this wine a standout is its structure. The tannins are substantial and chewy, but also incredibly ripe, providing some serious grip without being hard or harsh. Drink it now if you must (make sure you decant it for an hour or two) but tuck it away in your cellar for several years and you'll be rewarded.

If you haven't signed up for the club yet, fear not. You can still get in on this first shipment. Email Katherine Jaeger, Manager of Wine Clubs, at [email protected] and she will take good care of you. And remember, you can customize your club to include just red or whites wines too if you'd like.

 

The New York Cork Report Tasting Table -- January 4, 2012

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

This is the last "Tasting Table" that we'll publish here on the NYCR. Going forward, wines like these will each be reviewed as standalone posts. This is a long edition, but I wanted to get caught up a bit in the tasting notebook and start anew before we get too far into 2012.

Atwater Vineyards 2008 Vidal Blanc ($14*): Crisp Granny Smith apple and green melon aromas. Juicy, fresh palate with loads of green apple and pear flavors. Acidity provides good cut and balances the RS well. Simple but snappy and delicious.

Bloomer Creek Vineyards 2009 Auten Vineyard 2nd Harvest Riesling ($22*): Aromas of apple blossom, pears, yellow apples, lavender and a bit of Champagne-like yeastiness. Super-ripe fruit flavors -- apple, pineapple, golden raisins and guava -- with grapefruit-y acidity that frames that fruitiness, but doesn't quite focus it.

Bloomer Creek Vineyards 2009 Morehouse Vineyard 1st Harvest Riesling ($18*): Unique nose of fig, almond, pear, membrillo and sea shore leads into a complex and ripe palate. Big fig flavors with red apple skin and nutty-salty notes. Some residual sugar, but is balanced by well-incorporated acidity. Unique expression of Finger Lakes riesling.

Comtesse Therese 2006 Aquebogue Estate Cabernet Sauvignon ($25*): The nose delivers woodsy, spicy aromas with blueberry, licorice and cherry compote. Cherry cola, blueberry and plum on the palate with quite a bit of cedar and a distinct caramelized sugar note. Decent fruit, but too much oak.

Damiani Wine Cellars 2010 Dry Riesling Davis Vineyard ($22): Lemon-lime and river rock lead the way on a pretty, classy nose, with citrus blossom and faint honey notes behind. Grapefruit and lime on the attack with peach and lemon-lime joining the party on the crisp mid-palate. Crisp, dry and a bit bony. Citrusy, slate-y finish. Enough fruit to avoid over-austerity.

Dr. Konstantin Frank 2010 Muscat Ottonel ($20*): Classic muscat nose -- floral, candied lemons and Fruity Pebbles. Very floral on the palate with lemon drop candy and pear Jelly Belly. Medium-sweet but not syrupy. Just enough acidity. Probably best on its own or maybe fresh fruit dessert?

Dr. Konstantin Frank 2010 Sauvignon Blanc ($20): Varietally correct nose of grapefruit, lemon and fresh-cut grass. Hay and citrus on the palate with light grassiness and sweet grapefruit flavors. A bit dilute on the mid-palate through the medium-length finish.

Duck Walk Vineyards 2010 Pinot Grigio ($15): The nose shows aromas of canned peaches in syrup, pineapple and papaya with a lightly floral highlight. Palate shows big acid that is a bit disjointed. Candied peach and tropical fruit flavors dominate with some zesty grapefruit character. A bit citrus pithy on the finish.

Duck Walk Vineyards 2010 Rose ($15): Aromas are straightforward with strawberry and cranberry fruit. A bit watery on the attack leading into fruity red berry flavors. Mostly dry with a crisp finish. Fresh, but very one-note.

Fox Run Vineyards 2009 Riesling ($14*): Mostly pear on the nose with a little peach and citrus. Friendly style with some residual sugar and good-but-not-electric acidity. Pear and peach fruit flavors and a surprising walnut nuttiness on the medium finish.

