New York Cork Report

T'Jara Vineyards Joins Long Island Merlot Alliance

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Yesterday, the Long Island Merlot Alliance (LIMA) announced that T’Jara Vineyards label has joined the merlot promotion group.

That means that two barrels of 2010 T’Jara merlot will be included in the 2010 Merliance, LIMA’s cooperative merlot blend.

T’Jara is a brand created by winemaker Russell Hearn and business partner Jed Beitler, who together own T’Jara Vineyards -- an established vineyard in in Mattituck, NY. T'Jara  released two 2007 vintage wines, a Merlot and Merlot-based blend, in late 2011.

According to the press release, “T’Jara is the phonetic spelling of an aboriginal word that, roughly translated, means ‘where I’m from.’ We wanted our wines to convey a definite sense of place—Long Island’s East End.”

It's no surprise that T'Jara has joined LIMA -- Russell is also the winemaker at Pellegrini Vineyards, one of LIMA's founding members.

Beyond the blending and making of Merliance every year, LIMA has largely been an event-focused organization, organizing tasting events that pit member merlots against merlots from other regions.

 

With the addition of T’Jara Vineyards, the Long Island Merlot Alliance has six members, including Clovis Point, McCall Wines, Raphael, Sherwood House Vineyards and Wölffer Estate Vineyard.

Empire State Cellars to Open Tomorrow

Empire State Cellars will open tomorrow, November 4, morning at the Tanger Outlet Center in Riverhead, New York

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

The wait is over. Empire State Cellars, a new wine shop and tasting room dedicated solely to New York State-made wine and spirits, will open tomorrow morning at 10 a.m. at the Tanger Outlet Center in Riverhead.

"It has been pretty labor intensive to say the least, and mentally draining, but the end result is worth all of the late nights and long hours. This is good for everyone," said Jim Silver, General Manager of Peconic Bay Winery, who is opening Empire State Cellars as second of it s five permissible tasting rooms under its Farm Winery license.

Upon opening tomorrow, the store will have 400 different wines and spirits in stock, with the goal of expanding that to 600 in the very near future. "There are still dozens of wineries we want in the store but that haven't gotten back to us yet. Some have been too busy with their harvest to sell us their wines. Some are sold out of certain things we really wan to carry. But that said, we've got an absolutely astonishing selection from all over the state," said Silver.

Empire State Cellars will be open from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. seven days a week, and will offer tastings of several wines every day.

I've joined Jim and the Empire State team -- specifically manager Polly Brown and assistant manager Evan Ducz -- as they taste several wines they were considering for the store, and I can tell you that their enthusiasm for finding delicious wines from every corner of the state is obvious, even inspiring. Representing every region and as many wineries as possible is a priority.

"We really see this as a way to bring all of the state's wine regions together, to showcase their wines and, of course, sell them. The response has been amazing. Just about every winery we got in touch with is working with us."

When I asked Silver what wines he was most excited about stocking, his answer was so long that I almost had to cut him off: "There are some items that just blew me away with their quality and three of them were from Arrowhead Spring Vineyards in Niagara. I'm also happy to have gotten the Bloomer Creek Vineyards wines, some items from Mazza Vineyards in Lake Erie, neat sparkling wines from Swedish Hill Winery, new vintages from Waters Crest Winery and Palmer Vineyards, and single-vineyard wines from Keuka Lake Vineyards, Red Newt Cellars and Lamoreaux Landing. There are way too many wines to list that are very cool."

Personally, I'm nearly as excited about the selection of New York spirits, which includes items from Tuthilltown Spirits, Finger Lakes Distilling and Breukelen Distilling.

A grand opening celebration is in the works, but has not been scheduled.

I'm also excited to report that my wine club, formerly known as the New York Cork Club, will be re-born on January 1 as the Empire State Cellars Wine Club. With the shop's devotion to New York wines, and willingness to allow me to continue picking the wines independently, it was an easy decision to make. I'll tell you more about the new club tomorrow!

BREAKING NEWS: Anthony Road Winemaker Johannes Reinhardt's Green Card Application Accepted by U.S. Government

By Evan Dawson, Managing Editor

The American government has accepted Johannes Reinhardt's application for permanent worker status, the New York Cork Report confirmed Tuesday.

This decision essentially guarantees that Reinhardt will finally receive a green card. He is now permitted to apply for a change in status, and legal experts say that part of the process is a mere formality. By law, Reinhardt can apply for the change in status along with his wife, Imelda, who is also seeking a green card.

Reinhardt has spent seven years applying for permanent worker status, often referred to as a green card, only to find consistent rejection. It's a process that can cost thousands of dollars, and without permanent status, Reinhardt has been unable to start his own business.

"I have been keeping both joy and disappointment in my heart throughout this time," Reinhardt said Tuesday. "I have never tried to allow myself too much emotion in either direction. But this is quite something."

That's an understatement, particularly given the fact that Johannes and his wife had been forced to consider other countries that might allow them permanent status. But his colleagues and friends urged him to make another application, and the stack of supporting letters had grown dozens of pages deep.

"I don't know how to thank everyone involved in supporting me," Johannes said. "This has been a dream, but you never know which way it will end up. So many people have been so passionate in their support, and I will always remember that."

