New York Cork Report

The New York Cork Report Tasting Table -- April 17, 2012

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

I keep trying to retire the "Tasting Table" series, but my recently chaotic day job along with the all-consuming reality of an infant and a 5-year old have once again reminded me that no matter how obsessed I am with local wines, beers etc. and this website -- it's still a hobby. Add to that the fact that we'll be cutting over to our new site design and platform soon (maybe even next week) and Tasting Table remains a valuable tool. I'd like to start things off at the new site fresh. Tasting Table will not be a part of the new NYCR, but it will be here. At least one more time.

As always, these are wines that crossed the NYCR tasting table at some point recently but for one reason or another, will not be reviewed in standalone posts. The notes are more or less straight from my notebook.

Atwater Estate Vineyards 2009 Riewurz ($18): Blend of 60% gewurzt, 40% riesling. Gingery nose with rose petals, grapefruit and lime. Medium-light body that starts out very gewurzt-y but finish is all riesling. Good balance, but lacks a bit of focus. Unique and tasty. Long finish of apple, peach and lime.

Atwater Estate Vineyards 2010 Dry Riesling ($16): Green apple, sweet lime and a little fennel frond on the nose. Feather light palate with more apple-lime flavors with notes of peach, fennel and slate. Good acidity and a dry finish that lingers gently.

Billsboro Winery 2010 Pinot Gris ($17): Grapefruit, citrus blossom and sweet apricot on a medium-light nose. Candied lemon leads the way with peach and light floral flavors beneath. Show a little of the RS (1.2%) on mid-palate but mostly dry on the finish. Good acidity but somewhat short finish.

Billsboro Winery 2010 Riesling ($16): Tangerine, grapefruit and pineapple on the nose. Grapefruit and orange peel flavors on the palate with slightly tropical hints. Shows RS (2.3%) but isn't cloying. Citrusy acidity brings balance. Somewhat showy style.

Grapes of Roth 2005 Merlot ($50): Nose of licorice, black cherry, leaf tobacco and pencil shavings/graphite. Ripe but not jammy, showing mixed cherry/cherry pit and tobacco flavors. Medium bodied with medium-intense tannins that are well integrated. Graphite/rocky finish that is long and shows a bit of dried herb as well.

Hudson-Chatham Winery 2010 Casscles Vineyard Reserve Baco Noir ($24): Sour cherry, cranberry, toasty oak, black pepper and vanilla on the nose. Medium body with lively acidity. Crunchy red fruit with black pepper and earth. Juice mid-palate but perhaps a bit short on the finish.

Hudson-Chatham Winery 2010 Field Stone Baco Noir ($30): Dark fruit -- black cherry and plum -- with mustard seed, violets and curry spice. Soft and lush with forward fruit, low tannins and just enough acidity. Plum, juicy and fruity. Long finish with subtle vanilla character.

Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars 2010 Round Rock Riesling ($20): Minerally, slate-y nose with hints of yellow apple, lemon balm and tonic water. Generous palate with solid focus. Citrus and herbs mingle with pear and light peach flavors. Light RS brings weight. A bit more acidity would elevate.

Millbrook Vineyards 2008 Cabernet Franc ($18): Plum, blackberry, vanilla, dried leaves and brown spices on the nose. Medium body with plum and blackberry fruit flavors. Medium tannins that are well incorporated. Finish is of medium length with a hint of toasted, slightly bitter oak.

Millbrook Vineyards 2010 Pinot Noir ($18): Nose of macerated strawberries, black cherry and button mushroom. Toasty, bitter oak a bit too heavy on top of dark, intense cherry flavors and big, dry tannins.

Millbrook Vineyards 2010 Tocai Friulano ($16): Clementines, persimmon, melon and peach aromas on a very fruity nose. Melange of peach, orange, lemon and pear on the palate. Fresh acidity that lingers. Simple and fruity, but also quite tasty.

Palaia Vineyards 2007 Traminette ($15): Very floral on the nose with slightly foxy aromas I don't usually find in traminette. One-note floral flavors with a bit of RS and not enough acidity. Ends up being soft and a bit watery on the finish.

Pindar Vineyards 2010 Viognier ($25): The nose shows just-cut melon, honeysuckle, spiced peach tea and subtle nuttiness. Sweet melon, spice and honeysuckle on the palate with a squirt of juicy citrus and spiced nuts. Very ripe on the mid-palate and the oak is restrained. Finish is a bit hot, but a note of hay is interesting at the end.

Raphael 2010 First Label Sauvignon Blanc ($26): Lemon, green apple and kiwi fruit aromas with honey and blanched almond notes. Fuller bodied and very citrusy. Bit lean on flavor but good balance. Slight saline quality to finish, that turns just a bit bitter.

Red Tail Ridge Winery 2010 Semi-Sweet Riesling ($14): Apricot -- fresh and dried -- with hints of mango and lime on the nose. Friendly style with gobs of sweet, juicy fruit -- apricot, peach and pineapple. Rich mid-palate but nice cut of acidity on the finish to bring just enough focus. Finish is pretty long.

Roanoke Vineyards 2010 "The Wild" Chardonnay ($20): Light vanilla over top of peach, apple and high-toned herbs. Medium body with butterscotch and ripe, juicy fruit. Medium-long finish with nice acidity and balance. Appetite-whetting finisih with pineapple and Asian pear notes.

Sherwood House Vineyards 2008 Chardonnay ($30): Pure pear aromas accented by vanilla, toasty oak and roasted hazelnuts. Round, opulent palate with nice, integrated acidity to keep it balanced. Pear and toffee flavors lead into more nuts and vanilla. Long finish with crisp apple and a bit of lemon zest at the very end.

Shinn Estate Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon ($41): Blueberry and cassis aromas mingle with notes of smoked meat, chicory coffee and dark chocolate. Hefty and slightly hot (15.4%) on the palate, showing fruit that edges on over-ripe but holds on, with chocolate, coffee and oak notes. Ripe, slightly edgy tannins provide structure. After a few hours open, a pretty minty note emerges.

Shinn Estate Vineyards 2010 Haven ($36): 84% sauvignon blanc with 16% semillon. Complex nose of melon, fig, nutty oak, dried apricot and golden raisin. Rich and dry on the palate, it shows dried fruit and nut flavors layered on top of melon and peach. A bit more acidity would help enliven the palate.

Wolffer Estate Vineyards 2008 "Caya" Cabernet Franc ($40): Cherries, tobacco, sweet cedar and green peppercorn aromas lead into medium-light body with similar flavors with caramel added. Lacks fruit just a bit, but well made.

Zugibe Vineyards 2008 Dry Riesling ($13): Citrus and petrol aromas dominate. Not big on flavor -- again mostly citrus and petrol. Dry with very good acidity and focus. Right on the edge of the "citrus water" style of dry riesling.

Zugibe Vineyards 2009 Late Harvest Riesling ($22): Honey, botrytis and pineapple on the nose. Shows its RS, but finishes nearly dry. Very botrytis driven with secondary flavors of apricot, peach and pineapple. Long finish with orange and spice. Want a bit more acid and perhaps a bit mature for a 2009, but delicious.

Zugibe Vineyards 2008 Semi-Dry Riesling ($13): Nose shows citrus and apricot with hints of petrol. Palate is peachy but not intense, with light layers of lime and honey. Off-dry with good-no-great acidity.

Empire State Cellars Wine Club: May 2012 Selections

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

The May shipment of the Empire State Cellars Wine Club won't ship for a few weeks, but from now on, we're going to announce the selecitons at least a few weeks beforehand. That way, if you're not already a member but want the wines, you'll have time to join!

If you're not familiar with the club, you can learn more here.

"Hello New York" Wines

Channing Daughters Winery 2010 Scuttlhole Chardonnay: I prefer my chardonnay unadorned and clean -- usually the less oak the better. Winemaker Chris Tracy makes an array of chardonnays, but this one is my favorites -- all steel with ample fruit, a minerally vein and juicy acidity.