Hermann J. Wiemer 2009 Riesling Dry Reserve ($25*): Floral on the nose with notes of herbal tea, pear and gala apple. Beautiful laser beam of acidity focuses pear and sweet lime flavors accented by pretty floral flavors. Subtle richness on the mid-palate but that acidity balances the wine very well. Finish is long with lemon and grapefruit citrus flavors.

Heron Hill Winery 2009 Dry Riesling ($14*): Delicate nose of hay and flowers. Palate is very floral, almost perfume-y with hints of peach and mango. Great acidity and a faint slate note. Solid value.

Lenz Winery 2004 Estate Selection Merlot (*23): Rich nose that displays black cherry, blackberry and plummy fruit with hints of leather, black pepper and earthy spice. Medium bodied, with nice acidity that boosts the medium-soft tannins. Mature mouthfeel. Plummy with blackberry accents and an earthy edge. Medium-long finish with a distinct blueberry note. On day two open, a minty herbal note emerges. Great value.

Red Newt Cellars 2008 Curry Creek Vineyard Gewurztraminer ($38*): Lighter floral aromas accent pear, apple and candied ginger aromas with jasime and lychee on a layered nose. Wears it's 14.7% abv very well. Ripe, lush fruit up front with pear and citrus notes. Spice, flowers and lychee support and bring nuance. Mouth-watering finish shows a bit of melon as well.

Red Newt Cellars 2009 Lahoma Vineyards Riesling ($20*): Feathery aromas of lime, start fruit and faint flintiness. Definitely off-dry style, but great acidic edge that slices through fresh apple, star fruit and lime flavors. Long, apple-y finish. Well balanced, if just a bit one-dimensional.

Red Tail Ridge Winery 2010 Chardonnay "Sans Oak" ($12): Ripe, sweet-smelling yellow apples and starfruit on the nose. Light to medium bodied and very juicy. Apple-starfruit combo on the palate as well, with citrusy acidity and a clean, mouth-watering finish. Simple, but tasty and very well priced.

Red Tail Ridge Winery 2009 Dry Riesling ($19*): Juicy pear on the nose with a squirt of lime and a sprinkle of candied ginger. Dry, but not austere, on the palate with good but not quite crackling acidity. More juicy lime on the palate with apple, pear and lime candy. Long finish. Well done.

Robibero Family Vineyards 2008 Pinot Noir ($17*): Red cherries, cola, black tea and spicy oak on the nose. Soft and silky palate with low tannins and just enough acidity. Straightforward red berry fruit is a bit hidden by oak, but only barely. Good for the price.

Robibero Family Vineyards 2010 "87 North" ($13*): Blend of 50% Cayuga and 50% Vidal. Big honeydew melon aromas on the nose with a little citrus and pear. Pears and melons dominate the palate too, which shows bright, citrusy acidity. Not long, but finishes cleanly with pears and apples. Simple, but fresh.

Robibero Family Vineyards 2010 Riesling ($16*): Very peachy nose with subtle floral and lemon-lime aromas. Peach dominates the palate as well with sweet citrus and fennel notes. Off-dry but not clunky or cloying. Good acidity that doesn't quite scrub the palate clean. Medium-short finish that is all peaches.  

Tousey Winery 2010 Chardonnay ($16*): Taut on the nose with yellow apple and pear, with a bit of butterscotch and caramel apple. Bit dilute on the palate with good acidity. wood is subtle and comes across as caramelized sugar/vanilla. Lacks fruit somewhat. Fresh finish.  

Ventosa Vineyards 2007 Saggio ($26): Blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, syrah and sangiovese. Nose is surprisingly un-fruity for the vintage with tobacco, dark earth, and oak overwhelming some dark fruit aromas. Lacks fruit on the palate as well. Chewy, tight tannins. Some cherry cola flavor but a lot of oak and earth. Very dry. More fruit emerged on the second day, but by third day the wine had faded overall. 

Zugibe Vineyards 2009 Pinot Gris ($15): White flowers, pears and apples mingle on the fresh, clean nose. Nice pear and white flower flavors on the palate with a little honey. Sizzling acidity -- almost too much -- and slightly off-dry on the mid-palate. Somewhat short finish but pear skin and orange peel notes.