Chief among Reinhardt's supporters were the Martini family, owners of the Anthony Road Wine Company. John and Ann Martini have proudly worked on Reinhardt's behalf, even though it's possible the German will move on to his own wine company once the green card arrives.

But there won't be changes at Anthony Road for a while, even with this development. Reinhardt says he's looking forward to the 2011 harvest.

Editor's note: The NYCR staff has received dozens of inquiries about Johannes Reinhardt's immigration status in recent weeks. We invite you to leave your thoughts in the comments section.

Hurricane Irene Threatens the East Coast -- and Long Island Wine Country

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Local growers and winemakers are watching the weather closely this week to keep an eye on Hurricane Irene, which has a projected path up the eastern seaboard and over the East End of Long Island on Sunday into Monday.

2011 has been a good growing season on Long Island. It started slowly with a rainy, grey June, but has improved since with plenty of hot, sunny days and enough mixed in to combat any drought-related stress on the vines.

Computer models aren't always reliable, but Hurricane Irene hitting wine country could have a serious impact on and otherwise fine vintage.

There are several factors to consider, including where the storm comes in, how long it stays and where it moves off shore.

A direct hit can snap trellis poles, send bird netting flying and leave an entire vineyard destroyed. In that scenario, the lost 2011 crop is only one of the problems. Repairing and potentially replanting a vineyard is a time-consuming and costly proposition. Even if the eye of the storm stays off shore, it could still mean high winds and significant spray from the ocean. If not washed away by rains, salt from the spray can dessicate and decimate the canopy in a matter of days.

The same rains that wash away salt spray could bring their own problems however. If the rain is hard and wind-driven, it can bruise the grapes. And, as always, rain can increase disease pressure.

 

There is little doubt that local farmers have the Weather Channel on their televisions today and will all week. That's all they can do though -- watch, wait and hope.

In the meantime, I'll talk to some local growers and winemakers and publish updates the rest of the week.

Paul and Shannon Brock Acquire Silver Thread Vineyard, Aim for Bigger Production

 
By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor
Photos by Tom Smith

 Paul and Shannon Brock have reached an agreement to assume ownership of Silver Thread Vineyard, a small operation on a highly regarded piece of property on southeast Seneca Lake.

The transition will begin immediately, with the Brocks set to oversee the upcoming harvest. And while they profess a desire to maintain the vision of founder Richard Figiel, the Brocks are planning significant changes.

Currently at 750 cases annually, the Brocks expect to increase production of Silver Thread wines to 1,000 cases this vintage, while eventually increasing production to 3,000 cases annually within five years. The first step toward achieving this goal is changing the vineyard management. Figiel has farmed the 10 acres of vines with organic practices in mind. 

"There were a number of things that Richard was doing that led to very low yields," Shannon Brock said. "The organic practices certainly contributed to that. We expect to see the yields increase this year. We're definitely hoping that will happen."

That doesn't mean overcropped vines. Paul Brock, formerly the head winemaker at nearby Lamoreaux Landing before taking a teaching job at Finger Lakes Community College, is a proponent of balanced vines and healthy yields. 

"Paul and I consider ourselves environmentalists," Shannon said, "but we'll make some changes. We'll continue to work organically when possible, but it's not always possible. It's a worthwhile effort."

In addition to changing the growing practices, the Brocks will eventually plant more vines -- mostly riesling. "There's room to get bigger," Shannon explained, noting that of the 27 acres of property, fewer than half are under vine. 

Figiel has agreed to offer his assistance of the first year under new ownership. He launched the operation in 1991 and convinced the Brocks to keep the winery name. 

"Some things will have to change, but a lot can stay the same," Shannon Brock said. "We respect the work Richard has done, and we're simply going to make sure more consumers can find Silver Thread wines."

Dave Mudd Remembered for Ongoing Contributions to Long Island Wine

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Dave Mudd, an outspoken leader and a tireless advocate for Long Island wine, died at his home in Southold over the weekend at the age of 90.

Mudd planted his first vines the year after Alex and Louisa Hargraves planted Long Island's first commercial vineyard. He never made his own wine commercially, but the name of his vineyard has appeared on numerous labels over the years -- most notably on wines made by Chris Tracy at Channing Daughters Winery.

"He touched almost everyone who came after him and provided leadership, guidance and a vision that was years ahead of his time. He knew of the potential for Long Island wine and was never afraid to tell anyone who would listen," said Rich Olsen-Harbich, winemaker at Bedell Cellars.

It's difficult to overstate the impact Mudd and his son Steve have had and continue to have on Long Island wine. Their company Mudd Vineyards has planted nearly two-thirds of the acreage on the North and South Forks.

"He provided a service to people who wanted to get into the wine business but had neither the time nor the cultural information or skills to do so. He educated himself in all aspects of grape growing and was tireless in finding out new information and techniques for the region," Olsen-Harbich said in an email earlier today, adding "Many of us wouldn’t be here today. He gave me my very first job in the wine business as a field worker."

David Page of Shinn Estate Vineyards said "The visionary work that Dave began nearly 40 years ago is an inspiration."

Visiting hours will be held at DeFriest-Grattan Funeral Home in Mattituck on Wednesday from 7 p.m. to 9 p.m. and Thursday from 1p.m. to 3 p.m. A funeral service will be held at 2:30 p.m. Thursday followed by interment at Cutchogue Cemetery.