Medolla Vineyards 2007 Merlot: You may not know this one-wine winery, but Medolla is a name to know when it comes to value merlot on Long Island. Pure and expressive, this merlot is ripe, but not too ripe, showing restrained oak and good length with gently grippy tannins.

"Getting to Know New York" Wines

Lieb Family Cellars 2010 10th Anniversary Pinot Blanc: Complex with layers of almond, white pepper and candied orange peel sprinkled over juicy pears, this wine -- made for the first time to celebrate the winery's 10th anniversary -- balances richness with juicy acidity, resulting in a beautiful mouthfeel.

Lenz Winery 2007 Estate Selection Merlot: Eric Fry's winemaking is decidedly low-tech, and that hands-off approach lets this wine shine. Plump and juicy -- with little noticeable oak -- this is a wine that over-delivers with it's aromas and of red and black cherry, plums and a bit of blueberry compote. 

"New York Wine Trail" Wines

Paumanok Vineyards 2011 Chenin Blanc: The Massoud family has a cult following for this wine, one that expresses vintage variation as much as any on Long Island. While the 2010 was rich with sweet tropical fruit, this edition is more citrusy and saline with hints of melon. Local oysters dream about this wine.

Arrowhead Spring Vineyards 2010 Syrah: Think Rhone rather than Australia with this wine from Niagara. Though young -- an hour or two in a decanter, or a few years in your cellar wouldn't hurt -- it shows beautiful, rich fruit, peppery spice and the kind of heft you want to heartier meals.

"Excelsior" Wines

Anthony Road Wine Company 2009 Martini-Reinhardt Selection Riesling: Really only available in the Anthony Road tasting room, we were able to procure a small parcel of this pure, complex and lengthy riesling that is absolutely delicious today but will reward those patient enough to cellar it. Simply stunning.

The Grapes of Roth 2005 Merlot: Veteran winemaker Roman Roth's personal label built its reputation on merlot. This elegant, nuanced merlot comes from Sam McCullough's vineyard and features cherry, licorice, tobacco, subtle dried herbs and graphite aromas and flavors. Again -- you can drink it today or park it in your cellar.

If you haven't signed up for the club yet, fear not. You can still get in on this first shipment. Email Katherine Jaeger, Manager of Wine Clubs, at [email protected] and she will take good care of you. And remember, you can customize your club to include just red or whites wines too if you'd like.

Cabernet Franc "Flat Leaf" at Shinn Estate Vineyards (April 17, 2012)

Photo courtesy of Shinn Estate Vineyards

Shinn Estate Vineyards 2008 Nine Barrels Merlot

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

With so many communication channels at our finger tips these days (Facebook, Twitter, email, etc.) it feels like I'm discussing local wines with people almost constantly. 

It's fun, but I've noticed something recently -- great vintages can cause an interesting side effect. The other, 'non-great' vintages can very easily be looked down upon or ignored altogehter.

2007 and 2010 were among the best vintages ever for Long Island. We all know that by now. But, because many 2007 reds have come and gone, and 2010 reds are trickling into the marketplace, it's almost like 2008 and 2009 didn't happen.

Don't make that mistake. The 2008 and 2009 growing years both presented their own unique challenges to local growers and winemakers, but most years do. And any region's best producers will make quality wine consistently in even the more challenging vintages. 

Take this Shinn Estate Vineyards 2008 Nine Barrels Reserve Merlot ($43) for instance. Following the ripe 2007 year, many consider 2008 to be underripe. Not so.

The nose is dominated by dark fruit -- think blackberry, cassis and black cherry -- chocolate and toasty oak. There is a peppery edge too, but it's black pepper, not green.

That spicy, peppery quality is even more pronouned on the medium-bodied palate, layered with fruit flavors of plum, black cherry and blackberry. The oak is a bit too evident for me right now -- in a raw, barrel sort of way -- but given the slightly chewy tannins, this wine has a chance to develop and integrate over the next several years. Showing decent length now, the finish is a bit bacony as well.

Looking at my tasting notebook, the last thing I wrote for this wine was "Definitely re-taste in a year." Of course, knowing how rabid Shinn's fans are, I may not get to do that unless I buy it now.

Producer: Shinn Estate Vineyards 
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
ABV: 13.7%
Cases: 225
Price: $43*

 

(3 out of 5, Very good/Recommended)

(*Ratings Guide)

 

 

Merlot Bud Break at Macari Vineyards (April 6, 2012)

Assistant vineyard manager Eric Anderson snapped this picture in Macari Vineyards' merlot vineyard this morning. 

EVENT ANNOUNCEMENT: Paumanok Vineyards Wine Dinner at Almond April 19

The next Paumanok Vineyards wine dinner will be at Almond, in Bridgehampton, on Thursday, April 19.

We are excited to pair Paumanok wines with the delicious Hamptons French bistro fare that chef Jason Weiner prepares at Almond.  

Wines served will include some of Paumanok's most popular, including chenin blanc and one of Paumanok's top red wines, the 2007 Assemblage.

The meal will conclude with Paumanok's 2009 Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, nearly sold out and recently served at The White House.  

Paumanok Wine Dinner at Almond
Thursday, April 19, 2012, 7 p.m.

Asparagus and Leek Vinaigrette
pecorino toscano, green goddess dressing
PAUMANOK 2011 SAUVIGNON BLANC 

Striped Bass
baby artichokes, casino butter, basil toast
PAUMANOK 2011 CHENIN BLANC 

Leg of Lamb
fava beans, chickpeas, baby carrots, wilted rocket, thyme jus
PAUMANOK 2007 ASSEMBLAGE 

Strawberry Shortcake
ginger creme fraiche, rhubarb syrup
PAUMANOK 2009 LATE HARVEST SAUVIGNON BLANC 

$65 per person (plus tax and gratuity).
Call (631) 537-5665 for reservations.

Merlot Bud Break at Shinn Estate Vineyards (April 6, 2012)

Photo courtesy of Shinn Estate Vineyards

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

What was mere speculation and conjecture just a few weeks ago is now a reality on the North Fork. 

Shinn Estate Vineyards' David Page sent me this photo this morning of bud break in their estate merlot vineyard, marking what appears to be the earliest bud break Long Island wine country has ever seen. The grape-growing process is a marathon, not a sprint, but the North Fork is certainly out of the gate early. 

Now local growers get to stress over nighttime low temperatures for the next month or so, hoping to avoid crippling frosts that could decimate their crops.

Hopefully we'll get some more bud break pictures from across the state as it happens. Stay tuned.

Artisanal Cheese Pairing Event at Peconic Bay Winery

NYCR cheese editor, Aaron Estes, addressing the crowd at Peconic Bay Winery

By Aaron Estes, Cheese Editor

As a cheese geek I am continually preoccupied with the age-old question that plagues the majority of the cheese obsessed here in New York and elsewhere:  “What makes the better cheese pairing?  Wine or Beer?” 

I am clearly not alone in this as a sold-out crowd was on hand at the Artisanal Cheese wine and beer pairing event this past weekend, hosted by Peconic Bay Winery.

Working with The Village Cheese Shop in Mattituck, and Greenport Harbor Brewing, the staff at Peconic Bay chose four cheeses and subsequently paired them with complementary beer and wine. It was a pretty perfect setup. Each taster was given the opportunity to taste in a controlled setting with the winemaker, brewmaster, and cheesemonger on hand to answer any related questions. 

