New York Cork Report

What We Drank (December 7, 2010

Here is what our editors and contributors were drinking last week...

David Flaherty: Smuttynose Brewing Company Winter Ale

Now is the time of year to snuggle up by the fire and crack open a hearty, winter ale. Wait, does anyone even have a fireplace?  Hmm...perhaps I'm so jaded by living in the city, I've forgotten that millions of people can have open flames inside their homes. I'm scarily close to becoming the sad sap that actually pays for the TV channel that plays a virtual, frickin fireplace 24 hours a day. Come to think of it--where can I get that?! But I digress.

Last week, I tried the Smuttynose Brewing Company Winter Ale. I approached hesitantly, fully expecting to be disappointed. And don't get me wrong, I'm a huge fan of Smuttynose Brewery. In fact, I think they're one of the best breweries doing seasonal ales in the country (their Pumpkin and Summer seasonals are fantastic). 

Last year, I thought the Winter Ale was a train-wreck. I bought it for the restaurant without tasting it, and was burned. The staff turned their back on it and I found it tasted like Earl Grey tea filtered through a sock stuffed with grandpa's half-smoked cigars. 

But this year, ah, this year, my friends, they're on the money (I love how each breweries seasonal beers are slightly different; this ain't like making Crystal Light, folks!)  A nice, balanced complexity between some darker fruit and the earthier, rustic flavors you're looking for this time of year. And drinkable. That is always the key. 

Now, if I can just find me a fireplace...

Bryan Calandrelli: Creekside Winery 2004 Lost Barrel Red

Creekside’s 2004 Lost Barrel Red was poured for me and my coworkers after a long day of pouring wine not too long ago. I’m a big fan of the winery as their wines tend to favor balance and value.

This particular wine is not your average Creekside release though. It was made from barrel tippings otherwise known as the sediment sludge at the bottom of a barrel. Sediment from each red barrel was collected and put into a few barrels to clarify over a few years yielding this $55 red.

It revealed tons of black fruit and spicy oak on the nose.On the palate, it was full, rich and tannic with what Mr. Vaynerchuck would describe as a bit of the “Oak Monster”.

Not exactly my cup of tea but I’m sure there’s plenty of new world “oak for oak’s sake” fans out there that would buy this up even with its hefty price tag.

I’d sooner drink Creekside’s whites, their $20-$30 reds or their amazing Shiraz any day of the week.

Evan Dawson: Chateau de Pibarnon 2004 Bandol

I always find it easier to drink Bandol when it is selected by a Frenchman and, even better, a southern Frenchman -- a Bandolier, if you like. They have a better feel for which producers make the better bottlings. Some Bandol can be thick, tarry, dirty -- like drinking raw anger.

But the best Bandol is, for me, just like this one.

Big and chewy but with more muscle than fat, this wine reminds us why it's silly to attempt to judge some wines in their youth.

At six years old it's only beginning to soften around the edges. I'd prefer to see it in another five or ten years, but for now it's got that majestic Mourvedre character of tar, brooding dark fruit, and loam, with a texture approaching tree bark.

It was awesome with a cut of lamb. Just awesome.

Lenn Thompson: Sixpoint Craft Ales Sweet Action and Allagash Brewing Company White Ale

Over the weekend, we took our son into Manhattan for the first time. He had a great time, but after a long train ride followed by a people-filled walk to Rockefeller Center to see the Christmas tree, mom and dad were hungry -- and in need of a drink.

Just around the corner from the tree is Bill's Bar and Burger, which I learned about via former NYCR contributor Andy Freedman. Extremely kid friendly -- both in menu and in ambiance -- it was the perfect post-tree lunch spot with solid food, a Jackson-approved vanilla milkshake and a terrific beer list.

Anyone who knows my wife Nena knows that she's not a beer drinker. She has several renditions of "the beer face." But, I can usually get her to choke down a hefeweizen or other white ale on occasion.

This occasion, in Manhattan, having an amazing day with our little family, eating a truffled mushroom sandwich on a cold, windy day, she had not one, but two Allagash White Ales. Enjoying a day like that one with my wife and my son made the Sixpoint Sweet Action I was drinking all the sweeter. A sweet reminder that who with, what with and where we drink is often just as important as what we drink.

What We Drank (November 29, 2010): Thanksgiving Edition

I guess you could say that we're not big into "Thanksgiving Wine" columns here on the NYCR, which is why you didn't see one published here last week.

Fact is, there simply is no such thing as a single "perfect" wine for the Thanksgiving table.There are too many flavors. Too many textures. And too many people and palates to satisfy. So, rather than being prescriptive, we'll write about the wines that we drank ourselves for the holiday.

I guess you could say that we all agree that Finger Lakes riesling is a good idea for before or during Thanksgiving dinner:

Lenn Thompson: New York Pinot Noirs

In the Thompson house (either mine or my parents') we typically drink several New York wines for Thanksgiving, mainly because my family lives in Pennsylvania (and thus can barely get their hands on New York wines) and I like to introduce them to new producers and wines.

Before dinner, we diverted, at least in part, from the New York wines, enjoying bubbly from Virginia, chenin blanc from South Africa, Albarino from Spain... and Finger Lakes riesling -- Anthony Road 2009 Semi-Dry.

For dinner, the focus was set squarely on pinot noir, with bottles from Long Island (Jamesport Vineyards 2007), the Finger Lakes (Hosmer Vineyards 2007) and Niagara (Freedom Run Winery 2008) taking center stage.

All three were popular with the assembled Thompson/Sinclair/Campbell family, with the juicy, fruit-forward Hosmer probably the most popular table wide. My favorite, however was the Freedom Run with its spicy, earthy complexity.

 

Tom Mansell: Finger Lakes Cider and White Wines

We drank:

• Bellwether Original Hard Cider: Sparkling cider goes with pretty much anything.
• Lamoreaux Landing 42 North 2008: A floral gewürztraminer alternative made with Muscat Ottonel
• Lamoreaux Landing Dry Riesling 2009: Intensely fruity nose, one of my favorite 2009 Finger Lakes rieslings

 Our meal was pretty traditional, with some Lithuanian touches, including filling (a cross between stuffing and quiche) and a halupki.

I brought the radioactive-looking maple butternut squash puree, which I topped off with the roasted seeds of said squash.

Squash seeds were also killer with some Lamoreaux Landing Vidal Ice. That is, after the pie.

 

Evan Dawson: Finger Lakes and Alsace

For Thanksgiving, we drank:

• Hosmer Winery 2007 Lemberger
• Keuka Spring Vineyards 2008 Gewurztraminer
• Alsatian Gewurztraminer
• Others I can't remember.

We found the Finger Lakes gewurztraminer much more crowd pleasing.

The Alsatian version was 15% ABV along wtih some clear residual sugar and a kind of searing, jet fuel-like heat.

 

Julia Burke: Sparkling Wine and Whites

My Thanksgiving dinner began late as I was working the magical experience that is wine retail until 5 p.m.

I came home and my family launched into what it does best on national holidays: drinking. We started with Graham Beck Brut Rose and Fantinel Prosecco -- perhaps the richest, nuttiest and tastiest prosecco I've had in recent memory -- with appetizers of cheese and walnuts and dates.

Then we moved on to St. Michael-Eppan Pinot Grigio 2009 and Sheldrake Point 2007 Riesling with dinner. The riesling was a terrific match with both our traditional Thanksgiving dishes and the pumpkin, pecan and apple pies to follow.

In case you're curious, that count is five bottles of wine, three pies -- and four family members.

 

Aaron Estes: New York Whites

We were drinking the Channing Daughters Winery 2009 Scuttlehole Chardonnay that was part of a recent New York Cork Club shipment (my mom is a member). It was really good.

We also drank Lamoreaux Landing Estate White of course (my mother buys it by the case).

This is what we traditionally have with the exception of the cole shaw.

My wife's family refuses to accept that this is a dish best served on a blanket outside when having a picnic. So that is the only mar on an otherwise perfect plate.

And, of course, we had a pre-meal cheese board.

What We Drank (November 16, 2010)

Bryan Calandrelli, Niagara Editor: Cave Spring La Penna 2006

Stateside when we see Cave Spring wines they tend to be made from the riesling grape. If you're lucky you can find a pinot noir or gamay but not often. I had never seen this label before a co-worker brought it back from the tasting room.

La Penna is a appassimento-style red wine that hints at what is possible when Niagara red grapes are air dried, fermented and blended. The blend is 66% cabernet franc, 34% cabernet sauvignon with 85% air-dried fruit overall.

The drying process is done in their naturally ventilated barn which benefits from updrafts and airflow along the limestone cliffs on the Niagara Escarpment. The breezes allow for drying in the traditional Veronese method according to the website.

The aromas are of plum, dark cherry and dried prunes.

On the palate it's as lush and round as any Niagara red I've had with fine tannins and such ripe fruit flavors that it almost hints at a perceivable sweetness.

Don't be surprised if you don't see more and more producers try this style in the region on both sides of the border.

 

From Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor: Domaine Diochon 2008 Moulin-a-Vent

Last week, I was invited to participate in an online, Twitter-based tasting of four cru Beaujolais wines, including this wine, which is imported by Kermit Lynch.

The theme for this Beaujolais tasting was "The Masculine Side" -- which was a strong reminder that it's all about context. None of these wines would have seemed masculine up against most wines, but a couple did show more structure than the "average" Beaujolais.

I learned another lesson that night -- or the next night really: We can guess how a wine might develop with more time exposed to air, but we never really know.

The night of the tasting, this wine seemed tightly wound but had a dense core of currant and black cherry fruit, some spiciness and that gravelly/graphite character I love. The acidity was firm though and this wine showed more tannin than the others. I figured it'd soften a bit the next day.

Instead, the structure seemed to step forward even more. And by day three, the wine was well over the hill.

It was still my wine of the night though. Was great with dinner both nights. And wines like this made me wonder aloud why we don't celebrate real Beaujolais the way we do the insipid Nouveau.

 

From Julia Burke, Beer Editor: Sierra Nevada Celebration Ale 2010

On Sunday I bottled my first vintage of my very own wine. If that's not a cause for celebration, I don't know what is!

On the way home I picked up a sixer of this classic hoppy winter ale, which greeted me on a friendly display in the foyer of Wegman's as if to say, "Don't go a step farther. I'm all you need tonight." I came home, cracked one open and set about making chicken chili for two old friends who were stopping by.

The honey-amber-colored, well-carbonated, deliciously hoppy but beautifully balanced ale really hit the spot as I added dash after dash of tabasco to the chili. The beer has just enough chewy spice-cake malt to back up the vigorous hops, placing it head and shoulders above many of the overly-spiced winter ales I've experienced. As we finished our first pints, it occurred to all of us that we actually just wanted wings instead. I went to stick the chili in the freezer for another day, but my friends, being 25-year-old men, insisted they could chow down a bowl apiece before we went out for wings. With the super-spicy chicken and white bean chili the tongue-ripping experience was seamless and welcome after a day of wine.

20 suicide wings later, my sinuses cleared and palate completely shot, I marvelled at the timeless ability of this beer to work its way into the good things in my life, whether marking a special occasion or just an everyday pleasure. Now, and always, it's one of my "classic" beers, and this batch is the perhaps the most exciting yet. Happy 30th Anniversary, Sierra Nevada!

 

From Ron DiGennaro, Long Island Restaurant Critic: Whitehall Lane Morisoli Vineyard Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1993, Napa Valley, CA

I personally carried this magnum of the 1993 Whitehall Lane Morisoli Vineyard Reserve Cab back to New York from California nearly 15 years ago. It never left my side, not even while on the plane home.

Truth be known, I had to plead and cajole the winery owners to sell me the 1.5L large format bottle, which they took from their private cellar. So it’s safe to say I had some stock, both emotional and financial, in this bottle of wine.

Which is why I began worrying that I had waited to long to open this beauty. I had been saving it for a special event but somehow it never got opened. Then I called the winery last year and asked when might be a good time to pop it and they were adamant: “Open it now,” they instructed, somewhat aghast. Cause for concern. And still it didn’t get opened.