In lieu of flowers, contributions may be made to East End Hospice, P.O. Box 1048, Westhampton Beach, NY 11978.

Martha Clara Vineyards Wins Governor's Cup for 2010 Riesling

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

I've just learned that Martha Clara Vineyards on the North Fork of Long Island has won this year's Governor’s Cup for best New York state wine, for their 2010 Riesling.

There has been many words written about the New York Wine & Food Classic over the years, but this is still great for the great team at Martha Clara -- and it virtually guarantees that this wine will sell out.

It was chosen from 741 wines submitted by 105 wineries by a group of judges from across the country and the world.

Juan Micieli-Martinez, general manager and head winemaker at Martha Clara, just told me in an email that the fruit for this wine was actually grown by Bill Dalrymple on the West Side of Seneca Lake.  

He started buying fruit from Darrymple in 2009 and "In 2010, we purchased more Finger Lakes and produced two rieslings. Our 2010 Estate Reserve is 100% North Fork and the New York State-labeled wine is 100% Finger Lakes riesling from the Dalrymple Farm.  A comparison of the two Martha Clara Rieslings shows you the terroir of the two regions. Both wines are made identically -- same yeast, ferment temps, etc." 

The Governor's Cup-winning riesling was intended for wholesale only, but that has changed with this news. "We will release (it) with a three-bottle per person limit and six-bottles per person limit for Wine Club Members at the tasting room," Micieli-Martinez said.

It is $17.99 per bottle.

The other big award handed out at the Classic every year -- Winery of the Year -- went to Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars on Seneca Lake. That honor is based on the number and level of medals its wines receive.

News Brief: The Winemaker Studio is Now Open

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Anthony Nappa and Sarah Evans' new venture The Winemaker Studio opened its doors to the public for the first time last Wednesday.

Evans, the chef de cuisine at North Fork Table and Nappa, the former winemaker at Shinn Estate Vineyards, are pouring and selling wines he makes under his own label while also offering wines from three other winemakers' labels: Suhru Wines from Russell Hearn of Pellegrini Vineyards and Premium Wine Group, Grapes of Roth from Roman Roth of Wolffer Estate Vineyard, and Leo Family from John Leo of Clovis Point.

The Winemaker Studio is open daily from noon to 7 p.m.

The Winemaker Studio by Anthony Nappa Wines
2885 Peconic Lane, Peconic NY 11958
774-641-7488

Anthony Nappa Leaves Shinn Estate Vineyards; Replaced by Patrick Caserta

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Anthony Nappa, who served as winemaker at Shinn Estate Vineyards for four years, resigned on Monday. He will continue to make wine under his own label, Anthony Nappa Wines, and hope to open The Winemaker Studio with his fiancee Sara Evans over the next week or two.

Nappa also told me in an email this morning that he is looking for another winemaking job on the East End.

Nappa will be replaced by Patrick Caserta, who was announced as the winery's new production winemaker in co-owner David Page's weekly email newsletter today.

Caserta will be North Fork winery's third full-time winemaker since its first harvest in 2002. Juan Micieli-Martinez currently of Martha Clara Vineyards preceded Nappa as winemaker. Before that, Eric Fry of Lenz Winery and Roman Roth from Wolffer Estate made Shinn Estate's wines as consultants.

"We wish Anthony much success in his future endeavors. He gave us four outstanding years," Page said in the email.

Caserta (pictured left, from Facebook) is a native of Connecticut who began his studies in food and wine at The  Culinary Institute of America where he received a Culinary Arts degree. After working for celebrity chefs Rocco DeSpirito and Todd English he attended California State University at Fresno and obtained degrees in Enolgy and Viticulture.

He has over 10 years of experience working in New Zealand, France and California -- including Vieux Chateau Certan/Le Pin in Bordeaux, Rudd, Verite, Cade and Plumpjack in California, and Te Mata in New Zealand.

Most recently, Caserta spent eight months working for winemaker Kareem Massoud at Paumanok Vineyards during the 2010 vintage.

"Patrick will work directly with Barbara and myself to craft wines that best express the beauty of this place where they are grown," said Page.

Bouke Wines, Scarola Vineyards and Comtesse Therese Available at New "Tasting Room" at the Portly Grape

The crowd at Winebar's opening last Thursday night.

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

When Theresa Dilworth closed The Tasting Room on Peconic Lane, some wondered where they'd be able to taste and buy wines from producers like Bouke Wines and Scarola Vineyards -- small wineries without tasting rooms of their own.

Winebar, which opened last week at The Portly Grape in Greenport, will serve as the primary tasting location for those producers. Dilworth's own wines, under the Comtesse Therese label, will also be featured there.

Run by Mark Anderson and Andrew Mestler, who you may know from Bedell Vineyards, the new tasting room-meets-wine bar features wine tasting flights from Bouke, Comtesse Therese and Scarola Vineyards.

This isn't just a tasting room however. Wine tastings can be accompanied by a food tasting menu that includes a roasted pear and goat cheese salad, pan seared scallops, oysters, smoked Crescent Duck breast, beef tenderloin, ahi tuna, and aged New York sirloin -- all prepared by Chef Mark Sorrentino in The Portly Grape's restaurant kitchen.