For those of you who were not able to attend, here are the pairings:

Flight 1

Harbor Ale

Dry Riesling

Madeline – Sprout Creek Farm, NY

Flight 2

Black Duck Porter

La Barrique Chardonnay

Ossau Iraty – Pyrenees, France

Flight 3

Chinook Red

Nautique Rouge

Goot Essa Cheddar – Millheim, PA

Flight 4

Carnard Noir

2009 Merlot

Gorgonzola Dolce – Lombardi, Italy

Acting as emcee for the event, I focused on guiding people through the elements of tasting, discussing the primary philosophy behind beverage pairing with cheese, and generally keeping questions and discussions moving along. 

A key success factor for something like this is the educational value that attendees have come to expect.  The multitude of questions ranging from cheese storage to beverage tasting temperatures indicated to me that this crowd was here to explore and learn.

As far as the pairings are concerned, all were successful to some degree in that there weren’t any distinct “clashes.”  I have said before and I will say again, I believe that beer is a better pairing with cheese in that it is more forgiving due to the carbonation. Generally, pairing beer with cheese is more about balance, whereas pairing wine with cheese revolves around highlighting complementing and contrasting flavor profiles.  When wine and cheese works together it absolutely sings. When it doesn’t, you can tell immediately, much in the same way as to when a bottle of wine is “corked.” There is a metallic, tin can clash on your tongue.  No singing here…

The pairing of the day for me, surprisingly enough, was the Goot Essa cheddar with the Nautique Rouge. When I saw this duo on the list, I had immediate reservations. Cheddar and red wine is a difficult pairing due to levels of acidity. If the acidity and funkiness from the cheddar overwhelms the acidity and fruit from the wine, the pairing is out of balance.

The young and juicy fruit from the Nautique Rouge blended perfectly with the smooth and mildly earthy paste.  I would have thought that the beer would stand out as a hoppy beer with cheddar is my favorite pairing by far. This pairing was so enjoyable, that I brought a couple bottles of the Nautique Rouge back with me to experiment.

Overall, a great time was had by all. Events like this make pairing cheese with wine and/or beer more approachable, especially for those who would like to try it at home. 

The most important lesson to take away is this: It’s not rocket science. We are talking about cheese, beer and wine.  Traditional pairings are recommendations, but by no means a gospel. If you like a particular cheese and beer/wine together, then that is a good pairing for you. Write down the ones you like (and don’t like) and go from there. Don’t be afraid to experiment! 

I look forward to future events such as this as they provide a stage for local producers to celebrate their craft and share with the local community.

 

 

EVENT ANNOUNCEMENT: Multi-Winery Sparkling Wine Dinner at Restaurant Mirabelle

On Friday, April 13 four Long Island wineries -- Jamesport Vineyards, Lenz Winery, Sparkling Pointe and Wolffer Estate -- present "Long Island Sparkles" a sparkling wine dinner at Restaurant Mirabelle in Stony Brook, NY.

For $80 (plus tax and gratuity) diners will enjoy an amuse bouche and four courses paired with a diverse group of sparkling wines.

For reservations, call  631.751.0555.

 

"Long Island Sparkles"
April 13 at Restaurant Mirabelle

Mascarpone and Basil-Filled Crêpe, American Sturgeon Caviar
Wolffer Estate Vineyard 2007 Sparkling Brut Blanc de Blanc

Caramelized Sea Scallop, Ajo Bianco, Peas and Sea Bean Ragout
Lenz Winery 2005 Cuvee

Shrimp Mousse-Stuffed Sole, Cabbage Fondue, Sparkling Wine Sauce
Jamesport Vineyard 2008 Sparkling Syrah

Spring Baby Lamb, Honey-Glazed Thumbelina carrots, Thai Basil, Preserved Lemons, Yukon Gold Potato Purée
Sparkling Pointe Vineyards 2002 Brut Seduction

Raspberry Tartlet, Fromage Blanc Ice Cream, Raspberry Coulis
Sparkling Pointe Vineyards NV Cuvee Carnaval

 

 

Bedell Cellars 2010 Syrah

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Winemaker Rich Olsen-Harbich did some things differently during his first crush at Bedell Cellars in 2010. He brought his ambient yeast fermentations, of course, but he also made a couple blends by co-fermenting the grapes -- making his blending decisions from the outset.

Bedell Cellars 2010 Syrah ($50) is one of those wines, made with 90% syrah and 10% viognier in the model of the Northern Rhone. 

That squirt of viognier is most apparently on a pretty, effusive nose that shows melon and honeysuckle aromas layered over fresh red berries, plums and a combination of earthy cumin and coriander. The distinct black pepper aromas found in most local syrah are but a mere shadow here -- there, but lurking in the background.

Earthy and savory, the somewhat juicy, medium-bodied palate delivers crunchy red fruit -- think red cherry and cranberry -- with a bit more pepper showing next to subtle floral qualities. The medium-length finish shows more of that earthy-spicy combination. 

I find myself wanting perhaps a bit more structure, but there is enough acidity to frame the flavors and keep it all together. 

Producer: Bedell Cellars 
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
ABV: 13%
Cases: 150
Price: $50*

 

(3 out of 5, Very good/Recommended)

(*Ratings Guide)

 

 

EVENT ANNOUNCEMENT: Sparkling Pointe Presents Grower Sparkling Grand Tasting, April 21

Grower Champagnes and sparkling wines are those produced by the same estate that owns the vineyards and grows the grapes. While the large Champagne houses may use grapes sourced from the entire Champagne Region producing large quantities of big name bubbles, Grower Wines are characterized by small production artisanal winemaking with terroir -- the idea that the weather, soil, and environmental influences gives a vineyard an identifiable character -- being at the forefront for each wine.

Join us Saturday, April 21 from 6 - 8 p.m. for a unique tasting of Champagnes and Sparkling Wines produced from the grapes owned and grown by the estate.

Learn about the concept of terroir as our panel of grape growers, winemakers, sommeliers, and industry experts lead a discussion and tasting of these unique Grower sparkling wines.

A cheese board will accompany the tasting, sponsored by Sprout Creek Farms and First and South Restaurant in Greenport.

Details

When: Saturday April 21, 6 - 8 p.m.
Where: Sparkling Pointe Tasting House, 39750 County Road 48, Southold, NY 11971, 631.765.0200
Cost: $80 per person ($65 for Sparkling Pointe Wine Club Members), Reservations: Required
Contact: Melissa Schwartz [email protected]

April 5: NYCR Artisan Dinner with Anthony Nappa Wines at Orto

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

After taking a bit of a winter break, we're happy to announce the next in our series of New York Cork Report Artisan Dinners -- this one with Anthony Nappa Wines at Orto, Chef Eric Lomando's new restaurant in Miller Place.

Nappa, who many of you know as the former winemaker for Shinn Estate, has been making wine under his own label for a few vintages now. He brings a diverse winemaking background -- having made wine in New Zealand, Southern Italy, California and Massachusetts -- and has a bit of a cult following for his white pinot noir, named Anomaly.

Join us on Thursday, April 5 at 7 p.m. and enjoy Lomando's five-course menu paired with four of Nappa's wines -- including the newly released 2011 Anomaly and sold out 2010 "Bordo" Cabernet Franc -- and an English strong ale that he brewed.

Tickets are $55 plus tax and gratuity. Please call 631-862-0151 for reservations. 

 

NYCR Artisan Dinner with Anthony Nappa Wines
April 5, 2012 at 7 p.m. @ Orto

Fava Bean and Pecorino Salad

2011 Anomaly

 

Tender Braised Beef Milanese with Pickled Vegetables 

English Strong Ale

 

Sauteed Shrimp with Chorizo and Anson Mills White Corn Polenta

2010 "Spezia" Gewurztraminer

 

Grilled Pork Loin with Roasted Sunchokes, Spring Onions and Bacon Jus

2010 "Bordo" Cabernet Franc

 

Just-Made Ricotta with Honey and Raisin Walnut Bread

 2010 "Luminous" Riesling

 

$55 plus tax and gratuity. Call 631-862-0151 for reservations.