Until this past Saturday. No decanting, just carved away the wax on top and lifted out a rather damp, red-stained cork.

Virtually no bricking was apparent, which I took as a good sign. Certain wine experts had written that the 1993 was past its prime, but I wasn’t buying it. Besides, my bottle was 1.5L, and the larger format had to be an advantage.

Oh yes, the wine. Sorry.

Immediate aromas of intense eucalyptus, saddle leather and echoes of espresso coffee grounds leapt from our glasses. The wine was black, yet curiously medium to full-bodied, which I took to mean that it might have peaked slightly. On the palate, eucalyptus flavors repeated, as did the dark coffee. Mid plate brought out licorice, a bit of bramble, dark roasted fruit and cedar. I also detected faint barnyard, almost gamey notes. Without a doubt the wine showed beautifully and even if it was slightly past its prime that was fine by me because the complexity and structure were sound and alluring. And, frankly, fun to experience.

For me, and my guests, the wine was well worth the wait. Thank you to the Leonardini family (who took over the estate the year this wine was made) for selling me this gorgeous wine so many years ago.

What We Drank (November 9, 2010)

Here's what our editors and contributors were drinking last week...

Evan Dawson: Ravines Wine Cellars 2007 Meritage

I have now opened this wine on three separate occasions, and it has been three distinctly different wines. What a beguiling lesson for those of us who seek to power taste and ascribe a permanent score or note.

In March 2009, shortly after bottling, this wine was precocious and juicy, dark and rich. Coming from the fabulous-for-reds 2007 Finger Lakes vintage, and in the hands of perhaps the most skilled red wine maker in the region, hopes were high. I found it explosive, if slightly shrouded by oak tones.

Last week it opened up entirely differently. Almost harsh in acidity, the oak coating had been replaced by a frame of grilled and fresh herbs. It was thinner, having dropped some baby fat, but not thin.

That same bottle, one night later, had become something much more complex. It retained those herbal elements while reuniting with the juicier black fruits. There was also something hard to pin down, an interplay between ripe fruit and acidity that defied my description.

I enjoy writing tasting notes, and I think they can be tremendously valuable. But they are also malleable, given wine's ever-evolving state. This bottle reminds us.

 

Lenn Thompson: Great South Bay Brewery Massive India Pale Ale

There is more than a bit of a beer revolution underway on this narrow sand bar jutting out into the Atlantic Ocean. New micro- and nano-breweries (a fairly new term for me) have popped up all over the Island. Few of them bottle their beers, instead relying on beer shop growler stations and bars to get the word -- and their products -- out into the marketplace.

That's how a growler of this IPA founds its way into my possession -- and my pint glass -- over the weekend. Until then, I'd only heard about Great South Bay Brewery via the local beer geek channels.

Even at 6.8% abv, I'd term this a session IPA because, while showing stylistic hop character and bitterness, it's not over the top bitter or piney (only 50 IBUs). It's well balanced and didn't bludgeon my palate into submission after a couple pints.

I enjoy having my palate ravaged by hops as much as the next hop addict, but not at the beginning of a long day of sipping.

On Saturday, it paired beautifully with lots of college football, but I'd imagine it'd work really well with sharp-but-not-too-crumbly cheddar cheese.

 

Tom Mansell: Finger Lakes Distilling Glen Thunder

As the weather gets colder, whiskey is making more regular appearances in my glass. This time, I chose a local offering with some real personality.

Finger Lakes Distilling's Glen Thunder Corn Whiskey is not messing around.

Neat, it's like a corn muffin with a burning 90-proof edge that warms from the inside out. On the rocks, it's clean and smooth but maintains an almost smoky, crusty cornbread finish.

In both cases, it's got a substantial buttery mid-palate that makes it worth sipping and savoring.

But hey, let's be honest. It's also perfectly okay to hit this from a hip flask while you're raking those last leaves. 

Bryan Calandrelli: Le Macchiole Paleo Rosso Toscana 2002

Earning the title of "Cab Franc Guy" in the greater western New York area hasn't come without seemingly hundreds of conversations about my favorite grape. In these friendly discussions there's usually someone who mentions that they don't generally like cab franc yet there's been one that has made them reconsider once or twice.

The cab franc mentioned by people who don't like cab franc is usually this bottle of Le Macchiole Paleo Rosso Toscana. This Super Tuscan cab franc shows the grape in a ripe and rustic, undeniably Italian manor.

Aromas of black fruit, dark chocolate, leather and tar compliment its nearly opaque red hue. There's nothing thin, vegetal or acidic in this wine and its weight, tannins and alcohol are well incorporated. In a blind setting I definitely wouldn't pick it as being cab franc.

That being said it was still delicious.

I dug this wine immensely but for the usually asking price of $80 or more, it's not going to reach my table again anytime soon.

 

Julia Burke: Mastroberardino 2003 Aglianico Irpinia

Most wine lovers would enter a wine bar with 80 wines by the glass and be in heaven.

When my fellow wine geeks and I visit our favorite wine bar, however, our first question to the garrulous owner is invariably, "Hey Jeff, got anything open that's not on the list?"

That's how I ended up with a glass of this 2003 Aglianico, not on the menu but right up my alley for a post-concert drink with new friends.

The maturity only gave it grace; rustic notes of dried herbs, dusty florals, and black truffle softened a still-fierce grace note of sour cherry, begging for a wood-fire soppressata pizza.

I like my Italians a little more mature (what can I say) and this one hit the spot.

 

David Flaherty: Boulder, Sweaty Betty Blonde, Colorado

It was time to clean out the beer fridge here at work. The Autumn season is upon us and I was itching to make room for the brown ales, the porters and the rich Belgian beers I'd ordered for November. It was time to say goodbye to the beers of summer, so I did some clearing and purchased the scraps for my home fridge (a nice little perk of restaurant life).

Boulder Beer Company was the first microbrewery in Colorado. As the movement began in earnest in California at Anchor Steam and Sierra Nevada, Boulder Beer soon followed. In what is now a saturated, beautiful bastion of breweries like New Belgium and Odells, they are the grandfather of the Colorado scene. And grandfather needs his respect.

The Sweaty Betty Blonde is the perfect summer beer (not to mention the perfect beer for the near blistering conditions of my Queens apartment; damn those pre-war radiators can do some heating). So, in the near Havana-like conditions, I sat on my couch last night and cracked one open. A Pale Wheat Ale in style, it had a hint of orange peel and lemon on the nose, with a beautiful crisp body. It took me back to July and for a moment, I could feel the summer sun on my face. Then I opened my eyes and I was in Cuba again.

I love watching the seasons change through the beers in my glass. It's about time for a big, hearty Belgian Tripel, people. I hope you're ready.

What We Drank (November 2, 2010)

This is what we were drinking last week...

David Flaherty: Vale d' Algare (60% Merlot, 40% Touriga Nacional), Ribetejano, Portugal, 2007

I could go on and on about the magic of Portugal; so much so you'd have to smack me across the face to get me to stop blathering. The misty look passes across my eyes as I go back to the three weeks I spent there when I was an exchange student. (It's too bad I didn't care about wine at the time because I certainly would have planned a completely different trip).

Most people associate Portugal with the incredible, fortified Port wines but there's been a huge groundswell in the last couple of decades and today you can find some stunningly unique, richly flavored dry wines coming from there.

Medium purple in color, the Vale d' Algare gives off an aroma of dark plum jam with hints of vanilla (they use a bit of French Oak in the aging process). It is what I've come to associate with the wines of Portugal: spicy on the palate, rich in flavor and with a fair amount of cleansing acidity. Notes of cured meats swirl with dark cherry, with medium tannins. It was screaming for food.

If you can go to Portugal, go! But if you're looking for a new wine exploration, check out the dry wines from there. And if you want to read up a little more on why I'm so transfixed by the region, click here for a longer piece I wrote about their wines earlier this year: "Portugal: the Land that Time Forgot."

Julia Burke: Southern Tier PumKing

For starters, I had Election Day off. There was a time when I would spend the weeks leading up to Election Day encouraging young people to vote and protesting a cause or two; when I knew the ins and outs of every Green, Democratic and Libertarian candidate; when I would sit up late watching Congressional election results shouting at the TV and texting my friends who cared as much as I did about "the issues." That was back in college.

This year, I rolled out of bed at nine, realized I had to move my car due to the city phenomenon known as "alternate parking," and realized further and with much chagrin that because of my recent change of address my polling place was half an hour away. Remember the beer at the beginning of this post? Good, because the fact that it was on tap at the beer store close to my polling place was SOLELY responsible for my invocation of civic duty this year. I threw on my John Belushi-tribute COLLEGE hoodie, drove 20 miles to the suburbs, voted, and came home not with a badass purple index finger but with a growler of Southern Tier PumKing - the beer that has so claimed my heart as the king of all fall beers that I simply won't review it for fear of emotional bias.

What's it smell like? Entering Grandma's kitchen to find that her world-famous pumpkin pie is almost-but-not-quite out of the oven. What's it taste like? Sweet, malty, chewy, spicy, and hoppy, all in equal amounts. I simply cannot get through a fall season without this beer. My candidates are all far too liberal to ever win major races, but with a growler of this supremely pumpkin-y beer at my side and a bowl of popcorn to match, all seems right with the world.

  Lenn Thompson: Blue Point Brewing Company Brown Beaver Pilsner

When it comes to beer, pilsners really aren't my thing. I'll drink them and can appreciate well-made renditions, but it's simply not my preferred style. Sometimes the story behind a beverage is too good to miss out on though.

Anyone who is into drinking local should try beers like this one -- which originated as the winner of last year’s 13th Annual B.E.E.R. Brew-Off. (B.E.E.R. being the Brewers East End Revival, a local homebrew club.) The brewers Jim Brown, Lloyd Kent, Bill Thorne and Bobby Gormley have been brewing for years in Fort Salonga as Brown Beaver Brewers & Company, thus the name.

This was a one-off, special run brew -- which I guess means they won't make it again -- so this has that going for it as well.

How's the beer? It's a well-made pilsner -- cistrusy and a little creamy on the mid-palate with nice hop bitterness at the end.

I'm friendly with a lot of local homebrewers and I think it'd be outstanding to see more of their brews end up as one-time runs at commercial breweries.

What We Drank (October 26, 2010)

This is what our contributors and editors were drinking last week...

David Flaherty: Spezial Weize, Hopf, Germany

Nestled in the Bavarian alps lies the Weissbierbrauerei Hopf. It's been in existence for over 100 years and I'd imagine it's something like Santa's little workshop. The beers are just so damn good that it has to be run by magical, little elves who dash about the brewery clad in tiny lederhosen, whistling ancient German folk tunes while they work.

But this is serious business. The beer produced here is some of the finest representations of authentic German Weiss (wheat) beers you'll ever come across. These are no ordinary magical elves.

The Special Weise is only brewed once a year in the fall, and as with all their other beers, they only use five ingredients: wheat malt, barley malt, Alps water, yeast and hops. Why that matters, is because there is such a rush of fall spices and flavors, I could have sworn they tossed in coriander, orange peel and cinnamon. Nope, it's all from the play between those five ingredients.

On the nose, wafts of bubble gum and bananas rolled in cinnamon and nutmeg rise to greet you. On the palate, I could have sworn I was tasting a new recipe for orange marmalade and clove bread. It finishes with hints of golden wheat and tangerines.

The moral? Don't mess with magical Bavarian elves. Just take what they give you and slowly walk away. They are mischievous and not to be trusted, but, man, can they make a good hefeweisen.

Evan Dawson: Chateau Lanessan 1989 Haut-Medoc

A friend bought this middle-tier Bordeaux at dinner this weekend, and, while the wine was still muscularly structured and pleasant, the service was a mess.

Wr dined in Connecticut, so thankfully this isn't bad local service we're talking about. Nonetheless, bad service can be universally frustrating.

First, the waiter took 15 minutes to figure out that my friend's first request was sold out. Then there was no suggestion of a similar wine for the price, and by the time this bottle arrived we were already halfway through our main course.

Then the waiter presented the bottle, only to disappear and reemerge with a decanter full of wine. I'm not suggesting he switched the bottles, but in my opinion it's bad form not to open an older bottle in front of the customer.