Winebar is, well, a wine bar as well. As such it will offer wines by the glass and by the bottle from a variety of North Fork vineyards. Local beers from Greenport Harbor are also available -- making it the perfect wine country destination for wine lovers who either love a beer at the end of a day of wine tasting or, like me, have good friends who just don't like wine.

Winebar is open daily from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Deb Whiting Dies in Car Accident; Dave Whiting Injured

By Evan Dawson, Managing Editor

We are devastated to report the loss of Deb Whiting, co-owner and chef of Red Newt Cellars and Red Newt Bistro.

Deb died in a car accident last night while returning home from Vermont with her husband Dave, who was injured in the crash. Dave is listed in stable condition after being taken to a Syracuse hospital.

The Whitings have long been regional ambassadors, reaching into new markets and pushing for higher quality standards. The restaurant, built around Deb Whiting's passion for local agriculture, has won many awards and is the reigning NYCR Finger Lakes Restaurant of the Year.

We will have more to say about the Whitings next week. For now, we can only try, and fail, to convey our sadness over the loss.

This is an industry that takes great pride on a spirit of collaboration, and that spirit has never been needed more.

Our thoughts go out to the Whiting family as well as the entire Red Newt family and Finger Lakes wine community.

Captain Lawrence Brewing Company to Expand

By Julia Burke, Beer Editor

Responding to increased demand for their beer thanks to a growing local following and massive critical acclaim, Captain Lawrence Brewing Company has announced a move and an expansion. The Pleasantville, NY brewery is moving five miles away to a bigger and better home at 444 Saw Mill River Road in Elmsford.

After over five years in business, Captain Lawrence has built a booming base of tasting room visitors and achieved cult status across New York State and beyond for its innovative and delicious brews, which include a popular IPA and the Smoked From the Oak Series of porters aged in apple brandy, rum and wine barrels; the apple brandy porter was a 2010 NYCR Beer of the Year finalist.  

The new 18,250-square foot facility will feature a 40 bbl automated brewhouse, representing a fivefold expansion from the brewery’s current capacity.

Three exciting developments in particular will result from this expansion. First, Captain Lawrence will begin offering 12 oz. bottles of many beers in their lineup including their pale ale, kolsch and smoked porter. “It’s the packaging of choice for the consumer,” brewmaster Scott Vaccaro explained.

Second, an additional 7 bbl brewhouse will allow Vaccaro and his team to experiment with more unique one-off brews, stretching their innovative muscles even more than in the past. Vaccaro says this extra brewhouse will give the team the chance to practice with smaller batches of special beers. “I foresee an IPA, more sours, more barrel-aged beers,” he says. “It gives us the ability to have more fun.”

Finally, Captain Lawrence’s expansion means a serious tasting room upgrade. The brewery routinely fills its current tasting room, and the opportunity to open a space with more room — and more beer capacity — is welcome. “Basically our tasting room now is tiny, non-air-conditioned,” says Vaccaro. “The new place will be larger, will have AC, and we’ll have twelve beers on tap” instead of the current five. Visitors will be able to enjoy Captain Lawrence’s beers this more comfortable, relaxed environment as early as this fall if all goes to plan.

Captain Lawrence Brewing Company
99 Castleton Street, Pleasantville, NY 10570
914-741-BEER
[email protected]

Martha Clara Vineyards Promotes Epperson-McCarthy to Winemaker

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Robin Epperson-McCarthy has been promoted to winemaker for Martha Clara Vineyards less than a year after being hired as assistant winemaker.

The previous winemaker, Juan Micieli-Martinez will continue to focus and expand his role as the winery's general manager while still acting as managing winemaker.

Epperson-McCarthy grew up on the North Fork, graduating from Mattituck high school in 1999, and though her wine journey took her far away from it, it seems as though she was always meant to return home -- and to Martha Clara Vineyards.

"As long as I have been working in the wine industry I have been involved with Martha Clara," Epperson-McCarthy said in a recent email.  "Becoming a winemaker here seems inexorable to me. During my time as Laboratory Director at Premium Wine Group I spent a lot of time working with the Martha Clara Wines. As Juan and I set out on our own paths we became and stayed good friends."

When Micieli-Martinez left Shinn Estate Vineyards to become winemaker at Martha Clara, Epperson was still at Premium spending the majority of her time working with Martha Clara wines.

"I don't feel like there was ever a time when I did not know what was going on with the wines from Martha Clara Vineyards," she said.

Any new winemaker brings his or her own ideas, and changes, but Epperson isn't looking to make many. "I became assistant winemaker at Martha Clara because I like Juan's winemaking style and the wines that have been produced from this vineyard. Juan knows this vineyard while I have some new approaches to fermentation and aging that I learned while working overseas," she said.

I've had the pleasure of tasting and talking wine with Robin on a few occasions -- and we've also had several Twitter and email exchanges -- and I think she's going to be good for the wines at Martha Clara. She has all the technical prowess in the world, but I think what sets her part is her passionate curiosity. I look forward to watching how the wines change over time with her at the helm.

The Tasting Room Closing Today -- for Good?

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Theresa Dilworth, owner of Comtesse Therese winery and bistro will close The Tasting Room, Long Island's lone co-op tasting room for wineries, at the end of business today.