Long Island Vineyards Could See Early Bud Break in 2012

Photo Courtesy of Bedell Cellars

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

The earliest anyone can remember seeing bud break in Long Island vineyards was mid-April in 2010 -- a vintage that ended up being one of the longest and warmest on record. Bud break in 2010 was about two weeks earlier than average.

But, after a mild winter and with temperatures currently in the upper-50s and 60s this week -- Long Island vineyards could see bud break even earlier in 2012. 

"The potential for an early bud break this year appears higher than normal. If the weather continues to trend the way it has over the winter season it is increasingly likely that an early bud break will occur," said David Page of Shinn Estate Vineyards, where bud break occurred on April 17 in 2010.

A mild winter and this current string of warm weather doesn't necessarily mean early bud break, however.

According to Alice Wise Sr. Resource Educator for the viticulture program at Cornell Cooperative Extension of Suffolk County bud break is "related to a certain number of days with the average temperatures greater than 50 degrees Fahrenheit. But there is no magic formula to predict when it will occur. There are likely other physiological processes at play as well. An early bud break is a possibility but it is difficult to predict. Depends on the weather over the next month."

Channing Daughters Winery partner and CEO -- and soil scientist -- Larry Perrine echoes that wait-and-see approach. "Are we at risk for an earlier bud break in 2012?  Only the next 3 weeks or so will tell," said in an email yesterday, adding "However, with sustained warmer than average temperatures, as we are having, bud break can be up to two weeks earlier than average."

In and of itself, early bud break isn't a problem. In fact, some of the earliest bud breaks have occurred in years like 2007 and 2010, considered among the region's best. An early start offers the potential for a long, even ripening process. It also mitigates the impact less-than-optimal growing conditions later in the season can have on the overall vintage.

That's the bright side of early bud break. The risk is hard frost in the spring -- after bud break -- which could significantly damage buds and just-forming leaves -- greatly reducing crop size. Entire blocks or even vineyards could be lost. 

For now, Rich Olsen-Harbich, winemaker at Bedell Cellars, is focusing on the positive possibilities, saying "The beauty of eastern Long Island is that we rarely experience frost problems. That’s one of the big reasons we’re so successful growing wine grapes here – our spring temperatures usually prevent that from happening."

A lot can happen after bud break, but Olsen-Harbich also reminds us that it's still very early and a lot can happen between now and when buds open. "I’ve also seen things warm up early only to be set back with weeks of cold April weather. One thing I do know is that there no two years are the same on the North Fork. That’s what makes it so challenging, interesting and exciting to grow grapes here. As for this year?  We’ll see!"

 

New York Drinks New York -- Reader Feedback: Len Dest, Former Director Long Island Merlot Alliance

Editor's note: Our own Tracy Weiss attended New York Drinks New York yesterday at Astor Center in Manhattan, and we'll have her story ready to go either later today or tomorrow. In the meantime, we have issued an open invite to any readers who attended to send us their thoughts. This is the first in what we hope is a series of posts.

By Len Dest, Former Director of Long Island Merlot Alliance

We participated in the New York Drinks New York on Monday 12 March at the Astor Center in Manhattan. The event was a great success with significant “to the trade” activity in the afternoon and, for the 350 lucky members of the public (sold out) in the evening, a great sampling of the wines of New York. Approximately 40 wineries from each region of New York participated in the pours, with strong participation from the Finger Lakes producers.

In discussions with both owners and winemakers from the Finger Lakes region, it is clear that the overall campaign by the New York Wine and Grape Foundation is having a very major positive impact on establishing new merchant channels and overall increased distribution lines for these upstate wineries. 

While mass events such as New York Drinks New York make it difficult to develop in depth understanding of any winery's wine, they does provide for an overall assessment of the general winemaking approaches and perhaps evolving trends.

As expected, lean wines with lower alcohol levels which are typical of New York wines, are being featured based upon current national and international trends. 

Some Observations:

1. The Long Island wineries were in general very conservative with what they poured. The 2007 100% merlot Tuthills Lane Vineyard from Paumanok Vineyards was and is a powerhouse red. However, few of the big 2010 reds were being poured. The exceptions and highlight was Channing Daughters. Larry Perrine and Chris Tracy were pouring some amazing wines; 2010 Blaufrankisch Mudd West Vineyard (well balanced flavors and acidity), 2010 Due Uve (spectacular red blend) 2010 Sylvanus (amazing flavors), and three of their rosatos. A bright star in the event.
2. From the Hudson River Valley, Millbrook’s 2010 Pinot Noir made from Finger Lakes fruit is very interesting; light and lean but with considerable fruit benefitting from the warm 2010 season.
3. Rare to find 2011 Gewürztraminer from Thousand Islands Winery and 2010 Cabernet Franc from Leonard Oakes Estate from the Niagara Escarpment.
4. Scores of outstanding Finger Lake wines including; Dr. Konstantin Frank’s wonderful sparkling wine the 2006 Chateau Franc Blanc de Noirs made with 96% pinot noir, a delightful 2010 100% pinot gris from Sheldrake Point, wonderful Riesing from Fox Run , Lamoreaux Landing, and Red Newt; interesting 2008 Gewürztraminers from Standing Stone and Red Newt (Curry Creek Vineyards), and some very interesting and enjoyable Finger Lake reds including 2009 Lemberger from Fox Run, 2008 76 West blend from Lamoreaux Landing and the red blend 2008 Eclipse Red from Herron Hill. 
5. The absolute star from the Finger Lakes -- and probably the overall event -- were the wines from Johannes Reinhardt at Anthony Road. We had the distinct pleasure of Johannes pouring and describing for us each of the wines served; 2009 Spontaneous Riesling, 2009 Martini-Reinhardt Riesling, the 2010 semi-dry Riesling, 2011 Rose of Cab Franc and an outstanding -- but still young -- 2010 Cabernet Franc/Leberger that capture not only Johannes' style but a strong European influence that makes his wines outstanding.

It was a great event celebrating New York Wines. Kudos to Chris Tracy and Johannes Reinhardt for making a promotional event something special.

The Most Important Store in the State: Buzz Growing for Empire State Cellars

By Evan Dawson, Managing Editor

It is unusual for a single wine store to become such a focus for an entire state. More unusual still when the store is not located in New York City. Since returning home from the Wines of the Year weekend on Long Island, no fewer than three wine industry professionals from the Finger Lakes have asked me, "Did you go to Empire State Cellars?" Or, "What was it like?" Or, "Was it as cool a place as I'm hoping it is?" They are intrigued by the idea of the only wine store in the state that offers exclusively New York products.

This is more than the story of a wine store in Riverhead, Long Island. Lenn has covered the opening of Empire State Cellars already, and the store is the supplier for the new and expanded Empire State Cellars Wine Club. Rather, this is a look at an experiment. And, to be frank, it's an experiment that the New York wine industry desperately needs to succeed.

That's because there is doubt about whether the locavore movement ought to include wine. Empire State Cellars is not at the heart of the locavore movement, but it will serve as a crucial kind of test: Will consumers gravitate toward New York wines, and will they keep coming back? Lenn has written extensively about the local movement in restaurants. Wine Spectator's James Molesworth wrote about the disconnect between local food and local wine last summer, concluding, "It's time for sommeliers and retailers to show some support for the efforts of these growers."

Success at Empire State Cellars has the potential to reach far beyond its store walls. Restaurants will notice. Other stores might be moved to increase their focus on New York wine. Success begets success.

It's early, but there are good signs. Jim Silver, who has brought the store from vision to brick-and-mortar reality, has invited winemakers from across the state to pour their wines and engage customers at weeknight and weekend events. Some events are inevitably sparsely attended, but that's to be expected for a new venture.

However, some events are exceeding expectations by any measure. Recently, Arrowhead Spring Vineyards from Niagara held what owner Duncan Ross calls "one of our best events ever, anywhere" at ESC. Consider that: A small winery from the far corner of New York state goes to the opposite end of the state, eight-plus hours by car, and blows the doors off. Duncan and his wife Robin were thrilled with the turnout -- and the quality of the interaction.