Enough complaining. The wine was lovely, and life is good.

Lenn Thompson: Blue Point Brewery Toxic Sludge Black India Pale Ale

You may remember that our beer editor, Julia Burke, first introduced you to Blue Point Brewry's Toxic Sludge India Pale Ale two months ago, before its release.

I finally got my hands on some (and saw it at my local Whole Foods at the growler-filling station to boot) and opened it this weekend, with a little help from our cheese editor, Aaron Estes.

The black IPA seem to be a hot style of late, but I've only tasted a couple, including this one now.

I like it -- quite a bit -- actually but I'm not sure how many I could drink. Imagine the flavors of a dry stout but the body of something more in the porter range, but with the astringent hoppy bitterness of an IPA on the finish.

That's what this one tastes like. Again, really liked it in a 22oz. bomber bottle, but a full jug or six pack in an afternoon? Probably not.

Honestly though, that barely matters. I'm a sucker for these charity-focused brews and wines. I wish more producers made them.

What We Drank (October 19, 2010)

This is what our editors and contributors were drinking last week...

Evan Dawson: Gai'a 2009 Wild Ferment Assyrtiko 

There is a slowly growing buzz about Greek wines, and I'd love to have more access to them. They're hard to find in Rochester and the Finger Lakes, and this bottle was a gift from a friend.

What a fascinating and bewitching wine.

Many wines shake hands and say, "I'll offer you citrus and honey, with a bit of flowers," or "Here is some lime and peach." This wine plays hard-to-get, forcing you to think.

What a nice change.

It's a crisp, stony wine and I look forward to finding more of it.

 

Julia Burke: Fleur du Cap 2008 Sauvignon Blanc

An unfiltered South African sauvignon blanc? Yes please.

I tried this at work when a rep brought a bag full of Fleur du Cap goodies for us to taste. At the time this was my favorite, so I brought it home for reexamination. Its Wine of Origin is Western Cape, for those who are SA wine geeks.

For an unfiltered wine it's quite clear with a lovely pale yellowish tinge.On the nose, it's gooseberries, lemon zest and just a touch of asparagus, with firm acidity and a lovely long finish.

When I brought it over to Freedom Run to taste with my former coworkers while I checked on my own wine, they said it reminded them of Sancerre.

For the curiosity factor alone it was definitely worthwhile, but it's also a tasty and refreshing sauvignon blanc that is begging for a cheese plate.

Tom Mansell: Heron Hill 2007 Cabernet Franc Ingle Vineyard

Black cherry and strawberry on the nose. On the palate, raspberry, black currant and a not insignificant dose of toasty oak.

In spite of the hot vintage of 2007, it's still got a decent amount of acidity, which defines the structure.

It's a bit hotter than the 12.5% ABV on the label would imply and a lingering finish turns to a slight toffee note after some time.

It seems that Ingle Vineyard, located on Canandaigua Lake, got some of the benefits of the 2007 vintage yet maintained the classic profile of a Finger Lakes red, defined more by acidity than tannin.

As harvest wraps up in 2010, it will be interesting to see how producers approach another spectacularly hot vintage.

Lenn Thompson: Bear Flag Wines NV Dark Red Blend

I get regular wine samples sent to me from wineries in California (and other places) that don't really fit the NYCR editorial bent. I still diligently taste them, ponder them and use them to keep my "house palate" at bay.

This blend of petit sirah, alicante bouschet, zinfandel, petit verdot and tempranillo certainly fits the name "Dark Red." And the packaging will no-doubt garner attention on a wine shop shelf (it's also sealed under screwcap).

And you know what? For $9, it certain has its place and I'd much rather drink this than something like Yellow Tail.

Big, jammy and soft, it's loaded with dark berries and plum fruit and just a little spice.

Is it complex? Nope. Is it well structured or age worthy? HELL no. Would I ever buy it? No. But I'd drink it at a party if presented with a group of similarly priced wines.

David Flaherty: Moscatel Seco, Botani, Jorge Ordonez & Co, 2009

I'm going deeper and deeper into my obsession with Spanish whites. If you happen to call for me one day and my cell phone has been disconnected, don't be alarmed. Calmly check my apartment for recent airline receipts and you will find I've run off to Spain.

There's something both intriguing and limitless about Spanish wines and, in particular, the whites. Both of incredible value and of unique character, they are in a camp all their own. I recently purchased a bottle of Botani at a new local wine shop in my neighborhood (go to your local shop today—if they're friendly, passionate and eager to share their knowledge, befriend them. They will lead you to hidden treasures), and was again, transported to new flavors.

The Botani is a unique wine as it hails from Málaga on the Costa del Sol (Coast of the Sun) on the Mediteranean Sea, a warm, sub-tropical region. To give you perspective, the region is right next to Jerez, the powerhouse region known for it's sherries. Made from the Moscatel grape—the Muscat of Alexandria, a member of the Muscat family, to be precise—the Botani sees about 40% barrel fermentation, with the rest being fermented in stainless steel. This gives the wine a nice textural body while not imparting much flavor from the oak.

Very light straw in color with hints of green. Creamy citrus notes on the nose blast you with a lime peel mist. Alive and vibrant with an acidity that snaps you to attention. My entire mouth salivated like a puppy with a new bone. It was like eating a fresh grapefruit first thing in the morning after waking with a hangover. Notes of tropical fruit and lime creme fraiche on the palate with a finish that sustained for more than ten seconds. Left me refreshed like drinking a lime-ade at mile 10 of a marathon.

It could be dangerous for me if I keep encountering Spanish whites this unique. I just may have to run away to the Mediteranean with only a hobo's handbag to my name.

What We Drank (October 5, 2010)

This is what our editors and contributors were drinking last week....

Bryan Calandrelli: Creekside Estate Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2008, Ontario

When I think of Niagara -- Ontario or New York -- whites usually its chardonnay and riesling that come to mind. Both are obviously cool climate and are pretty consistent from winery to winery.

That doesn't mean that grapes like sauvignon blanc, viognier and chenin blanc aren't common though. In fact the majority of Ontario wineries make a sauvignon blanc and many use oak aging as well.

This Creekside Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2008 from Ontario is a fine example of how well this variety can do here. Forward aromas of grapefruit, pineapple and chalk come through in this $13 gem.

The talented winemaking and viticulture team at Creekside were kind enough to leave out the cat piss and over the top grassy flavors that I generally avoid.

It's near perfect balance, modest weight and round feel is such a surprise for a wine at this price point. I've had a handful of great sauvignon blancs from other local wineries including Peninsula Ridge and Ravine that have convinced me of the grape¹s potential but they usually fetch $20 or more.

Creekside seems able to turn out quality and keep the price competitive. Cheers to that!

David Flaherty: Ancient Nipponia, Hitichino Nest, Kiuchi Brewery, Japan

Talk about evolution. From Sake brewery to beer brewery and now with some dabbling in winemaking (they have merlot and chardonnay planted on the property), Kiuchi Brewery is on a roll and gathering steam. Established in 1823 as a producer of high-quality, traditional Sake, they later added beer making to their roster in 1996.

With their wisely cute little owl logo, they've quickly become recognizable to beer drinkers all around the world. Look out Ronald McDonald, the owl is coming for you and he means business.

A new offering this year from Hitichino Nest (the name the Kiuchi Brewery uses for its beers), The Ancient Nipponia is meant to capture the taste and spirit of Japan.

Using ingredients that were created in the Land of the Rising Sun — the malt and hops are of Japanese origin — it is a special beer that took me by surprise last week and made me yearn for a night in Kioto or a hike up Mt Fuji.  

Technically a Belgian Pale Ale, the Ancient Nipponia reminded me of a saison but then took me for an unsuspecting turn. Made with a cross-pollination between the European Golden Melon and the Japanese barley malt Shikoku, the new malt strain was thought to have disappeared from the scene about 50 years ago. However, Kiuchi acquired some seeds and began planting them in a small garden about 5 years ago. Also using the Sorachi Ace hop (a strain originally created by Sapporo), this beer is an all-Japanese creation.

Very lemony on the nose on palate, the head seems to rise forth like a billowing pillow of foam. A bit of lemon and tea on the nose gives way to a citrusy, honeyed lemon flavor with a hint of malty sweetness.  An impressive, unique beer. 

I'm beginning to like the little owl.  Now if only I could say the same about Ronald...

Evan Dawson: Zenato 2005 Valpolicella Superiore Ripassa

When you're feeling the urge for a guilty pleasure wine -- maybe a monstrous, jammy California cabernet, for example -- I'd humbly suggest a high-value alternative. When Valpolicella is done well, it can deliver excellent QPR. And the best versions are done in the ripasso style.

This wine is a wonderful example. It's unabashedly jammy and flirtatious, proudly voluptuous. It's the short skirt-clad woman at the bar, utterly lacking timidity and willing to kiss you in front of your friends. It gives away almost nothing in the way of acid, but a balanced, elegant wine is not the point.

Not oaky but brushed up a little with wood, this is hardly complex but also extremely well made. The Ripasso style offers more weight, and some like to call this style a "baby Amarone." Maybe. There's raisin here, but plenty more.

I can't drink these wines every night. But when the urge strikes, I find them much more interesting and happily mouth-filling than many other ostensibly "serious" wines.

Lenn Thompson: Olivier Leflaive 2008 1er Cru Clos St. Marc Chassagne-Montrachet

For many years I've been tasting "Burgundian" chardonnays being made in New York. And for years I've been doing so with only limited experience actually tasting White Burgundy -- at least examples with any sort of pedigree.

Last night -- thanks to a Twitter-based tasting sponsored by Fredrick Wildman & Sons -- I had the opportunity to taste four such wines from Olivier Leflaive raning from $52 to $102.

Even if they were all from a single producer (meaning not a wide range of examples) they redefined what barrel-influenced chardonnay can be. Instead of coming across as smoky, caramelly or raw wood character, the oak on all four was nutty and restrained and the acidity was significant but also seamlessly integrated into the wine. There weren't any sharp edges in these wines.

My favorite of the group, the Olivier Leflaive 2008 1er Cru Clos St. Marc Chassagne-Montrachet, retails for $90 and nothing could be more depressing. At that price, it will be a special occasion indeed that I get to enjoy the focused elegance of this rich-but-balanced, lengthy chardonnay that combines subtle nuttiness, lemon and just-ripe pear flavors with chalky minerality.

When our little tasting party broke up, I poured myself a glass as I picked up and did the dishes. And guess what? I liked it even better at room temperature.

I know what local producers mean when they use "Burgundian" to describe their barrel aged chardonnay, but now I know a bit more about what White Burgundy really tastes like.

What We Drank (September 21, 2010)

 This is what our editors and contributors were drinking last week....

 
Lenn Thompson: Wolffer Estate 2005 Reserve Chardonnay (Hamptons)

If you have any of this knocking around in your cellar, chill it only lightly and open it tonight. It's nearly impossible to know if it's truly peaking (and this was my last one) but it's tasting so delicous right now, that I don't want you to miss it.

I've been a vocal advocate for less (okay, usually no) oak in Long Island chardonnay, but Wolffer's winemaker, Roman Roth, has been crafting well-balanced chardonnays of varying styles for years. He truly does make most of his wines with aging in mind -- this wine is a fine example.

Any raw oak flavors have faded away, leaving lovely roasted nuts, soft vanilla and an intriguing juniper berry character, all supporting a still-lively core of pear and citrus fruit.

The acidity is still fresh, balancing the rich creamy mouthfeel on the mid-palate, and making it damn near perfect with our pasta tossed with roasted squash, roasted garlic and sauteed kale.

I'm not saying that you should hold onto barrel aged chardonnay from any ole Long Island producer, but with the best, five years in the cellar will clearly be rewarded.

Evan Dawson: Paumanok Vineyards 2004 Grand Vintage Merlot (North Fork)

This is an excellent example of why wine needs time to show off the evolution of its character.

We opened this bottle in solidarity with my wife's parents, who are staying at Shinn Estate this week for their first trip to Long Island wine country.

They loved their visit to Paumanok, so we thought we'd connect to their experience.