Dilworth purchased and re-opened The Tasting Room in 2006 after the previous owners sold their interests in the local wine industry and shut it down.

She hopes to re-open again sometime in 2011 at a different location.

"I am planning to spend a lot of time at my bistro this spring, summer and fall season," she said in a recent email "My vineyard is also in Aquebogue. I am also working on a new bed and breakfast project in Riverhead. My interests are in the western part of the North Fork, and my time is limited on the weekends."

The closing goes beyond a simple lack of time, however. Dilworth thinks it needs a better, more-trafficked location too. "I have basically lost interest in the Peconic Lane location and have been wanting to move it to a Main Road location since last summer," she told me.

Dilworth is exploring two new Main Road locations -- both much closer to her bistro and vineyard -- but neither will be available for at least several months, which could lead to a challenging season for the wineries that have poured there, which include Bouke, Brooklyn Oenology, Medolla Vineyards, Onabay Vineyards and Schneider Vineyards.

The Tasting Room has served an important role for these small producers without storefronts of their own. And the multi-winery concept is clearly a good one, and I think one that can work.

Lisa Donneson, proprietor of Bouke agrees, telling me "It’s an excellent concept and can work on Long Island. It offers the consumer a chance to sample a range of styles under one roof and join an interesting wine club. It offers boutique producers a place to showcase their wines."

And clearly the pouring wineries thought The Tasting Room was working for them. Alie Shaper, owner and winemaker for Brooklyn Oenology said "I gained quite a bit of new business by having my wines available for tasting and purchase out on the wine trail. It has been a significant outlet for myself and my fellow wineries, and I'm saddened by its closure."

Shaper recently opened a tasting room of her own -- though in Brooklyn rather than on the North Fork -- but the other wineries are without tasting rooms starting tomorrow morning, leaving some wondering what their next step is.

"The Tasting Room closing is going to be a challenge for a small, high-end label like us," said Chiara Edmands of Onabay Vineyards, adding "It's a shame it didn't work out."

Even if Dilworth re-opens The Tasting Room in a new location sometime in the summer or fall, there's no guarantee that it will be a multi-producer location. 

While Dilworth thinks the multi-vineyard concept can work on Long Island, she adds "However, frankly at the moment I am more interested in selling my own wines than selling other people's wines. At the new location on the Main Road, assuming it comes to fruition, I have not decided whether it will be a single vineyard or multi-vineyard location."

I have heard that one or more wineries/brands are considering opening something similar at the current location, but I have yet to confirm that.

I hope that The Tasting Room isn't gone for good, but it will be interesting to see what happens next.

 

Amber Waves of Grain 2011 Homebrewing Competition

By Julia Burke, Beer Editor

This weekend hundreds of beer drinkers gathered on Grand Island to celebrate a single passion: homebrewing.

The "Amber Waves of Grain Homebrewing Competition," hosted by the Niagara Association of Homebrewers, celebrates the ultimate in "drinking local" over two days of tasting and judging over 420 entries, from double IPAs to meads to barleywines.

The quality of the homebrews I tasted was unequivocally impressive. Of the beers I tasted in the American Stout/Imperial Stout/Foreign Export Stout category, almost all were pleasures to drink, and one was so good I would have chosen it over many classic commercial examples.

Judge Tim Collins, who has been judging AWOG for 15 years, noted, "the quality has risen thanks to the availability of good information. Beginning homebrewers can get a recipe online, get advice from friends or a homebrewing club, and make a great beer."

Many of the judges I spoke with were longtime homebrewers who were enthusiastic about the competition not only because of the sensory challenge and sense of camaraderie, but the chance to learn and improve their own brewing. Other judges were professional brewers, BJCP-certified experts in beer evaluation, and leaders of local beer clubs. The diversity in background and the open, friendly, discussion-based atmosphere made for a tremendous beer tasting experience.

As more and more homebrewers team up to form brewing clubs and even nanobreweries and microbreweries of their own, it's exciting to experience the amazing talent and great beer emerging from the basements, kitchens and garages of western New York.

You can view the results of the Amber Waves of Grain 2011 competition online.

Red Tail Ridge Winery Awarded LEED Certification

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor

Red Tail Ridge Winery on Seneca Lake has achieved LEED Green Building Certification after a long and rigorous process. LEED stands for Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design.

In a news release, Red Tail Ridge laid out the many steps that have been made in this process:

• All heating and cooling requirements for wine processing is provided by geothermal energy
• Alternative energy use creates 50% energy savings
• Building is constructed from recycled materials
• All winery processing waste (including water, lees, pomace) is recycled
• Natural lighting inside the winery eliminates need for day-time aritifical lighting
• Winery uses low-energy light fixtures
• 70% of the total wood-based building materials were harvested from FSC-certified forests

"Not only are we putting our best foot forward environmentally, we are also saving over 50% in our energy consumption," owner-winemaker Nancy Irelan said in the release.

Tracie Hall, the Executive Director of the U.S. Green Building Council's upstate New York chapter, praised Red Tail Ridge for getting certified. Hall cited the innovative winemaking processes employed by the winery, saying that Red Tail Ridge has effectively cut costs, saved energy and reduced "environmental impact, all while producing amazing wines."