"The customers were fantastic," Duncan tells me. "We had a record crowd for our tasting, which made us feel so welcome. And it certainly made the long drive worthwhile. We had lots of great questions and interaction during the tasting."

The event offered Duncan and Robin a chance to see the store up close after hearing the hype. They were not disappointed.

"Just to be surrounded by so much great New York product was inspiring," Duncan says. "The layout of the store was superb, with educational materials and a wonderful tasting bar. The staff is obviously passionate about New York wines. It was a lot of fun talking with them."

That last point is key. Silver has worked hard to ensure a knowledgeable staff well versed in wines from all New York wine regions. On my visit, I was equally impressed. One employee smiled and told me, "One customer walked around for ten minutes before finally asking, 'Where are the Chilean wines?' But they're open to our suggestions, and we've already seen repeat business."

Peter Bell, winemaker at Fox Run Vineyards in the Finger Lakes, also made the trek to Riverhead on a recent weekend. "I loved the place," he says. "There is a great vibe there. They're obviously dedicated to the love of wine without being stodgy." More winemakers are preparing to visit this month: Red Newt Cellars will be pouring tomorrow, Atwater Estate Vineyards on Saturday, Dr. Frank on the March 17, and Peconic Bay on the 22. (Silver is the General Manager at Peconic Bay.)

From a purely aesthetic standpoint, the store is remarkable. It's among the nicest wine stores I've ever visited. Even more exciting is the fact that ESC offers hard-to-find wines; you can buy Hargrave Vineyard wines from the 1980s or you can pick up the sold-out Bloomer Creek Rieslings from the 2009 vintage. The options are almost overwhelming. This store is not about boosting New York; it's about promoting quality wines, period.

But Silver has to be a pragmatist. He won't offer Kendall Jackson Chardonnay, but he offers Red Cat, and it has already become a top seller. Perhaps Red Cat will be a bridge to finer New York wines, but at the very least, it will be a bill payer.

Ultimately, Empire State Cellars will only succeed if the local clientele embraces the concept while the rest of the state continues to support the effort. There are no sure things in business. The industry is wise to support this store. After all, many people have wondered if such a store were possible. In Riverhead, we're finding out.

Lenz Winery 2007 Estate Selection Merlot

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

If you're looking for innovative, modern winemaking or flashy branding, The Lenz Winery probably isn't for you. Lenz isn't in the Long Island Wine Council and isn't particularly active on channels like Facebook and Twitter.

Instead, Lenz has relied on winemaker Eric Fry and his traditional, Old World-styled wines and the periodic, well-publicized blind tasting against top Boredeaux, to build its reputation. And it's worked. Lenz has a devoted following and Eric's reds are often among the most complex in the region.

Carrying on a tradition of well-priced, age-worthy merlot, Lenz Winery 2007 Estate Selection Merlot ($24) offers aromas of sweet cherry, violets and plums, with just a little note of oak in the background.

Plump and juicy with fresh acidity and soft, supple tannins, the palate brings a bit of blueberry to the red and black fruit party. With some time in the glass, an earthy note emerges, adding a layer of complexity to the superior mouthfeel and long finish.

As this wine often is, this is approachable now, but will reward time in your cellar. I have a few bottles of the 2001 left in my cellar and the last one I opened was still alive and developing.

Producer: The Lenz Winery
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
ABV: 13%  
Price: $24*

(3.5 out of 5 | Very Good, Recommended to Outstanding and Delicious, Highly Recommended)

(Ratings Guide)

Sparkling Pointe and Pork Belly Benedict Take Over at Wading River's La Plage

By Dave Seel, Long Island Food Correspondent

It seems every time I decide to eat at La Plage, I can’t remember how to get there. It’s somewhere near Wading River by the beach, hence the name “La Plage,” but the exact route I take always seems to allude me. Eventually though, I do happen upon Sound Road that winds me to the small restaurant.

For years now, Chef Wayne Wadington has been making waves across the North Shore with his eclectic, French-inspired cuisine. Clean, straightforward and always delicious, Wadington's food is based upon fresh, seasonal ingredients. Recently, my wife and I visited for their Valentine’s Champagne Brunch with Sparkling Pointe, Long Island’s sparkling wine-only winery.

While I have yet to visit Sparkling Pointe’s North Fork tasting room, I’ve become a fan of their sparkling wines from various tasting events around the region.

We started the brunch off with their 2007 Brut. A pale sparkling wine, it has a wonderful, balanced texture with notes of apple and pear. This was paired with gougeres as an amuse bouche. Unfortunately, the small puff alone did little to “amuse” our palate. The flavor was a bit milder than I like in gougeres. However, this mild cheese taste did help to highlight the wine, and thus served its purpose. 

We both chose the homemade lobster ravioli as our next course. I always jump at the chance to try a chef’s homemade pasta and Chef Wadington’s did not disappoint. Homemade pasta has a wonderful soft, delicate texture when made well. The ravioli melted in our mouths, giving way to delicious buttery lobster. The tomato-based sauce, created with a homemade seafood stock, had a nice creamy, briny taste that complemented the lobster perfectly.

The course was accompanied with Sparkling Pointe’s 2006 Blanc De Blancs. A beautiful golden color, this wine surprisingly held up to the brininess of the sauce and its almond, pear, and buttery notes paired perfectly with the lobster.

The best moment of the meal arrived with my main course: Berkshire pork belly eggs benedict. I still have dreams of this dish. Seriously. I do.

Crisp, smoked, maple-syrup glazed pork belly topped with perfectly poached eggs and a rich hollandaise sauce. It was eggs benedict-meets eggs with bacon, taken to a whole new level. Again, the dish was simple, but the flavor was astounding.

 

My wife’s main course was a bit more befuddling. She ordered the char-grilled yellow fin tuna salad Nicoise style. Hoping to receive a beautiful Nicoise salad topped with a piece of lightly grilled tuna, she was disappointed to see the tuna had been “mayonnaised”. Coming from a mid-western family who puts mayo on everything, she was less than thrilled. So I shared my glorious pork belly with her, which turned out to be enough for both of us.

 

I ate the rest of the salad, which was actually quite good. The grilled flavor of the tuna made it through the mayo and it was a fresh addition to the richness of the pork belly.

The main course was paired with one of Sparkling Pointe’s top wines, their 2002 Brut Seduction. Again, I was impressed when this sparkling wine stood up to the richness of my pork dish. With notes of ginger and apple, the velvety mouth feel gave a light, but flavorful complement to the savory and sweet pork belly.

We finished off the meal with a passion fruit ice cream sundae and a final tasting of Sparkling Pointe’s NV Cuvee Carnivale. The cuvee is a slighty sweeter-style sparkling wine, which generally I’m don’t prefer, but was a nice touch with our dessert. The citrus and floral notes paired well with the sweet vanilla and fruit flavors of the sundae.

Finishing with an espresso, we chatted with Sparkling Pointe winemaker, Gilles Martin. We learned Martin is now working on a 100% pinot sparkling wine to be released in the coming months. He is also hosting many tasting dinners across the region as well as at the Sparkling Pointe tasting room. It’s indicative of their commitment to making sparkling wine accessible to many palates.

After the meal, we took a short walk on the beach to take in the whole experience. The reminiscence of sparkling wine combined perfectly with the salty air of the Long Island Sound. One of the wonderful aspects of La Plage is the reflection of its place along the water in its cuisine. Alongside the beach, it merges the sea and land on a plate bringing the flavors of French cuisine and Long Island ingredients to life. Whether visiting for brunch or dinner, it’s a wonderful spot for an adventure…if you can find it, that is.

Is Wine Tasting a Family-Friendly Endeavor?