This wine opens as pure, rich soil. I mean that in a wonderful sense. It's like rich loamy earth pockmarked with dark cherry notes. Full and long, but also showing the kind of acidity that has kept it so remarkably fresh. It was a huge hit on the first night.

In a reversal of a more typical pattern, the second night saw the wine shed much of the earth in favor of voluptous primary fruit. If you could somehow pour a glass of night one and a glass of night two, and taste them side-by-side, you'd not possibly declare them to be the same wine. If you were me, you would dig them both for showing unique sides without ever showing much oak. We've got one more bottle left of this, and I'm going to hold it for quite a while to see what else develops.

Julia Burke: Thomas Coyne 2004 Mourvedre, Contra Costa County

I'm a firm believer that when done right, mourvedre is one of the sexiest of all grapes. This is mourvedre done right, and though I typically have to be sold hard on Californian wines, I couldn't ignore the raw sex appeal of this baby.

With a nose of bitter baker's chocolate with a hint of chili pepper and sweaty, horse barn-y musk, the nose on this wine only suggests what the palate has in store: an explosion I could only describe to my co-workers as Javier Bardem in a glass.

It's full-throttle testosterone tangoing with rustic European charm, dirty and lusty with tannin and earth, and oh, that finish...flashes of everything from Cheerios-esque minerality to sweaty sex musk in the backseat of a leather car make for a length that was akin to my life flashing before my eyes.

Ladies and gentlemen, this may be the most rapturously I've ever spoken about a California wine.

Pair it with the Solomon Burke song "Flesh and Blood" and plan on staying in.

David Flaherty: Pêche Mel Scaldis, Brasserie Dubuisson, Belgium

Scaldis (the original version) is a Belgian Strong Pale Ale that clocks in at a whopping 12% abv -- that's a boatload of malt to hilt you over the head and a virtual rocket to the moon. Drink a few of these while dancing in Brugges one night and you'll be sure to kiss the next morning goodbye.

 

After noticing that local Belgian students were mixing it with Peach Geuze Lambic to take the bite out of its malty bite -- but in no way lessening its alcoholic vise grip -- the brewery (Brasserie Dubuisson) decided to take the clever combination of the students' recipe and brew their own version.  

What they came up with is the Pêche Mel. Brewing the regular version of Scaldis, they've altered the recipe a bit, adding peach puree to the mix and bring the beer down to 8.5% abv.

 

They call it the "Pêche Mel Bush" in Europe, but when they tried to come to the shores of the U.S., Anheuser-Busch put up a stink -- I mean, a Bud Light drinker may just confused when he sees this on the shelf -- so they changed the name to Pêche Mel Scaldis for the U.S. market.

 

It is a beast of a beer. In all honesty, I felt a bit like I was being held down and force-fed a handful of fresh peaches covered in Vermont maple syrup.  

Delicious?  Hmmm...don't know if I'd go there. I did drink the whole beer, though, and rather quickly. It was strangely terrifying and titillating at the same time. A raging bull in a velvet jacket.

What We Drank (September 14, 2010)

 This is what our editors and contributors were drinking last week...

Lenn Thompson: Persimmon Creek Vineyards 2008 Cabernet Franc (Georgia)

Anyone who knows me -- or at least my wine tastes -- knows that I'll at least try cabernet franc from just about anywhere. So, when Persimmon Creek Vineyards in northeastern Georgia (the state, not the country) asked if they could send me theirs, I jumped at the opportunity.

I don't know much about wine in the southeastern United States -- in my mind it's often blocked off together as scuppernog country -- but Persimmon Creek has riesling, merlot, seyval blanc and cabernet franc planted in their vineyard.

And based on this wine, I'd say their site is decidedly cool climate for the deep south.

Smelling and drinking this wine took me back to some of the first Long Island cabernet francs I ever tasted. The nose is like a raspberry nestled into a salad of bell pepper, asparagus and Brussels sprout with a charcoal fire burning somewhere nearby. The palate is similar with green notes -- more than even I like -- overwhelming some nice ripe fruit flavors. The finish is nice, with gentle grip, until a little bitter oak note pops up.

Would I drink this again? Yes, I would if only for the educational value. I had our cheese editor taste this next to some 2007 Long Island cabernet franc over the weekend and said "this is what some of the Long Island wines were like just a decade ago." They've come a LONG way through even more hard work.

Will Georgia get there? I have no idea, but they have plenty of reason for hope.

Julia Burke: Heavy Seas Marzen

This week I'm working on a New York Oktoberfestbier taste-off (stay tuned for the post later this week), but in the midst of all those New Yorkers I picked up this offering from Clipper City Brewing Company's Heavy Seas lineup.

The Baltimore brewery has several winners among its pirate-themed Heavy Seas beers, and I was stoked to see this addition.

This Marzen pours clear gold-amber into a lipped pint glass with a light one-finger head and faint lacing which does not retain.

The nose is delicate noble hop citrus notes and toasty caramel malt with just a touch of Heath bar -- very subtle, but pleasant for sure.

On the palate there's a medium-bodied malt profile, just a touch of sweetness but not unbalanced, and a finish that's short and just a touch grassy as the hops kick in again.

It's extremely sessionable, with no one component outsinging the others, and goes down just a little too smooth, but there's something rather unpolished about that finish, and on the whole it's rather unmemorable. I'll drink the rest and enjoy it, but then I'm going back to my New York 'festbiers!

David Flaherty: Burg, Marcel Deiss, 2003, Alsace

After being involved now with the last three Summers of Rielsing at my workplace, I've consumed so much riesling and talked so much about terroir that, at this point, you might as well whisk me off to the Mosel Valley and plant me feet-first into the soil amongst the vines.  That way, I could serve as a human wine fountain and well-wishers from near and far can come by and fill their wineskins from my pores.

While not a 100% riesling, the Burg from Marcel Deiss (60% Riesling, 40% Gewurztraminer) gets its burst of acidity from the riesling. 

Like most Alsatian whites, its got a hugely aromatic nose. Notes of honeysuckle, bitter almond and lemon meringue rise forth to greet your nostrils. 

On the palate, these notes are confirmed, and it has a medium-plus body with an initial off-dryness that is then slowly washed away with cleansing acidity leaving the mouth dry. 

Maybe I should reconsider having myself buried in an Alsatian vineyard...I mean, have you seen pictures of that place? Storybook.

Evan Dawson: Chateau la Caminade 2006 Cahors

This wine appeared on the list at our favorite restaurant, and we were curious enough to try it.

We should have been able to guess.

Can we all agree that the ubiquity of milk chocolate flavors is a lamentable progression? I loved Kit Kat bars growing up, yes. Not in my Cahors.

My wife picked up something vaguely green as well, which would have been welcome to me, if only to shield the chocolate tones.

The waitress said it was a popular wine, which only made me sadder.

What We Drank (September 8, 2010)

This is what our editors and contributors were drinking last week....

David Flaherty: Sorachi Ace, Brooklyn Brewery

Brooklyn Brewery Brewmaster, Garrett Oliver, is a mad man. He could easily rest on his laurels with all the great beers he's produced, but he relentlessly pushes the envelope again and again. Every two months or so, he and his motley crew of brewers in Williamsburg release their Brewmaster's Reserve Series (which I'm happy to say, will always have a home on my draft list at Terroir Tribeca).

 

Although not his latest release, I finally got around to tasting the Sorachi Ace.  It blew my doors off.  I'm a huge fan of Saison-style beers (Belgian Farmhouse Ales which are usually brewed with Belgian yeasts, unfiltered and seasoned with coriander and lemon zest). 

 

In this case, Garrett and team are using the rare 'Sorachi Ace' hop which was developed in 1988 by a large Japanese brewery but is rarely found in the U.S.  Brooklyn Brewery sources it from a hop farm in Oregon and it is the only hop used in this beer, so as to focus on its unique character. 

It's a delicous beast and is the perfect tipple for the end of the Summer. Golden in color, it smacks you willingly in the mouth with a bright, spicy lemon character. It's bold and yet incredibly drinkable, finishing dry and leaving you refreshed, quenched and ready for another smack.

It must have sub-consciously inspired my wife and I's latest homebrew because we wanted a saison that REALLY smacks you in the mouth with flavor. For a good time, check out our awesome (and controversial) Green Chili Saison, click here. 

Evan Dawson: Raphael 2007 Sauvignon Blanc

My father-in-law announced he would be making clams and he asked Morgan and me to bring a suitable wine match.

We brought two: a 2007 Chablis and this Long Island white.

The Chablis smelled and tasted like briny ocean air and green apple, while the Raphael was all about snappy apple, lemongrass and grapefruit.

Curiously, in isolation the Rapahel gave off a whiff of that classic Long Island white wine salinity, but it was much more subdued when sampling it next to the terroir missile that was the Chablis.

Both were big hits.

Summer is waning, sadly, and I have grown to love the combination of shellfish and Long Island whites.

By the way, that's our bacon-wrapped cherry tomato in the pic; it's not some bizarre clam.

Lenn Thompson: Domaine Bois de Boursan 2003 Chate Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée des Félix 

For me, this is a wine with a story -- and it has nothing to do with its origin.

And I have Evan Dawson and Tom Mansell to thank for it.

Last winter, Tom and I engaged in a weight-loss challenge. The first one to lose 10% of his starting weight would receive a case of wine from the other not to exceed $250, selected by Evan. Tom worked hard to win...but he didn't know what he was up against. I won handily and it was time for the wines.

Evan and I talked a bit and he convinced me that he could put together a KILLER half-case for that money and after a look at my cellar revealed very little space, I relented.

This is the first wine from that winning half-case that I've opened and wow was it good.

I don't know a ton about CdP, but I know that I love the savory qualities they often have. This one was gamey with rosemary, lavender and other herbs on the nose with a smokey bacon-meets-fresh asphalt quality to it -- with black raspberry and black cherry beneath.

Big and dense, the flavors matched the nose beautifully, with chewy tannins creating a combination of flavors and structure that made me crave roast leg of lamb.

At $80, it's not something I can drink often, but CdP hits me right where I like it. Thanks, Evan and thanks Tom.

Tom Mansell: Ithaca Brewing Company Outdoor Ale

It takes a lot of beer to make good wine, or so the saying goes. Ithaca Beer Co. is the gracious host of the annual Ithaca Brew Fest, and this year they came out swinging. 

In addition to their standard and seasonal fare, they were pouring their White Gold and this lovely American Pale Ale.

Outdoor Ale is wet-hopped with freshly-harvested local Willamette hops, which provide a really cool grassy nose.

 Behind the grass there are all kinds of tropical fruit notes (it's like the sauvignon blanc of beer!) with some bubble gum/cotton candy thrown in. 

It finishes with a good amount of bitterness and is a refreshing harvest offering, perfect for after a hot day of picking and pressing.

What We Drank (August 30, 2010)

This is what we've been drinking...

Evan Dawson: Chateau Montaud 2009 Cotes de Provence Rose

For $8, this wine is an absurd value. For its regular list price of $12, it's still very, very good.

I picked it up on sale at our local store when oppressive summer heat staged an encore. It turned out to be an excellent match for our food and the weather. I tend to think wine and weather is overly discussed, but I'm fully on board with rose in summer. 

And for all of the wonderful rose made in NY state these days, it's nice to have that reference point of what the best rose producing region in the world is doing. This one brought perhaps a bit less of the classic Provencal floral aromatics, and instead delivered glazed melon, but who can argue? It was crisp, refreshing, and deftly made. A true steal, a wonderful QPR.

Julia Burke: Selento Rosso, Masserie Pisari 2007

I attended a tasting of Michael Skurnik wines recently, the highlight of which was the Italian table. There was more character and value among the ten or twelve Italians I tasted than anywhere else in the room.

Particularly interesting was this Negroamaro, a unique and oh-so-Italian example in the $15 price range.

I've had some damn good Negroamaro lately, and this one continued the winning streak.

The nose showed yummy tar, definite notes of clove spice, and dark fruit which exploded into a palate of juicy middle-of-summer blackberries. I loved this wine for its genuine personality and for how much it made me want to spend two hours in the kitchen cooking a meal to pair.