The New York Cork Report has covered Red Tail Ridge's green efforts; the above photo comes from our November 2009 story.

Owners Nancy Irelan and Mike Schnelle explained years ago that they were willing to invest in this process with the expectation that they would be rewarded with lower costs and a smaller environmental footprint. It appears they were right. Irelan and Schnelle have proven willing to help others learn about this process, and they're planning a party to celebrate the LEED certification in May.

Peconic Bay Winery Names Hargrave Assistant Winemaker

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Peconic Bay Winery has namd Zander Hargrave assistant winemaker, adding him to long-time head winemaker Greg Gove's team.

The Hargrave name isn't new to Long Island wine lovers. Zander's parents, Louisa and Alex Hargrave, founded Hargrave Vineyard, Long Island's first commercial winery, in 1973, and Zander's uncle, Charlie Hargrave, has served as vineyard manager at Peconic Bay for over a decade.

Born "shortly before the excellent harvest of 1977," Zander told me that "As a child, growing up on a vineyard was much less about the wine than the people who were around. There was always some action to be found."

Despite growing up in the vineyard, it was a high school trip to France that really got Zander hooked on wine. "Coming home from that trip in 1994 I began to take a much more active roll in the work on the farm and in the tasting room. I began to really learn about the many varietals we grew. So I worked in every facet of the operation at Hargrave Vineyard, from running tours and tastings, driving the tractor, suckering in the vineyard, picking, pruning, mowing, bottling, and many other jobs in the cellar and lab. I have always loved harvest the most, there is so much energy to be drawn from harvest," he said.

He spent the summer of 1996 in the cellar at Chateau Fuisse in Pouilly Fuisse where he learned "a lot about making amazing chardonnay."

When his parents sold the vineyard to Marco and Ann Marie Borghese in 1999, Zander stayed on with his sister Anne and worked with them for a around a year to ease the transition. "Then I left the vineyard but it never left me," he says looking back.

From there, Zander worked in a variety of non-winery fields -- sales representative for a local newspaper, manager of a horse farm, production manager at Satur Farms, landscaping, and volleyball and tennis coach for Southold High School. He even opened and ran a crepe stand at Harbes Farm and worked at a country club to pay the bills while getting his Masters degree in education at Stony Brook University.

Zander student taught at Longwood Junior High School and Center Moriches High School and subbed throughout the Longwood school district for two years until his uncle called looking for help in the vineyard.

Since then, he's filled a variety of rolls -- mainly in the vineyard and cellar -- at Peconic Bay Winery. He's even earned the unofficial title of "Cider Czar" taking on the winery's new hard cider program.

"I am thrilled to be a part of the Peconic Bay Winery family, working alongside my mentor Greg Gove and uncle Charlie. Paul and Ursula Lowerre are terrific, supportive owners and Jim Silver is a creative genius. I am truly fortunate to be working in a job that I love surrounded by people I trust."

Speaking of Jim Silver, let let me know that he's revamped the winery's distribution channels, turning to Empire Merchants (Metro New York), Empire North (Upstate New York), CDI (Connecticut), and R & R Marketing (New Jersey).  Distribution can be a challenge for New York wineries, but Silver said "we're about to light the afterburners on our wholesale distribution in the tri-state area, I couldn't be happier."

Long Island Merlot Alliance Elects New Officers, Announce Plans for 2011

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

After an extended period of relative radio silence (except for HARVEST), the Long Island Merlot Alliance (LIMA) today announced its newly elected officers while providing a glimpse into its plans for 2011.

In a press release, executive director Donnell Brown said “It will be a busy year for the organization — one that stands to bring breakthroughs in the regard for our region and for Long Island merlot. Our new leaders bring so much experience and enthusiasm to their roles. Their influence will guide all that we do to new and greater heights.”

New president Russ McCall of McCall Wines will act as the primary spokesperson for the group spearheading its research, marketing and growth initiatives.

This seems like a smart, well-conceived choice. McCall strong industry experience and while some non-members have questioned whether or not LIMA wineries are pushing merlot chiefly because it's what they have planted in their vineyards (and thus have to sell), that can't be said of McCall. His winery has a distinct focus on pinot noir, and in my opinion there is little doubt that the pinot noirs are the stars of his portfolio.

Roman Roth, best known as winemaker at Wolffer Estate will be vice president, focusing on marketing and the HARVEST event. Roth is one of the LIMA's founding members and is one of the smartest, most-respected voices for Long Island wine.

Clovis Point managing partner Hal Ginsburg is the groups treasurer and Gilles Martin, who makes wines for a few local wineries, is the new technical advisor. He'll focus on the group's research initiatives.

The group is planning to be much more active with the press and the public in 2001, with blind tasting events in the works and of course an expanded HARVEST 2011 event. As I hear more about these events, I'll be sure to share the news.

Peconic Bay Winery Goes Solar

One of three solar panels recently installed at Peconic Bay Winery (Photo courtesy of Peconic Bay Winery)

Peconic Bay Winery's new solar panels aren't the first in wine country, but they are among the largest.

At a ribbon-cutting ceremony this afternoon, the winery will unveil a solar electric generating photovoltaic (PV) system that will produce approximately 47,826 kilowatt hours (kWh) of electricity annually saving the winery $8,895 in annual electricity costs at today’s rates.