By Tracy Weiss, New York City/Long Island Correspondent
Photo by Erika Bocknek

A wine tasting experience is a sum of its parts. As I sip and swirl and slurp, the wine can only be enhanced or diminished by the elements around me. The silent quaint town of Bouzy on Easter Sunday brought the liquid gold of Paul Clouet’s Grand Cru to legendary status. A simple table wine in Barcelona was elevated when paired with tapas in a rustic café and shared with the restaurant’s owner.

I’m the oenophile who remembers more than the notes or structure or acidity after sampling. My memory is made cementing details of where I was when I tried the wine and whom I was with.

Therefore, it’s a shame the wines I liked from my first trip to Raphael -- the sauvignon blanc, La Fontana and cabernet franc -- will be marred by the attitudes I encountered from other patrons. I wasn’t speaking too loud of drinking too quickly. For the first time in my long drinking career, my group visited a winery with a new kind of companions: toddlers.

For the record, I am childless. My husband and I enjoy the freedom of going where we want, when we want. So when two of my girlfriends, their husbands and combined three children visited the East End for the first time last weekend, I painstakingly planned the day. Between Nap #1 and Nap #2, but before kiddie dinner, we’d try our luck at just a single winery.

We chose Raphael in Peconic having had their cabernet franc before and because it was nearby. If one of the kids had some sort of break down, we’d whisk them away as to not harass others enjoying their Saturday. We planned man-to-man defense and how we’d taste while distracting tiny hands from shiny wine goblets. From the website, we noted the venue was large and open. I decided wide enclosed spaces were probably safer than allowing munchkins the run of the deck at Corey Creek or somewhere similar.

Armed with some sort of organic goldfish crackers and sippy cups, we were off.

The chandeliers and ‘castle’ atmosphere of Raphael were a big hit with the almost two-year-old twins. I may have spun some sort of lie about Cinderella living there. The wrought iron tasting tables and chairs were a good fit for our group. Plentiful and not very breakable. We penned the 10-month old inside our circle of chairs and allowed him to crawl on the cold stone floor. He loved crossing the empty space from one parent to the other.

I fought my way to the bar and waited patiently. It took a while, as there were only two people to help hordes, but we managed to snag most of the tasting list. As we took our first sips of sauvignon blanc, one of the kids felt left out without a glass of her own. Water was secured and we all clinked glasses, plastic or not.

Glancing around me, I noticed a four top slightly behind us get up and move tables. Then, we started receiving death glares from a couple across the room. I couldn’t understand what prompted this….and I’m usually on their side! As a non-parent and someone who rankles at badly behaved kids in adult-type places, I sincerely couldn’t figure it out. We went out of our way to ensure the toddlers weren’t wreaking havoc on the tasting room. There was no pulling down of wine bottles or throwing of corks. They barely made a peep. Diapers remained clean. Did they disapprove pre-emptively before any nuisances could begin? Or this a deeper-seeded issue?

I am in awe of my friends turned parents. I appreciated how they kept the brood in check without yelling or calling attention. When they couldn’t contain their energy any longer, we took the walking ones outside to run circles around the winter-bare vines. Rambunctious children hanging out in places other than the playground can sometimes cause disaster, but on this day, the little people were better behaved than some of the drunken bus tasters I’ve seen on the North Fork.

If kids are shown how to act when they’re kids, perhaps they’re more likely to understand social graces as adults.

My beef has very little do to with the winery. I was simply surprised by the whispers and obvious annoyance from the crowd. And sadly, when I look back on my tasting experience THAT is what I remember. Not the blackberry blend of La Fontana or the slight rosemary tint of their cab franc.

Do you think wineries are a place for families? Or do you think kids should be banned?

The 2011 New York Cork Report Wines of the Year

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

I think I can speak for my fellow editors and contributors when I say that our 2011 Wines of the Year tasting was a fun, challenging and inspiring day of 16 wine tasting flights.

I always come away with myriad story ideas swirling in my head after this tasting. This year is no different. Look for pieces from the team over the next few weeks. 

But today, we announce the winners -- including our first-ever New York Wine of the Year, Peconic Bay Winery 2007 Lowerre Family Estate.

Our 2011 Regional Wines of the Year are:

White Wines

Hudson Valley White Wine: Oak Summit Vineyard 2010 Chardonnay
Finger Lakes White Wine: Hermann J. Wiemer 2010 Riesling Dry Reserve
Long Island White Wine: Paumanok Vineyards 2010 Sauvignon Blanc
Niagara White: Eveningside Vineyards 2010 Reserve Chardonnay

Sparkling Wines

Finger Lakes Sparkling: Chateau Frank 2006 Blanc de Noir
Long Island Sparkling: Lenz Winery 2005 Cuvee

Red Wines

Hudson Valley Red: Tousey Winery 2010 Cabernet Franc
Niagara Red: Arrowhead Spring Vineyards 2010 Pinot Noir
Finger Lakes Red: Billsboro Winery 2010 Syrah
Long Island Merlot: Paumanok Vineyards 2007 Merlot
Long Island Other Red: Peconic Bay Winery 2007 Lowerre Family Estate

Dessert Wines

Finger Lakes Dessert Wine: Atwater Estate Vineyards 2010 Celsius
Long Island Dessert Wine: Wolffer Estate 2009 Laica

After we tasted each of these flights, the style winners were re-poured and tasted together to choose state-wide winners -- but only if the voting wine editors were unanimous. That happened twice this year:

New York Sparkling Wine of the Year: Chateau Frank 2006 Blanc de Noir
New York Red Wine of the Year: Peconic Bay Winery 2007 Lowerre Family Estate

Then, after a lengthy discussion, we decided unanimously that the Peconic Bay Winery 2007 Lowerre Family Estate was deserving of being named the 2011 New York Cork Report Wine of the Year. We'll have a post later this week about the discussion and why we chose this year and this wine.

Congratulations to all of the winners -- and keep an eye on the site for most post-tasting coverage.

 

T'Jara Vineyards Joins Long Island Merlot Alliance

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Yesterday, the Long Island Merlot Alliance (LIMA) announced that T’Jara Vineyards label has joined the merlot promotion group.

That means that two barrels of 2010 T’Jara merlot will be included in the 2010 Merliance, LIMA’s cooperative merlot blend.

T’Jara is a brand created by winemaker Russell Hearn and business partner Jed Beitler, who together own T’Jara Vineyards -- an established vineyard in in Mattituck, NY. T'Jara  released two 2007 vintage wines, a Merlot and Merlot-based blend, in late 2011.

According to the press release, “T’Jara is the phonetic spelling of an aboriginal word that, roughly translated, means ‘where I’m from.’ We wanted our wines to convey a definite sense of place—Long Island’s East End.”

It's no surprise that T'Jara has joined LIMA -- Russell is also the winemaker at Pellegrini Vineyards, one of LIMA's founding members.

Beyond the blending and making of Merliance every year, LIMA has largely been an event-focused organization, organizing tasting events that pit member merlots against merlots from other regions.

 

With the addition of T’Jara Vineyards, the Long Island Merlot Alliance has six members, including Clovis Point, McCall Wines, Raphael, Sherwood House Vineyards and Wölffer Estate Vineyard.

Peconic Bay Winery 2009 "La Barrique" Chardonnay

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Yes, another North Fork chardonnay. A barrel-fermented one at that -- thus the name "La Barrique." But wait. It's not what you think. This is the rare barrel-affected chardonnay that I willingly went back to after my tasting was finished. I had two glasses, in fact.

It almost makes me hate winemaker Greg Gove for proving my boredom over local chardonnay wrong.

Aromas of pineapple, Golden Delicious apple, vanilla, and lemon verbena are accented by just a hint of butter. Overly toasty or raw oak just isn't part of the equation.