Lenn Thompson: Ridge Vineyards 2008 Lytton Springs, Pagani Ranch and York Creek

Saturday night, I joined -- virtually, via Twitter -- some folks in tasting these three just-released zinfandel-centered wines. 

For a cool-climate wine enthusiast with a palate more used to ABV topping out at 13% or so, it took me a few sips of each -- these were 14.4%, 14.9% and 15% respectively -- to get used to the size here, but once I did, I was surprised by the balance and relative elegance these showed.

These aren't you're simple, juicy $12 zinfandels. Not by a long shot.

The Lytton Springs showed the most high-toned fruit of the lot with a floral quality and surprising acidity. Ultimately, it seemed a bit thin, but only because of the two monsters next to it.

The Pagani Ranch was definitely the most approachable of the three, with intense, lush fruit, better integrated structure and beautiful spice. This was my preferred wine on days 1 and 3 of tasting them.

The York Creek was just a monster. On the day of the tasting it was incredibly dense with dark, brooding fruit and a savory, umami side to it that intrigued. It wasn't giving much up though. By day two, it had uncrossed its arms, pushing forward more of the fruit while retaining that savoriness. My favorite on day 2, it fell apart on day 3 however.

Bryan Calandrelli: Szóke Mátyás Cabernet 2002

Once again I was in the right place at the right time to try something special.

This bottle of Hungarian wine was brought over by hand from a woman that stopped in the winery last weekend. Without one word of English on the label it wasn’t easy to get background info on it but what I could deduce after some wine encyclopedia snooping was that it was from the region of Mátraaja and the area of Gyongyostarján.

Revealing a beautiful brick garnet color in the glass this wine showed mature aromas of dried cherry, strawberry preserves, nutmeg, tobacco and cinnamon. On the palate it was perfectly balanced with good acid, great flesh and fine tannins.

I got an Italian vibe from this wine overall. I gathered it was a Cab Franc/Sauvignon blend after some deliberation.

My sommelier friend described it as Bordeaulean leaving us to agree that it had old world qualities that put it in good company. It was a fun wine to try in the middle of a workday and the story behind it made me want to go to Hungary.

David Flaherty: Hanssens Artisanaal, Oude Gueuze, Belgium

Lambics are some of the strangest beverages on the planet Earth. If there is terroir in beer, this is it.

 

This last week, I visited my brother in Seatlle. In preparation for our camping trip to Mt. Rainier, we attacked the local craft beer storm like the Vikings stormed a village.  (View the complete list of our booty here: http://bit.ly/arxPSj)

 

I was shocked to hear he wasn't familiar with lambics or other "sour" beers, for that matter.  It was time to take him to beer school. Lambics hail from the Pajottenland region of Belgium and, in contrast to other breweries, they celebrate their local bacteria like royalty. Spontaneously fermented in large open vats, the brewers use ambient yeasts present in the air which give a unique quality specific to their immediate surroundings.

 

With slightly funky notes of apple cider vinegar on the nose, what follows is nothing short of a death-defying roller coaster ride. A bracing acidity grabs a hold of your tongue and torques your mouth into a joyful bear hug. Dry as a bone and stridently complex, this Gueuze (a blend of 1-3 year old Lambics) is a standard-bearer.

 

The beautiful thing? Hanssens has been making them this way since 1896. I love a good antique.

What We Drank (August 24, 2010)

Evan Dawson: Pichon Lalande 1975 Pauillac

We wanted to open something special with a friend on a recent visit, and we're fortunate to have a local source for excellently stored aged Bordeaux. 

The most fascinating aspect came in wondering whether a wine of this profile will ever be made again. That's because 1975 was, as I understand it, a vintage that produced hard and severe tannins, and the top wines were oppressive in their youth. These days, even the top wines around the world are carefully managed to offer an opportunity to drink young. Yes, tannins can be burly in many reds, but 1975 seems to have been a more austere and wild time in winemaking. Flying consultants didn't dominate the industry.

Now, 35 years later, the wine that was a tannic wall has evolved into something texturally, well, gripping. It was a glossy beauty in the mouth until the finish settled and laid down a strong grip. But with age, that grip has become almost seamless, serving as an anchor for the wine's showing in the mouth. 

It was very cool stuff. Now we're back to our bargain hunting, but this was a worthwhile dalliance with the best.

Tom Mansell: Cambridge Brewing Company Arquebus "Summer Barleywine"

Nestled among the biotech firms in Kendall Square in Cambridge, MA is a huge beer geek den known as Cambridge Brewing Co.  I went on a recommendation from our own Bryan Calandrelli, who unsurprisingly nailed this reco.  They serve about a half dozen house beers, with a long list of seasonals as well.

Many of the seasonals were outstanding including a floral heather ale and a spicy rye IPA. 

The one that impressed me most, though was the one I saved for dessert: their Arquebus "Summer Barleywine."

This is the most vinous beer I have ever had. It's right up there in complexity, and finish with Russian River's line of strong sour beers. Aged in French oak barrels for a year and served still, it explodes with white grape, pineapple upside down cake, and stone fruit -- we're talking fruity esters out the wazoo.

A hint of toasty oak and balanced acidity on the palate give way to a long, cinnamon spice finish makes this unique beer a genuine pleasure in every last drop.

At 14% it's a bit alcoholic, but I ended up savoring it as I would a port or sherry.

If you're in Boston, you've gotta find this place and try this beer. Flights are just $2/sample (i.e., a steal).

David Flaherty: Rully, La Chaume, Jacques Dury, 2006, Côte Chalonnaise

Ah, to drink white Burgundy everyday.  Ah, to finish each meal with a fine Cognac. Ah, to be rich and wealthy.

 

Well, considering I'm neither rich nor wealthy (except in heart and soul...on good days, at least), I will take my forays into the fine wines of the world where I can. The beautiful thing is, if you look just in the shadows of some of the great regions, you can find greatness.  

 

I humbly present: Rully. A village in the Côte Chalonnaise located in Burgundy (just south of the great vineyards of the Côte de Beaune), Rully boasts Premier Cru status for 1/6 of its vineyards. Its terroir, its history and its style of white wines are very close in profile to the creme de la creme further north.

 

The Rully La Chaume is spectacular and will set you back under $20. But it is a ticket to behind the mystique and altar of white Burgundy. If you've ever wondered what the fuss was about but were priced out, this is your chance. It's sort of like taking the trip to the casinos of Monte Carlo at the price of a trip to Foxwoods.

 

On the nose, a mesmerizing blend of aromas tantalize you closer while only hinting at the full spectrum to come on the palate. Notes of nuttiness, lemons and buttery apples greet your mouth seductively as a refreshing backbone of acid wipes your mouth clear.

But oh that finish. It may not have the days-long finish of a Meursault or a Puligny-Montrachet, but the Rully doesn't let up quickly. 

I sunk into the couch like Ewan McGregor in Trainspotting. It's that good.   

 

What We Drank (August 17, 2010)

Evan Dawson: Cab Franc showdown (Domaine des Ouches 2005 Bourguiel and Red Newt Cellars 2005 Cabernet Franc)

It's always enlightening to compare, and this was a nice little linear comparison: Cabernet Franc from its sweet spot in France and Cabernet Franc from one of the strongest Finger Lakes producers in a very good vintage. 

Unfortunately, the Bourguiel suffered from some storage issues (we assume) and was prematurely tired. But the Red Newt showed beautifully, with our guests showing genuine surprise when it was finally revealed as a Finger Lakes red. I wouldn't say it's highly indicative of place, but not many Cab Francs from the Finger Lakes are showing a regional character. That will come with more time. This is simply a modern style red with impressive texture and length. It was one of the wines of the night at our dinner party.

We'll revisit the Loire Valley on another occasion soon. That's never a bad idea.

Bryan Calandrelli: Movia Sauvignon 2007

When I saw this bottle behind the bar at Just Vino in Buffalo I immediately knew my long drive into the city was warranted. I didn¹t see it on their list of over 80 wines by the glass but luckily I¹d recognize that label from a distance.

Intense golden color with aromas of pine resin, apricot, citrus, lavender and honey. It¹s crisp on the palate yet still full, smooth and seamless. The oxidative quality that comes with this wine is totally in balance and seems to work in its favor.

It¹s amazing how much I think I dislike oaked whites, oxidative wines or whites with prolonged skin contact until I taste wines like this. When it¹s done well they can be transformative to the wine drinker.

David Flaherty: "The Carabinieri" cocktail (Palo Cortado Sherry, Reposado Tequila, Cynar, Galiano, Bitters)

Sherry is one of the greatest beverages on the planet. And when it comes together with great spirits, it can be mind-bogglingly good.

This weekend, my wife and I popped into Clover Club in Cobble Hill, Brooklyn. As usual, I insisted we sit at the bar so I could watch the mixologists at work and get a look at their "gear" - they've got an array of bitters, juices and liqueurs all lined up in tiny glass bottles like battle-ready ninjas. (In all honesty, I'm very annoying to sit with in times like these because every time a cocktail is being made, my attention wanes and I become like a kid at the zoo transfixed by the Monkey House).

For the Carabinieri, I was amazed by the integration of such diverse ingredients. I mean, Sherry and Tequila? Cynar (a bitter, artichoke-based liqueur)? Wow, what a line-up and the fact that they found harmony was beautiful. The aroma was hypnotic: a blend of nuttiness and sea air with a rich, plummy center that hit me square in the kisser. On the palate, it was a virtual receiving line as each ingredient had its fair shake. Starting with the rich, oxidized notes of the Palo Cortado, it melded into the citrusy Agave notes of the Reposado and finished with a bitter zip from the Cynar that left my mouth stunned at what had transpired.

As Americans, we often shy away from bitter drinks, but the Italians have it right. Bitterness is a beautiful thing when embraced. There is a whole world of sensations and spirits awaiting those who venture into its domain.

What We Drank (August 10, 2010)

 This is what the NYCR editors and contributors are drinking...

Evan Dawson:  Domaine des Baumard 2007 Savennieres Trie Speciale

Screwcap! This wine had the dual interest of being a nicely regarded Savennieres along with being closed by a screwcap. I'm told this estate made the difficult decision to change to screwcap several years ago. I say it was difficult because in the Loire Valley -- in many places not named Australia or New Zealand -- screwcaps are viewed with some suspicion. 

This wine is too young to detect any problems or witness great success regarding the screwcap. I confess that I find the screwcap hopelessly unromantic, and at some point I probably need to get over that and engage in some objective comparison. 

It's a very good value, regardless of closure. It needed time to soften up a harsh leading edge, but after that the wine pushed forward with a variety of interesting aromas and flavors; lavender and creamed peach, for example, even though it was not aged in oak.

David Flaherty: Two Brothers Hop Juice Double IPA

The IBU scale. For hop freaks, "International Bittering Units" are the equivalent to the Scoville Scale for pepper hounds. And the craft beer scene has taken this scale and turned it into child's play, ascending the ladder like one does a jungle gym, trepidatiously at first, but with greater abandon as one goes higher into the clouds.

I have met my match. Clocking in at a whopping 100.1 IBUs, the Two Brothers Hop Juice is a legend. In fact, it is said the beer actually clocks in at 124 IBUs but the human palate can only detect bitterness up to 100 IBUs. (The last .1 is mere mockery and fun from the brewers themselves to further slap your mouth into obedience).

But the key with any "big" beverage, be it a 17% Californian Zin or an aged Trockenbeerenauslese riesling is balance. Balance, balance, balance.  The opposite of bitterness is sweetness, and along with this mouth-puckering sensation of piney, citrusy hops comes a rich, malty backbone upon which the bitter cloak can hang.  

It is a monster but it is delicious. A Frankenstein in a dashing tuxedo. Good thing I polished up my spats before cracking this bottle. We danced through the air on a cloud of teetering extremes. Get you some. If you dare to climb the ladder to the top.

Lenn Thompson: Graham Beck NV Brut Rose

"This is reaaaally good."

"You should make this your What We Drank."

Sometimes I listen to my wife, so here you have it -- probably the best value sparkler to hit our house since the last Graham Beck we had. 