The 180-panel PV system cost $327,760, but Long Island Power Authority (LIPA), through its Solar Entrepreneur Program, provided a significant rebate of $97,830 which helped to reduce the out-of-pocket expense for the system. Peconic Bay Winery may also be able to further reduce the cost of the system via Federal and State tax incentives.

Jim Silver, the winery's general manager (and frequent visitor to this site) said that the winery "Intend(s) to offset more than 70% of our energy needs with this new equipment," adding that "Cutchogue is the sunniest
spot in all of New York State. That not only makes for outstanding grape-growing conditions, but makes solar collection a natural and obvious choice."

Congratulations to owners Paul and Ursula Lowerre, to Jim Silver and the entire gang at Peconic Bay.

The owners of Peconic Bay Winery, Paul and Ursula Lowerre, are wholeheartedly committed to reducing non-renewable energy usage at the winery. They believe saving energy and protecting the environment shows sensible stewardship of this beautiful land. .”

Lamoreaux Landing Winemaker Paul Brock Leaving to Take FLCC Instructor Position

By Evan Dawson, Managing Editor

Paul Brock, head winemaker at Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars on Seneca Lake, is preparing to leave the winery for a new job as an instructor of viticulture and enology at Finger Lakes Community College.

FLCC is expanding its emphasis on wine growing and winemaking and Brock tells us, "It was an opportunity I could not refuse."

Brock is well suited to a classroom setting; he's an intellectual who brought new ideas to Lamoreaux Landing and often enjoys discussing and debating winemaking. Under Brock's leadership, Lamoreaux Landing expanded its single-vineyard riesling program in the past year to include three separate bottlings.

He says he'd like to stay connected to the Finger Lakes wine industry in some form beyond his new job at FLCC, but nothing has been finalized.

Lamoreaux Landing has already begun the search for a new head winemaker.

Brock has an M.S. in Enology and Viticulture from Cornell University and a B.S. in Chemical Engineering from Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute. 

Prior to Lamoreaux Landing, Paul made wine for Ravines Wine Cellars and Keuka Lake Vineyards in the Finger Lakes, and Whitehaven Wine Co. in Marlborough, New Zealand. 

He is a graduate of the American Wine Society Judge Certification Program and holds an Advanced Certificate in Wine and Spirits through the Wine & Spirit Education Trust of London, England. 

Veteran Winemaker Rich Olsen-Harbich Leaves Raphael to Join Bedell Cellars

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Rich Olsen-Harbich, long-time winemaker at Raphael in Peconic has resigned that post and will take over the head winemaking duties at Bedell Cellars starting next week, joining a winemaking team that includes Bedell's founder and now founding winemaker Kip Bedell and consultant Pascal Marty. The news was first reported on Twitter by Howard Goldberg.

Olsen-Harbich succeeds Kelly Urbanik, whose contract has run out told me in an email "I don't have any current plans -- just going to take a few days to think about things. I'm keeping all of my options open."

Bedell's owner Michael Lynne described his new winemaking team as "a dream situation for us" when I spoke with him earlier today, pointing to Olsen-Harbich's "experience, accomplishment and knowledge" as three key reasons for the hiring.

"Our founding winemaker, Kip Bedell founded this winery 30 years ago. Rich has been working out here for 25," Lynne said in describing and discussing Olsen-Harbich's understanding of local viticulture and winemaking.

Olsen-Harbich describes his departure from Raphael, where he's served as head winemaker for more than a decade, as amicable, adding that he "Still has some wines to finish there; to get bottled. I'll help with the transition there."

"I was winemaker at Raphael for 14 years and did a lot," he said in a quick phone interview, "I was ready to pursue new challenges. I look forward to working with people at Bedell that I've known and respected for a long time -- Dave Thompson (vineyard manager) and Donna Rudolph (assistant vineyard manager), Trent (Preszler, CEO) and of course Kip, who I've known and been friends with for many years."

"I'm excited. I haven't been excited like this in a few years. This is a great opportunity for me."

This is an dramatic -- and potentially important -- winemaking change on North Fork -- one that brings two seemingly divergent styles together -- Olsen-Harbich's natural winemaking philosophy, spontaneous fermentations and terroir-expressing style and Bedell Cellars' polished, perhaps more-international style, one that focuses largely on blending.

Lynne said that they just don't know how Olsen-Harbich will change Bedell's wines but said that it's always "very exciting when there is a new creative force" behind a project.

Will Olsen-Harbich get to employ the spontaneous fermentations he's become so fond of in recent year? "That's why they hired me!" he said before adding that the overall wine program will remain the same -- the focus on blends, the expression of the fruit coming in from the vineyard.

With the addition of an experienced, talented winemaker like Olsen-Harbich, Bedell Cellars, already one of the top producers in the East Coast, seems poised to take things to the next level. It can take years for a change like this to really be felt, but it bears watching.

Les Howard to Host Barrel Tastings at Pindar Vineyards

By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief

When Pindar Vineyards hired Les Howard as its new winemaker in the summer of 2008, I wrote on this site that "If Les is given the freedom to make the wines that he wants to make, we can expect a sharp increase in the quality of wines coming out of Pindar's winery, which would be a very good thing."