Mouth-filling but very well balanced, the palate shows similar character to the nose, but with a creamy mid-palate replacing any obvious butter and a bit of sweet oak mingling with light vanilla and cooked sugar flavors. The finish is long with an acidic edge and hints of citrus zest.

Though still not a style or wine I'd reach for regularly, this is a very well-made wine.

Producer: Peconic Bay Winery
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
ABV: 12.9%   
Price: $24*
  

(4 out of 5 | Outstanding and Delicious, Highly Recommended)

(*Ratings Guide)

7 Questions with....Regan Meador, Assistant Winemaker, Osprey's Dominion Winery

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

I have yet to meet Regan Meador, assistant winemaker at Osprey's Dominion Winery -- in person at least.

As is so common these days, he and I got acquainted via Twitter before he left his white collar job in Manhattan for good and moved to the North Fork to make wine. We keep saying that we're going to meet up for a glass or a pint or five, but it hasn't happened yet.

In the interim, I've asked him our standard set of seven questions...

What event/bottle/etc made you decide that you wanted to be in the wine industry?
It’s a collective of experiences that led me here. But the seminal moment came after days and years in finance, the music business and then advertising and marketing, one day I found myself monitoring a focus group for a client, a major beer brand, and I couldn’t help but notice how disinterested our group was with what we and everyone else in the business was selling. My own disinterest made this even worse. I was tired of selling people crappy beer. I was tired of selling people on something I had no hand in actually making. I was tired of just selling people. I wanted to get my hands dirty. That night I enrolled in courses at U.C. Davis, months later I quit my job and now here I am.

What (and where) was the first bottle of wine you remember drinking?
It was an unknown bottle of California Merlot in 1990 (which puts me at around 10 years old); a bottle that was stolen from my parents (sorry, Mom and Dad) along with a few cans of Miller Light (you’re welcome, Mom and Dad). My accomplice ended up drinking the beer and I couldn’t get enough of the wine. I still remember sitting in the middle of that field, the taste of that wine.

Which of your current wines is your favorite and why?
I’m digging through our few Carmeneres. It’s such a bastard varietal: a dream one year, only to turn around and give you the business the next, but one of my favorites.

What has surprised you most about being a member of the New York wine community?
First let me caveat that I’m new here, but for me it’s the dichotomy. On the one hand it’s incredibly gracious and collaborative, yet at the same time it can be quite competitive and cagey. I find this to be a beautiful thing… it can push a region forward, it makes things interesting, it’s healthy.

Other than your own wines, what wine/beer/liquor most often fills your glass?
I have a consistency problem when it comes to alcohol. I’ve been drinking/thinking/dreaming about Languedoc lately. I like its incongruity, the rough edges. Just had a bottle of Roanoke’s 07 Blend 2 that greatly saddened me once it was finished. As for not wine, a rare pleasure is Compass Box’s Peat Monster on cold nights.

Is there a 'classic' wine or wine and food pairing that you just can't make yourself enjoy?
Chardonnay... with anything.

Wine enjoyment is about more than just the wine itself. Describe the combination of wine, locations, food, company, etc. that would make (or has made) for the ultimate wine-drinking experience.
It’s that rare special crescendo during a dinner party, at a bar with a perfect stranger or just on the couch with a friend or loved one, that occurs right around the middle of the third glass. Where the conversation hits that perfect pitch, that moment of clarity, where world problems are solved, famine is cured, love is discovered. Where everything makes sense…. until we oblige that fourth glass and forget it all…

The New York Cork Report 2011 Wines of the Year Finalists

The winners from our 2010 Wines of the Year tasting (Photo by Morgan Dawson Photography) 

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

This is the third year of our New York Cork Report "Wines of the Year" program and over the past several weeks, my colleagues Bryan Calandrelli and Evan Dawson, and I have been tasting, re-tasting and re-re-tasting dozens of wines to , narrow and hone our lists of finalists 2011 Wines of the Year.

We don't pretend that we've tasted every single wine released during the 2011 calendar year, but we feel that we've tasted a more-than-representative sampling from each region. Each of these finalists was hand-picked by the regional editor for each region -- Evan Dawson (Finger Lakes), Bryan Calandrelli (Niagara) and myself (Long Island and Hudson River Region) -- and will be blind tasted by most of the  NYCR team in mid-February to determine the winners. While the team will attend and take part in the tasting, only wine editors will vote.

You will notice some variations in terms of categories and wines per category. Those decisions are left up to the regional editors.

Finger Lakes Region

Red Wines
Billsboro Winery 2010 Syrah
McGregor Vineyard 2007 30-Month Barrel Black Russian Red
Ravines Wine Cellars 2009 Pinot Noir
Red Tail Ridge Winery 2009 Teroldego
Rooster Hill Vineyards 2008 Lemberger Reserve

Riesling Wines
Anthony Road Wine Company 2009 Art Series Riesling
Bloomer Creek Vineyard 2010 uten Vineyard First Harves Dry Riesling
Hermann J. Wiemer 2010 Dry Riesling Reserve
Keuka Lake Vineyards 2010 Semi-Dry Riesling
Tierce 2009 Riesling
Standing Stone Vineyards 2010 Riesling

Sparkling Wines
Chateau Frank 2006 Blanc de Noir
Hermann J. Wiemer 2006 Blanc de Noir
 

Dessert Wines
Atwater Estate Vineyards 2010 Celsius
Ravines Wine Cellars 2007 Appasionata
Standing Stone 2010 Riesling Ice

Hudson River Valley Region

Red Wines
Hudson-Chatham Winery 2010 Casscles Vineyard Reserve Baco Noir
Oak Summit Vineyard 2010 Pinot Noir
Tousey Winery 2010 Cabernet Franc

White Wines
Hudson-Chatham Winery 2010 Estate Seyval Blanc
Millbrook Vineyards 2010 Tocai Friulano
Oak Summit 2010 Chardonnay

Long Island Region

Merlot Wines
Clovis Point 2007 Vintner's Reserve Merlot
Grapes of Roth 2005 Merlot
Lenz Winery 2007 Estate Merlot
Paumanok Vineyards 2007 Merlot
Wolffer Estate Vineyards 2007 Christian's Cuvee Merlot

Non-Merlot Red Wines
Jamesport Vineyards 2007 Sidor Reserve Syrah
Leo Family 2007 Red
Peconic Bay Winery 2007 Lowerre Family Estate
Roanoke Vineyards 2007 Blend 2
Roanoke Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon

White Wines
Bedell Cellars 2010 Viognier
Channing Daughters Winery 2010 Mudd Vineyard West Sauvignon Blanc
Grapes of Roth 2009 Riesling
Palmer Vineyards 2010 Sauvignon Blanc
Paumanok Vineyards 2010 Sauvignon Blanc

Sparkling Wines
Bedell Cellars 2007 Blanc de Blancs
Lenz Winery 1999 Cuvee RD
Lenz Winery 2005 Cuvee
Sparkling Pointe 2001 Brut Seduction
Sparkling Pointe 2007 Brut

Dessert Wines
Jamesport Vineyards 2010 Late Harvest Riesling
Grapes of Roth 2009 Noble Roth Late Harvest Riesling
Paumanok Vineyards 2010 Late Harvest Riesling
Shinn Estate Vineyards 2009 Veil
Wolffer Estate Vineyards 2009 Laica

Niagara Region

Reds Wines
Arrowhead Spring Vineyards 2010 Pinot Noir
Arrowhead Spring 2010 Estate Syrah
Eveningside Vineyards 2009 Cabernet Franc
Freedom Run Winery 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir
Long Cliff Winery 2010 Pinot Noir

White Wines
Arrowhead Spring 2009 Reserve Chardonnay
Eveningside Vineyards 2010 Reserve Chardonnay
Freedom Run Winery 2010 Estate Chardonnay
Leonard Oakes 2010 Reserve Riesling
Schulze Vineyards 2010 Vidal Blanc 

 

Congratulations to all of the finalists. Keep an eye on this site for more information and results in a few weeks.