Retailing for around $15, this 70% pinot, 30% chardonnay sparkler delivers bright but delicate berry -- strawberry and cherry -- flavors with nice toast/yeast character and a gently creamy mid-palate.

The finish isn't long -- in fact it's the only disappointing aspect of this sparkler -- but if you like rose Champagne but can't afford to drink it often, you should try this one.

It brings a lot of classic style to the table for $15. I think we'll try to track more of this down to have on hand as a house sparkler.

To quote David above...get you some.

Julia Burke: Brewery Ommegang Zuur

Sour beers are all the rage in the beer world right now and I couldn't be happier. From our own little New York slice of Belgium comes this Flemish-style sour brown ale brewed with cherries, and it made my weekend to come into work and find it on tap.

Ommegang's Zuur is murky-brown in the glass with little to no head or lacing poured from the tap into a 10 oz. goblet. The nose is delicate cherries and hints of malt and yeast esters, nothing over-the-top or out-of-whack, and if this beer is over 8% ABV it certainly doesn't show it (technical information for Zuur was not available).

On the palate, mouthwatering sourness creates a beautiful sipping experience without attacking the taste buds.

It's a sessionable sour, a rarity in the Belgian world, and a solid presentation from Ommegang.

What We Drank (August 3, 2010)

Short list of beverages/contributions this week -- and not a single wine in the lot. But, this is what our editors and contributors are drinking:

Tom Mansell: Bandwagon Brew Pub Pirate Eye-PA

Bandwagon Brew Pub in Ithaca has only been open for a little over 8 months, but in that time they've been making some quality beers. I'd call them a microbrewery, but at 15 gallons maximum per batch, I'd say they're more on the order of nano-brew.

Anyway, until now, most the beers I've had from there have been very good. This one, however, was the first one I've had from there that was really excellent.

It pours with a thick head, showing moderate, citrusy hops up front with enough sweet malt character to aptly parry the hoppiness. The modest 6% alcohol likely contributes to its full mid-palate. It's refreshing and flavorful and it paired perfectly with my fish and chips.

This beer succeeds where many IPAs fail: balance. When I drink beer, I don't want diluted sticky hop resin. I want something aromatic, but offering some maltiness and complexity on the palate. I happened to kick the keg on this one (on my second or third one...) so I sure hope they are in the process of making more!

Bottom line: If you love beer and you're in Ithaca, you've got to check out Bandwagon, especially when they're pouring this one.

Julia Burke: Don Julio Tequila Blanco

After an arduous day of moving into my new city apartment, it was time to celebrate. Old friends miraculously in town at the same time, an upcoming wedding, and a beautiful summer night all warranted a special occasion, and my crew ended up at the neighborhood pub to continue the evening in style. 

Shots were suggested, but being the classy broad that I am I opted for a neat Don Julio to sip and enjoy.

My friends were incredulous at my sippage -- until they tasted. "Oh. Wow. That's good," was the unanimous reaction. Incredibly smooth with nothing but agave and a hint of citrus on the nose, with crisp length and no burn, this Blanco was a pleasure to drink and a great value.

It was the perfect way to celebrate and still be functional the next day.

Bryan Calandrelli: Brooklyn Brewing Dark Matter

In my quest to fill my growler club card at Consumer’s Beverage I took home this limited production Brooklyn Dark Matter. It’s a brown ale aged for four months in bourbon and rye whiskey barrels.

This robust brew is creamy on the palate with chocolate, caramel and vanilla notes. It has an extremely roasted flavor reminiscent of coffee and nuts.

All together these flavors reminded me of a white Russian cocktail.

It’s definitely a hearty beer and one of the most unique brown ales I’ve tasted.

What We Drank (July, 28 2010)

This is what our editors and contributors have been drinking. Only one local this time, but that's part of the fun of WWD -- the diversity:

Lenn Thompson: The Alchemist Pub and Brewery "Holy Cow" IPA

I spent this past weekend in upstate New York and in Shelburne, Vermont for the 2010 Vermont Cheesemakers' Festival -- mostly as cheese editor Aaron Estes's photographer.

We tasted some stunningly delicious cheeses that served as a reminder of how far New York still has to go in terms of overall cheese quality. We also sipped some good-not-great beers from Lawson's Finest Liquids, including a Double IPA that was plenty hoppy but a bit one-note.

With a little extra time before heading back to our wives and families, Aaron and I drove over to Waterbury to visit The Alchemist, a pub and brewery that he'd read about previously but had never visited on previous jaunts to Vermont.

Let's just say that it was well worth the trip -- which was a bit out of our way. From a bright, citrusy saison (called "Farmer's Daughter") to a ridiculously good "Focal Banger" IPA on cask, the beers weren't good...they were great.

The highlight -- and I think I can speak for Aaron here too -- was the "Holy Cow" IPA, which wraps up everything an IPA lover wants in the style -- balanced malt, hoppy aromas and flavors...and great bitterness without going over the top -- all within 5.2% ABV, making it extremely sessionable. In fact, if we weren't driving back to my in-laws' right after, I could have had a handful of these.

It didn't hurt that a Pittsburgh Steelers pendant hung from the wall and some other Steelers-related paraphernalia was visible in the bar. Turns out the brewer is from Pittsburgh.

Bryan Calandrelli: La Clos Coutale 2008

For some reason I have this romantic idea of what a Cahors should taste like. It's not based on any experience or research. It's based entirely on my mind taking the fruit forward crowd pleasing South American style and breeding it with the dirty, rustic, earthy style that I associate with French wines.

Guessing that this may be completely unrealistic, I picked up a bottle of La Clos Coutale 2008 the other day. I recognized the name from the WS Top 100 from 2009 and appreciated that it is a Kermit Lynch Selection.

Aromatically this wine showed blueberry, blackberry and vanilla. On the palate it was surprisingly unsophisticated with soft acidity and easy tannins. Every once in a while I got some interesting spice notes but
overall pretty simple.

I'm not sure if I¹d choose this wine over the right malbec from Argentina. It's interesting enough to be a good stepping-stone into French wine for big fruit lovers but ultimately not the romantically rustic wine I was expecting.

Julia Burke: Saratoga IPA

Saratoga caught my eye yesterday during a beer shop browse; having never tried anything from the brewery I picked up a six-pack.

This IPA pours golden-orange-amber in the glass with a one-and-a-half finger head and faint lacing. One whiff and I was in a brewery: the nose smells unmistakably like wort, the point in brewing at which the malt is brought to a boil and fills the room with the scent of wet, warm baking bread.

I actually love the smell, I’ve just never experienced it in a finished commercial product before.

Had the palate been weak or off-putting I would be more concerned about that rather unfinished aroma, but the post-lips experience is solid: an appealing balance of smooth Fuggles hops and a Cascade hop finish, with a touch of malty sweetness and restrained carbonation.

It’s perfectly enjoyable -- it just tastes like homebrew, and though I really don’t have a problem with that, I’m not sure the majority of IPA drinkers would be into it. I’m curious to taste the beer again at a later date -- the characteristic could be unique to this particular batch.

Evan Dawson: Qupe 2006 Bien Nacido Syrah

We've heard an awful lot of debate about why American syrah isn't a big seller lately. Price is always a factor, but Qupe packed some promise into a relatively inexpensive package: Nice pedigree with consumers who prefer more elegant styles, and not a big scorer on the west coast critics' radar. Ship it!

I was not disappointed. Try to imagine that last West Coast red with 14.5% ABV you drank that didn't show a trace of oak.

Then factor in an interesting mix of mint and meat. Only the macerated plum component gave away its birthplace, which is perhaps not the asset its label implies. 

Overall, bien hecho, Qupe.

What We Drank (July 20, 2010)

We only have three contirbutions this week, but -- as always -- some interesting libations have filled the glasses of the New York Cork Report editors and contributors.

Evan Dawson: Multi-year semi-dry riesling flight at Red Newt Bistro

Red Newt Bistro offers a nice range of wine flights, with three wines per flight and generous pours of each.

On a recent visit I chose a flight that included the Sheldrake Point 2006 Riesling, the Red Newt 2007 Semi-Dry Riesling, and the 2008 Red Newt Circle Riesling.

The Sheldrake was simply explosive. Rich, long, and hugely aromatic, my one concern was its relatively advanced aging for a wine this young. The petrol notes are showing up already, and perhaps our science editor can address whether this is expected or even a potential result of storage (which I doubt).

Either way, it's a big, luscious riesling.

Wine is all about context, and in this lineup, the Circle Riesling came off as snappy and austere. At 3.2 RS!

 

Dave and Deb Whiting give a lot of thought to constructing an all-local wine list, and it shows. I'm looking forward to a flight of 2004 dry riesling on the next visit.

Ralph DiGennaro: Barone Fini 2009 Pinot Grigio Alto Adige

This is a zesty, unusually concentrated pinot grigio from the much heralded high altitude
Trentinto Alto Adige region of northern Italy by Barone Fini, a relative newcomer among
Italian producers of this often maligned varietal.

Wild flowers, herbs and green apple aromas rise up from the glass, not unlike a fine Viognier.

On the palate are mineral and allspice notes with an undercurrent of raw cashews. Medium to full-bodied, it finishes long and satisfying, with hints of ripe pear and pronounced lemon curd flavors.

Simple yet delicious, the grapes are all handpicked, according to owner Giovanni Bonmartini-
Fini, whose major objective is to produce wines meant to be enjoyed with food.

I paired it with peppered sashimi tuna barely seared on the outside--the acidity of the wine was
a perfect counterpoint to the heat of the black pepper and saltiness of a soy ginger sauce
that I used as a dipping sauce.

Bonmartini-Fini’s wines (he also produces a Pinot Grigio Valdadige) have changed my attitude about pinot grigio. 6,000 cases made.

 Mumm Cordon Rouge 1966

Over the weekend our neighbors at the Seneca Lodge in Watkins Glenn brought out a few bottles of Mumm Cordon Rouge 1966 to celebrate a day of wine tasting.

Since I don¹t have much experience with aged champagnes I was more impressed with the year then the producer or rarity of these wines. As quickly as the excitement built up to taste them, it went away with a fizzle as the corks showed major signs of failure.

I was the first to try and was happy that there was still some bubbles but the wine had gone slightly sour and was generously oxidized. It was a big letdown for the owners but given the condition of the cork, I was impressed that it was still drinkable.

I think it could have passed a sour beer brewed with brett and if I paid for the wine myself I would have drank the whole bottle.

What We Drank (July 13, 2010)

It's been a few weeks since our editors and contributors submitted anything for WWD, but we're back this week with a vengeance. This is what we've been drinking:

Tom Mansell: Movia 2006 "Lunar" Ribolla Gialla

"Wine is sunlight held together by water," said Galileo, famously.

This wine, however, is marketed as being made by the moon. 

Movia Lunar is made with minimal human intervention (aside from the manual harvesting and destemming). Ribolla Gialla grapes from vineyards straddling the Italian-Slovenian border are put into specially-designed Slovenian oak casks and allowed to undergo whole-berry fermentation. After several months of fermentation with native yeasts, the wine is bottled at the full moon without filtration and without sulfite addition.

The long fermentation with skin contact gives this wine a slight orange tint, while the lack of filtration leaves it quite cloudy. The leftover lees that lingers in the bottle imparts a distinct "fermentation bouquet" (the smell of still-fermenting wine, which to me comprises a handful of fruity esters including banana), and an overall yeastiness. A look at the slight residual spritz confirms that "still-fermenting" is not too far off.

Under all this, though, a nice orange peel aroma shines through, with potpourri spice. Tea-like aromas and slight astringency show up on the palate, which is not surprising due to the prolonged skin contact. There's a slight oxidative note on the finish, also not surprising given the lack of sulfur addition and months in oak. Apparently, the winemaker recommends decanting this wine, which we did not do. Perhaps this would alleviate the spritz and yeast-related issues.

Overall, this is a nice wine that is certainly interesting, but not the life-changing experience that some would make it out to be. There are other great orange wines out there, including the ones made by Long Island winemaker Chris Tracy at Channing Daughters.  If you're familiar with wines made with this Friulian-Slovenian fermentation technique, then this wine may not be such a unique experience. I suppose the uniqueness comes from the completely non-interventionist approach and use of lunar cycles to optimize bottling efficiency, if you're jazzed about that sort of thing.