His now-sold out 2008 Viognier was among the best whites to come out of the North Fork's largest producer, but it's time to see if he's been able to up the ante with their reds as well.

I have yet to taste any of his 2008 reds or his 2009s. That might change very soon however with a series of barrel tastings he is hosting in April.

The winery tours and barrel tastings will be offered on the first three Saturdays in April -- the 3rd, 10th and 17th. They start at 2 p.m. Tickets are $20 (free if you are a wine club member).

You can buy your tickets online or by calling 631-734-6200 x104.

Finger Lakes Wine Country: There Is Now an App for That

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor

Considering that there is an app for almost anything these days - chess, push-ups, board games, restaurants, pro sports - it only makes sense that wine regions will roll out apps as well. By "app," we're referring to an application for our wonderful wireless technology.  

This week, Finger Lakes Wine Country launched their own app, which can be downloaded for free.

So how is it?

I prefer to let readers check it out and answer that question in the comments section. But I'll start with some quick feedback:

It looks very nice. A series of appealing images scroll through. More importantly, it's easy to use. Half a dozen menu items are cleanly presented, allowing users to check out upcoming events, search maps of the Finger Lakes for wineries, and more.

My favorite is a tool called "nearby me" that pinpoints the user's location (if they choose to divulge it) and then lists precise distances to nearby attractions.

So how is the wine section? In a word, solid.

A series of maps helps users find dining spots, wineries, places to stay and things to do. And it's reasonably comprehensive. The maps are easy to use, with push buttons denoting each location.

The listings for specific wineries need some work. Users get an address, phone number, and map listing - all good. But they should also get a listing of tasting room hours right at the top. And the biographical section is a one-paragraph blob; it contains wonderful information but is hard to get through without paragraphs.

So my early verdict is that this is a clever design and another nice step toward regional relevance. But I'm no tech expert.

What say you?

Owner of 3 Brothers Winery Recovering After Attack; Two Arrested

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor
State police photos

Two men are charged with felonious assault after allegedly attacking the owner of a Seneca Lake winery on Saturday afternoon. Police say the attack happened at about 3:30 p.m.

Thomas Wulff, 28, and Michael Wulff, 27, of Pennsylvania, are accused of beating Dave Mansfield, owner and president of Three Brothers Wineries & Estates. Mansfield suffered a broken bone in his face and other facial injuries. He was treated and released from Geneva General Hospital.

The two men, who are brothers, were part of a large group touring wineries in a limousine. Winery general manager Erica Paolicelli was the first winery employee to ask the men to leave.

"The moment he walked in it was obvious that he was inebriated," Paolicelli said. "We've certainly handled some intoxicated customers before, but I've never seen a group of people so completely inebriated."

Paolicelli said that she approached one of the men and informed him that they would not be permitted to taste wine. According to winery staff, no one in the group was served any alcohol at the Three Brothers location.

 "I called our owner when I saw the man nearly fall down the stairs as he went to leave," Paolicelli said. She was concerned about the condition of the group, so Mansfield arrived to make sure they were safely leaving. According to witnesses, there was no argument or fight. Witnesses say that one of the accused brothers threw an unprovoked punch and then both men jumped on top of Mansfield.

A winery employee had to separate the brothers from Mansfield. 

"We don't want to cast blame on the limo company, but it's absolutely clear to us that this group could not have gotten this intoxicated simply tasting in wineries," Paolicelli said. She said that other wine trail members pour tastings conservatively and are careful not to serve potentially intoxicated customers.

"This doesn't happen on the wine trail. I'm sure some people will assume this is normal, but it's not. We have huge amounts of people come visit us and this never happens."

Paolicelli said Mansfield will return to work soon. The brothers have been remanded to Seneca County jail and are due in court tomorrow.

Osprey Dominion Vineyards to Install the First Wind Power Turbine at a Long Island Winery

By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief

I wrote back in May about Shinn Estate Vineyards and its desires to erect a wind turbine in its vineyard to harness East End winds for power.

That saga is on-going and filled with follow-up meetings and hearings. Owners David Page and Barbara Shinn remain hopeful that their turbine project will be underway soon -- but they won't be the first North Fork winery using wind power.

Osprey’s Dominion Vineyard today celebrated the ground breaking of their own Wind Power turbine. The producer commissioned Eastern Energy Systems, Inc. to install a 20k wind turbine at their North Fork winery in the Town of Southold. This will be the Long Island Power Authority's (LIPA) first Farm Service turbine, undertaken through the Backyard Wind Initiative created this year.

The turbine is expected to produce an estimated 42,802 kilowatt hours (kWh) of electricity per year for an annual energy savings of $7,918. The projected total cost of the project is $144,000. A LIPA rebate of $69,401 is anticipated, significantly off-setting the expense for the system. Osprey Dominion Vineyard may further reduce the cost of the system via a Federal tax incentive and by selling the excess electric energy produced back to LIPA.

ODV doesn't get a lot of publicity for it's "green" endeavors, but Osprey’s Dominion was the first winery on Long Island to power their maintenance equipment with biodiesel fuels, starting in 1999.

Osprey’s Dominion will host a ribbon-cutting event in the spring where they plan to release their first bottle of a limited edition “FLIGHT” wine, their first wine made with wind power.