Empire State Cellars Wine Club: January 2012 Selections

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

It's been a few months coming, but today I'm ready to announce the first shipment of the new Empire State Cellars Wine Club. If you're not familiar with the club, read more about it here.

We've added a fourth club type -- Excelsior -- which can be purchased as a standalone club or added to another club. Those wines will be up to $60 each and the focus for me will be picking wines worthy of your cellar.

Here are the wines for this first shipment. Each is more than welcome in my glass and I hope you'll enjoy them as well.

"Hello New York" Wines

Red Newt Cellars 2009 Davis Farms Vineyard Riesling: Winemaker David Whiting makes a wonderful range of riesling styles, including a handful of single-vineyard wines from various growers. This riesling stood out when I tasted it for it's lime and slate flavors with pretty citrus blossom notes sprinkled in, and for a beautiful crackle of acidity that lengthens the finish.

Anthony Nappa Wines 2010 "Bordo" Cabernet Franc: If you've been a member of this club for very long, you know how much I enjoy the cabernet franc grape. Well, here is a unique expression that shows a ton of personality for the price. Made using ambient yeast and without a splinter of new oak, it shows complexity and freshness... with a bit of rustic character. Look for snappy red fruit, sweet herbs, sundried tomato and wild fennel aromas and flavors.

"Getting to Know New York" Wines

Ravines Wine Cellars 2009 Argetsinger Vineyard Riesling: If there were such a thing as a grand cru vineyard in the Finger Lakes, Sam Argetsinger's vineyard on the eastern slope of Seneca Lake would surely be one. Take Sam's vineyard and add winemaker Morten Hallgren's skills in expressing its beauty, and you get this wine -- one of the Finger Lakes' top rieslings year in and year out.

McCall Wines 2009 Pinot Noir: Pinot noir from Long Island? It's chased by several, but I'm not sure anyone does it better than Russ McCall on his vineyard in Cutchogue. 2009 was a challenging year on the North Fork and one that enabled the best-tended vineyards to shine. Bright red fruits are accented here by subtle oak and and almost floral spicy quality. I always want my pinot noir to be food friendly, and this one fits that bill nicely.

"New York Wine Trail" Wines

Bedell Cellars 2010 Viognier: If you don't see much pinot noir on Long Island, you see even less viognier, but this was one of my favorite wines of last summer. Replete with sweet melon and stone fruit flavors, there are distinct but understated floral and plum flesh -- not the skin -- notes as well. Fresh and focused, the acidity carries peach and melon flavors with it as the finish lingers.

Osprey's Dominion Vineyards 2007 Reserve Merlot: Winemaker Adam Suprenant doesn't make reserve merlot very often, but when he does it really means something. It's no secret that 2007 was a hot, dry year on the North Fork, so combine that with Adam's cellar skills and you get a complete, balanced merlot that is approachable now but will also improve with time in your cellar.

"Excelsior" Wines

Hermann J. Wiemer 2010 Magdalena Vineyard Riesling: One doesn't often think about "warm" anything in the Finger Lakes, but Magdalena Vineyard is one of the warmest vineyard sites in the Finger Lakes -- it's all relative remember. Its mesoclimate, along with varied soils, consistently deliver ripe, balanced fruit to the cellar where winemaker Fred Merwarth works his magic, bottled here as a single-vineyard wine.

Paumanok Vineyards 2007 Tuthills Lane Vineyard Merlot: The NYCR's 2010 Red Wine of the Year from Long Island, this is a benchmark wine for me -- a wine that I compare many merlots to when I'm tasting them. Yes, the flavors are ripe and layered, but what really makes this wine a standout is its structure. The tannins are substantial and chewy, but also incredibly ripe, providing some serious grip without being hard or harsh. Drink it now if you must (make sure you decant it for an hour or two) but tuck it away in your cellar for several years and you'll be rewarded.

If you haven't signed up for the club yet, fear not. You can still get in on this first shipment. Email Katherine Jaeger, Manager of Wine Clubs, at [email protected] and she will take good care of you. And remember, you can customize your club to include just red or whites wines too if you'd like.

 

Admitting What We Don't Know: Aging Potential for New York Wines

By Evan Dawson, Managing Editor

The other day I read a truly outstanding piece of wine writing by one of the most underrated writers in the field today. He's underrated probably because he's not actually in the wine writing field; Keith Levenberg is an enthusiast who makes his living elsewhere, but every six weeks or so, he rewards readers with his insights. His blog is not unlike your favorite greasy spoon tucked into high-end restaurant row: You always see the same dozen people there, and they realize that the place is going to be packed if anyone ever finds out how good the fare is.

It was Keith's piece on how wines mature that had me thinking of New York wines. Specifically, I'm thinking about Finger Lakes rieslings and Long Island reds, which, categorically speaking, are the state's wines that have the best potential for long-term improvement in the bottle.

It's time that we admit what we don't know. And it's time we recognize how thrilling that is.

In older wine regions, we get a good look at what might happen a decade or three down the line. Sure, vinification techniques change. But there is a reason to believe that we know what the special bottlings of, say, Cote-Rotie might do with time.

But as Keith makes clear, there's way too much posturing and affectation when critics try to slap a "drink window" on structured wines:

In its simplest form, the thought process goes something like this: Tannins help a wine age, and this wine is tannic; therefore it needs time. There are endless variations on the theme: As wines age they lose their baby fat, and this wine has a lot of baby fat; therefore it will be a long time before it fades. Or: Wines integrate with age, and this wine seems very disjointed; therefore it just needs some time to come together. Or: Wine ages on its balance, and this wine is perfectly balanced; therefore it will age effortlessly. You can pluck any one you want to justify any arbitrary prognostication. For example, one person tastes a heavily tannic, backwards wine and concludes it’s structured for long aging. Another person tastes the same wine, decries its lack of balance, and quotes the late Henri Jayer: “If it tastes too tannic, then it is too tannic.” Which one is right? Answer: It depends. Some wines have a track record for starting out punishingly tannic and eventually becoming exquisitely finessed, while other wines that might seem structurally indistinguishable from the starting gate never manage to shed the harshness–or, just as disappointingly, they do shed the tannin but don’t reveal anything interesting in the material that remains.

He's right, of course, and if I spent five minutes I could probably find an instance or two in which I over-pronounce or, perhaps, speculate carelessly. It's tempting to do, but most of the time we're really just bullshitting. And it's a great way to get into trouble; few things provoke the kind of public opprobrium that comes when a critic urges his readers to lay down an expensive bottle that quickly goes downhill.

But we should feel no frustration with the lack of precision with which we can anticipate New York wines' aging curves. Instead, we should enjoy this opportunity to witness an evolution, of wine regions from nascency to actualization. How good will the best Long Island merlot be in twenty-five years? I can guess, and Lenn can guess with better authority than most. But the ledger is so thin that we're still simply guessing, and to Keith's point, we'll always be simply guessing.

Do not take this to say that we don't have any clue at all what New York wines will do with some amount of bottle age. We've seen enough example of, for example, Bedell's or Paumanok's merlots to understand their potential over a decade or so. Same with the rieslings -- and particularly the late harvest rieslings -- of Hermann J. Wiemer. There are other examples. But we need not obsess over nailing down the projected pinnacle of each of New York's finest wines. We can track the progress as it happens, sometimes rewarded, sometimes disappointed. Just remind yourself that a wine that is, to use a common phrase, "past peak" is simply communicating different things. It is very often a highly enjoyable story if you're willing to listen to it.

There will be some changes coming to NYCR in 2012. Among other projects, Lenn and I are planning to create a rough vintage guide. Not a typical vintage chart, but a helpful report on recent vintages. But no matter what the vintage evaluation, there will be surprises, and if we ever tell you we know exactly when a wine will peak, well...