There is a lot of debate and discussion about natural and biodynamic winemaking in the wine writing world lately. Over the next few weeks, I'll be working on a series of posts that will address the scientific merits of some of these practices, trying to separate the legitimacy from the... er... lunacy.

Evan Dawson: Domaines Ott 2008 Cotes de Provence Rose Chateau de Selle

The remedy for the crush of summer heat always seems to be a refreshing rose, and the more I drink of Provencal rose, the more I feel it's the unchallenged leader in the field. 

The salmon-colored roses from southern France seem to bring a bit more complexity -- not that we're looking for too much when it comes to rose. But this wine is a fine example of what Provence does so well: Gorgeously floral rippled with a strange little mix of fruit. Melon! Raspberry! Cool stuff.

The shallow side of my wine-loving self loves the packaging: a bottle shape unique to the producer, and a wickedly slick cork.

Packaging matters, if you're interested in selling what you make.

Julia Burke: Itsas Mendi 2005 Txakolina

I was in a spirit of celebration over a new job as I browsed the shelves of a local wine shop this weekend.

When I noticed a bottle of Txakolina, a hard-to-find white wine from the Basque region of northern Spain, I snatched it up and immediately began planning an arrangement of goat cheese and Spanish olives for a festive summer treat. 

A rich golden hue with a tinge of green, this lovely and complex white shows notes of honeydew, toasty straw and lime, with a beautiful backbone of oceany minerality.

Acidic yet soothing on the palate, it's resiny and exotic with a continued vein of pebbly austerity. At $27 it's a white for a rather special occasion, but it's one of the most interesting and delicious Spanish white I've encountered. Though the wine was perfect with my planned meal of olives and cheese, I imagine it would be equally good with Portuguese sardines -- and best enjoyed by a lake or sea.

Lenn Thompson: Ithaca Beer Company Ground Break American-Style Saison

Last week, Nena and I spent a few days in Ithaca to celebrate our five-year anniversary -- because the Finger Lakes region is one of our favorite vacation spots and we'd never spent any real time in Ithaca.

We tasted plenty of wine on both sides of Cayuga Lake, but instead of singling out one of those bottles, I'd like to talk a bit about Ithaca Beer Company, located just south of town and just south of Buttermilk Falls.

I mention the falls because we hiked up and around them in the extreme, relentless heat and when we were done, I wanted refreshment. Sweat-soaked and overheated, we drove down the road to the brewer and found just that.

Tasting through the lineup, from the summery Partly Sunny wit to the deliciously hoppy Flower Power, we cooled off quickly (even if their AC was out). My favorite that day was the "American-Style Saison" called Ground Break. Tasting more like a Belgian Pale Ale to me, but regardless, it's what I went back to our B&B with. Lightly spicy with some grain-rye notes and a little citrus and nice hoppy character on the finish, it really hit the spot after battling the sun and heat.

The heat waves continues...and I hope I can find this one locally here on Long Island.

What We Drank (June 14, 2010)

A light turnout this week, but here are some of the wines and beers that our editors drank last week...

Bryan Calandrelli: Tabor Adama 2007 Clay Soil Rosé (Israel)

Even with all the great wine stores in western New York within striking distance I still stop into smaller package liquor stores every now and then to see if the wine shelves hold any surprises.

This time I found an interesting rosé made from 100% cabernet franc grapes.The package caught my attention right away with a 500ml bottle, but the origin of Galilee was the clincher. I’ve had a few wines from Israel in the past and I’ve been pleasantly surprised by their quality.

This is definitely dark in color for a rosé with aromas of raspberry, cherry with only a faint herbal note. The mouthfeel is full and ripe with a tiny hint of sweetness. I love the balance of this rosé and if there’s a rosé that will appeal to red drinkers this is it.

I’ll probably buy at least one case of this wine before the end of the week. Did I mention it was only $3 marked down from $10? I think the labels are screwed up so it ended in the odds and ends bin. Now it’s going to be my go to BBQ rosé this summer.

Tom Mansell: Hickory Hollow Wine Cellars Zineca 2007

You don't see too many Zinfandels produced in New York.  That's because zinfandel is often recommended for growing regions that have 3000-3500 growing degree days, while the Finger Lakes, for example, gets around 2000-2500. So, according to conventional wisdom, the Finger Lakes region is not a good area for a warm-climate grape like zinfandel.

Imagine my surprise, then, to find a zinfandel made at a winery on Seneca Lake. Now imagine my lack of surprise to find that it was made with fruit from California.

This 17% ABV catastrophe (Did I hear the tasting room employee right? 17%?!) is a raisiny, soupy, alcoholic mess of jammy dried fruit that also smells like licorice with a little fish.

By my rough estimation, to get to 17% ABV, the fruit was anywhere from 29-31 Brix at "harvest". I imagine that the grapes dried out a little bit on the long journey across the country. 

Alas, according totasting room staff, it's one of their best-selling wines.

Julia Burke: Founders Breakfast Stout

I arrived in Columbus, Ohio after a five-hour drive to muggy, sticky Midwestern summer weather. I made a beeline for North Market in German Village, grabbed the beer I was craving, and cracked one open as soon as I got home. A nice summer lager? A crisp German pilsner? Nope -- it's a double-chocolate-coffee-

oatmeal-stout.

Yeah, I drink dark beers in the summertime. Give me an oatmeal stout in the middle of the desert and I'm a happy camper. And when I'm in the beer paradise that is the Midwest, I stock up on the beer that made me a woman: Founders Breakfast Stout.

Unavailable in New York (ahem, Founders representatives), this burly lumberjack of a beer pours a thick and grainy dark brown into a goblet with a pinkie-finger burnt-toast head and little to no lacing (unsurprising at this alcohol level -- 8.3%).

Coffee leads on the nose along with baker's chocolate, the booze and requisite sweetness minimal. Where this beer really shines to me, a certified stout maniac, is on the palate: roasty, smoky, hoppy, the sweetness as minimal as possible for the style. Out-of-whack sweetness is a dealbreaker for me but this beer is manly to the last crisp sip. When my bar customers ask me for my top five desert island beers, this Grand Rapids gem always tops the list.

And just for the record: I actually have had this beer for breakfast. It's fabulous with peanut-butter-bacon waffles.

What We Drank (June 7, 2010)

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Here is just a glimpse of what the NYCR editors and contributors drank last week, and what happens when we did:

Evan Dawson: Inglenook 1976 Cabernet Sauvignon Cask 48 and La Rioja Alta 1985 Gran Reserva 904

I feel that it's my responsibility to keep up the quality of the What We Drank section, so I plundered two of my best bottles. 

Okay, that's not exactly true -- we all enjoy a range of wine and beer. But this past week brought a very special dinner and two fascinating mature bottles. The Inglenook could have been mistaken for mature Bordeaux in a blind setting, so classic were the aromas of truffle and tobacco. After the moist cork disintegrated we had expected something along the lines of vinegar, but it was a beauty. 

And imagine -- 1976 was a drought year with low yields and extremely concentrated berries in Napa. And yet the alcohol was only 13.5%!

The Rioja was my wife's choice for wine of the night. It was an aromatic blitzkrieg of hallmark Tempranillio earthiness (not brettiness) woven into rich raisins. Very cool stuff.

Both of these wines could have been shot. The dinner and conversation were so good that we would have had a wonderful time without the wine, but their vitality etched some unforgettable moments.

Julia Burke: Eveningside Vineyards 2009 Sauvignon Blanc

I tasted this wine for the first time in tank over the winter. Four months later and countless sauvignon blancs later (I'm on a bit of an sauvignon blanc kick these days) I was anxious to try it again and compare it to the southern hemisphere examples I've been drinking.

It's extremely clean with very little sulfur perception on the nose, especially considering its youth. Gorgeous floral notes (think clover and dandelion, not potpourri) along with lime, fresh-cut grass, and gooseberry complete the sauvignon blanc profile with a sense of cleanliness, friendliness, and the fresh smell of early summer. 

Acidity from the grape rather than from tartaric acid is an asset I don't take lightly these days, and this wine boasts an outstanding balance of natural acid and a faint perception of residual sugar (about 2%). I like the sweetness; the fullness of the palate suits this style of SB without making it overtly fruity. A finish of lime zest completes this lovely, easygoing wine. 

Winemakers have told me that sauvignon blanc is a favorite grape to experiment with because there are many stylistic options and they can see the results fairly quickly. There's room for many styles in the world, to be sure, but it's clear that the Niagara Escarpment offers potential for a more subtle version of this tangy grape.

Bryan Calandrelli: Channing Daughters Winery 2006 Envelope

It’s rare that a visit with my friends on Long Island doesn’t lead to a visit to the North Fork for some winery action. Well, it turns out I didn’t make it out there this weekend but luckily a bottle in my friends wine stash was exciting enough to make up for the lack of wine country moments.
 
Channing Daughters is one fascinating winery I’ve yet to visit. After having several of their wines and hearing so much about their philosophy I never turn down an opportunity to try their stuff. Their 2006 Envelope is in a league of its own in terms of wine style. This blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Gewurtztraminer was de-stemmed and fermented on the skins before 13 months in Slovenian and French oak.
 
Right off the bat, the intense orange color of this wine pointed to how unique it really is. Aromas of mandarin orange, apricot, hazelnut, honey and wild flowers are just some of the notes I picked up in the short time the wine remained in my glass. Full and fleshy on the palate there’s some serious weight here.
 
This wine sparked some interesting conversation among my friends and that’s not always easy to do with just one bottle. It may be just one of a few bottles that can make me forget I didn’t get out to wine country when I had a chance.

Lenn Thompson: Roanoke Vineyards 2009 DeRosa Rose

As any parent will tell you, having kids changes your life permanently. And while I have yet to discover anything better than fatherhood, it is still nice when Nena and I can capture a bit of our pre-parenthood lives.

Yesterday, after bottling some Belgian pale ale with friends in Riverhead, we met up with our wives and families at Roanoke Vineyards for lunch (after a quick stop at the Village Cheese Shop in Mattituck). Sitting out on the lawn, nibbling on cheese and sipping their newly released rose while Jackson played with some other children in and around the cabernet franc vines, we were able to close our eyes for just a moment and relax with great friends.

Of course then Jackson came running over with wielding a vine cutting like a lightsaber, wanting one or all of us to chase him through the vineyard. We did, of course, sustained by the strawberry, passion fruit and citrus character of the rose, with great acidity, subtle richness and a bit less residual sugar than past releases. It really hit the spot and helped make for an incredible Sunday afternoon.

It was hot, but windy,

Tom Mansell: Sangaria Chu Hi Mitsu Kikuchi

According to Google Translate...

"Reproduce the taste of coffee in Kansai, Osaka-born extremely well received, "Chu ー speak Yuju Mitsu" is a new appearance to drinking! From being mixed with the exquisite balance of fruit and milk of five minutes, taste indescribably mellow flavor. Drinking and drunk driving while intoxicated - under 20 is prohibited by law. * Drinking during pregnancy or breastfeeding, it may adversely affect fetal development in infants. - Drinking a moderate amount Kokorogakemashou [loosely translated: be aware of moderation].

Juice (orange, apple, pineapple, peaches, bananas), alcohol brewery [brewer's alcohol], dairy products, coconut oil, eggs, sugar, stabilizer (soy polysaccharide), spices, acidic ingredients, vitamin B2"

My partner-in-science Richard Pliny brought some of this back from his recent trip to Guam. It's kind of like a piña colada, with an additional huge banana and coconut aroma that reminded me of nigori sake.

The mouthfeel is creamy to the point that the 4% alcohol is imperceptible. Brewer's alcohol is the same stuff that they use to fortify honjozo- and ginjo-style sake, so this is basically a canned cocktail.

Not sure where they came up with the "coffee" descriptor, as there is none to be found here. Could be a translation hiccup. Also, I agree that it's mellow, but certainly not indescribably so. Sangaria makes other products that can be found in the lower 48, most notably the marble-sealed Ramune sodas that you can get at Japanese restaurants.

So... if you're in Guam or Japan... and can read hiragana... then try to find this, I guess?

Ralph DiGennaro: Sly Dog Cellars 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon

For those who love discovering affordable everyday drinking California cabs that aren’t intense fruit bombs, taste more like overripe merlot or something akin to cheap Chianti, I would recommend the artisanal Sly Dog Cellars 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon (about $14.99).

Made with fruit from the Red Hills region of Lake County in Napa, an area often lauded for its loam-rich, rocky soil that produces small yet concentrated berries, this is a medium-bodied claret with pronounced raspberry and ripe plum flavors, that evolve into hints of coffee bean and vanilla.

The finish is medium in length but tails out with cedary, dark chocolate nuances. I uncorked this feisty claret about four hours before actually drinking it. Curious complexity and finesse for a wine this inexpensive.

What We Drank (May 24, 2009)

By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief

I'm taking this week off from What We Drank (mostly because everything I tasted over the weekend will be reviewed elsewhere on the site).

Luckily, some other team members are picking up the slack this week.

Julia Burke: Lagunitas Brewing Company Wilco Tango Foxtrot

Petaluma hophead brewing superstar Lagunitas must've gotten really friendly with the band Wilco lately. The acronym "WTF" on this "Jobless Recovery Ale" seemed appropriate for my life: I returned from South Africa completely broke and am attempting to recover by working nonstop. Drinking on the job being a key aspect of the wine industry, I enjoyed this 20 oz. bomber with my coworkers while we dealt with drunk bus after drunk bus in the winery tasting room.

I'm a sucker for malt bombs, and this self-described "Imperial Brown Ale" packs a sweet, roasty, chocolatey, butterscotchy punch. Only 7.8% ABV (small potatoes for this brewery), the obvious sweetness of this beer comes from a malt profile that would make a German brewer blush. I kind of want to pair it with Reese's peanut butter cups or put it in a brownie recipe. A three-finger head and snappy carbonation helped to balance that burnt-sugar-syrup mouthfeel. 

The swift punch kick of hops that's present in the finish of any Lagunitas brew is there, to be sure, and provides some much-needed acidity. A great pairing beer, though a tad sweet, and thoroughly new and different for Lagunitas.

Bryan Calandrelli: Movia 2006 Ribolla

I need only one hand to count the number of jaw-dropping whites I've had in my life, but a recent tasting of Movia's Ribolla 2006 has convinced me that I may need to use both hands soon.

If I was literally blindfolded I might think this was a red wine from its weight, structure and viscosity.

The toasty aromas of almond and toffee are in perfect balance with the tropical citrus and pineapple notes. Its full body and dedicated persistence on the palate is something I don't experience much in a white.

Dr. Vino posted a question on his blog asking "What white wine would you give to a red wine drinker?" and this is my pick. I would also nominate it for sexiest white wine if there were an MTV style wine award show. It will also make you want to shout "Riiiiiibolllllaaaaaa."

Evan Dawson: Pellegrini Vineyards 2000 Merlot

I realize that during May, the staff of the NYCR has been posting largely about riesling and rose. But really, truly, you must trust me when I say that this post is in the spirit of that theme.

Okay, it's a stretch, but consider: We've been posting about quite a bit of older Finger Lakes riesling. Why not flip it, and post about an older Long Island merlot? 

I poured this blind for my wife. Young or old, I asked? Young. Domestic or foreign? Foreign. And you know what? I'd have guessed the same. It was beautiful and fresh, rounding into a superb form. I've seen a few Pellegrini bottlings show a strong dose of oak in the past, but this was a wine that integrated its wood seamlessly. 

I'm told 2000 was not an ideal merlot vintage on Long Island, which makes this bottle even more thrilling.

What We Drank (May 17, 2010)

Something unique happened with this week's WWD...the whole team got in on the "riesling and rose" theme this month. It's almost as though I asked them to do so. Okay -- I did.

Tom Mansell: Sheldrake Point Vineyards 2007 Dry Rosé

For a month of rieslings and rosés, I decided to chill down a Finger Lakes pink with a little bit of age on it.

If I remember correctly, this is a rosé of mostly cabernet franc. The color on this is a nice salmon-heading-towards-copper.

Wild strawberry comes to mind after some thought but the fruit is very well-integrated with some citrus peel, perhaps shaped a bit by age.

The nose is promising, but the palate comes up a bit short. Short on acidity and finish, to be exact.  A touch more acid would make this rosé much more refreshing, but I'm not really one to talk about having a little flabbiness here and there. 

Despite its 13% ABV, it lacks in the mid-palate and the finish is somewhat fleeting.  An interesting Cinnamon Toast Crunch note comes up on the finish (diacetyl?).

I had laid this one down in hopes of doing a rosé vertical to check out how some Finger Lakes rosés age. I'm still interested in doing that, though I don't expect I'll be able to find another one of these easily unless there are a few in Bob Madill's basement.

What do you guys think about aging rosé? 

Evan Dawson: Muller-Catoir 2007 Riesling Kabinett Pfalz Mussbach

In New York state, there is a riesling designation known as "semi-sweet" that drives me semi-insane. To me, it comes off as a condescending wink to the customer:

"Can't handle dry wine? Don't worry, child, here is something sweet."

This Pfalzian Kabinett -- the sweetest Kabinett I've ever had, based on RS -- would undoubtedly be herded into that semi-sweet category. And yet it is entirely serious, thoughtful, and balanced. There must be 3% RS or more here (our host guessed 4%), and its oily viscosity is fascinating. 

We enjoyed this wine with food before dinner, and after dinner it became a contemplative stand-alone. A sweet -- nothing "semi" about it - way to begin and end the evening.

Bryan Calandrelli: Calandrelli Selections Riesling 2008

What better wine to write about during Riesling month than ones own homemade Calandrelli Selections 2008 Riesling?

Okay, I'm sure there are several more interesting wines out there but I thought I'd write about something no one else has tasted yet.

To be honest, I neglected my 2008 whites for too long. This wine should have been bottled a year ago instead of 3 weeks ago. With that procrastination and absence of enough sulphites there are some oxidative notes on the nose and a premature golden appearance.

That being said it's totally drinkable with aromas of pear, apricot, almond and a touch of petrol. With only .625% added sugar, it's still brisk with no perceivable sweetness. It's lean and mean on the palate as I opted to keep it refreshing with a good dose of acidity.

This wine had much potential as I had a long cool ferment with Wadenswil 27 yeast of grapes from Freedom Run Winery. Ultimately though I should have been on top of this wine earlier as I've gotten used to the long elevage of reds.

With 2 cases produced though I'm just happy to have some wine I can
open this summer without worrying about my wine budget.

Lenn Thompson: Fox Run Vineyards 2001 Dry Riesling

There wasn't any real drinking for me this past weekend -- exhausting work hours (including an all-nighter) made sure of that.

But a week ago today, hot off the heels of TasteCamp, I opened this bottle of riesling.

Yes. Riesling. Sure, my teeth and gums were still stinging a bit from all of the acidity from the weekend-long tastefest, but several opportunities to taste older wines throughout inspired me to open this one up.

True to what Peter Bell, Fox Run's winemaker, said as he poured several library wines for us, this dry riesling didn't hold up as well as the reserve and semi-dry wines.

It showed nice mature aromas and flavors -- petrol, orange marmalade, marzipan and a little herbal edge -- but there wasn't enough acidity here to frame it.

And yet, I still enjoyed drinking it -- quite a bit. It's a pleasure to explore older wines, even if they aren't peaking.

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What We Drank (April 27, 2010)

This is what our editors are drinking right now:

Lenn Thompson: Windham Winery 2004 Cabernet Franc (Virginia) 

There is a lot of cabernet franc grown and made in Virginia, so you'd think I'd come back from my trip with a long list of killer wines.

Not so, at least not when it comes to the cabernet franc I tasted.

Sadly, it seems as though the prevailing style is to oak and manipulate the "green" out. Too many tasted like lighter cabernet sauvignon, or at least didn't display any of the vegetal/herbacious edge that defines cabernet franc.

This Windham Winery 2004 Cabernet Franc (the winery is now known as Doukenie Winery) had that edge and was easily my favorite Virginia cab franc. It showed just-ripe fruit with "green" that was more herbal and roasted jalapeno than bell pepper, with nice spice, balance and restrained oak.

We (me and the VA wine mafia) tasted probably 25 wines from a wide array of states that night -- Utah, Colorado, Virginia, Hawaii, Maryland, North Carolina, and New York -- and this was far and away my favorite non-Long Island red wine. 

Evan Dawson: Zilliken 1989 Spatlese and Zilliken 1992 Spatlese (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

How cool to see these wines on the list at Solera Wine Bar in Rochester. Solera, which offers a vertical of Hermann J. Wiemer Riesling dating back to 2001 (with even the 1990 available by the bottle!), carries a diverse and ponderous list.

We'll feature their thoughtful New York wine selections on the Cork Report soon, but for now, a note on these older German rieslings.

These are not wines of soaring price or pedigree, and if you look up their scores in the past, you'll find that they're considered solid but certainly not spectacular. But add two decades, and what do you get?

I can't imagine anyone arguing that these rieslings are anything but much, much more complex and enjoyable in this mature stage.

From the burst of still-fresh acidity to the rich, creamy finale, there is so much to love about mature riesling. Are you laying bottles down yet? I truly hope that the world does not experience complete annihilation over the next two decades, because I can't wait to see where the best Finger Lakes rieslings go.

Bryan Calandrelli: Ithaca Brewing Company Ground Break Ale

Since I'm still a sucker for seasonal beer I picked up Ithaca Brewing Co.'s Ground Break Ale last week. The package describes it as an American-Style Saison.

If you know my beer habits than you'd know that I appreciate the farmhouse ale as my session beer of choice.

Golden yellow with some noticeable turbidity, it showed aromas of citrus, spice, yeast and pine. I'm not sure if it's the marketing or my aroma associations but the nose was simply spring-like.

Overall good stuff from Ithaca Brewing although it isn't something I'd drink all year long but I'll probably have to pick up a few more before the season ends.

What We Drank (April 19, 2010)

 Here's what the NYCR editors are drinking now...

Evan Dawson: Villard 2006 Condrieu de Poncins

Northern Rhone whites just do not get enough love.

Of course, there is a very good argument that Northern Rhone whites are almost prohibitively expensive, and thus price themselves out of the love they deserve. The best bottles fetch Napa Cab-style sticker prices. Too bad.

On special occasions, this is a go-to wine region for my wife and me. She loves Northern Rhone whites, and with this outstanding viognier, it's easy to see why.

It smells and tastes like a peach puff pastry, but just when it starts to get so rich that it borders on buttery, it amps up the stony, racy edge. It's an extremely fresh wine with a big body.

Given the price, it will be awhile before we return to Condrieu, but I'll have high expectations for the next occasion.

 

Lenn Thompson: Waters Crest Winery 2003 Cabernet Franc

Tasting so many wines when or shortly after they are released, I don't always have as much time as I'd like to look back.

So over the weekend I pull this wine from my cellar to pour for a couple wine geek friends familiar with Waters Crest.

When I first reviewed this wine in September of 2005, I said:

"Extended maceration gives this wine a deep, rich garnet color and beautiful extraction. Aromas of cocoa, exotic spice and wet topsoil reach right up out of the glass. This red is full bodied and mouth-filling, with lush chocolate flavors. Jim made only 130 cases, with long-term aging in mind."

We're not quite at what I'd call "long term" yet, but I don't think this wine has much longer to go.

Not that it's dead yet either. My bottle was incredibly smooth -- to the point of having nearly no structure left at all.

The chocolate and intense character has faded quite a bit, but the spice remains with a leafy-earthy component that I described as beet greens over the weekend stepping forward. That's akin to the "top soil" note from five years ago.

If I had to guess, I'd say this one isn't going to improve anymore in bottle. In fact, it's probably  just a bit past peak. Not dead, but getting tired.

I left the bottle with my friends and apparently it fell off the table by a couple hours later. If you have any of this, drink up.

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